WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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I'm currently chopping up a tiny plasticard rod and dotting the tiny circles all over my ork vehicles.

I find it absolutely riveting.

>>51125756
Fuck you, Carlos.

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>>51123929
Sorry for getting back so late.

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>>51125826
sorry i dont have a better picture, but you can pretty much spray prime the whole thing silver and then just do panels, and save a hell of a lot of time.

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>>51125872
>>51125826
>>51125756
Guessing it's an Orky time of day.

>>51125910
>periscope

i love it

>>51125872
The only silver primer I've used came out way too thick. No adverse weather, can wasn't old, etc.
I'd rather start from white primer

Plan is an all over black wash, and then heavy drybrushing of Leadbelcher or Oily Steel if I have enough in my bottle. Then a lot of red across everything. When it is done, I'll post it in here. Unless something stupid comes up, probably within a week of now.

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I know that at least 2 anons are making a collage of the ss gifts. I never saw my guy opening my gift so can you post the collage to see if he ever posted it?

>>51125944
Sec, I'll just dump an album, too many pics for a collage

>>51125970
>>51125944
http://imgur.com/a/thgVW

>>51125994
Oh, he posted it. I hope he liked it. Thank you anon.

>>51126023
You're welcome.

Yeah, hope (and think) I got every picture posted, hard to tell!

Any people still missing their gifts (either their own or the ones they sent not being posted) ?

Can anybody recommend a Warboss-sized axe I can use to finish my conversion? I could use the big choppas from the nob box but I'd like the boss to standout a bit more. Maybe a chaos daemons axe would be appropriate?

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>>51108297
>Noice how did you paint them ?
Sorry, I was at work

Anyway these are the colours:

>Prime White
>Pallid Wych Flesh for the skin
>Then I use a custom wash, originally made from Daemonette Hide. I then improved this by mixing Druchii Violet and Pale Grey Wash by Vallejo to make the same colour but with a better behaviour.
>Then I go back to Pallid Wych Flesh, but this is actually the very last thing I do, so I correct the mistakes I made with the other parts in a single passage.
If I had to do all over again, I would probably base with Rakarth Flesh, but now I have all my army like this

Robes and tentacles are
>Base with Army Painter's Alien Purple (basically Xereus Purple)
>Nuln oil
>Layer with a mix of purple and white (I'll use Genestealer purple in the future)
>Highlight (or drybrush, it depends) with Dechala Lilac
Claws are the same but without the layer. I really like the contrast the Dechala Lilac do with the darkened purple.
Hair on plastic daemonettes don't have the Genestealer purple too.

Gold
>Army Painter's Greedy Gold
>Agrax Earthshade
That's it. I don't do layers nor highlight because I have so much gold I fear it would become too much. And because I'm lazy.

Metal is
>Iron Breaker
>Nuln Oil
>Stormhost silver as highlight (or layer for the cutting part of the blade)
I'm not satisfied with this right now. Even when darkened, the difference between the two metals is barely noticeable.

Rocks are
>Administratum grey
>Agrax earthshade
>Drybrush with white

In the end, it's all quite simple.
I'm a relatively new and inexperienced painter.
The only special thing is the Dechala Lilac, which rare since it's a Webstore only colour.
I can't stress how good of a colour that is. I absolutely love it.

>>51126161
You can stick the buzzsaw from the killa kan kit on a big choppa for a ded killy one, s'what i did for my 'eadwhoppas killchoppa/axe of the ragnarork

>I hope these questions haven't been answered in OP links

Seeing as I live in the midwest and it's too fucking cold/rainy/snowy to spray paint outside, how do I prime models in my tiny apartment? My windows don't open.

Any brush/paint recommendations that I can pickup at say, Hobby Lobby? Basically I just want to avoid brush packs with sizes I'll never use and double down on sizes I'll use most often.

The last time I tried painting, I wound up varnishing about 100 chaos spess mahreens. I'd like to do things properly this time around, if only because I need to git gud for cheesecake at the end of summer.

>>51126222
there's that brush on shit painter use for texture..
gesso

Take awhile to harden but totally non toxic for indoor use.

>>51126220
Neat, that's exactly what I'm trying to model too. Thanks for the tip

>>51126047
Mind's still not been posted to me last I heard, I'm just relieved I got some form of feedback so my paranoia of thieving mail room workers and neighbors could be eased a bit.

Not sure if it's the right thread to ask but do tanks usually have the pintle mg mounted when not in use?

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>>51126216
I forgot

Bone/Horns
>Ubshabti Bone
>Agrax Earthshade
And that's it. Super-lazy. I made the wash stronger on some parts to give some kind of gradient, but that's really all there is to it.

Gems and tongues on steeds.
Gems suck this way, but anyway is
>Army Painter's Hydra Turquoise
>Drakenhop Nightshade
That's it too.

>>51126278
Also not in the album?
>>51125994
http://imgur.com/a/thgVW

>>51126353
It still tickles me that someone got the ECH issue of WD

My citadel paints dry up in their bottles and turn chunky, and my Vallejo paints just come out as a clear, lemon-smelling liquid no matter how much I shake and mix. What brand of paint should I get that actually works?

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Leaked image of the new mk. V power armour types

>>51126536
>My citadel paints dry up in their bottles and turn chunky
With GW pots you have to keep the lids clean otherwise they don't close airtight anymore. The pots aren't great to begin with though.
>and my Vallejo paints just come out as a clear, lemon-smelling liquid no matter how much I shake and mix.
This sounds like you just didn't shake and mix enough.
Try putting an agitator into the bottle. I find that rolling the bottles is somewhat more efficient at getting the settled pigment from the bottom than shaking it like a madman.

>brand of paint should I get that actually works?
Both of the above do actually work for most other hobbyists. However you can try getting some P3 or Coat d'Arms paints and see if you like the bottles/paint better.
Coat d'Arms used to be GW's old manufactuer. They still have the old, old, old snap on lids that the GW bottles used to have iirc. Those are really good at keeping your paints from drying out.

Before you buy anything else try rolling the Vallejo bottles or putting an agitator in them. With a little luck you don't have to buy new paints.

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Slowly getting through my first 5 of 30 tacticals for my IW, apart for the yellow the metal thankfully goes very quickly. Brush priming suuuuucks though.

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Reposting from the last thread.

Any tips on painting the green blades of the overlords?

