WIP THREAD

I need a little paint advice.

>>52401895
>>52401918

>>52401806
I would work on brightening the mustard color, and doing some more work on the lenses. Traditional blue would pop well due to your color pallet.

>>52401985
Im keeping the yellow as is as I like it but i'll probably change the lenses to blue at some point.

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Is it usual for like half a bag of Lichen to be sort of rotten?

Got a bag of exciting colours, but a load seems limp and discoloured. It was only £2 a bag so I'll live.

How do they even prepare it for modelling? Do they just grow the plant and tear chunks off, which will eventually rot on the base, or is it treated somehow? I don't think Lichen comes in fluorescent orange like in my bag.

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What's everyone been doing over the weekend?

Finally got my favourite AdMech unit pinned, magnetized and assembled.
Gonna see if I can give them a paintjob, or at least start with it, this week, hoping I can before next weekend. Also praying that the magnets in the Blasters will stay put once the greenstuff is dried and can hold the greenstuff's weight.

Building this fucking Magos on the side is way too distracting. Don't get anything else done and don't get any real progress on him done either.

>>52402121
Been getting down my colour scheme for each role in my Tau army. Now I have 1 FW, pathfinder, stealthsuit and drone done. I have all the guidance needed to do up almost the entire thing. I'm stoked, I've never felt such painting drive before, I usually find it tedious at best.

>>52402121
I love kastelans. They may be my favourite 40k model.

I need to start and Admech army...

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Is this red good enough for thousand sons? Should I do another few passes of tamiya clear red? Ignore the bare golds on the face its a test model.

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>>52402266
I'm so sorry for the file size, I chose the wrong file.

Here's the less triggering image.

>>52402294
I would say izt's ok, but the light is distracting a little bit

>>52402121
Doing the highlights of my devilfish and drones
After that I can go on with the terrain for them and my pathfinders
It's weird, I really enjoy painting the individual soldiers and the battlesuits, but the drones are a chore to me
Welp, at least I have something to do until my riptide gets delivered fucking GW always takes so fucking long to deliver

>>52402199
What colour scheme do you have?

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>>52401943
Unfinished best legion coming through

Also am working on finishing my 4th BA for a game tomorrow, just finished apply line shade to him , need to finish the special weapons guy too

Am using the second head which is finished for the most part

>>52402121
>>52402260
I personally disagree. I think they look silly, and don't fit in with the 40k aesthetic. I do wish Skitarii had Canticles though...

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>>52401289

Bumping

I really don't known what to do for Deldar bases, and I'm not sure about what colors to go with a dark green armor. That's IF I should even do dark green and not keep. It closer to black with green highlights

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>>52402388
These:

>>52358166
>>52391254
>>52401709

>>52402502
Damn, that does look good. Love your highlights, done real nice

>>52402526
Thank you very much! I wanted to keep it as simple as possible as I honestly think I suck at painting. I take year-long hiatuses.. I find this scheme very pleasing to the eye though, which is really giving me the drive.

>>52402477
I personally love the Kastelans as well.
Its pretty funny how extremely opinionating those things are, everybody either loves them or hates them, nobody's ever really neutral about them.

>>52402121
>You put your left arm in, you take your left arm out, you put your left arm in and you shake it all about

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>>52402710
Yeah, noticed that both have their left arms up after already assembling them. Looks a bit silly but still seems aight.

Like it better than placing both arms straight up for the blasters and them doing a zombie-walk pose if the hands are on instead.

Need to really figure out which parts to paint White, Red or Metallic Blue. Absolutely no idea how to do them.

>>52402799
The pose was funny because it looks like your Datasmith is doing it too.

Excellent scheme by the way.

accidentally left my brush sitting upright in water, now im having a hell of a time getting it to keep a point. anything I can do to fix it, or am I fucked?

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>>52401979

Oh, good. I was hoping to weigh in on this - and that OP isn't even mine (What?!? With all the broken video links? Emperor's Teeth)!

Most GW tutorials for silver end up with Runefang Steel (the old Mithril Silver) as the highest highlight, but I don't think he did that kind of thing here. The gears look a little darker - more used and worn.

>>52402867
Didn't even realize the Smith does the same, heh.

Guess I can just say they use some kind of adaptive behaviour protocols that link their movement to their affiliated Datasmith's. Because techno-babble to solve silly issues is always a good solution.

Thanks, by the way!

>>52402942
Have you tried using brush soap on it to fix it into shape? Has saved me a few times already.

>>52402970
dunno what brush soap is

How do you guys keep motivated when you are working on something? I keep on having issues of leaving things half finished,

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>>52402942
>anything I can do to fix it, or am I fucked?

You can *try* using Masters Brush Cleaner, but it might be better to just buy a new brush and keep this ruined one around to mix paints, drybrush, etc.

>>52402799
>4.16mb
oh geeze oh man

this is just nuts

>>52403005
Golly, Ohio

>>52403005
>4.16mb
Oh fuck, uploaded the un-resized one. Sorry about that. Fucking phone literally has no smaller image setting and it's pretty fucking stupid.

>>52402493

Look at a color wheel, read up on some color theory to figure what color to pair it with.

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>>52402799
Those kastelans, paint one red and another blue, plz

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>>52402990
>How do you guys keep motivated when you are working on something? I keep on having issues of leaving things half finished,

1). Remove any projects you are not working on and get them out of sight. Just keep the small amount of models you are currently focused on in your work space. Even subconsciously, the sight of a legion of bare grey plastic can be pretty disheartening.
2). Force yourself to do something small - a little thing like removing some mold lines or clipping a few bitz off a sprue - when your urges are telling you to be lazy otherwise, and see if that kindles something. Frequently when I start by doing something that seemed inconsequential, I look up and realize that just turned into a 90-minute painting session. I promise, you'll paint a lot more models doing that than you will watching TV or playing video games.
3). Put on some music, or have a familiar movie/video playlist (some elegan/tg/entlemen suggest podcasts or our own Blessed Saint's painting tutorials) going in the background.
4). Go down to your LGS and either get into a game, watch one in progress, shoot da bull, or just see what da uvver ladz iz wurkin' on. That never fails to make me want to paint more (just ta show 'em!).

>>52403116
You know, that might actually be a pretty neat solution. White as the primary color, paint one's knees and other "outwards armor plates" in blue and the other's in red. Gonna give that some actual consideration since it could be pretty fun.
Even if I don't think I ever saw that show.

