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/wipg/ WIP General Thread

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Work in progress: painting, sculpting, converting general

Thin Your Paints, Master Jedi Edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw [Embed]

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM [Embed]

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU [Embed]

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo [Embed]
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint - the ellipses is part of the link
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>In the face of death, I shall have no remorse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_ZgyNoHtjw [Embed]

Previous threads:
>>52329482
>>52280906
>>52258015
>>52133721
>>52113479
>>
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Does anyone know how this guy in pic related made the choppa for his boss? It's clearly the Brute's Gore-Choppa sliced, but I'm not sure where, or what's attaching everything.
>>
Best way to highlight bright metallic gold, WIP?
>>
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Started painting fairly recently. Bought some washed up DC, took of their packs to replace with jump packs. The models were in pretty bad condition when I got them, so I figured they make good practice models. What are some tips y'all have for improvement here?
>>
>>52350056
Not terrible. I think the color scheme is kind of cool. Highlights could be thinner and thin ye paints, just git a little bit on ye brush
>>
>>52349980
make the cuts, use greenstuff/plastic cement .. your can carefully "smooth" the melted plastic if you use the cement and wait a few secs
>>
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>>52350056
I just realized how big that is.
Specifically trying to do a bone/white death company for lamenters.
>>
>>52350073
No, I don't mean how to put it together, I mean what parts are being used. Besides the gore-choppa--what's the hand/hilt from?

Is it from the Megaboss itself? I'll go check mine
>>
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Re-dooting
>>
>>52350082
It looks like it is. It seems the gore-choppa's been cut right where the first hand is, and attached right to it. Interesting.
>>
>>52349956
Anyone have any suggestions on what brushes to buy? Shell out for gw stuff? My brushes are all fucked and I want to get back into painting
>>
>>52350110
pretty cool but theres no dootage. When you give them the doots I expect the doot to be so powerful it crashes the site. What colours did you use for the clothing?
>>
>>52350130
i´m back after years, too, and for starters i got the "daVinci NOVA-Synthetics - Hobby & Craft" set : it got a 1570, 3/0, 0+ ,2 and a size 4 in it. was about 18 euros - and can´t complain so far
>>
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I am about to venture into the world of greenstuff, as I have put it off for as long as I can. Does anyone have any general tips?

Also, if anyone has any specific tips for the following I'd appreciate it.

I have a lot of sprue/B@C parts, mainly bolters and such to use as a base.

Making a grav gun for biker marines

Making a librarian biker, specifically the psychic hood on a model so it doesn't look like garbage

Making a chaplain biker, I am unsure what to do here, I might just chop the head off and put the skull helmet on the biker body and sculpt some chaplain-y stuff on it.

Changing the proportions of a centurion as in the following: http://masteroftheforge.com/centurion-tutorial/
I think it is pretty clear but if there is anything a noob will mistake, I'd appreciate a tip.

Filling in gaps in vehicles, rhinos and land raiders specifically

General imperial fist logos sculpted on marines.

I know it's a long list, I've put it off as long as I could. I am a noob, but I try until the models (at least painting so far, I haven't sculpted or based yet) look "good".

For reference, I am the turd who keeps posting the IF tacticals. The one someone thought were angry marines.

Pic semi-related
>>
>>52350404
go to Dakkadakka - they got a whole forum for just this
>>
>>52350452
I haven't heard of that, but I will google it and do just that. Do I need an account?
>>
>>52350484
no, only if you wonna post
>>
>>52350684
I posted what I said before, and I am searching around atm
>>
>>52350404
Everytime I see an centurion I think of Maernus Calgar and wonder why didn't them make him one
>>
>>52350757
I'm more of an IF fan, but yes I know what you mean. Now that you bring it up you are right.
>>
>>52350757
Yeah, in the cover of ultramarines codex he looked literally like one
>>
>>52350130
I really like the Army Painter set. Pretty much my go to brushes for most work.
>>
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Took a better pic of these. My goal was to try speeding up my squad painting as I'm slow as fuck so I painted properly the main features like the helmets, banner and power weapon and rushed the rest a bit, not caring too much about precision or smoothness.

Overall I think they took around 30 hours, from box to pic. 7-8 hours were just for the banner, a bit too much, but I am not specially proficient at freehands yet.

I also commited a major fuckup using liquid mask which took around 3 hours to remove and fix. Basically I applied the mask and let it on for over two days, so it kind of fused with the paint under it and I had to scrape it all off.

If you don't count the banner and the fuckup, that's more or less 2 hours per model, I think it's ok, but could be faster.
>>
>>52350968
not bad
>>
>>52351051
>52351051
>not bad

dont be a cunt.
>>
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>>52351108
Can I get some hot takes and opinions on either of these color schemes? Photoshopped from someone elses' obviously
>>
>>52351063
ok, they are awesome
>>
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>>52350968
>>
>>52350968
Wonderful work
>>
>>52351108
>>52351117
Definitely purple. It looks rad and Orks have enough green already.
>>
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Finally got to finish my Baal Pred. Happy with it seeing as it's my first vehicle, won't dry brush next time and will just layer it as I didn't find the results all that great. 100% magnetized as well.
>>
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>>52349956
Got a little more work done on the bust last weekend, few more details and should be good to go, wish I had glued in the horns earlier, might have a bit of gap to deal with.
>>
>>52351117
Purple definitely. It's hella' rad!
>>
>>52351296
Fantastic job! I'm looking forward to seeing the creepy goat eyes.
>>
>>52350110
Really cool looking fellas you got there!
>>
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Re-posting my Throgg-proxy Daemon Prince. I need some suggestion how to go about making him look more daemonic. Any suggestions and ideas how I can accomplish this are highly welcome!
>>
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>>52351456
Here's a side view of him. Trying for a hunchbacked look.
>>
>>52351456
That neck is outrageously THICC
>>
>>52351260
Looks great, anon.
>>
>>52351492
Minotaurs like hitting the gym.
>>
>>52350968
acceptable for friendly tabletop but Id have to mark down in a tournament setting
>>
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>>52350404
Here is a step by step tutorial on turning a generic skull into a chaplain helmet. This might be a good way to learn a little technique without diving into sculpting from scratch. Just be sure the check he scale of the skull before you start.

