WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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reposting from last thread as timing was kill.

>>51235079
Jesus Christ.

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Just got some Blood technical paint and put it on my NL instead of the red paint.

>>51235173

Just don't forget less is more with that shit.

>>51235315

Did I put too much down? Wanted there to be a bit because it's you know, NL.

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This is my updated model from a few days ago - i think i fixed up the base, i removed the grit from the sides too.

I painted the paints and the inside of the robe grey, but now im not sure that will look good? Anyone have any ideas for a good fabric color to go with the orange?

>>51235145
Nah, just an adult Sunstalker.

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>>51235332

No that's fine, but don't make it the endless recurring theme of having nicely painted models drenched in blood it detracts from the model.

Make it the exception rather than the rule.

>>51235333

Grey is fine, although it's worth googling and learning about Colour theory.

>>51235079

drybrush/10 - consider a medium thinned wash to combat the chalkiness of your drybrushing.

>>51235393
>>Grey is fine, although it's worth googling and learning about Colour theory.
are you saying i should color it blue?

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>>51235441

Paint it whatever colour you want, it's up to you. I said Grey was fine.

But pale blue does compliment orange, hence colour theory.

there's a reason it's heavily used on film posters etc Warm - cold etc.

But I cannot stress enough, paint it whatever colours you want, if you dislike even the notion of painting that colour you're going to have a bad time when it's on your entire army.

>>51235333

Old one looked better.

>>51235482
all that's been changed is the base, some silver on the rotary loader of the rifle, and the pants and the inside of the coat being colored grey - if you're seeing something else, its just a trick of the light from the photo

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>>51234823

Anon's of the WIP thread, need some advice. I picked up a box of Skitarii and I am completely stuck for a colour scheme. Does anyone know what looks good on mechanicus save the usual martian red?

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>>51235522
lemmie post some stuff

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>>51235522

I painted mine loosely based on Fallout New Vegas's NCR rangers.

I'm actually surprised how few people I saw do the same, to be honest.

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Painting bases for a herald of ruin kill team, i think i need to work more on the transitions on the red and maybe brighten the grey and red more, what do you guys think?

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>>51235547

>>51235522

A bewildering question as the logically answer is whatever colours you like.

But my advice would be to download the Skitarii and Cult Mechanicus codex from the 40k general thread and look at the army examples in there.

I think they have multiple fleshed out Forge Worlds and their colours.

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>>51235558

>>51235566
the codex has really uninspired color schemes, there is the default red/cream, then there is white/red, red/white, red/black, black/red, and then i think there is a blue one and an orange one

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>>51235589
while of course the best thing to do is pick what you prefer, i can understand wanting to have a canon color, rather than a homebrew one
-my advice would be to go have a look at the skitarii painting guide pdf and the codex look in the 40k general OP

show us your first mini :)

>>51235558
I ball hard for that Hazard one. Gonna build a Vanguard-based army fluffed to recruit from indentured forgeworkers who are dying of radiation poisoning anyway and accept augmentation as a way of bringing glory to the Machine God through their deaths.

Hoping it isn't too offensive mixed with some black/yellow 'warning' stripes on the kastelans and onagers.

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Keep it Mechanicus /wip/

Here's my WIP Cawl.

I did a bit more after the picture but progress is pretty good so far.

>>51235549
Can we see, anon? Sounds dope.

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>>51235663
remember tho that the orange color scheme is the Ryza pattern, one of the official colors

>>51235682
I absolutely love how the detail on his armour plating is coming together. Keep us posted mate.

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>>51235682

Smooth application / 10

>>51235558
One day i'm gonna buy a box of these guys just for the hotline marsami scheme, that shit makes me rock hard.

I'd almost forgotten how shitty and chunky GW golds are until I watched the Celestine video.

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>>51235685
I remember, yeah. That's the only one I like, bar maybe this one, but I've already got some necrons in the works that use a lot of white and red.

I think I might miss out on the red inner lining, too. Maybe substitute it with black or cream.

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>>51235711

Meh, they're alright.

I was ok with this job using their range.

>>51235720
i went with grey, and you can see how dark grey is >>51235333

>>51235819
Ah, I think I can see it now. Looks good anon. Initially I thought you'd gone with white but I see you've just etched the hems of the robe with it. I like it.

>>51235393
The blood would probably just be at the base, but this is a test model anyway.

>>51235079
Orange dick/10

>>51235682
The robes looks really nice but the metal parts are top level. Good work anon

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Wip of this big fella. What do you think of the overall scheme?

I need some help.

I'm a pretty shit painter, the total of my abilities is generally just prime > basecoat > wash > drybrush.

I'm painting Dark Eldar, basecoating with Naggaroth Night, wash with Druchii Violet then drybrush Xereus Purple.

This works alright on infantry, but I'm strugging with the vehicles, because I can't just wash/drybrush them, and so they've all ended up like, a shade lighter than the infantry.

What could I do?

>>51236055
I like it.

>>51235711
I disagree. Mostly.

I just used quite a bit of Liberator Gold and Retributor Armour while painting Magnus and it went on smooth and perfect. Auric Armour is fine too, but I've had some bad experiences with Balthasar Gold.

>>51236055
pretty good, my dude

i think you should wash the greens some more, but that might just be me fancying the very organic look, even on the exo

>>51236063
Don't drybrush or just follow the armour plates more carefully when you do. Also you don't really need to wash naggaroth night since it's very dark and the finish of a wash works against drybrushing since it is too smooth and it rounds off edges.

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>>51235079
Please never post this again.

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>>51236817
Kek

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>>51235173
Nice, anon.

>>51237011

Thanks.

Also, fucking saved. I was looking for a NL version of that.

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>>51237054
May it bring you many keks.

And how do you get your white for the skulls so smooth? Just
>muh multiple thin layers
or a secret paint? It's so annoying and I can't keep it out of the mouth grilles I just might make the skulls grey or something.

>>51237170

It's not as smooth as it looks, to be honest. White still plagues me, but I'm getting better. Thin coats was what I tried. If it gets in the grate, I used the corner of a paper towel to absorb the immediate run off, and when I was done, I put Nuln in there to make sure it was dark.

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>>51234823
Currently doing a Lamenter Kill Team

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>>51237313

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>>51237313
>>51237320

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>>51237313
>>51237332
Obviously any advice/opinion is welcome
The quality might vary a lot given that it's my first miniatures in literally 5 years

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>>51237313
>>51237345

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>>51237313
>>51237351
BTW, thank /tg/ for the yellow advice. it worked as expected

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>>51237313
>>51237366
Last one that I have build/paint

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>>51237274
Thanks anon, I'll try that.

>>51237313
Aside from what I assume was a primer mishap and some splotches of colour and sloppy recess shades, they look fine, Anon - although I'm not sold on the yellow bolters. In my opinion they should be all black.