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Not doubting G-Dub's ability to put water in a jar and sell it as "High Performance Wash Medium," is there any worthwhile hardware store alternative to GreenStuff (or Bluestuff etc) that can be used for sculpting and molding? Its just epoxy putty right?

>>52403194
>is there any worthwhile hardware store alternative to GreenStuff

Google "Kneadatite", and you will have all sorts of merchants falling all over themselves to sell it to you at a fraction of GW's prices.

>>52403169
thanks I will give that a try.

I m working on painting up one of those revel Uwings to practice and get my grove back after an 8 year break

>>52403194
look up kneadite, it is the trade name of greenstuff, you can get larger quantities of it. the key thing is you want something that you can work with, but not quick set. most of the stuff in amazon has tubs of grey stuff you can get, it is a bit brittle for unsupported stuff, but for surfaces, it is great

So, I've got my Electro-Priest sprues from the Eradication cohort I picked up earlier this year still lying around, gather dust and I don't intend on ever building the actual models since I also already stole a bunch of their bits anyway.

Been wondering what to possibly use their bodies for. They'd obviously make for pretty decent Datasmiths, but I'll never, ever need that many of them. Also considered maybe just using their lower bodies to make some heavily robed Black Templars, but not really convinced how silly that'd look either.

Any ideas?

Any images of easy ways to base your minis? I saw an anon comment that white glue+sand works. Im new to basing, so i dont even know if i need to sand the base flat first.

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>>52403228
>>52403242
Much thanks.

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If I'm magnetizing pic related should I be using 1/8 x 1/16 or 1/16 x 1/32? I really don't want to mess these guys up.

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Hey guy, I know you're lurking. Do you remember where the robe piece on this dude came from? I can't place it.

>>52403561
I'm not that guy, but it looks exactly like one of the robes from the Black Templars upgrade pack with its belt covered in Dark Angels icons. The folds even match up, so I'm pretty sure it is.

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Reposting for Imperial Austrian Guard Soon™

>>52403115

I guess that's what I'll have to do. I usually just ask people because I'm actually a bit colorblind and can't into what shades go with what.

Also, how feasible is it to magnetize special/wych weapons for Deldar?

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>>52403614
you are 100% sir

>>52403869
I knew knowing all my dude's armors would be helpful one day!

Hey! Noobie here, actively trying to put together and paint my very first minis. I'm working on some basic fire warriors with rifles, and trying to make sure I have my order of operations correct.

I've cut relevant pieces out of the sprue, and am in the process of cleaning mold lines. I've noticed that some of the arm-positions will make painting their interiors somewhat difficult, and am currently debating the merits of painting before/during/after assembly. My primer is a can, though- So if I wanted to paint the body and arms/weapon separately, what would be the best way to go about it?

1. Paint body->Attach arms/weapon->Paint those (Not sure how to prime just the arms/weapon since body is already painted)
2. Paint body->Paint arms/weapons->Attach arms/weapon (Not sure if gluing would be more difficult once parts were painted?)

And also, I take it I should be using thin glue for these little guys? Thanks!

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>>52403833

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Thoughts on the Black Orc Big Boss? Going to attach a gore-choppa blade to his weapon asap.

>>52403949
dwarf shield seems really out of character for an ork

>>52403989
>>52403949
this, i like the helmet but that shield is not orky enough, maybe if it had some battle damage or looked like it was looted it would fit in more.


what i really want to see is someone take that huge skull on his shoulder and replace the head with that.

>>52403989

If he beats up the shield it can be looted! or Green stuff over the runes!

>>52403989
It's a Space Wolf shield, but I think I get what you mean.

>>52404019
>>52404021

I think I'm going to add scrap fragments of armor, to make it look like he hammered some pig-iron onto it.

>>52402053
Nah, sounds like the manufacturer either bodged up the drying process or the bag got wet. If you want to give it a whirl, you could probably dry it back out in the oven if you set it for something low.

>>52403919
I personally prefer option 2 a lot. Main benefit of making partial assemblies is being able to get into every spot with easy on both the body and the arms, so attaching and then painting kind of defeats that purpose.

As for the glue, I use Revell glue whenever I can. It's great quality stuff and its kind of glue melts the pieces together, so they sure as hell won't fall off, unlike with regular super glue and similar stuff. Just make sure to glue the bare plastic together, so keep the surfaces you are going to apply the glue to unpainted.

>>52404068
Thank you very much! What do you recommend for keeping the gluing-surfaces clear while you paint the rest? Would simple scotch tape do the trick?

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>>52403319
>Any images of easy ways to base your minis?

Yes. Green base with flock glued on it (pic related) is about as lazy as it gets if you still want to call your model based.

>I saw an anon comment that white glue+sand works.

It does, but *please* paint. wash, and highlight your sand. Like water, it does not scale well at 28mm without being painted.

>I'm new to basing, so i dont even know if i need to sand the base flat first.

No, you don't. You could:

1). Flock it (lazy and cheap)
2). Paint it with textured paint (lazy, slightly more expensive if you buy the good stuff)
3). Add a nice big chunk of cork for your model to stand on heroically (will require some actual painting skill, but not that hard and not to pricey)
4). Glue on da sand, paint it, and decorate it (as involved and expensive as you want to make it)
5). Buy a custom base and paint it (lazy until you get to the painting part).

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>>52404131
>What do you recommend for keeping the gluing-surfaces clear while you paint the rest?

This stuff works pretty darn well.

>>52404131
Honestly, just don't paint onto them. I'm not sure how exactly Fire Warriors are put together, but if my Marines and Skitarii are anything to go by, just keeping the shoulder-surface and hand-connection unpainted is usually enough.

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lets play a game /wip/
i bought a kilo box of assorted IG bits and have a few i cannot identify for the life of me. lets see if we can collaboratively identify every bit in the tray!

>>52404213
Well, to make an educated guess, that huge-ass missile is probably from those tanks they have with huge-ass missiles.

>>52404213
some are from the scion command squad

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I know I'm not having the proper photo setup for nice pictures and I'm very shitty at painting but what are your thoughts and/or criticisms on this screamer I just finished?

>>52404185
I mentioned above that my main primer is a spray-can. Does the primer not interfere with the gluing?

