WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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>>51252479
u wot? swear an me mum I'll give ye a right krumpin

Time to spend another hour cleaning bits before crashing for the night.

>>51252567
>he only has one power klaw

What a git

>>51252586
Look at the file name m8. Thats a proper ork freebooter

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>>51252625
ork-anon was posting orks in the 40kg thread over the weekend and was getting trolled all over the place by some sperg who insisted that an ork nob should not be modeled with two klaws because that is technically not a legal configuration.

Mk4 Librarian on a bike. If I use an Outrider squad as a base, what parts should I use to get the hooded Librarian look going? Dark Angels hooded heads, but are there Mk4 robes?

Almost done converting some mek gunz for a tourney this weekend, will post pics soon lads

>>51252695
I'd personally use the a hooded head and the robed biker legs in the ravenwing accesory pack.
pretty sure those are MK4.

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>>51252667
fuck that noise

orks do what they want

>>51252667
>>51252832
Rule of cool overides most other rules

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>>51252852
still technically WYSIWYG

>>51252789
Man... They look nice, but I don't know if I can justify $15 for the two bits. Maybe I'll see if we've got a local DA player.

Red Hunters don't get anything nice like that sprue.

>>51252929
well it does also come with a robed head and torso and sword arm, so you basically have a complete guy.
But yeah it's hella hard to justify.

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Making progress on my bases, man i fucking love tiles

>>51253049
What're they made out of?

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guys help my greenstuff is acting funny

>>51253057
The floor from the wh40k ruins

>>51253069
See, you didn't mix it well enough, now it won't cure properly.

>>51253069
Is that an eel of some sort?..

>>51253341
Its green stuff dude

>>51253376
Whoa...

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reposting, finally getting back to these after a year hiatus.
Going to be Basilean for Kings of War, need to get a hold of some large angelic wings for the 54mm models. I'm not too crazy about the shield formation but the models in it actually look good aside from the faces that you can't see. For a paladin on dragon I'm going to get a magma dragon from FW and put a flotilla on it's back with a Roman emperor model on a throne or something with his cohort wielding spears, like mumak riders.

>>51253341
a lot of greenstuff coming out of china is illegally harvested in international waters and often improper methods are used to prepare it for shipping. seen here, this one was still alive upon arrival.

>>51253666
I dont buy the chinese greenstuff anymore, i only buy eco friendly greenstuff caught in the baltic sea

>>51253666
>>51253890
I know some people suggest using the animal-free milliput instead, but it behaves oddly with water and frankly doesn't have quite the same properties.

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What's your current project /wip/?

Trying to do an ulthwè fire prism here

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Can I shoot pic related through an airbrush?

>>51252895
>tfw you cleverly hide your flying stem so well nobody can see it
>tfw some faggot says your flyer is now a ground tank because he can't "see" the flying stem and it's "what he 'sees' he gets"

>>51253069

Stop building your models underwater you idiot

>>51253998

Yes, but you may have to thin it. Some people do some people don't, even though they both use .2mm. You'll definitely need to thin it and crank up the PSI if you're .15mm and below 25 PSI.

>>51253943
I heard animal-free putty can give you autism and chemical burns

>>51254075
Cool, thanks.

Also, apply gloss and then matt varnish or is matt varnish enough protection? Speaking of gaming models, plastic and resin.

>>51254057
my friend, a nid player, once had his flyrant in 'gliding' all game, and then during my turn 5 i was going to shoot its really high profile over a building, and he said 'now its "walking" so it's profile is lower and you cant shoot it"

im not even shitting you

he had a big sulk after that and threatened to build his flyrants without wings or tails

What is sufficient ventilation? If I set up a standing fan blowing across my workspace out to an open door leading to the outside, will that stop me from turning retarded?

>>51253341
It's a blue ribbon eel. They have really cool noses.

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I used to pain Wh40k many years ago when I was but a retarded child. Recently I've wanted to get into 1/35 scale armour models mostly from the cold war era, but I'm struggling to find resources on how to paint right. There's plenty out there about how to achieve specific effects once the groundwork is laid, but I haven't found much on how to go from bare plastic to the point where you'd start doing the specific effects. There's a lot of WH40k stuff out there, but I have questions about its applicability.

I know that 1/35th scale models are /toy/ and not /tg/ but you guys know your shit a lot more than they do.

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>>51253639
They still trigger me. Romans didnt have pillum sticking out in testudo formation. Even not from a historical point of view it's retarded as you can see they are just dtucking up in the air. How are those gonna be effective at all when they are above the enemies heads???

>>51254121
>he had a big sulk after that and threatened to build his flyrants without wings or tails

I lol'd

>>51254136

If you can smell the aroma of the fumes, you have insufficient ventilation. Usually a fast enough fan is sufficient ventilation. Most retards just try to use passive ventilation and say shit like "is opening my window/door enough" when literally standing out in the street is sometimes not enough ventilation.

>>51254174

99.9% of the tutorials for building tanks will be with an airbrush. There are many videos that teach you how to fill the seams and gaps in a plastic model, file and buff it to a good finish, then spray primer and the base colors and camouflage over it on YouTube.

I've never seen one that teaches you to do it with a paintbrush but perhaps you can look for 40K tank painting tutorials.

>>51254174
I don't really understand your question. Are you asking how to apply paint to a model?

>assemble model
>clean up, fill gaps, etc
>prime model (aerosol primer, airbrush, brush-on)
>paint model the colours you want it to be
>weathering, varnish, washes

>>51254204
It's an advancing formation, I mean I don't think you can have that many pilums in between soldiers and would have to break formation to wield them effectively. It's a fantasy setting that I'm using them in so there are giant creatures too, not saying that they can't simply level their spears

>>51254247
>>51254204
I forgot to mention there's a row of spears parallel to the ground they just weren't inserted underneath the shield piece

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>>51254204

Legit question: where do they put their long weapons if not sticking out of the shields? Would this formation only be used with short weapons?

>>51254247
Romans wouldn't even fight in that formation. Also thinking about them inside that formation with at best one hand at the very is laughable.
>>51254252
Imperial era romans didn't use long weapons much. Auxiliaries they brought along would sometimes have spears and what not. Don't know if romans ditched thier pilum when in testudo or not.

>>51254328
You're telling me one hand with shield and other with pilum being supported by the weight of the shield formation wouldn't be effective? At that point all you'd have to do is lunge your spear

>>51254341
Im telling you that you are retarded.

>>51254360
S A V A G E
A
V
A
G
E

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>>51254360
It's not that hard to believe..

>>51254381
You telling me that you're gonna be able to throw that pillum above the rest of that formation when you can hardly get any momentum for that pillum? Shields themselves would even further hinder any chance of getting a good throw. Also trying to stab some big fantasy creature with it as spear is retarded cause you aren't gonna get much of a thrust for stabbing either. This isn't rocket science anon.

>>51254408
If it's a spear I'm saying it can't be held underhand while keeping formation, they wouldn't be able to turn or reform

Is it possible to mix brighter metllics by hand? Need some edge highlights for armor and don't want to spend another 7€ for something you need so little paint for.

>>51254685

Make a white glaze by thinning down white with a lot of thinner. Thinner, not water. Then mix the glaze into the silver. Don't just mix white straight into the silver or you kill the shine.

