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WIP General - Painting Converting Sculpting

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Thread replies: 354
Thread images: 91

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Work in progress: painting, sculpting, converting general

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint - the ellipses is part of the link
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>In the face of death, I shall have no remorse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_ZgyNoHtjw

>Previous Threads
>>52280906
>>52258015
>>52133721
>>52113479
>>52308511
>>
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>>52329482
FIRST FOR THE SPACE MARINES
>>
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I want to do a blue Blood Angels successor, is this heretical?

I'm trying to get a more 'azure' blue (as befitting pretty marines) and I'm thinking white marble pauldrons.
>>
Anyone know how to paint white/albino fur? I feel like it should be as easy as starting with an offwhite and working up to pure white with layers of drybrushing, but I also feel like that sounds too easy to work.
>>
>>52329744
Paint with grey basecoat, wash black and highlight with an off white/greywhite ton and then use pure white on the top of the furs
If you're drybrushing do the same as I said, fur is easy if you drybrush it and the result is good.
You can manually highlight which takes a lot of time but looks incredible
>>
>>52329833
Thanks man.
>>
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Got my overlord featured on the gdubz site.

I thought it looked shit lol
>>
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I just finished this guys. I though they were going to be really easy to paint, but it took me almost a year for gather enough strength to finish them.

Infinity miniatures are nice to paint, shame that the game itself is so tedious.
>>
>>52330257
Those are really nice mate, great job. My only critique would be the highlights are a touch stark for my tastes, but thats just me. They still look spot on!
>>
>>52330201

Well done, lad.
>>
>>52330257
That looks pretty great anon.

I wish I could get NMM blending consistently as good as those.
>>
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>>52330201
>Got my overlord featured on the gdubz site.

Groovy.
>>
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So I've been putting together my first Knight, and cleaning a couple mouldlines I've missed because I'm a fuckwit, and although the bottom and back sections went together nicely, there are some gaps between the front of the sides and the section that is below the head, pic related. What do I do about them, if anything? Fill with glue, do nothing or try something with greenstuff?
This is my first kit I've really ran into this problem with.
>>
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>>52330296

It's a fair complain; I normally paint trying to emphasize blending instead of highlights (like this pic), but Infinity miniatures has so many details that I tend to exaggerate the lights in order to get something that look right from above.

Thanks btw!
>>
>>52330477
That makes a lot of sense when you say it like that, i'll let you off :^)

That fleshtone is fucking perfect... I hate you.
>>
>>52330477
the shirt and pillow are fucking perfect. well done
>>
>>52330477
Where did you learn to do flesh like that? And for that matter, what paints do you use?

I've been trying to practice skin for Kingdom Death but it all comes out looking like an awful mess.
>>
Hey guys I posted yesterday asking for tips. This is what came out of my attempt. Don't know why the face is all speckley now. Maybe too much dry brush? I'll post the before in a second.

Sorry for file size, mobile photo
>>
>>52330257
My complaint exactly about infinity itself. You'd think with models so nice the game would flow just as smooth.
>>
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>>52330877

OH GOD I AM SO SORRY
>>
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>>52330907

Before. he's the fellow on the left
>>
>>52330953
>>52330907

>4.17mb 5k x 3k
>3.32mb 2.5 x 2k
>4.84mb 3.2k x 2.5k

Anon for God's sake...

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.simplemobilephotoresizer&hl=en
>>
>>52330953
>>52330907
>3.32 MB, 2649x2117
>4.84 MB, 3290x2549
Stop this shit
>>
>>52330877
>>52330907
>>52330953
I like the speckleyface. Gives it texture, like it's old and beat up.
>>
>>52330991

Hey, thanks a lot. Really.
>>
>>52330993

Didn't know how to resize it. Really this is like the second time I've ever posted on any of these types of forums. Sorry
>>
>>52330201
>I thought it looked shit

Good eye, cause it does.
>>
>>52331106
lurk moar
>>
>>52329727
Of course not.
Remember that there's a Duncan tutorial for marble.
>>
>>52330201
Well done lad.

Now, do note that they do feature shit jobs sometimes, but don't worry, yours isn't.
>>
>>52331106
Easy, look up in your phone's settings when taking a picture. You can change the resolution. Take one of the lowest one.

And then, crop your pictures, no need to take the whole desk with it.
>>
>>52331142

Lurking =/= posting

It's another world

>>52331236

Thanks
>>
>>52331304
>lurking =/= posting
No shit. I'm saying don't post and lurk more. Then you would have realised your mistakes before making them.
>>
>>52331333

Oh cool thanks. I like the other people's advice better but I'll take what I can get.
>>
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>>52330314
>>52330682

Thanks :)

>>52330717

I use Vallejo model color. I think that the most important thing to paint the flesh this way it's using a really thin paint to do the blending. It's about letting the paint move into the miniature more than "apply" it.

This is my recipe:

Base coat: Sunny Skin Tone (70845)
First shadow: Brown Sand (70876)
Second shadow: Brown Sand (70876) + Flat Earth (70893)
Third shadow: [Brown Sand (70876) + Flat Earth (70893)] + [Chocolat Brown (70872) + (very little) Black (70950)]
First light: Sunny Skin Tone (70845) + Basic Skintone (70815)
Tones: Calvary Brown (70982)
Second light: Basic Skintone (70815)
Third light: Basic Skintone (70815) + Ivory (70918)
Highlight: Ivory (70918)

I made a tutorial some time ago, it's not about flesh, but it shows the process that I use to paint it: http://imgur.com/a/oRtlX

>>52330899

I really wanted to love it; waited for the 3rd edition waiting for a big rework in their core mechanics, but they even make the problem worse. I don't want to be checking 3 200-pages books every 5 minutes in a game, it simply take away all the fun.

>>52330907

Try to thin more your paint. You need more precision, but you only going to achieve that painting more, so keep working.


True metallic is difficult to improve, you could try to do something like pic related, with an easy nmm.

Also, check this: http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com.es/2010/02/tutorial-painting-true-metallic-metal.html

Good luck!
>>
>>52330201
It's not bad at all but you could have definitely blended down better on the orb.
>>
>>52331606
Dude, do you have an instagram or a facebook page? Id love to see more of your work and future stuff.
>>
>>52329744
https://youtube.com/watch?v=McfWLZ253Hk
>>
>>52330477
Ah, it's you!
I love your painting style, andyou should post more
>>
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Do you varnish your minis and if so, with what?