>>52404302
Doesn't look shitty at all, anon. Main complaints would be that the attachment point of the tail is that visible and that the horns are a bit too flat. The blending is pretty nice, how did you do it?

>>52404320
Oh, sorry, overlooked that.
You can probably just scrap it off. Didn't have any trouble with that stuff so far.

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>>52404321
I've been doing light drybrushing for all my blending right now since I know I'm garbage at actually blending worth anything.
Unfortunately when I started my Tzeentch daemons and tried to blend through drybrushing for the first time I think I may have screwed something up. The only flamer I have done so far made me want to quite life, it looks way too dry imo and I don't know what happened to that that made it so screwed compared to the screamer.

>>52402965
thanks for the input, I'll be getting the paints and trying to replicate this paint scheme.

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>>52404420
I've been attempting to do some actual blending/transitions though, like on the fire on this blue horror's sword

>>52404420
>>52404561
I think those both look alright. Not breathtaking, but nothing to me ashamed of either. Paint just looks a tad bit thick, but I think it's fine, especially from a realistic distance, since people will rarely see them super up-close.

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Can anyone tell me what green this is, and what the highlight is? Doesn't need to be Citadel, can be P3 or Vallejo, too.

>>52404663
Alright. Other than thinning my paints even more so than I have been trying to before, any other tips you can provide for improvement with what you've seen?

>>52404302
>>52404561
paint job looks fine but not spectacular, certainly nothing to be emberassed about because it isnt shitty.

i would try adding some depth to those big horns

>>52404783
Hard to judge. None of my models really use the same colors or paints as yours and other than some more paint thinning, I really don't know what to aim for. Maybe just some more washing to get a bit more shading on your dudes.

>>52404783

Stop drybrushing, and start trying to actually use glazes and blends. You can't get better at it if you try and sidestep the issue with drybrushing.

>>52404783
something that would majorly improve your paint scheme is a proper base, not a fan of the bases you got going on rn

basing is not as easy as people like to make it seem, but with practice you can create a base that truly complements your model

if your models have a light paint scheme, then dont use a light base use a dark base and vise versa for dark models.

>>52404782
looks like it could be a really heavily shaded castellan green with straken green highlighting, maybe

>>52405057
Thanks man I appreciate it.

If my army has guys with blue robes would it be weird if my conscripts had dark green tunics instead of blue tunics? I'm the valhallan guy, basically tldr
>making conscripts, using converted cadians with headswap and greenstuff
>army uses blue robes, want to dry a green for conscripts

>want to work on models
>had a long beer and drank 2 beer while watching animu during dinner
>too tired now and can barely keep my eyes open
Uuuugh this sucks.

>>52405282
>had a long beer
Yeah, I this just proved to me that I should just stopbworking for today, jeez.

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>>52405276
did someone say valhallan guy

>>52404213
That's a hunter killer missile, and bits from Militarum Tempestus.

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>>52405319
>make post
>get memes
Every time

>>52404213

>servo-skull
>pistol arm (hot-shot laspistol)
>winged horse
>holstered lasgun
>radio (vox caster)
>aquila
>combat knife

Tempestus Scion kit. Also that thing in the top right next to the missle might be a hot-shot volley gun but I can't tell for sure.

The missile's from the Valkyrie kit; the one-use only S8 AP3 weapon that everybody replaces with rocket pods or twin-linked lascannons.

Gas tank/pouch and the hammer are from the Taurox kit I think.

Not sure about the bit below the pistol arm or just below the missle.

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>>52404782
Death World Forest with Athonian Camoshade

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Making work on my ba asaault squad, head is done but rest of body neess line highlights

Thoughts? I know its not the best and im new to BA color scheme

1/2

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>>52405489
2/2

Has anyone tried the Citadel Air paints?

>>52405479
Thanks man

>>52405489
>>52405511
stop posting this BA shit noone cares about ever single model in your squad.

I feel like I should finally pull the fucking trigger on an air brush. I can only imagine it makes things 1000% easier, especially for tanks and shit, but even shit like base coating can be done with the press of a fucking button

>>52405805
Thanks for letting us know.
>>52405511
>>52405489
(You)
Happy?

>>52405813

Sorry, I'm just frustrated because they're expensive, and even then I live in an efficiency so an air brush is probably a bad idea.

>>52405843
will post exactly what i posted in another thread
I got an airbrush because i wanted to really crank up my painting game and am the type of person were i want to get better after every single model i paint

I bought the master brush and compressor kit which ran me around 80$. couple of things

the master brush was shit, it clogged constantly and was poorly built. it would gunk up due to design tolerances and be a general headache to use. it eventually broke after i had to take it apart for the millionth time and thats when i decided to buy a real airbrush

I bought this airbrush https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-RK-1-Additional-Regulator/dp/B0078MEXX8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490565086&sr=8-1&keywords=badger+krome And have never regretted it, it is totally worth the investment and i still use my shitty compressor which works fine for me. the compressor only comes into play when you are applying really detailed coats, and even then if you are careful you can make it work just fine


just save yourself teh headache of finding out which homebrew thinners do and dont work and just by vallejo airbrush thinner and avoid thinning with water unless it is distilled, and make sure to religiously clean the brush after every spray to keep it from gunking

when you think your paint, get it to the consistency were it is thin but also sticks to the cup. This is the hardest part to figure out and you WILL NEED TRIAL AND ERROR.

I prefer to use 20 psi for general painting of miniatures and less than 10 for details, but i also use a .2 needles which may account for this.


any more questions?

hey guys I'm new, do you need to take a full platoon with death korps or can you just take an infantry squad? I'm thinking it's the former but I need confirmation, pretty sure it's the same for IG if that helps
I'm looking to get into kill team

>>52403833
>>52403933
are you from austria?

>>52404140
isn't actually the magazin called Johnny?

>>52405276
well I would say do what you want, but keep the blue (it's just awesome)

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>>52405905
>isn't actually the magazine called Johnny?

Johnny is the marine. The magazine speaks its words of wisdom to him, but only he can hear it. This has never stopped him from responding out loud, though.

The joke comes from a meme that grew out of the Cartoon Network TV show Ed, Edd, 'n' Eddy. It featured a character named Jonny who was always having one-sided conversations with his best friend Plank - just a face painted on a wooden board. The old Brother Craig model looks more like he's talking to his bolter magazine rather than reloading.

