WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

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First for "not having the proper tools makes one want to kill oneself"

>>51052561
What am I looking at?

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>>51052578

Making a 5mm deep 30m diameter socket in the top of a warlords arm for a big magnet. Hand tools only, biggest bit is 8mm.

Going to get a dremel soon because fuck doing that ever again.

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Reposting
I'm trying to achieve this blended black/grey effect.
One anon suggested that a light grey has been airbrushed lightly over the top of both colours which is what i've been thinking as well.
The issue is that i'm not sure how to go about airbrushing a layer on without completely covering all previous layers. If i go too thin then i end up with a speckled/dusted on sort of coat.
What the fuck am i missing.

>>51052668
>If i go too thin then i end up with a speckled/dusted on sort of coat.

Sounds like you have an atomisation problem with your airbrush. Wrong pressure/distance, thin your paints, something like that.

But to make things a lot easier, reduce the opacity of your grey by mixing it with a clear varnish.

And since we're basically looking at a filter here, read up on filters: http://www.missing-lynx.com/rare_world/rw02.htm

>>51052751
>atomization problem
Yea i tried changing my psi up to 30 and paint is going on pretty smooth now.

Thanks anon i'll have another go with some varnish mixed in.

>>51052908
Woah, WAAAAY too high. Go like 10psi, thin paints.

>>51053095
bullshit, you cant generalize that. Depending on what job I do, I vary from 10-40psi.

>>51053095
Really? i'm using vallejo model air paints.
Was i supposed to thin it? i thought this stuff was pre thinned

>>51053118
You're suggesting he shoot straight paint? That's the only scenario I can envision you'd want to go that high.
>>51053121
You might need a drop or two. Probably not much. Shoot for multiple thin coats.

>>51053121
always use a little water/thinner/flow improver

>>51053134
Nah, I (nearly) never shoot straight paint, always using some water and or thinner and or flow improver.

But still, limiting yourself to one pressure is obstructing yourself

>>51053148
I dunno, I started high when I got my Iwata and I was getting spiders everywhere until I dialed it down. 10-15 is where I end up sitting unless I'm priming.

>>51053158
Whatever works for you, brother. But still, you can't simply say 10 psi is always best. It varies greatly depending on nozzle size, the airbrush used, the color used, etc.

>>51052627
>Making a 5mm deep 30m diameter socket in the top of a warlords arm for a big magnet.
Are you fucking retarded?
Oh wait, you bought a warlord, more money than sense, right.

Seriously though, it sounds very structurally unsound. Drill 3-4 deep holes put wires through and drill at one end, so it looks like an electric plug (except longer) or something. That should stop the arm from rotating (important when you have a giant resin barrel pointing forward) and you can get away with a smaller, easier to install magnet.

>>51053180
Well OK; what are you using, and why are you going that high?

>>51053197
Depends. If I'm using a .2 nozzle with rather thick paint for very focused highlights, I need 25-30. Or if I'm priming. My old, cheap airbursh needed higher psi to get a clear spracing picture.

>>51053185

It's 100% structurally sound, the magnet takes the place of whatever material was removed and isnt coming out thanks to epoxy and greenstuff and the magnet itself has a 2kg pull force. The arm doesn't rotate unless I move it and the arm doesnt come off unless I want it to.

>>51053197
also, check nextlevelpainting on YT.
Yes, he is pretty obnoxious, but he can use his airbrush pretty well. He also paints with high pressure.

>>51053320
He's not as bad if you just skip the intros to his videos.

>>51053320
>pretty obnoxious
bit of an understatement.

>>51053344
That's what I do, but you have to warn people cause that 'HITTING YOU UP ON THE LITERAL BEST OF ALL DAYS' and his patron stuff is reaaaaally annoying.
also, the lingo: His 'gangster gunbo' and 'ancient chinese tricks' are really annoying but GOOD advice.

i don't think i understood correctly, am i supposed to thin my paints?

>>51053534
No, paint thinning is a lie pushed by the hobby vampires who feed off the extra time and effort spent applying multiple thin layers.

Slap it on as thick and fast as you can anon, straight out of the pot if possible!