I've been googling brands and according to comments all of them are the best thing ever or absolute crap depending on who you ask. Looking for a matt varnish either brush-on or rattlecan.
>>
>>52332701
I personally prefer Army Painter matte varnish (rattle can).
>>
>>52332701
Testors Dullcote
>>
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>>52332701
>Do you varnish your minis and if so, with what?

This stuff works pretty well. I also sometimes use Citadel's 'Ardcoat on surfaces with waterslide transfers to help keep them from rubbing off when being handled during games.
>>
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currently converting some chaos cultists, anyone know what size bases they use for the game?
>>
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reposting pic from the last thread, not had time to take a newer one yet but I could do with some advice.
Next thing i'll be painting on this guy is his sword, what sort of colours do you guys think would go well?
I'm thinking possibly orange to match the glowey parts but i'm not 100% confident I could make it look decent
>>
>>52330907
>>52330953

Oh hey, saw these in the last thread. They look better!
You could also add some extra highlight to the coils in the body of the rifle, I'd be tempted to go real bright with them, make them look like they are glowing.
Other than that I think it's just going to be a case of practicing and painting more to improve, so get painting!
>>
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magnetised but only basic loadout painted thus far.
>>
>>52332841

Pretty sure it's the 25mm bases for cultists.
>>
>>52332841
Got any WIP shots or at least what parts you're using? Was thinking of converting some cultists myself in a few weeks.
>>
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>>52329482
What does tg think of my blood bowl base?

Thinking of basing my entire team like this.
>>
>>52332841
I would use 25 mm

Ge has been switcing over to 32 lately though
>>
>>52333193
I dig it. If you're gonna label some of your team you've gotta label them all though or it won't look right.
>>
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Does anyone know a good source of feathers to put on some IG helmets? I tried looking into stuff like the bolt action bersaglieri but looks like the heads are not available as a separate pack.
>>
>>52333425
warhammer fantasy empire stuff
>>
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Threw together a chaos spawn with extra bits, painted it up, need to do more touchups and have since put crackle paint on the base.
Though, painting this thing cemented my aversion to painting any of my kingdom death models. I am shit at skin.
Also, they're spare bits. In case of an autistic rage from some anon: no, I did not break apart an entire KD mini for a shitty spawn.
>>
>>52333579
well, I won't be sleeping tonight
>>
>>52333579
poor poor Ivy. Soul Edge is a helluva drug
>>
>>52333579
I like it!
>>
>>52329626
Is he doing some assault from a thunderhawk?
(mini still looks nice)

>>52329727
Lamenters are yellow, and a blood angel succesor, so I don't see any problem.

>>52330201
what is shit about that?

>>52330257
>>52330477
>>52331606
nice

>>52330907
>>52330953
not bad, could be better, but all in all, not bad

>>52332931
great work anon

>>52333193
looks nice

>>52333579
>I am shit at skin.
I don't find it bad
also, my I ask, from where are the female legs?
>>
>>52330257
Do you scratchbuild the bases or are they premade?
>>
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Pic is what I'm going to try finish now. I keep painting Malifaux, but the community has died in my city, so sooner or later I'm gonna drop it and start with KDM.

>>52331786

Nop; I lurk around here and I used to be on the Malifaux forum, but nothing more. I should make a blog or something because I do commissions some times and it would make my life easier, though. Maybe I'll try to make one this weekend; I'll discreetly spam it here when it's done.

>>52332450

Haha, I post here a lot, but I usually do without posting any of my miniatures to keep a low profile.

>>52332701

I have used Vallejo air varnish and it looks nice. A professional once told me that the best one was the matte one from marabu.
>>
>>52333721
The female legs and arm are an alternate choice for one of the kingdom death Saviour pinup models.
Thanks for the feedback, anons, makes me certainly feel better about it. Though, I now see moldlines and a splotch of blue on a tentacle; was a bit too hasty to post.
>>
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I'm working on a Throgg-proxy. The thought behind the mini is to have a Daemon Prince/heavily mutated champion/Troll King which will lead a horde of Nurgle mutants (Putrid Blightkings), trolls and the odd minotaur (which will all proxy for trolls).
As of now the mini is simply composed of a GW minotaur with the head from a Mantic Moloch, but I'd like to make some further additions to it to make it appear like a proper great champion of the Chaos Gods. What are your suggestions? I'm half tempted to give him the skull cloak from the Chaos Lord on Manticore box.
>>
>>52333815
thanks for the source of the legs
and about the moldlines and the splotch of blue, since it's a spawn anyway, it doesn't matter that much (in my opinion)
>>
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>>52333729

Those are premade; urban series from microart. I do my own bases now, but only because I'm a cheapo, premade normally look better. Pic are the one I made for cities now.
>>
>>52332931

That's really good. Only thing I can think of is the helmet socket of the mid guy should have been darker since you can see into it and it's all bright.
>>
>>52332822

This. Use Testors' Dullcote if you are a billionaire. Use Army Painter Anti-Shine if you aren't. Other non-yellowing UV resistant mattes probably get the job done just fine but Testors and AP have given the most consistent, highest quality truly matte (with texture) finishes from my experience.
>>
>>52333928
is there a goto varnish for use with an airbrush?
>>
Starting Guard and while I've got the colour scheme down I haven't decided on a regiment yet.