>>51237320
Give the face a wash and highlight and thin your paints, they look a little chunky in certain parts. (the banner, backpack etc.)

Good for 5 years away though.

>>51237459
(That's Racist ^^)
Thanks mate, well I was doing Blood Angels before stopping but when I saw the Kill Team box I said "Why Not".
I liked the Lamenters lore, and I think the fucker would deserve a bit more in terms of stories/books.
Though Yellow paint is fucking annoying to get good

>>51237515
I've heard doing a yellow and purple /50/50 mix is a good basecoat for doing yellow.

>>51237574
Currently I am using Averland Sunset

>>51237313
Crop your pics and make them into a collage, you've used 6 post and 15MB where 1 post and maybe 3MB would do. There are apps to do this on your phone, before you trot out that excuse. This also means people don't need to reply to multiple comments. and generally makes things easier to follow.

Yellow bolter cases doesn't really work: red or black would look better.

Primer surface looks rough.
Skin could use more contrast, looks quite flat as-is. Shade deeper and highlight higher.
Metallics look chunky, esp on >>51237320, remember to still thin them. Just because it's a metallic doesn't mean it should cover in one coat.

All that said, they'll look fine on the table, just not in close up. Something to work on as you progress.

>>51237605
>Crop your pics and make them into a collage, you've used 6 post and 15MB where 1 post and maybe 3MB would do. There are apps to do this on your phone, before you trot out that excuse. This also means people don't need to reply to multiple comments. and generally makes things easier to follow.

Sry for the pictures. We'll do next time.

>Primer surface looks rough.
>Skin could use more contrast, looks quite flat as-is.
>Shade deeper and highlight higher.
Metallics look chunky, esp on >>51237320 (You), remember to still thin them. Just because it's a metallic doesn't mean it should cover in one coat.

Ok, I though that metallic didn't need to because when you thin them they get very transparent and unhomogenous

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Started on the bandersnatch itself now.
Still got a lot to do, the skin is going to be even paler and I'll be blending up from the rock he's coming out of.

>>51237602
eek that base yellow still isn't good enough by it's self since it goes all thick and chalky like a lot of gws brighter colours.

>>51237714
Hoenstly, I liked him better before the OSL.

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Rate?

So, as someone who's also wants to start painting yellow (Imperial Fists mainly), I'd like to ask:
1. What undercoat should I use? I've heard good things about both, white and gray undercoats, though personally I'd get a can of gray, especially with Genecults backlog
2. So as I've read here ( >>51237754 ), Averland Sunset isn't really good - any substitutes or suggestions what could I do to make them better?
Thanks in advance WIPanons, may your brushes always have a nice tip on them.

Can someone recommend a good clear matt glaze?

Some of my models are too shiny and I want to make it more matt.

>>51238141
Damn, takes me back to when I was 8 and got those for Christmas, great work dude!

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8 years since I started this hobby and it's the first time I don't fuck up the eyes

>>51235079
mmmold

>>51238291
Pretty good, but try to use washes.Results will be much better.

>>51235079
>that visible seamline along the nose
anon, your work is far from finished.

>>51237877
so did I. If I try OSL again in the future i'll learn from my mistakes and hopefully do better.

>>51237379
>>51237366
>>51237351
>>51237345
>>51237332
>>51237320
Nice detail work, especcialy on the plasma gun.

As the others said, consider using more, thinner layers.

>>51238141
Uruk/10
Maybe add some minor highlights on the metal and skin bits.

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>>51238880
Still working on Celestine.
Going out to buy cork for the base.

>>51238934

Where does one find tiny feet like that?

>>51239020
DE Scourges.
You'll have to remove the big toe claw and do some fitting though, hence the current rough look (will have to smooth them with Greenstuss later).

>>51235550
I think its looking great.

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My first Vostroyan.

>>51239666
I think the winged skull on the gun could do with a black wash then going over with metal again. At the moment it looks really flat

>>51239819
You're right, it does look flat.
Thanks for pointing that out!

>>51239666
You should make an all-over wash with Agrax Earthshade, then repaint the non-shaded area with the same one you already used, and then highlight if you have lighter paints of the colors you own

>>51235682
any guides for painting metal like that?.... i always struggle with metallics

>>51238934
nice feet

>>51239868
Thanks for the suggestion!
I washed the gold and leather parts with Agrax and highlighted them.
Does Agrax on Mephiston Red look good, or should I get another color for the wash on the uniform's cloth?

>>51239978
Agrax will work fine over red. It will tone down the brightness of the color a fair bit though. So often people then do another coat of red on the raised areas. The advice people are giving is good, but keep in mind you'll need to paint a lot of these guys. I'd try to keep it as simple as you're happy with.

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>>51234823
based Dunc

>>51238354
Not him, but explain. What problems in the model with this solve and why?

As far as I can see there's plenty of contrast there in the shadows, if anything I'd be suggesting pushing the contrast with an extra highlight.

What wpuld you use as a Jokaero conversion? Starting Inquisition, but everything is out of stock.

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So guys, anyone have any experience with Purity Seal? I wanna get it to spray my minis down when I'm through painting, but I've heard horror stories about it completely fucking up ruined models.

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>>51230842
How about mixing in teal with a grey for the ruins, with some kind of dark volcanic looking color for the sand, with bright green moss and lichen for foliage

also just while i'm on my pulpit a base isn't just there to be neutral, good choices can really help frame a miniature. There is a whole lot of room between the far ends of totally neutral and overwhelmingly and abrasively garish that you can play in.

>>51240588
Don't buy purity seal. I pay my markup to GW for everything else, but purity seal is a bad product and you should not use it.

That said, I don't have any real recs for a replacement if you're UK based. Testor's Dullcote is supposed to be great.

>>51240679
I'm in the US, hit me up with recs my dude

>>51240149
They may be referring to how weird it looks that the white of the eye transitions immediately to the lightest skin tone on the model - they don't look recessed, they just like googly eyes painted on

>>51240721
testor's dullcote is pretty much the beginning and end of the discussion - you can buy it on amazon

>>51240588
All spray clearcoats are finicky. None of them are without horror-stories because they're so sensitive to temperature and humidity. I've used Purity Seal as well as a number of other brands and the best advice I can give is to always test spray before you use it on your models. Take some primed sprue or something and spray it with the clearcoat like you would your models and leave it to dry in the same way you will for your models. If all looks good at that point go ahead and do your models.

>>51240746
Dullcote is nasty shit. Not a big fan.

>>51240806
what do you prefer? ive never found a matte spray with better results

>>51240377
Get the Vampire Count Cairn Wraith and convert it into some sort of techpriest ghost.
If you're deadset on the monkey theme get the Empire powdermonky or the Discqorld librarian and slap some tech bits on.

>>51240806
You're not supposed to hotbox the dullcote, anon.

