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WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Thread replies: 359
Thread images: 93

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No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!! May Saint Duncan's thin layers protect us!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>In the face of death, I shall have no remorse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_ZgyNoHtjw

>Previous Threads:
>>51295740
>>51252479
>>51234823
>>51214014
>>51192478
>>51274151
>>
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Reposting
How does the red look, and should I go for an extra highlight on the red?
And just the red, holy shit it's called wipg for a reason, everything else just has a wash
>>
>>51312804
I forgot to add I still need to do a touch up wash, just looking at the highlight quality
>>
>>51312804
>>51312447
Paints are smooth, black and flesh works well with the red, but needs some contrast on the armour to break it up.

Inking the recesses and putting bone on the glyphs and picking out spikes might do a lot though.
>>
>>51312804
What this anon said >>51312850
A green or something on the tips of spikes/blades would look neato too
>>
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>>51312850
>>51312943
Thanks guys.
Im bascially following this scheme, on a .jpg it looks alright, but im unsure if grey red black with flesh is enough contrast
>>
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LED knight anon here.
It turns out I've lost the shoulder joint for my knight, but I still have the other joint.
How easy would it be to recast pic-related?
>>
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>>51312966
Well the example is a fully saturated dark red highlighted to a pale red/magenta with bright mirror polish silver

You own work is a much paler less saturated red and a darker metal as well, so there's be noticeable difference and the contrast will be weaker.
>>
>>51312984
Fairly easy, if you used a 2-part mold and drilled the hole.
>>
WIP on my Primus Medicae. Id say this part is pretty much done, but free to suggestions
>>
>>51313177
Nice stealthsuit, anon
>>
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>>51313177
Aaaand forgot pic
>>
>>51313225
Some whit dots or lines on the blood vials to make them shiny and clean up the spots where the metal bled onto the white
>>
>>51313225
>2592x4608

fuck off
>>
>>51313334
No u
>>
>>51313334

Get a better connection, shitlord.
>>
twenty posts in and its straight to shitposting
get it together /wip/, i'm dissapointed.
>>
>>51307566
A wash you say? The ones I found were either drybrushed (as in the pic) or airbrushed. Looks like there are more interesting options to consider with Pentart Metallic Teal.
>>
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how are we going on this, wip? i've nearly finished the boxed game one.
>>
Has anyone ever added joints to a model? Not a magnet, but like action figure joints.

I have access to a 3D printer and files for replacement ball / swivel joints for toys. I figure I could scale them and use them in place of magnets (for posing, not swapping)

I was planning on trying it on a knight I never put together. I don't know how well a filament joint will hold up though
>>
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>>51313225
Sheer size makes it hard to judge it as a miniature, makes it look like a splotchy hackjob an dis suspect you lighting is making the medical displays appear overbright.

Anyways, his mask and chest armour need stringer division to keep from visually blurring together

Thin cable is hard to tell if it's highlighted or has splotches form the apron

White in general can use a layer/glaze to even out.

Not sold on the hair either, you're alsready heavy on grown/gold
>>
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>>51313389
>>51313343
I don't have a problem with my internet, I have a problem with a shitty picture that's so big and so zoomed in, that I can't even see it on my fucking screen.

Resize your images you fucking twat.
>>
>>51313100
I guess ill try this, What paint would be best for this basecoat green? (Warboss, Caliban, Waaagh flesh, etc
>>
>>51313415
Meaning it's Pentars with a blue wash on top.
>>
>>51313484
Personally I'd use white and wash green.
>>
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>>51313206
>Nice stealthsuit, anon

Where? I don't see any stealthsuit.
>>
>>51313515
Is the result for that even good?
Literally white, green wash, white dot?
>>
>>51313478
Resize yours bigger. Your tiny image offends and assblasts me, like your grossly overblown, post-assault style PTSD.
>>
>>51313566
You don't always need the white dot as the wash will be thinner in the centre and pool at the edges.

It's good enough for me, but I'm the lazy sort that's do that, or solid colour with a dot of gloss varnish as gems/eyes/lenses
>>
>>51313478

People are gonna keep doing it no matter how much you shit up the thread throwing your bitch fit. You clearly understand that you can see the image size before clicking on it. Maybe just stop clicking on it.
>>
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Started on one of the many swamp monsters that I need to get painted.
Debating on adding pupils, probably won't though as I think it'll take away from the eyes.
>>
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Bloodaxe Runtherda basically done. Need to grab some squig orange for the squig's highlights and a blue glaze for the ball on the prodder and I can be done with it.
>>
>>51313743
>those eyes

"HYUCK HYUCK HYUCK"
>>
>>51313735
>Maybe just stop clicking on it

If your photography is so retarded that people basically have to look at the thumbnail and avoid enlarging it, then maybe you should change your photography? Not opening images defeats the entire purpose of this thread. Do you think people post their photos to have people NOT open them?
>>
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Still working on this big boy
Should I paint the central prism's structure Black?
>>
>>51313745
That camo really works.
>>
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>>51313847
Did you already glue in the central prism, can't tell it the case is actually glued on.

Cause the gem'd it'd benefit from a gloss coat or a more saturated red.
>>
>>51313921
i have only basecoated the prisms
>>
>>51313819

I'm not the one posting it, and I'm not saying it's acceptable. What I'm saying is that this has been going on forever, and no amount of complaining has ever had any impact on it.

Adding your complaining on top of the thousand others who have come before you isn't going to help any more than theirs did, so you might as well just leave it alone because the only thing you're accomplishing is adding one more shit fit on top of all the others in these threads, and we don't need it.
>>
>>51313981

And I'm not the one complaining about it.
>>
>>51313981
People like you need to be dragged out in the street and shot. Not only are you guilty of the same shit you are complaining about, but you're advocating the stupidest, most non-effective form of change of all: doing nothing. You are easily the most worthless faggot in this thread, even more worthless than the whiners and the dumb newfags posting shit photos.
>>
>>51313981
People are gonna shit on the floor anyway so why bother telling them not to.
>>
>>51313864
Thanks! I want to do camo in theme with all the orc clans. red, blue, yellow, and grey/black for Goffs, I guess?
>>
So I'd been wanting a second ministorum priest, and I had just read the new rules from Imperial Agents that allowed priests to take Eviscerators - massive, two-handed chainswords capable of cutting tanks in half.

And I'd always thought of priests as these sort of Imperial Rock Stars that would encourage the men and women of the Imperium to achieve the impossible with music.

And...uh...

Well, I kinda got carried away with the idea. This took me about two weeks to put together.

Tomorrow I start painting him.
>>
>>51314031

Cutting myself on all this edge.
Stay mad, champ :)
>>
That guy's photo was like 1 MB. Higher than it needed to be, but not that bad. What I hate more than abnormally large photos (which should get resized by your browser anyway) are low quality JPEGs that still take up 5-8 MB.
>>
Thin body
Thin paints
Sculpted abs
Sculpted greenstuff
>>
>>51314078
>the only thing you're accomplishing is adding one more shit fit on top of all the others in these threads, and we don't need it.