Thoughts?
>>
>>52334024
Solid guardsmen, i usually prefer though to go with a lighter color for the cloth

What brown do you use? I use zandri dust
>>
>>52334024
Paint job's definitely solid.
>>
>>52333975
I use vallejos gloss and matt varnishes

You have to be careful though with the matt varnish because too much ruins the model

This model is coated in matt varnish>>52333193
>>
>>52333975

Vallejo or Liquitex, thinned with airbrush thinner. You COULD decant the spray varnishes into a cup and use that, but that's just pointless.
>>
The only issue I have with Vallejo matte varnish is that it's very thick and while it leaves a nice hyper matte finish, it dries smooth due to the resin shell. I like my matte varnish to have a rough matte texture to so you know it's a true matte just from picking up the model. Army Painter's brush on matte varnish is thinner and has this feeling, but it's not as protective as Vallejo matte and it's not as rough or consistent a finish as Army Painter or Testor spray.
>>
>>52334062
>>52334071

Thanks guys, the cloth is Mournfang brown sprayed right onto the plastic, washed with argrax earthshade and I lightly highlighted the raised cloth with Gorthor Brown. I wanted to go for the muddy earth/forest look so I figured a darker fatigue colour would be more suitable. Sick of doing sand bases.
>>
>>52334197
This rough effect is what i try and avoid which is why i use vallejo

I agree its very think like their otger varnishes, but on the plus it gives you greater control on the thickness of the mix
>>
If I do not have an airbrush would I be better off with getting one of the spray varnishes mentioned in this thread or brushing one on?

I already brush on my primer so I have no problem with doing it that way if I will get better results.
>>
>>52334231
That makes sense

I am not a fan of sand bases myself, they usually seem blan and lazy to me
>>
>>52334256
Most can varnishes are not ment for models, some people use them but you have to be extrememly carefull or else it will goop

If you gonna brush it on them use vallejo matt varnish, i use that to seal my decals and i use a brush for that. Its very smooth and thins very easy with water
>>
>>52334024

Why is he glowing with a holy radiance?

Only thing I would add is a brighter highlight to the face. Right now it looks like a dark flesh base with a wash and that's it.
>>
>>52334256

I think you'll be fine with a brush on varnish, just thin it down. If you buy a spray can just make sure you don't spray in high humidity or it will frost, and don't spray on thick layers or it will frost.

The key to any kind of varnish is moderation and low humidity. So that means thin your brush ons, and only light bursts of spray in low humidity weather.
>>
>>52334282
Pic related is my sand base for my Doom Eagles. It's a neutral colour so fits the silver well enough. Just got sick of it after a while and fancied a pallet change.
>>
>>52330201
That's a nice clean overlord there anon. Well done
>>
>>52334304
Good to know. I'm using Vallejo primer and mediums already so I will just add that to the shopping list.

Would it be worth doing my metals with gloss varnish then since I am already brushing it on or will they still look good with the matte?
>>
>>52334282

I have to use sand bases because my army is grey and black. It's either sand or snow. Anything else like mud or urban will blend into the model and make it a blob and I don't want green grass.
>>
>>52334304
>>52334331
>>52334282
>>52334237
>>52334197
>>52334141
>>52334089
Were are all these helpfull anons when i have questions!

Still cant paint yellow for the life of me
>>
>>52332847
Orange to match grooves.
Your work so far is excellent anon, you will be fine
>>
>>52334357
>>52334399
What i am refering to btw is when people throw down two tan colors and call it a day

>doom eagles
Fuck mate i dont see enough people playing that chapter
>>
>>52334313
Because the light of the Emperor shines on the righteous.

I did try, but it ended horribly. I plan to leave them for now and re-visit the flesh when I can paint skin tones better.
>>
>>52332847
Orange

Do a gradiant
>>
What exactly is Lahmian Medium? Are there any other products like it?
>>
>>52334445
>Fuck mate i dont see enough people playing that chapter
He's not actually playing them. A few threads ago he randomly rolled which chapter to paint a spare marine.
>>
>>52334594

It is acrylic medium. Any acrylic medium that isn't "acrylic matte medium" or "acrylic gloss medium" will do the job. I use Vallejo Thinner Medium instead. Liquitex has some too.
>>
>>52334621
That wasn't me.

I have a full Demi-Comapny and Armored Task Force of Doom Eagles. Had them for months.
>>
>>52334697
Post pics. /tg/ needs more rare chapters pics and not a million space yiffs/GKs.
>>
>>52334715
>>52334445

Doom Eagles dump incoming. give me a bit.
>>
Captain Salock Varren, leading the Doom Eagles 3rd Company. Posing gloriously after a battle against the insidious Tau.
>>
>>52334763
Fuck me m8 im so slow when painting, ive been painting this assault squad for over a week now
>>
>>52334697
My apologies then. What a coincidence!
>>
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Taking a dive into mediocrety for a second, would you guys take a look at this model I'm assembling? Taping up before the final gluing. Is this a decent pose?
>>
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>>52334357
>>52334697
>>52334724
>>52334763
Patrician choice of chapter my man.
>>
>>52334864
I paint heaps in one go, I'm not terribly consistent.
>>
>>52334924
Woe Betide, brother.
>>
>>52334916
Looks fine to me. But remember, no flash, and crop and resize your pictures. Flash is always worse.
>>
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>>52334724
>>52334763
>>52334925
>>52334357
Thanks for the dump m8. I love seeing non-standard chapters posted.
>>
>>52334951
We are Doom Eagles...
>>
>>52334959
Promise I'll do better next time.

Thanks!
>>
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>>52334979
Thanks mate, here's a collage of my recent work. Guardsman being the latest.
>>
Almost forgot my librarians!

The banner guy is Chief Librarian Tolkca, a counts as Tigirus. The other guy is a standard libby and I have a 3rd guy but he's on sprue at the moment.
>>
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A friend and I are slowly putting our armies together.
>>
>>52335110
>they're blue

I told you guys that blue reads immediately as a Librarian.
>>
I transferred my GW paint to droppers. The metallic ones separate into a grey liquid and the bulk of the paint. It didn't used to be an issue but now that liquid likes to hide in the top and not mix no matter how much I shake

How do I fix that?
>>
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Just finished these. I'll take a better pic tomorrow after I clean all the mess on my table.
>>
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So what are the plastic sheets that you're supposed to use to build custom stuff?

