WIP - Work In Progress General

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Getting closer to finishing Durthu

>>52424119
Can I post even if I'm not Johnny?

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>>52424194
>Can I post even if I'm not Johnny?

Of course! I would like to say we all have a little Johnny in us, but there are some shitposters who would inevitably show up just to take issue with that.

What are you working on?

>>52424280
Tau Broadside.

I got nuffin' to show because I paint unassembled. Really worried about magnetising. Usually I do that before priming but this time I needed to assemble a whole bunch of crap before I know what angles to set the magnets. It's hard because the arms for the railcannon and arms for the missile pods need to be facing two different angles

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>>52421051

I get the concept of priming, but I had always just used the chaos black because that's what I was always told to use. As I mentioned before, I'm a Sisters player, so I've been painting metal sprayed with chaos black for about 10 years.

Should I switch now? What about my old models that are already sprayed?

I'm also working with plastic now. What a out that?

In general, what should I use? Like I mentioned, I bought some white Gesso because I couldn't spray due to the weather and living in a small apartment. I've seen some friends sprayed stuff with rustoleum, and it looked like he sprayed it with a shiny, dark green epoxy coating almost, but there wasn't much loss of detail.

Also, this may sound dumb, but I've never used a seal before. I wasn't sure what to use because I have metallic armor and matte robes, and I like the shine of the armor. Pic related again for reference.

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Hey /wip/ I need a color scheme for my scions, any suggestions?

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>>52424611
hydra dominatus

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>>52424611

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>>52424611
54th Psian Jackals or...

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>>52424611
>>52424806
Something similar to these little little lads. Yellow and black is a top-tier scheme.

>>52424715
Man, I really need to get some Warzone dudes and do some conversion work with 'em.

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Almost done cleaning my first Deathwatch squad.

>>52424189

Your Durthu makes me want to follow in your footsteps with cherry blossom tree people.

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>>52424849
>assembling the bolter arm so it obscures the chest before painting
Why do people do this? How do you reach all the details?

>>52424837
I can't help but think that they need a bit more yellow somewhere. Good scheme though.

>>52424677
Those guys are like the Dark Angels of the Militarum Tempestus. Barely fucking bothering to hide their true allegiance.

>>52424951
Simple. It's like this:
>"B-b-but you won't see those details anyway!"
>since angles other than front-on don't exist

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Update on the stonehorn, here is his base. Calling it 99% done, just have to spice up the snow in places and drybrush the tree.

Picture of beastie next

>>52425012
Yo nigga is that crushed glass? Looks great!

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And the stonehorn himself, still more to go but he is getting quite close.

C&C welcome

>>52425005
>sees model on table
>picks it up, holds it upside down, and cocks it at a 37 decree angle

You missed a spot! I can't believe I'm playing with such inadequacy!
>scoops grey tide into plastic bin
>dumps tape and dice on top
Good day sir!

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Started cleaning the second Deathwatch squad.

>>52425139
Except the missed spots are often visible if you're looking at the model from top-down. You know, like you would when you're playing a game.

>>52424677
>>52424715
>>52424806
>>52424837

Thanks for all the input Anons! I think I'm gonna go with the black and yellow scheme and I'll make sure to post them here when they're done.
Thanks again for helping me decide, Anons!

>>52424849
>>52425203

I'd recommend getting some 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth out those rough spots.

How do you "translate" a color to another color. What I mean is when, say, a GW tutorial says to use x red, x pink, x orange to paint a red Maw-Krusha, how do you know how to translate that to a blue Maw-Krusha?

>>52425469

Some color theory, a good eye for tints and tones, and a lot of practice and experience.

>>52425469
>dark red --> dark blue
>light red --> light blue

>>52425469
Experiment on something that doesn't cost a fortune.

>>52425597
It was just the example that came to mind cause I was watching the GW tutorial.

Thinking about ordering some conversion parts from forgeworld

Is there anything I should be aware of beforehand? I've heard that the resin will absorb paint in a different way than plastic does.

Any tips or mythbusting on that front?

Anyone know how to make or if there is a very dark almost black metallic to paint over to get that candy alpha legion effect?

>>52425627
Idk about that, but if its properly primed it shouldn't be an issue.

>>52425627
Cleanse the model with dish soap and warm water. Use a toothbrush to scrub.

If you don't want to do that, scrub it with rubbing alcohol on a toothbrush.

>>52425469
Usually by the type of gw paint, they're labeled "base" or "layer", or "wash" or "glaze". Just find equivalents In colors that work well together

You'll find that a basic formula like "base, layer, wash, layer touch-up, highlight" is easy to pull off

>>52425836
>>52425860
Alright awesome. Thanks for the tips guys. Time to make some World Eater CSMs!

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>>52425042
It's still absolutely gorgeous, anon. You're making me wanna buy a Stonehorn just to try and do that ice effect.
i'm seriously doing repeated doubletakes because it looks like light is actually shining through/being reflected off the ice onto the stuff under it, fantastic work senpai

On another note, i'm working on some gue'vesa. This one's mechanical arm looks a bit goofy (fucking administratum gave him one sized for someone a foot taller), and I'm thinking of sticking a drone pulse carbine directly onto the joint so he actually has a tau weapon. Thoughts?
excuse the gaps and shit, it's a test fit

I'm going to assemble a contemptor (resin) soon and was wondering a few things. Starting simple is it best to assemble and basecoat the torso and limbs separately before sticking them all together?

Is regular ass super-glue going to be enough, or should I get something a bit stronger if I don't want it to come lose?

And what would be the best way to go about modelling an unfortunate Spare Marine getting stomped on by its foot? I have all the parts needed its just the execution that I'm having trouble figuring out.

Thanks.

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Progress on my first centurion, definitely some things I can do better on the next few.

I have some edges to sand down, especially on the plasticards. I'm also debating leaving the cables/crotch guard off.

What do y'all think?

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>>52426109
Better picture, weapons and chest weapons are magnetized.

>>52426143
Could we get a picture with the crotch guard in place? Not glued, just sitting.

