WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Uh, Mr. Magnus, sir? You fixed the flesh change, right? Cause, uh, Steve isnt looking so good.

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Here is some clanrats I'm working on

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>>51274222

>>51274160
He's...turning into a moose? Do the Thousand Sons recruit from space canada?

If my Dark Eldar's main colour is going to be dark purple, which should I use as accent colour:

>Neon Blue
>Neon Green
>Neon Orange

>>51274248
>all is dust eh

>>51274160
Interesting

>>51274262
Orange will contrast better.

>>51274248
No wonder they deserved only death and Atomic Fire.

>>51274262
Neon Blue, nearest colour to Purple, i think.

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I'm getting back to the hobby and I desperately need a new phone.

>>51275294
You need a backdrop
and from the looks of it new glassware

>>51275307
why? It's lovely

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Doing some more work on the Psyker

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So, WIP, I want to paint my necrons in pic related colour scheme.
Limbs and Lower torso with Abaddon Black and Eshin grey highlights.
Chest, head, shoulders and spine Ulthuan Grey/Celestra Steele with White Scar for highlights.
Anything tubes/energy/eyes goes Caledor Sky.
The glyph stays golden, higher ranking stuff gets more elaborate details.
I want to base them like that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om_oul2UdyU

So, what I'm actually want to ask is: Any constructive criticism? I've yet to start actually painting them, but that's what I want to go for.

Hey guys.

am trying to find some nice model to convert into Inquisitorial psykers. Any idea ?

(i was going to ask for inq bits but then remembered there's nothing outside FW's etched brass and green stuff)

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Christ extra arms take forever to deflock. Pleased with how the conversions worked out, used the power tool spares and banner from the hybrid kit on the deathwatch acolytes. Fuck buying a acolyte iconward for £15.

>>51275707
>am trying to find some nice model to convert into Inquisitorial psykers. Any idea ?
trolls under the bridge and kromlech do alt inquisition models.

>>51275728
>fully assembling before priming/painting

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>>51275529

If I want my Blood Bowl dwarfs to have a purple uniform, what colors should I get?
Should I make metallic purple?
What colors should I make the clothes and the gems?

>>51275890
I want the bases to be grey and also they mostly have really open postures so it's easy to get around the parts. Plus it was hard to judge if the conversions would fit without just glueing them in place.

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>>51276025
Skaven team is in moot green cloth with genestealer purple armour. Washed the armour in a green wash which actually looks better than the purple washes.

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>>51275707
>>51275864
just gonna post the minis i can think off
all with the eye staff.

>>51276125
and what are you using for highlightning the Genstealer purple?

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>>51276127

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>>51276153

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>>51276195

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So i'm trying to paint the Ogroid and i'm struggling with the tattoo's, i've drawn an awful diagram to hopefully try and explain what i dont understand how i should be painting it.

This is supposed to be a cross section view of the model (very simplistic obviously).

When painting the tatoo area i am unsure if i should be doing it like 1,2,3 or 4.
Should it be one layer of paint like in picture 1? Or several layers like in picture 4? I find that when i am trying to do it, the paint from the tattoo scheme ends up on either side of the "trench" depression like in picture 2 which i am unsure if thats ok, i get the feeling those side walls should still be the same colour as the skin on top? OR perhaps i am totally wrong and i am actually supposed to "fill up" the depression with paint like in diagram 3. I highly doubt that but i thought i'd include it.

I hope that makes somewhat sense, i dont think it does but maybe someone can decipher my bullshit and help me out.

>>51276151
Not sure yet, its between daemonette hide and slaanesh grey. Slaanesh grey is a 'redder' purple so it fits genestealer better but it's also quite bright and may be stark whilst daemonette hide is bluer but darker also.

>>51276234
2.

About to begin on Crawl, and wanted a diffrent paint scheme for him.

I was looking for a creamy look for his robes, sadly I can't seem to paint cloth worth a damn.

Anyone got a good guide for the absolutely talentless on cream cloth?

Been looking for the deathwing-ish cream if that matters.

>>51276234
1/4 would look cleanest to me.

2 is gonna end up looking messy imo. Speaking from years of experience painting the trim on marines and chaos here.

3 should not happen. At least not with paint.

The problem with 2 is that you have to redraw a new border yourself. Meaning you'll basically redraw the pattern freehand, which defeaths the point of molded detail in the first place.

In any case there is no 'right' way to do it.
Try both ways and see which one looks better to you and the go with that.

>>51276251
cream is basically a colour three-way between Brown, Yellow and White and it usually goes from brown to yellow to white as more light reflects upon it. start with a brown basecoat, then a thin coat of ushabti bone or zandri dust. Then another coat this time ignoring the deep folds, then a brown wash. go over with a thin coat of zandri/ushabti on raised surfaces, finally hit the most raised parts in a thin coat of white.

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>>51276249
>>51276319

Thank you i aprreciate the response. Just i was really unhappy with how inconsistent the tatoo looked, like sometimes i had paint just on the bottom, other times the paint was catching the sides, other times i was just not accurate enough and was overspilling onto the top. I was struggling to explain what i ment and i'm glad you guys understood. Thanks again, i'll just keep practicing. This is the model as he looks, i'll be starting again on him. I posted it last thread but didnt explain it very well.

Do you guys choose what to equip your models with based on what you think you'll use while playing or what you think looks cool?

>>51276411
yes.
For my first army I went with meltas and multimeltas on principle because I liked the look best.
I also know I will probably never use gravgun cause it doesn't feel 40k enough for me. The look doesn't sit well with me.
For squad leaders and characters it's 50/50 what would look cool and be a good combination on the table. Though it's harder to go wrong there.

Guess I mostly just go with what looks cool because the rules are gonna be obsolete the next edition.
And I started building most of my collection in 3rd when the distinction between power axes, swords and maces did not exist anymore.

>>51276411
Both. I'll try and find a balance between cool, fluffy and useful.

>>51276411
depends but most tend to equip according to rules, no one would care if you called a slightly different appearance a certain option i.e hand flamers can be autopistols and so on. Often you don't even get supplied enough parts to make rules credible units.

What's the best/cheapest product that you guys use to achieve still water effect?

I have some swamp bases on my desk and would like to pick /tg/ brain on what to use.

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>>51276411
I always want to go with 1 but then I look at how awesome burst canons and broadside railgun look and go with 2.