The irony.
>>
>>51314066
pretty baller
>>
>>51314066
That's really cool.
>>
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Plugging away at these.
>>
>>51314252
Very pretty
Enjoy brining death to the enemies of the emperor my compatriot
>>
What varnish do you guys use?I've been using vallejo matt varnish but it's a ballache since im brushing it on and it doesnt even seem to protect the paint that well - i ran my nail along a flat surface and the paint came away, even after two coats
>>
>>51312984

>engage jew
>contact forgeworld
>yo my knight didnt come with the shoulder

I got a replacement once when I explained that my rabbit had snaffled a small part (it was the window brace on a cockpit) and they had a good laugh and sent me the bit
>>
>>51314391
when i bought a krieg plattoon and got 2x command squads and 3x infantry instead of 1 and 4, they apologized and just sent me the infantry squad, and thats like 100 AUD
>>
>>51314405

Yeah forgeworld's real good like that. I bought a warhound, it was messed up so they sent me the whole order again (weapons and some techpriests as well) and when that was still messed up they sent me another warhound. So now I have three warhounds. two of which are a bit of a mess but still.
>>
>>51314433
Oh, you're crappy-warhound-anon?

I heard that someone on the moulding line was too liberal with the release agent. How'd Warhound No. 3 come out?
>>
>>51314252
Those look awesome.Can I ask where you got the long coat legs and those backpacks?
>>
>>51314446

It's much better, all the detail that should be there is present. There's still quite a few problems but I can actually fix them this time with sanding, filing and green stuff. It's most noticeable on the interior details such as the consoles, on the first two they were a messy blob but now they're nice and defined.
>>
>>51314451
looks like victoria lamb to me?
>>
>>51314279
>>51314486

Thank you. Legs are Victoria Lamb, Backpacks are home made.
>>
>>51314451
>>51314643

and quoted the wrong person, best of luck with those warhounds.
>>
I need suggestions for inexpensive paints that aren't bad. Bonus points for something I can buy at a storefront.
>>
>>51314701

All the good paints are expensive. The cheapest ones I can think of are Warcolour. They are about 66% of the price of the other paints like Vallejo, Reaper, GW, etc.
>>
>>51314433

The Warhound is extremely old. FW's very, very old models always have tons of problems, it's really annoying.
>>
Vallejo matte is fucking shit as a brush on, I know what you're talking about. It's only good for airbrushing. Use Army Painter anti-shine dropper bottle for brush on, and their rattle can for spraying. Vallejo takes 48 hours minimum to dry, and can take up to 2 weeks to cure because it's mixed with polyurethane resin. And even then I find you can scratch it quite easily if you're very forceful. It seems like it doesn't take that long to dry, but it really does take a while until it stops being tacky, and even after that it's kind of a damp smooth feeling. That, combined with Vallejo's FAQ/videos tells me it really does have a very long drying time.

I like Army Painter's matte because it actually FEELS matte instead of smooth. Gives a nice matte texture to rub your finger on. I'm sure you can scratch it off if you tried, but I only do one or two coats and haven't had problems with chipping and it will never flake like Vallejo's because it doesn't form a thick shell.
>>
>>51314876
They don't have to be good necessarily. Just not bad
>>
>>51314992

All the cheap ones are bad because they aren't meant for miniatures. They are cheap because their pigments aren't finely ground or found in high concentration, leading to shitty paintjobs on small objects.
>>
>>51314348
I use Testors Dullcote in the small rattle cans. They can be a little pricey, I usually get them with a coupon at whatever craftstore is in your area. Dullcote drys SUPER fast and doesn't have much of an offensive odor, I can usually spray something and immediately take it inside, whereas other clear coat products will stink up the whole house. I've had no issues with paint chipping or damage with Dullcote either. After it cures it feels really solid, I've used it on all of my vehicles with great results.
>>
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Picked up cork today at the departmebt store and made the base for my Greyfax. Turned out pretty well, though I think in hindsight that I should've used a bigger piece of cork.

Why do they only sell those cork sheets in like 1m x 0.5m as the smallest size, that shit is going to last me years.
>>
>>51315020

Testor's is lacquer, that's why it's so durable and expensive. No idea how they eliminated the smell though. Definitely the best rattle varnish out there, but I use something else because it's cheaper and just as nice looking (but is crappy acrylic and not lacquer).
>>
>>51315041
make some terrain, son. also, where do you buy sheets of cork? hardware stores?
>>
>>51314992
It's not really a sliding scale. Paints designed for miniatures, and some fine art acrylics (not student acrylics) are suitable for miniatures because their pigment is finer, high quality and they have lots of it. They cost more because of this.

There are then basically all cheaper acrylics, which will cause you problems due to their coarser-ground, cheaper pigments and low pigment content.

You spend a lot on these little toys to then ruin them by trying to save a few pennies on bad paint, I really can't recommend it.
>>
>>51315050

Hardware stores have it as cork paneling for the inside of shelves and stuff. Art stores also have it for bulletin boards, picture frames, etc.
>>
>>51315050
Yeah, they had them in giant sizes by the window stuff. No idea what cork is used for when sealing windows but whatever.
>>
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Anybody have any ideas for an alternate Thousand Sons (post heresy) color scheme? This is hard to explain, I'd still like to go with blue and gold, but maybe different shades than usual?

I mean, I still want them to be recognizable as Thousand Sons, but just something a little different. Perhaps more of an emphasis on yellow? Yellow is the primary color for my Daemons of Tzeentch so they'd at least match in that case, but I don't want too much yellow...

Can anyone make enough sense of my ramblings to help me out?
>>
>>51315085
Not sure how to change it but also keep it mostly the same. Considered that version of layering Guilliman Blue and that green glaze over Runefang Silver? Gives it a nice metallic look. I'm sure somebody can post the picture of it if you haven't seen it.
>>
>>51315125

I have not seen it, that would be awesome.
>>
>>51315085
Play with your colours.

This scheme has demonstrated that green is nice as an accent, so you can work that in in a few places. You can also play with gold/yellow to go for a warmer or colder tone, dependent on if you use say a flesh tone to shade gold vs. a purple, and you can use purple in the shades of yellow as well.

The new GW KSons paints are also further teal or turquoise than this sky / ultramarines blue, so there'sa variation to be had there as well. Blue can be made colder to contrast a warm gold by adding greys and whites for highlights, or again, purple in the shadows.

Highlights don't have to be pure value contrast, you can work with tone as well.
>>
>>51315085
the Wrath of Magnus has several alternate schemes
>>
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>>51315163
Turns out I actually have it saved myself.
>>
I'm just getting started and I wanted to pick up a brush set. Is there a recommended set with every brush I would need out there on amazon or something?