Vallejo and other companies sell products specifically for this purpose for blending metallics. They're like these various colored inks, such as white or ash or blue.

But if you were going to buy an expensive bottle of that shit you might as well have just bought a pot of brighter silver from Vallejo or whomever to begin with.

>>51254710
Yeah, might as well at that point. Oh well, guess I'll have some new paints to mess around with.

>>51254075
Why would you spray varnish using such a tiny needle.

>>51254112
Matte alone rarely is good protection. Do gloss and matte.

Material is not really all too important. Resin is usually more frail but more detailed and used for more special models.

>>51254750

Because some morons go "finer needles are better! haha i'll just buy one .15!"

>but the fucking airbrush GIVES you a larger gauge needle!

Are you really going to sit there and tell me that an airbrush idiot didn't bend that needle long ago?

Also, some people do spray Vallejo through .15. Don't know why they just do.

My airbrush is spraying out paint even when i'm not pulling back the trigger.
The nozzle seems clean. anyone can suggest what might be going on?

>>51255006
needle not fully put into the nozzle or slightly bent?

>>51255045
Fuck, yea the needle was like a nanometer out of place pushed it up and now it's fine.

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Anyone got an idea on what I should do?

One of my skimmershad its stand broken basically flush with the modell. I can't get the remainder of the stand out of the inside and trying to glue the broken stand back together was a bandage solution, as the parts' joining was tenuous at best, and the stand broke again very soon after.

God damn Celestine is a fun model to paint. No idea why I enjoy it so much but she just feels good to paint.

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Yesterday, for the first time in seven years, I cut myself. Not noteworthy in and of itself, but I somehow managed to do it with sprue cutters of all things. I decided that I should stay away from stuff for a while, before I manage to stab myself with a brush, or impale myself on a file.

>>51255169
Be safe anon.

>>51255169
>cut out Onager Dunecrawler I got for Christmas
>smashed my knife against my thumb so often that I now have enough micro-cuts for my phone to be unable to read my fingerprint

I mean, only one of those actually bled but it's still pretty fucked up and annoying.

>>51255169
i tabbed back in and forgot what board i was on and thought you were self-harming

one time i jabbed myself a tiny bit with my hobby knife, and it didnt really hurt but i was so suprised i dropped my knife and it fell and pieced my toe through my ugg boot

>>51254408
>>51254360
>>51254204

shut the fuck up you fucking faggot

>>51255203
Sorry your shit makes no fucking sense.

>>51255195
>forgot what board I was one

Anon, what boards do you visit where self-harming is aregular topic?

Captcha: way out

>>51255136
Drill gently and shallowly (ideally with a hand drill) into the stem that remains in the model, then either use some appropriate implement to grip against the interior surfaces created by this pit and remove the stand, or if you must then firmly glue some small rod in there and after leaving it to dry use that to remove the stand.

Then sand the remaining stem down to flat, and proceed as normal.

>>51255169
I PAINT NO VENTILATION

NO VENTILATION BAD

PAINT FUN

HURR

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>>51255195
>through my ugg boot
>ugg boot
>uggs

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>>51255230
Anon, are you alright? Are you having a stroke?

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>>51255223
Probably since /lgbt/ since they subconsciously realise how much they're fucking up their bodies.

>>51255291
Mfw i see people wearing ugg boots in public mfw i'm friends with a guy that does that

>>51255291
i got them discount from work and it was winter :(
the pair i had was aussie wool and manufacture and usually retail for about two hundred and i got them for twenty
>>51255308
/v/. what the fuck even goes on in that place any more.

>>51255210
not him, you're just a shit cunt fuck off. kill yourself even faggot.

>>51255318
>>51255308
>with a guy that does that
Aren't uggs women's shoes...?

>>51255329
Boohoo. Theres more wrong with them such as dudes on the sides must have 3 arms so they can hold 2 shields and a pillum.

>>51255342
I'm not going to knock wearing uggs in my own home. I wear whatever the fuck I want there, if my home is drafty and normal slippers don't cut it then a calf height slipper may be what I'd need. I imagine they're comfortable as hell

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>>51255342
theyre pretty unisex in australia. you're considered pretty bogan if you wear them out of the house, though. theyre like house slippers.
the whole 'uggs for fashion' thing is mostly overseas, by the american UGG company promoting them as such. ugg isnt copyrighted in australia, and it's a generic term for any sheepskin boot. fuck why did i bring up uggs i sold them for three years i hate this fucking pitch about the history of uggs

>>51255362
>PTSD about selling uggs
My condolences.

>>51255362
>bogan
Oh man

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>>51255374
>>51255362
Good lord they're like Missouri rape river hillbillies

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>>51255362
But if it's Australia, wouldn't your feet be more liable to overheat wearing them?

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>>51255393
Fuck off.

Bogans may not be refined, but they are the only real Australians who live in cities.

You latte-sipping white-collar fucksticks can fuck off back to America where you and your disassociated middle-brow upper-middle-class "intelligentsia" and its privilege politics belongs.

Go ahead mods, ban me for offtopic. Fucking do it.

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>>51255371
i worked in souvenir shops so every day was
>tourist from overseas come in
>"are these authentic uggs?"
apparently UGG brand shops tell their customers that other brands are 'fakes' instead of explaining how the copyright works in australia
>give them the above spiel about copyright, yadda yadda
>they listen politely
>then walk out of the store telling their friends that that was 'a roundabout way of saying theyre not authentic uggs'

jesus christ i know i'm a salesman but you should be able to tell i'm being honest christ i just want to think about models and painting models

>>51255425
>>51255430
Why all the hate

>>51255430
>tfw also a salesperson
I know that feel.

>try and give someone honest and sensible advice based on your experience with over 10 different television brands and manufacturers on why spending more to buy something that isn't fucking Soniq is a good idea
>get told to my face that I'm just trying to scam them blah blah blah A Current Affair and so on
>they buy the Soniq
>call me up a few weeks later because it's shit itself

Every time this happens I feel like laughing in their face because I know that they're too dumb to make the connection between them not following my advice and their broken fucking television unless someone smarter than them points it out.

I always send the TV away for repair (which takes 6-8 weeks if it's Soniq) rather than replace it, no matter how cheap of a TV it is. I've sent TVs that cost under $150 away for repair and had them gone for three fucking months and I don't even bad. Far from it, I feel good. As salespeople we're told to make friends with our customers so they buy shit from us, but it works both ways. If our customers make friends with us we're usually more motivated to help out.

>>51255421
It gets cool sometimes, i've heard tasmania's climate could be compared to england.
>>51255425
Na, bogans are more like the welfare leeches living in housing commission. I have to fucking walk past that kind of shit every day and they're always screaming at eachother
Tradies are alright.

On topic though, I'm shaking my vallejo paints for a solid 3 minutes and they're still seperated, is this normal?

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>>51255448
sorry, just venting the frustrations of working retail i guess.
if there are any texans on here you guys are the politest fuckers on earth. best customers.
to try to get back on topic, what would be the best way to make an entrenchment like this? some kind of foam as a base and then texture paint and bitz?

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>>51255448
Because the smug classist bullshit that is increasingly permeating Australian society as we turn into a mini-America must be opposed at every turn.