http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2010/11/chaplain-skull-helmet-conversion.html
>>
>>52351605
What sort of bonkers standards do you have if that is merely acceptable tabletop-standard?
>>
>>52351624
Autistic shitposting standards, presumably
>>
>>52351296
That's what I call GOAT job
>>
>>52351611
>from the warp

Whatever happened to that guy?
>>
>>52351710
He went home?
>>
>>52351624
In my area a paint job of mostly one solid color and some highlighting just doesnt cut it
He wouldnt be allowed to field it at my local
>>
>>52351624
Not him, but calling good/great models "tabletop standard" is one of the dank new memes in this general.
>>
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>>52351763
You're clearly a troll as the models have a fair bit more colours than just one. Would your local also show the door to people who went with the generic Chaos Warriors-paintwork?
>>
>>52351763
I'm curious, show us your local standard.
>>
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Just finished this weirdiboy. Any tips? Plz go easy only just starting.
>>
>>52351763
So basically no 40k allowed in your area? :^)
>>
>>52351922
I'll bite.

Thin your paints.

Look up Duncan tutorials.
>>
>>52351936
>projecting your own lack of skill on everyone else this hard
>>
>>52351710
he stopped caring about the hobby, started caring more about his family.
>>
>>52352069
Yikes.
>>
>>52351624
>>52351899
>>52351936
>>52351906
>actually replying to this blatant troll
>>
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Hey guys, been busy with commissions but got some time to work on my stuff. Tried my hand at making a conscript. I shaved off the shoulders and the ankle guards so he only has his flak vest, and I gave him a shitty cloth scarf thing to make him more dynamic. Waiting for my heads to come in, the kolony winter militia head.
He's basically gonna look like some peasant with a gun and flak vest and a shitty leather gas mask.
How'd I do with the greenstuff and filing?
>>
>>52352210
>troll
>>52351906
Well heres my eldar compaired to his. Notice how I actually paint the details instead of overspraying one solid color and highlighting? Also doing so on just the plain out of the box models is really just lazy
>>
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>>52352321
Forgot pic
>>
>>52352210
Some baits you just gotta take.
>>
>>52352336
Your point is invalid, you literally paint clowns.
>>
>>52353041
Not an argument.
>>
>>52352336
>Mold Lines.

If you ever brought that army to where I play the owner would stomp your minis and ban you from the shop after making you clean up all the broken pieces from the floor.
>>
>>52350022
Silver + gold highlight, ink the whole thing with brown, go over the highlights again with regular gold.

It's the fakers way of blending, the inked gold will be darkest, silver gold will be medium, regular gold will be brightest. Adding silver gold in tiny little pointy bits will finish it off.
>>
testor's alternative? Become too much of a pain to get hold of.
>>
>>52353588
Where?
>>
>>52353664
If you can't see that god awful line on the gun and along the legs then you really need to quit this hobby. Taking a second look now I can't believe I missed out smudgy your paint is. Thin it or quit it.
>>
Any general tips for freehand? I feel like I'm leaving too many brushstroke, but if I thin my paint any further I lose control and get puddles and smears.
>>
>>52353690
>your

Please calm down on the hostility. I'm not the troll.
>>
>>52353692
Do the edges first for sure, so you can use thin as fuck paint for the bigger bits. I assume your doing shoulder pads and unit numbers, so doing an outline in pencil is really helpful.

Also if your doing semi basic marines and not camo weathered tanks, figure which color is easier to cover, White markings on black armor, it's easier to paint a white shape and add black to shape it into your number or whatever. Doesn't work with real deal blending tho.
>>
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>>52353655
Thanks, anon.
>>
>>52353086
Alright. Your complain basically is that those avengers don't have highlights all around them, isn't it?

You don't need to always go all the way to white or near-white like you did in your model, which for my taste is way over the top in value and seriously lacks any kind of shading, but I respect your preferences, if that's really your model, that is.

In my case, I used a zenithal kind of lighting, in which you should concentrate the highlights on the parts facing and closer to the source of light, ie head, shoulders, arms, while keeping the farther parts moderately highlighted, and the rest pretty much in shadows, like you can see in the avengers' backs, which do not have any light hitting on them, just like the underside of the knees (is this what is bugging you?).
On the other hand, the area of the arms, shoulders, weapons, top of the knees and mohicans are all subtlely highlighted.

I'd like you to understand that this is not laziness, it's an artistic choice, the goal of which is both trying to get a more realistic result, and to direct your attention to the important parts. Obviously, I'm not a master of painting and still need a lot of practice, but if you want to become a real good painter you can't always paint "the GW style".
>>
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>>52353908
>>
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>>52353930
>>
>>52352221
Pretty good, you got lots of em to do so I would spray it to much, painting will go far.

I did something similar with a eBay lot of fugly guardsmen. I added some wrapping around the boots and occasionally the arms if the hand joint was busted or not touching.

Oh and pig iron heads don't have an attachment bulb circle thing like guardsmen heads, you have to fill it in and make damn sure you got it on while the greenstuff is still moldable so you get a custom fit. Scale works ok though. The bodies are to small though, alot of the hight is the metal base that you should trim off to fit Warhammer bases nice.
>>
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>>52353941
>>
>>52353908
Nicely done but I despise the shoulder pad inner border thing that GW pushes. They look way too stark, especially on the forearm.
>>
>>52353692
It's a good idea to make a rough sketch first to place the elements correctly, you can use some light grey for this so you can cover it easily later in case you need to make corrections, then you can outline it with a darker color, paint it inside the lines and lastly highlight/shadow the different elements just like you would do with any other part of the miniature.
>>
>>52353908
>>52353930
>>52353955
>>52353974

spot on m8
>>
>>52353974
Thanks alot, but I can see what you mean!
>>
>>52351922
the ambition is there, the skill will come. try to make his necklace stand out more.
>>
>>52353955
>Spray
Sweat it to much, don't break your ass on basic gaurdsman.