>>52405875

That's up there, but I've seen that one before. Ugh. There's really no shrinking around the price for something like this.

Does it come with good tips? It says it comes with two, but idk what they are.

What about the compressor? I don't have one.

What cleaner do I use? Just run thinner through it?

>>52406025
>>52405805
>I feel like I should finally pull the fucking trigger on an air brush. I can only imagine it makes things 1000% easier,

it doesnt really anon, give me like 8 minutes and ill explain why

stay tuned.

How do I git gud at making really large capes/robes out of greenstuff? Already checked some of the common guides online but I have my doubts about their applicability when making a robe the size of a Dreadnought.
What tools and items would I need to get that done decently and where would I get those? Already have sculpting tools and a knife. Anything else to look out for?

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More of the boys in blue. Too bad warp talons suck ass. Here's hoping they do ok in age of the emperor desu

>>52406025
>>52405805
> I can only imagine it makes things 1000% easier,
it doesnt. first off anon based on the reasons you want an airbrush i would highly recommend against you getting one, here is why

airbrushes do not necessarily make anything really that easier, sure base coating is faster and smoother, but you can achieve the same thing by buying the GW rattle cans of whatever base coat you need at a fraction of the cost of an airbrush and compressor

there are a lot of hidden costs i never realized when i started out, because you need the legit airbrush thinners it can rack up money pretty fast.

learning to airbrush is like learning to paint all over again, its nothing, i repeat, NOTHING like painting with a brush. you have to use whole new techniques to properly put down paint. You can achieve really bomb ass effects with an airbrush, but it takes a lot of skill to pull those off. you should buy an airbrush not to make things easier, but to increase the quality of your paintjobs by using a new painting effect

what bracket do you fall in anon

DO NOT BUY AN AIRBRUSH IF:
>you are not ready to invest atleast 200 dollars
>you want it to make painting easier
>you are not atleast an intermediate painter and cant paint beyond table top

DO BUY IF:
>you want an airbrush to increase you painting skill and try new techniques
>you are patient and are ready to make a million and one mistakes learning to use this equipment
>you have the money.

>>52406280
That looks like daylight clad not midnight clad.

Also, I love the smooth criminal leaner in the back

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>>52406374

yea what can I say I like my shit bright.

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>>52406424
To each their own. I prefer the deep blue because it makes the lightning stand out more.

>>52406280
>>52406424
Please paint your basing material.

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>>52406306

>what bracket do you fall in anon
>DO NOT BUY AN AIRBRUSH IF:
>>you are not ready to invest atleast 200 dollars
Hefty, but saveable
>>you want it to make painting easier
Got me there, though I would argue time saving. Perhaps the cans are a good idea.
>>you are not atleast an intermediate painter and cant paint beyond table top
I'd like to think that I'm at least a good painter. I've posted here before. Pic related.

>DO BUY IF:
>>you want an airbrush to increase you painting skill and try new techniques
Always.
>>you are patient and are ready to make a million and one mistakes learning to use this equipment
That is to be expected
>>you have the money.
I can save.

Maybe it's best to wait then. I have a birthday coming in a few months, so many I'll get a few bucks in the right direction then. Thanks.

As for the cans, are they good? I've literally only used chaos black as a primer (probably not the best idea), so I have no idea. I didn't even know GW had other colored sprays. How do they compare to Army Painter? I've seen those, but was always kind of leery.

>>52406587
i have seen a lot of their sprays at my LGS, but only really the main ones such as caliban green and mephiston red.

I know for a fact that dave from mini wargaming painted a large portion of his khorne army with the cans and they came out pretty good, as with all rattle cans its more about moderation than anything.

I liked chaos black but it fucking frustrated me to no end that abbadon black had a different finish to it so you could not paint the two together.

>>52406587
>I'm at least a good painter
>Pic related
heh

>>52406662

Yea, I noticed that, too, though I almost always painted over it anyway. Like the hair above. The model was primed with the spray then I painted over with abbadon before moving up (what little up there was anyway).

On a similar note, if I used the rattle cans, would I have to prime the model first? What about models with variance to them like wyches where they have a mix of armor and skin?

>>52406809
Not sure what you're trying to imply here.

>>52406814
last thing before hitting the sack

you should always prime your models, the only time i have not primed models is for very specific airbrush effects

always prime your models

>>52406837
>and by the way, my reading comprehension is abysmal
heh

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>>52406851

Phrased that wrong I suppose. The rattle cans are not usable as a primer then?

>>52406854
For (you)

>>52403933
>>52403833
Vic lamb female arms on tradition scaled minis? That actually look like it will work out ok. good luck anon!

>>52402294
I'm really digging this translucent red. Glowing eyes from his psychic might would be dope imo.

I want to make some winter scenery, since I'm playing Finland in Bolt Action. Would taking actual branches and breaking off bits, then gluing them to a base work as trees that have lost all their leaves? Obviously I'll put snow flock on the ground.

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>>52405489
Sorry I don't have a WIP picture; but when I'm painting my guys, I go with a bright orange. I use the citadel paints, the color I use is fire dragon bright. I've also seen folks use wild rider red; but it looks too pink for my taste.

>>52403172
it's called Reboot and it is a little slice of OLD CGI cartooning, sort of like Tron if it were a saturday morning cartoon, fun world, cool villains, poorly aged animation, what more you ask for?

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>>52402121
I finished my Nurgle plague drone bases, and I am going to work on finishing up my plaguebearers

I've recently been inspired by that new Zero Dawn game for ideas on my necron army, what would be a good source on robot animal bits that fit that sized kit

>>52406280
>>52406424
Nightlords with loyalist halos, eagles, and purity seals?

>>52407315

Night Lords loot shit all the time to replace their broken shit. If you go by the books, the main character has a Bangle sword and an aquila on his chest, though he makes sure to break it whenever he gets a new one.

>>52407395
Yeah man but you could at least take off the purity seals

Gimme something to listen while painting.

Eurobeat and fine detailing arent a good match.

>>52404213
The tubing with the gauges is definetely the flamer or plasma tube from Sentinel walker

>>52407532

They're not my models.

Also, what if they're impurity seals with little Batman symbols on the wax and human skin parchment?