Australia is the working man's country. Long live the bogans.

>>51255467
It can refer to that, but not exclusively. I'd call welfare leeches bludgers before I called them bogans, though they are both.

>>51255467
You could try working in a paper clip and stirring the bottle, it worked wonders for me on my army painter droppers

>>51255136
Get some slim, tall magnets, drill a hole into the stem and put the magnet in there so that it forms the part that pokes out. Then put another one deep into the hole you stick the stem into.

Though I just put regular bases on my jet bikes and such units, with terrain on them, and used thin metal rods to support the bikes. Two was often the best, as it was supportive and allowed all sorts of poses.

>tfw finding out that old Chainmail isn't current Leadbelcher
Whoops.

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>>51255476
>what would be the best way to make an entrenchment like this?
When there is little time for preparation, build a hasty fighting position. It should be behind whatever cover is available. It should give frontal cover from enemy direct fire but allow firing to the front and the oblique. The term hasty does not mean that there is no digging. If there is a natural hole or ditch available, use it. If not, dig a prone shelter that will give some protection. The hole should be about one-half meter (18 to 20 in) deep. Use the dirt from the hole to build cover around the edge of the position.

In the defense, you and another soldier will build a two-man fighting position. Improve your position as time permits. Keep the hole small. The smaller the hole, the less likely it is that rounds, grenades, or airburst fragments will get into it. It should be large enough for you and your buddy in full combat gear. It should extend beyond the edges of the frontal cover enough to let you and your buddy observe and fire to the front. The hole is usually dug straight, but it may be curved around the frontal cover. Curving the hole around the frontal cover may be necessary in close terrain to allow better observation and fire to the front and to the next flank position. To curve the hole, simply extend one or both ends of it around the frontal cover. A curved hole lets one of you watch for the enemy to the front while the other sleeps or eats. Also, you can observe and fire to the front when not being fired at, and move back behind the frontal cover when under heavy fire. On a steep slope, a straight hole may not let you stay behind frontal cover and fire at attackers. You may have to stand up and expose yourself to the attackers' fire. To avoid such exposure, dig firing ports in each end of the hole. The ground between the firing ports will then be additional frontal cover. Dig the hole armpit deep. This lowers your profile and still lets you fire.

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>all the script that needs to be painted on an exorcist

I went to my LGS Monday night gaming and some friend of a regular berated me for using an airbrush in painting my models.

Now don't get me wrong I airbrush all the base colours to get em smooth, but then go in with brush and paint the edge highlights, shading, weathering, gems etc

But this lad said it was trainer wheels and a bad habit and was pretty rude about it. He picked up one of my Russ' and gave it the stink eye

>this Paint is too smooth
Thanks! I use an airbrush to get the base down
>that wasnt a compliment, i meant it was too smooth to be brush airbrushing is a bad habit, like brush licking
Well i brush lick too so i guess we're not going to be best friends
>i don't care, it just like painting with training wheels
Ok then!
>what happens if you don't have your airbrush? you're screwed.
Er.. Ok
>just saying
Ok!

Weird as fuck

>>51255592
>brush licking
What? I've never heard of this and Google is only showing me cat brushes

>>51255592
>being elitistic about being "brush only master race"
Some people should be gassed.

>>51255605
Probably licking your brush / putting it in your mouth to get a good tip.

>>51255592
at the end of the day, painting is art and you can do it however you damn well please. it sounds like that guy is just shitty that his way isnt 'the' way.
>>51255605
putting your brush bristles in your mouth to draw them to a tip, probably the quickest way to get a brush to a point, just make sure theres no paint on it.

>>51255622
>just make sure theres no paint on it.

? that's where the fun starts cunt

>>51255592
Fuck that guy, wish I had an airbrush for my base work.

>>51255592

This fucking hobby man. In what other walks of life would a sperg approach someone like that and have a go at them for doing something as benign as airbrushing? Or even have the gall to handle someones property like that? Ffffffff

I know we joke about the assburgers a lot but... This may be a legit case.

>>51255592
Next time you see him tell him that I, Anonymous from 4chan, bought 3 airbrushes, one for priming/base coats, one specifically for metallics and one for more detailed work and then tell me what he says.

>>51255664
Well, there's also often people like that in card games that bitch and judge you for using some non-standard card in your deck or for not running certain cards, even if it is because you can't afford them.

>tfw get judged because not having a full playset of every fetchland in MTG

>>51255683
i'll never forget one time i walked into a MtG friday night magic tournament once, paid my entry, and smashed my way to win the tournament with a $40 deck against some guys netdecked $500 dollar deck through sheer lack of knowing the meta
his anger could have powered the empire's war efforts for at least a month.
for those curious, it was at the height of white/blue control in RTR, and i brought in a deck which had that 6/6 flying trample guildleader guy in red/black. i got that out on turn four, swung for ten thanks to auger spree, then one mana fling for another ten

>>51255711
>one mana fling for another ten
Top kek.
Cheap fling wins like that are comedy gold aginst meta netdeckers.

What color should I use for my AdMec vehicles' "inner metal parts" when my armor is blue with silver trim and my cloth is white?
The ones on legs and stuff that are cream color in the default Mars color scheme are the parts I mean.

>>51255764
Brass might work.

>Have a rare day off with the house all to myself
>Go to my wargame cache to dig around for something interesting to paint/ model
>"Hey it would be fun to do an inventory of all this crap lying around"
>I now have anxiety because I realize my backlog is just on the brink of going over 300 different models

>Fun day all in all

>>51255764
silver with 3 coats of nuln oil.

>>51255764
>>51255780
It might, but my instinct would be for gunmetal grey to accentuate the silver and white. If you have any pics in progress that would help us visualise it a lot, but it's cool if you're still in the concept stages.

>>51255819
I'm >>51255824 and this is pretty much what I'm suggesting, yes. Shade the fuck out of that shit.

>>51255824
Only thing I have done so far is my first Dominus and my Skitarii bases. Currently still in the middle of painting the Triumvirate, still having to finish elestine and do all of Cawl. Wanted to buy some paints tomorrow for that and thought I might as well decide on what to use for those parts now.

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>>51255592
>>51255664
Had the opposite happen to me a week ago.
I was playing with my work in progress Thousand Sons with only Magnus fully painted and the rest mostly basecoated and some loaned models at our club and one of the regulars had a buddy of his along. Fat, ugly, with 2cm thick glasses and weirdly long, but clearly trimmed and cared for fingernails. Guy comes over and starts telling me that he thinks I should have airbrushed Magnus because it looks much better and you get smoother coats.
Shrugged it away, but he just wouldn't fucking shut up about it.
He just kept talking about his airbrush.
Jesus fucking Christ.

never painted flesh before; any tips?

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>>51255824
Shitty image and shitty white paintjob but I was trying it out for the first time after all. Should give an idea what the paints look like.

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>>51255904
cadian fleshtone and reikland fleshshade are your friends

you want smoother transition than you would do on metals and armour

use a bit of a blue or red wash to give flesh a bit of character

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>>51255995
also flesh is the most fun to paint

>>51255870

Why do people think it's appropriate to say this?

If i like your paint job i'll say so, if i don't i'll keep quiet, if you ask for feedback i'll give it.

Cunts!