>>51126788
Sorry for the filesize, phone posting :(

So guys, I'm wanting to paint the arms on my Neophyte Hybrid Squad separately, cus the idea of trying to paint it all together at once and paint the gun without messing up the chest armor sounds like a nightmare. How would I go about doing this when spray priming? I've got the torso and legs glued together obviously, but how do I spray prime the arms? Like with sticky tack to hold it up?

>>51126740
>This sounds like you just didn't shake and mix enough.

I swear, it still doesn't mix even after like five minutes of shaking.

>>51125994
>http://imgur.com/a/thgVW
not a single dragon dildo

soo for whatever reason GW decided to refund my money on my Made to Order Chaplain on a bike I placed back in December, anyone else have this happen? did they decide not to make the cast?

>>51125944

I never received my SS gift so heyo

>>51126823
I'd imagine with the sticky tac, use a marker to hold them in place. Or a thin stick of some sort.

>>51126788
How a scheme so simple can be so sexy

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Got my test NL more or less finished. Rather pleased with how it turned out, though I need to work on a few things.

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>kit of 3 models
>all can take disc
>only one disc

Anybody got any tips on scratchbuilding some discs for the other two?

>>51127375
The model itself is pretty nice, the highlights could stand to be a bit thinner and sharper but that's something you'll get better at with practice.
I don't like the base, it just looks plain, it being raised up doesn't really help.
Also if you're going for blood splatter get some Blood for the Blood God, it'll look less like splotches of red paint

>>51127375
Looks good, but ate you planning on putting lightning on everything? I don't know if I could do that to 50+ rank & file without going nuts.

>>51126353
As it's not arrived I haven't been able to post pictures. The one I sent however is in the album, though scattered throughout.

>>51126594
Mark II is one hell of a drug

>That moment when you find a piece you thought lost to the Grey Carpet weeks ago

Im so happy

>>51126800
Have you watched the WarhammerTV tutorial for Overlords? He covers it.

>>51127375
Good start. I'd try to neaten up some of those edge highlights though. Especially the kneepad.

>>51127387
>Anybody got any tips on scratchbuilding some discs for the other two?
Dunno.
Guess I'd try to find something disk shaped and use that. Like a lego satellite dish or something like that.
If you got the one from the kit you could also try pressmoulding it though. It's just about the most simple shape you could ask for when casting something, the only thing you have to look out for it to get all the moulded detail.

Next best thing would probably be using a screamer, as disks are just screamers that look different basically, or...though this is a bit of a longer shot, try to look into resin bases. Maybe there is something you can use. I know there are a few with mayan inscriptions and stuff for lizardmen, if you painted those in metal colors, after sanding off the beveled edge under the sculpted parts they could do the trick and be in keeping with the tzeentchian theme too.

>>51127473
>grey carpet
rreeeEEEEEEEEE

>>51125872
>Dinky little cacti
How cute

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Can I get some feedback on this leather? Anything I should be doing to change it or make it better?

>>51127964
What models are these?

>>51128010
2nd Edition Warzone Imperial Militia.

>>51127483
I have not, I'll have a look, thanks anon

>>51127964
Two layers of thin paint.
One is clearly not enough.

And if those are already 2 layers, then you watered it down too much.

You need a solid colour before moving on.

>>51128113
It was based black, with a wood brown over that and a leather brown over that. I thought it looked like worn leather, but I wanted to know what others thought.
So you think I should double down on one of the layers?

>>51127964
Paint on the colours with a brush, instead of mixing them into your bulldog's food and then having him just slobber all over the minis.

>>51127964
The leather looks okayish, I feel like it could do with a wash to bring it together a bit maybe. I don't know how it's so splotchy. Also, did your prime your mini? You've got lots of spots where the paints coming off. Regardless of primer or not you need to be more careful with your mini's toes.

>>51128161
Nice. Classy.

>>51128162
Yep, see >>51128136
I'm still learning, so I know I need to improve. And I have rather bad eyesight.

>>51128136
I see.

Try this way.
Make a full strong brown as a base. Forget about the black.
Then Agrax earthshade.
Then drybrush with a lighter colour, focus on the borders.

You may highlight if you want.

>>51125944
>>51125994

So many great and wonderful gifts, some people were so incredibly generous and those less able to be were inventive and still delighted the recipient.

The one ss that turned up for some poor anon which was so rubbish i offered to send the guy a $10 gift voucher to GW , but didn't respond to my message isn't in the collage which is probably a good thing.

>>51128324
Alright thanks anon, I'll be trying that next time. Appreciate it.

>>51126353

Whoever sent that Green Johnny is a great painter and really generous!

>>51127509
I know, i was so bummed to lose the piece. I dont have greenstuff so my conversions are superfine razor knife stuff and liquid greenstuff, i really didnt want to make another.

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Getting back into the Hobbit SBG or as all non faggots call it Battle Games in Middle Earth SBG.

I am making an Uruk force out of models I already own. I am stripping them and putting them on 2 pence piece with the plastic GW skirts stand turned upside down with the edges trimmed to hold them in place. I then put modelling putty on top to give it an uneaven layer. I am going to sand it with fine sand, then add larger lumps for variety.

I am going to paint them xanthoric white, I want to play them as barbarian primordial men who hate the civilised world beyond their protective walls.

My warband is 200 points and consists of

Lurtz
4 Uruk scouts with shields
4 Uruk scouts with hand weapons
4 Uruk scouts with bows
3 feral Uruks

It is the only game that maintains some innocence for me. WHFB is dead, 40k is a power creep le epic baby's toy knights etc ruined the fucking scale and aesthetic.

SBG can be played with a single box. A lot of us have them from when it was £12 for 24 models and collected the magazines. A nice scale fun game to enjoy.

>>51128365
I think the Johnny came unpainted and the recipient painted it but yeah... >respect-knuckles.jpg

>>51128712
Thanks for the blog m8. Look into plumber's putty for a cheaper alternative to green stuff for those bases, it will do the same job at a fraction of the price.

>>51128950
I buy 72" from troll trader for £10 fuck GW.

>>51128712
>It is the only game that maintains some innocence for me.
>>51128970
>fuck GW.
Dunno man.

Why don't you play something else then?
I mean these days GW isn't the only company doing fantasy and sci-fi games.

you could check /awg/ or /hwg/ out.

>>51128712
the rules for LoTR were fantastic (and that damn magazine) until that regiment nonsense with the round base trays. The whole fun of the game was little scenarios that didn't take 4 hours and it fit everyone since some liked heroes and others like hordes.