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>>51276251
How I do them (primed black):
Zandri Dust basecoat
thinned Ushabti Bone over everything
layer of Ushabti Bone on the more raised parts
Pallid Wych Flesh broad highlight
White Scar sharp edge highlight

>>51276744
If you're doing robed marines prime in bone, plain prime in dark angels.. Why prime in black anymore? Atleast prime in grey

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>>51275707
>am trying to find some nice model to convert into Inquisitorial psykers. Any idea ?

You mean "psyker that is part of an Inquisitorial retinue" as opposed to "Inquisitor who is also a psyker", right?

Mordheim Augur
Imperial Navigator
Astropath

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I can't paint infantry sized miniatures for shit.

Just applying grey metallics to this 1996 finecast Kharn. Leadbelcher on, ready to wash in a couple minutes

The skulls look so much shutter than I thought with strong light from my flash on them

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>>51276979
It doesn't look good because you're painting everything solid, leaving all the details devoid of depth. Like I told another anon, if you're going to have most of your scheme one color, in your case gold, then prime in gold. Use GW's new Retributor spray, paint the rest of the model's silver, bone skin and blood bits and the wash the hell out of it using watered down Agrax Earthshade.

>>51277085
If you want to you can highlight after washing as well but it's not necessary if you're worried about messing it up.

>>51277085
Oh no it isn't going to mostly be gold. I'm painting from the minor details down to save having to worry about getting drybrushed golds and shit all over my reds

>>51277118
Regardless because you have to progress from black your paints are looking thick.

>>51276127
Reaper has a ton of nice models to use for various characters, especially Inquisitorial ones.

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Hope I can finish up my Gorechosen tonight then seal them.

>>51275864
>>51276127
>>51276932
Thanks for the replies.

And for Inquisition bits (like insigna), any idea or I have to commit on GS and etched brass ?

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Got the Bandersnatch finished now.
I was originally going to do a pattern or something on its back but I've decided I do like the totally white appearance.

fuck, I cant remember the base color for the skin I use for my orks.

>>51277589
You could do with making the transition from the shadow to the white a little smoother, I can see you've tried a sort of spike pattern but I think a gradient would look a lot nicer. A little more glazing on the OSL might be an idea as well, but it's looking better than the last time you posted it.

Nice conversion and decent paintjob, just needs some touchups.

>>51277348
How did you do the gold?

>>51274151

Left marines in a tub of simple green for four days. A bit of the paint still isn't coming off. I'm annoyed. Should I just let them soak in that shit for a month? Will all the paint eventually dissolve?

Will the glue dissolve too because 15 year old me thought it would be fun to give them cool poses that make it harder to paint.

>>51277789

I am also brushing pretty hard. Damn, I love me some THICC PAINT

>>51277789

You're going to need to scrub to get rid of 100% of the paint. Even then some may still remain in cracks. You can soak them for a thousand years and they won't be 100% clean without scrubbing.

>>51277664
Green

>>51277789
Take an old electric toothbrush and one of the soft heads for it and go to town.

>>51277789
>Left marines in a tub of simple green for four days. A bit of the paint still isn't coming off.

Did you scrub them with an old toothbrush when you took them out, or are you just staring at them?

How good idea of using Tamiya cloloured metallics as base for my alpha marines?

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>>51276409

Paint the model somewhat complete, gloss varnish and let dry. Go over tattoos with oil based wash, white first and then the color of your choice = profit.

The gloss varnish will not only create greater friction, so to let the oil run swift and steady through all the crooks and crannies in those tattoos, it will also serve as a protection when you "clean up" with thinner on a q-tip.

Then go back with a satin or matte varnish.

>>51277927
it is better to use washes, or better yet, an artificer paint set, and make your own out of the bottle solution.

>>51277927

Tamiya light metallic blue is a good AL base. It's bright, but you can bring it down with Clear Blue or FW clear blue or blue glazes, and the clear green of AL. If you use the other Tamiya metallic blues they are kinda dark.

>>51277875

Scrubbed them with an old toothbrush lol.

>>51277872
Will try that tomorrow, thanks yo. Gotta see if I have any spare electric heads around.

>>51277833
Will do, will do.

Hopefully in two week's time I can get them to the point of repainting where they won't look 100% shitty.

Also, get red primer to do Blood Angels and spray whole thing at once followed by a wash? Or spray with black primer then go over with red paint.

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Before I get banter, I am going to be making a light box so I can take pictures that don't look like ass

This is my second mini ever painted, and I went out and got a detail brush and that helped a lot on making it better.
Highlighting is hard as fuck and I really need to get better.
any critique I can get?

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>>51278261
and the back

>>51276703
You could always attach the missile pods to the Railgun barrel. But i agree, Railsides are best sides

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>>51277994
One guy said its good idea to combine X-13 METALLIC BLUE and X-25 CLEAR GREEN to get something like on pic but more blue

>>51278261
for your second miniature that's pretty good, you seem to be on the right track so just keep doing what you're doing and practice more.

>>51278310

Sure, but that's a very dark blue compared to FW's metallic blue. If you like the look, go ahead. Tamiya has dark metallic blue as well if you want the 40k AL look.

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>>51277589
I like it (and I'm glad the moss tutorial worked out for you), but as I know you're intending to do OSL again in future I'll jump in for some critique.

When you're actually taking the colour of the light into account, which you must with OSL, it applies to everything.
I think you would have had a lot more success at portraying your warm lantern light if everything else was tinted by a cold moonlight- bandersnatch, rocks, moss, and our wandering aussie.

I'll keep looking for some better examples, as I know I have seen some, but here's a starter.

>>51278261
Keep practicing, don't neglect the green gaiters, base your models.

Good work anon.

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>>51278074
>Scrubbed them with an old toothbrush lol.

The little wands women use for mascara (pic related) are great for getting in tight spaces that toothbrushes have a problem with. This seems to be more prevalent on plastic models,

>Also, get red primer to do Blood Angels and spray whole thing at once followed by a wash? Or spray with black primer then go over with red paint.

Red over black is going to be a real challenge - probably unnecessarily so, unless you like your Blood Angels unnaturally dark. Red primer would be better, and white primer is my personal favourite.

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Well after trying the advice I got the other day it looks like the first pic in here. I realized maybe the problem here is the entire mace is a single color and it looks like a blob with no definition. So I went into a 9000-hour-in-paint rampage to design some variations on the mace colors. I think this is the key to make it look good, what do you think?

>>51278609
Lower left looks the coolest to me, although its still lacking something... Let me think, ill come back to ya

>>51276818
>Why prime in black anymore?