I was looking at a few but I didn't know if they were suitable
>>
>>51315635
something like this would probably be a good idea, you get a bit of everything
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/322334058096?lpid=107&chn=ps
>>
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Freehand ALL the things!
>>
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>>51315185
I really like the new 1k sons just started on mine

the dread is WIP
>>
>>51315765
That's really impressive. Honestly it is.

I don't like freehand, but that's damn nice.
>>
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So much infantry. Just finished some more Fire Warriors and a last Gue'vesa, bout to start up on this Shaper. Any suggestions for how to make his trophies not clash with his albino scheme?
>>
>>51315008 >>51315063
Alright, thanks for letting me know before I bought some shit stew at walmart or something. Guess being a jew doesn't work out all the time
>>
>>51315869
See if your local art store has Princeton Selects. I have both those as well as Kolinsky Sables....and honestly I like the synthetic Princetons better
>>
>>51315725
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NI39OSU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3S4K6706NXVS7
Would something like this get me by?
>>
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>>51313608
Wow man, that's a ton. This looks actually amazing, they look pretty terrifying right now.
Got a lot more work to do with em but them lenses bring em nicely together
Honestly feels like cheating
>>
>>51316098
Does anyone also have any basing suggestions?
>>
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should I do a meme pattern on the engine block trim or not?
>>
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>>51314066
Metal af, brother.
>>
>>51314252
I can't tell if I like the helmets or not, they seem slightly too big. But I also like the aesthetic of the carapace armour and flowing greatcoats. Send help.
>>
>>51316226
>I can't tell if I like the helmets or not, they seem slightly too big.
I think it's that the cadian models don't have a neck/balljoint like the skitarii or space marine models do. they are just flat in the back, like the scout kits.
So if you don't cut off the balljoint they're sitting a bit higher than a regular cadian head would.

In this case it's not as noticeable as in other conversions I've seen though.
These models look pretty good.
>>
>>51316383
The grinding tip on the dremel (the thinner one shaped like a pencil, not the fatter incense cone one) is perfect shape to grind out new slots for them. Thats what i used to get fire warrior heads on to monopose cadians.
>>
Is Rhinox Hide too dark to shade Steel Legion Drab with? I did a few tries and it looks alright.
>>
>>51316383
Ah, that's what it is. Thanks anon. They still look great though, paintjob included.
>>
>>51316176
...Now I want to do the Istvaan V bases.

Question though: When doing bases like this, can you superglue your models on just fine, or is there an extra step?
>>
>>51316907
>Superglue

Pleb detected
>>
>>51317004
Yes.

I make mistakes quite often so plastic glue/cement is not a good idea for me.
>>
>>51316197
Do some blocky numbers or squadron markings
>>
Jesus christ the servitor models suck. How hard would converting a box of Skitarii be?
>>
>>51316483
That's fine, but I use Agrax earthshade for my steel legion drab shading needs.
>>
>>51317004
>plastic glue

Ultrapleb, have fun never being able to make resin or metal.
>>
>>51317004
>>51317218
>not having both
Its fucking glue lads calm down
>>
>>51317218
>you can only own one type of glue

I don't understand the plastic vs superglue shitposting that's contaminated the last few threads. They're both useful for different things and everyone should own both.
>>
>>51317373
>>51317368
>>51317218
>>51317014
>>51317004
GLUE FIGHT BEGIN
>>
>>51317433
FUCK YOU SKUBSCUM!
DOWN WITH SKUB!
>>
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>>51317368
hey man, the glue eaters are the people that hold our thread together
>>
You fags really use plastic glue or superglue?

Elmer's White Glue master race here. All i use, unless im poorfagging that week and go for the still superior Quick-Crete binding method
>>
>>51317451
You shut the FUCK up talkin shit about skub

Death to the anti-skub
>>
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Does /wip/ like Rhinos..?
>>
>>51317465
>he doesn't weld his models together with a soldering iron
fucking plebeian step aside
>>
>>51317468
Fight me IRL faggot, you pro skub douchbags are all talk no walk.
>>
>>51317480
>firaga
I thought it was autistic, then I lol'd. I like it.
>>
>>51317368
Nice shitpost
>>
Why the fuck does my superglue never want to set?
I'm stuck trying to hold two parts together for ten minutes and the instant I let go it all falls apart or droops.
Am I just buying shit glue or what?
>>
>>51314348
You don't use matte varnish for protection. You use gloss varnish for protection and matte varnish to kill the shine from the gloss.

>>51315020
Testors is a fine product but I'm personally not a fan because it's not matte enough for me. It's more like a very slight satin.
>>
>>51317603
Meant >>51317218
>>
>>51317482
Dont even bother posting if you dont melt your models in heavy acid, then squish them together.

Next you'll tell me you dont assemble models by wrapping thin strands of chewing gum around the joins, pff
>>
>>51317605
Get some accelerator if it's that bad.
>>
>>51317603
Nice 'nice shitpost' shitpost
>>
>>51317627
>using chewing gum
back in my day we used chewing tabacco salvaged from granpaws spittin' bucket.
>>
>>51317640
>granpaws
>>
>>51317640
>Not using superior Gaul sinew like your grandpappy's pappy used to

Now i just tie the pieces together very carefully with fishing wire, since they dont sell sinew at Michael's anymore
>>
>>51314433
>Order mastodon
>Sides were uncured and sticky
>wait a week
>They send me the wrong part as a replacement
>wait another week
>finally get the right part

I didnt get any free mastodon

and then I sold the mastodon because the rules are beyond garbage tier
>>
>>51317605
Your glue might be bad. If you've had it for awhile grab a new tube. I find that I cant use a tube fast enough, it usually starts to go shit around half way through. Not to start any shit, different glue has different applications, but that is one thing plastic cement has over super glue in my opinion. I have a tube of plastic cement that I bought over 5 years ago and it still works perfectly.
>>
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Does anyone have a clearer picture of this?
Also, I'm going to be painting 8th cadians in winter fatigues. Any advice? What colors should I use? Old ones arn't in print anymore.
>>
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>>51317433
>>
I want to prime and base coat my models but it is raining hard and will be raining all weekend
>>
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>>51317667
The fuck happened to your image
>>
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>>51317884
>>
>>51317927
You're the best, anon.