>>52407557
https://youtu.be/QGiBU6pNUYM

>>52407557
I listen to this series while I paint, it's good fun.

https://youtu.be/HQb9x-QmmO4

>>52407557
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x50zuWZMYEM

>>52407604
*tips*

>>52407636
You ok there champ? Too much to drink?

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I got my yncarne in the mail today and I was so excited. I bought the yncarne alone as I did not think I would use the other two models, but that meant there were no instructions on how to build her. It was terrible because all the wisps look alike. But I got her together and decided to put a base coat on her. You can see my general color scheme for her. Her hair will be white with that jade in the recesses, the armor will be purple. I need to decide if I am going to use gold or try non-metal metalics for all the gold on her armor. The spirit spiral is a rainbow of fluorescent colors that go with my harlequins. Can't wait to finish her when I get home tomorrow.

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Not done yet but my Ixion Hale and Deathwatch Librarian are going places.

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>>52407761
Show her ass.

>>52407244
That orange is pretty goddamn stark, anon.

>>52407848
Why do Deathwatch helmets look like normal helmets with the face smooshed in?

>>52408133
because deathwatch are the little yappy pugs of space marines

>>52408059
>her

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It's been years since I modeled, but my current Pathfinder game has given me an excuse to model a few Plague monks to use as Ratfolk. I honestly haven't done much beside change the angle of the arms and a few weapon adjustments to the pictured model, but I think it looks pretty nice.

BONUS

Had the parts to build the little sister.

>>52408171
She is referred either as "it" or "her" in books, its mostly feminine.
>captcha 5969 stop

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>>52408178
No bully pls.

Also can we talk about how broken a Ratfolk Shadow Assassin is? God damn that class never stops.

>>52407186
Thank you, I was planning on doing the glowing blue like in the GW model, but I might just hand brush it as my airbrush skills boil down to turning models red.

Rest of the legions eyes will be green I think. What's the formula for them? Mithril silver and the green gemstone paint? Does that work better than just painting them?

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>>52407557
Can't go wrong with the Ace Combat soundtrack

https://youtu.be/80XAJKqRU9k

I'm finding conflicting information elsehwere- 1/16"x1/32" or 1/8"x1/16" for magnetizing Tau Crisis Suits?

>>52408190
It's a total mess anon. Watch these.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ISB7aJniyc&index=6&list=PLbzagzIzEMpMcdxopoZzVcluuSDOZ05NI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vp_vdo0AFhI

>Also can we talk about how broken a Ratfolk Shadow Assassin is?
No, because this is /wip/ but
>non-caster
>broken

>>52408190
T H I N

Y O U R

P A I N T S

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Getting my Moonclan Grots up to a tabletop standard; working on details now.

Why is it that blue-skinned orruks with dark blue armor would probably look good, but green-skinned orruks with dark green armor would look odd?

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>>52408437
>night gobbo spears on round bases

what the fuck happened fantasy?

>>52408473
It's dead, Jim. We AoS now.

But don't throw your square bases out just yet, you might need them for 40k soon.

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>start working on wyches
>each box comes with 1 of each special weapon
>no surprise
>check ebay for bits
>selling wych special weapons
>doesnt include hydra gauntlets
>theyre in a different lot with basic weapons
>mfw

I just want to have a full set of magnetized weapons

>>52406306
>intermediate painter
>beyond table top
You faggots are hilarious

>>52406507
no
there is no fucking way painted rocks look better than actual real rocks

>>52407848
Why does that bald dude have such a giant head. Look at it compared to the marine who is wearing a helmet, which contains his head

>>52408616
you would be wrong.

>>52408437
not even close to TTS i'm afraid. keep posting your progress

>decide to focus on painting and stop buying shit for a while
>m8 tells me that he and some other fellas are making big order form mr ching-chong
>check prices
>mega-dread is almost 10$ cheaper than ork trukk
>order 2 of them, and few more ork stuff

just fuck my life

>>52408711
praise chinaman

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Talking China, I just ordered one of these light boxes for £5.50 compared to like treble from a UK seller.

Not massive at 9"/22cm3, comes with a strip of USB powered LEDs in the top to eliminate shadows. Some good results posted on the Oldhammer page though.

>>52408885
Any link to order these. I kinda want one!

>>52408944

Postage is like 4-8 weeks from a Chinese seller I must add, though I got a tracking number from DHL very quickly.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Light-Room-Photo-Studio-Photography-Lighting-Tent-Kit-Backdrop-Mini-Box-NEW-/332151184199?

Got this one, the most popular seller was only 3p more but this guy seems to have better feedback.

>>52408975
Thanks my dude.

>>52408885
>>52408944
>ordering products from across the world so you can better show off plastic army men on a Sénégalais flower-arranging forum

>>52408569
The life of a Chaos Termie lover.
>Datasheet allows you to choose from 3 types of combi-weapons to any termie, claws, fists, 4 types of power weapons.
>Box has either 1 bit of each at most, half of them have none.

>>52408992

People with 5mb shakycam images on /wip/ should be banned desu.

Actually I'm thinking of starting a little blog I can spam relentlessly on the Facebook group pages that lap this stuff up.

What's the best airbrushable primer in your opinion?

>>52409185
vallejo surface primer

Its a real primer, not just a paint.

Everyone seems to use it, I do too, but I do find it not the easiest to use, clogs the brush quite easily and is hard to clean out of the brush.

Still recommend

>>52409201
Their black primer is good, their grey primer clogs my airbrush up something awful and the white one has the same downside as all light coloured airbrush paints (and regular paints) in that it dries extremely quickly and so clogs up the brush. I had a little success mixing the black and white primers to make a grey, but I haven't used it in a long session yet.

>>52409221
Interesting you say that - I use the grey.

I'll try thinning it next time.

>>52403528
smallest you've got, you'll be magnetising wrists a lot of the time.

>>52402294
Looks epic

>>52404213
servo-skull, arm, gun, banner tops, knife, backpack are all scion parts
the jerry can and grenade+skull is from the ogryn
the lights and tubes+valves are from the sentinel kit
the hotshot volley gun is from the taurox
hammer might be as well, but it might be from the chimera/basilisk
the missile is from.. the valkyrie I think

the only thing I'm not sure of is the bit between the wrapped up gun and the scion chainsaw/syringe arm

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This is my third model and the second model which I've tried edge highlighting. Any tips? How does it look?