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Thunderfire coming along, the cannon just needs highlighting and some detail work now.
Already got another one of these, looking forward to dropping some templates on some dudes

>>52426156
I will try, I have the phone sitting on something solid but I can't seem to keep it quite still. I'll try again

>>52426197
Same here, anon. My photos are arguably worse (see >>52426020 for more information)

>>52426102

>Basecoating

If you're looking to do a good job, it is a good idea to prime and paint the parts before assembly, yes. That said, for some larger models it won't matter a great deal as you will still be able to get access to enough of it to paint sufficient detail.

>Super-glue

Super glue is fine, and pretty much the best way to go for resin.

>Modelling

That depends a lot on the exact pose and such you're trying to achieve.

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>>52426216
>>52426156
I think this one is better quality

>>52426283
Yeah, I reckon keep the crotchguard on. Lower half feels a little, idunno, small in comparison to the bulk of the upper half? With the crotchguard it feels properly bulky, but not to the degree of the original centuribear.
I dig it, anon.

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Finally finished this sucker. Thought I might share it with you guys

>>52426306
I tend to agree, it was hell to get the plasticard right but I got the technique down now.

Now for the other 5....

Talk about THICK

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>>52424119
This may have been asked before, but does anyone know how long the site is going to be a work in progress?
And is this a move to separate WK40k, and it's weaker predecessor WH?

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Tzeenchan Chaos Lord with terminator armor, seers bane and a counts as combi melta

>>52426309
anon, it's a bit of a fuckin mess
highlights look like they were done in crayon

>>52426309
>>52426373
I feel like he will need a hug now

>>52426309
>the dead csm at his feet looks better than he does
anon.....

>>52426392
I like the sword...

>>52426371
anon, he's got a khorne symbol right there in his groinplate
pretty cool otherwise!

shit I posted my wip in the 40 kilogram general by mistake
>>52426305

>>52426309
I mean, it's not really finished, is it? there are parts of it that are straight up unpainted

>>52426373
Thanks! I posted it to receive some criticism so I do appreciate the honesty. highlights are a real weak point for me

>>52426309
>the blue paint that splotched onto the half-painted tassles on his belt

Anon, I don't want you to get discouraged, but I think this needs some more work.

So, just starting out at this, and thinking of picking up a box of the Imperial Guard (Cadians).
But I'm not wild about the typical brown and green paint scheme for the guard. Are there any other particularly neat color schemes that work for Cadians?
And, on a related note, are there any colors that are 'traps'? I've heard that white is really really difficult to paint, are there any others?

>>52426513
all of them, anon. this whole hobby is a money trap.
jokes aside pure white, yellow, and bone colors usually get newbies

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I got this Yncarne yesterday, I am about 80% done now. I just need to go over fine details like gemstones. I don't like the hair so I might go over it again. I have to do the sword but I am not sure how I want to do it. I tried non-metalic metals for the first time.

All in all I have been dreading paining my minis but I have been having a blast with this yncarne and it reminds me how much I love painting.

I have my first game with him (yes him) on thursday.

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>>52426309

>>52426309
those are some nice highlights on the sword. However, the rest looks like it was laid on unevenly, too much wash on the blue with no 2nd layer of blue on top, generally try to go for thinner coats, as putting a few on can really make a difference for covering the whole model and making it look less blotchy. Early tabletop/10.

>>52426542
Now Rainbow Celestine will have a friend.

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>>52426542
BUTT.

stupid arm gue'vesa is going into the freezer
I'm thinking about putting a bigger backpack onto him and adding some wiring leading to the arm-gun, and maybe sticking some extra armour bits onto him. He's a big boy, he can take it.

>>52426513
Yellow's kind of a bastard, especially if you're undercoating with black.
>>52426542
needs some neatening up and the face needs a bit of work, but i kinda like it

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>>52426565
Well its on theme for my army.

>>52426420
he just has a skull cockplate

the rune of khorne is a stylized skull, but all skulls are not runes of khorne

>>52424951
As noob walking into this, need to ask - when you talk about arms obscuring the chest, does that refer to *any* arm, or is it only a problem when they're holding a particularly big piece of equipment? Like, is a Commissar holding a pistol up less of a problem than a Heavy Bolter?

>>52426781
It's usually not a problem if the miniature is holding the weapon up and away from its body. Marines in particular tend to clutch their bolters tight to their chests which makes painting the inner details difficult.

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>>52426641
Nope, look closely at the shape of the eyes and the teeth.

>>52425040
It is! Scary shit to work with but the effect is killer

>>52426020
Such high praise! Thank you anon, it's really appreciated. I really can't wait to get an army of these beasts on the field, far cry from my skaven

>>52426641
It could pass as a generic skull but >>52426823
is right.

>>52426823
>>52426888

Now that I look at that khorne sigil, it does look like a sku-

MOTHERFUCKER

>>52426917
Does this mean that if a champion of khorne kills another champion of khorne, he's obligated to add his codpiece to the skull throne?

>>52426962
Tradition dictates he add the codpiece to his own codpiece.

>>52426990
COD FOR THE CODGOD.
GROINS FOR THE GROIN PLATE.

>>52426990
A bulge to surpass metal gear.

>>52426990
well now we need someone to make a khorne champion whose armor is only codpieces

>scraping away some little bits of sprue from a gue'vesa's torso
>notice a tiny bit of sprue that's moved up near the belt buckle
>move to bite it off
what the fuck is wrong with me /wip/
why was that my automatic reaction

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Trying to get better at blending, very wip

>>52425469
Find another tutorial with the colour palette you're aiming for and then apply those paints in the way of the first tutorial.

>>52426917
Goodness. I've been in Warhammer for more than a decade and I never noticed Khorne's sigil was a goddamn skull.

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Anyone willing to rate my first try? I think my base coats were too dark to start with and left it looking a bit dark but overall felt good. My friend put it as "Hey try to make them look like 40k orks for bloodbowl"

Also jesus never realized no matter how good something looks as the painter you ALWAYS notice the fuck ups

>>52427310
THICC

Multiple thin coats, anon

Pick up some medium

>>52425518
>color theory
I love this buzz word

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Any way to keep basing material from falling apart? I've been looking at forest themes lately and I noticed a lot of players have little bits coming off in their photos.