To do a zenithal combination prime.
As a one-size-fits-most primer so you're not upfront buying a whole bunch of rattlecans.
If you're careful you can skip darklining.
To keep a collection consistent.
To avoid giving your models an overall tint of the coloured primer.

You do you, as long as you're not fucking up no way is wrong.

>>51278609
I think just making the rings connecting the spikes black and leaving the spikes coppery in their entirety. So like top right, but not putting the iron in the groove under the spike.

>>51278683
>To do a zenithal combination prime.

Black won't be your only primer in a zenithal.

>As a one-size-fits-most primer so you're not upfront buying a whole bunch of rattlecans.

Then use grey.

>If you're careful you can skip darklining.

That's a dumb reason and is slower than just doing actual lining. At best, you have to be careful with your basecoat and layer, at worst, you have to be careful with dozens of blends just because you want to preserve your dumb primer blackline instead of just using an easy ink or wash.

>To keep a collection consistent.

So to perpetuate your original mistake.

>To avoid giving your models an overall tint of the coloured primer.

Grey primer.

I'm not even him but you're retarded and have yet to give one good reason for black primer. Use it if you want but don't try to pretend it's not trash and you only use it to stay trash.

>>51278752
We're just going to disagree on this my dude. I see people produce incredible work off straight black, off zenithals, off grey and off coloured undercoats, and these people don't use one way of priming all the time.

I'm sorry you're upset about other people doing things that don't affect you.

>>51278894
>>51278752
why bother with zenithal highlighting in the first place? It rarely looks good

>>51275596
Use mechanicus standard grey or dawnstone for the highlights. Eshin grey won't stand out enough and it will just look primed.

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hey peers what do you think about my alpha (soviet type insurgency) chosen? any tip will be apreciated, for the record i posted this in warhammer general too

>>51277534
You could see if the new Deathwatch kits have something useful.

>>51279055
what makes it soviet?

>>51279055
No washes?

>>51278358
In OPs pic they used a leadbelcher base and washed it, no reason not to use something brighter though. Wash naturally becoems thinner on edges and raised surfaces so it maintains a better highlight than straight metallic paint will making it a better choice. What would you even highlight metallic blue with?

>>51279055

Your paint is way too thick dude, you're killing a lot of the detail on the model.

The silver is painted over bone and horn

No washes to add shade

No highlights

You just need more practice

>>51279055
>thick paint obscuring details
>no recess washes, layers, or highlights
>paint colors bleeding into other details
>visible basecoat under paint in several areas

it's pretty bad, really. keep on practicing

>>51279149
Mb he used "star" paint from Russian (soviet) company? Its very cheap and not good as cytadel paints

>>51274248

Best laugh i've had in days, thank you

>>51279055
Paint could use thinning, base paints like leadbelcher and semtex green/stegadick green have high pixel count so go for a dilute two coats. a wash would be good nuln oil or agrax should cover all bases. Maybe some white/cream on the horn and jewel up that middle stone.

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Slow going, been too busy to paint the last couple of days.

Still tons to do, probably won't finish until the end of the weekend I'm guessing

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>>51279149
o yea i forgot, every chosen has a piece of red clothing, but the cultists are painted red and im working on a che guevara banner for them, its bad but im experimenting withit yet

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>>51279347
>im working on a che guevara banner for them

Don't... don't do this

>>51279336
Is that his actual head?

PUT THE HOOD BACK ON JESUS FUCK!

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>>51279430
i intent to make it cheese and stupid,che guevara face, but something like the champion face on black, or maybe a red flag with a chaos star painted in yellowand a chainsaw and a bolter or something like that

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I just got into 40k. These are my first few painted carcharodons. Still need to freehand chapter symbols on their pauldrons.
Thoughts so far?

>>51279549
YES. DO IT. it will be an intresting change from the Nazi gaurdsmen.

>>51279324
thank you man ill be looking into those shades later, but the idea of painting everything with metal is that i have the idea they dont get to hang around the warp enough to make their armor warp, so they make their armor look that way to intimidate more or something

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>>51274151
Waiting on the glue to dry to finish off part of my menoth dudes.

>>51279549
fucking do it, itll look so good I can already tell

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I literally have no idea what should I use as wings for my Cirno Marines.

>>51279606
mold line on the leg of the middle marine there

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>>51279679
>you will never be this good at painting

>>51280018
Aww thanks anon thats made my day.

I think I'm shit desu, I still can't blend very well and I always think my paint is too thick.

>>51280102
Pre-shade your models and paint with washes. It's magic.

>>51280180
so you mean like pre highlight them, then shade?

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Making a base for my Nihilakh Dynasty Triarch Stalker.

Reckon it needs anything else?

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Here's my archon for my new dark eldar army
I feel this is the standard " I bought the start collecting box" style archon but regardless I think he looks very cool and threatening without the stupid anime crossed weapon arms thing.
Also these guys are fucking huge compared to guardsmen, like a full head taller

>>51280304
> stupid anime
> WH40k
You cant choose only one

>>51279606


mouldines

>>51280304

Dark Eldar are big guys

>>51280224
No, don't shade. Literally paint with washes.

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>>51280431
For you.

>>51279606
I like that head on the right, the others are fairly scuffed looking but that's probably cause of handling.

Is white primer supposed to look this grainy? It's not really visible to the naked eye but still seems kind of off. Also this is my first attempt at layering.

>>51280456
>>51280224
He means like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5mcpGhUJzM

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>>51280490
Forgot the picture.

>>51280505
Its because you either didnt shake the can enough, you sprayed too close, too far, or in too cold or hot weather. You gotta get a sweetspot and do short spurts, pratice on a piece of plastic or something till you find the distance that makes it smooth (About 12"s away). Dont be worried about wasting primer, no matter what on 3% of the primer or spray paint goes on the model anyways. Overall the layering looks nice and like you said no one will really notice unless they look close , though i would at some point recommend stripping it ( It looks like a metal model so it should be easy.
Is that a catachan?

>>51280239
It needs a model on it.

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>>51280611
It will have eventually

>>51280490

No.

>>51280304
Most people don't realize that eldar are almost as tall as space marines.

Yes, they are amazon space elves.

>>51280470
Eldar are slender, but really tall.
As you would expect from "space elves."