WHFB isn't dead though, plenty still playing and most AoS players would happily play it as well. 40k has always been power creep but that doesn't change the fact that it is the most diverse game it has ever been especially if playing with intermediate lists.

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I've read a lot of people use this stuff to strip their minis.
They don't sell it in the UK, so any UKbros know something similar?

>>51129323
"How to strip" gets asked all the fucking time in basically every forum that has ever discussed miniatures painting. Just fucking google it.

Acetone

>>51129323
Detol
e
t
o
l

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Now painted. This is the first paint I've done, and I messed up a bit on the corners (rubbed it off) and while doing a wash, but eh, can't get it perfect the first time. Red one is the master for the small tile; not very happy with how it turned out.

>>51129323
>>51129323
>>51129323
>>51129348
>>51129348
>>51129348
DON'T USE ACETONE, THAT SHIT MELTS PLASTIC AND WILL RUIN YOUR FIGURES

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>>51124022
>>51129386

>>51129401
it's great for metals though.

>>51129323
We have a sticky for this.

>>51129348
Just because we have a sticky for this doesn't mean you're not being a dick. Stop being a dick.

>>51129369
I've always had the impression it was the alcohol in the dettol doing the job; does it work better than something like strong (90%) rubbing alcohol?

>>51129386
Like basically every other beginner ever it's a blandly not good that might improve with plenty of practice.

>>51129448
I know, but I figured I might as well post in case someone wants to give me tips. I've thinned my paints, tried to apply layers, but it still looks flat. I'm sure I'll get better with time.

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>>51129323
I use this.

SO i got this box full of Scrap, base detail parts and some Styrene H-columns. I already have a whole bunch of urban terrain and now i want to make some rubble/dirt/debris barricades that can block streets that are usually 5" wide so that they are completely or 2/3 blocked.

has anyone made something similar or do you have sources to inspiration?

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>>51129648
pic related

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>>51129648
some toy cars from the dollar store are good to use as conversion fodder for urban scatter terrain

>>51127387
honestly i feel like a disc of that variety would be easy to make. you can just take a circular base, add greenstuff to create the shape, and then cut up some sword/dagger bits to create the stuff around the edges.

the patterning on the top could just be etched into the drying greenstuff with a small tool. the smooshy shit underneath could also just be sculpted from greenstuff around some wires for stability

>>51129864
i like it, the muted grey and rust scheme you did will help them seem unified when on the battlefield and prevent them from overpowering the miniatures and being visually distracting.

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aaaarrg help me /tg/

I have been stuck on this for weeks, I just can't figure out what colors to use for the weapons, some color-theory-smart anon can help me?

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>>51130019
it's not mine, just pulled it out of my inspiration folder.

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>>51129648
Those I beams need to be turned into Czech hedgehogs. 3 of those on a base with some scrap leaned on them for barricades would probably be cool and quick.

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building/painting some krieg and i was wondering if i would be able to get away with using some scion pieces - this fist mainly

think it looks too weird?

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How do I get a better blend on my colors? I'm thinning my paints, but they still come out as stripes rather than blends. Then I tried REALLY thinning out one of the colors and applying it back over, but that just made more stripes.

Also I cannot into lightning effects lmao

>>51129864
itll be a bit hard since i only play wh40k but that terrain does look really good!

>>51130504
Thats a good idea!

>>51130151
bright silver?

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>>51126222
Pic related is perfect for both brush and airbrush priming.

Just shake it well and apply two thin coats to be sure if you fo it by brush.

>>51127420
>>51127496

Yea, the Highlights are something I really need to work on, though it could be due to my sub par brushes. Both probably.

As for the base, it was my first time doing anything besides static grass. I might get some of the BFtBG tech paint next time I'm at my shop and run it through the larger cracks. I could maybe break up some Styrofoam for rocks to throw on there, too.

>>51127453

I am because it wouldn't be nightlords otherwise. This'll be more of a project than an army at this point.

>>51126788
Where do the melta hand come from? I saw it several times but I don't know which kit has it.

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Finished blocking out these golds. Going to do the swords, as well as the blacks/red in a week or two.

I'm happy with how they came out.

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>>51131017
Total of 10 Custodes.

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>>51131063
>>51131017

And I kitbashed 4 Terminator Librarians.

Not attached yet is their cloaks, and some purity seals. Going to do their force axes along with the Swords.

(Overdid the silver tarnish on this ones chest a bit. It has since been corrected.)

>>51130529
Looks good to me senpai

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This is what I'm working on. What do you guys think?

>>51130151
Oh shit, that is a hard one. You cant use silver because of the armor and cant use gold because of the weird orb.
If im corret lorgar has a bronce like skin tone, if you manage to tide the skin of his face with a cold copper mace, that could work. If you are going for a helmet version you can do the same but using the base as conecting element.

or you can paint it black

>>51131269
sistersforants/10

>Tfw scared of fucking this up
>Might have already fucked it up

Do I just do everything with washes for Nurgle stuff?

>>51130897
Too much silver already, it wouldn't differentiate enough.

>>51131324
Mmm, maybe a light nmm copper could do the trick. I guess because it has a red component?
Black is out of the question too, as the cape will be mainly black.

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>>51131499

The actual model in question.

>>51130151
Just leave it black. Highlight and whatnot obviously. Will make the orb pop.

still missing mine! no word one way or the other

>>51126800
this is really nice and looks great except for the mold line on the arm

>>51128192
Seriously, get proper prescription glasses, it helps a TON when doing any fine detail work or painting.

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>>51128712
Yeah, someone suggested playing battle companies so a few of my friends and I are getting back into LotR a bit. I want to be interested in 40k again but I don't like the current direction and pricing. AoS looks particularly distasteful.

On the plus side, I am a pleb-tier wargamer but have found that it really isn't hard to make nice scenery.

>>51127056
they're pretty expensive for a joke, and it's also old and no longer particularly clever

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>>51131645
Haven't learned to get a camera and take good photos though.

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>>51131659

>>51131521
dunc has a tutorial on this model and even though he uses different colors it should give you a good idea of how to use washes and get the blends to look better. from a purely aesthetic standpoint, yeah you've fucked it up. the green and purple is so patchy and stark it totally distracts the eye and there's no obvious focal point

>>51131521
>>51131758
but also props on "the collected works", thats my favorite B&N cheapshit omnibus - and this model has a sort of "colour out of space" vibe with the scheme you've chosen

>>51131269

Thank you for resizing but you can be 2 or 3 times that size without getting abuse, can't see shit.