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>>51053534
Its just a meme, you dont really need to thin your paints, ever

>>51053534
Depends on the paint's consistency.

>>51053534
a general rule is thin to the consistency of peanut butter.

>>51053534

No it's a meme, always THICKEN your paints. Not too much just 1:3 pva glue to paint is perfect.

>>51053914
>>51053534
dont listen to this guy, you want to thicken it with sand, or crushed gravel. pva will just leave you with sticky models.
no but really, most paints out of the pot are thick, and you want to thin them with water to the consistency of milk. you want them to cover your model surfaces without obscuring detail, at all. if it's blobbing on rivets or insignias or in any way hiding the detail, your paints too thick. you may need to thin it to the point where you need to apply several coats for a consistent colour, this is normal. you dont 'always' thin your paints, but you generally do.

>>51053534
NEVER thin your paints. It ruins the adhesive and ir dries scratchy and pools to the bottom of the model so you get this ugly effect of too much color at the bottom of the model, and not enough at the top.

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Currently working on a converted Gun Servitor

>>51054022
if i saw that coming at me i'd piss myself. where did you get the skull?

>>51054039
Honestly, I have no idea. I looked far and wide for an appropriately sized skull but couldn't find anything. Then i visited my parents and little brother, and he had that little skull on a shelf. Likely from a $2 shop. Lucky find,

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More progress on my test Night Lord.

I need to rough up the lightning on the studded leg, but I think I'm getting there.

>>51054073
Looking pretty nice

>>51054022
Blanche / 10

>>51054022

Truly, a weapon to rival Metal Gear.

>>51054039
When halloween comes around again you should pay a visit to a local one dollar store or equivalent.
Basically any place where you can buy cheap crap and terrible decorations.

>>51054185
great idea, if only there was a halloween store in january..

>>51054217
>Truly, a weapon to rival Metal Gear.
well right now you could buy left over christmas stuff.
Bells or other ornaments. Dried lotus pods and the like.

Though on amazon you can buy that kind of stuff all year round.
Not quite as cheap, but you can still find it if you need it.

A friend of mine wants to start an Ork Freebooter army.

What models work best with this? Is there a company that makes good conversion pieces to this end?

He probably won't make more than a Killteam or so, but it should be a fun project I can help with.

>>51050602
DO IT

Apparently people with knowledge of casting hang out here. Anyone have experience with ComposiMold?

>>51054883
>What models work best with this? Is there a company that makes good conversion pieces to this end?
You mean like full on pirates?
Spellcrow, puppetswar, Kromlech and Maxmini have a selection of ork bits.
Most of these should have ork pirate bits too.

>>51054891
Not that guy but I'm doing a squad of assault marines at the moment that will have hazard striped swords.

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>>51054900
>Apparently people with knowledge of casting hang out here.

No we don't!

>Anyone have experience with ComposiMold?

[checking Google to see if this is a product I've used] maybe, but I personally do not.

Micro Mark 1:1 is great for simple two-part molds, but it has the consistency of Velveeta cheese. It tears easily if your master has overhangs or gaps. Micro Mark 10:1 is much stronger, but is a thick goopy mess. I don't care for it. Alumilite High Strength 3 is my new favourite, but I've only done one project with it (pic related).

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>>51054963
>hazard striped swords.

>>51055098
I'm taking notes. Keep typing stuff anon.

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>>51055186
>I'm taking notes. Keep typing stuff anon.

This guide shows up in here from time to time. Ironically, I've never had much luck (zero luck, to tell the truth) casting things with resin, and prefer to work with low-melt pewter alloys instead. I got most of my ideas from da clevva ladz at Hirst Arts:

http://hirstarts.com/moldmake/moldmaking.html

>>51055253
Reading materials, nice one.

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>>51055186

Also, while "dusting" of your molds might seem "extra" or "trivial", it's not. It's important to break up the surface tension of your material, or you get an odd texture to the surface that looks like raindrops falling on an otherwise calm pond. They say for metal you should dust your mold with graphite powder, but that unscented (talc) baby powder will do in a pinch. I've found that the latter is actually *better*.

>>51055345
You should write a new guide to be honest

>>51055098
I wonder, do you sell these Johnnies or did you send them away for the SS?