Anyone know of any good H1 hummers that'd mesh well with imperial guard, being either the size of a chimera or taurox?
I plan on painting some catachans up in orange. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDeThz30JtQ
>>
>>51317752
>Plastic cement
But anon, my models are pewter.
>>
>>51317949
Lick both of the areas.
Accelerant is a fucking scam.
>>
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>>51317884
>>51317947
Oh and for the colours not being in print anymore

Skull White = White scar
Shadow Grey = The Fang
>>
>>51317968
Thanks, anon.
Any recommendations for doing the camo itself? I've got an airbush I was planing to base coat them with.
>>
>>51317963
>something that can cause chemical burns is a scam

You probably thin with tap water.
>>
>>51318077
How the fuck is licking pewter going to give me chemical burns?
>>
>>51317993
Maybe something like this
Base The Fang
White parts Ulthuan Grey to White Scar
Blue parts Russ Grey/Fenrisian Grey
Grey parts Dawnstone/Administratum Grey
>>
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>>51315085 here

>>51315125
>>51315185
>>51315223

Didn't think about the Wrath of Magnus book, which I actually have (the collector's edition, no less) and I'm really liking these schemes in the back. Most of them are the same boring blue/gold/yellow with different shades on the cloth, but pic related is really doin it for me.
>>
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>>51317947
Just convert a Taurox.
>>
>>51318081

Your reading comprehension is so toxically low, I'm surprised you're not dead.
>>
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Still working on Metallic Purple Celestine and Friends. I'm hoping to get some feedback on the cloaks there. The base coat isn't quite done because I didn't want to put the effort into it if the color was off.

I was trying out using Thousand Sons Blue base and was planning on highlighting with Ahriman Blue. For washing, I'm not sure if I want to go with blue or green because I am leaning towards a blue-green look.
>>
Anyone got any guides or personal experiances with painting 40k Orks the skin and the overall appearance of them, just painting them in doesn't seem to be enough and they look way better with the checker board patterns etc.
>>
>>51318429
Fuck I really want Celestine just to paint her.
>>
>>51318594
>I really want to fuck Ceslestine just paint her
>>
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First time using Vallejo Industrial Thick and Splash Mud, I'm finding it very straightforward and effective so far - what do you think? There's going to be quite a bit more splash mud on the leg, but that's going onto the three armour panels (per side) which aren't attached in the picture, but they cover most of the shin and some of the lower pistons.
>>
>>51318662
Anon Damn 8888)))), I no nothing about what you said but that looks sexy, mate.
>>
>>51318594
I mean that is why I got her.
>>
Anyone here build a Conversion Beamer?

What parts?
>>
Hey guys what do you think so far
>>
>>51318921

Joke all you want I've seen recastfags post photos of fucking mail packages and sprue still in fucking bubblewrap.
>>
>>51318921
should have blown the image up to 5555x4848
>>
>>51315041

very nice greyfax, I'm gonna save it and compare when I'm done with mine.
>>
>>51318937
dont forget the guy working on some kind of roman army and for eighteen months he's posted the same image and told us he plans on buying some kind of winged angel for them
>>
>>51318921

thin your cutters
>>
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r8 my boi
>>
>>51319452
WISHMINELOOKEDTHATGOOD/10
>>
>>51319452
E's a good un.
>>
>>51319452
Dat ass spread.
>>
>>51319452
jobs a gud'un boss
>>
>>51319452

Dat gitz flash!
>>
>>51319452
Job's a gud un boss.
>>
reminder to always consider rules before building your models- i built this squad of custodes, and the standard bearer cannot actually attack
>>
>>51319701
>reminder to always consider rules
GW doesn't so why should anyone else.
>>
>>51319701
another thing i've notice in my BoP test game is the d10's dont have a 10 facing, they have a 0. I mean i'm sure theyre 10 but damn thats confusing,and annoying.
>>
>>51319701
You don't need a weapon to get a melee attack.
He will still get his base attacks at natural str stat in combat.
>>
>>51319701
They look pretty fucking good tho, family
>>
>>51319783
in 40/30k, yeah, I meant for the actual BoP rules. I cant wait to use them in 40k. i guess for the board game no ones gonna care. if i say he's just got the knife on his belt as well.
>>51319805
thanks, i spent a lot of time on them :)
>>
>>51318429
I accidentally got plastic glue on her face while putting her head in. WTF was with that. Having the hair attached to the armour instead of her head. Very upset inside.
>>
>>51319903
let it dry and paint it milky white.
>>
Priming tanks by hand sucks ass. I almost regret my decision of choosing white primer for it, as well.
>>
Is there a secret to thinning paint?
I realise this question may sound ridiculous but I feel like im spending more time putting paint on my tile than on my model where it dries up so fast. Especially when I'm using my detail brushes. Is this normal?
>>
Starting to paint again after many years and want to use Vallejo paints this time (for the most part). Converted a lot of paints from GW to Vallejo but missing a few on the list so maybe someone might know:

Ulthuan Grey
Skavenblight Dinge

I would share pics but really all I've done at this point is hot glue washers to the bases to add weight and build a stand to put shoulder pads and bolters on to prime.
>>
>>51320176

Got a fairkly awful photo of the stand so I guess I can share that. The base was a dollar and the rods were about $2. Drilled holes in the base and put the rods in. Can put shoulder pads on the end with sticky tack alternating rods so they don't overlap.
>>
>>51318962
Thank you, anon. Personally, I find the gold to be too shiny and full but that's just me criticizing my own stuff I guess.
>>
>>51320176
You can't have been out of it for very long because I have no idea what those colours are.
>>
>>51320176
I've found the metal leadbelcher color to be too dark from vallejo
>>
I really hope that Sister Fister anon from the 40k general a while back starts work on his Baneblade soon and posts progress.
>>
>>51319701
Don't they all have Power Daggers that have the same stats as the sword?
>>
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Two Chaos Trolls of mine. Was first thinking about mixing a unit of differently converted trolls to represent trolls from all over but I really like how these two came out so I'm reconsidering just making the full unit out of trolls of this type. What do you guys think?
>>
>>51320314
They look pretty cool from what I can see, do you think you could take a better picture?
>>
>>51320314

I opened the picture but it seems to be a grey smudge approximately the size of Texas.

Maybe attach a picture of the models you are talking about next time.
>>
>>51320331
I will try but all I have is my crappy phone camera unfortunately.
>>
>>51320347
Never heard of Texas Smudge Trolls?
>>
So, I've had 3 ideas about fortifying my Celestine's seals.

Either I glue some wire between the two when gluing them together and just attach that to her
OR
I find some old wall piece I can use as a ruin to glue her foot onto to serve as an extra pole to keep her standing
OR
My favourite way to do it, but also the one I have no idea how to do properly without destroying the model: magnetize the connection between her and her ribbons to be able to take her off her base and make it easier to transport without the wings breaking

Ease of transport is my primary concern, since I really want to use her eventually but don't trust her ribbons and/or wings to survive any transportation when fully assembled.
>>
>>51320363
Magnetize the backpack, for starters.