>>51131758
>>51131777

I got trigger happy with the purple, Should hopefully be able to "bring it back up" with enough work. It's super dark.

>>51125731
Is there any real difference between using walmart acrylics as opposed to citadel paints?

I just bought my first 40k miniatures and I afraid I'll ruin them with my poverty paints.

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Slowly getting there with these bad boys... a few hours here and there after work

>>51131758

Got a link to that tutorial, haven't been able to find it anywhere, I've tried to find one before.

>>51131943
You can probably use this for your model.

https://youtu.be/T43ULH2MYP4

>>51131943
part 1 of three

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T43ULH2MYP4

>>51128712
I still play LoTR and Battle Companies. I haven't got my guys on hand, but I play Osgiliath Veterans for the most part. I've got an Uruk Scout army too.

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>>51131911
Looking good anon, finished washes on all the orcs (plus Skaven) today.

>>51127387
you can always use screamers since discs are just transformed screamers

How do I make a single Juggernaut of Khorne without having to buy 5 Mighty Skullcrushers? eBay isn't helping.

I got some bottles of imperial primer for brush undercoating, but after two coats the stuff still scrapes right off with my fingernail. I followed Duncan's tutorial but i still don't know why it's doing this. I haven't watered it down much, and it's been stirred.

>>51132768
Imperial primer is shit, plain and simple.

Use>>51130970 instead.

>>51130529
The shoulder looks a bit too big for him.

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>>51132442

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At the tail end of the last /wip/ thread, some mate suggested I use a grey primer for painting Brets.
Anyone have a good recommendation for grey primers? Did he mean more of a "space wolves" grey (which is a bit bluish), or legit, straight grey?

>>51130151
You can do deep black iron with gold chaos runes (freehand) if you feel up for it. Would tie into the orb and the armor while being different enough

>>51130547

The only way is to either airbrush or thin it so much that when you paint it on a white surface it looks like colored water, then paint that 50 times moving slightly lower each time to get a smooth transition

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Still need to do some bases and clean some stuff up.

It's a good day to die!

>>51132442
nuln oil goes on the mini, not the camera

>>51130547
Get the two colors you want to blend and make 7 mixes: 20/80, 30/70, 40/60, 50/50, 60/40, 70/30, 80/20. Apply first color as a basecoat. Then apply each of these 7 mixes one on top of another, leaving a tiny little bit of each one visible, until you reach the other color. There you go.

>>51131887
There's a big difference. I wouldn't trust "poverty paints" on anything beyond scenery base coating.

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>>51126788

Pardon the wet varnish pools, still drying! Just a bit of clean up needed here and there.

>>51131000
It's any old melta-bomb trimmed and glued on to a closed fist from the SM Devastator sprue. Can also be done with a bolter hand if you don't happen to have that bit.

Does anyone have a picture of the vulture gunship instructions? Just got some punisher cannons but the spacer is all fucking up so i only have the bottom and the top.
Curious at which part i'm supposed to use.

>>51131887
pigment quality and pigment content are two big ones

>>51127387
Start with a small transparent flying base, like what dark eldar bikes have

Glue spikes to it, put a layer of green stuff on top and draw runes and symbols in it

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>>51133819
I did something pretty similar today.

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Homestretch. I'll just need to finish the second dracoth and work on the details a little more.
I forgot the exact color mixture used for the scales of the dracoths, so there was a lot of experimenting involved. Stupid mistake.

>>51134340
looks good to me. spray silver, or brush over black?

>>51131269
Our Lady of that time of the month

>>51133445
Doing you part/10

>>51134340
Real nice! If that's all one day I need to stop getting distracted so much at my desk. How'd you get that muted copper/bronze?

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Working on these chumps

In trying to figure out what colour to do the capes and other cloth accessories that are on the characters

Running out of blue glaze though

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What's something good to test out Oyamaru on before I blow all my green stuff on trying to make this as a base for my Dune Strider

>>51134473
https://youtu.be/QksrFJyT5A4

Try this. It's just a shame you have to buy the whole damn kit.

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finished this GoT themed knight a few months ago. Will be making the next one as soon as i have painted my spacehulk set.

Which house scheme should i paint the next one in?

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>>51134538
more pics

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>>51134566

>>51134538
Greyjoys have the coolest logo.
I think Tyrell would look cool for the next one.

>>51134494
I need to get some of that

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>>51134587
yeah i was thinking Tyrell aswell. Might also do some skiitari as household guard.

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>>51127483
Watched the video and tried to copy Duncan, it's not the best but it'll do for now.

>>51131629
Shit. I didn't even notice that one. Fortunately it's just the one colour so it shouldn't be too bad to touch up after removing it.

Finished all the little details I can be bothered with. I'll touch him up at a later date. I just wanted a decent tabletop standard army really, not investing massive amounts of time into them.

>>51134598
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Oyumaru-Modeling-Compound-Moulding-Stick-White-6-pcs-set-/381784099206?hash=item58e41b0986%3Ag%3ADNsAAOxyAs9SOTq-&_trkparms=pageci%253Aba96bbec-d78d-11e6-8be3-74dbd1807ec8%257Cparentrq%253A8abe3c4b1590a350d8ea6a47ffbd60e8%257Ciid%253A9
This is what I bought, Instant Mold is just this repackaged.

>>51134538
>>51134566
>>51134581
>>51134629
Man I love it. Lannister for regal red and gold would be good if you play BA.

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>>51134715
Im just so Tired of painting red. My Orks are evil sunss, my nids are kraken, space hulk termies are BA. No more red

>>51134789
If you're willing to do tiny bits of conversion and shit, you could go for Targaeryen, Baratheon, Clegane, or Martell. All are very distinct and have very defining traits, easily applicablz with the appropriate bits, GS and plasticard.
Depending on the type of knights you have some houses are more adapted than other. The more lithe, delicate ones would go well with Targaryen and Martell (robes, tabards, engravings, that sort of shit), while the biggest, blockiest ones would go hand in hand with Clegane or Baratheon (additional armour, brutal looking weapons, etc).

>>51134340
Now to the stripes section brothers!

>>51130151
bronze and/or rose gold.

>>51131887

Cheap paints are shit. You don't need GW paints but you need the pricier paints like those from Vallejo, Reaper, Army Painter, Privateer Press, etc.