>>51280497
You have to build layers. I usually prime the model black then highlight it with dark grey from above. The next step is watered down basecoat and then just washes made from layer paint mixed with vallejo glazes and water. The idea is to not let anything go into the recesses so you have to just gentle touch the surface of the wash with your brush. It's just like painting with like 25% percent opacity or so. Everything blends easily.

>>51279606
Ka pai bro
Always nice to see carcharodons. Are you gonna give them exile tats?

>>51275596
too much black you wont be able to see anything.

Never try to paint minis black or white, always use an off white or dark grey. Else you cannot shade the mini and it will be flat and you lose all the detail.

>>51280596
It's a metal Catachan officer. I primarily work with metal models because I like the better durability and details they have compared to plastic/resin. I already stripped him once, and this is actually much nicer. It's my first time using white primer in a long time, but I'm trying to branch out and try new techniques.

>>51280505
Your primer's drying mid air due to tempature, humidity, distance, or not shaking the ever loving fuck out of the can. Check the back for ideal conditions.

Anyone know where I can get custom cut/etched brass, want to make some fancy trim for my vehicles but everything local is industrial scale and my googlefu is weak

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>>51280304
Wicked.

>>51281096
I guess I didn't shake it enough. I've never had this issue before with spray cans. The humidity in Hawaii is always a bit high, but it never gets too hot or too cold at least. Feels like I'm never going to get an army on the table at the rate I'm stripping and repainting figures.

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How do I highlight, but make it smooth and not stand out as much?
The GW model's highlights don't POP at you, but mine seem to POP out. It doesn't look bad,
I just want to know of there's a certain method to blend it better,

>>51281203
Applying a wash helps blend layers/highlights together.

>>51281212
so after I have highlighted the model, I should wash it?

>>51281203

They tone it down with lots of glazes, or they do very subtle highlights. For example, a blue highlight would not be highlighted with a lighter blue from GW, it would be the same blue but with a tiny bit of white mixed in, then repeat 3 or more times.

>>51274234
Spooky eyes! Nice!

>>51281255
Yeah, that's what I did with the Catachan officer posted above (ignore the grainy primer job). I only did 3 layers to test it, but it came out well. It would probably be even more effective if you're doing 4 or 5 layers.

A question for you guys:

If you are assembling a model and you see that there is a gap between parts and you plan to fill this gap with greenstuff, do you either:

1. Superglue the model together, then go in afterwards with greenstuff; e.g. pressing greenstuff into the gaps and smoothing out the surface

or

2. Use greenstuff to bond the parts together themselves; e.g. put greenstuff between the parts, smoosh together, smooth out the surface

>>51281172
Holy fuck are you me. Im ob hawaii ad noticed the same with white primer the past week

>>51281315
Thanks man!

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>>51281172
have you considered paint on primer or gesso? i recommend liquitex gesso; comes in white, black, and grey. i've also read recommendations for vallejo paint on primer.

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So I have Thrakka Green wash but I have absolutely no memory of getting it, or what it was for. The good news is that I'll be painting green onto my Chimera here soon, but given that I have no recollection of the wash, I wanted to see if anyone else had experience with it. How dark is too dark for Thrakka? I'll be using Vallejo Cayman Green; should I just go with a black wash?

>>51281526

Assemble then fill gap with greenstuff.

>>51278609
whew, i was the dude who offered up the paragraph or so of what to change, deff looking alot more stand-out than it was before and it's no longer being washed out by the red. i do agree though, that something else is needed, but i feel if you were to change the colour too much, it'll get too messy looking/broken up too much - not 100% sure on that though.

I think try go for the bottom left image, but, instead of just making those bits black, just darken them a fuck ton, almost as if the bronze/brassy parts are being burned by the glowy orb and are darker closer to it, it will add emphasis to the orb and draw more attention to it imo, without having too much on the mace going on.

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Think this is going to work? Aiming to convert it to look like a final fantasy Black Mage.

If all goes well, the Vaseline on the paint lid will let me slide it off and put it onto the model tomorrow.

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Infinity fag from >>51214182 with some more work on the Russian Space Werewolf.

>>51280490
you're gonna have to strip it if you want to get rid of the grainyness, mate. sorry about that. happened the first time i used an armypainter white primer, too. ruined a whole squad of orks

>>51278261
Looks good, second mini or no.

>>51281555
I used black gesso almost exclusively for a few months. The white gesso doesn't cover as well. Also because I'm painting metal I'm trying to use a proper primer to prevent chipping. Gesso is great but doesn't make the best primer for metal.

>>51281532
We should hang out sometime and fuck up spraying white primer on our models.

>>51283370
I'm sure you love to get together with other guys and spray white stuff on each other.

>>51277789
simple green is weak as shit

use the super clean

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I have a model that's like 80% red, think like a blood angel kinda.
Would this type of base work best for the red model? If not, do you have any suggestions?

>>51283388
Yes but that's completely independent of my painting.

>>51283707
This is true. Super Clean is the best. The burning sensation on your skin really lets you know its working.

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A while back there was an anon who was converting a bunch of Skaven to use as Grotesques for his Dark Eldar, he even had his artsy brother draw up a comic with his backstory, and it was pretty fucking cool.

Anybody know what I'm talking about? Anybody save that?

I can't wait till I paint my newest force.... I call them... the mold line marines.

>>51279679

But anon, Menoth Zealots come in one solid piece, they don't need glued.

>>51279606
rike the knife on that SM left shoulder

>>51283963
wear gloves and keep some acid on hand to neutralize it

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Just finished my first celestial Lion, i wanted to go for more of a darker gold instead of such a bright one. First time painting a marine, it was thoroughly enjoyable, made some mistakes but gonna make sure i take note for the other 9 i have to go.

>>51283370
what island are you on? I only know of Oahu that even has a hobby store.

Had to strip a tank for the third time after paint started rubbing off and or peeling when i handled it or used bluetac to mask.
Is there anything that can help this? is my paint not fully bonded?

>>51285317
Oahu. Armchair Adventurer and Other Realms are the stores I go to when I get the chance.

>>51285350
Use a better primer and give it more time.

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>>51285317
oh and I suppose I'll post. My first ever minis, from left to right in the order I painted them. The first two I realized I had a real problem with cleaning the damn things up of extra sprue, though that middle Marine's barrel was just sort of fucked up. The first one that pose came out wrong so now he just looks like hes miring the fuck out of his fist. The last one I was decently happy with, during the base coat stage, my lines were really clean, but I fucked up while applying the Tamiya clear red and my attempts at dry brushing the eagle. Every attempt to fix it made it worse so I just took a step back. I still need to go back and reedge highlight the bolters, and the white is pretty flat, but hopefully the new brushes I got, recommended off of here, help me a little bit.
I think the third fig would have came out better if I didn't start rushing the very last steps.