>>52409405

Top effort for a third miniature, I've been painting years and only just started properly blending and that.

You've clearly got skills and want to learn so this is hypercritical of me; the effect looks decent on the ends of the gloves, but looks exaggerated on the square pads on the gloves and is actually very visually attracting. Really you want the face to be the focal point, so maybe in future just do one edge or just the corners rather than picking out the whole squares. It might just be the light off the metallics but the helmet could do with a little more definition.

I'd probably give him a light wash too just to help blend the whole piece together, but I'm a recovering Agrax addict.

>>52409455

Base wise too, I'm not 100% on the grey sand and yellow ooze being so similar to the miniature.

Like I say though, this is a nice model, just being over-exacting.

>>52409480
The base being similar to the miniature is intentional and has to do with my army's fluff. Thanks for the feedback though! I'll keep what you've said in mind going forward.

>>52403561
god, that looks amazing

>>52409544
does it...?

>>52409228
If you thin primer, you make it weak. Up your pressure instead.

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Hit all three with purity seal after a gloss spray was dried for an hour.

Fuck purity seal.

>>52409691
Those look like alright models. It's a shame the pictures have about two pixels each.

>>52409691

I'm not brave enough to varnish, one hour doesn't seem like a lot to me though.

Does the static grass go weird with the spray?

>>52409691
>xenos weapons
>on the emperors own astartes

GW dropped the ball.

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>>52409788
=O

>>52409761
It can, but nomrally doesn't.

>>52409788
>Xenophase Blade

Welcome to the Deathwatch

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We dem c h e c k e r b o i s

>>52406935
no, the paint cans from gw are not primer, you still need to prime the models

>>52407274
i dig it, looks like a decayed forest.

>>52403561
Martyr to the kingdom of the damned!

>>52406935

GW's spray paint for undercoats is not an actual primer. Primer actually "tooths" into the material underneath to give a proper surface for future paints.

>>52409865
..Wait, Chaos Black isn't a primer?

>>52409865

It still gives you a solid undercoat to paint over, but I'd recommend several cheaper alternatives that probably do a better job.

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>>52409876

No, >>52409880 it'll still do a job but it's GW being cheap.

Their glues used to be expensive enough in a plastic bottle, I can't believe they're repackaging Poundshop superglue tubes though, they're awful to work with.

Question for the thread / kitbashers; what's the best way of getting single parts / bits to work with when you're trying to make a custom job?

As I've been thinking of kitbashing together a new model for my D&D character, who is (currently) an incubus sorcerer after reincarnation happened. Also related. what's a good choice for a shirtless humanoid torso piece to use as a baseline? As I've got one or two ideas but nothing's really stood out as being "the one"

>>52409906
Khorne Bloodreavers maybe?

>>52409906
there are plenty of bits sites that allow you to buy individual bits from basically any box set you can think of

you end up spending a little more than buying in bulk per bit, but if you are looking to only convert a single model i would look into it

here is an example, they sometimes sell things on ebay and have a pretty good rating there
http://hoardobits.com/cgi/hob/shop.pl?cat1=Bits&cat2=Warhammer%2040k

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get multiple thin sleeps lil' dunc

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Poison huffing.
Not even once.

Terminator still needs a replacement tabard. Dread lacks all the green stuff work from it.

>>52409822
Checker'd.

>>52405598
>telling people to not post their wip in a wip thread

What does it meen?

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>>52410221
I'm confused. Are these marines, chaos marines or orks?

>>52410314
My wild guess is Death Guard.

>>52408437
those are some great bases, anon. the skin... not so much. keep at it, though!

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does tg think it would be possible to convert these to normal space marine flamers?

I cant resist the temptation of buying them since they are on sale for around 3 dollars

thoughts?

>>52411374
yea you can snip back the mouth or keep them beakies and use a thin layer of green stuff to cover the wee runes and fill the indent

>>52411374
i mean i guess you could. why would you, though?
what's the point, anon? just buy regular flamers

>>52411408
ya but i could get these for a steal

why buy a single flamer for 3 dollar when i could by ten for the same amount?

>>52411374
Dude, just ask any local TS player if you can have his spares. I've got about 20 sitting around I don't need, because fuck healing flamers.

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>>52408616
>there is no fucking way painted rocks look better than actual real rocks

You're putting unpainted rocks on painted miniatures. There's a reason we paint silver instead of gluing aluminum foil to the model.

>>52409324
hammer is from the baneblade/shadowsword kit

>>52408885
>Some good results posted on the Oldhammer page though.
Link? I'm kind of tempted to shell out the 6 or 7 bucks for one of these. The lighting in my painting room is absolutely terrible.

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Red or blue for the power weapons? I tend to like blue more, but I feel it might be too much with all the other blue stuff.

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>>52411705
see
>>52408975

For the post, if you join The Oldhammer Community group on Facebook.

book.com/groups/400319303383363/permalink/1311438542271430/

Guy posted this, obviously not Oldhammer but it looks decent.

>>52410221
Is that a Grave Warden? Cool

>>52408190
Catfolk ninja is worse but yes.

>>52405877
nah bro im from kansas
>>52407074
i want to try the male arms just to see if theyll fit. The best par tis that victoria sells empty hand sets, so you can plug in plasmas, flame throwers, etc.

>>52408437
Love the bases.
imo the spear tips are too bright for Goblins.

>>52408178
>don't talk to me or my son again.

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>>52411806
Yes.

>>52406280
>>52406424
Nice models. Bases look like garbage tho.

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My waagh all stars with orcs such as Floyd waaghweather and Morchamed Ali. Waiting on new troll to arrive and need to start on varag

Right now I'm waiting for the Skydorfs to drop so I can pick up one of their air ships and convert it into a count-as Valkryie for my Inquisitor

>>52410221
argh
drill yer barrels, ya scurvy dog

>>52412612

Why not Waaaagh-ll stars?

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Does anyone know which GW colors I would need to get that shade of green? Would also appreciate knowing the lens color. Thanks

>>52408437
>that lavender
oh anon...

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>>52401943
>*right yellow edition
hey johnny! look! it's your old pal, com officer orinoco!

>>52409822
nice base!

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>>52413254
They'll propably put the full paint scheme in a WD after the release.