>>51135019
I tried using some craft store acrylics for doing terrain, and jesus fuck, it ruined it

>>51134789
I know it might be a bit vague, and idk if we are talking books or HBO special but you could always go with something NOT in Westeros for the theme, maybe do one with Harpy iconography and whips for a weapon, or some other not-so-recognized side faction

So I'm just starting out in 40k and don't really know much lore at all, but the Astra Militarum look cool as fuck. Are they fun to paint/play as?

>>51135291
fun to paint, easy too. very standard in terms of weapons/clothes/vehicles for painting.
playing as them you can have great big convoys of kickass tanks, or big blobs of expendable infantry russia-style, or any mix of in between. theyre pretty great.
but please, call them imperial guard or everyone will make fun of you.

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I'm still undecided on the skirt, think I should just paint the whole thing brown like the branches or stick with the green so there's a little more colour on the model?

>>51135291

Yeah but they're not good at missions other than secure one objective or kill every single enemy. You either play them with tons of artillery, tanks, and men, or you play them as inferior marines with a few elite troopers in transports.

>>51135335
Alright noted.

>>51135335
>russia style.
Stop memeing at me.

>>51135338

It looks better right now with the green. You'd need to do something like paint the vest a different brown or green if both the thorns and the dress are brown since the whole model will just be monotone.

>>51135338
I'm tempted to say 'yes': you could blend your brown into new growth green at the edges of each skirt layer and I think that would look really cool.

>>51135291
yes, the only downside is you have to paint a lot of things for an army

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Dear anons - what is the quickest way to paint / fastest colour scheme for space marines, I just want to paint up a tabletop worthy army and I have very little time in which to do so...

>>51135540
pick whatever you like, get one of the army painter spray primers.
I'd say avoid anything yellow or white though.

>>51135540
Do you have an airbrush? If not, buy a black primer, spray muhreens, do rims and lenses and voila, you have some shitty RG.

>>51135540
>I just want to paint up a tabletop worthy army and I have very little time
spray with coloured primer
paint trim/webbing/eyes/details a solid colour
use a nuln oil wash on the crevices

Not exactly the nicest looking army, but tabletop ready. Could probably do an entire army in a weekend.

>>51135540

Colored spray primer, paint the chest eagles and bolters, slap a wash on them.

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hows my krieg /wip/?

>>51134147
What do you mean by pigment content?

>>51135856
blurry

>>51135876

There is more pigment in the expensive paints, that is why they cost more. Think of it like alcohol. You can drink piss weak 1% alcohol or you can drink 99% everclear.

>>51135856
Too jaypeg too tell how its going.

>>51134374
Armypainter Gunmetal airbrushed over black primer.

>>51134429
All of that took me roughly 4.5 hours not including the black primer, since I primed them last week, but I had tunnel vision and went straight through only taking time to have a coffee/smoke, when the wash was drying.

The bronze is done this way:
Balthasar Gold, then wash Agrax Earthshade, drybrush/highlight with Runefang Steel.

>>51134926
That's the next step, but I'm gonna go for random single sections of the models to have a more natural look as if the plastic dudes modified their armour themself, to make it look more "natural".

>>51135019
>>51135215
Well that's terrifying. I guess I'm going to have to save up for some good paints. I never would've thought there would be such a big difference.

Always assumed "expensive paints" were a scam.

>>51135876
http://knowledge.ulprospector.com/832/pc-pigment-volume-concentration-1/

>>51136123
i think it's just miniature-specific paints have a much finer size of pigment, standard acrylics are made for just mashing straight on canvas, but with mini paint you need it thin enough to not obscure a half-a-milimeter rivet on armour, so it has to be pretty damn fine to do it's job.

citadel are a bit more expensive than most, but definitely get hobby/tabletop paints.

>>51135019
+1 reccomendation for Army Painter paints...I really like them so far. I'm not a fan of the tube paints, cause I feel like I waste more than I do with pots...but I give army painter a pass. Good quality, and smooth applications. They have me for life.

>>51136123
>Always assumed "expensive paints" were a scam.

Too many of these kinds of faggots in this hobby. I can just smell all the future price whining threads you'll make.

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>>51135887
>>51135944

So I just won a bid on some metal daemonettes. I've never worked with metal models, how do I do this? Do I need power tools or will my normal scalpel suffice?

>>51136256

You don't need any special tools, you just have to press harder with the knife and clippers. Files and sandpaper would also be useful. If you're lucky they're already cleaned up or don't need cleaning.

>>51136197
Don't be a faggot, anyone new to anything is surprised by quality vs price.

Faggot.

>>51136333

No, only poorfags and manchildren. Working adults know that quality commands higher prices. Why do you think high price whining is so exclusive to GW?

>>51136123
you're painting minis
everything is going to be expensive

>>51136244
mate

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>>51136244
why dont you make a close up of one of them, fellow kriegfag?

also posting the early wip of my krieg sergeant, sorry for the poor quality but my shitty phone and low cost lightbulbs is what i have.

>>51136365
>>51136361

That doesn't surprise me, I went into this knowing it would be expensive. Regardless, I want to try to cut corners where I can without it affecting the overall quality.

If I need to get good paints for my minis to look good, that's what I'm going to do.

>>51136512

You can still save significant money by buying Army Painter or Vallejo instead of GW. The savings are like $1 per paint and you get a little more from the non-GW brands and they also last longer due to the pot design.

The real money savings will be from buying brushes that last longer and from buying miniatures from cheaper stores or used instead of full price.

>>51136512
Good attitude man, fuck all these people with their hurr durr income agruments. You're on a fucking anime board talking about minitures, nobody gives a shit what you make.

>inb4 what my income is

Plenty, but I don't shit on new people coming into the hobby.

>>51136544
>The real money savings will be from buying brushes that last longer and from buying miniatures from cheaper stores or used instead of full price.
Or playing games with cheap miniatures or where you can buy miniatures for a discounted price. For example, with Dystopian Wars you can get a decent navy going for half the price that it would cost you at retail due to the fact that a lot of people are selling the minis on eBay NIB.

>>51136611
Plus, if you really want to play a game without paying too much there is always cardstock.

>>51136678
And by too much I mean basically nothing.

>>51136361
So only poorfags and manchildren are going to ask if citadel paints or 200$ of semi-average brushes are worth it? Cmon.

>>51136709
yes
because its a fucking hobby, not a job
hobbies are bound to be expensive.

>>51136644
>Or playing games with cheap miniatures

Other games have MORE expensive miniatures. Nobody plays Dystopian Wars/Legions so don't even.