Thoughts on the red/white scheme as well?

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>>51283768
A earthy greenish base would look good. But something in a light tan like standard GW bases would contrast nicely as well. In my experience Steel Legion Drab goes with just about anything.

>>51285380
Nice, Ive only been to other realms twice, but my car broke down, then once I got it fixed they told me I had to do a bunch of shit for the safety check so I just sold it and now other realms is a pain in the ass of a bus ride away. It's pretty close to my job, but I usually never feel like doing shit after my work day. The dude there was super cool though. I never heard of armchair adventurer, I might have to take a look.

>>51285391
I've been using automotive primer and leaving it over night.

>>51285433
Try a different primer brand/can. I 'd also say try washing the tank, but I imagine that's happening as part of the stripping process anyway.

>>51285433
are you using the rustoleum primer brand? Because that shit says on the can it can take up to 48 hours to cure. I would spray and forget for about 3 days to let it "cure" before touching the models. That's what I do and it works out.

>>51281959
That is fantastic and I look forward to seeing the end result. Internet high five bro.

>>51285433
Try 48-72 hours.
Use gloves when handling it to avoid damage from your skin.
Give it a coat of gloss varnish before you start masking (and give this a good amount of time to properly cure).

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>>51283707
Super Clean works, if you're a wee babby. This shit right here works like a fuckin' dream.

>Dilute before Use
Ignore this, just chuck stuff in whole. Plastic, resin, metal, all gets stripped the same.

I use 91% isopropyl alcohol on a couple of nail brushes (because they have that neat wraparound handle) to scrub off anything that might be left over, and yeah, shit OBLITERATES paint.

>>51283707
Fuck all these brands.
Just pick up any heavy duty engine degreaser and shit should be fine.

So for painting Mechanicus, would using Leadbelcher spray be helpful? I've heard that it's just a basecoat, not a primer, and the GW website says so, but Duncan's video on painting Cawl showed him using it as an undercoat. Then again he did lie to me about imperial primer. If it's not any good, what's an alternative I can use without an airbrush?

>>51285791
Just give it a black primer spray, then Leadbelcher.

>>51285414
It's literally within walking distance of Other Realms. Hit me up at teve.torbes on Skype and maybe I can give you a ride sometime.

>>51285870
thanks homie. I looked it up, right by Costco right? I passed that place all the time when heading over to Dole Theater.

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I'm getting the itch to paint really bad right now, but unfortunately I have nothing primed and it's winter so I can't use my spray primers anyway.

Has anyone ever tried priming with gesso? It's a trick I just stumbled on from an old forum post and seems interesting. Here's the article: http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

Alternatively, can anyone recommend me a brush on primer that's halfway decent?

>>51285791
Don't waste your money on GW sprays.

>>51285922
That's the place. Pretty friendly vibe. They're smaller than Other Realms, but they're also the only people on island that I'm aware of that stocks Vallejo paints.

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>>51285209

>>51285961
I'll have to take a look then, I was thinking of using their metal line, and didn't want to do another amazon order.

I think I got you on skype, i'll hit you up sometime.

>>51281172
Airbrush, maybe? I'm at the jersey shore and it's what I use.

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Finished my first serious mini (real first was a formation of the cheap $10 Skeleton Warrior for paint practice), I feel like he turned out alright even though I didn't give the coat that much of a highlight.

Has anyone tried using the gemstone paints for space marine lenses? I just started getting into painting and I do a decent job on the rest of the model but then blow it hard on the eyes.

>>51286500
Looks alright but you need to thin that metal paint

>>51286500

It seems the primer has gone all bumpy and chalky. Also the metallics are bad. You need to focus on neatness (coats are uneven, the eye-pieces aren't that neat). Brown on the backpack and gun are messy.

Also learn how to hide transfers. Apply a coat of matte varnish (or in some cases shading after applying the transfers works too).

Keep practicing, you'll get there eventually.

Where can I buy decent quality round bases for a bargain price? (GW copies basically)

>>51286654
http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=25mm+round+bases

>>51286654
I've heard that gw has the exact angle of their bases copyrighted.

Alright, WIP-its, I got a full team of Guild Ball metal minis coming in the mail that will be here Friday, I have done fuck all in terms of mini work and assembly before on this level.

I have painted a few models for zombiecide and other plastic minis that were already put together (use gray primer and all that jazz) and use Vallejo Game Color and Reaper Master Series paints which I believe makes me some kind of shit-tier painter right off according to some forums but I like the bright ass colors and fantasy feel and blah, blah, blah, ramble, ramble.

Here's the gist of it, what the fuck do you recommend I do for my first go at working with metal minis I need to put together (I am to understand that no pinning is necessary with these minis, so I don't need to know about drilling, Thank Christ).

I have the following gear outside of paints.
Xacto-knife and blades
Mini steel file set
Quick set Super Glue Gel
Some ballast and such from model trains sets for effects on the base
Emory boards
Brushes
Pallets
Magnifying lamp with clamps
My retarded ass mitts and my swingin' cock

What do I do when these metal babies arrive needing my TLC and I all I got is the mentality and Dexterity of Lenny from Of Mice and Men?

>>51286845
Does china care?

Anyone else /massivebacklog/ here?

I just did an inventory of all my figs the other day and I've got almost 300 unpainted models in my backlog.

Was gonna donate some orks to a friend whos starting out an ork kill-team but he insisted on giving me a bunch of his old marines in return so I'm back to square one.

How do you find the motivation to work through your backlog and not get swamped by the amount of work?

>>51286979

Painting isn't a chore, it's a meditative practice. Put on some soothing music and relax. It is your time to be at peace, your moments of prayer/zen. Make the time to improve your mental health.

Painting the snarl on a rampaging Ork just so might seem like a chore to most people, but this is how you meditate.

Treat it as such and make yourself paint for at least 1 hour a day for a couple of weeks and you will soon find yourself falling into it out of habit and relaxation.

Unlike actually playing with the fucking thing.

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>>51277927
>>51277994
>>51278310
There's also glazing with Guilliman Blue + Waywatcher Green, or using only Vallejo Gunmetal Blue.