But if you're looking for something similar (and in my opinion even better looking) you might want to check this guy's recipe:
https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/222864.page

Basicaly:
1. Vallejo Green Grey
2. Wash with a 50/50 mix of Agrax Earthshade and Seraphin Sepia
3. highlight with Green Grey again (HEAVILY watered down)
4. add some Ushabti Bone (or some bone white) to the Green Grey and do edges

As for the lenses you can propably make that with mephiston red, followed by a wash of agrax, then highlighted with mephiston again, then add some white to the red and Voila.

Help me, tg. I have so much bare plastic its not even funny and I keep wanting to glue instead of paint.

Encourage me!

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I think he turned out reasonably well. I have some touch ups here and there but overall satisfied. I drybrushed his black highlights before I did anything else compared to edging at the end and I think I actually prefer the more subtle look.

I'd like to do a scorched earth effect on his base but am not sure exactly how.

>>52413639
Hide away all the other stuff and pick one squad to focus on. Whatever excites you most. Finish it and game with it and you'll want to do it again.

>>52413774
Pretty decent anon, but you should shade harder. The icon on the belt, the skull on the chest and the metals all look very flat

>>52413639
Play some games and feel shame when you face an opponent with a fully painted army :^)

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Starting a new side project. Terminator inquisitor. I need to find a nice right handed storm bolter for him.

>>52413825
Yeah, you know what I need to hit those brass bits with a hilight too.

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>>52413827
My stuff is actually the best painted in my FLGS. I just have a lot of stuff left to paint.

>>52413254

REEEE Death Guard when?

You can't wet my dick in late March and then not say another goddamn thing about it... nothing in April... May? PLEASE

>>52413254
Duncan will be doing a video on it hopefully.

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Finished 4 Death Guard on the weekend. What do you guys think?

>>52414185

They're very nice.

Peeersonally not a fan of the sloppy diarrhea base so many of them seem to get but the paint job is pretty great.

>>52414185
do they have IBS or something?

>>52412612
models look awesome,basing looks terrible

way too flat, especially if they are standing in some mud or swamp

get some level in there

Holy shit I forgot how terrible Deldar mold lines are. They run right through the middle of the armor INCLUDING SPIKES

>>52414185
Bit thicc and the eyes need shading and highlights, but pretty good

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>>52414309
...are you mental or something? Those bases are clearly not painted at all. They have literally no paint on them except for some splatters from earlier, he didn't even start painting them. Did you honestly think they were finished?

Are you ok? I think I'm genuinely concerned now.

>>52414512
I think he meant to link to >>52414185

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>>52413254
This. EXCEPT don't use Loren Forest.

Use Death World Forest instead, because it's lighter, and its a base paint so stronger pigment and thicker.

If you need an extreme highlight, mix one of the two greens with a pale colour like ushabti bone, or Rakarth flesh.

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Is this Nurgly enough? Didn't want to go with a bloated sack of shit. Thinking of painting him with a pale, sickly skin and Death Guard armour.

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>>52414512
>>52414538

ayyy

well I'm not wrong am I?

anway meant for >>52414185

>>52414569
I wouldn't say that the head by itself makes it obviously Nurgle, but the scheme might help.

>>52414586
oh sorry, I actually agree with you on this one

>>52414568
Sorry let me start over. do use Loren, but Dont use castellan green. Because death world forest is a superior base paint.

Do this. 1 death world forest, 2 wash of choice (agrax, flesh shade, or that green-brown one), then 3 Loren forest highlight, 4 then an extreme highlight of either green with a pale colour at 50/50.

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Here is some progress on my Salamanders.

>>52414569
Too many chaos undivided stars on him. Scrape them off if you can.

>>52414691
>chaos model has too many chaos stars

>>52414746
>nurgle model has too many chaos undivided stars

>>52414746
> nurgle miniature has heaps of chaos undivided symbols.

Would a ultramarine hero have 3 big Aquilas all over his armour, but no U symbols, or anything indentifying him as an ultramarine rather than an Astartes.

>>52414309
The idea was a chemical-weapon soaked muddy trench, being very typical of Death Guard fluff. But I ran out of basing slop, so I had to be sparing. I'll buy some more and build height

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>>52414818
>>52414826
>chaos star is an undivided only symbol
>chaos undivided is a thing in the first place

Also, here's an Ultra with 4 aquilas and no 4 U.

>>52414668
Nice! Very creative colour scheme.

>>52414988
That's not an ultramarine hero that's the generic Sternguard sergeant in UM colours. Try again with Calgar or an actual UM model.

If were talking about an anon converting his own Nurgle DP. He should remove at least one of the several chaos undivided stars and maybe put a nurgle freehand symbol or greenstuff a trio of boils or holes.

Try again!

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>>52415115
>If were talking about an anon converting his own Nurgle DP, he should-

He should do what he wants, and you should fuck off.

>>52415115
>generic DP model
>must be compared to a special character

I would understand your autism if we were talking about greater daemons, but a generic "this model can be dedicated to any god" model... Do you get all spergy when someone doesn't put ultra symbols on their blue tactical marines?

>>52415115
Take your meds.

>>52413639
Make a schedule.
Setting goals helps a lot.

>>52413639
>i dont enjoy painting
>how do i paint!?!?!?

>>52414185
The power pack on the front and the mk III helmet look really weird, otherwise great work.

>>52412403
Exhaust nipples are a bit creepy.

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>>52415844
That's what the official models have as well, to spew out toxic fumes on the enemy.

>>52411714
i'd say blue tough

So will using multiple coats of Testor's Matte Laquer provide the same protection as a gloss coat? Something I've always bee curious about since I've never had any issues doing that in the past over the gloss lacker/then dull coat method.

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Emprah Protects

>>52416437
*lacquer
Time to kms

>>52412403
Sweet, I like it. What bitz did you use on his torso?

I swear I've replied to you on /HHG/ or /WIP/, you were out of bits or something. Cool to see it finished.

>>52416437
>gloss lacker/then dull coat method.
this is a meme and it needs to die

>>52409880
>>52409901
So what companies primers do we use?...

>>52417397
>spoonfeed me!

>>52417431
>Thread for painting advice
>Is outraged someone asks for painting advice
0 to retarded at the speed of fast.

>>52417234
So then I suppose just thin layers of matte lacquer is fine, thank you!