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Keeping it AdMech in here. Finished Papa Dominus yesterday and should be finished with the Dunecrawler and the rest of the Rangers (Yes I built them as Rangers sue me) tonight.

In the mean time I'm working with Martian Ironearth for the first time and it seems fine on the 32mm bases but on the larger bases it feels like it's not really working too well, especially on the 130mm base where the brush strokes are super apparent. Should I be going too thick or too thin when using it? They're drying right now while at work, so I'll be able to take photos of them when I'm home.

>>51240377
You can get a bunch Orangs from other companies.
MicroArts studio has a line of Discworld miniatures, so you can get the librarian from there.
Pulp city and the Judge Dredd game have tons of different monkeys and apes, but both of course also have orangs specifically. The Judge Dredd one wears a Hawaiian shirt irc, so maybe that doesn't fit that well, but the Pulp City orang is some kind of evil genius that sits on a bunch of machinery.
Reaper also has at least two. One is a shaman/druid the other is armed with an assault rifle and dangling from a lamp post.
Crooked Dice has a planet of the apes line, maybe you can find something useful here.
Impact Miniatures had a line of Apes for blood bowl apparently.
eureka had some hacking chimps.

And either Northstar or Foundry might have had some more animal like depictions.
Not sure about the last two though.

>>51240825
I like Army Painter's spray varnishes.

>>51237313
is that the entire population of the chapter?

Any tips on painting eldar cloth underneath their armour plates?
Seems comparibly simple on guardians with shades or somethng, but for things like aspect warriors, I'd like a gameplan going in.

>>51240846
rangers do look cooler tho

>>51235173
I fucking love the white in the helmet. Makes me want to start a NL army!

Anyone know of any companies that produce turrets/weapons/sponsons which will fit a gdub razorback?

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>>51240846

Nice to see all the AdMech today.

This was my first model in about 8 years, just need to base him now.

>>51240588
>>51240679
>>51240798
Have any of you ever tried spray polyurethane? It goes on pretty nicely and comes in matte and gloss.

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NMM Copper status: not so good.

This is one of those moments when you don't know if continue and try to make it look better or start all over.

>>51241328
Forgeworld.

>>51241328
FW or make them yourself. Spare asscannons and Lasplas are fairly easy to come by if you've been collecting SM for a while.

>>51238141
Manflesh/10

>>51241507
It doesnt look that bad, it looks more like molten lava in the centre of the mace, Id say keep it and work on with it unless your trying for a golden daemon

>>51241507
i'd say your highlights on the copper are too much, bring in more of the mid tone

>>51241616
>it looks more like molten lava in the centre of the mace
Yeah that's the idea here lol, I was talking about the brownish metal part of the mace. Anyway I'm going to apply a bit of OSL over the mace to intesify the molten lava effect in the core.

No fucking idea if this is fluffy but hey rule of cool.

>>51241662
Was thinking exactly the same, I'll try and see how it goes.

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>>51241681
Try glaving the copper with a brown of some sort, as it looks like bleached copper atm
this is a copper/bronze mix but you get the idea

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So I'm new to models and whatnot, and I got myself some cadian troopers. Not the shock troopers, but the $10 one. My question is, should I remove the block of plastic at their feet and try and get a solid base instead? Or is this fine?
I would like to eventually base them on some like dirt and maybe a tuff of grass.

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After many months I'm done with Super Dungeon Explore.It wall hell of a ride, really fun models, but I'm glad I can focus on something else (and finally play it with my friends).

>>51240588
I had an INCIDENT once, cried to GW and they gave me a fat voucher for my troubles. The can itself was fucked - I used an older can and it was fine, weather conditions were good.

I now make sure to test the cans on spare models first. I would use another brand, but there are no decent ones available locally. Most of the time it works just fine.

>>51241988

Nice work anon. The game is really great too, hope you enjoy it

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Skyfire and her lil'dragons, I'm quite happy how bases with fake gold and gems turned out.

>>51242038
CUTE!

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Been making more progress on my bases, brighten upp the highlights on the first one, man do i love tiles

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Rex, I didn't paint his ugly brother, since I'm not sure if it's possible to have them both on table at same time.

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almost there it's time for heroes
panda-druid is my fav here

>>51235522
Stygies VIII.

Black robes, red armor plates.

>>51241920
You can leave it, i think. You can make dirt using Citadel Texture paints and, suddenly, tufts from Citadel, Army Painter and Green Stuff World.

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and rest of the heroes, unfortunately photo is crap and they look dull on it. I promise that assasin have 10/10 botty and cleav.

>>51242151
how long did this take you?

>>51241507
Now it looks weird, but if you manage to insert some copper in the base meaby it works.

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>>51234823
>tfw your OC is in the OP image

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>>51242321
>tfw your OC is in the OP image

tfw *your* OC is the image another anon uses to rave about *his* OC being the OP.

>Excuse me, sir. Seeing as how the VP is such a VIP, shouldn't we keep the PC on the QT? 'Cause if it leaks to the VC he could end up MIA, and then we'd all be put on KP.

>>51242207
with breaks for other projects (I've painted 10 nobz, 25 boyz, 5 koptas, crew for Malifaux and something else I can't recall) it took me... 15 months? But note that I've painted only at weekends, and not every of them.

>>51242451
thats still impressive, I have the game but haven't painted any of them, but this has given me an urge to want to. Did you use GW paints?

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>>51234823

So, left my marines in a tub of simple green for a night or two. Should they look like this after being scrubbed? Should I leave them in longer to make it easier? I just wanna repaint them lmao. How long to keep em in in order to fully remove all paint and glue?

Help

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>>51242531

Also there is a LOT of paint still in the recesses that the brush was having difficulty removing. Along with that a bunch of my marines I got off ebay are back in their sexy Black Templar colors but I'd like to repaint them. The coats I painted over it melted tf off but the BT hardly even scratched off. How long should that sit for?

Should I generally leave them in the tub for a week?

(I may need more SG)

>>51241507
Please take what I say with a pinch of salt because I'm in no way experienced in art or painting.

To me the copper look fantastic, as in, the look of the copper itself, however...

I'm not sure if it's working on this model, it's almost like the weapon just kind of blends in and it really isn't letting the lava ball thing pop like it could.

But this is just my opinion from a 0 experienced background, I have absolutely no suggestion for a better alternative

>>51242490
I use mish-mash of citadel and vallejo.
I've boought vallejo because muh price and dropper bottles - but desu they ain't that good, especially Game Color range.
I love their air metalics, works like a charm when paiting with brush.

But as more paints form Citadel I got, as more easy stuff became. Especially after buying Rakath Flesh - mang, i used it for skin, teeth, horns, foundation for yellow and white, great thing. And same colour form VGC was horrible to work with.
Not to mention citadel great washes and technical paints.

>>51242531

Give it some extra time, a day extra will help. Also scrub it like it owes you money, dont pussyfoot around it, the toothbrush isnt going to break the model, do it properly.