>>51255349
i dont care, nobody does just shut the fuck up you loser cunt

>>51252832
never understood why the 'blades' of power claws were always facing outwards. Seems liek a retarded oversight by GW, for a claw to be effective it needs to be sharpe on the inner edges.

>>51256118
that's more of a thing on ork klawz.
All my imperial power claws are sharp on the inner edge

>>51256118
Probably can be attributed to Orks wanting to crush things with thir claws, not cut things.

Much more fun squeezing your enemy's innardsout their throat than just cutting them in two.

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>>51255308
Is your friend Tom Brady? If not, he should be shunned.

So, what do you recomend for advanced thinning (not plain water which kills paint properties) specially for glazing and the like? I guess the obvious answer is glaze medium? Or even airbrush thinner? Is it even the same thing?

>come to /wip/ for inspiration
>get bogans
;~;

>>51256451
you know the age old saying, 'thin consistently with milk'

>>51256451
Honestly a matte acrylic medium helps when you're doing regular thinning. Like GW's lahmian, which works out expensive if you manage to get through an entire pot but lets you buy in smaller amounts than many craft suppliers will, which is nice for trying out working with more than just water.

Blending medium is handy, I'm using Liquitex's Slow-Dri. With media there is an entire rabbithole you can go down of different effects, and with each one you'll need to work out how much water you'll want to add alongside your Special Sauce of choice.

Airbrush thinner is not the same thing. Again, people use multiple things in with their air paints: often a flow improver / drying retarder to stop paint drying on the needle.

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Goreschosen wip, does each character need 400 fucking thingsmajigs hanging from it?

>>51256683
Who's the fat bloke near the guy holding the unbelievably impractical massive Khorne symbol?

Hey /wip/
I've been doing a bunch of casting with my hirst moulds and about have enough to start doing some building. What are some cool little terrain ideas I should include for my Mordheim board outside of the huge buildings. I've got a good few centrepieces, bunch of little buildings and ruins. I'm chasing ideas on scattered terrain. So far I have
>well
>gallows
>stockades
>overturned cart
Anything else? Bonus points for being able to use the moulds

>>51256695
Bloodstoker from the starter set

>>51256814
I assume the belly and mantits are greenstuff?
It's really nice, looks like a slaver.

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>>51256839

Not mine, but
Maybe he just lost the bellyplate and greenstuffed it .

>>51256963
nvm, the shoulderplate is still there.

>>51256683
The green is an interesting choice for the accent colour, but you're rocking it so I'll leave it at that.

Your red armour is overhighlighted into orange, which does give you nice contrast for tabletop distances but doesn't look as nice up close, partly because of a lack of smoothness in your transitions.

While you're painting an army, these are heroes that you're obviously spending longer on.
A glaze of a mid-tone red over your armour plates will bring the hue back towards actual red and help with those transitions.

Your skin tones took fine, don't be afraid to play with blues and reds in the shadows to add interest, and it will keep them fresh for you as you paint more of them.

An easy tip on the bloodstoker would be to pick out his pants stitching in an off-white.

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Would any of you have a problem with these being heldrakes? Trying to go for a more recent post heresy where everything wasn't demonized and goofy looking yet

just went to get admech grey spray and they had 'stormvemrin fur scenery grey', dunno if that is acceptable. Also on the side slaanesh grey is a dry paint but it was a layer at the store.

>>51257254
But Heldrakes are daemon engines, there was never a point where they weren't goofy looking evil chickens. I mean, I wouldn't personally not play with you due to it but if you don't like daemon engines, use a different flyer instead.

>>51257356
>use a different flyer instead

That's literally what he's doing?

>>51257356
So if I want MKV era aesthetic I'm still forced to get a derpy turkey? Is it legal if I gut the thing and get rid of all the stupid embossed lightning on the wings to make it look as much like a heresy era flyer as possible? Could I even use plasticard while being legal to field?

>>51257551
No, I mean don't use a Heldrake at all. Use one of the many other flyers available to spessh mehrines.

>>51257599
Are you playing 40K or 30K? If 30K, Heldrakes don't exist. If 40K then do whatever you like mate, I was just saying it's strange to want to play daemon engines if you don't like daemon engines.

>>51257655
I'm trying to do a Death Guard army that has bikes and decided on basing them off of the conflict on the Einstein between the Death Guard and White Scars. I want to make the bikers MKIV outriders with MKII and MKIII marines on them painted up as Scars, but entirely reanimated by Nurgle being that they weren't accustomed to the Destroyer Plague so are husks, with all of the marines in my army being their pre heresy counterparts but with obvious changes to make them look "changed" like joints in their armor with blood and pus leaking from it's orifices.
If I were to have a heldrake in their it'd look really odd, especially with the deimos rhinos

Speaking of Death Guard, I've got a question about wear and tear.


I'm not talking about using weathering pigments or the salt method or whatever, but more along the lines of how to get that worn in tone that some people get - mine look really flat in bone colour

I'm assuming they're using washes to get it, but I'm terrified of just having loads of slimy Agrax Earthshade all over the model, and just making it look shite

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Started painting my Rogue Psyker, not too sure about what colours I'm gonna do the robe, thinking about a drab greenish colour. Any thoughts?

>>51257833
Nevermind, reread the fluff and it states that as soon as they returned from the warp they were corrupted, their vehicles and armor as well. So they wouldn't look like their old selves. Maybe I should just make plague marines out of pre heresy marines, all gross like they normally are?

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Work continues on the Bandersnatch, I think it'll look a little boring if the whole thing is just cream coloured, any suggestions for how to make it a bit more "interesting"?

Would the battlemire texture paint be a good option for a base? I haven't ever based anything and want a quick base to have for my IG.
I have a gw down the street which I've never been to, so I'll check there.

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Finished my Champion of Slaanesh.

>>51252479
Okay, so, all of these links are really confusing.

If I'm literally 100% new and have never painted anything before, how/where should I begin? I know absolutely nothing about it, at all. How do I become the very best, like no one ever was? Or, at the least, vaguely competent?

>>51258335
The sculpt already implies mottling with the rough texture, so play with that variation on the large surfaces. Mottle into browns, maybe reds or neutral greys to break up the large areas of colour.

>>51258462
What are you painting, Ash? If it's GW then just look up the tutorial for it or the nearest model to it on Warhammer TV and paint along.

>>51258394
If you're planning on basing an entire army, using GW texture paints will be incredibly expensive. There are literally thousands of basing tutorials out there on the internet, many very easy to accomplish and easy on the wallet.

>>51258335
look at some reference pictures of actual spiders.
some have patterns on their backs.

the gw spiders have skull patterns on their backs. Don't have to be that obvious, but you could play with it.

>>51258462
To begin, go to the youtube channel Tabletop Minions and watch his introduction series. He caters specifically towards new people. Then, watch some tutorials on WarhammerTV. You can also google 'how to assemble miniatures', 'how to paint miniatures', that sort of thing.

Then you buy some models, buy some tools, buy some glue, buy some brushes, buy some paints and then you can get started by ruining some models.

>>51258462
start with the basics.
Read the how to paint miniatures book by GW from around 2004 or I think.
Should be in the OP.

Covers all the basics and explains most painting techniques that you are gonna use for painting models on foot.