>>52417700
yes, don't listen to the mom science here on /fit/. gloss varnish is just matte varnish with an extra ingredient to make it glossy-- other than that they are chemically identical, at least within the same brand
google it if you don't believe me
>>52417553
even if you're selfish enough to only think of yourself, why not just google your stupid question before asking here? would be much quicker

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>>52417964
>>52417700
by /fit/ i meant /tg/

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>>52417431
>>52417964

Fucking arsehole.

If you're a Brit, this specific stuff is decent and cheap. It comes out fast though.

>>52418311
nice car primer bud, great way to kill detail

>>52418311
Can vouch for this. Used it loads, is cheap and covers nicely. Isnt too thick either.

>>52418333

It doesn't though mate, that's why I'm telling someone about it on the painting thread of the traditional gaming board of a Fijian threadworking forum.

It's not rocket science.

>>52418420
if he just googled it himself he could find a whole slew of primers depending on his location, price range and pick any colour he wanted
why spoonfeed? it's shit for everyone involved

>>52418440

Dense fuckwits like you are the reason forums are full of old posts with "hey guys [specific issue]" followed by "edit: Don't worry guys I fixed it".

It's the reason I wrote a little writeup on Wilko stripper last thread.

>>52418513
oh you're from reddit, i was wondering why you're so much of a faggot

>>52418513
Give a man a fish or teach him to fish on his own. Up to you, buddy boy.

>>52418540

Unfortunately I've probably been here longer than you, when was the Dial Soap spam thing happening?

I'm just doing my little bit to make /wip/ decent.

>>52418622
i've been here since 2009, and i used to ask stupid questions too, and you know what happened? i learned how to find shit out on my own without needlessly bothering people

Speaking of primer. I recently got Gesso from a hobby store, though its white. How is the white? I've heard the colors act differently?

Also, will I be ok with white primer for dark eldar?

>>52418656
>Also, will I be ok with white primer for dark eldar?
primer doesn't make as much of a difference as people will say on here, just do a light basecoat in whatever colour you need as a base

>>52418540
>t. Pleb

People like you are the problem with this place now. Acting the cunt for no reason.

>>52418708
>>52418540

Cheer up pal, it might never happen.

>>52418683
>primer doesn't make as much of a difference as people will say on here
It makes a huge difference on metal models.
Don't spread misinformation.

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Magnus' skin basecoated using khorne red. Thinking a dry brush of Mephiston red next to red it up a bit and then a carrabourg crimson wash. Think mephiston would work or should I use a different red?

>>52418708
>I have nothing of value to add, best call him Reddit!!!

why does everyone in these threads get so triggered over image sizes? do you all have a data cap or something?

>>52418885
It's Australians mainly, because they have dial up connections from 1998.

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>>52418767
Flipper upright

>>52418920
Ffs

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>>52418920
The gods of chaos find such posts amusing

>>52418885
>everyone
It's only like 2 or 3 whiny Aussie phoneposters.

>>52418885
people browsing from phones probably do.
Generally speaking it's kind of rude to waste the bandwidth somebody else pays for with uncropped photos of unfinished models.
In this day and age, where people take everything for granted, it seems to be hard to understand for people though.

>>52418885

Because even on fibre optic I can't be arsed with clicking on a blurry, poorly lit image the size of an mp3 track.

Besides, it's self-fulfilling. You'll get more advice the more clear and accessible you make your image.

>>52418920
>masking unpainted areas
y tho

>>52419037
Don't want unecesary paint on them, also essentially just practising taping, only just bought it
Anyone tips on how to build up to a redder red

>>52418683

Alright, cool. I figured it would be fine for the flesh, but I'm going with a dark green armor almost like Dangles. I wasn't sure how much the white would matter.

>>52418744

How so? I'm legitimately curious. My main army is Sisters, so it's relevant. Should I not use Gesso?

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Hi.After initially posting my first painted model,I was told to reapply my base colors after I used shades.Here it is.

>>52419904
Thin your paints is a meme but it's a meme for a reason.

>>52414185
This is how you weather. You didn't just slap mud on them willy-nilly, it looks like they've trudged through it and splashed it up on their legs. Very good, anon.

>>52409850
I'm trying to decide if you're misquoting Slayer or intentionally changing the line to be more 40k. Either way cool

>>52409691
hit em again with Testor's dullcote. Should fuck that shine right off

>>52419095
>How so? I'm legitimately curious.
The main reason to use primer is to make the paint stick to the models.
That is why the whole 'GW sprays are not primers' thing comes up every so often. There is a difference between a primer and a spray paint.
A primer is formulated to bond with whatever you spray it on. On plastic it's basically a chemical weld via the solvents and on metal it provides a considerably better adherence to the model.
The primercoat is a surface on which the paint can stick better than on bare plastic or metal too. Usually it's a very matte color, i.e. has a rough surface.
Depending on the primer and school of thought some people are content to just do a light dusting, while others use the primer as the first coat of color for ease of painting on army projects that have a big number of models.

If you try to paint a metal model without primer the paint will just rub off on the prominent parts. Similarly a paintcoat on a plastic model is much more likely to be damaged without it, though slightly less so than on a metal piece.

Priming is essential for miniature painting, especially those that you expect to handle a lot like gaming pieces.

To make sure the paint stays on your models you should always clean your models with some kind of detergent (dishsoap) to get rid of mold release agents (usually mainly a thing for metal and resin, on plastic you might want to consider this if you handled the model a lot), prime and varnish after painting your model.
On display pieces you might want to forgo the varnishing, because some varnishes to change the appearance of colors and change the shine of metallic paints or inks for example, and you usually don't handle them a lot anymore..

>>52417964
Christ I just imagined /fit/ arguing about using varnish on themselves.

>>52421051
So wait, can you prime with GW sprays?

>>52419093
>build up to a redder red

More thin layers of red?

>>52421316
>>52421051
>GW sprays are not primers
I'd advise against it.
Been a while since I bought theirs though.

>>52421316

You can but it's going to be a shitty primer job.

>>52421316
Been using their Corax White spray for ages and never had any problems at all with it.

>>52421527
Im not so sure about corax, been using their chaos black for a while but for my tzeentch dudes i wanted brighter tones so i used corax white

And now the paint is rubbing of of them at the edges, really infuriating stuff

>>52422192
Well dumb faggots like >>52421527 are basically saying you're a liar so what can you do.