>>52427326
I am just curious, lots of my friends have cool and well detailed mini but kinda look flat and too bright. How many coats should I be aiming for as a general idea for when I do my Skaven. I like them looking dark and dirty but not sure if I should go from a lighter/brighter shade then progress down to darker before I wash with Nuln Oil?

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What do you guys think? Any suggestions/tips?

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>>52427404
Why has his mate got Yellow stripes on his head crest, but this guy doesn't?

It's almost Greyscale.
Not that that ever bothered me.

>>52427402
Like 2-3 is usually good

I tend to use 3:1 paint:medium or so

Don't use water, do NOT, it fucks up the viscosity of the paint and causes it to float weird as hell, becomes a pain to control

>>52427423
Still a W.I.P Im tryin to figure a way out to brighten the gold trim on the armor without it flaring super hard and melding too much with the yellow I plan to stripe on his crest.

>>52426542
This instantly remind me of
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PGNiXGX2nLU

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>>52426542

>him (yes him)

Anon, what are you doing? Are you trying to create a meme or something?

pic related.

>>52427443
Water is absolutely fine for most purposes.

>>52427402
>>52427310
I think you would benefit from watching some tutorials online because I think you probably need a clearer idea of how to approach painting in general. The warhammer TV Duncan tutorials are good and give very clear information for beginners.

>>52427404
You missed a blue spot on his head crest. Second stripe from the bottom, the middle stripe is unpainted. Otherwise looks good so far. The blue and silver works well if you're trying to keep him dull coloured.

Anybody know what will happen if I paint a few layers of bloodletter glaze over white primer? Want a nice smooth red.

>>52427923

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Citadel-Basecoat-Spray-Mephiston-Red

>>52427923
GW glazes aren't what you'd expect, it's basically akin to a consistent wash. Thin coats of tamiya clear red over gold is ideal but it will cover red as well. Or just paint red and gloss with a clear acrylic like vallejo clear or Klear varnish.

>>52426309
I love it, just fix the tassles and call it a day.

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Got a pack of Ork Boyz recently. First time building in years. I don't play. Having a blast with em.

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>>52428321
Please pardon the sideways pic. On mobile.

>>52428321
>>52428335
That's all so far. Next up is the Rokkit Launcha. I've got kinda a theme going on with just one shoulder pad on each Ork's left shoulder. I may put CSM on a few for shits and giggles.

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>>52424910
>cherry blossom tree people

Be careful what you wish for, anon.

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how would I paint the green?

I have Deathworld Forest which I'd use as a basecoat.

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Slightly off-topic, but does anyone happen to know how to make twisted rods like in this pic?

At a guess, you take square styrene rod, heat it up and twist it, but I'm guessing the devil is in the details and that stuff isn't cheap enough to wreck absolutely loads of it figuring out how to do it right.

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So im thinking of trying to make competition quality pieces just to improve my painting skills, I have some HQ units that i would not mind applying a really good paint job to.

My big problem is wet blending, i live in an especially dry area so this technique is very hard for me to pull off, I just bought some paint retarder and it should be arriving in a couple days, but before i was using glaze medium.

I have a couple questions for anyone who has done really good glazes
1.) do you use retarder or glaze or both
2.) how many shades different should the colors i use to blend an area be?
3.) do you blend and then line shade? I am pretty good at applying shade to only the lines and recesses of my models without going over anything that should not have shade on it

Pic related, I consider myself an ok painter, ya i know this model isnt the best but it only took me about an hour and 30 minutes to complete. (the tank that is)

>inb4 mold line
Ya, not gonna fix it, I assembled this model way back and decided recently to give it a good paint job.

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>>52428817

They're getting a new colour

>>52428817

Easiest method is probably to paint it a pale yellow / biege and then do a dull green wash over the top. In GW paints, probably screaming skull and athonian camoshade.

>>52428839
ya you literally heat and twist, atleast thats how its done IRL for that kind of furniture

my guess would to put a rod in both ends and use the rods like corkscrew openers and twist them in opposite directions.

>>52428874
>ya i know this model isnt the best but it only took me about an hour and 30 minutes to complete

what the actual fuck, it takes me twice as long just to paint a single mk3 marine

>>52428874
Alright, I have no pictures to back up what I'm going to say but if anyone else wants to chip in they should back up what I'm saying.

If you want to paint to display level, go and look at some Golden Demon, Slayer Sword and Crystal Brush winners. Take note how smooth their colour transitions are. This is mostly achieved with hundreds of very, very thin glazes. That's not a joke. You will be applying hundreds of layers of incredibly thin glaze in order to build the incredible depth and richness of colour you want in a display piece.

Use glaze medium and some retarder and thin a tiny drop of paint until you can barely (or not at all) see the colour. Apply to the model. Build it up and up. If you're trying to transition, you slowly add the colour you're transitioning to - or you do a three colour blend, where the middle transition sits in the halfway point between the two colour, although this isn't always possible.

It requires a huge amount of patience and precision - it often takes GD winners an entire year just to paint their entry.

>>52427404
>>52427446

I'd tell you to have a talk with the other Anon that's been posting his Sons. Don't have any of his pictures saved on this machine or I'd post them.

>>52429020
to clarify im not looking to make GD entries, Being an engineering student i would not have the time for that.

Im mostly looking on creating just really pleasing models, i actually mostly want to develop this blending skill to work on capes and robes ect....

in short, i want to do just a little better than this, and by a little better i mean add some glaze to some portions of the armour like his abs.

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>>52429086
fucking forgot the pic,

every

fucking

time

>>52428874
>1½ hours for that tank

Pretty good anon, airbrush right?

>>52429528
ya i used an airbrush

I ran out of line shade so i didnt really shade teh model as much as i normally would, also i have a huge backlog so im a bit pushed for time

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First half on the wing done!