Also here is what I'm talking about with wraps.

http://www.talkwargaming.com/2014/04/tutorial-sculpting-ww1-style-foot-wraps.html?m=0
>>
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>>52353908
>>52353930
>>52353941
>>52353956
>>
>>52353887
>I'd like you to understand that this is not laziness, it's an artistic choice, the goal of which is both trying to get a more realistic result, and to direct your attention to the important parts. Obviously, I'm not a master of painting and still need a lot of practice, but if you want to become a real good painter you can't always paint "the GW style".

^ This, copy pasting what other people do means you are a shit painter no matter how well your stuff turns out. Im way more impressed but someone who has a half ass model thats never had help before than someone who just watched and followed a youtube with 20 shades of each color.
>>
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>>52354005
>>
>>52353908
It's honestly lts like GW did it themselves, very clean. I like it, don't ruin it by doing something goofy.
>>
>>52354020
Fallen or heresy? Could use em for both.
>>
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>>52354024
Thank you mucho!
>>
>>52354015
>learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist
>>
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>>52354035
Pre-heresy (:
>>
>>52353955
>>52354001
Thanks man, I might use the footwrap thing
>>
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>>52354060
>>
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Trying out a new scheme for my necrons, liking how the blue dry brush over the dark gray looks so far, curious if I should have it completely cover up the other color out leave it as is
>>
>>52353991
It's just a personal preference. That freehanded DA symbol is fantastic. The MK.III backpack has some pretty big gaps that could use filling though. That particular bit is always a huge pain.
>>
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>>52354081
>>
Finally ordered Mephiston to add to my BA army. But frankly the Lord of Death himself looks pretty lack luster. How can I convert him to look more badass/dynamic?
>>
>>52354085
I really don't like the drybrush. Looks way too chalky.
>>
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>>52354102
>>
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>>52354117
Forgot the pic
>>
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>>52349956
This is my battle-brother Patml.
I think this is going to be the scheme I'm going with for Guardians of the Covenant.
I'm starting my first army, this is the second time I've ever tried painting a 40k mini.
How's it look?
I know it looks crunchy AF from the sharpened image but I think it looks good at normal viewig distance/relatively smooth in hand. I'm not sure I like Necron compound for highlights, but highlighting silver is difficult.
>>
>>52354044
nnnghhh
Pretty fucking awesome
Though, and is my only complaint, the white point on the eyes shouldn't be symetric imho
>>
>>52354134
I think at the bare minimum a leg swap would be required to give him a more dynamic pose. Some DAngels kits probably have more dynamic robe leg options.
>>
>>52354085
>THEY'LL NEVER TAKE OUT FREEDOM!
>>
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>>52354262
Thanks alot anon!!
But I tried to paint the lens like in this pic
>>
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How to make washes not look so dirty? I used 1:1 water/wash and still looks dirty.
>>
>>52354044
How did you make the black metal?
>>
>>52354625
For the metal I used leadbelcher as the base coat, then I added nuln oil as a shade and then I highlighted with stormhost silver.
>>
>>52354612
Using too much maybe?
>>
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>>52354128
Im gonna dumb some more of my work if you guys don't mind
>>
>>52354612
>How to make washes not look so dirty?
Only apply the washes to the recesses not the whole model. If you must slather it on then don't let it pool and layer over it.
>>
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>>52354765
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>>52354828
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>>52354840
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>>52354852
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>>52354865
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>>52354879
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>>52354888
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>>52354922
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>>52354139
Looks ok, what I do when ever I start up a new paint scheme and want to practice is I get a cheap-o squad of dark vengeance marines and just start painting. I make post it notes for how I did each one, modifying it as I go along, exparamenting with diffrent paint ect. Then use them to bulk out squads.

Right now I'm doing up iron warriors, so I've been playing around with like 10 different ways to do silver. The classic boltgun silver, inked with black ink then using regular boltgun again works pretty dang well.

Like I said with gold up above, adding a highlight before you ink wash can help make a fake blending with the highlight over the wash. You can do that with very few paint, I've tried it both ways with real deal paints of lots of shades and it's pretty similar.

>Cheaper too, my black metal paint that is darker than bolt gun is only sold in a ten pack. Scale 75, very good paint btw.
>>
>>52354945
I love the head on the right

>I have to spend the rest of my death next to this fucking guy
>AHHHHhh
>Seriously he keeps fucking yelling
>AHHHHHHHHhhHHhHH
>Fuck my head
>>
>>52354612
Don't mix with water, add more clear wash.
>>
>>52354957
Rofl
>>
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>>52354945
More lizardmen :3
>>
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>>52355008
>>
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>>52355028
Sorry about the yellow light
>>
>>52355028
>>52355048
Loving the ripples.
>>
>>52355076
Thanks anon!
>>
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>>52355048
>>
>>52354953
I primed him with Leadbelcher and I have done 2-3 washes of dark ink for shading. He really doesn't look as harsh as the photo turned out (need to tone down the sharpening on the next photo set)
To a certain extent ambient lighting gives him natural highlights because of the nature of the metallic paint.
I tested probably 6 different shades of metal, everything from Alclad Chrome to leadbelcher, to offbrand stuff like a chainmail silver (vallejo I think?) and decided leadbelcher just looked the best (go figure, it's recommended for GoC)
I could do them all Dark Angels but I think the DA scheme is boring.
>>
>>52354612


>>52354767 has it, just do the recess. You don't have spread it all over.
>>
>>52354134
>Forgot the pic [of Mephiston]
>>52354265
>I think at the bare minimum a leg swap would be required to give him a more dynamic pose. Some DAngels kits probably have more dynamic robe leg options.

Good luck. Mephiston is made of two parts: the sword in his left hand, and everything else. The cloak, the pistol arm, those outrageous shoulder pauldrons... it's all one piece.

My advice? Paint him up for easily-recognizable hero-of-legend that he is, boring 2nd Edition pose and all. Pick another part of your army that will be less challenging if you're gunning for a conversion.
>>
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Working on my grenadier guard vets
The helmets are made of lead, but will coats of paint and varnish make my minis safe(er) to handle when they're done?
>>
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>>52355233
Thanks, Dante was gonna be the next mini I picked up and was gonna mix in some Sanguinary Guard parts. Also consider maybe giving him those Age of Sigmar wings just don't know if they would stand out way too much.
>>
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Working on a kitbash for a jump pack Blood Angels Librarian. What do you guys think so far?