>>51286979
Well, mine just started in full. I got my Warpath kickstarter right in the midst of graduation and the ensuing job search. So now I've got 40k equivalents of... 2000 points of Plague, 2000 points of Asterians, and 2000 points of GCPS. With vehicles coming in Wave 2 soonish.

Gonna try something that I picked up with Infinity models of just using zenithal priming and then glazes to move at it with hopefully a pretty good clip, but it's still a mountain of minis.

>>51275890
Fully assembled is the way to go for all but like 3 of those models. Fuck off.

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>>51286979
i just bagged up 250 orks and getting ready to either sell or trade them for marines to play/paint/carry a smaller army count, i started with an AoBR ork half i got on the cheap on eBay and within 30 days i was at 250 orks.

I am not a clever man.

I think what >>51287074 is saying is 100% true, but at the same time it also comes with other variables, it's all well and good to paint here and there and it is amazingly zen to do so, but when you're trying to get a force on the table to play with friends and you don't want to spend 6 months doing so and also don't want them to look like garbage i can relate to why it starts to feel more and more like a chore.

I think the biggest problem with backlogs is if it looks like you can't see the light at the end of the tunnel it becomes harder and harder to get motivated. i know in my experience i've just bagged up my orks because i've learned that my free time + backlog will result in a project that will never be completed, and it really killed my buzz to paint even though i love the aesthetic of orks.

I plan to sell/trade the orks and put them towards a marines army, but i'm going bit by bit, i'm getting one kit at a time, fully painting it, and then getting another kit as to keep on top of my backlog, giving myself a clean slate. A good friend of mine saw my dismay at Orks and gave me 10 tac marines, 5 termies and a dreadnaught, which is more than i wanted to start with but i won't be buying a single model until i have all 16 of those painted, once they're done i'll be looking into other kits to compliment a 1250pt force.

Sometimes a clean slate is the best way to gain motivation because i just spent countless enjoyable hours over the last 2 days working on marines because i know 16 models is an easy goal compared to 250, and when those 16 are done my next goal will likely be another 10

Just some food for thought, not telling you how to live your life

>>51287074
>>51287342

Pretty sound advice there anons. I think my problem has been that with the sheer amount of models I often don't know even where to start.

Gonna set up some goals like a small Kill Team and just work on that and ignore all the other minis for the time being.

Working on an army for 40k, AoS and warbands for Mordheim and Kill Team at the same time is just going to kill me or at least my motivation.

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So last thread an anon posted his conversion Wordbearer Termies. I'm interested in his colour scheme. Hopefully he sees this so i can ask some questions!

Is super gluing normal-sized guys onto a painted base without having their soles painted stable enough of a bond for the most part when the entire base is also protected by varnish?

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no battle damage (probably not given the fluff behind my army), chipped paint layer + exposed metal in the centre battle damage (time consuming) or going berserk with a sponge battle damage (can look tacky if you don't think about how the damage would have occured)?

i'm tending towards the middle one but it's a hard descision to make because once it's on i've got to do it to the whole army

>>51287853
maybe. i find that even if i prime dudes with the base, a drop can sepperate them.

also the whole squad. sorry photography will not get better until I buy a better camera.

>>51286500
this looks amazing for the first go, smooth red tone. whole thing has this gritty texture though, how did you prime it?
also the base could use some of gw's mud crack paint

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>>51287911
whoops

Where can I get a lot of servo arm bits to mount on bikes?

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>>51280505
I decided to power through and finish him. The grainy texture isn't even noticeable unless you're six inches or less away. Probably one of my better efforts overall I'd say.

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Finally getting something done instead of just shitposting on /tg/. Working on my Skitaari Kill-Team, need to go over everything for the details and apply transfers and do bases but at least now I can play.

>>51288147
Looks great, not worth stripping at all.

For next time I suggest lightening thd flesh and green bits slightly so it pops a little more

>>51285929
Gesso.

>>51286654
aliexpress or ebay

>>51288408
Thanks, already ordered like 250 bases of different sizes from aliexpress like 2 hours ago.
Cost like $25

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>>51274151
I'm making a knight.
I am not good at making knights, apparently.

>>51288449
Would've gone for an off-white instead of Scar White. Palod Wych Flesh is really good for large surfaces in my experience.

whats the best primer for a standard color scheme skitarii army?

>>51288634

Black or brown.

>>51288643
Is there even ever a situation where some kind of black primer is not alright to use for a color scheme?

Even on white minis I've had perfectly good sucess with the standard Imperial Primer. What's the consensus on that thing anyway? Tried it out for priming with brush during winter when I can't spray and I'm actually very positively surprised, apart from how easily it scratches off, which isn't really a huge problem though.

>>51287877
The one on the right looks the best so if you're going to do it might as well go all the way. As an aside though that blue looks out of place.

>>51288670
>apart from how easily it scratches off, which isn't really a huge problem though
Not doing that is literally the only job of primer.

>>51288913
Never had any paint chip in any way with it so far, only that it scratched off if I kept grabbing certain parts of the mini over and over and over again, like a sword I used to hold the mini or something of the sort.

>>51288670

Any color scheme can be achieved with black or white primer. It only shaves off a few steps from the painting process if you prime towards your color scheme.

How do I make a decent "broken street" base for my Greyfax? And can I do without pinning her to it if I first glue her on, then paint the base? Her high-heels are so fucking small that I really don't want to risk drilling into it, much less so since I couldn't keep myself from painting her already.

>>51289006
Something I saw someone do was take tiny balls of greenstuff, push it onto a models feet then apply the model to the base. Then take the model off, hopefully leaving the greenstuff behind. That way you get a footprint area to attack the model later on but you can texture and paint the base.

Does Army painter spray primer have a use by date? I have had it a while. On the bottom it has 29/06/2014 printed in it. But I am wondering if that was when it was manufactured.

It feels heavy and still shakes a nice tune. Thoughts and advice?

>>51289034
That does sound like a really solid idea for soft ground bases and definitely something I'll end up using at some point, though I'm not sure if it works too well for an even-ground base like a street.

If I can't find a good solution, I guess I'll see if I can to something fancy with that.

>>51289006
Use cork on the base. You can make it as broken as you like and easily paint it like asphalt.

If you haven't cut her off the sprue yet, don't cut the runners off at her feet. Cut the runners off at the actual sprue and that will give you effectively little pins you can stick into the cork.

>>51289063
Unfortunately she's already full cut off the sprue, assembled and painted since I really was starved of pretty units to paint and wanted to get to painting the Triumvirate ASAP without thinking about actually basing them, too. Will need to find a decent way to give Celestine a stable base to keep her in the air as well, though I might get away with just making sure the purity seals are well-glued to her skirt and add some wire to them as support or something like that that doesn't require me to mess with her actual body.