>>52429571
looking good, i certainly dont have the patience to do that much line highlighting

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highlighting black power armour was getting on my tits so I made some techno-barbarian knights to work on at the same time

shield arm's a bit wonky, but that'll largely be covered by the tower shield so I'm not gonna worry about it

>>52429571
Beautiful

>>52429571
Looking good, anon

Just needs a little bit of cleanup here and there to keep it uniform

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>>52429626
>highlighting black power armour

I need to spruce up my decades-old Death Company. How are you doing the highlights on your Deathwatch?

>>52428874
>Hmm, my plasma gun feels hotter than normal
>VVVUUSSSSSSSHHHHHHHHHHTTTTTT
>Oh shit this is getting really fucking bright.

ive considered making a tutorial for properly hand painting and airbrushing yellow and white and posting it on tg as a pdf

would anyone be interested? I feel like a lot of people on this board have a seriously hard time with those colors

>>52426309
>Finished

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Here's one of my nobz I'm still new to this any criticism would help

>>52429729
skin is actually pretty good, most people starting out have a really tough time with skin

now learn to take a proper picture.

>>52429729
Aside from 'don't play orks' the skins is looking good, the metal coudl use a more consistent coat, it looks patchy and remeber some red dots on the eyes.

>>52426825
How about sugar? would it work?

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And here's a more finished one
>>52429742
Thanks and I do plan on building a light box eventually I just don't want to at this time
>>52429752
But Orks are fun and the metal isn't done yet I still have to do some work on it this guy's a bit more finished but I still need to do touch ups

>>52429715
If it's good we can add it to the OP, it would be helpful to have something to point those who struggle with it towards.

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>>52429817
ya

for instance people even strugle to hand paint this quality of yellow, which is something i spent barely any time on at all, its frustrating to see so many anons struggle with it and others give bad advise.

btw im talking about the helmet on the right obviously.

>>52429693
The old fashioned multi-stage highlighting way, with just black and white. Mix the two for the initial grey highlight, then a thin pure white edge highlight afterwards. Just a matter of glazing it down with black and re-edging with white if they look too thick or stark.

A whole lot of busywork for something that basically can't be seen at arm's length, though.

>>52426420
I know. I'm gonna paint up a loin cloth before priming.

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Nurgle lord that I have started.

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>>52426823
I own the model

it's a skull

>>52429905
It's a skull in the shape of the Khorne symbol, anon. Look at the belt buckle above it and the way the teeth are lengthened. It's a Khorne symbol.

I'm new to painting. What's highlighting and how do you do it?

>>52429975
the generic terminator kits deliberately avoided specific godly symbols, man

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>>52429902

FTFY...

>>52429626
For Gallia!

Get a Leman Russ Edelweiss you shit!

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Thoughts? I think I'm going to go back in and give him some liver spots or something.

>>52429626

Where you at Adepticon?

>>52430606
Nurgle daemons happiest daemons.

>>52430606
nice, though with death guard releases imminent I'd hold off getting too invested yet.

>>52430606
pretty nice!

>>52430597
but my doctor told me I'm allergic to non-infantry models

>>52430620
I know some people who went, but I didn't.

>>52429770
Hmm I'm not entirely sure, it might be worth a try.

I will say the secret weapons miniatures realistic water definitely helps. I have Vallejo still water and I am not a fan

>>52429861
It would probably be worth it, yellow isn't an easy color.

I never paint straight yellow my base is orange yellow and I build up from thwre. Otherwise it always looks flat.

I HATE the way he paints imperial fists on the box art

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>>52430942
believe it or not that yellow right there is actually straight flash gits yellow, no yellow base, just grey primer

what do you hate about the box art? pic related is the marine on the box art

i will agree it is a bit flat though

>>52430714
I actually already have a nice little Nurgle warband. Rhino's, a hellbrute, Terminators, Typhus, three squads of CSM, some Havocs, Obliterators, Raptors, and an assortment of cultists (re purposed Necromunda figs), some possessed and a couple of chaos spawn and no less than 3 demon princes. Kinda too late go go in on Nurgle.

>>52430876

I only ask because someone with your scheme 1:1 was there and playing.

Anons, what's a good color pallete to go with Orks?

>>52431199
if you are using the default green ork skin color my favorite colors to go along with it are yellow and red

but honestly orks are so fun and funky you can basically pick any color scheme you want and roll with it.

>>52430049
Clearly not.

>>52429905
>>52429975
>>52431332
That's just a skull anon, chill. There're no chaos symbols in the chaos terminator box other than undivided stars.

>>52431002
Straight yellow looks too flat to me, it needs some darker tones and or weathering to give it a proper amount of depth. The he box art (cents mostly) look so flat and weird to me, while the ultramarine scheme on the front looks fine

Your yellow actually looks quite good, I'm impressed.

There is an anon who posted a large family photo of his fifth company imperial fists that looked fantastic imo. If I painted fists (which I want to) I would paint them in that fasion.

>>52431417
i can see what you mean
I think on of the biggest pitfals people fall into when painting light colors is being too conservative with the dark area, you almost can see no shade on the imperial fist model around his pouldrons and the vent ports on his legs.

I guess ill just go ahead do the tutorial, im thinking of just taking two spare space marines and painting one as an imperial fist and the other as a white scar

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>>52431417
>not keepeing your amor clean and in pristine condition at all times

What are you some kind of heretic? Then again, damaged yellow does look nice if done well.

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>>52431417
>>52431529
then again clean can also look good if shaded nicely

>>52431141
huh

that's kinda neat

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>>52431529
This guy paints the best fists.
And for some reason whenever I look at his minis I feel a strange urge to eat cheese. Huh.

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>>52431597

>>52431597
i can appreciate the style but man i am not a fan of super cartooney models like that

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>>52431611
damn those are nice

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>>52431612
you should've seen his eldar

>>52426373
Although at closer inspection, I feel you're correct how about giving the dude some actual advice to improve it?

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>>52431627
Oh fuck I remember that guy. He painted pic related for the 2012 GD Australia

>>52427366
That's two words, fucker.

>>52431698
that's chicago 2011 you fucking idiot

and "that guy"'s name is James Wappel. he won the GD like 15 times

>>52427366
what the fuck else would you call it

>>52424189
loving this

>>52425042
damn that's amazing. i love the colors you have on the horns but i can't help but wonder if some blood effects might help to break it up. those bluish hues you have are lovely but there is a lot of it.