I may grab an axe from the Sanguinary Guard kit instead, I'm not feeling this one..
>>
>>52356043
The Wings of a prosecutor are way too fucking big for a marine anyway. They'd look a mite bit silly on a marine who's entire body is smaller than a single wing
>>
>>52354117
>>52354134

I would honestly just use the new Sanguinary Priest kit. Convert the arms from Mephiston's and if you are skilled/ballsy enough, sculpt some hair onto a baldy head then call it a day.
>>
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>>52356062
I had no idea they were that big. Oh well, may just try and replacate this instead.

>>52356077
It's not a bad idea but as much as I love the New Sanguinary Priests the pose really doesn't scream "Lord of Death" as much as I would like it too. Oh well, may just paint him normally for now until GW gives him a better looking mini.
>>
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Losing the will with this model, want to go paint some more plaguebearers. Need to finish all the horns, they're all getting a fade to black tip, paint the base then pigments on the sword and I think I'll call it finished for the time being.
>>
Hey /wip/, I'm looking for alternatives to Citadel spray primer. I've read good things about Krylon and Rustoleum, does anybody have any good experiences with them? Also which ones to avoid like gloss, satin, etc. I'm looking for a white primer.
>>
>>52356286
I like the shit on the sword, however I feel you should put little yellow specks on there to make it look like corn.
>>
>>52356057
That's a really nice pose there anon, what's that chest from?
>>
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Doing some work on my Warders Of Rython Tribune; it's far from done so excuse the messiness of it.
>>
>>52356644
The Blood Angels upgrade pack.
>>
>>52351483
What's wrong with his head? Why is it in a weird place?
>>
Oh boy time to magnetize my broadside. I just know I'm going to fuck it up.
>>
Anyone have a series of different orc skin colors? I want a lot of variation in my guys, and also want to paint them getting darker on a scale--Megaboss is near black-green, getting brighter to Brutes, Ardboyz, and Savage Boyz til they're classic orruk green.
>>
>>52355675
>will coats of paint and varnish make my minis safe(er) to handle when they're done?
Yes. lead is toxic, not radioactive.
>>
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3D printed an orc and painted him. Since this print I've managed to get even more detail/less striation, so that's coo.
>>
>>52357272
>he-he's fast!
>>
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>>52350968

It is nice but it is as if i am looking at a clone army.
Couldnt you atleast change the poses a bit and add some slight variations?
>>
>>52356057
get rid of that huge mold line. other then that he's looking great so far.
>>
>>52351051
NOT BAD? I think we can do a little better than that!
>>
>>52351483
>>52351456
honesty, I'd make him more "troll"-like than Daemon-like - especially if you're using a proxy.
>>
>>52354879
It's a really well painted model anon. The only criticism I have is something you cannot change: it's a real pity his sword's script is upside down in this pose. But that's a model issue so in the end 10/10 would hunt the Fallen with.
>>
Doin the old quickshade lads
>>
>>52357832
>(6.74 MB, 4128x2322)

>6.74mb

Anon... please

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.simplemobilephotoresizer&hl=en

Otherwise, good for you, i'd rather see a dipped army than unpainted army
>>
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A simple base I'm working on for my Orksmurf things
>>
>>52357832
don't forget to remove the pooling wash from the feets of your minis.

Easily done by a brush with white spirit once the wash is semi-dry.
>>
>>52350968

Absolutely fantastic, awesome work!
>>
>>52354765
>>52354828

Love these, anon. (and the rest of your work)
>>
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Finally finished my buddy here after a long hiatus due to no primer. It has risen again!
>>
>>52356286
The pink bits are begging for some gloss or semigloss varnish, if you're not already on top of that.
>>
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>>52358138
And also took my time to finalize my Tau's colour scheme. What do you think? I really love the rich emerald green of the Salamanders so I pretty much did that. Leather undies, green primary armour colour with a black secondary.
>>
>>52358138
I am so nostalgic right now.
>>
>>52358174
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBIuWO3kXms

Go replay. I know I will.
>>
>>52358138
that's beautiful man, legit. love it.
>>
>>52358193
Thank you! I admit I'm not good at sculpting or freehand painting but I'm quite proud of what I slapped together.
>>
>>52356286
still awesome tough
>>
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Almost bashed out my entire Aufklärungsschwadron for East front and Normandy :)

Just gotta finish the crews and base them... yes I base my tanks, is that heresy?
>>
>>52358138
>>52358166
nice
>>
>>52358165
Yeah all those bits will get a gloss coat once I'm done painting, horns and claws too.
>>
>>52351922
2 thin layers > one thick layer

Also buy Agrax earthshade, put some all over the model and put one thin layer of the base paints you used where the shade didn't take
>>
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>>52358244
looking good man I am trying to get back into Bolt Action
>bought BA starter set and armour
>assemble and paint most of the minis
>put them in box on my bed while leaving for vacation
>come back
>they're all burst and broken
>family blame each other
>>
>>52356717
Nothing's wrong with it. Well besides him being a mutant hunchback.
>>
>>52358244

They look so cute, are they 1/72 or smaller?
Also, no basing vehicles are heresy.
>>
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i didnt realize this was an illegal loadout for a chosen until too late

fuckin goddammit
>>
>>52358321
snap em off and start again
>>
>>52358321
1 power claw is actually deactivated, and counts as a hand weapon.
>>
>>52358277
Yeash I can't imagine how furious I would be if someone broke my models, all those hours of effort.

>>52358308
1/100 a mix of the flames of war models and the plastic soldier company oh the pumas are... gosh I cant remember, i shopped around a lot to find them though cause the flames of war ones are awful.

>>52358321
don't sweat that he looks badass rule of cool wins here.
>>
>>52358308
>peaks
>>
>>52358325
ill probably do that and add another lightning claw, gotta have at least one CC monster in my chosen!