Honestly speaking I'd probably ditch the ribbons entirely and pin the feet of the flying sisters on their bases directly. Might get called out as modelling for advantage thanks to the huge height difference, but fuck trusting those spindly pieces of plastic for anything.
>>
>>51320387
I tried magnetizing the backpack but couldn't get a good drilling point to get the magnets in so I abondened that effort. Figured that I might as well just detach her from the base for transport since the doves and sword arm are going to break almost as easily as the wings and can't be detached.
>>
>>51320125
Sort of. Google 'wet palette tutorial' and try it out.
>>
>>51320305
WAT
>>
>>51320281

I got a color chart from an older WIP thread and it had showed colors used to get an effect and that is where I got the names from. I think it was four part color for each to get a d3esired end color. For example to get white it was grey > Nuln Oil > light grey > white. That is where I got the names from.
>>
Just finished this bad boy, he's such a cool model.
>>
>>51320440
>anon got a Baneblade for his tournament winnings
>decided to let /40kg/ roll for color scheme and name of the tank
>Sister Fister won the name roll
>everyone kept rolling for Sisters black/gold colors until the won the paint roll
>different anon made a "SISTER [Imperial Fist insignia] 99" decal to put on its side because 99 was the winning roll
>anon said hed deliever
>>
>>51320456
Best Primarch after Papa Dorn.

I like the rough way the paint looks. Gives the armor a realistic tough. Good job, anon.
>>
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>>51320314

Hopefully a more acceptable picture of them.
>>51320331
>>51320347
>>
>>51320416
Yeah, the fact that they seemed like such a pain in the ass to transport was the primary reason I didn't keep her or cawl.

>the box/greyfax isn't arriving for a few more days
>seeing all these people assembling/painting them already
aaaaaaaaaaaa curse my GW/FLGS selling out and having to order more
>>
>>51320477
thanks bro, Vulkan is my fave, nicest guy in the imperium.
>>
>>51320488
Yeah, the hardest part of magnetizing either of them is that they are at their most fiddly and thinnest in the spots you'd want to magnetize (like her backpack or Cawl's axe arm and waist).

Just figured that I might actually be able to do a decent base by building a stone spire out of cork, put a magnet in and put some greenstuff with a magnet on the back of her foot, then add the ribbons to the base without gluing to her. Should cover things up nicely and still keep things mostly stable.
>>
>>51320480
They look really ugly, but like good ugly, the Ogre heads give them a weird vibe, like a fucked up weird sphinx
>>
>>51320420

Thanks, will give making one of these a go. Looks especially useful if I mess up a highlight and have to switch back to neaten up.
>>
>>51320125
Your small brushes have a smaller reservoir of paint, which dries out quickly. If you can, use a larger brush with a quality point.
>>
>>51320572
Thanks.
The heads are from GW's Giant. I tried with ogre heads aswell but they were too small.
>>
Asking again but any suggestion for little pieces I can add to round out my mordheim terrain? I have things like wells, overturned cart, gallows, but anything else to help make the streets more cluttered would be super helpful.
>>
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>>51320652
>>51320480

Forgot to add that I was trying to go for a Chaotified John Bauer Troll.
>>
>>51315765
What's the gun made from?
>>
>>51320656

How about pop up market stalls or guard posts?
>>
>>51320656
crates, bags of grain
>>
>>51319452
10/10 Would shoot again!
>>
>>51319452
9/10 on the Tabletop scale, he gets 10 when you pick out those stitches on his pants in the same colour as his leg wraps.
>>
>>51320125
Wet palette.
>>
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Twins, they were! Been very sick the past two weeks, and in a fit of madness last night I decided to give an old dreadnought a face lift and new base for a tournament today, to replace the ever-underperforming Eversor.

Not my best, but for a couple hours work it'll do. If anyone in the GTA is heading to black knight, you'll get to see me embarrass myself while running on fumes.
>>
>>51320994
>old school Ultramarine player is not just a rad 40k player
>he's a rad tournament player

Mad respect. Models look sweet as always.
>>
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>miniature looks pretty good (or at least I think so) irl
>looks like shit on my phone
So this is the power of lightboxes, huh ? Or does the photo actually reflects reality in a more accurate way than my deluded, self loving eyes ?
>>
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>>51321056
Nah, it's the first tournament I'll be going to in.. about a decade. Last time I did any organized play was during 4th edition, to put things into perspective.

But I made a resolution to actually play some games this year rather than paint things and do literally nothing with them afterwards. Already got tabled a few times on camera this month when I met up with one of my bosses from GW, so it can only get better, right?

Glad you like the smurfs. They're fun to paint.
>>
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>>51321085
Bit of both.

A photo, especially a decent macro photo that's like 4x the size of the mini, will let you see your miniature in greater detail, and can also be useful for spotting a lack of contrast.

People post about their phones robbing highlights, but this probably means that the contrast is OK for someone 2 inches away from the model painting it, but not good enough for on the tabletop or in a display cabinet.

On the other hand, if your photography is bad, the model will look bad. You don't need a full lightbox (although they are pretty cheap on Amazon for a 1 foot by 1 foot one), but lighting and a backdrop will help you a lot.
>>
>>51320702
I have no idea. I found the coil part at the big bits dealer booth at GenCon last year. The front section is a gun from a Mechwarrior Dark Age Centurion, and the weapon housing is a Baal Predator
>>
>>51321115
I hope I do you proud when I get back to doing my smurf assault squad (your dudes inspired me to go with hazard striped chainswords), but today I'm painting some AoS to stop myself burning out on power armour.
>>
>>51321159
Better watch out, or you'll catch the bug and get addicted to painting bright colours.
>>
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Realized I didn't really have anything that screamed Thousand Sons on the Predator yet, so I painted some stripes.
>>
>>51321232
>those sponson magnets
I can't think of the last time I saw someone with the standard plastic spokes intact.

Still looking good. There's also the segmented door, if you're looking for more spots to put yellow stripes, though that might be overkill.
>>
>>51320461
WHO THE FUCK IS SISTER FISTER
>>
>>51321308
>I can't think of the last time I saw someone with the standard plastic spokes intact.

They actually were until a few night ago when I somehow broke one and decided to just remove the whole thing on both sides.
>>
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>>51321142
Thanks for the tips, anon. Pic related is the best I can do, it's still darker than what it looks irl, but my phone is quite old at this point.
Hope you guys can see some shit and give some feedback
>>
>>51321322
"Sister Fister" was what an anon rolled to be the name and it won the roll.

The Baneblade will be called Sister Fister.
>>
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>>51321115
>that pic
Every night before I go to bed after I pray I do this to roll for how good a day I'll have tomorrow
>>
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First proper greenstuff project and I'm in too deeeeep!
>>
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Slowly getting there with my HH legions.
>>
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>>51313743
>tfw Wyrd told me that they offer Mother in transparent plastic but not the Gups

I seriously had my heart broken by this revelation. What's the point of painting up a transparent mini only have no other mini share in the same effects? It would have literally been perfect for their eyes and the fish fins.

You paint job looks great btw, but I think a final hightlight and maybe even a super gloss finish would make it 8/10
>>
>>51321386
If you have another lamp you can shine on this setup it would help, the picture is very dark.