>>52426542
i'm excited to see this progress

>>52427176
i like those blends a lot anon

>>52430506
>>52429902
i like these colors

>>52430606
i love everything about this except the face. some spots sounds like a good idea. the face is just too innocent looking. maybe darken around the eye as well.

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What's a good GW color recipe for heavy-equipment yellow?

I'm building up my second Sentinel for my GSC, and I'd like to have this one look like repurposed mining equipment of sorts.

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Renegade Enforcer I recently converted up, Im debating making him my arch demagogue though, I like him more than any of my other renegade officers thus far.

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Tried pledge multi-surface polish and was impressed with the result. It applies very thin and smooth, really enriches the colour and highlights stay clear. It's a fraction of the price of purity seal and totally superior.

>>52431002
I'm jelly as fuck at how smooth that looks

It's a really simple paintjob mostly, solid color with some shading and an edge highlight, but the crispness makes it look fantastic

>>52431880
Are you done with the terminator? maybe its the light but he looks rather flat

>>52432176
tg likes to meme thin your paints, for a good reason, but the almost always neglect to mention that the way you paint it on can still make really think paint look rough and clumpy

ill post it in the tut i make, if its good enough to be used, but one of the secrets to light colors is that when you apply it to an area, your brush strokes should generally be in the same direction

it does not matter so much for dark colors since you apply 1-2 coats, but with light colors you can find yourself applying over 5 layers, and if your strokes are irregular the paint will build up in irregular areas and appear bumpy

>>52432186
nah just the red finished so far. Just trying out the polish first.

>>52431597
>>52431611
>>52431627
Nurgle as fuck. I'm painting up multicoloured Nurgle daemons, and if I expand to plague marines I'd happily adopt this guy's scheme.

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>>52428878

any tips on painting Iron Hands? Just picked up a Tactical Marine box.

>>52424119
New painter here. I got the Dark Vengeance as a gift this month and I was wondering if I really need the amount of paint they recommend. I think there are something like 20 different paints they want me to get including multiple washes and glazes?

>>52432795
You don't NEED all of them, but you really do need them to have your dudes look good.

So basically, yeah.

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>>52432795
If you're planning on painting both the Dark Angels and the Chaos then yeah, probably.

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Highlighting marines is such a bitch, it takes too damn long. I wish I could just basecoat, wash and be done, but nope.

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I'm a retarded nigger and painted my knights nameplate upside down

>>52432847
>>52432825
Fuck. Thanks. I only used to paint WW2 stuff before, and it was much smaller so I didn't really have to worry about all this stuff. I guess I'll make a list.

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>>52432795
no

i also got the dark vengeance box a while ago and i painted this marine using mephiston red, black, white, lead belcher, zandri drust, ushbati bone, flash gitz yellow, caliban green, nuln oil, and agrax earthshade

the trick is that you you can just make your own highlights and own greys using the black, yellow, and white.

If you are lazy and dont want to save money then get every color they recommend, but in reality you only need 10 colors.

>order micron pens to do Carcharodons markings
>Kinda bummed I'll still need to get a white pen or learn how to paint them
>package arrives
>white pen is included
>mfw

Nice little surprise for me, soon my dudes will finally be complete when I add the Envirotex lite to make water in their bases.

Can I just add paint to the mix when I'm making the resin or do I need special paints, and a certain way to do it?

>>52432939
Oh that looks pretty good. Is that the list of colors you would recommend using for the whole set? I know I need a blue for the plasma stuff.

I really want to get this set painted, and get practice because I'm more interested in playing Harlequin and I want to get the basics of painting large miniatures down before I go ham on some space clowns.

>>52432939
well i like my plasma blue so i would pick up macragge blue, and again if you need to make it lighter just add white and if it needs to be darker add a bit of black.

>>52432887
just because you made a mistake and you're angry at yourself doesn't mean you need to denigrate black people by association

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>>52433097
>I know I need a blue for the plasma stuff
technically you don't need it

plasma coils can be painted like metal, rather than glowing

>>52432887
it's so he can read it

Anyone have a good color guide for WW2 German tank camo? I'm going to try something new.

>>52433142
>plasma coils can be painted like metal
If you're a weak ass bitch, maybe.

>>52433204
Battlefront used to have one up on their site. If you mean the three color scheme I used Vallejo Middlestone for the base, Reflective Green and German Camo Med. Brown

>>52433097
Try collecting sets of color, like a green base/layer/highlight, then a red set, and a blue set. Start slow and eventually you'll have all you need.

>>52433239
For real, it's super simple stuff. Dark blue base, lighter layer, and thinned white.

>>52433239
>wanting your plasma to overheat
do you even superstition, bro?

>>52433140
Nigger calm down

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>>52433097
>I know I need a blue for the plasma stuff.
The ridges are magnetic coils.
There is no reason for them to glow at all. In fact if they'd glow it'd probably be indicative of a field failure.

Either way there is no hard and fast rule for this.
If another color goes better with your scheme there is no reason you couldn't have purple or orange coils. Or silver or copper ones.

Rule of cool goes.

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Went to my FLGS the other night for some games but it was so busy there was hardly any scenery to spare, decided to start bringing my own and quickly whipped this up with a kit thats been sitting under my bed for a while

>>52433079
Probably do some googling about adding colours. I know some things can alter resin setting times, don't have any specific help though sorry.

>>52433140
One simple way to tell if you're not a good fit for 4chan

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C&C? I still have to touch up in a bunch of spots that I noticed after taking the picture.

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Started working on my wyches. This should should be fine for painting, right? They're fairly open models, and only a few of the weapons cross over the chest. Still. Better to go for consistency I guess.

A few questions because I've never painted in parts before. Should I not prime the joints? This is also the first time hand priming as well, so I'm totally in the dark here. I'm worried about gluing what I'm not magnetizing.

Second question is about the base. Should I doll it up before I prime? I'm honestly shit at bases, so that will also be a learning experience. I honestly don't even know what to use for dark eldar bases.

>>52433650
Needs to have the highlights on the green touched up a bit, but good overall.