Sometimes the primer is really hard to get off completely, just be patient and keep working on them.

>>51242598

Gotcha, will do.

>>51242563
>>51242250
Thanks for the input. Let's see how it turns out first, there's always time to base again and try another option.

My Mechanicum are an Ordo Reductor fleet with an extremely high number of Genetors/Biologis, whose purpose was to discover, study and kill Xenos beasts and species that proved troublesome during the Great Crusade. They develop and make use of large numbers of cloned monstrosities and viruses, bio-weaponry of all kinds.

Gamewise I'm just starting to put the army together, and wondering over the conversion work I want to do. Also colours. Lots of Nid parts, obviously. Thinking of having some converted "Spore mine" Cyber-Occularis and biological shells stacked on the medusae gunnery platforms. Crypt Ghoul levy tarpits, and not sure what to do for Magi yet. Anyone have any good ideas for colour schemes or converting? Something whitish, with Nihilakh Oxide for cool "antiseptic" blue weathering on metal? This is my first army that doesn't have a prescribed scheme already, so I ahve no idea what looks/works good.

Thing is, I want it to look "Mad Science put to warfare" not Tyranids or Nurgle, so not full bio-abomination on the vehicles or personnel that are sentient and not robots or chaff, ect.

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>>51239969
thanks

>>51242744
>Thing is, I want it to look "Mad Science put to warfare" not Tyranids or Nurgle, so not full bio-abomination on the vehicles or personnel that are sentient and not robots or chaff, ect.
Have you considered looking into DE Haemoculi stuff?

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How do I do blood without it looking edgy or excessive?

None of my other orks have it, but the entry for Headwoppa's Killchoppa describe it as a "blood-slick big choppa" so I'd like to do something along those lines.

>>51242744
Buddy of mine's Mechanicum has a similar idea. He used skaven stormfiends with the gas mask bullgryn heads as castellax with some other stuff thrown in.

>>51242919
You're a braver man than I. I'm planning on breaking greyfax into a few more pieces for painting.

>>51243042
>warhammer
>not excessive or edgy with it's amounts of blood.

>>51242946
I have, but it looks far too crazy. This is industrialized bio-warfare, so virus-sphere sacs loaded into Medusa artillery by servitors with hordes of flash-cloned creatures rush the enemy. Creepy, yes, but purposeful, and the "Stick creepy spikes and fleshy bits everywhere" thing detracts from that a bit.

>>51243107

Damn, that's a good idea. I was going to get some Ogryns to make into Mechanicus 40k Praetorians (Custodes rules) anyway, so it would work perfectly. I'd need to cut away some of the parts and armour them up a bit with maybe Kataphron Breacherplate, but that will work well. Thanks, that fixed the "I am far too poor to play Cybernetica" problem as well..

>>51243108
I figure I'll be able to get under the cape enough to so a reasonable job on the scabbard and the back part of her loincloth.

>>51243042
>How do I do blood without it looking edgy
You don't. Unless you are painting true scale minis it's gonna look edgy on the more whimsical Fantasy stuff.
>or excessive?
Just don't overdo it. You just need a tiny bit on the axeblade to make it look used.
Is it realistic? No, but realism looks like shit in that scale.

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I'm making player character models for my pathfinder group. I like how they are coming out while they stay on the table, but they look like shit up close. I keep fucking up the little details and the paint gets chunky in some places.

Should I thin my paints more? Should I just suck it up and git gud?

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>>51243276
Another one

I had a dream when I went back in time to save Duncan from time-travelling assassins who are sick of being made fun of for they gray plastic armies.

How was your evening, /wip/? Anyone started any new projects?

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Options on colour scheme?

>CSM Daemon Prince in the mail
>forgot that it's not metal anymore
>literally clusterfucked to hell with flash from "Finecast"
>have to remove, file, GS, file to get a decent finish
Kill me.

>>51243331
take another picture with the lights off please.

>>51243276
They look fine for tabletop quality to me.

>>51243276
>>51243299
Look fine to me.
Mybe add some last highlights.
Also leave the eyes as they are, unless you get it JUST right, painted eyes tend to detract rather than improve a miniature's look.

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>>51243349
I know that pain, and is not a good pain.

Probably going to go with the idea from >>51243107

Does anyone have a scale comparison of a Kastellan/Castellax automata and a Stormfiend? I'd like to know how much I need to armour them up and how thick to make the cork base to approximate the right height.

Simple Green questions.

How much exposure to air does it need? I don't imagine I can stick Simple Green and models in a sealed container, after all.
Any dilution with water okay?

I'm trying to strip spray paint that *isn't* primer from some secondhand miniatures.

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Been working on my Neophyte Cultists today. Wanted to just paint their fronts for now so I could finally glue on their arms and use them on tabletop while I keep working on them.

Thoughts? I might add some Nulin oil over the fatigues to make them have more contrast. As for the shoulder pads, I was gonna due Macragge Blue, as that's the color my Hive Fleet as on their chitin, with some white numbering.

>>51243191
>>51243581
Yeah no prob, they're pretty close in size so I doubt anybody willing to play against a converted army would have no problem as long as its done well.

>>51242556

Out of curiosity, is the dude on the right ok to be reprimed and painted? (spoiler: he was never primed the first paintjob)

>>51243581
>tfw I have 9 fiends that I use as obliterators mutilators
Guess they will work as robots for dark admech

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Working on a 10 man Alpha Legion tactical squad and two apothecaries for the time being.

>>51243975
As it is, you'll loose some details.

>>51243828
would have a* problem

>>51244024

That's what I thought. Yeah gonna let the whole batch of models sit in simple green for maybe a week or two. Maybe more idk. I just wanna make sure I get em done clean.

Might also invest in a metal bristle brush. I hate crevices.

>>51243828
>>51244044
>>51244004

Thanks a bunch, that means I can actually make this army better, cheaper and more fun to make. Don't really know anything that doesn't cover. Now just to decide on a paint scheme...

>>51234823
>that OP pic
I'm fucking dying.
>>51243799
If you're adding another different colour, I'd say to do it on the mask as well

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>>51243799

>5.6MB
>6000x4000

For starters, you can take the time to crop your pictures. There is no need for that much picture. Pic related.

Second meme, your paints should be thinner. The metallics are especially noticeable, but that's a thing with the metallics. The gold on the eagle is where its most noticeable.

Nuln oil on the fatigues would definitely be good because right now, they're flat.

>>51244151
I do thin paints, but didn't know metallics need it more so.

What do size should I crop down to?

>>51238166
I like red-brown as a base, look at Vallejo cavalry red maybe

>>51235703
hardly counts when it's airbrushed

>start painting Saint Celestine thinking I have everything
>base her in Retributor
>go through my gold and silver
>notice my brightest tones are Auric Armor and Runefang Steel
>FLGS is closed tomorrow
Crap.