I'm getting back into model painting after a few years and I want to try making some custom bases and weapons.
>>
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>>52335306
You mean greenstuff?
>>
>>52335306
Plasticard
>>
>>52335306
Plasticard. You can get it deirt cheap on ebay/amazon, even textured ones if you look well.
>>
>>52335298
shame the backpack dingles are so fragile, they look a lot nicer pointing in the same direction as the model's head
>>
>>52335346
>>52335374
>>52335382
Thanks. Is it difficult to sand? Any tips on thickness?
>>
>>52335306

Polystyrene card stock/sheets
>>
>>52335282

I dropped glass beads in my droppers. The non AoS GW metallics are thick as fuck so I put plenty of thinner in the dropper too. The extra mass of liquid helps mix it too
>>
>>52335408
Well I don't even know what are those supposed to be. Are they like some sort of scanner or something?
>>
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Muddying up my friends BAneblade. Tried a new effect with flicking typhus corrosion onto the sides at an angle to make a natural effect and then applied stirland mud by hand to the lowest parts
>>
>>52335506
Glass bead idea is a good one
>>
>>52335282
I use magnetic beads, so I can place a magnet on the bottom and have the bead away from the dropper opening so it doesn't stop flow.
>>
>>52335282
I went for small stainless steel hex nuts as agitators.
>>
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looks like Arjac's shield gonna be sporting a little wear and tear.
>>
>>52335382
>plasticard on amazon.ca is 5x as expensive as amazon.com
Our dollar isn't THAT bad! I hate living in Leafland sometimes.
>>
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>>52335110
love them, always nice to see less famous chapters being used in armies


I'm in the process of writing up my own army (color scheme pic related) and am using rules for the space wolves to reflect their close combat tendencies but no wolf shit (thunderwolf calvary, wulfen, santa logan in the douche canoe etc.)

I'm trying to decide if i should paint my librarians the standard blue, incorporate the blue only in certain areas similar to how >>52335110 did it, or use an entirely different scheme.

I was thinking possibly doing a mostly bronze scheme for the librarians librarians to differentiate them but I'm not certain
>>
>>52335298
How do you get such smooth shading on the white?
>>
>>52334331
>The key to any kind of varnish is moderation and low humidity.
>low humidity.
I live in Florida. Fuck my hobby life.
>>
>>52335529
I think they're targeters/shoulder cameras, sort of like what the terminators and storm troopers have.
>>
>>52335822
I would certainly include some blue on them but it might be a good idea if it's a custom chapter to include their colours too. Similar to how I've done my Librarians.
>>
>>52335533

Looks great anon, just like your triple dubs.
>>
vallejo primer just flakes off. What's meant to be good about this?
>>
>>52335890
I used my airbrush to get the basic blending, then using a regular brush I outlined the details and painted the deepest shadows.

>>52335963
I think I can bend them a bit, I'll try tomorrow, anyway there should be no problem cutting them at the base and gluing in the correct direction.
>>
>>52336067
Did you wash your minis before priming?
>>
>>52336080
I did not.
>>
>>52336067
Nothing really.
>>
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>>52336073
I mean, there's always the aliens excuse of leaving them fixed in place.
>>
>>52336067
You are applying it too thick. Try to lay down a thin coat, you don't really need to evenly cover everything, it's primer, not a basecoat.
>>
>>52336115
yea fuck this. Back to rattlecans.
>>
>>52336109
Do that. Most minis have a very thin layer of release agent on them to keep them from sticking to their molds during casting. Just scrub em a bit with a soapy tooth brush and running water before priming. You'll feel a difference.
>>
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>>52336169
>choosing rattle cans over vallejo grey primer

what fucking planet are you from?
>>
>>52336333
I only recently took the plunge with an airbrush so this is new to me but I'm used to some durability. I'll wash the plastic next go round.
>>
>>52336391
here a couple tips

1.) you may need to thin it to get it to flow right
2.) you only need to lightly coat the model, its ok if you see some of the plastic through it, only apply a lot if you are going to be painting light colors
3.) make sure the model is washed
4.) make sure your psi is not too high, i never go above 20 even for painting vehicles, use even lower pressure if you are using anything smaller than a .3 nozzle.
>>
>>52335408
now you say it
>>
>>52336421
thanks
>>
>>52336333
Vallejo primer takes way too long to cure

AP aerosol dries as it hits the model. Just decant into airbrush cup

Or use stynylrez instead of Vallejo. All the pros use Vallejo but the thing is they don't touch their models after they're done and they didn't tell you that they waited days after priming before editing the rest of the tutorial together
>>
>>52336461
How many days are we talking?
>>
>>52335298
I like the models, but I literally cannot get over how fucking stupid eldar guns look

>>52336461
I paint maybe 10 minutes after I prime, if you have an airbrush there is no reason to not prime with it, it preserves so much of the detail and you can do a lot more touchy things with it like pre shading that you cannot do with a rattle can


>>52336483
dont listen to him
>>
>>52336067
Vallejo primer really isn't that durable and requires weeks to fully cure to begin with. It's highly overrated. But most airbrush primers aren't as durable as spray primers because the aerosol and chemical bonding/etching is what makes spray primers so scratch proof.

Just be more careful with brush primers until the model is finished and sealed, and give Vallejo primer a good 24-48 hours to dry. You definitely can't just paint over it in a few hours like you can with some spray primers.
>>
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>>52330201

>Men with thick wireframe glasses and actual children post here
>>
>>52336495

You can still preshade after using rattle primers or non Vallejo airbrush primers you fucking mongoloid
Even vallejos own website and official Spanish tutorials says you need to wait way longer than 10 minutes so fuck you saying not to listen to others when you're this fucking clueless and wrong
>>
Odd request. Can someone post a picture of a Coronus nacelle next to a Land raider? I'm thinking about doing a 'hover-raider' conversion.
>>
>>52336550
I wear thick frame plastic glasses because they look good on my face and it's what the military issued us so I got used to the switch from metal wire to thick plastic.

I wear Oakleys these days, but I'm still a single, childless bachelor despite my fabulous eyewear.
>>
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>>52336579
>pre shading using rattle cans


HAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAH

this is some next level retardation. rattle cans are thick as fuck and make preshading fucing worthless

>mongoloid
go back to /pol/
>>
>>52336626
>go back to /pol/
Do you also get triggered when people use the -fag suffix? Perhaps imgur is more your style.
>>
>>52336626
seems like him calling you a fucking mongoloid was pretty accurate
>>
>>52336626
>after
>>
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Hey, what do ya'll think of my crisis suits?
>>
>>52336843
look like some orks have had their way with them
>>
>>52336626

Learn to spray

>after = with

Learn to read too

You know what, even with your retarded fuckup, you're still wrong. You can find people preshading using white and black cans via zeniths all over YouTube and google
>>
>>52336843
Okish for a first time miniature
>>
>>52335533
it's a good look
>>
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>>52336716
Not the same guy but to be fair i painted this rhine about 20 minutes after priming and it turned out just fine


And ya the turret is not finished, still need to matt finish it
>>
>>52336843
>those decals just stickered on
Oh lord
>>
>>52336843
>paint outside the lines
>THICC paint on stripes
>decals plastered on and crooked
>no shading, wash, or highlights
>bases single colour slapped over sand
Is this bait?
>>
>>52337024
At least he's painting his Tau.
>>
>>52337055
At some point there's a line where unpainted is better.
>>
>>52336843
>That burst cannon that isn't glued together at the end
Christ m80
>>
>>52336906
Properly done osl gives me a hard on

I wish i could do this
>>
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>>52337024
>Is this bait?