I've been using a white LED flashlight to double-check my models when painting, it makes mistakes and thin layers stand out like a sore thumb.

>>52433650
Armours looking a little flat, try applying some strong highlights, is that Incubi Darkness? Highlighting would be best with kalabite green and sybarite green.

You should also paint the eyes with something brighter to really make it stand out and be very careful when you try to touch up those golden symbols on the head. Keep at it mang

>>52427372
Depends what you are using, but in general, lots of PVA glue.

For soft, organic material, you might want to use some kind of two-part resin. I've got no experience with that, so can't really say any more.

Yes, this seriously fucks up the underlying colour so you need to paint over it.

>>52432887
Well you could repaint it OR leave it as is and see if anyone in your shop recognizes you as the nigger guy.

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Don't have anything to dryfit, but thoughts on this "scythe" for my black orc big boss?

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>>52434023
I look forwards towards my bright future as the nigger guy

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>>52426371
Progress since last night. Very proud of how it turned out. Need to get to highlighting and detail work.

>>52433140
lies

>>52434553

So you left that Khorne symbol on his dick, huh?

>>52434612
>>52434612
i dont think thats a khorne symbol

>>52434612
No, just didn't have time to cover it up. Work in 30.

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Hey does anyone have any experience with Victoria Miniatures, been thinking about getting some bits for my Guardsmen.

Do they fit well with GW kits and what materials are they made from. (if resin, do you clean them the same way as forgeworld resin)

Thanks

>>52434861
I got a free model from them in my adepticon swag bag. I think it's a female tank crewman, and the detail is nice for a metal mini, but the scale seemed to be smaller than normal guardsmen. Could be truescale/heroic differences.

>>52426268
Much thanks, will have to think a lot about the pose, since I'm not sure exactly how all the pieces will need to go together to get it just right.

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How long should I wait before I mask the painted side to avoid pulling the whole layer of paint off when I'm done? I'm new to airbrushing other than basecoating.

So I'm wondering what type of brushes you guys use. I get the relatively cheap brushes from my local hobby shop but they lose the point for detail so quickly. I need good brushes that will hold a tip but won't break the bank.

>>52434967
>truescale

DISGUSTING

>>52435076
Wait until it dries, silly. I'd give it half an hour to be safe.

>>52431828
Nice, I love that scion command jacket.
I've been considering doing something similar myself for a arch demagogue
Is the body also from the scion kit or did you use something else?

>>52435260
Well, paint can be fickle. Not always dry just because it looks and feels dry. I'll let it sit for half an hour though.

>>52435076
Longer than you think. Like an hour. If you don't have time for that, use a hair dryer or something to cook it. Also, use high-quality painter's tape rather than cheap masking tape.

>>52434553
Looks good. That the new Thousand Sons Blue yes? I wonder if it's anywhere close to Vallejo Game's Electric Blue

>>52434861
>Do they fit well with GW kits and what materials are they made from.
it depends on what kits you're looking at

Victoria minis do both resin and metal figures, with a varying scale. Most should work with guard, but some are closer in scale to the metal perry guardsmen than the newer plastic ones.

>>52435622
mainly the long coat legs with renegade forgeworld torsos.

>>52435638
the renegade torsos would probably fit, but they'll be weirdly long since the greatcoat legs are rather stumpy

>>52426542
There are some real nice color blends, however less colors might have worked bit better, imo. Now everything is a highlight, but if you like rainbows and explosion of color.

Best course for the sword would be shiny white tip, grey to black towards very beginning of the hilt

Also it's a "he+she", don't kid yourself.

>>52427372
Oh man, if you'd only use tiny/small botches of those base flowers around the actual model. Red or blueish flowers right in between the skulls to make them bit more subtle... That base is great.

>>52433710
Bump?

>>52433710
prime everything

paint fully assembled, thats what i do almost all the time unless a part is 100% in the way.

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Here's a space marine model.I'm new to painting miniatures,so I was going to ask if this needed shade or not.I already applied some,but I think that when I repainted the base I covered it up.Any help would be appreciated.

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>>52436118

First time basing anon from previous threads(im ashamed to admit im the gue'vesanon with the albino kroot that posts here, you guys always suggested to base my dudes.)

I made my first scenic base ever yesterday, and its turning out better than expected, so i think im going to be braver with the theme.
How to paint this to look like a piece of a concrete wall, breach-and-enter siege style? Is grass going to stand out too much? Its a dark brown dirt, went for a crater type color. Sorry for the blog.

>>52436118
for one, its a bit thick


two you dont just re paint everything, you avoid the recesses were the shade settled and paint everything thats not supposed to be shaded

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>>52436135

>>52436118
Thin your paints, throw a shade wash on it, and paint the eyes a different color.

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>>52434861
Working on some right now

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>>52436136
The picture might help a tad.

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>>52434861

>>52436136
>How to paint this to look like a piece of a concrete wall
Stick some pieces of paper clip poking out the edge of the cork like broken rebar.

>>52436142
Thanks,that really helps.I usually thin my paints with water,although I tried to paint with no thinning and very little paint since when I thinned it would pool and wouldn't move across the mini.I still haven't got a good paint to water ratio down,I guess.

>>52434612
>Left Khorne's face on his dick so he's always being face fucked by you.

Just

As

Planned.

>>52436283
ya never use unthinned paint.

most people like to compare the consistency to 2% milk, but thats kind of a bad comparrison

a better way to think of it is that you want it thin enough that it will dry smooth and not clump, but not so thin thats its totally translucent. Thinned paint for general application should stay were its placed.

it just takes practice, dont worry.

>>52436162
I'll try shading again since I think i distributed it badly last time and ended up just darkening the colors without actually shading anything.As for the eyes,I used Balthasar Gold.

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Why are Orks so fun?

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Shit photo I know but ive started this iron warrior. Too dirty? I want an oily dirty look but I think I've over done it.

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It's the Easter holidays, I can finally do some /tg/ stuff, and read my own books for a change.