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>>51258496
Well, I want to get into 40K mini painting, but I don't want to ruin the few minis I actually have. I was thinking of buying a few cheaper ones, just to practice on, but I'm unsure if that's a good idea. This is what I have currently, if it helps. One was painted by a previous owner, since I got them off of eBay a few years back. I never got into the painting, but now it seems like it could be fun, by some definitions of the word 'fun'.

>>51258462
Warhammer tv tutorials, then you can jump to more youtube tutorials like doctor faust, lester bursley or next level painting(next level memeing).
And obviously paint a lot of models and post them on /wip/ for feedback.
Also you want to get a nice set of tools, paints and brushes.
Good luck.

>>51258462
Just beware this hobby can be a HUGE money sink. There are plenty of other brands that isn't GW that does the same
Work, if not better.
If you're poor this hobby might be a little
Hard to get into.

>>51258557
Start on the cultists, then follow the rest of the videos for what you've got there. https://youtu.be/n6BxIDnaFZA

>>51258573
>If you're poor this hobby might be a little
>Hard to get into.
Nah.
It's cheaper than most hobbies. It just gets expensive if you lose focus and start hoarding miniatures.
If you manage to focus on one army of one faction from one game it can be pretty affordable.
Playing skirmishers is even cheaper.

I mean GW charges as much for a single miniature these days as other companies charge for an entire starter pack.

>>51258528
Thanks for pointing that dude out, I'll look into him. Is the into series the one with his old vids, or is it not in a playlist?

>>51258530
I'll look into this as well, since I'm autistic as fuck about gaining information.

>>51258569
Which WHTV ones would you recommend? They have an absolute fuckload.

>>51258573
>>51258649
I'm not gonna be dropping shitloads of money into it, but I'm not /super/ poor. How much would you guys say it takes to start up?

>>51258610
Thanks, man. Direct links are an autists best friend. I can never decide which videos to pick on my own and I always end up with forty tabs open and only watch like a third of them.

>>51258671
>How much would you guys say it takes to start up?
If you don't have any paints or brushes at all you are probably looking at about 50 bucks worth of startup costs for some clippers, files, brushes, a knife and some paint.
The GW tutorials always use a fuckload of paints because they are aimed at total beginners and it's convenient to just have them instead of mixing them, but for a ragtag band of misfits like cultists a few variations in color are a good thing imo, so consistency shouldn't be something you have to worry about too much when you start with painting them first.

>>51258807
That makes sense. I can always strip the paint off ant try again if I'm utter shit, right?

Vaguely related, but not painting; What kinds of Strategies is Chaos/Cultists good at pulling? Mainly with what I currently have. I got them a long time ago, and somewhat impulsively, so I'm not sure what they're actually good at.

>>51258900
>40k
>strategies

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Any suggestions on making faces better?

>>51258900
>>51258970
Anon is right, 40k is not strategic

It does have tactics. Filthy phone poster so I can't go into much to answer questions

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>>51259045
Highlights, using pic as a guide for where to have more highlighting.

>>51256661
Correct me if I'm wrong, but an acrylic paint consists of 2 components:

>pigment
>medium

If you add plain water to the paint, you are killing the medium effect and the paint stops behaving like a paint, for example the pigments don't stick and thus it's harder to glaze, because it behaves more like a wash (except the wash has a bit of flow improver mixed in, for example dish soap).

If you add more medium to thin your paints, you are basically getting the same paint in a smaller pigments/cm^3 proportion, so it keeps the paint properties (ie pigments stick easier) while at the same time making the layer more traslucent.

Is this right?

>>51258970
>>51259107
I suppose you're right, there. I'd confused the two concepts. What /tactics/ would suit them?

Recaster friends, how do you handle working on resin to reduce dust risk? I've got a couple vehicles on order from Miranda Irene, and I know already that they'll need cleanup; would I be good enough with wearing a mask, keeping the parts submerged in water while I work, and wearing gloves (for the latter, would latex gloves work?)? I try to avoid working with resin whenever possible, but Heresy era vehicles don't really come any other way.

>>51259195
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylic_paint

There is water in the medium, so all you are doing is diluting the medium. I add water to paint all the time, and up to a point it still behaves like paint. Then at a certain point it goes too far and the paint separates, and that's when medium comes into my thinning.

I can't think of any painter I know of who never adds water, whether it be distilled, tap or holy to their paint, and that includes watching slayer sword winners paint.

If you just add medium, you will get a more translucent paint that still runs like the medium does- if you use a somewhat thin medium it will flow better than the paint on its own, but seriously dude, everyone uses water.

>>51259045
How to Paint Faces 1 and 2 are linked in the OP.

>>51259567
I forgot about the water component uh. So strictly speaking, in order to keep the paint properties intact you should add water AND medium.
In the end all it matters is the technique you need the paint for, if you are just basecoating plain water will do, if you need to apply a precise glaze it is good idea to add a bit of medium too.

>>51258335
Holy fuck, dude, behind you!

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It's been a while since we all posted our work stations, and as I just moved to a new one I'll start by posting mine. Sorry for the pic, phone camera is shite.

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Black Reach dread, what you think?

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Hey /WIP/, does anyone here have experience doing bodypaint on their minis? Want to work on something like from Quest for Fire for when some KD:M stuff comes in.

>>51259692
average night in australia.jpg

>>51259654
Because of technique being individual and it literally being more art than science there's no accepted recipe for everything.

Check out Tabletop Minions 'Painting With The Pro' on YouTube, specifically the flesh episode, where I think Sam Lenz explains the thinning mix he keeps on his palette.

Trying to get into painting, I was recommended Krylon Primer, but there's so many friggin brands for Krylon Primer i'm not sure which to use. Should I use Covermaxx? should I use their 120oz primer? people say it's 4 dollars, but I don't know which one that is.

Anyone able to enligthen me on this?

>>51259738
looks comfy, though maybe a bit cramped

>>51259738
Not enough multi directional lighting I imagine..

>>51259984
Just your basic flat/matte primer should do the trick. I use rustoleum painter's touch 2x primer myself, can get it at walmart

>>51260017
Thanks, if I want more space I just put the booth on the floor and spin the cutting mat sideways.

>>51260034
Not pictured are several other lamps I clamp to the side of the table for painting or taking pictures of minis.

>>51260056
Seconding painter's touch 2x. Just make sure you get the matte colours. At my local walmart and home improvement stores they tend to have two or three times as many satin or gloss versions so if you're not paying attention it's easy to snag the wrong one.

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Finally all but finished with Celestine. Just need to do some edge highlighting tomorrow and at some point figure out a way to make her fly. Really don't trust those 2 seals as her only support.

>>51259449
Just wear a dust mask. Or a respirator https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Respirator .

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>>51260175
Also not too hype about painting her Geminae. She was a lot of fun except for that face, my god was that thing a pain but the other two seem pretty boring in comparison and just like the same with less going on in smaller.

>>51259738
Lookscool, what kind of Booth is that?

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>>51260175
>Really don't trust those 2 seals as her only support.

>>51259984

krylon fusion

the only good thing rustoleum ever made was their barbecue black

>>51260201
My regular work space is my bedroom as well. I live in a little under 100 square feet. Ny other option is working outside. Both options need some form of dust control.

>>51259738
where did you get those prints?