This guy looks pretty good for tabletop though.
>>
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>>51314252
It's a simple but lovely conversion anon, excellent job.
>>
>>51321459
well it looks like shit, which for your faction is par for the course.

good job

what kinda paint scheme can we expect for that guy?
>>
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First acolyte also first time using grey primer. Went ok but the pruple carapace doesn't look right. Might have to go for the full GW theme or possibly green.
>>
>>51321721
you might want to reshoot that picture with a blank background. The camera focused on the words on the page, rather than the miniature. It is quite blurry.
>>
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Think I got a decent picture,
Work in progress kabalite warriors
>>
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>>51321594
Lol thanks I guess? I've got a way to go with the rest of the mini and I don't have a nurgle army so I don't have a definite plan for paint yet. I'm erring more towards a blue/purple finish than the standard green though.
>>
>>51321902
thanks asshole, I gotta start up a Kabal of my own now, those look badass.
>>
>>51321587
>If you have another lamp you can shine on this setup it would help, the picture is very dark.
Unfortunately, I don't. Well at least, thanks to this experiment, I will hopefully improve on this next time. Never was a good photographer, kek

Thanks for the feedback
>>
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Started adding more 40k pieces (beyond grenades and ammo pouches) to my squads of Warzone Imperial Regulars.

I repositioned the fist that's holding the chainsword, and filling in the gaps was my first time working with green stuff.
>>
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Alright, put together the base for my Celestine. Squeezed some wire between the two ribbons to make them more durable, stacked that cork up to a goof height, added a magnet on top and stuck a sloped piece of greenstuff to Celestine's foot with the second magnet in it. Gonna wait for that to dry until tomorrow and hopefully hold the magnet in place good enough to snap on and off the base without issue.

Gotta get some of that decorative grass or sonething for the rock to put on, since a giant grey/black pillar without anything on it would look pretty boring. Just not sure if I should paint the greenstuff on Celestine just solid black, like the rock, white or whatever color to not distract from the model itself.
>>
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>>51321115
>Nah, it's the first tournament I'll be going to in.. about a decade. Last time I did any organized play was during 4th edition, to put things into perspective.

You sound like me. Did a lot in First, Second, and Third Edition, played maybe two or three games in Fourth and Sixth, and then played more in Seventh Edition than I had the previous ten years.

>Already got tabled a few times

Happens to me almost every time, but then again, I build reasonably-balanced armies that aren't full of whatever giant resin monstrosity FW has been churning out (pic related).
>>
>>51321962
I thought that was going to be a huge wave of skulls from the thumbnail.
>>
>>51321989
As much as I'd love to have that myself, I think that's beyond my skill level and bit-budget right now.
>>
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>>51321976
Could it be? A gaming table with no unpainted models?
>>
>>51321902
Is the bare headed one wearing Furiosa style war paint?
>>
For an Inquisitorial warband I want to model my own Inquisitor and Acolytes. I'm going to have a female Ordo Xenos inquisitor, two regular scions, a planetary defense force captain, and a mystic.
What kits do you think I should look at for them? I was thinking about doing the Inquisitor from a Sister of Silence with some different arms but would that model bee too small?
>>
>>51322000
Without having actually done it, I don't think it would be that hard. If I was going to do it I'd start with a structure a bit like you've got already to form the basic shape, buy a bag of skulls and then build the skulls up around the structure.
>>
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>>51322055

Depending on how much you're willing to invest in this and what kind of look you're shooting for?

Either of the Guard command squad kits or a Fantasy Empire General come with a plethora of doodads for making fancy tactical/gothic dudes. Alternatively a head and or weapon swap on some guard character models can be a pretty good approach too.
>>
>>51320456
no matter what, jet black salamanders always look unfinished
>>
First base made with my homemade stamp, I'm intending to add snow effects to these to cover stamping defects add some variety.
>>
>>51322147
No idea where I'd buy a full bag of skulls, is my main issue. Only found some third party pile of skulls from quick googling and those cost a whooping 15$ for like 20 skulls and even more on top for shipping. I'd probably need 2 or 3 bags for that pile and I sure as hell won't pay upwards of 50$ for just those skulls.
>>
>>51322055
Take a look through some of the Raging Heroes TGG stuff. There's a couple of characters in there that I think would be cool female Inquisitors.
>>
>>51322184
>No idea where I'd buy a full bag of skulls, is my main issue.
There was a chinese seller on ebay that sold them cheaply.
Secret Weapon miniatures also sells a product that is literally called 'sack o' skulls'.
It a bag filled with skulls by weight.
>>
>>51321721
do people not look at their photos before posting? Use the camera's focus m8!
>>
>>51322223
they might, but through some shit phone screen so they can't really tell otherwise
>>
>>51322221
Yeah, just found this "Green Stuff World" shop online that also sell skulls in packs of 50 or 100 for 10€. Would also sell 50 Ork skulls, which I'm not sure are enough to work as well, though I'd need one of those for another mini I'm planning on doing.

http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/scenery-accessories/391-50x-resin-ork-skulls.html

Doubtful if only 50 will be enough to cover the base good enough,
>>
>>51321905
not that anon, but what are you building? a Great unclean one?
>>
Getting motivated to assemble is so hard lads
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8uiSFCBAfs

Something like this would be pretty dope to have in a Warhammer game. Would have been THE thing they could've done for Dawn of War 3.
>>
>>51322352
Getting motivated to even paint is hard.

>tfw all these models that i assembled and will never paint sit in my closet staring at me
>>
>>51322358
>Something like this would be pretty dope to have in a Warhammer game.
just about any 40k or WHFB game i can think of except for dark omen and vermintide had that.
Don't know if total war warhammer has it though.
The other DoW games had this for multiplayer.
>>
>>51322395
I know that most of them had some kind of "paint your army" mechanic, but none of them as in-depth as the system in that game.
>>
finally got my first army(Comorrite Eldar) all painted.

So far, it's ~1000 points(I don't normally field the hellions)

random question: While painting my kabalites, in order to paint into the crevices on the mask using the yellow, I covered the entire mask area, then, using my finger, I wiped all the excess off the mask, leaving only the filled crevices. Is this a habit I should endeavor to break, or is it more of a 'do it if it works' situation?

I know the pic is too far away, I couldn't realistically fit the whole army into my limited lightbox area
>>
>>51322413
From this distance everything looks decent, but whats up with those just straight up yellow guys?
>>
>>51322401
hardly surprising since you do not want a model like in the video with the polycount in a RTS or mass battle game.
Most of the games are older too.

That aside managing each part of a model a separate entity means a separate draw call. If each model has 20 drawcalls and you have to store all the color vectors from the army painter somewhere and it's gonna be a applied during runtime via a shader... the game is gonna be a lot slower.
Works fine if you only have 10 units or so on the screen at any given time. For a game with the scope most warhammer titles had that would be total overkill though.
>>
>>51322434
Yeah, from a technical standpoint it's probably going to be a punch to the balls for the frame rate.