>>51244805

So? Still looks great

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>>51234823
Has anyone actually made a decently painted kingdom death figure? Why are so many fucked up? The face?

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>>51244182

Generally speaking, just running them through an editor on your phone should do it. Pic related. I literally just cropped it in my preloaded studio.

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>>51244931

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>>51244931

I dunno, anon, google produces fine results to me.

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>>51244931
There are some astonishing ones out there. http://www.arcanepaintworks.com/blog-1/2016/4/19/true-metallics-vs-non-metallic-metals

>>51244931
>Why are so many fucked up?

becuase a lot of them are bought by first time wargamers/boardgamers/kickstarter hipsters who don't have good painting skills yet

>>51244897
>FLGS closed tomorrow
But MLK day is today, Anon. Or is your shop closed on Tuesdays?

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>>51245256
this to be quite honest

these faggots literally pay double their monthly salary up front and sit on their hands for years until the moment has arrived for them to paint a legion of grey plastic. They could have spent all that time perfecting their skills on a single decent dinosaur toy painted over and over again, but no... they immediately slap on walmart brand acrylics and bitch an moan about no prepaint.

>mfw tons of people asked for advice on how to get good at painting during the kickstarter rush
>tell 'em to check out /wip/
>WHIP A SHIT, NOTHING BUT JOHNNY POSTING


See you guys in a little under a year when the core is shipped to people like this start coming out of the woodwork.

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Hmm. So I'm looking for airbrushes and decided to check actual stores instead of online. I found this at my local Home Depot; it's $13.34, which undercuts even the cheapest Amazon brush. But, is it worth it? Does anyone have experience with it? It comes with two vials AND a hose, which beats Amazon by at least $10 if I get all of that.

>>51245530
Every time I see someone suggesting painting the same mini over and over again I wonder if they've actually done it, and if so, how? I'd go fucking insane.

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Don't know if you can see it, but I added a little white dot to the eyes and touch ups here and there to make em look better

>>51245083
Ah I see. I'm actually using a professional camera though, not my phone.

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Working on Celestine still. I've reduced her lip size, as suggested.

>>51245542
Siphon feed airbrushes are worse for miniatures than gravity feed, they require higher pressures and so don't give you as much control. This brush is also single action, so you have MAX PAINT MAX AIR or no paint, no air.

If you want to do most of the stuff people envy airbrushes for, you want a double action gravity feed. If you literally only want to prime and basecoat, this one will probably get the job done until it breaks.

>>51245542
It's bottom feed and I believe top feed in preferred. The thing about cheap airbrushes is the need tends to foul up. But at that price you could just buy a whole set for a compareable cost. That thing at the bottom right is designed to screw on to those compressed air can. One of those will probably run as much as the set and don't last long either.

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>>51245584
when I was a kid I pulled something like 17 of the exact same mini in Mage knight; I got exceedingly good at painting this faggot.

Wasn't boring at all to me, I experimented with every new paint I bought on them. At one point I invited over my brother's normie friends and held a miniature painting lesson -- they got to take their Tribal Brutes home with em, and they fucking loved it.

Man the distrobution of this game was dildos...

>>51245606

That would explain the size, then. I would assume you could do the same thing on your computer though.

>>51244903
It definitely does, I'm just saying that to praise a smooth coat is a bit silly when airbrushing does that for you. If it was done with a brush however it'd be far more impressive.

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>>51245584

>Every time I see someone suggesting painting the same mini over and over again I wonder if they've actually done it, and if so, how? I'd go fucking insane.

You've never played Sisters of Battle. I like to think painting the same 5 models for 10 years has helped.

Pic related. Left is one of my earliest, middle is somewhere along the line, and the right one is my latest that I haven't decided how I'm basing yet.

>>51245618
I want to get her, but I have no interest in the other two. I'm also waiting on my SoB order with Veridyan and 2 Immolators, which is still on fucking backorder.

>>51245618
She looks like if Willam DaFoe and that Die Antwoord chick had a kid.

>>51245952
I split the box three ways, so didn't have to worry about it. Celestine and the rest of Destinys Child for £15 wasn't bad.
I regret not picking up the Immo's when I could - with the big new formation thing I need more than the 9 I have, which I never thought I'd say.

>>51245238
>>51245104
thanks for the replies lads
>>51245161
unfortunately only good ones I've seen didn't have any tutorials on what they did right. I think what makes or breaks it is the face.
Found a guy that makes decent tutorials for certain figs here
http://gallery.kingdomdeath.com/Architect-Advanced-Painting-Guide

>>51245380
Closed on Tuesdays, which always happens to be the day I'd have the most time to visit the store.

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>>51245645
>>51245669
Okay, both of these are very good points and have convinced me it's a bad buy. In that case, I've decided that unless someone has a good reason for me not to, I'm getting pic related to start to learn airbrushing. I wish the paint pot was interchangeable so I didn't have to clean it every time I swap colours, but I'll make do I suppose.

Anything else I should know or grab while I'm getting these? I already have a compressor.

>>51246066

That brush is fine for starting. Graduate to a smoother, higher quality brush that costs more when you feel ready. Buy an extra needle cause you're gonna bend the first one.

>>51245921
>>51245711

I understand more when you keep it (my tacticals are hardly hugely different to one another), but people suggest stripping and repainting literally the same miniature and that's what would kill me.

Without being able to see progress (I know photos exist, but it's not the same) it would be so soul destroying.

>>51245989

I only have 5, and two exorcists. Sadly, I wasn't playing through all of 6th and missed when they went unavailable, but at the time, I didn't need more than that. Back then, it was still 10 sisters in a rhino for troops.

What Imperium army looks the best in the Skitarii/Cult Mechanicus colour scheme?

I'm new to 40k and am planning on starting with Skitarii, however the lack of a transport makes me feel like I'm going to be screwing myself over as a newbie to the game, so my plan was to either get a bunch of space marines or guardsmen to go with them, for the sake of being able to have transports for my troops. I was wondering what would look the best paired with some generic mechanicus troops. I was thinking either going with Space Marines, getting generic troops, and then maybe a Techmarine to better fit the theme, or getting Death Korps guardsmen, since they seem to fit well with them, especially with all the trench coats, masks, and big dieselpunk stuff.

What would be a better idea, I don't really care about rules, and honestly I'm half inclined to buy a fuckload of Techmarines and just use them as regular space marines, despite the cost, since I care a lot about making sure that my army will look right once I finish everything.

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I need some help /tg/

I'm at a loss on what color the armor plating should be on this guy.

I like the padding color though, but what color plating would go well with the green padding?

I'm not too sure about the reddish brown so far.

>>51246341
Keep the armor plating the same its great.

Change the padding instead, maybe go for a darker more brownish green to match the armor plating, and it would look fantastic.