>>51255592
The guys who hang out at the stores around the clock are easily the worst part of the fanbase.

>At local GW, playing 1000 points against two kids who have brought in what it clearly their first army.
>guy with a literal neckbeards comes over and starts telling us how we should play and how our armycombs are suboptimal
>I all but have to tell him to fuck off before he takes the hint and goes back to the painting table
>after the comes over as I'm packing up my army
>he notices the pony miniature I made as a C'tan proxy for a game with a friend (never used it at the store)
>the fat, smelly neckbeard wearing an anime shirt then launches into a speech on how I shouldn't bring stuff like this into the store since it would weird out newcomers
>after I leave the store he follows me and explains that he actually watches the show but "had to save face" in front of the other regulars

>>51260360
>pony miniature
I also once indulged in such Slaaneshi things but anon, please tell me that miniature was merely used as a joke and backfired now.

>>51260263
Just get rid oft the dust when youre finished By vacuuming and wet wiping and youre set. Respirator is just for during filing and stuff where the dust gets blown up.

Hey /tg/ need some modelling advice. I'm working on some Iron Warriors and got 2 boxes of Admech Battle servitors to make into obliterators. I plan on building the tracks and either using some terminator torsos and gs'ing weapons and arms on or using the stock torso and chaos it up a bit. Thoughts or suggestions? (sorry no camera or pics atm)

>>51259910
In my limited experience, I found that getting a small blob of unthinned paint on your brush, and then getting rid of some with some light strokes on the side of your hand or something until it's at the thickness you want gives you a naturally painted look (as if the mini had a little brush and painted itself, if that makes sense)

I need some advice.

I've just moved into a new house (my first) and have a dedicated hobby room. I want to have a desk where I can build/paint and would like to know if anyone has any experience with anything similar. I am especially concerned about getting adequate lighting for painting and would like to know what people do to ensure everything is lit correctly

>>51260256
What Color. Why Fusion? It's not a primer, it's paint, I thought.

>>51260233
Just a fairly cheap airbrush booth, it's collapsible and comes with an extractor fan hose, so it does what I need it to do.

>>51260267
There's a website called Warhammer Art that sells a whole bunch of limited edition prints of tons of GW artwork. A little pricey but they're great quality.

>>51260467
>please tell me that miniature was merely used as a joke and backfired now.
Well, obviously it was meant as a jokethough bookhorse has gotten pretty close to a C'tan's powerlevel by now.
I still occasionally use it though.

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I posted this in the morning and promptly fell asleep before I could check the replies, but I'm pretty sure it 404'd soon after.

>>51260918

And of course I accidentally posted it before typing out the content

>seeking feedback
>the top part of the waist is scruffy but that isnt seen when the torso is attached
>meant to look like its rainy, its wet and dirty
>the piston armour is not done yet, i'm working on that now

>>51260918
are you going to do any layers/highlights on the metal?

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>>51260918
Then let me reiterate: Do something about all those pistons. Bright silver with a ring of agrax on one end works great.

>>51260918
>>51260931
Looks good, though almost still too clean for dirty and rainy weather. Would especially consider mud and splatters on the feet due to the rainy weather and soaked terrain that would result in.

>>51260748
Amazon link or smth? I need one, collapsible would be great

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>>51260748
>There's a website called Warhammer Art that sells a whole bunch of limited edition prints of tons of GW artwork. A little pricey but they're great quality.

I never knew this existed.
Damn.

Thank you, anon.

>>51260698
Get an led light arc, really cool if you have the space

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>>51259910
I've done some on my tankbustas, like >>51260630 said, just overbrush the paint onto the models face or whatever you want to paint

>>51260980
This link is the one I bought, I think it may be a generic one that gets rebranded and resold.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BHXIT8E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>>51260993
No worries mate, I'm just worried I'll end up living in some sort of Warhammer art exhibit. Whole house full of paintings of minis and unpainted minis.

>>51260959

I already did all the layers and highlights then slathered it in weathering, I don't then want them to come back through the dirt

>>51260975
I had them bright silver and decided I didn't like it, so I've gone for a "freshly covered in oil" look, it doesn't convey it in the picture but they're very shiny because i used vallejo oil stains effects, I like it that way - is it completely unrealistic?

>>51260975
I've been debating adding mud, I just wasnt sure if it was too much. I'm going for a more "filthy urban" theme than "stomping around in a field" so I'm not quite sure where to go from here

>>51261025
Thanks brother, much appreciated

>>51261043
Maybe add some black dirt splatter to the feet then? A ruined cityskape is bound to have A LOT of dust and debris lying around as well as oil which would color the water pretty black and dirty in puddles.

>>51261090

I just ordered some of vallejos industrial thick and splash mud to have a play around with, we'll see how that goes

>>51260524
Any containment ideas while drilling?

>>51261580
Vacuum?

What do I need to search for to find a tutorial on how to do custom "flier sticks", preferably trnaslucent ones?

Hell, where do I even find one of those things? Gotta be a thin one too since it's not for a big vehicle but only a normal figure.

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Tfw my BA germans turned out really fucking bad. I just want to start all over again but I also want to play with them.

>>51261639
Acrylic rod works. Hell, maybe even plexiglass sheet if you're okay with it not being round.

>>51261690
just repaint them

>>51261771
Oh true, didn't even think of taking plexiglass. Might even be a better option and easier to attach to the mini.

Just gotta figure out a way to attach it to the base.

>>51261043
i bet these large-scale minis are hard to photograph so we may not be getting a sense of the "real look" but i think all the oil washes just look sort of lazy - and not even particularly realistic, as a filthy and heavily used machine would have more notable variety in the density of the dirt/etc - right now, the surface does look muddy, but in an unremarkable way

>>51261624
At risk of more noise complaints than a Kakophoni warband, given the speed I work at, could work.

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>>51259738

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BEHOLD HIS MARVELOUS WORK!

>>51262476
>fixing onto base before basing
I will never not be bothered by the thought of this.

>>51262506
I mean, I do this for my IW but because I want them to look like dudes walking through wet mud, and I can't have that effect if I gently glue them on top of it.

Basically as soon as your dude is meant to be butrowing his feet into the ground, I think it's a legitimate reason to glue before basing.

>>51262595
Even then, I'd probably put on whatever paste or what have you in order to create that mud and then stick the model's feet into it to make it look like they actually stepped in it, then wait for it to harden and paint the base.

>>51262643
Actually...I might try that next time. It'll be easier that to carefully navigate between the legs and scenery to not out mud on it.

>>51262506
>>51262643
If you are doing something like sigmarines with a low models count fair enough.
For orks it's easier to just plopp them down, rely on the plastic glue bond instead of pinning all of your 120 models and then just throw some sand/whatever on and prime that with the rest of the model.

>>51262948
I honestly don't even bother to pin normal-sized and light models like regular troops and infantry. My superglue has yet to fail me even on painted surfaces.

>>51263064
may i ask how much you handle models? do you play regularly?

>>51263141
What do you consider regularly?
Once every 2 months or so with half my models.

>>51263141
>Not using plastic glue for the surest part s that won't need moving like feet to base and torso to legs

Although I find myself in a tricky situation, I positionned a torso just a wee bit too forwarf and now I don't dare break it to reposition it. Fortunately the head came off easily, I can raise this one and have a better pose.