>>51055098
FOUR JOHNNY?!
FOOL. YOU'LL UPSET THE NATURAL ORDER

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>>51055620
>I wonder, do you sell these Johnnies or did you send them away for the SS?

I gave one recast away to a lad in Italy, but have never sold them. The Johnny I sent out for Secret Santa wasn't a recast, and isn't shown in the >>51055098 picture; Beckenham anon painted that one up (pic related) better than I painted mine!

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>>51055624
>FOUR JOHNNY?!
>FOOL. YOU'LL UPSET THE NATURAL ORDER

Desperate times call for desperate measures.

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>>51055951
THE ENEMY IS USING PSYCHOLOGICAL WARFARE

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eyy guys, I think that these two need some "More". I'm currently waiting on plasticard and want ideas.

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>>51056166
also here's a warbike I did. I'm unsure how to paint it. Matchbox bikes are great for orks.

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>>51056181
Waaagh

Chaps, I have some mars pattern plasma cannons. Can anyone tell me the safest way to bend the resin wires into place? Heat them using hot water?

>>51056166
Why buy plasticard? Go buy "for sale" signs from the dollar store.

>>51056289
That's the way to bend resin, so yeah. Your other option might be to snip them off and replace them with guitar string cables.

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Anons, for my first Heresy army, I want to do Xana II Mechanicum. Colour scheme is apparently brass for the Cybernetica and something like this for the rest of the army, and I lack an airbrush to replicate Forge Worlds scheme. Plan was basecoat Zandri Dust, layer zameesi desert and highlight Tau light ochre, would that produce something about right?

What colour primer should I use?
Also, some of the Armour panels and shoulder pads will be dark red to break it up. Anyone know a good method for that?

Ideally Games Workshop's paints, they're the most available for me, but I can get others if needed, obviously.

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Ultimate evolution

>>51056510
Prime black, then spray your panels with GW's Zandri Dust spray if you're confined to rattlecans.I don't think Tau Light Ochre is what you want for this though, I think you want to look at Rakarth Flesh and Flayed One, washed with Agrax.

The red will go on over your zandri spray fine, if you want it dark (dull?) then mix in browns and don't go so far into orange on highlights. I mix mournfang brown into my mephiston for darker reds.

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What happens if I try to reshape painted resin?

>>51056653
Paint might chip and/or flake off. It might be fine. Depends on how much you're changing the shape of the resin, if you primed properly, etc.

>>51056578

Thanks, anon. I was having a few doubts re. highlights there myself. Those look much more suitable. The red is ideally going to be just slightly darker than Mephiston, so I'll experiment with some mixes on my test models.

I didn't know there was a Zandri Dust spray, I'll have to pick that one up. Given how much Nuln Oil and some Agrax I'll need to darken the skeletons on Knights and such to a good level, I'll have to grab an extra pot or two, and probably a bigger brush. This is going to be fun, most of the army will be converted, so I can use some of the giant pile of Admech parts my War Convocation has left me with.

>>51056724
You'll thank yourself for picking up a Leadbelcher spray and a large drybrush for the skeleton as well.

I was initially skeptical of the gloss washes, but gloss nuln produced a nice finish on my knight.

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Finished my test model for my upcoming 30K Death Guard. Wash went a little fucky but I think the effect works well enough, my proper ones will probably be a bit cleaner. C&C on colour choice and basing appreciated, mould lines and bolter barrel left because he's only a test model.

>>51056766
Got the Leadbelcher spray at the moment, actually, but I need to order up some magnets and greenstuff to build the rest of the Knight before I can do more than the legs. Once the weather improves I can prime, spray and paint up the legs and those armour panels, and do a base for him. Was considering the gloss Nuln oil for some of the pistons and such, but the rest of him is going to be matte, so Lahmian Medium and regular washes. Had good experiences with the gloss on my Skitarii and Cult Mechanicus, though.

I def. need some more brushes, plus some of that Masters stuff I've seen recommended.

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Anyone know any models with a similar looking tail to what necron wraiths have? Need them for a conversion but can't find the bits in stock anwhere.