>>51136611
>missing the point completely

The point was that only people who don't even have a job at all are going to be whining about a $30 box of toys being too expensive. If you have ANY sort of income, this should not be breaking your bank and you should be aware of what it costs to operate in the world of adults.

>>51136709
>not using Google to see if kolinsky sable is really worth the price
>not using Google to see if there aren't cheaper alternatives to GW
>asking all your dumb questions on /tg/

Yeah, that would make you a fucking retard and a manchild in my book.

>>51136512
>>51136611

I started collecting 40k stuff 17 years ago, when I was on 20$ pocket money per month. Not having a lot of money is no reason to not get into the hobby it's just a matter of patience and saving up when you spare little. Today as I have a job to pay rent, car and plastic crack I still remember the joy of buying my first Terminator squad after saving up part of my money for 5 months. Took me another 2 months to get the colors.

I only wish more people would have made the experience of not getting everything they want shoved up their ass by their parents.

>>51136794

A starting army for Kings of War costs $60. The Age of Sigmar equivalent costs $85, and comes with not only less models but is not even enough to be considered a starter army.

>>51136862
thats another thing
people go into the hobby, spend a thousand bucks on miniatures for an army, and then say 'wow gw is so expensive!'
like shit, build your army from the ground up, play small first.

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my nurgle army is finished, minus the three nurglings at the back. they're only half done.

>>51136917

He's playing 40k you stupid faggot those trash Mantic miniatures that look like shit are totally gonna help him out there

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>mfw everyone here is painting newer minis and literally all mine are ancient OOP

Started and finished collecting in the 90's.

>>51136977

Not sure if it is just the lighting, but those minis look a bit washed out.

>>51136917
you get what you pay for

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>>51137014
hopefully the lighting. my samsung s4 is picky as shit about the conditions in which it can take a good photo.

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how would i go about painting this Desert Raider Marine from 1d4chan?

https://1d4chan.org/wiki/Desert_Raiders_Chapter

>>51136998
Well excuse me for suggesting cheaper alternatives if 40k is too expensive for him. I thought it was assumed that most of the time cheaper alternatives usually means worse quality.

>>51137055
It just looks like they aren't that "fleshy", you know what I mean?

>>51137077
the only people who complain about prices are the ones that want to play 40k

>>51136862
>I only wish more people would have made the experience of not getting everything they want shoved up their ass by their parents.
Not even that, the average person doesn't have the patience for it anymore. Twenty years ago the main target audience were either RPG players, scale modelers or historical wargamers, who were already totally down with spending their time on getting things ready. Because that's what their hobbies were already about.

Nowadays the primary market are... video gamers, or people playing board games. That's why simple skirmish games and quick, self-contained box games have been gaining popularity. The old target market has kids and/or less time to spend on their hobbies, and the new target market doesn't want to spend a year putting together an army because they're used to getting everything in one go, ready to play.

Which sucks for me, because playing fully painted games on nice terrain is why I started doing this shit.

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I can't decide on what goblin to get. The normal goblins are more detailed, but look kinda off. Night goblin are more clean but simple.
Purely based on looks alone, these goblins or night goblin?

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>>51137282
Here's night goblins in case you forgot how they look.
I really want to practice using glazes and wet blending for highlights, can't really see easy use on these guys considering how flat they mostly are

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>>51137327
It's still insulting how poorly the plastics compare to the metal ones though...

>>51137214
Yea, I really sometimes feel like an old man... and I'm 27 with said before 17 years in the hobby. I remember the old days when a fully painted 1.5k points army was a set goal for a year or even two. Tournaments would only allow fully painted armies... A few months ago I was attending a KT tourney, 200 pts, mine and the army of my buddy were the only fully painted 200 fucking points, like 10 to 15 models, armies. Fuck I feel old.

>>51137547
Just wait, in 20 years it will be over 100 years since WW2.

>>51137547
Good for you champ.

>>51137077

Mantic's nice stuff isn't even that cheap. They raised the prices to support their higher quality stuff like their terrain.

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Gave up on Krieg because Recasts are almost as auful as FW pricing model

Went for the breen tider instead, heres my Deff Skullz so far. the starter box, a gretchin unit and some killer kans.

Also pictured my Krieg HQ unit i cant find the will to pawn off just yet

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A pair of knights for House Jormungandr

>>51137832
Who was the recast from? i'm waiting on a grenadier squad right now.

>>51137856
Laura-Hook on ebay, Absoloutely deplorable quality. the HQ squad i got through a lucky bid from an ex-player.

>>51137846
I have a sudden urge to fight these two my chapter master, equipped only with a thunder hammer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFYVcz7h3o0

>>51137832
>giving up on an army and picking your army based on cost instead of just saving up for what you really want

Poorfags are pleb as fuck, seriously. Coulda just saved even more money by not buying either of them if that was your real goal.

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>>51137832
>>51137856
Close up of the kriegers because im a vain motherfucker

>>51137946
Not giving up, just getting a cheaper army to play with untill i can justify the cost of a krieg army.

It was a coin toss between orks and AM, im hoping by the end of 2017 ill have a good 2,000+points of each

>>51137930
>not posting superior Amon Amarth song

Do you even [windmilling intensifies]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sevM9xeeIX0

>>51137978
a fine song to wield a hammer to, but makes no mention of fighting a world serpent named Jormungandr.

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>It snowed here recently
>My buddy dropped a whole bunch of built but unpainted grey hunters in the snow
>Finds all but one
>After many buckets of hot water and searching, we finally find him
>Try to convince him to make him a Lone Wolf
>He's not going to

I need cooler friends.

>>51130151

Anon, I saw you posting when you first started this mini, and it's turning out fucking awesome.
Can't help you with the colors. But good job. It's been fun watching your progress.

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this one is an older one, but thought I'd contribute.

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>tfw want to paint but all my brushes burst into flame

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Here is two cam squads with just the base armor color and soft armor done. Do they look passable?

Do cadian flags come flat in any kits, or just the big skull flag cast? I'd like to have my Gue'vesa fly the flag with a Sept instead of the skull, but it looks rather thin. I have some MKIII guys with the laurel/banner combo, would that wven be fluffy to use? At a loss as to how these dudes are gonna be pimped out

>>51138537
I know that flatter wing is a defect, but I'd like to think his Crozius has its wing clipped due to smashing skulls

Will I stop fucking up models? I am new to assembling GW and am currently working in the Start Collecting Necrons box. That fucking Triacrh Stalker is a bitch to put together.