>>52358342
I appreciate it muchly, friend! but i think he's gonna end up the MK3 blender of claws

>>52358339
i could say that but my autism would kill me
>>
>>52358321
wait, since when can't have a chosen a pair of powerclaws?
>>
>>52356430
Honestly, Try to save up for a cheaper airbrush setup. Badger or Iwata Gravity fed Well Airbrush. Basic starter Air pump and the Vallejo Airbrush Primer.

Otherwise the citadel was the only stuff I would recommend from the spray can.
>>
>>52358408
they can have 2x claws, but they cant have a claw + fist, which is what i have

i was thinking of the chaos lord which can run fist n claw
>>
>>52358415
ok, sorry, looked like two claws to me
>>
>>52358244
>Those early Pz3 turrets with schürzen..
>Pz 3s accompanied by Pumas

Anon..
>>
>>52358480
Ah the Pumas are for Normandy and the Pz III"s are for Kursk.

Wait I have something to show you. Don't leave this thread.
>>
I can't decide for my tzaangor colour scheme.
When it comes to armour I'm ripped between box-art turquoise one, black+gold form pyrofane cult and violet-cheery with gold trims (my own idea).
When it comes to skin I wanted to make grey priming, fast white drybrush and use mix of washes and glazes to make all kind of skintones, form blue to green, blue and purple. My other idea was to fully replicate scheme of Pyrofane Cult (pink tzaangor skin and black+gold armour).

What to do?
>>
>>52358480
Now, I wasn't planning to do this pic until I had my good camera and daylight but I guess its a WIP thread. Sorry for shakey phone pic.

Please anons notice my attention to detail and praise me, it's all I have :P
>>
>>52354922
>>52354945
>that jade
Holy shit
>>
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>>52358579
>>52358480
Sorry i'm a retaard and forgot pic.
>>
>>52358586
Thats really nice Anon.
Ignore my comment then, for Kursk they are perfect.
>>
>>52358166
Bumping for feedback on the scheme.

I'm going to tackle the stealthsuits next. I know I want to do a darker scheme but I'm torn on whether I want to do that "phasing in/out" effect a lot of people are fond of. I had done it with my previous army which was nice but unsure if it's too overused perhaps.
>>
>>52358598
Thanks :) It was a bit confusing I understand I am trying to get my entire ww2 collection finished in one go. Just a few markers and crew then I haven't got a single unpainted ww2 model. Kind of remarkable for me lol.
>>
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>>52358649
>I haven't got a single unpainted ww2 model

thats a goal for the far far future for me.

pic related is what i'm painting right now, a russian truck captured by the Wehrmacht. (for Bolt Action)
>>
>>52358740
That mg34 is not going to sit that way on the bipod for long when the truck is moving desu
>>
>>52358740
Really nice, I don't think I could take on another 28mm project but if i did it would be WW2.
>>
>>52358774
true, but i wanted to fill that space with something "german".
>>
Does anyone have an idea or picture that would make an awesome diorama?

Preferably something that isn't the usual 'last stand'....
>>
>>52358850
I always wanted to get one of the Circle Orboros werewolves and a WHF Vargheist and do a "Dracula vs the Wolfman" diorama on top of a broken gothic castle ruin.
>>
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>>52358850
I do, I have thought about this often but I have no Golden Demon level skills.

Basically this but with a Valkyrie, the Valkyrie held up by the ropes with Guardsmen roping out of it. Fighting around it.
>>
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How should i base this? Have 54 more of them to paint before I base them but I've got no clue what would look good
>>
>>52358880
That's brilliant.

It would take crazy levels of sculpting, though. No existing models would be a decent fit around the rope... I think.
>>
>>52358880
Seen this done with Scouts roping out of Landspeeder. Neat idea for sure.
>>
>>52358912
>>52358905
Like this one? I've not seen one with them roping down. Would love to see the Valkyrie idea one day, please someone steal it :P Definitely be a labour, but these GD level guys could handle the greenstuffing as well.

What was that really briliant guard diorama called the one that was two tanks in the rubble of a urban city, stalingrad style?
>>
>>52357319
For that unit specifically, I prefer uniformity and coherence. These are highly trained eldar warriors firing against an objetive after all, not uncivilized orks charging to close combat.

Have you looked into Infinity wargame? I think you would like it. In that game every single miniature is unique, and not just a repositioned clone.
>>
>>52358850
Skitarii advancing over a ridge and firing into a horde.
>>
>>52358601
i feel like it looks too monocromatic, the secondary should give some degree of contrast in tau schemes imo(no you are not forced to agree, i am pretty sure not even GW schemes follow my point of view), having only those minscule brown accents makes it too boring for me.(notice i said a bit of contrast not a lot of contrast)
>>
>>52359355
Hm. Well the original idea was to have the middle section of the shoulderpad be the same leather colour, but I dunno, I just really like the emerald/black combo.

I do know what you mean though, I'll spend some time going over it in my head. In my defence though, I plan on adding a bit more camouflage to the army depending on their role and abilities. The FWs are the "bait" for the Kauyon, they lure the enemy to them. Then you have pathfinder snipers with more of a vibrant woodland camo since they'd be behind enemy lines. Stealthsuits with darker tones of the main scheme doing ambushes etc. Dunno if that counts but there you go.

And speaking of stealthsuits, got any advice for me on the approach for them? I can't decide whether to do the phasing effect or not.
>>
>>52359538
i like stealthsuits painted normally, but a wel done effect can get you some free undiserved praise sometimes and it feels pretty good.
>>
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>>52359620
Well, this is my previous scheme from like 6 years ago. It was simple as hell but I liked it. I'm more leaning towards normal painted though, because I have other stealth units. Don't want to paint Shadowsun or my Ghostkeel like that, feels like you're wasting all that detail and my OCD won't allow me to field both phasing and normal stealth units, hah.
>>
>>52354953
Anon, there are various sites (including their own) that sell the paints separately now. You don't need to get the full box anymore.
>>
>>52350404
I feel like the most important tip with greenstuff for beginners is to note that time and temperature are your best tools when working with any putty.