Anyone else slightly annoyed by the totally obvious painting questions? Like you can find answers for them with Google very easily. I understand if you have more specific questions and shit, but fuck, it takes like 5 seconds to type on Youtube or Google how to do something basic.

Am I a cunt for being annoyed by this?

>>51057326
Tomb King sepulchral guard have them may find soem cheap since the models notoriously break.

>>51057326
Puppetswar sell an alternate version of those models. They have a whole line of alt-necrons.
spiders instead of scarabs, alt-tomb spiders and different heads for the warriors.

>>51052627
>all that greenstuff

Daily reminder that resin is the superior modelling material, all other materials just can't compete...

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Bought some necrons but can't decide on a colour scheme. Vanilla black with green highlights or pale blue and gold?

>>51057631

For me FW just isn't worth it. With paying so much you should fucking have a product that doesn't need insane amount of prep work before you can even start painting it.

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Hey guys I'm trying organize all my hobby shit. Is there any kind of case or something where I can put all of this in an organized manner, and also easy to transport? I'm tired of having to transport 5+ boxes each time I want to take my hobby to another place, and there's even more shit not included in the picture.

>>51056784
The eyes could need a stronger red.

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Reposting from last thread since no replies.

I'm about 3 hours total in on this Broadside, and looking for feedback on a couple specific points.
>Gun muzzle: Plain black as normal?
>Gun disc: Should I do this the same blue as the rest of my armor, Leadbelcher, or something else entirely?
>Missile tips: I've done red on other models and I'm thinking about doing them again.
>What's the best lens color I could use with this scheme? I have every primary color bright enough I could use for lenses.

Remaining to do: Abaddon Black areas, cleanup, and the aforementioned details (plus highlights if I decide I want to do them).

>>51056784
If this is an Istvaan V post virus bombing the base is pretty fitting, though I think a bit more contrast would help the model.
For example a urban rubble scape with mostly dark greys and blacks would be a nice contrast to the off-white armor.

Looks good though, and thematically fitting for deathguard.

>>51054900
Barely, but yes - rather, an off-brand called "amazing remelt". What do you want to know from my limited experience with it?

>>51057974
I didn't reply last thread because I try not to shit on people, but I'll go this time.

I really dislike your scheme, and I think it's been executed poorly.
If you're sticking with this scheme then highlight your blues a lot more, it will look better but I will still disagree with it.

I can't quite tell what that reddy brown colour on the gun and chest is, but it clashes with the blue badly.

When you look at the studio schemes for tau, they steer clear of metallics for everything but small accents, and that's the right call.
If you keep your blue on the armour (but lighten it with significant highlights) and replace the leadbelcher parts with either white or black accents it could look good.
Get rid of that reddy brown entirely.
With your guns, whichever of black or white that you didn't use on the armour, and you could get away with small bright orange accents for lenses and power cores or whatever tau have.

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>>51057385
>>51057419
Thanks for the info. I'm working on a Talos rearing up on a tail like in pic related. I'm not sure the tomb kings models will be suitable, but the puppets war stuff seems promising.

>>51058223
>highlight your blues more
I've done so on some of my Crisis suits, and I do like the way it looks better than flat blue. Still have to fix some surface details on the blue before I start highlighting here.
>reddish brown
That's Warplock Bronze.
>the studio schemes steer clear of metallics... and that's the right call
Here's where we disagree. Dark blue on black looks godawful and doesn't actually look like metal whatsoever. It looks like, well, a plastic robot. I don't touch white, since it goes wrong on every model I've tried it on *and* it looks bad in my opinion. I'm not a huge fan of Warplock even though I'm using it, but it looks better at this point. And there's no way in hell I'm going back and stripping the rest of my models again to match an updated scheme.

I appreciate the commentary, and I don't think you're shitting on my work. I'm already invested enough in this scheme that I can't change a ton of the basics, and I have to force myself to paint new stuff as it is, let alone redo all my old stuff for the second time.

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How can I make this look less dumb, how would I position the straps also?

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Looks more dumb of the back. Should I remove the exhaust and just put a piece of plasticard on there instead?