>>52436309
Yeah,when I thinned it down,it was clear in some areas and clumped up in the rest.Im currently painting a second marine,and I have used thinner paint.The problem was when I was touching up I forgot to thin it,and later I couldn't get the ratio down.Anyways,thanks for the help.I'm going to go apply a wash to the first marine,and continue the second.

>>52436334

Seems too dark, and doesn't look oily at all because you've used a matt wash.

Why not try a basecoat of silver, whatever you prefer and then mix some real oil paint with thinner and wash the model with that.

Then using a cotton bud with more thinner on, drag it across the flat panels to remove the excess oil paint.

>>52436334
Dark as is, some choice highlights up from that point thought might be pretty striking

>>52436334
ya its a bit too dark

usually not a problem but if you were to add any kind of hazard stripes or yellow it would look way out of place, also the black is just gonna blend in

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Working on my Nurgle Gorebeast Chariot's Gorebeast. What do you think so far?
Also what suggestions do you have for his left front leg? Currently I'm thinking about making it one giant claw hand using the large spikes from the Spawn box.

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>>52436399
A side view. And yes, his hide needs some more work.

Any other ideas/tips/suggestions you might have are welcome!

>>52436163
lemme know how they are.

>>52436456
What kit is the non custom stuff from? Looks neat. Also what's the green stuff, putty? Looks good!

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>>52436399
honestly i would like to see skin sloughing off kind of like pic related

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Finally found a use for the leftover Forge World resin...

>>52436142
why do people do this? Why dont you just put the shade in the recesses to begin with? Its not hard, in fact its easier than repainting the base color and not making it thicc due to excess layers.

>>52436494
Thanks, I'm having a ton of fun working on it!
The eye-stalks are from the Chaos Forsaken box and the non-custom growths and spikes on his leg is from the Chaos Spawn and Warhounds boxes. The maw is a dissembled belly from the Putrid Blightking-box and the base of the miniature is the gorebeast from the Chariot box.

The green stuff is indeed Green Stuff-putty :)

>>52436502
That's a really neat idea. Unfortunately it doesn't really fit the way I'm picturing this gorebeast. Luckily however I have another Gorebeast Chariot waiting which I might just use your idea for!

>>52436205
Thats a good idea. I also have some of those small plastic tubes on cheap brushes, theyre different sizes and i was thinking they might work as exposed pipes, or broken wall supports.

I forgot to add to >>52436172 that my planned scheme is a loose take on Iron Warriors, if that affects how i should go about this

>>52436379
>use real oil paint
Is this bait?

Noobie, working on some of my first models-

1. What is your recommendation for painting the insides of Pink Horror mouths, technique-wise? Not a large opening, and I'm not sure of my ability to maneuver my brush.

2. I've heard that primer plays havoc with glue, but it seems you generally attach to base after you've painted (from the guides I've read). Do you just scrape the primer off the feet first?

Thanks!

>>52436602
sometimes its not best to only hit the recesses

whats nice about a shade is that it can take a lot of different layers of different colors and blend them together

look at this pic, specifically his chest plate >>52432939

I actually highlighted the zandri dust twice, once before the wash and once after the wash, the wash helps tie everything together and gives it a smooth transition

some other aspects however like the helmet, shoulder pads, and legs have targeted line washes like you describe

hope that answers you question

>>52436640
>1. What is your recommendation for painting the insides of Pink Horror mouths, technique-wise? Not a large opening, and I'm not sure of my ability to maneuver my brush.
Paint the mouth first then, so you don't have to clean up after yourself in case it gets sloppy.
>2. I've heard that primer plays havoc with glue, but it seems you generally attach to base after you've painted (from the guides I've read). Do you just scrape the primer off the feet first?
Plastic glue works by slightly melting the plastic. The solvents basically create a chemical weld between two parts that way.
So if you are glueing plastic to plastic primer or paint can be an issue if you use plastic glue. You could just use superglue instead, but scraping paint off or masking it before painting isn't a biggie either.

>>52436631
Not him but I do use oil washes.

>>52436708
Thank you!

For masking, would simple scotch tape work? Or is there a superior item for the task?

>>52436608
Very impressive!

>>52436743
scotch tape would certainly work.
some people use blue tac of something similar. Also comes in handy when you need to hold components together for fitting or something along those lines.

>>52436976
Thank you very much!

Hey guys, my Ork Boyz came with a few small bullet belts with maybe 5 bullets on em. What are they for? I thought maybe arm bands but they don't fit right.

>>52436095

I've been told not to paint fully assembled, though.

Also, I have no idea what to do for bases for wyches.

>>52437088
Decoration.

>>52432887
Just act as if it saying deus vult upside-down is an easter egg, and you meant to write it this way so it looks like some fancy 40k space language's writing.

>>52437088
>>52437088
>I thought maybe arm bands but they don't fit right.
>>52437112
Oh wait, now that I read it again that makes more sense.
They fit on the torso or shoulderpads.
You can turn the straps over the bodies into ammo belts that way.

>>52437088
Decoration. Put them on your sluggas or shootas.

>>52437138
>>52437140
Thanks fellas

Assembling some Tau Crisis suits and looking at parts- It would appear that I have a part which is considered to be a Multi-Tracker, but I only have one of them for my three models. Don't Crisis Suits come with Multi Trackers standard? Why do I only get one of them?

Also, I'm finding conflicting information regarding what size magnets are best for their weapons and systems- I got 1/16x1/32" magnets based off of the main guide I found, but then elsewhere I'm finding people recommending 1/8x1/16.

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What would be a nice colour to paint my DKoK coats that isn't very popular? Was thinking Death World Forest because I haven't seen that very often, mostly either Thundethawk Blue or some sort of black.
I haven't seen a red that would look good. Most colours would look weird on DKoK I think.
Any ideas? What would you paint them if you had them?

>>52437434
>What would you paint them if you had them?
The standard black. Call me boring all you want but it looks fucking good.

>>52437494
Nah man I totally agree. Even if it's a tad overdone it looks so fucking good. Maybe I could do black coats with some different colour on the armour like Steel Legion Drab...

>>52436321
Becuz they are rite an' propah

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Quick question how do I know what color to prime with and what should I prime my nobz with?