>>51139372

Yeah but you're going to go through at least two or three boxes of them before you start cranking out perfect ones.

I'm about to start painting for the first time in many, many years, so I have zero supplies.

Which is good, because I get to avoid pissing money away on useless shit. I remember the old $5 special pack from Hobby Lobby, fuckers frayed the instant I opened the package.

I think I've settled on ArmyPainter paints, but looking at brushes is... more difficult. Not only is quality all over the fucking place, but there's dozens of sizes. Seems like I'll want to start with Round 3/0, Round 2, and Round 0? Maybe a Bright 2?

Round 2 and Round 0 have the same diameter from what I can tell, but slightly different lengths. When do you want to use each?

This shit is confusing.

>>51139656

I've used AP brushes. They're okay, but they shed a lot and eventually become useless. The best part about them is honestly their simple naming scheme for people who don't know how to do brush number sizes, and their awesome triangle handles that prevent rolling and feel nice and hefty in your hand.

I would recommend actually either a Regiment brush from AP, which can be your precision basecoater and wash brush, and then getting a better brush for actual details. Any size 0, 1, or 2 kolinsky sable from a good brand like Raphael 8404, Winsor & Newton Series 7, or Da Vinci will do. This will be your priciest brush but will last years, you only need one, and it can do a large variety of tasks due to its thickness combined with its sharp tip.

For all other jobs, such as fast basecoating and drybrushing, simply buy a pack of disposable brushes that come in an assorted size. Fast basecoating doesn't require precision, so just get a large-ish flat chisel type brush that's about 1/3 or 1/2 of an inch wide.

You don't need a million brushes, all you really need is a single kolinsky brush, disposable brushes, and then if you want large brushes, the appropriately sized flat brush for basecoating infantry or vehicles.

>>51139656

Shitty brush = smaller number = less hairs = smaller point, but smaller belly reservoir

Good brush = smaller number = smaller reservoir but same sharp point

So if you buy cheap brushes, you go down in number in order to get sharper points, but you eventually end up with a brush containing a handful of hairs which is stupid. If you buy good brushes, the size only dictates how much water the brush can hold, so how often you have to go back to the palette to get more paint.

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>>51133445
>I'M FROM KASR NOVEM, AND I SAY KILL 'EM ALL!!

>>51139411
I mean they are not ruined. Just wonky.

I was checking to make sure I wasn't retarded and fucking up a few times in the beginning is normal.

>>51139728
If I hate money, is their any other reason not to buy the GW brushes? I already use their paint.

>>51139853

The parts are small and you've never done this before so you're going to mess up gluing shit together. The problem might also be your glue, it's harder to use thin glues and easier if you use gel type glues.

>>51125910

This is brilliant! Frankly wouldn't even care about the bad rules if I had an army this converted! I would always win the cool factory.

>>51138947
Well, they don't look DONE, but they look okay.

I wouldn't think twice if you put these on the table.

>>51139871

GW brushes are fine, they used to have synthetic junk and only the 'Eavy Metal masterclass limited series of brushes was kolinsky, but they now use some kind of sable or animal hair that's not kolinsky sable but is still a decent natural hair for bristles.

A lot of their sizes are redundant or useless, like do you really need a honking house sized paintbrush for tanks? If you want to buy something like their small layer and their basecoat brush go ahead, they are about on par with Army Painter prices but higher quality.

Just don't go TOO small because then you run into the "not enough hairs" problem the crappier brushes have when trying to achieve tiny points.

I don't think Citadel brushes are worth the money at all and would rather buy good brushes online for more money, but if someone gave me free Citadel brushes, they certainly get the job done without much wrestling with the brush.

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>>51139927
Thank you. They aren't done but inching closer to it.

Any quick tutorials for putting light greenstuff on marines to nurgle them up? Just simple stuff like rot or boils or what have you.

>>51137950
They still look Ok anon.

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How do i edge highlight the red armor if all the esges are brass? Also what do I highlight brass/gold? I have bathasar gold and hashut copper but I've already used both.

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So I sez to her I sez,
"'ey baby, if 'avin three tits means you're a slaaneshi demon, then you're a slaaneshi demon! get over 'ere."

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>>51140810
one eye on the tiddies, one eye on the trenches

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Hey WIP, I need some help. I'm working out a color scheme for my infinity guys and I can't figure out what would be better.

Left is turquoise and much more subtly highlighted.

Right is blue with a heavy drybrush highlight.

The right looks better from a tabletop distance, but it looks overdone up close.

>>51140937
You can always cut the harshness of the drybrushing down with a watered down glaze of colour.

it's a painting technique as old as dirt, but I find it appealing

>>51140937
left looks cleaner, colors on the right one work better though imo.

>>51140937

The guy on the left looks like such a typical modern day cleancut bearded faggot. Good job.

>>51138537
Still an awesome model.. I showed my friend this model, and he was like "Uhh these guys are the good guys in this universe??"
Your image sort of sucks in terms of quality, but it looks good, did you drill out the barrells for the stormbolter? kudos on that. If anything my complaint is get a better quality image taker...

>>51137950
>51137950
What I like about your paint job here... is the mud and dirt on the bottom of their long coats. Nice attention to detail mate. Overall good paint job. I mean with kick ass models like these...it's almost *hard* to mess them up.

I guess my only thing is that there is a lot of brown on these models, and the bases don't help with that. the bases on them should be a bit less monotone. They look like melted chocolate chip cookies. It's not horrible, but just ...boring. Otherwise great stuff.

Got some 2nd hand marines from a buddy. About 10 of the marines have their arms snapped off at the shoulder plate. They were glued using plastic cement

Ideas to make them presentable?

Also; best way to paint the chestplate aquilas with a gun covering them?

What are people's thoughts on putting gold over yellow, especially a dark yellow, such as on an Imperial Fist's aquila?

>>51129323
Dettol works like a charm.

>>51127387
kromlech sells discs for tzeentch models

>>51141895
Odds my local GW doesn't care about Kromlech being used?

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whats a way to make marines look unique ? i want all my mk2-3s to look unique but its almost tedious to find ways to make them all look good

>>51142016
What legion?

>>51142037
mantis warriors or white scars successors if that helps

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So..pardon me if this has been answered before... but if there's such a clearly defined and meme'd rule of watering down the paints... Why don't companies, GW included, just sell them with more more in them?

pic and filename related

>>51142883

Because sometimes you want the paint thicker, such as for drybrushing. I agree GW paint is a little TOO thick, but you definitely don't want to sell them already fully thinned. These are already available as airbrush paints like Vallejo Model Air or Citadel Air.