It's a trick ... get an axe!
>>
>>52336843
Sweet Jesus, Anon.
>>
>>52337319
>properly done
>that
shiggidy diggity anon, thats some awaken realms shit right there, and i dont mean that in a good way
>>
>>52337517
i dont know i kinda like it, im sure the light and shitty photo make it hard to see.
>>
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i hate working with greenstuff
>>
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>>52337588
i hate making capes too
>>
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It's a little thick and could be smoother but I think i'm off to a good start with Durthu's sword
>>
Still so much to paint before I can play. I'm losing the will to do it for more than a few hours at a time.
>>
>>52337886
i usually dont spend more than 3 hours of painting at a time, its normal

W>>52337886
when i was on adderal for my adhd i could take that shit and pain literally all day.
>>
>>52337588
Much respect, but idk how you do it. All that sticking just frustrates the hell out of me.

>>52337613
That's really nice, man.
>>
Someone show me their conversions. I just bought some bits for a project and I wanna get the juices flowing.
>>
>>52337963
>people with adhd visits /wip/
That explains a lot.
>>
>>52337963
I used to not need adderal for that, though.

And I usually can't do anything (read, play a game, work) for more than a few hours straight before going nuts
>>
>>52338067
You'll still make a lot of progress working a few hours at a time if you do it consistently. I don't know how anyone can do more without getting burned out.
>>
Is it bad if imperial primer scratches off? Or if I paint over it will things be okay?
>>
>>52338228
Yes it is bad, try washing your mini before priming with dish soap.
>>
>>52338282
THe pot I bought had the consistency of paint, but the ones I've had in the past were just chunky with little bubbly parts in them. They applied fine. Is it the pot?
>>
>>52330907
You know what you could do to make them really pop?

Take some ryza and mix it with some typhus corrosion, make a dark rush, give em a drybrush.
>>
How good would a blending of eldar wraith constructs with sylvaneth tree people kits look for a sort of exodite force of "wraith wood" enforcers?
>>
>>52337583
What about how the light seems to be passing through solid matter and shining onto the tops and sides of the headlamp enclosures?
>>
>>52338282
You prime your minis with dish soap?
>>
Kinda wish I didn't paint my Tau red

Sure they look nice. But I'm drowning under a sea of red decals I can't really use.
>>
>>52330201
it's well-painted but the color scheme sucks ass
>>
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Working on my homebrew chapter, can't decide whether to keep the helmet white or just the shoulder pads.

The white obviously needs to be shaded and highlighted, but I want to decide on the helmet first.

White or blue helmets, tg?
>>
>>52339753
White might break the monotony up a bit.

>Mfw I forgot to buy fucking putty before getting ready to do my B@C dudes
>So they're just the good old "fully assembled except for their weapons"
>>
Asked in the aosg thread, but anyone have any suggestions for Ironjawz/Bonesplitterz terrain/scenery? Only shit I got is an idol to Gork, maybe a hut, a totem pole, and a supply cart drawn by a gore-grunta.
>>
>>52339753

Could do white helmets for sergeants/commanders.
>>
>>52339753
could try for white shoulderpads and kneepads, and white helmets for sergeants.
>>
>>52339753
I like the scheme with white helms. What might be cool and unique is for Sargeants to have a blue stripe down center of helm kinda like in rogue trader schemes.
>>
>>52333840
The minotaur head sits where it does for a reason anon, though I love the idea. I think to make it look right you're going to need a lot of sculpting or to set the head lower.
>>
>>52339753
I'm a huge fan of the right hand flat shoulderpad being white with the rest of the model (aside from the helm, if it's a veteran) being blue. The purpose being chapter iconography is put on the flat shoulder. I'd personally make only the inset white.
>>
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>>52339753
You're getting awfully close to the Storm Wardens color scheme.
>>
>>52337588
The bent leg knee bit looks a bit off, otherwise very pretty.
>>
>>52339753
White pads and helmet. Maybe the sergeants could have a red stripe?
>>
>>52339642
Thats the Nihilakh Dynasty colour scheme though... the best Dynasty
>>
>>52336550
Not everyone here is an autistic NEET. I come here for the truthful critiques. Posting on facebook or Dakka is just an echo chamber of 'wow thats really awesome' because you washed something with agrax. Whereas if something is shit, /tg/ will say so.
>>
>>52340408
>the best Dynasty
>Nihilakh
You seem to have misspelled Thokt.
>>
Wee woo, back at it. Yeh, I know :/ drybrush/10 for the most part, but fuck this model lol.
>>
>>52340430
Facebook is honestly better if you're looking for decent critique. 4chan is basic bitch painting.
>>
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>>52340476
>>52340476
And of course I'm a fuckin idiot.
>>
>>52340476
>using emojis on 4chinz
apply gun to self
>>
>>52340503
You seem really cool. Can you teach me to be cool as you?
>>
>>52340503
epically dank and lit my fellow sponer U+1F603
>>
>>52340486
IF I had to imagine him making a noise, it'd be a very deep and somewhat slow "Huehuehuehuehuehue"
>>
>>52340221
thanks mang

though im not sure what i want to do with that knee, maybe end up trimming it down a bit
>>
>>52340514
>>52340556
Fuck off
>>
>>52340567
>>52340486
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRdv88uuoJU
>>
>>52340673
Nah man, that's too screechy and inhuman. the sound I was thinking of would be disturbingly human but also something else
Think a brazillian with a deep voice
>>
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>>52340728
>female voice, to mimic the angler fish lure
>>
>>52339636