>>51263253
dunno, some people have weekly gaming days.
Just wondering.
Sitting on 120+ orks and contemplating casting some nicer designs, personally.

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how do i give my ironstrider's leg a dusty look without an air brush?

>>51263763
weathering powders?

>>51263763
Drybrush brown. Light brown.

>>51263763
Very lightly drybrush with light brown, then drybrush even lighter with Bleached Bone or whatever it's called nowadays.

How.. might one emulate moss or algae?

Forgot to pick up some more of a base paint when I was picking some stuff up today. Will Leadbelcher suffice as an undercoat or am I about to encounter a massive paint failure?

>>51264239
stay in one place and attempt to photosynthesize I guess.

>>51264269
i hate you

>>51264241

Base paint or primer

>>51264241
Leadbelcher IS a base paint. It's not primer though, so don't put it on bare plastic.

>>51263922
>>51264176
>>51264232
thanks guys!

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>>51255308
Hey fuck you man ugg boots are comfy as fuck. Its everybody else whos got the problem

>>51264309
what would happen without applying a primer?

>>51264239
Search 'massive voodoo moss tutorial' (the actual title is 'how to create dosh'). Can't link directly because 4chan thinks it's spam.

>>51264379
Paint would flake off very quickly and very easily, like dropping a model, or just scraping a finger against it to remove a hair or something.

Just prime your models. Don't be silly. Use the Vallejo brush primer with two thin coats if you can't/won't spray but prime them.

>>51256695
I lost the belly plate so green stuffed it

>>51264409
thankyou, you gorgeous man!

>>51257046
I'll consider bringing The hue back to a darker red, bud I've always preferred the Blood gorgons brighter red/orange for Khorne.

I'll blend the paint on the fatboy first and see how it goes

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I fucked up WIP

Also what paint thinner do you guys use?

>>51264587
What the fuck mate. Do you not clean your airbrush between colours and at the very least after every session?

I use Vallejo's thinner, with some water. Although it's tap water, whoch isn't the brst but I'm too lazy to get empty dropper bottles and make a proper bottle of water and thinner properly mixed.

Trying to paint an Ogroid, the tattoos look like total shit.

Every time i try to fix them i end up fucking it up just as bad in some other way. I guess i dont have the brush control for this.

>>51264587
That's acrylic paint I hope?
Then pure vallejo airbrush cleaner will get it out.
Just let it soak for a minute or two then take some cotton swabs to it

>>51264705
After cleaning the initial stuff, completely disassemble the brush and clean all the internal parts with cotton swabs with airbrush cleaner. Make sure you get everything.

then re-assemble and flush with water a few times to see that it works again.

>>51264587

If you want them to dry fast: rubbing alcohol or Tamiya X-20A (which is mostly also alcohol)

If you want them smooooth: the tiniest drop of dish soap or Windex mixed with water or thinner

Standard: acrylic thinner or airbrush thinner

Ghetto mode: water

>>51264241

Leadbelcher is not an undercoat, your paintjob will scratch off unless you get an actual primer. None of the sprays GW sells is a primer. Not even Chaos Black and Corax White.

>>51264587
I use Vallejo airbrush thinner, it works very nicely. Though I am only a beginer at using an airbrush so take that with a grain of salt.

>>51264914
water won't do anything to dried acrylic paint.

If you want Getto, try sunflower oil with a little dish-soap mixed in. :)
One of the cheaper airbrush cleaner brands I use is basically this and it works surprisingly well.

>>51264587
See above.

>>51265030

He asked about thinners not cleaners

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I just wanted to drop by and say you guys are doing some nice looking work here. Keep it up!
pic unrelated.

>>51265104

Did the people who made these croissant scythes back in 6E simply replace the croissant as they became wrecked and eaten/expired or did they seal the freshness in with varnish?

>>51265041
>He asked about thinners not cleaners
In this case, I'm more concerned with trying to rescue the damn brush than his preference for thinners.

>>51265224

Nah bro that brush is done, melt it down and buy a new one.

He can probably save it pretty easily with solvents or sonic cleaners if he doesn't care about the chrome finish

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How can i get a stencil like pic related?
i'm going to have to cut it out myself aren't i

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>>51265104
>pink and green

noob here, requesting some paint gore so I know what not to do

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Hi /wip/

I want to get more use out of my airbrush, but I don't know how besides basecoats and lightning claws/OSL stuff.

How would you preshade or severe highlight a metallic red Word Bearers scheme?

Like I guess on these Ultras that I played against. Is that even possible?

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>>51265883
Obligatory

>>51264587
Take it apart and put it in your ultrasonic cleaner with solvents.

>>51266185
Zenithal highlight with various silver metals before doing a red candy coat.

>>51266344

So what would be the process?

I already basecoat vallejo gunmetal, then do a chrome over that at a 45 angle on raised areas but it doesn't seem to affect it that much.

Should I be dulling down the gunmetal before applying chrome, or should I use chrome in less places but more concentrated? Or should I cut down on the red coat as much as possible?

Sorry for all the questions, just an anon trying to get better at painting.

>>51266219
Saddest part about this is that the concept could be really fucking sweet if done well.

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>>51253069
>acting funny

It's ... Jones, isn't it?

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>>51255425
>Bogans may not be refined, but they are the only real Australians who live in cities.

Many of them died to bring us this information.

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Not mine, I really like the gold on this dude's headpiece, it looks more brilliant and lustrous than the box art necron overlords and the video painting done by Duncan

How do you guys think they did it? Or could the picture have been doctored?

The rez orb is pretty sweet too

>>51266458
Without actually being able to see it it is possible you're spraying too much of your highlight colour. That's something you need to judge for yourself by actually looking at it. As always though it's better to start with too little and add more after if you need to.

If you can easily see the highlights in the silver stage and they disappear after the red, then the red coat does need to be thinner.

>>51266812
maybe vallejo liquid gold.

>>51266935

Nah that shit ain't liquid gold look how thick it is.

>>51266812
That rez orb legit looks like a green marble, it's gorgeous

>>51266812
There are smoother brighter metallics than the GW ones.

It could also just be that it wasn't heavily washed like everybody advocates now. Dark washes will dull the metals.

Anyone know of any european-based bit stores with decent stocks of Forgeworld bits?

Trying to build a custom Ekene Dubaku model and really wanted to use the Legion Praetor's "arm leaning on power sword" arm, but can't find the single bit anywhere on eBay.

Also, if the book says that his armor still bears the Imperial Fist heraldry, does that include the overall colors of the armor or just the actual heraldry icons?

>>51266976
>Anyone know of any european-based bit stores with decent stocks of Forgeworld bits?
There's World of Bits. It's an ebay seller based in Berlin.
>Trying to build a custom Ekene Dubaku model and really wanted to use the Legion Praetor's "arm leaning on power sword" arm, but can't find the single bit anywhere on eBay.
You could also try to get your hands on the arm from the Space Marines captain with powersword and powerfist. The one that came out a while ago as apocalypse formation. He also has his hand resting on the sword.
The Grey Knight terminator or powerarmor sprues should also have a bit where the sword is planted in a demons head I think.
Same goes for Deathwing. The new plastic kit has an arm with the hand resting on the crossguard too.
All of these are separate at the wrist, so you can just attach the sword with the hand to either a PA or a TDA suit.