- be patient and learn when to stop (lest you make the mistake of finger squishing something beautifully sculpted that took a long time to make, by accident)
- greenstuff usually takes an hour to get tough, and three hours to cure. After two days its hard as plastic.
- cold greenstuff takes longer to cure
- warm greenstuff cures a bit faster but also mixes faster and more consistently
- warm greenstuff is good for organic and curved shapes
- colder, maybe an hour-or-so greenstuff is tougher and more useful for straight edges and actual polygon shapes.

- also, have tools, and have a plan.
>>
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How do I tell if my solvent mask is working properly?
>>
>>52359902
you'll only know once you remove it, there shouldn't be anything underneath it.
>>
>>52350968
Fantastic

One day I'll be able to paint like this
>>
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>find an old rattlecan of grey primer
>see that is has a date on the bottom
>expired 2 years ago
>"surely that's just when it was made, r-right?"
>prime
>models feel like sandpaper

That'll teach me not to try it on a sprue first. Shit.
>>
>>52360283
D E T T O L
E
T
T
O
L
>>
>>52351117
Purple cool as fuark
>>
>>52354044
It's very good, but I think maybe you should drybrush the black areas with a very dark blue, and make sure it covers at least 50% of the dark.
That way you don't need to be freehand god to do these very nice highlights.-
>>
>>52355028
kewl lizardmen.
>>
Whats the best way to do snow bases?
>>
>>52354134
This model is from a time when gw had a classy amount of skulls on things
>>
>>52360623
Glue cotton balls to the base
>>
>>52360623
I always say this in these threads when people ask but no one ever responds so I don't know if they're doing it or not.

Buy Woodland Scenics Soft Flake Snow, cover the parts of the base you want to be snowy in PVA glue and then sprinkle the snow effect over it. You can also mix the snow effect in with PVA, a little water (and some paint/ink if you want to change the colour) for a snow paste that when dry looks like a deep snowfall. Of all the method's I've tried for snow, I prefer this one. I don't fuck around with the crushed glass stuff though, too worried about the pets somehow ingesting it.
>>
How many IQ points do you think we've lost from gluing and spraying, senpaitachi?
>>
>>52360901
Not nearly as much as we lost while reading stupid shit on 4chins.
>>
>>52360884
Thanks :D This sounds easier than i thought it'd be. I'll post pics when my dudes are done.
>>
>>52361280
This page might be helpful to you also.

http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=6
>>
>>52360926
Holy shit are you me? Well at least this response knows lets us know we still have SOME brain cells left.
>>
>>52360926
You sure about that? I love huffing plastic glue breh.
>>
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Decided to paint the Genestealers from my Lost Patrol box with a white-on-black gradient prime covered with Drakenhof and Druchii for the carapace and flesh, then Mechanicus gray claws highlighted with Dawnstone and some Flash Gitz eyes.

They're really fast to paint and I think they look decent. Any tips? (The bases are just painted brown for now, I'm out of basing texture)
>>
>>52362142

Sorry for the sideways image... I can't figure out why my phone does that.
>>
Does anyone know if Catachan arms are a good match for Bloodreavers bodies? I'm trying to make some Khornate Cultists
>>
>>52362142
primers looks fuzzy and it looks like everything could do with a highlight.
At the moment the whole thing just looks unfinished
>>
>>52362142
>I think they look decent

m8, sorry to be blunt but it looks pretty bad, You've clearly had some sort of primer mishap, which is why your mini is all grainy and the details are clogged.

Your idea is an interesting one, tends to work better with inks than with GW washes due to their intensity of colour - your colours at the moment just look like a very thin first layer basecoat.

Do you have an airbrush? They make zenithal priming (your white-to-black gradient) a breeze and you don't get the primer issue. Also, the highlights on the claws are fairly thick - do you use the side of your brush or are you trying to paint thin lines for your highlights?

Hope this helps a little.
>>
>>52362142
Mould lines.
>>
>>52362257

I don't have an airbrush, so I just used a rattlecan for the zenithal priming. I know it has a grainy look but it doesn't bother me much when looking at it on the tabletop.

When I said it looked decent I meant like 3/10, which is about what I was looking for with my time investment on these. They certainly aren't beautiful models but they meet my needs.
>>
>>52358138
Now that's some good nostalgia right there!
>>
>>52358850
A unit of blood axe orks ambushing an imperial guard caravan in the jungle.
>>
>>52362363
Thanks mate!

Question about GW paints. I have an unused bottle of Vallejo Game gold and another bottle that's got like 1/4 left but I really hate the coverage they give. Game Colour metallics seem to exist in only two states: Thick goop and Glittery water (even if you put a tiny speck of water in it).

Is Retributor or Liberator Gold by GW better as a gold basecoat? I like the dull shine it gives for models like the Thousand Sons and Sigmarines.
>>
aalright lads im looking for a dragon model to use for my dnd, I kbow this isnt the best place to ask but anyone got a link tk something that i could convert or something?
>>
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I'm relatively new this I started 3 weeks ago how'd I do?
>>
Can you guys post pictures of your imperial fists? Thinking about becoming a son of dorn and need some inspiration to pull off some really kick ass yellow
>>
>>52362688
Not terrible.

The gun could use some Nuln Oil wash to define its surface a little better.
You also could use a 1,5mm drill to drill its barrel.
>>
>>52356644

this >>52356671 and the cape from the Deathwatch Blackshield
>>
>>52360884
>crushed glass
The fuck? Is that something they actually sell as snow flock?
>>
>>52362714
Anything that could be done better? I'd have some Nuln oil already but my local store was sold out
>>
>>52362755
yes
>>
>>52362688
Highlight the leather straps with some lighter brown down the sides
Also what anon said >>52362714
washes are really important for metallics
>>
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Just about finished base coat for cawl.

Anyone else painted this guy? Got any tips? All these little details are gonna kill me.
>>
>>52363503
A bit late for it for you, but I found leaving all arms off when I painted (except the tiny ones in his robo-gut) made all the tiny details a lot easier to paint.
>>
>>52362755

Yeah. It's crushed to powder form so it's not as dangerous as it sounds (like killing dogs with glass in meat or breaking a car window), but don't breathe it in or eat any of it.
>>
>>52362481

Vallejo Game Color metallics suck.