>>51246103
I mean if you're just getting into the hobby, you really should be spending your money on supplies moreso than models. Imagine that instead of having 10 different minis all of the same mold sitting on your desk and more of you trying out 10 different schemes on only 2 of the same figures. It's the same result, just one of them gets to visibly see themselves get better without the help of photo graphs.

that being said I only suggest the PAINT ONE MODEL thing to people that were complaining about how their bank account is now depleted and they still want to get good at painting.

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>>51245711
>flesh, bone, hair, leather, metal and wood
this is like the best case scenario for getting good off of infinitely painting one miniature. It's molded peepers are a plus, but some might view that as a crutch (EYE don't)

Yep, this is how they use to come out of the pack... Really nice sculpt though.

>>51240653
Hey, thanks for the reply so late.

So what I'm thinking is a near-black color for the sand, with a dark green drybrush. I like the idea for the teal, but I have no idea what I would use to shade and weather it to represent something that color being an ancient ruin. For the exact shade, let's just assume I'm using Sotek Green.

I might use some foliage, I'm not a big fan of it on bases, but since my theme for these bases is supposed to be "long-abandoned exodite world" that will probably work. I was idly considering water features as well.

>>51246204

Adeptus Custodes, Imperial Guard, Flesh Tearers, Blood Angels.

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>>51246341
keep those colors as they are

maybe add a wash to the padding

if you want to weather that armor here's a reference for you.

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Pretty pleased with how this Deer came out.

Hidden unit marker for Muskets and Tomahawks.

>>51246913
bretty good, that basing is gorgeous work.

what did you use for the dandylion puffs?

>>51246968
Cheers. I bought some flower tufts, they do all the work for me.

>>51246797
Is custodes a 40k army?

I didn't see it on the website.

>>51246968
I think the DIY solution would be to glue a clump of static grass into place, then spritz it with some thinned PVA and sprinkle on some white flock.

>>51246341
I'd be inclined to go with a dark olive green. It would give them a cool sort of "Weird War 2" military look.

>>51241404
Looks neatly done. Only thought would be to darken the red of the robe a bit, it looks perhaps a bit too clan next to the rest of the model.

>>51247112
that sounds incredibly hard to control, then again how do you quantify "spritz" exactly?

>>51246204
Chimera are a good choice of transports. I think your instinct for guard are a good one. Other regiments to consider are Vostroyans, who have a related barque look and similar default scheme and Steel Legion who also have greatcoats and gas masks, although slightly more streamlined.

>>51247106
No. There are rules for them, but they aren't more than a squad of allied troops at this point.

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>>51247158
>Spritz
That which comes from a spritzer bottle. Less than a spray. A bit more than a flick.

Orks players:

Do you use subassemblies for flash gitz? The model sort of looks impossible to paint without it, but YouTube seems to suggest most people don't?

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Apologies for the still-low-quality photos, but how do you guys feel about different patterns in your paint schemes? I started painting this second Venom and I had a different idea for how to apply my pattern. Should I stick to one pattern or do you think this is fine?

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Brand new to the hobby
Decided to play astra miltatarum

How the fuck do you do this

>>51247955
thin your paints.

add a dab of water to thin it down, you'll get way more control over the paint spread. Also if you do multiple thin layers over one thick, you'll have far more detail show through.

>>51247955
did you read/watch any tutorials?

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This is my first mini painted ever.
Could I get some feedback in it? I got 4 more left to paint and want to improve on each one.

>>51247955
Just paint inside the lines.

>>51241507
I know what to do, had similar issue with some older models of mine back when i was getting into understanding colour theory bla bla and all that other artsy shit.

In my opinion, the highlights of the mace, are too similar to the rest of the other metals, while it's shading is a browny pink, which washes it in with the armour a fair amount. If i were you, What I would do is darken the mace another step and if you're going to add a bit of hue, don't go for that pinky brown it currently is. I remember in the last thread, someone suggested to you rose gold, but seeing that mace now and thinking about it, rose gold was the worst fucking idea they could have given you seeing as the reflective part of the red armour is almost a rose colour itself.

So, imo, go for a brown to darken it/lessen the rose tint Then highlight it with a colour that's more yellow/brown as opposed to the fairly white highlights you have already. I think it'll make it look 10x better.

this will also add emphasis to the mace's central point where the "lava" looking orb is. and it stops detracting from the main piece of the model itself/the armour.

>>51247873
looks good, just needs cleaned up

>>51247873
Nah, it should be fine. Variety can actually help in remembering differences between them, like having different squads or weapons.

>>51248028
Way better then mine :(

>>51248028
Looks pretty solid for a first go. Paint is a little thick and the face is a little fucked

http://imgur.com/a/1pYbX

Didn't want to be a bad guy and spam the thread with images. Was in such a rush to finish these last Friday I forgot so many small details, like the belt on the Kaptain's jacket, various small ropes all around the poles, the eyes, and some of the smaller teeth and bullets scattered about. The Clear coat I was using also ended up being a lot shinier than I thought it would be, which is kind of upsetting.

>>51248126
matt varnish will kill the shine nigga

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First time painter here and trying to figure out what colours I need to paint a model in this color scheme.

Is it common practice to mix paints together to make different colours?

>>51248028

I've seen far worse, especially first time.

Painting white sucks. The aquila on the helmet is thick and ran off a bit, but it's a little better on the gun. Don't start with white. In fact when painting white, your don't use that much pure white. Start with like a bone color and work up from there in thin layers. Then, use white to highlight the finish.

Overall, your highlights aren't terrible, which is good because most first timers don't highlight at all. Making the lines a little thinner and/or highlighting further would go a long way.

It looks washed, which helps a lot, but there's a few spots that could use some Nuln or something. The biggest thing that catches my eye is where the stock meets the elbow. There's no shadow there.

The face is fucked, and possibly meme worthy, but faces can be hard. Trust me. >>51245921 is mine. I had a rough time with them.

Keep it up.

>>51248028
Looks like you have the idea. The next main step from here would probably be simply getting your lines neater and edge highlights thinner. That should come with practice but think about how you're bracing your hands to reduce shaking. Also don't be afraid to go back and clean up mistakes. Your trooper could use a little work on the green on his hands. on his helmet around the face and the symbol on the helmet.

>>51248142
I stuff I used was labeled as a matte. So fuck me, right? I'll have to get Krylon or something.

>>51248310
matte and gloss have degrees of flat or shine. Get the testors dullcoat. Best rattlecan around

>>51248228
>Is it common practice to mix paints together to make different colours?
Not really no. If you are trying to paint an entire army the same color, you won't replicate. The only times it is commonly done is for small one-off details or when creating smooth blends between colors.

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Guy from >>51243799 here.

I did the wash, but used Agrax Earthshade. Actually enjoy how it came out. Gives it a dirty look. Also, tried some more thinning for the fatigues.