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>>52437434
I think a cool one would be to paint them as if they have those flame-retardant volcano suits and say they operate on a volcanic world.

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Still very much a work in progress.

Was a bit overzealous with the weathering around the feet but im happy with it so far.

>>52437695
Unless you're painting them mostly one colour, grey, black or white spray primer will do. Black to make your model look darker, white for lighter or if most of your nobz will be one colour you can pick up coloured sprays.

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How do you guys feel about my Carab Culln?

>inb4 thin your paints

I know...
but I am still content with how my boy turned out.

I want to invest in some weathering powder to make the bases for my scorps look like vraks more

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>>52437814
Yellow is a nightmare to paint with

especially when it gets too thin or when my pallet lets it dry out slightly and fucks up the consistency

>>52437814
I feel like you are biting off more than you can chew. Literally the only competent skills that model displays are painting somewhat neatly and within the lines, and being able to assemble the model properly, which most anyone should be able to do, but is hilarious when people get it wrong.

Before trying to get as advanced as pigments and weathering, master basic techniques first such as straightening resin pieces, thinning paints, smooth, bold layers, and neater washes or cleaning up after the wash step.

The face and yellow parts especially will benefit from thinned paints, and the grey armor will benefit from neater washing or layering. Throwing blood and dirt on a messy miniature just makes a bigger mess. You need to master painting a good basic mini first.

>>52437814
You should work on learning to thin your paints and do layering properly before you worry about weathering powders.

>>52424119
>Yellow is a nightmare to paint with
Dude you have a lot more to worry about than yellow HAHAHAHA

>>52437814
Jiminy Christmas. Don't waste your money on weathering powder, ok? You gotta get some fundamental skills in, especially thinning your paints.

Couple things. Dont wash all over the model for that grey armor. It'll end up blotchy. Use a small brush and wash in the recesses then clean up with grey. Watch a gw tutorial on painting 30k space wolves. For your yellow, basecoat with a white base paint first. Dont paint yellow onto black or dark colors. You also need to get into edge highlighting.

Don't worry about eyes for now. Cadian fleshtone, reikland fleshshade, then another thin layer of cadian on the raised surfaces.

But you gotta thin your shit, man. Watch duncan do it. Get his consistency.

Also, are you actually priming first?

>>52424119
any tips for making a model dual-weld pistols with a lack of guns being held left handed?

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>>52437814
You can do it and I believe in you so don't get discouraged, but you also made me type a lot of advice so I'm stealing his face for my amusement.

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>>52437909
>Painting somewhat neatly with thin lines

this is a bigger complement than I was expecting desu

I think a lot of it has to do with my impatience as well. I know that I could be doing a lot better but settle with this result because its my middle ground between not wanting it to look like total shit but also not putting in too much effort that painting becomes more of a chore.

>tfw I also only collect fluffy lists and am also too socially awkward to go to a LGS to play

I dont come to 4chan because im a great person...

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>>52436582
Nice my dude!

>>52438172
Another good tip is to try and avoid painting faces until you git gud at painting.

>>52437710
>thinking the administorum would supply them with anything above flak armor

It would look cool though

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>>52438140
>implying I didnt post my god awful miniature just so that some anon could steal the face as a reaction image for some future >THIN YOUR FUCKIN PAINTS< thread

the whole reason I put so much fucking blood on that spot was because I kept fucking up the eye to the point that after so many retries there was a build up of layers of messy paint next to it that ruined the texture even more than If i had done as bad a job as the rest of him

on a side note: how do you anons deal with having uncontrollably shaky hands? I am a borderline parkinsons painter sometimes (which im sure you all could have guessed by looking at that poor fuckin Culln)

>>52438268
I have pretty shakey hands, I put them both together and then brace myself on my desk.

>>52438268
Christ man this mini is really awful. I get that you come from reddit and you feel the need to use this site as your personal blog but please. At the very least get good before posting your shit here. There's a reason not everybody posts their minis here.

>>52438268
Diazepam.

>>52438322
Hey woah woah hey
I aint from reddit

I been lurking here for years and whenever an absolute shitbag like me drunkenly stumbles into the thread it always gets a lot less hug-box like and a whole lot more funny with everyone roasting the poor bastard

People usually post a lot more when they can shit on someone too

>>52438322
Found the arsehole

>>52438411
Was that supposed to make me reflect on my post or something? Seriously, what do you think happens when you call somebody an "arsehole" on 4chan? Do you really think it is a good point? Do you, after hitting submit, lean back in your chair, arms folded behind your head, chins flapping in the wind, smirk to yourself and feel accomplished?
Good job bud.

>>52438452
Found the angry marines/kharn player

>>52438471
Damn I would feel really dumb right now if you were right. I play IG though bud. Care to make any other insightful rebuttals, or are you going to leave this thread to the adults?

>>52438322
>At the very least get good before posting your shit here.
the whole point of /wip/ is getting feedback, in order to improve.

Your post is so stupid I can't even

>>52438268
>how do you anons deal with having uncontrollably shaky hands?
I brace my arms or wrists on the table and take deep slow breaths, then I hold my breath to put the paint on the model.

>>52438523
Incorrect. People starting out painting should watch Duncan videos to get a grip on the basics.
If these posts were meant for people on such a low level of painting, the entirety of these threads would just be "thin your paints".
/wip/ is for critique and showing off of minis that are at least decently painted. Why would you want these threads to answer the same questions every day?
Go back to le'ddit, please.

>>52438452
*tips fedora*

>>52438586
>/wip/ is for critique and showing off of minis that are at least decently painted.

Haha you fucking elitist bellend. Get a grip m8. People of all abilities can post here... its not some super special club where you get to dictate who can do what.

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>>52438634
Damn nice meme, bud. Surely you have beaten me. Here's a meme just for (You).

>>52438666
Fuck off Satan. You're nothing but a sad little man who treats this place like your the king of the castle.

>>52438692
That's not an argument, my friend.

>>52438704
Im not arguing. Im telling you what you are.

>>52438724
I sense a tad of projection in your posts. Are you feeling okay, bud?

>>52438704
Overweight Americans are cancer