It could however work for a turn-based Warhammer game, though they'd never ever do one close to the tabletop with that kind of army painter, since that'd most likely cut into model sales pretty significantly.
>>
>>51322429
they were the first guys I painted a few months ago, before learning about the importance of thinning your paints and using actual model paints.
>>
>>51322413
>Finished
>at least three models are only basecoated
>doesn't seem like models are highlited in any way
>plain black bases
>finished

Nah m8, you still have a long way to go until you can call them finished.
>>
File: IMG_20170121_164753.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]
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>>51322327
Yes. Making pretty quick progress. Ignore the fingerprints, most of the greenstuff is structural so far. The plastic is mostly from the maggoth lord kit, a horrible model but great kit for this.
>>
>>51322514
the bright yellow ones I'm not going to finish, as a reminder of where I started

as for the bases, I figure fluff-wise them being on black bases makes sense, since they're standing on raiders which is an excuse, yes.

The highlighting is a pure lack of skill on my part, though I did try and blend some colours for the weapons, and I gave each of my vehicles an 'ardcoat.
>>
File: IMG_20170121_165005.jpg (2MB, 2448x3264px) Image search: [Google]
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>>51322577
Another angle. Really enjoying the process too. Just got to be patient with the green stuff.
>>
>>51322608
congrats on painting up a complete force, but these are pretty hideous
>>
File: hello citizen by the emperor.jpg (299KB, 700x1690px) Image search: [Google]
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>>51322479
>>
>Use vallejo black primer with airbrush
>Thin with their thinner, clean brush with their cleaner
>For some reason models smell what I can only describe as "burnt"

Anyone else experience this?
>>
>>51322608
I like the color scheme
>>
>>51314066
I'm stealing so many ideas, its unbelievable, super damm cool anon
>>
>>51313745

I'm really liking the quantity and boldness of the highlighting for this. It isn't a style you typically see outside of some of the historical painters on Lead Adventure.
>>
>>51322640

That looks really fucking good fampai, keep it up.

It reminds me how much I need to continue gitting gud at GS when it takes me 2 hours to get a sculpt right for a helmet mouthpiece.
>>
>>51322640

Looks quite good, especially if you don't have much experience. Some criticism though, you have lots of fingerprints on the green stuff. You probably use some sort of lubricant, water or oil or something when working with the green stuff, which is good. But I'd also recommend that you wear thin plastic gloves as well. That eliminates the risk of getting finger prints on the green stuff. Also if you are planning to do more sculpting in the future, consider investing money into milliput or some other coarser putty that you can use for bigger parts and then use green stuff for the small, finesse detail work.
>>
>>51322967
Fuck man it takes me 2 hours to fill gaps.

I legitimately don't understand how this material is even usable. It's so fucking worthless I swear to god. It sticks to the tool more than the miniature unless I constantly dip the tool in water every 10 seconds at which point the material gets soggy and stops acting like a solid and goes to shit even worse.
>>
>>51322967
Thanks!

>>51323018
Yeah like I said though, the bits with big fingerprints are just for the structure and filling the gaps so that when im doing the actual skin I'm not building on thin air. I've been careful not to get fingerprints on the finished parts and I don't think there are any. I have thought about getting some other kind of milliput for that purpose, I may do in future.
>>
>>51319701

More like a reminder to always magnetize the arms, and don't play with wysiwyg shit heads.
>>
>>51322681
yeah, I know. This is basically the first time I've ever painted...pretty much anything, ever.
>>
>>51314031
>all this autistic rage

Neck yourself, cunt
>>
>>51322751
Yeah i noticed that weird smell from the black primer too. The spray can one is worse.
>>
>>51322479
>before learning about the importance of thinning your paints and using actual model paints.
What did you use? Those acrylics from craft stores or something more interesting?
>>
>>51323217
yeah

and when my buddy told me to thin my paints and get a thinner over water, I thought he meant actual paint thinner so I was trying to paint with THAT for a while.


...and then I discovered duncan's videos.
>>
>>51323130

That was almost a full day ago, anon. Let it go.
>>
>>51323239
Kys
>>
File: IMG_3679.jpg (670KB, 1625x2721px) Image search: [Google]
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Not used to freehand work.
Thoughts?
Any ways to improve?
>>
>>51323478

Very nice.
>>
>>51323478
Nice, just too bad that the last line is not completely horizontal, but oh well
>>
>>51323478

Looks good. Sometimes a couple of practice runs on paper first can help hone a particular curve or swish or let you know that what you're trying to do isn't going to work. Looks like you've got it down though.
>>
>>51323478

Have everything drawn out before you actually put paint to it, especially with writing. It kinda looks like you realized halfway through the word "righteous" that you weren't gonna have enough room and so crammed the rest in.

Looks good though.
>>
>>51323478
maybe you could redo the text in 3 lines
Lift up the hearts
of
The Righteous
>>
I don't feel like spending $17 on a can of Citadel primer. What do you guys use? Hobby Lobby has Krylon primer for $5/can.
Soon as I get some primer I'll be able to get to painting and show everyone my very first attempt at painting. I am excite, and I look forward to being mercilessly mocked.
>>
File: gehehe.jpg (175KB, 960x831px) Image search: [Google]
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I picked up some cultists today and some Crypt horros to turn into some Tzeentch chaos spawn, just about to raid my bits box for all sorts of gubbins.

Do these tiny arms look alright? They're almost as long as the arms you get in the set but are alot thinner.
>>
>>51324203
I think it works, what he lacks in muscle he makes up for in quantity
>>
File: orkz.png (4MB, 2560x1440px) Image search: [Google]
orkz.png
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GW specialized paints is pretty good
>>
File: 1456874085872.jpg (73KB, 604x453px) Image search: [Google]
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HEAVEN OR HELL /wip/
DRY OR LAYERS

WHICH IS SUPERIOR?!

Implying it's not a good mixture of both
>>
>>51324203
where's the body and arms from ? might do something similar for a slaanesh daemon prince or keeper of secrets, with a headswap and some greenstuff to make some body horror
>>
>>51324313
I cannot into layers, and thus have come to rely on dry brushing.
>>
>>51324275
Glad to see there are still LotR fags alive
>>
>>51324324
Crypt horror bodies, Pink horror arms.
>>
>>51324313
DRYBRUSH WHEN YOU NEED GET YOUR SHIT DIRTY AND DUSTY
LAYER WHEN SHIT MUST BE NICE AND NEAT
>>
>>51324350
damn, then it might be a tad too small for a dp or kos. thanks anyway
>>
>>51322577
>>51322640
keep it up, and keep us posted. As a fellow Nurgle player/converter, I am liking what I am seeing.
>>
Anyone got some tips on making steel beams for rubble? Can I use the sprue frames for it easily?
>>
>>51324313
If only one, layers.
>>
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>>51324313
Both

hair, wings and skin are drybrushed and finished with layers.
>>
File: Kabal Scheme.png (149KB, 303x627px) Image search: [Google]
Kabal Scheme.png
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I know it's a terrible edit, cuz I couldn't find the template, but how does this look for a Kabal scheme?