You can always thin your paint down more if you need to. It's much harder to thicken it up if you need it thicker.

>>51138938
LaughingArizonan.jpg
Really though, where do you live? Southern hemisphere, presumably?

>>51142883
More water in paints = bigger bottles = more transport cost = more GW jewery and price inflation.
Alternatively, more water = same pots but less paint = need to buy more paint = more GW jewery and price inflation

>>51142976
Guessing australia because that looks like my backyard and today was hot as fuck.

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>>51142976

>>51143003
>>51143005
My sympathies. I hate hot weather as well, despite having lived in it since I was a kid. Could never get used to the heat, but love the cold.

>>51142994
fuck shit you're right.

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How do I give my tactical space wizard proper glowy witchlight eyes?

I gave it my best shot but I'm unsatisfied.

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>>51143122
if thats a glaze, do another layer of the blue glaze, dont be afraid to splash it a bit on the edges.

>>51143376
It is, yeah. Sounds good. I kinda feel like maybe I should make it not so dark around the edge of the light effect? Should it fade it watered out blue/white?

>>51143122

Resize your images. You put the eye glow on too dark, try thinning it. An easy way to get a glow is to paint the eyeballs white first, then brush a thin blue all over the sockets, then put a dot of white back on the eye.

What should i use to stick a vulture to it's stand? Superglue tend to frost it up.

>still don't have Tech-Priest Dominus finished
>got an Onager Dunecrawler and 20 Skitarii partially assembled and unpainted
>just ordered Triumvirate of the Imperium

And here I thought never ever finishing my backlog would be limited to anime.

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>>51140498

>>51129443
The active ingredient in Dettol that strips paint is Pine Oil, same as break fluid.

>>51140498

You're supposed to paint the red in a dark red basecoat then wash to darken even more then use the same dark red to go back over but this time only paint the inside of the armour panels etc while leaving the edges that touch the gold trim as darker. Then do the same with lighter red again leaving the edge of the darker coat you just made exposed so you get a graduating tone with the central portion of any armour segment as lighter. You can use the same principle with the fleshy parts on the back, so the most prominent places are lightest.

Also check Duncan's Dark Vengeance painting tutorials on youtube he shows how to paint the helbrute.

>>51140498
>>51143769

Also to add to your second question, you can highlight the brass parts by carefully drybrushing the edges with silver. It's all in Duncan's guide btw.

>>51129323

Detol, the brown kind. It stinks to high heaven though, and DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT expose the model to water when scrubbing off the residue paint after removing from the detol. It makes the paint extremely sticky and staining.

>>51137344
>Putting a gnoblar in with the rest of them
And you thought I wouldn't notice

>>51138938
Here it rains like a madman so I can't spray anything. It maddens me because I wanted to do it yesterday but was busy then

>>51143809
>and DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT expose the model to water when scrubbing off the residue paint after removing from the detol. It makes the paint extremely sticky and staining.
...
...
...i fugged up

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>>51143869
scrub it in methylated spirits. runs off the model like a charm and the alcohol, i assume, keeps the paint from clumping, so you just have a jar of metho with a shitton of tiny pigment in it. no mess, no worries.

also, progress.

>>51143899

Are you sure he's not blessed by Chaos? Nurgle bestowed upon him daemonic jowls.

>>51143899
What's this fatass from?

>>51143869
If you do not have any meth, just dry it with kitchen paper and pop it back I dettol for a few more hours.

I scrub in the dettol, with the fluid in a wide / shallow jar or a chinese takeaway tub.
When you can see the model is all scrubbed clean, dunk it again to remove any debris and then just dry the model in kitchen paper.

When you are fully sure that all the paint residue is gone and most the dettol is absorbed by the paper, then you can rinse in soapy water.

>>51143938
listen 'ere guv, I'z a loyal Ogryn of da imperial guard o' Cadia, and proud ovvit! so what if da commisar got squashed and the guy wot did the squashin' got tentacles, e's da new commisar now, and i'll obey 'is orders.
>>51143960
it's a model by scibor monstrous miniatures. he's too big to really fit in 40k but i got a bunch of them for two dollars a piece and they make good show pieces.

Would I be a Heretek if I paint Belisarius Cawl in anything other than Marsian colors?

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Painting the first 5 Lernaean termies for my Alpha Legion, should I give the blue armour an extreme edge highlight or keep it as is and move on to the trim?

>>51144128
I'd say highlight after the trim, just because it gives more perspective to which edges need it

>>51137832
Your orks won't be albe to shoot their guns without any holes in the gun barrel.

Nice work though.

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The fuck am I gonna do with the little bottle thingies on this magos' back? I'm scared Duncan, hold me!

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>>51144268
do like this

>>51144128
Fuck, that is beatiful blue anon. Good work. I guess extreme white highlights could work on such a shiny armor.

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>>51144268
http://eyeoferror.blogspot.nl/2013/01/painting-realistic-fluid-filled-vials_7.html
See the link for a tutorial on pic related.

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I'm p new to all this. I made a mimic for my gm for christmas out of sculpey and modded/painted some HeroForge miniatures.

>>51144366
i love the mimic

>>51144360

Thanks! I'll try it out.

>>51144268
Came here to post this >>51144360

I need helmets! Helmets that fit on sigmarines!

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nicked this from a fb modelling group

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Could this be used on a hellhound?

http://chapterhousestudios.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=77&product_id=67

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>>51144954
Any marine sized helmet will work.

>>51145465
Who not, it's a chassis mod, nothing more.
You'd have a wheeled Hellhound, rather than a tracked one.

>>51145465
main problem is, you cant get stuff from chapter house anymore

>>51145837
The front page says they're still operating.

>>51145845
check the facebook, its full of people saying they didnt get their orders, cant get any communication and had to get their money back through paypal

>too cold to go outside and spray prime last few days
>finally warms up
>now it's too humid

>>51146020
>get a few things primed in the brief window of not too cold and not raining
>am now extremely sick and don't want to do anything but be a zombie
aaaa

>>51146052
>>51146020
>at final stages of edge highlighting mini for display

>so hot my hands are dripping with sweat and my patience is thinner than a blood ravens excuse for appropriating shit

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Some freehand detail practice, still needs some cleanup on the base and to permanently affix the rifle arm.

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>>51146574

sauce on that torso?