>>51248258
>>51248262
I think it would help if I had more of a detail brush, I have a rather large brush i was using for highlights and details, so it made it hard.
Thanks for the feedback, I know how to smooth up my next trooper.

>>51248228

Fuck, just had a looked at the size of the actual mini's and realized how fucked I am. These things are tiny! Painting details on these things must be really difficult to make look good.

>>51248028
Painting white over anything but grey is really hard. I suggest doing a grey first, and then highlighting with white.

If you can get your hands on some Gloss Shade, in your favorite flavor, that stuff works wonders. If you use it, you will also need some matte varnish (such as Testor Model Master Lusterless)

>>51248394
I used a grey, and then went to highlight with the white, and I think I had too much white and fucked it up,

>>51248228

It's common practice for advanced painters. Most of us normal plebs just buy the colors pre-mixed in various shades. This means we have to buy 3 different blues but the pros just use one blue and mix in black or white.

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>>51247106
>Is custodes a 40k army?
>>51247198
>No. There are rules for them, but they aren't more than a squad of allied troops at this point.

I think they are *meant* for 30K, as the Sisters of Silence are no longer supposed to exist by the "present day" of Warhammer 40,000... but the Adeptus Custodes *cetainly* exist, it's just ... there'd have to be something really nasty for them to get the order to leave The Emperor's side!

>>51248379

I used to do that, too. That's what my old sisters were painted with. Go to Walmart and grab some cheap thin brushes and get some Masters paint. It's not ideal, but for starting out, it'll get the job done.

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Currently working on painting Celestine and Friends metallic purple. I'm not sure what to do with the other colors though, particularly their sleeves and capes. Corsets I'm debating between white and black but unsure. Iconography either gold or silver.

>>51248228
>>51248338
You can however buy paint and premix your own shades for an entire army.

>>51248505
I was gonna suggest black sleeves with white on the inside, before i read that you are thinking about that too.
some of the official schemes have the color divided like that too.

>>51248532
sure you can, but it is easier and less money to find the color you want. Between all the different paint brands, they are so many colors.

>>51248448

Just paint their red helmet puppydog tails black instead of red and you have 40k Custodes.

So, I know you're supposed to drill barrels, but do you do them for lasguns? Wouldn't they have a lens or something at the end? Plus, it seems like it would be awkward to drill, since it is so small.

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So thinking of making 5 Erelim to have as Astoraths squad for fun games. They well be super easy to make (though boring) if I follow the lore to the T. Will just call them a death company squad that uses the Sanguinary Guard jump packs and take other parts from the assault squads. However where can I get those skull like helmets? Also thinking of modeling them with inferno pistols and power weapons seeing as they are technically Chaplains.

>>51238141
Those look fucking great for some conversions and greenstuffing

>>51248583
I always thought it was a lens too, but GW sells a drill bit that is "lasgun sized"

Paint it up as a lens

>>51248583
Just paint a black(or red if you want a laser lens) dot.

>>51248627
>However where can I get those skull like helmets? Also thinking of modeling them with inferno pistols and power weapons seeing as they are technically Chaplains.

>as they are technically Chaplains.
>However where can I get those skull like helmets?
mh...

In case buying chaplains it too expensive google around for what people use to convert plastic miniatures into chaplains.
If you are handy I'd recommend cutting the front half of a helmet off and putting a skull face from an actual scull in there before adding tubing in the cheeks and filling the eyesockes with some lenses.
If not just check out some of the 3rd party companies. Maxmini even has a chaplain conversion set.
If you got some chaos warriors the champion should also have a skull helmet. The old chaos biker squad that came with the metal bits also had a champion helmet that looked pretty awesome with the horns shaved off.

Or make a pressmold off of one of your chaplain models.

>>51248583
>>51248646

The lens is probably inside the barrel. If it really is just some focusing lenses, I really doubt it needs to be as long and gun-shaped as they are, so..

>>51248744
it makes some sense to have at least a protective lens on the outside. You don't want mud and crap getting inside the barrel.

>>51248736
Totally forgot about the old blood angels chaplain. Dont have one on me but will see about press molding one after I find the head. Thanks for the advice. Will also need to grab some power weapons with skulls and such.

>>51248634
no they don't cause they aren't conversions or greenstuff.

>>51240679
I use the testor coats and haven't had many problems but you have to be incredibly careful, it sprays thick. You barely have to touch the mini and a little goes a long way.

>>51241988
Cute!

>>51248333
I'll see if any place around me carries it, thanks.

>>51248968
its not the cheapest but its solid gold shit nigga

>>51248968
Even testors has different levels of dull coat. A lot of people swear by the "testors model masters lusterless" spray.

I bought a can myself to see, but it is too cold and dark for me to try it.

I was getting pissed off that my airbrush dropper bottle paints were always getting a billion tiny bubbles in them whenever I shook them up, because they are so watery compared to regular paints they get those bubbles really easily, like foam when you shake your drink.

Then I found out even Vallejo says it their official FAQ, you don't shake dropper bottle paints, you ROLL THEM BETWEEN YOUR HANDS.

>mfw

>>51248997
>its not the cheapest

Yeah no kidding. It's literally the most expensive AND the can is half the size of other brands. I use Army Painter Anti-Shine because it's almost as good but has like three times more per can. It's worth buying the expensive mattes like Testors and AP though because the cheap matte varnish is fucking garbage.

>>51249150
That's one complaint I have about Vallejo (and it'd be an easy fix on their part); no agitators in the droppers. What is rolling the bottles like play-doh supposed to DO without something in there to mix with?

>>51249194

Okay, so before I start grinning and rubbing my hands together like some /pol/ meme, I should be dropping agitators in the VMA bottles? Totally glad you brought this up before I started shaking. Rolling.

>>51249194

Even Reaper includes skull bead agitators in their droppers. REAPER. Come on, now Vallejo, how are you going to be shown up by REAPER of all companies?

>>51249293
Not sure what you are getting at with saying it like that.
Never heard anything bad about the paints and all the reaper minis I have are just as good as any other metal minis I have.

>>51249428

Vallejo is a company that SOLELY makes paints. They are a paint company (in addition to other paint-like accessories like pastes). They also make pretty high quality paints and are basically the highest quality acrylics in this particular market, for example look at the Metal Color line.

Reaper paint isn't bad, but it's basically just average tier. They don't even make the paint themselves, it's sourced from another company.

This is like Forge World making a model that is inferior to GW or even Mantic.

>>51249428
Vallejo is a paint company, Reaper is a miniature company.

>>51249493
how about you just get the fuck over it because paints have been around forever and agitators too, but rarely sold together.

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My first figurines that aren't bloated messes...How am I doing so far? Also, is my picture quality better?

>>51249656

You mad, Reaperfag?

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>>51235079

>that pic

>>51249763
never bought a reaper product in my life. just hate when wip threads get derailed by people nitpicking some gay shit. just put an agitator in there u big girl, what are you 4 years old?