FARSIGHT ENCLAVES HAS NO USE FOR SEPT MARKINGS
>>
Anyone else paint blood ravens before? Any tips?
>>
>>52340961
Typing
>paint blood ravens
into YouTube will help you a thousand times more than anything that can be said here.
>>
>>52340961
Blood ravens are a hard bunch to paint as, at least in the states, you can neither get a reliable source of ravens, nor blood to paint them with
>>
>>52341014
What are you talking about? Western USA is lousy with ravens and he's literally full of blood. It'll be fine.
>>
>>52340961
Iraqui sand from Vallejo has pretty much perfect coverage
>>
>>52340486
that thing is fucking creepy. Nice work anon.
>>
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Greenstuff sculpting is a meme. You can use it to fill in certain parts of a conversion and create stuff that doesn't have detail like capes, but sculpting armor, weapons etc. is worse than getting your testicles sanded
>>
>>52333425
High Elves have various pieces that can be attached to their helmets, some of them being feather plumes. Empire has some as well, though I think they're all more or less attached to the helmets.
>>
>>52341195
>but sculpting armor, weapons etc. is worse than getting your testicles sanded
Maybe you just suck at it.
Anyway weapons are easier to sculpt with something harder anyway. Milliput is good. At least for blades and the like. For the details on the handle you could go back to GS.

If you got a specific problem maybe someone can help you. If you just want to broadcast your frustration, well, nobody starts out a golden demon winning painter either. Practice makes perfect.
>>
>>52340961

Callum?
>>
how does wip prefer to paint camo cloaks?

Do you try to make them seem like invisibility cloaks, or more like real life camo patterns?
>>
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Just got done with a noise marine unit.
>>
>>52341494
James?
>>
>>52341603
that looks rather nice.
Nice reposing on the legs
>>
>>52341524
depends on the unit/model

If we're talking space marine camo cloaks, then i would attempt something like real life camo pattern, while for stealth suits or other suitably high-tech unit, i'd go for cloaking effect
>>
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And so the chassis of my 3d printed dunecrawler is completed.
The legs will be for next week.
>>
>>52341664
Space marine scouts, specifically imperial fists.

I try to make my models part of the seige of terra battle from 30k, so maybe a camo pattern for industrial setting?
>>
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>>52341685
Just paint them gold, they'll blend right in.
>>
>>52341719
Hah, well I don't want them to have their fluff-typical death wish
>>
>>52341724
A death wish? Painting themselves gold on TERRA?
Nobody'd fucking see them. Seriously.
>>
>>52341736
I mean for when I take them to play on tabletop, they will stick out like a sore thumb.

I haven't been able to get into basing yet, so I can't exactly make the environment gold
>>
>>52341603
>Right leg on the one in the middle
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH
>>
>>52341682
Too translucid can't really opinate
>>
>>52341781
I'll post better pics once I have it primed.
>>
>>52341618
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJkzmgPUBhQ
>>
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>>52341654
Ty, I much prefer standing marines to squatting marines- they fit the new 32mm bases very well too.

>>52341767
>tfw the guy who made this post has a totally unconverted unpainted army with mold lines
Haters gonna hate.
>>
>>52342265
Where is that marine from the right from?.
>>
>>52342351
He's a conversion consisting of kitbashing chaos warriors, chaos space marines, and chaos raptors.
>>
>>52342265
>>52342351
>>52342370
And the legs? Sorry I should of specified he's so amazing taller compared to the marine could you take a shot of them flat on the ground.
>>
>>52342265

>dude that leg looks a bit ganky
>"h-h-haters gonna hate"

/wip/ works both ways mate, don't be a silly dickhead.
>>
>>52342392
Yeah, Ill do that. And thank you so much. Theres no kit for those legs, I hacked them apart with a razor, pinned them, and then reposed them. I do it to all my marines, because once youve seen marines with correctly posed legs theres no going back, gimme a sec to take a pic, I just put all my lighting away so it wont be high quality.
>>
>>52342412
>Dont be a silly dickhead
>Unless you're me, then its ok
kys
>>
>>52342440

I'm neither of you, the guy was just pointing it out and I do agree with him, I think it warrants a more polite response.

Also you need more light in your pictures, unless you're trying to hide something.
>>
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>>52333425
>>52341259
>Empire has some as well, though I think they're all more or less attached to the helmets.

Some Empire models *used* to have separate plumes, too. That's how I converted the headdress on this Lucretia Belladonna model to have so many... but whatever kit I got them from has probably been OOP for over a decade.
>>
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>>52340165
The odd placement of the head is on purpose as I want him to have a hunchback.
>>
>>52342392
Here ya go, sorry for shit lighting and quality, camera didnt wanna cooperate and I already put the lighting away.

>>52342462
Enjoy your horribly scaled squatting marines I guess and enjoy having your marines all in dumb poses then? Also heres the gallery of the whole new squad, front and backlit for you http://imgur.com/a/Ivt8M
>>
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>>52342690
>>
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Finally found the energy to finish my whipping boy. Beware white guys, he's coming for reperations.
>>
>>52342702
I love your movies, Mr J Fox
>>
How does retributor armour compare to the older balthasar/gehenna's/auric combo?
And what is the basecoat spray good for apart from Custodes and Sigmarines?
Convince me to spend €20 on the stuff.
>>
>>52342265
>>52341603
>>52342690