Liberator Gold and Retributor Gold are both great. Retributor will cover more because it is a base, but Liberator also has amazing coverage for such a thin layer metallic. Vallejo Model Air and Vallejo Metallic Color also have VERY good metallics and are cheaper than GW drop for drop, but they are mostly silver and only have 1 or 2 shitty golds.

Retributor and Liberator Gold are basically the best mainstream acrylic golds on the market, unless you get a less known brand like Darkstar Molten Metal.

Just stay away from non-white lid GW metallics and Vallejo Game metallics, they are garbage. Vallejo Model Air, Vallejo Metallic Color are the good ones. Alclad 2 and Vallejo Liquid Gold are also good but they are very hard to work with and are enamel/lacquer/alcohol. Vallejo Liquid Gold will actually rust if you keep the bottle open too long or get water on it.
>>
>>52363648
A good whiff of finely crushed glass will fuck you up hardcore - not to mention getting it in the eye,
>>
>>52363593
yeah i wish i had left him in a couple more pieces before painting
>>
>>52351296
I really like your rusted metal. Great job!
>>
>>52363709
>either have to use baking soda that yellows or goopy snow drift stuff like Valhallan Texture
>using the shining snow like crushed glass requires as much eye and mouth protection as handling anthrax

This is why I just say fuck it and don't do snow bases. It's going to suck if I ever have to do Space Wolf or Chaos Warriors/Ogres who are at home in the snow.
>>
>>52358850
I really want to put a zoanthrope on the back of a heavily wounded carnifex surrounded by lots of orks.
>>
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>>52363828
This is pretty good
>>
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I'm so close to the end Bois I can smell it, just the servo skull and base need done.

Also first post pls no bully
>>
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>>52363828
Valhallan Blizzard is really good paint to use
>>
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>>52364253
Also used it for weathering this tank
>>
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Angels of redemption slowly coming along. They're fun so far to paint but I'm sure it will be just a pain in the ass by the time I finish the army.

Do they look ok so far? I'm thinking either jungle or ruined city bases but input on that would be really good
>>
>>52364470
looking good, painting a halfed scheme like that would drive me mad. Good luck.
As for basing I think a ruined city would be cool
>>
>>52364470
Very clean, nice work man.

Have you thought about using masking tape and airbrushing them? That would speet it up a bit.
>>
>>52356286
Is that meant to be rust? It looks like he's dipped his sword in a pile of wet shit
>>
>>52364592
either way works for nurgle
>>
>>52364470
why are they standing on tribbles?
>>
>>52364672
blu-tac
>>52364531
55 to do all together for a Lion's Blade detachment. Ruined city it is then!
>>52364573
I'm airbrushing the main colours, and zenithal highlighting them, then going back and edge highlighting with the brush.
>>
>>52352221
That looks pretty cool actually Anon. I might steal that idea for my conscript blob of shittily assembled dudes I got off eBay.

Did you just uses knife to remove the shoulder pads and file down? And for the scarf did you just wrap a pancake of greenstuff andrip an mould it?
>>
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Hey that's a cool BT MKIV Dreadnought you got off ebay. Shame if something happened to it.
>>
>>52365069
you better not be stripping it with the base attached
>>
>>52365069
for an ebay buy, that doesnt look too bad
>>
>>52365079
Nah I gotta pry this guy off of it first.
>>
>>52365117
It is accually pretty good, but I have no choice. They don't make the MKIV anymore and this is all I could find.
>>
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About done with these Carcharodons. Still have to do tribal tatoos when I feel confident enoigh to get a micron pen and try it.
My highlights are still thick as shit and the faceplate could be thinner.
But still, it's a blast to paint these, can't wait for plastic mk5 so that I can truely make them as they should be.

Do note that the eyes are shiny but it doesn't show. Tempted to try the standard highlights with greys instead of just shiny black, in order to depict the void black eyes lenses.

Waiting on some resin to make their bases look like they're walking in some dark waters, what's with being void predators and all.
>>
I was painting a gradient onto a model when I lost my grip on it and it slipped. Random line of paint going in the opposite direction. I am annoyed.
>>
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I have some sniper rifles from forgeworld that are bent a little bit, I know I need to put them in hot water to get them to be flexible but how do I retain the position I want?

SHould I splint them with something?
>>
>>52365069
how, I could never strip something like this
>>
>>52365328
Maybe cause I'm not running Templars? NO SHAME
>>
I used Vallejo Game Air Cold Grey to airbrush a basecoat, hoping it would be mile Dawnstone (the chart said it would) but it's more like the lighter Administratum Grey. Anyone know which Vallejo Air is Dawnstone? They have so many greys it's annoying.
>>
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I need some cool ideas for count-as Servo-skulls for a Chaos Renegade army. I've tried bio-mechanical abominations but I'm not really feeling them.
>>
>>52365543
Take the cherub from the Devastators kit, corrupt him, done.
>>
>finally figured out a way to assblast through airbrushing wraithbone bases for my eldar in roughly 40 seconds per base

Airbrushes save lives
>>
>>52365259
Hold them in place after forming them, and either dunk them in cold water or pour it over them. If you can get a second person to do the pouring, then even better.
>>
So I've decided to paint my 30K mkIII guys as Iron Warriors (or perhaps sone splinter faction/successor) and i have two questions.

1) whats the best base color to use for yellow, over black primer? Brown?
2) any good reference for alternate Iron Warriors color schemes?
>>
>>52366123
Believe it or not I put them in the microwave in some water (nuked the water for 2 mins prior) and left them there to go back for after I primed some other stuff.

This was like 30 minutes ago, I saw your post and went back to get them. They had gone back to being straight. Weird.
>>
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Starting on my second Caladius. Somehow built this thing in under 45 minutes.
>>
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>>52349956
So, question; Am I just being dumb amd not finding the bits providex, or is this a mess up on GW's part?