>>51244931
I have the fighter and thE mage sitting on my shelf for quiete some time now. But im not into painting for too long and that mich skin begs for thinyourpaints-bait. So ill wait until my inferior painting skills improve or i win a bet against my skillful painting friend

>>51242556
Get some cocktail sticks and scrape.

>>51234823
Any tips on magnetic ingredients a riptide's ankles? What size magnets should I use?

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Thread almost dead
But I think I like this more than an elaborate collar

>>51249832
Why are you magnetizing the ankles? What does this let you do

>>51249795

Damn son calm down

>>51249963

Probably removing it from the base for his foam or storage.

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>>51249832
>Any tips on magnetic ingredients a riptide's ankles?
>magnetic ingredients a riptide's ankles

>>51249963
This exactly >>51249983

>>51250050
Autocorrect

>>51249493
I am almost 100% positive that Reaper makes their paint in house. I've received "opps" paint from them in the past as an extra bonus to my order. Where did you hear that they outsource?

>>51250067
Why not magnetize the feet to the base?

>>51250079
The bones are made in China, even though all of their metal models are cast in Texas

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>>51246020
You won't find a tutorial for every miniature you come across anon, sometimes just practice and experiment. Like >>51245161 said, google works fine for finding well painted KDM, hell, you'll even find some in these WIP threads on occasion.

>>51234823
what kind of glue should I use for plastic models?

>>51250094
Not a bad idea. Would that be magnets on the underside of the base and inside the feet?

>>51250079

Yeah I think you are right. I probably mixed them up with Privateer Press or GW.

>>51235393
>>51235079 here. I was thinking the exact same thing while at work. I was happy enough with it last night for tabletop. Usually I would've done exactly as you suggested in the first place, I think I just got complacent since it was end of day Sunday. Gonna hit it with some dark gradient for the hand hair and inbetween tentacle areas etc to give more contrast, as well as some lighter for the belly/chest to smooth shit out as suggested :)

>Horus Heresy biker librarian
What should I use for robed legs that match? Black Knights cover Mark 7, but not Mark 4...

>>51250161
plastic glue

Basically gives you a chemical weld, i.e. bonds it better than cyanoacrylate.

You should be able to find Revell Contacta just about everywhere if you were asking about a specific brand.

>>51250161
Usw plastic glue. Super glue for resin and metal. Pros of plastic glue is that it doesnt glue your fingers to it or your model or themselves and has a stronger bond and shorter drying time than superglue, but careful because the way it glues: it melts the plastic so the two pieces become one. It also fucks up any Detail on models that geht in touch with in places where it shouldnt be.

As with ans glue. Less is better. If you Fill the glueing area full with glue its going to leak out once you press both parts together. Not good.

>>51250161
Plastic glue
>>51247955
Practise makes perfect. Just keep stripping and painting the ones you have. Thin your paints, use Duncan's tutorials etc.

Is https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039ZBLEC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484625934&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=super+clean&dpPl=1&dpID=41S0BJrOGXL&ref=plSrch the same superclean that is recommended for stripping? Is it worth buying the 1 gallon bottle instead of this?

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The strive for better models is consuming me.
My first model wasn't that bad, but I know the brush I had held me down and I need a way more detail oriented one.
Why does this hobby grab you by the balls like this? Its a weird feeling.

>>51250269
>>51250278
>>51250282

Y'all niggas are stupid. You should be using super glue, unless you plan on only using plastic for the rest of your life and never breaking down old models for parts.

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>>51245847
I have a theory: the only people who complain about airbrushes are too stupid to generate some dislosable income and buy a decent one.

>>51250269
>>51250278
>>51250282
Thank you, I received a model as a gift so I'll probably be back to ask for more advice later along the line.

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I've reached the stage where I'm happy with the metal and the weathing on my warlords legs, I haven't done anything with the plating on the pistons yet though.
I wanted a wet and dirty look
>the upper area of the waist where its scruff won't be seen as it'll be hidden by the torso, as will the crotch be hidden by its plate armour
Looking for constructive feedback, the few people I ask around me only say "looks good" or "looks bad"

>>51250301
>unless you plan on only using plastic for the rest of your life
You're allowed to own more than one kind of glue.

>and never breaking down old models for parts.
it's plastic. Not steel. you can just cut it apart if you are really that desperate.
For the most part people want their models to stay in one piece when handling them as gaming pieces.

>>51250353

Higher res versions if anyone's interested
http://i.imgur.com/VwuXZto.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/bwapt2j.jpg

>>51250362

Why even bother buying plastic glue if you have a good super glue.

>>51250362
>superglued plastic models fall apart if you touch them

Stop buying shit glue. I've had plastic parts break before the superglue does. There's no reason to even own plastic glue except for vehicle hulls, which isn't even necessary. Unless you were some kind of pleb who ONLY owned plastic. And especially for someone who doesn't even know what kind of glue to use, he's just going to bleed plastic glue everywhere and melt all his models by using too much of it, since plastic glue is always thin which is the shittiest viscosity to use in miniature glue.

>>51250405

Plastic glue lets you fine tune the positioning whereas with superglue its near instant adhesion, in which case you have to sheer it off and reglue it. It's also much easier to be precise with the plastic glue.
I use a combination of plastic glue, super glue and two part epoxy because I'm not stupid, as opposed to someone who thinks anyone not using the same glue as them is.

>>51250405
the right tool for the right job.
You can do carpentry with just one kind of saw, it's easier if you got a choice depending on what you are doing though.

>>51250434
>all this elistism about what kind of little plastic or metal men you own.
Dude, i've been doing this for about twenty years now. I've got models in all kind of materials and I've had a wide range of glues.
For one I hate the smell. You can hardly stay in the room when you use that shit, doing armies with plastic glue instead of superglue is literally gonna save you a headache. It's also cheaper.
Plastic glue also doesn't frost with humidity. It has it's advantages.

>>51250353
Add some more scratches/dirt on the feet and lower plating

>>51248646
>>51248744
>>51248806
The farther apart the lenses are, the "better" the weapon would be. I assume. But yes, at least a protective lens would be used

>>51250335
S'ok. While anon is a bit of a cunt, he is right in that you should both think about what you want the glue to do and that if you do use plastic glue, to be careful as that shit melts plastic and could damage your model if you use too much.
Hope your model goes well.

>>51249753
Looks like the lines could be sharper (maybe tape them off?), but overall it isn't bad. Picture quality is still 3potato/10, but the lightbox helps.

>>51250278
>shorter drying time than superglue
M8, supeglue is like 10 seconds MAX unless you pool it or have several drops. Are you really that impatient?

>>51250580

Plastic glue kiddies are just dumb.

>What'd you do last night?
>Not much, just read a 20 minute argument about glue on a Laotian throat-gargling site

Never change /wip/