>>51266976
It's actually really easy to make your own arm like that by getting a power sword arm, cutting the sword parts off and swapping them around.

>>51266976
>does that include the overall colors of the armor or just the actual heraldry icons?

Heraldry is the symbols and designs on the shoulders, chest, and other armor parts. I'd be willing to bet if they meant colors they'd say livery.

>>51267024
>World of Bits
Yeah, usually buy from him and I saw him have all the bits you listed a while ago but he's miraculously ran out of almost all of them now that I'd want a fancy sword for my mini.

About that Grey Knight sword: is that short enough to give to a normal power armored marine? Might settle for that if I can't find anything else (provided that he has it).

>>51267060
Wanted that Praetor sword because of the sword's design as well, not only for the pose.

>>51265703
Thats a decal forgeworld puts out. Thats apparently out of print now.

https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-BE/Valkyrie-Transfer-Sheet

>>51267165
No that one is completely difference since it doesn't have the actual eagle heads.

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>>51267127
>About that Grey Knight sword: is that short enough to give to a normal power armored marine? Might settle for that if I can't find anything else (provided that he has it).

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Finished another Clanrat my dudes

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>>51259738
I know it's bad.

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I like how they turned out so far. Not the best but it'll do.

>>51267419
>I know it's bad.

How do you get yer stuff to stick to the wall like that? Lots of blu-tack?

>>51267569
magnets, lots of magnets

>>51267481
Ive seen and painted far worse. Would you like a tip for the white?

>>51267204
Well there's that answered.

One last thing: a Necron Warrior's legs should be compatible as a bionic leg for a normal Space Marine knee-down, shouldn't it?

>>51267419
FFS, hide your debit card.

>>51267602
With some cutting and greenstuffing for sure. You could also look at the skitarri stuff.

>>51267597
I'd love any and all tips anon.

>>51267602
Yeah they are about the same size.
Though the Iron Hands minis have some pretty nice bionic legs.
If you decide to use Necron legs anyway at least dress them up a bit to make them less obvious. Add shin armor to the front and modify the foot into a four claw mini dread foot like the old 2nd edition captain for example.

>>51267627
From the looks of it, it's one of those they send out in the mail trying to get you to start a card. Likely used as a tool or free plasticard.
>>51267631
White's all about layering up to it. Grey or tan bases work alright though Ive started using Rakarth Flesh as the base coat, layering on Pallid Witch Flesh. You can either stop there as I usually do because I enjoy the off white or layer White Scar or use it as a highlight. Rakarth is also a great base for flesh tones. Your bases could use some more color variation from what I can see but that could just be the photo, either let some washes fill the recesses or do a light drybrush. Even both. You might also gently drybrush the sandbags. You might also pick out the aquillas on the helmets in something, light grey maybe or another color to compliment the cyan. Are you having trouble painting the small details like the rank insignias?

>>51267602
You should take a look at the Anvil bionic leg bits.

>>51267740
Any sort of detail is difficult, my hand shakes 24/7 which makes details hard. I can't even manage edging so I just wash and drybrush everything.

>>51267845
I'm not sure how you paint but I found having something to sit on your lap that you can rest your hands on helps a ton. Not only does it help you brace your hands while holding the model it brings it lets you rest the model closer to your face so you can see it better. I have a small cardboard box that I've used for years, just gotta find something the right size for you.

>>51267845
Ive got hand tremors too, an easy work around in to base either your wrists or elbows on your desk or other stable surface. Ive also found that using a paint pot or wine cork with blu-tack on the top to hold your mini helps me a lot. Anything else you'd like help with?

>>51267881
That's, brace, not base. apologies.

>>51267631
I'm sure you'll love the tip of my cock.

>>51267928
send it in the mail please

>>51267845
Literally everybody says that. Just keep practising.

The problem you have with edge highlighting I 100% guarantee you is a combination of you using improper technique, having paint that is too thick and having too much paint on the brush.

>>51268008
hmu with a video on proper technique?

>>51267876
>>51267881
I already brace my wrists/arms on my desk while I paint, and even then sometimes my hands shake too much to do anything painting related.
I've been holding my models with an old base with sticky tack and that helped.

>>51268008
Teach me your ways.

>>51268008
Make sure you're well fed and hydrated as well, that can make you shake too.

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I want to start over again on this guy, I cannot get these tattoos to look right or good. I cant get the lines in the tattoo to stay at a consistent width, i assume I am doing something wrong, maybe to much paint on the brush or too thick? I don't quite understand if I should be painting just the bottom of the tattoo with white or more like filling the gap with paint so that it's also touching either side of the gap if that makes sense. Model is primed with grey by the way I know it looks like plastic but it's not I assure you. Also I've only painted the blue skin I am aware the rest looks like dogshit but I really did try on the blue skin/tats.

I'm not happy with it at all. Any advice?

Wanting to make a basic little light box (saw some foam board at the dollar store that looks workable). If it pans out I'll make a nice one from pvc and fabric.

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>>51268550

Better picture (maybe) of my shoddy work.

>>51268089
Quick tips:
For any kind of detail with an actual defined edge like IG armour you don't use the tip of the brush. You have the brush perpendicular to the edge and use the middle of the bristles to drag along the edge. The edge does the effort of keeping it straight for you as long as your brush isn't overloaded with paint.

Paint should be thin enough that it effortlessly flows off the brush. Thicker paint means you need more force to get it off the brush which means you're more likely to make a mistake.

Taking your time is incredibly important. You don't have to highlight every single edge of the miniature in one go. You only need a little bit of paint on the brush and after lightly dipping it in the paint you should be wiping some of it off. Less paint = crisper lines. Part of taking your time is also only doing small movements.

So you quickly get into a rhythm of getting paint > wiping and twisting to reform tip > doing a small segment > cleaning brush > repeat.

>>51268550
>>51268647
I'm not sure i understood correctly what your problem is. You are trying to replicate the GW paintjob, but have problems 'staying in the lines'?
But if it's just that you have a hard time staying inside the lines, try thinning your paint down so it flows easy out of your brush, but do not overload your brush.If you got too much paint on your brush it will make it hard to control how much flow out. Like you'd do when you freehand something.
If you have to use a smaller brush do that. A bigger brush will have a bigger reservoir though, i.e. hold more paint and make it a bit more comfortable. Any brush with a good tip should do though, the trick is to really just paint with only the tip, takes a bit of practice and decent brush control.
Then just put in an even layer a light blue until you are happy with the lines and start glazing dark blue and white to add the color variations.

Does that help you at all?

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To build my dark eldar army I'm buying a bunch of start collecting boxes, which means I'll be left with 2 spare archons.
Anyone got ideas on what to convert these into?

>>51269153
NOTHING.

get 5, send them in deep in a apocalypse with clone fields and charge titans!

>>51265152
I don't actually know but an educated guess is to select a brand that uses too many preservatives (anything sold in gas stations is usually meant to have extra long self-life) and avoid touching anything but the base for maximum durability and longevity..

>>51270200
Shelf not 'self'-life, you get the idea.

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imagine being the lucky guy who got to paint this

>>51270469
>scraped knees for the emprah
Hope the promotion was worth it.