If you cant tell, its a skink missing its head, leg, and tail
>>
>>52366754
No, that's a fuck up. Skinks should have both legs, head and tail. Contact GDubs and see what you can snag.
>>
>>52365543
You got "biomechanical". Now add eyes, maws and tentacles for "chaos" and "abomination".
>>
>>52366788
Thanks for the advice. The only time I've ever contacted GW was when the nozzle of their spray primer popped off, and when I contacted them, they got it sorted out. I'll just ask if I can get a replacement sprue for the dude.
>>
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r8 my chapter scheme /tg/
>>
>>52366855
Be sure to include the photo. It's pretty obvious its a castign issue, and no way to really fake that without a lot of careful work which, frankly, wouldn't be worth the time.
>>
>>52366816
Huh. Now you bring it up, I actually have very little in the way of chais mutations in my army as a whole.Jsut a couple minor things here and there.

I guess some Mini-spawn might work.
>>
>>52357934

Looks great!
>>
>>52366867
It'll do. Nice purple. I really hope the shoudlerpads were just a quick and dirty blocking in. Now to go drink Tamiya Extra Thin until I forget about those mold lines.
>>
>>52366969
Yeah it's just a quick mockup to see how the colors look on an old model I had laying around. I'll clean it up nicer when I do the real thing.
>>
>>52365259

Thin pieces like this suck when they're in resin. They are so fragile and often come warped. I would honestly replace it with stiff brass rod, but if you dunk them in boiling water then gently nudge them straight and then IMMEDIATELY dip them in cold water they will harden and set in the straight position.
>>
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Just got to retouch up the bone on the hand but Durthu's sword is basically done now.
First real attempt at a big flat gradient like this and I know it does look a little thick in places but I guess it could be a lot worse
>>
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>>52350056
>>52350080
Also beginner here, so no criticism, but I wouldn't trust myself with freehanding, and your checkers are bit off. Maybe you can try something with masking tape.
>>
>>52366612
Bumping cuz im excited to paint these guys.
>>
I used Rustoleum black primer for the first time to prime my Broadside. It came out shiny instead of matte

Is this going to be an issue when painting?
>>
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>>52366612
>>52367823
What I do gor hazard lines is that I prime black, spray metal the whole model, except the shoulderpads (I didn't do hazard lines on pauldrons) so that Averland sunset can be applied easily. Metal is easier to cover than black.

Pic related is a scheme an anon did.
>>
>>52365357
Pls respond
>>
>>52362688
For a first attempt that's really good, well done anon
>>
>>52351063
Don't get cocky, kid.
>>
>>52352336
>says other space fag's stuff is bad
>posts half assed layering job
>superior
>>
>>52364098
Those greens are beautiful
>>
>>52351108
>>52351117
Green would make me say neat as I passed by your table.

Purple would make me stop and ask questions.

So I guess it depends on how you handles conversations with strangers
>>
>>52368055

Use Dawnstone Air you dumb cunt there is no pure equivalent.
>>
>>52368231
Oh yeah silly me. Have you ever had any experience with Air paints from GW?
>>
>>52367988
Should I sand the shiniest parts or is it going to be ok?

I'd paint it now to see if something's fucked but I want to let it dry completely before painting
>>
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Hello /wip
What do you think about my little green friend ?
>>
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Finished assembling my Knight Atrapos. This dude is fucking huge.
>>
>>52368747
What are you going to put on its base?
>>
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>>52368766
Rocks and rubble like my other Knights.
>>
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>>52368747
It's a fun model. Doing one for a friend right now. Asked to make the superstructure all bronze, so Giving that a go right now.

Deciding on what parts of the legs should be grey and what parts red.
>>
>>52349956
/wip/, i need help. I've been repainting X-wing ships, and it's been going pretty well. One of my first repaints was a Decimator that I can definitelty do better on if I try again.

I bought this Simple Green to strip it, but it says it needs to be diluted. How much should I dilute it to strip an X-wing ship?

I can post my Decimator if needed. The paint isn't much more over the stock paintjob.

Thanks in advance!
>>
>>52368782
I hate how imperial knights just make me think Warjack. I don't even play Warmachine. Not yet anyway. Looking to see if 3rd ed kills it before dropping some money and time on it
>>
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>>52357697
Thank you so much Anon! I really appreciate it, and I agree also...

>>52358082
Thank you mucho Anon!!

>>52358585
Thanks man!

>>52360535
Thanks anon, but nah, I can't stand drybrushing(I only prefer it on larger models with metal parts), but the highlights is worth it in the end anyway, thank you so much again!

>>52360587
Thank you!
>>
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>>52369130
>>
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>>52369144
>>
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>>52369159
>>
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>>52369177
>>
>>52368987
I don't dilute at all when I use Simple Green.
>>
>>52369130
>>52369177
>>52369195
These are all very nicely painted.

Especially like the Dark Angel Captain.

One thing let's them down though, imo. The paint on the base rim is streaky. A second coat of paint there would fix that easily though. It's one of my personal pet peeves about basing, but worth pointing out here I think.

Can't really criticize much else here. Top notch stuff.
>>
>>52369241
That's for stripping plastic, right?

40k plastic is similar to FFG hard plastic, although it might be softer. I don't want to fuck up my Decimator though.
>>
>>52369313
(FFG ships are probably a bit softer than 40k models I mean)
>>
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Games Workshop General Discord, a place for when the thread is dead or you want slightly faster paced chat!

https://discord.gg/Zeh7nhC
>>
>>52369313
I've done it with 40 plastic, metal, finecast, and FW resin. Doesn't hurt any of them.
>>
>>52369768
Yeah, it's definitely harder than any sort of resin. I'll pour it into a bucket and put the Decimator and those Russ tanks that the guy from my LGS wanted to strip.
>>
>>52363696
Thanks loads mate, I was fearing this.. I have all this gold but its meh. rather spend a few extra coins on a tub of great gold. Do you recommend I just get both retributor and liberator? they complement each other I think
>>
>>52368991
>I hate how imperial knights just make me think Warjack.

I know I probably won't be able to erase this from your mind (have you tried singing "Yellow Submarine" by The Beatles?), but Knights have been around forever - way before Warmachine. They comes from Epic along with all the other super-heavy stuff that really tilts game balance.
>>
>>52368991

Actually...


>>52369944

Warjacks were probably inspired by the old RT/2e era knights and androids and so on.
>>
Some spots of the primer coat I sprayed are shiny. Is that going to affect how the paint adheres?
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