Man, you should have just posted your models and kept quiet. Jesus fucking Christ you're one cringe-inducing autist.
>>
>>52342936
>Post unfound criticism and call people autistic when they tell you you're full of shit
>>
Help me /tg/ , i love converting and building models but when it comes to painting them i dont like it even though i am not bad at it. My room is full of grey plastic hordes.
What should i do ?
>>
>>52343200
They're all perfect, whatever you do is top tier job, any criticism is an insult so we avoid those.
>>
>>52331106
Fucking MS PAINT
>>
>>52343200
Only build new models as a reward for painting old ones. Alternately, toss some of that shit up on ebay to make some room if you're not playing with them.
>>
>>52343200
Shut up, sit down, start painting.
>>
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Tiny Servitors for my renegades. It's a shame I don't have more Gnoblar bodies; it's tempting to make a couple more of these guys to count as servo-skulls.
>>
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how did i do on his skin, first time i tried airbrushing skin
>>
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>>52343620
another angle
somehow the light sucks of much color and he appears a bit more pale compared under daylight (i got a daylight bulb though)
>>
>they don't drink their paint water to take the essence of painting into their bodies
>>
what vallejo airbrush thinner ratio to regular citadel or game/model? Ballpark.
>>
>>52343620
Needs more shading/highlights.
>>
>>52343620
>>52343647
A bit more shading, it's a very flat look right now.
>>
>>52329482
Can someone please explain how all the gw models and stuff have such smoothe gradients and thin highlights? I can't figure any of this out and I keep ruining my sylvaneth models with my awful paint. :(
>>
>>52343738
>>52343790
if i want to shade i wont do it with airbrush because i think i would damage the look more than improve it. if i do it with a wash however, does the airbrush effect gets lost? maybe a thinn wash
>>
>>52343716
Try somewhere around a third thinner to 50/50 maybe at first? And then just start adjusting according to the results, and as you go form pot to pot of the paints.
>>
>>52342758
i loled
>>
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>>52342619
It's a nice idea, but typically a hunchback's head is still lower on their body. Their spine is arched over, creating the hunch. He looks cool anon, I just think he would look better constructed with his head set right.
>>
File: 1457643598208.png (105KB, 798x519px) Image search: [Google]
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>>52343370
>>52343385

I will play with them. Eventually. Maybe if i buy everything i need and be satisfied i can than start painting.... what can go wrong, right?
>>
>>52340596
It's a toughy, it almost looks as though the upper leg piece is shorter than the regular pieces, so maybe extend and rebuild the lip so it's nearer the knee pad?

Alternatively cut the knee pad off and rebuild somewhere between the two leg pieces. Great work so far though anon, keep it up.
>>
>sprue join on top of backpack stabilisers

what did they mean by this?
>>
>>52335298
damn these looks slick. great scheme.

>>52337730
agreed.

>>52342725
this will look great on table. love the basing.
>>
>>52343022

>unfounded criticism

Mate, there's more than one of us replying to you. Nice work overall, but a couple of those knee joints where they've been cut are a bit suspect and would maybe do with trimming or smoothing out if they hadn't already been decently painted.

I know people can be rude rather than constructive at times on /wip/, but when it is honest feedback, take it like an adult please.
>>
File: IMG_5486.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]
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I just started painting minis,so this is my first finished one,from the Space Marine starter set.I thinned my paints and used shading,but I wanted to know what I could improve.The image quality may not be that good though.
>>
>>52344688
Your next step is to re-apply the base paint over the sections you've shaded, avoiding recesses (lines in the armour, the deepest parts of the aquila etc). You can also clean up messy areas at this point. Then, highlight with a lighter colour, if you're feeling confident.
>>
File: 1490376350738-131715706.jpg (2MB, 3264x1836px) Image search: [Google]
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Nearly done with my fully magnatized predator / thino

Everything that needs to come off to switch between the two is magnatized and i am nearly done with the turret

Thoughts?
>>
What do you use for magnet drilling, anons? I have a regular hand drill and power tools, obviously, but I imagine I need something particular? Working on making my Knight weapon-swappable.
>>
>>52344688
Watch the video guides by Duncan.
>>
File: 14903766267531266051833.jpg (2MB, 3264x1836px) Image search: [Google]
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>>52345104
Every
Fucking
Time
>>
>>52345127
No just a drill is fine

I magnatized this dude with a hand drill, i prefer to use 1/8 th inch magnets
>>52345167
>>
File: rps20170324_183042.jpg (75KB, 597x597px) Image search: [Google]
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FINALLY managed to work some more on my dude's Power Mace. Gave the suggestion of making the skull more Servo-Skull-y and I do think I like it.

Thought on it? Imagine the putty stuff being replaced by greenstuff.
>>
>>52345184
My magnets are a little bigger than that, but I imagine it will work decently. Got some greenstuff to fill in anyway, so the pointed drill bit won't matter anywhere. Thanks, anon. Waist magnets worked well, but I didn't have to drill anything there.
>>
>>52345202
I like it

I gave the sugestion for that to be a servo skull, and you did exactly what i omagined

Thumbs up
>>
>>52345167
Good job on the magnetisation. Some of those gaps are quite big though. I don't like the osl too. The problem you've got is that the actual lamps should be the brightest part and they aren't, compounded by the fact that they are in alcoves which means they will always be in shadow.
>>
>>52345248
Thanks for that suggestion. Just now need to figure out how to get that greenstuff down as a flush metal surface and figure out a transition between metal and bone. Was thinking of possible just glueing a bunch of small wires on it, not sure though.
>>
>>52345167
massive mold line on the gunners arm and on the gun.
I think you need to be a bit more subtle with the OSL as well, seems like it goes on for far too long.
>>
>>52345309
Ya he lamp im using drowns it out and is hard to see the osl properly
>>
>>52345309
>panel

This was the first model i ever assembled years ago when i got into the hobby, just re painted it due to its shitty paint job, so the panel gaps are there unfortunatly
>>
File: 20150801_235916.jpg (4MB, 5312x2988px) Image search: [Google]
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>>52345474
Pic related is what it used to look like
>>
File: really tilts my almonds.jpg (90KB, 499x525px) Image search: [Google]
really tilts my almonds.jpg
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>mfw assembling a guard's autocannon
Should I assemble the gun and paint it before stucking it to the base, and then position the gunner behind ? That seems the best to do but I don't want to mess that up. I already feel like stucking the gunner's hands on the cannon is gonna be annoying
>>
>>52345649
Just fully assemble the model and paint carefully
>>
>>52345738
Yeah but if I glue the gunner and gun immediately it will be a nightmare to paint. Legs and front will be a pain to get
>>
>>52336333
Do you airbrush the vallejo grey primer or brush it on?
>>
>>52345649
Just do sensible sub assemblies and don't listen to the one rusemaster that keeps telling people to paint fully assembled.
>>
>>52335298
HHHHHHNNNNNNNNNNNNNNGHH/10
>>
>>52345886
Alright, let's do it
>>
>>52345869
Airbrush
>>
File: chimera1.jpg (105KB, 1233x925px) Image search: [Google]
chimera1.jpg
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First attempt ever at painting a vehicle, I think it looks alright.