I'm not a particularly good painter so I was thinking I could just basecoat purple, wash, then drybrush for highlights. Thought it'd work well with all those raised armour edges.
>>
>>51324703
whysoserious/10
>>
>>51324703

Haaaahahahaha
>>
>>51324703
>drybrush
no
normal highlights will be better
>>
File: Kabal Scheme.png (149KB, 303x627px) Image search: [Google]
Kabal Scheme.png
149KB, 303x627px
>>51324726
>>51324732

...fuck. How about this instead?

>>51324733

Trust me, my normal highlights look like absolute garbage. My drybrushing will look so much better.
>>
File: 005.jpg (2MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]
005.jpg
2MB, 4032x3024px
>>51324313
These are my first models and I used Drybrush, I think Drybrush is pretty damn good for beginners to have good looking models
>>
>>51324751

Still too close to not avoid comparisons I'm afraid
>>
>>51323121
well in that case, double congratulations! you've tackled not only a whole force, but a very fiddly and detail-heavy range of models. keep painting!
>>
File: FTFY.jpg (193KB, 893x738px) Image search: [Google]
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>>51324778

For future reference...

1. Open mspaint
2. Crop out every inch of non model related piece of background
3. Adjust the size so that it's a reasonable size
4. save.
>>
>>51324821
Thanks anon, saved your cropped version and I'll do so for future posts
>>
Any ideas on a cheaper alternative to buying a soul grinder from gw aside from ebay?

Not partial to the model anyway.
>>
>>51324778
Whilst your statement is certainly not wrong, I'm on a whole different camp.

Drybrushing can be quite an useful tool, bt not something I'd reccomend to a newbie. It can look good, and doing it well is relatively simple, but I find that in many cases, it also serves as a comfort zone for inexperienced painters. I've known far too many people that stick to drybrushing due to it providing "better" results than more advanced techniques, which means that over time, those painters will shy away from acually improving their painting skills and staying with less effective methods by fear of fucking stuff up.

This hobby is based on doing, on trying and (at the begginging) more often than not failing at what one is trying to do. I feel there's too much fear of failure and too little will of actually going out of the painter's comfort zone.

I'd rather have somebody paint their army in a way where it goes from very bad, to mediocre to actually good, than somebody that just sticks to drybrushing and washes because it "looks ok".

The only way to become good is by actually trying to be good, as opposed to hiding how bad you are.
>>
File: ranger[1].jpg (4MB, 5312x2988px) Image search: [Google]
ranger[1].jpg
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Trying to replace a skitarii ranger's backpack with a praetorian's back. I shaved it a little to fit closer to the ranger's back. Does it look too clunky?
>>
>>51325101
Yeah it looks huge, needs to be closer to his body I think but to be honest not sure what your going for here.
>>
>>51325173
I'm trying to trick him out with necron tech to make him look like he was augmented by them. I want to give him a necron gun and a head as a makeshift servo skull, but other than that, I don't know what else I can do to get that kind of look.
>>
File: bartertown.jpg (104KB, 875x508px) Image search: [Google]
bartertown.jpg
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>>51324973
>Any ideas on a cheaper alternative to buying a soul grinder from gw aside from ebay?

Join Bartertown, DakkaDakka, or one of the numerous Facebook groups for buying, trading, or selling miniatures.
>>
>>51324275
looks good, time for MANFLESH
>>
Isopropyl alcohol will remove primer, right? I got a little too excited priming my Scions
>>
>>51325472
>Isopropyl alcohol will remove primer, right?
It will remove primer, yes. It will also remove plastic, too.
>>
File: Screenshot_3.png (507KB, 470x545px) Image search: [Google]
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>>51325487
r8 my dorf
>>
>>51325513
It's a dorf alright yes.
>>
>>51325487
>>51325513
shit, I didn't mean to reply
>>
>>51325472
yes
>>51325487
no
>>
>>51325513
can't find a fault. 10/10
>>
>>51325513

Really like it.

Great skins, gems, beards, base, metal, whites.

pretty perfect m8, gj
>>
>>51325513
that's one angry motherfucker
>>
>>51325513
Proppa dorfy.

Urist/10, me rikey.
>>
>>51325487
>>51325540
Thanks guys
>>
>>51325604
Any time.
>>
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>>51325513
>>51321494
>>51314066
>>
Can I use a hairdryer on the texture base paints to speed up the drying?

While this may sound obvious (I use a hairdryer to dry washes and other paint all the time) I didn't know if it would damage or spoil the cracking process
>>
>>51325738
U wot mate?

Acrylics usually only take a few mins to dry. Enough time to get your next layer, shake it, put it on a palette, get your brush, etc.

Why would you want to dry it???
>>
>>51322640
You have gotta get your hands on some miliput, hobby lobby should have some. It's cheaper than greenstuff for filling gaps (preferably unseen ones) but holds less detail. It would be perfect for giving you a solid foundation internally and you could mix it with anything solid to better fill the chasm in bigger spaces where you could simply greenstuff over the top.
>>
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dopey shroom
>>
>>51325812

I don't need that much time to prep.

99.6% of the time I don't need to use a hair dryer in the painting process. In the other 0.04% of the time my £5 hairdryer is handy.
>>
>>51325819
>but holds less detail
that's not true.

You have to work differently with it. GS settles a bit when it dries, softening the edges of what you are working on.
Milliput does not shrink or move at all unless you mixed a shitton of water into it. In fact it holds a straight edge way better than GS.

Depends entirely on personal preference what kind of putty to use for what though.

Except Magic Sculpt. Fuck that stuff.
>>
>>51325487
IPA is harmless to plastic, unless you light the shit on fire.
>>
>>51325869

0.4... fuck.
>>
>>51325812
>U wot mate?

I invite you to read >>51325738
>texture base paints

Those things take forever to dry.

People in my shop often hold them under the hot air heater when e.g. the one-day painting competition's deadline is close. I suspect that the rate of drying could cause a difference in the crack sizes, but it should still crack. Try it out and let us know.
>>
>>51325881

https://youtu.be/uH5C6_TxPr8?t=255
>>
>>51325738
I use an AGA. it gives it a paintable skin. after that, the base starts melting, so i must be quick.
>>
>>51325853
for some reason it reminds me of oogey boogey, but with a sunhat.
>>
>>51324751
Dull down the purple bro
>>
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>>51315765
god damn thats glorious
>>
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Trying out NMM for the first time, any tutorials that people really recommend?
>>
>>51325077
Oh I understand what you mean entirely, and I agree. I just hate the thought of accidentally fucking up a model given how expensive they are. But I do intend on gittin gud with layering.
>>
New thread is up apparently...
>>51325934
Thread posts: 359
Thread images: 93


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