>>51285929
Vallejo brush primer.

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>look for tutorials for an effect you want
>find a video that looks like exactly what you want from the thumbnail
>starts playing
>guy talking over the video is putting on a retarded roleplaying voice

>>51289171
Stumbled over that too. Fuck that guy.

>>51289171
link plox

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hey wip, how would i do draped tarps? i saw they had em in white dwarf on some tournament boards, too. i'd want something pretty rigid and durable for wargame use. any tips?

How do you deal with the fact that the chimera looks like dog shit.

>>51289343
Use the same techniques in this tutorial:

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/286080-tutorial-capes-made-from-tissue/

I also had a little success with using plain, unscented baby wipes, tearing them into thin sheets and soaking them in PVA as they look more like thick fabric in scale than tissue paper.

>>51289371
If you google chimera conversion you'll find a zillion conversions with the turret set further back that look good.

>>51289390
cool, thanks

>>51286538
anyone?

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>>51286538
i used it on the armour

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>>51290065
tfw i see rainbows and immediately think of homosexuals.

>>51290065
>spend ~$100 on a box of models
>don't even clean the sprue nubs off
I don't understand

>>51290065
>>51290079
Pretty sure that's the point. To make it look as LGB as possible. It's not extremely well made, but it made me chuckle.

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>>51290079

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>>51290065

>>51279606
Thin the black and wtf is that white shit all over your models?

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>>51280470
Im crashing this thread with no survivors

>>51285209
Congrats! You've already painted 1/15th of the chapter!

>>51285392
looks pretty good but whats up with that far left pose?

I might be asking a dumb question, but I have 0 experience in painting or applying prime. How bad will it smell if I prime with spray indoors and for how long it'll last? Since priming outside is a no-no during winter, I figured I could put a model in an opened cardboard not to get prime paint on floor or walls. I have an entrance room into my flat where bike, ladder, shovels and other stuff is held, so I could prime there, but I would rather not turn floor there into a mess.

Actually if you spray priming paint at the height of standing adult human, will it stick to floor or dry on the way down? In there it is close to moderate room temperature. I wanted to do it like in this video, 7:20

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WKmmY5IBJBA

>>51289817
That thousand yard stare
>B-Brothers d-do you remember Prospero?

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>>51290065
I have immense contempt for this because I know while I was waiting for it to come back in stock some faggot was painting it like a cunt. Fucking fags.

>>51290318
You might die.

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>>51290372

>>51290399
>implying your paint job wouldn't be just as shitty anyway

>>51290399
But you have it, dumb frogposter. Live and let live. It's not like it's limited model.

I'm new. Will a normal size can (400 ml) be enough for all the minis in Dark Vengeance?

>>51290525
should be enough

>>51290525
Chaos black that is

>>51290525
just don't be wasteful.

What parts should i use to make a female inquisitor? Thinking about eldar or dark eldar kitbash? or should i wait and make a greyfax and celestine mix?

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>>51290065

>>51290457
Kek, fuck off it's pretty easy to paint in the lines unless you've got assburgers

>>51290106
>extremely well made
>thick, uneven coats
>sloppy application
>zero blending

>>51289817
It always confuses me why the MkIII vambraces are so that when you hold the bolter, all the extra armour on your left arm is pointing down, giving you no protection from incoming fire.

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>>51290495
This insults me on a personal level, don't talk to me or my frogs ever again.

I don't have access to a gard or balcony is a bathroom ok for using primer?

>>51290596
>not extremely well made

Can you fucking read?

>>51290318
Don't spray inside.

>>51290548
Don't buy GW sprays. For the price of one can you can get multiple cans of something like Rustoleum. You could inhale multiple cans and still come out ahead.

>when i basecoat 50 ork boys at once
https://youtu.be/0SL_W-83AW4?list=PL7XlqX4npddfrdpMCxBnNZXg2GFll7t5y

Not a fan of the new Celestine model. I have the old one, but haven't painted it yet.

>>51290318
>that video
Man, I never spend that much time and primer on a single mini

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pls leave duncan alone

>>51287933
Geology/10, would core sample that stratification.

>>51290666
Can't find that brand on Wayland Games. Is army painter alright? I also got all the GW paints, should I change them for army painter as well? Seems to be the cheapest.

>>51291101
https://www.rustoleum.com/

>>51291035
That's actually amazing. I didn't even know you could make custom icons like that.

>>51291101
I've seen Rustoleum sprays at my local Wilco, so you may have some luck with yours.

>>51291186
Twitch channels can, so I'm guessing whoever does IT at GW snuck it in there along with all the other icons subscribers get.

>>51291101
>Can't find that brand on Wayland Games.
It's not a wargaming specific brand. It's something you can get from any hardware store. I can't vouch for regular AP colours because I haven't used them, but their washes are great and definitely better value than the GW ones.

>>51291202
Cheeky bastard. I love it.

>>51289343
Have you considered plaster wrap?

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Got the next chunk of my Malifaux stuff assembled and after I do some more gap filling it's on to painting.
I'm not really sure what sort of colours I want on these guys though, leaning towards muted dark blue and having the big one be a lot paler. If that doesn't work then I guess everything's going green.

>>51285929
I've got no experience with gesso priming, but I do know that Liquitex basics probably wouldn't be my first choice to try; it's their student line. Their Basics paints are really coarsely ground, I suspect the gesso from that line is equally chunky.

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just got some dudes down tried my hand at blending red on armor

c&c?

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Does terrain count? It even has LED lighting.

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>>51277789
>>51283707
>>51285786

>not using the DOT3 break fluid

All you faggots disgust me.

Does anyone have any good tutorials or tips for painting really bright, almost cartoonish models. My current plan is to prime white, use bright colours and then gloss and wash, to try and blackline simply. That sound like a solid plan or is there a better way?

>>51291445
The guy up the back desperately need an anglerfish lure added.

>>51291561
>big gay ork's big gay mountain home

>>51291565
>not using IPA and an ultrasonic bath

>>51290094
this guy gets it.

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Hey, guys, I'm back. I did a lot more work on the Trygon, and now I have pictures from multiple angles for once. :o What do you guys think? Does the color scheme work decently well?