Is it alright?
>>
>>52346118
Looks OK.
This might just be me but IMO the black stripes are a bit too black, would look better if they were a teeny bit lighter.
>>
>>52335533
You're right on the edge of "too much mud spatter" which means it's pretty much perfect. The only nitpick is that fresh mud (nice job on the gloss, by the way) will be darker when it's wet and lightens as it dries, whereas your fresh mud and spatter are the other way around.
>>
Is this a passable Mk.II/III power plant? I could just buy some Mk.III packs off ebay but I had some old Berzerker bits around that look the part and I was in a creative mood.

>bonus points to canny modellers who know how I made the nozzles
>>
File: IMAG1623.jpg (935KB, 1520x2688px) Image search: [Google]
IMAG1623.jpg
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>>52341682
There we go, 3d printed dunecrawler chassis now primed.
>>
>>52346402
>giant diagonal seam line
What the hell happened there? And why the FUCK didn't you file it down?
>>
File: 1402010272221.jpg (7KB, 296x198px) Image search: [Google]
1402010272221.jpg
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>>52346402
>primed
>didn't remove the cast/mold lines/irregularities

explain yourself
>>
>>52346428
This was mostly done as a test piece for print resolution, so I couldn't be arsed.
But I'm not totally sure what caused it, probably an interuption in the print.
>>
>>52346443
Not that guy, but a noob with a rhino that has the lines. How do you fix it?
>>
File: removing mold lines.jpg (97KB, 1064x578px) Image search: [Google]
removing mold lines.jpg
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>>52346556
You take a hobby knife, or something sharp and you scrape it, like in pic related.

If it's a gap, then you might want to fill it with green stuff or liquid green stuff.
>>
>>52346556
>>52346582
here's a basic tutorial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F4-uOVScTgc
>>
>>52346582
>>52346605
Thanks, it's the gaps I have problems with. Is green stuff just modelling putty?
>>
>>52346625
An overpriced one, yeah.
>>
>>52346625
Get Kneadatite, same shit but way cheaper.
>>
File: Au'taal Sept.png (256KB, 418x366px) Image search: [Google]
Au'taal Sept.png
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>>52340831
Did you just assume my Sept, shitlord?

Tauggered
>>
>>52339753
White helmet and pads. Might even give white gloves

Have seen similar paint arrangement but having the Left shoulder the same as the rest, but trimmed out in the Right's color.
>>
>>52346842
But those are clearly orange not red...
>>
>>52340567
>>52340673
>>52340728
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCkK1AqsIAI
>>
>>52345975
Alright, cheers. I gotta invest in one sometime, how are they priced if you know?
>>
File: 20170324_153451~01.jpg (216KB, 1280x720px) Image search: [Google]
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>>
>>52346582
I always use the not shart part to remove mould lines, so upside down basically. Is this retarded or does anybody else do it?
>>
>>52346266

Looks good to me anon! Are those push pin heads?
>>
>>52348133
Nope, here's pack #2 and a clue as to how fiddly this technique is.
>>
>>52348094
I do that as well for mold lines. Works well.
>>
>>52348094
That works well on flash but if there's a mold line from the dies not perfectly lining up it takes a bit more carving to get it smooth.
>>
>>52346266
The vents look too long for my taste
>>
>>52346402
Looks pretty fcuking good fucking good for a 3d printed (which model?), but sand that seam line
>>
I should avoid painting base coats over other base coats right? Asking because I want to do a camo pattern.

Also, I accidentally bought some paint where it looks like the medium separated from the actual paint bits; is it still usable if I stir it up and such?
>>
>>52348873
>Also, I accidentally bought some paint where it looks like the medium separated from the actual paint bits; is it still usable if I stir it up and such?
Normally yeah. I can't think of a paint that won't get back to working condition with a good enough shake. Throw in a small bead as an agitator to get the pot shaken up easier.
>>
>>52348750
Good to hear

>>52348802
Yeah, I've found that out as well
>>
>>52348345
You heat up some plastic rod and squeeze it in the middle?
>>
>>52348836
It's the remains of the 'wing' extensions spacing the vents too far apart, and the cylindrical bulge on top of the pack isn't as big as actual Mk.II/III packs. They're for a 40k force, paired with some Kromlech legs that are segmented like Mk.II armour, so it only really has to be reasonably close to resemble Mk.II that's been heavily modified over 10 millenia.
>>
>>52348946
The trick is to actually gently pull from both ends, squeezing won't get properly conical shapes. I got the idea from Tamiya tank kits recommending a similar technique on a piece of their sprue to make antennas.
>>
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>>52348015
Honestly only get an airbrush if you are really serious because even a half decent one costs atleadt over 100 just for he brush

Dont get those 30 dollar master brushes, they arent worth the money

I got the badger krome for about 110 bucks and nvever regretted it
Also what does tg think of my plan? I got this shitty rhino at a garage sale for 5 bucks and am gonna make some battle terrain with it, im thinking of shooting it with birdshot

Thoughts?
>>
File: 1490393578868-129229020.jpg (3MB, 3264x1836px) Image search: [Google]
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>>52349326
Last chance before i shoot this bitch
>>
>>52349446
do it fgt
>>
>>52349446
DO IT FAGGOT
>>
>>52349326
>>52349446
>samoas instead of the superior thinmint
Disgusting.

Now perform that action, you homosexual.
>>
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Just assembled a dragoon and in the rules they get a free cover +5 cover save for having an incense cloud.

How do i get this effect without like glueing cotton all over it.
>>
File: 14903945645091266051833.jpg (2MB, 3264x1836px) Image search: [Google]
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>>52349495
>>52349532
>>52349577

Done and done, and im happy with the results

The plastic is hard enough that it actually stoped a few pellets

It actually looks shot up, becausr it is
>>
File: 1490394682784-533132346.jpg (2MB, 3264x1836px) Image search: [Google]
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>>52349698
Some more pics
>>
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>>52349698
>>52349720
>he said birdshot and I expected pic related
>>
>>52349775
Well each pellet is about the size of a bolter round
>>
>>52349698
>>52349720
Huh, I thought the entire thing would shatter. But that actually looks workable.
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