>>51291532
The one I was just looking at was Professional, as that was one of the few I could find that was black. I was wondering what the difference was between the two lines as well

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>>51291943
Side view

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>>51291959
Aaaaaaaand from the back.

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>>51291943
>>51291959
>>51291982
Jesus fucking Christ

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>>51290065
THIN
YOUR
PAINTS
CLEAN
YOUR
MOLDLINES
AND
SPRUENUBS
AND YOUR DEGENERACY
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE also the coats are messy as fuck

>>51291943
>>51291959
>>51291982

Looking good but there is still lots of room for improvement. The very next thing you should do is use a wash/shade/ink (whatever they call it now) on your entire model. This will really help go a long way to bring out the detail and make it less mono-colored like a house.

Next you just gotta practice a steadier hand when painting those highlights. They should be thinner, perhaps you just need a smaller paint brush?

Next I would very much recommend a different color for the teath, use a light bone color that doesnt clash so hard with your other colors and highlight it with white, rather than having them solid white.

And finally you have so much red on your model already, I would strongly suggest picking a different color for the eyes. You want those to stand out not blend in.

>>51291943
>>51291959
>>51291982


Take better pictures first. No one can see shit.

White backdrop is ok. You need more light and no flash, also resize those pictures.
Nobody is going to look at that model from that distance, not on display, not in a game.

Retake pics, get c&c.

>>51290604
well if you could properly model them aiming, and consider that space mangs are taller than their opponents most of the time it would be in the right spot i think.

>>51292159
>consider that space mangs are taller than their opponents most of the time it would be in the right spot i think.

How tiny targets and from how close do you think the Marines are firing at? And if they aim at these targets, then the same piece of armour should be facing them, no matter how high or low.

>>51291445
These are fucking cute.

It might be an usual, but may I suggest something more colorful? Tropical fish has some really awesome color patterns. Might not make them blend in well in a swamp, ut it would make them look extra dangerous.

>>51292278
hmm i suppose you are right.

Is it acceptable to drybursh highlights on Ork/gretchin skin to get them up to tabletop standard? In theory I feel like it would give them a more sinewy look, but I'm not sure about it in practice.

>>51293380
Everything goes. But remember drybrushing gives you hard contrasts in general, so don't overdo it on the highlight color and pick one similar to base color.

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>>51283354
thanks for the tip! i've only used gesso on plastic minis. i guess i'll wait for the summer to paint my dark sword minis; i don't want to ruin these babies.

Can one airbrush a wash?

>>51293490
sure.

>>51290065
that's probably the most raw artistic talent I've seen in a model. That subtle blending on the face and the stark contrast between colours and darker areas is supreme.

>>51293476
Is there a guide to skin highlighting for fags like me who are scared to overdo it and are stuck in a base coat + wash limbo?

>>51287933
>>51287877
These look pretty cool, what are the bases from? Self-made or bought from somewhere?

>>51293622
i think they are sprue.

>>51293490
Not sure why you'd want to, you'll end up wasting some and washes go on very quickly anyway.

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>>51283707
>>51285676
>>51285786
>>51291565
I can't help but think these things will create delicious mustard gas or grow crystals or something due to the way they're worded. I'm unsure which of these (past simple green) would actually work and not corrode my lungs.

>>51293618
Google.

If you are ork anon:
Go ahead pick your ork green after wash and do a slight brush on the arms. Sometimes the base color is enough, sometimes not. Just mix your green with a light brown after that, just a tad, and redo the arm until you see desired results. Grots tend to have brown highlights in their face.

>>51291571
Washing after doing your highlights might dull things down if you're going for a super bright look unless you're very careful about getting it only in the recesses. Other than that, stick with bold colors and layer up to an extreme highlight.

>>51293689
Yeah I'm the Ork one. Is this dry brushing?

>>51291571

Start with black and keep more than just the recesses black.
For bigger areas get a solid and dark base color that still contrasts the black, then wash, then apply a strong highlight to that area.

This way you end up with a cellshadey look.

>>51293710
Drybrushing is pick up undiluted paint in your brush, then removing 99% of it in a tissue, then repeatedly brushing higher surfaces and edges on the mini so the last 1% stick there and not on surfaces.
Don't use water.

>>51293703

Yeah, the plan was to finish a model then gloss varnish it, then use either one of the GW gloss washes or an oil wash to get something that only goes in the recesses and doesn't stain the colour they go over. I might give it a try on a few practice models and see how it turns out.

>>51293730
Thanks for the advice. I'm not really trying for a cellshaded look, more a highly-saturated 'unreal' effect. Like SavageOrkAnon from a while back, it may simply be a case of using the brightest colours I can find.

>>51290065
What the fuck is your problem?

>>51293710
Theres also another quick and dirty method to rush a few boys. Prime white, get your green, dilute the fuck out of it so it doesn't cover fully and you can see a lot of the white through the green, apply wash, done.

>>51293618
I found using GW's layer system works well. The epiphany I had though was not going straight from paint to paint. Instead do 100 percent coverage with your basecoat. Mix the basecoat color with the next layer paint 50/50 and do about 75 percent coverage. Move to only layer paint and about 50 percent coverage. You could stop there or keep going if you like. Then apply your favorite wash and do a bit of highlighting with the last paint you used. I painted the Catachan earlier in the thread using that technique. I did Bugman's Glow, Bugman's Glow/Cadian Flesh, Cadian Flesh, Reikland Flesh Wash, one last highlight of Cadian Flesh when it dried.

>>51293784
The bigger the contrast, the better the saturation for higher surfaces. If I remember correctly those orks had a very proper blacklining done.

>>51293746
>>51293804
Alright neat, thanks for the tips

>>51293618
There are plenty in the op, but here's a video. Just get brave.
https://youtu.be/i-rsH9wdaVg

Does anyone have any first hand experience kit bashing dark eldar and dark elf kits? Im thinking about smashing some Black ark corsairs with my Kabalite warriors to make some trueborn.

>>51293808
>>51288147

You would really benefit from going up to kislev or even pallid wych for an edging step, you're putting a lot of effort in for a smooth transition but it gets lost. Push that contrast.

>>51294192
don't have first hand experience bashing them, but the corsairs have a pretty similar balljoint on the hip. looks like they should be pretty much compatible or at the very least easy to convert.

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Veridyan - she was kind of a pain in the ass. Felt like her details were too fine and small compared to other GW stuff, like it was a 3rd party mini or something.

>>51293784
https://www.instagram.com/savage_ork_guy/

Push your contrasts, use really saturated colours and git real gud.