Any advice for painting metal models? I managed to get my hands on old Diaz Seekers, and I'd like to avoid messing them up.

>>51057334
I prefer annon's advice and tips more than googles

>>51058502
There's relatively little too mess up, just prime and paint. Make sure you pin where needed and fill gaps.

>>51058502
Yeah, not much different than plastic or resin. Just be sure to clean them thoroughly before priming, mold release agent is gonna make your primer rub right off.

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>>51058502
>Any advice for painting metal models? I managed to get my hands on old Diaz Seekers, and I'd like to avoid messing them up.

It's very much like painting plastic models, except you'll need to use superglue for assembly instead of plastic cement. Just like plastic models, though, you'll want to prime them, thin yer paints, and (possibly even moreso than with plastics) AVOID TOUCHING THEM!

Secure the model you are working to another object you can hold so that you don't deposit the oil from your fingers on it or rub the paint off while you're working. Often, the easiest way to do this is to glue the model to its base and then stick the base to something else with poster putty/blu-tack (visible underneath the base in this picture).

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Got all these for like 30$ and I have DE to paint what kind of scheme can I do with this?

>>51058626

Buy black and you can do the standard dark green kabal that's the posterboy of DE.

>>51058640
I also only have white primer would a full green scheme look better with that?

>>51058626
green armor
grey fabrics
brass metals

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>>51054073

Did some touch ups, highlighting, and colored the lenses. This is about my limit with these brushes. I'm hitting an arts store this weekend, so hopefully the next one will turn out much better. This was largely a test anyway.

>>51058553
>>51058586
>>51058600
Alright. Sounds like it shouldn't be too different from normal then, aside from the greater need to keep it clean and avoid touching it.

Thanks for the tips!

>>51058713
Try some lighter red in the center of the eye sockets but leaving a dark red border around.

>>51058838

I'll see what I can do. In person, the lighter center is more visible, but I guess the camera shaded the eye more.

What red should I use? That's based with reaper dragon red, then I mixed some reaper bone and touched the middle.

>>51058910
Slightly lighter red.

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>>51058370
Backpack.

>>51059044
Dats a lotta dakka

>>51057924
>>51058001

Thank you both, the eyes definitely will be painted properly on the final models.

As for the base, I just saw a Duncan tutorial and wanted to try it out. I agree that maybe the dark brown earth tones blend a little too much with the staining on the armour. Maybe I'll go for urban rubble with some rusted metal/barbed wire for a little more contrast.

>>51056510
Army Painter have colour primers that should do you well.

>>51058351

NOT the anon your replying to but fuck anon

Warplock bronze isn't a final colour its a layer, I usually go warplock bronze, brass scorpion and then shade it with nuln oil. Warlock just looks terrible on its own

>>51057974

Well... its flat.

Thats your main issue, and the top priority we as painters should have when painting miniatures. We create the illusion of depth and highlights, that is our mission. To create a sense of realism on a smaller scale. Give the viewer the idea what this model might actually look like if they where to meet this model in a true scale.

I also agree parts with >>51058223 as I don't particularly enjoy the actual colors. The problem being, you have the candy cane effect going (when you desperately try to alternate colors, metal/blue/metal/brass/blue/red/blue/metal/brass.... It just goes on and on).

So, step one, get a solid army color. Go with a dark blue, if thats what you like. Second, get a secondary color that you will use less than the prime color, such as the red (is it even red? hard to tell due to picture shadows). Then go with the metallics, then ad a secondary metallic color, again in a much less used way. This is to make the model less candy cane looking.

Second, work on highlights and shades. This will be the main part of your model, so work with it and let it take time.

>>51058626

As a DE player,

>no nuln oil
>no black
>no warplock bronze to go with brass scorpion

as a DE player but mostly a painter make sure you grab those colours, just putting brass scorpion on doesnt look as good as adding a layer of warlock bronze on first before applying the brass.

Besides that you have a good set up here, you just need skin colours like pallid whych flesh, kislev flesh, and the shades that go with it, your DELDAR will suffer without you knowing how to paint skin properly.

>>51055694

What Chapter is that?

Different anon, also just got some Diaz seekers and daemonettes. I've never worked with metal before, got any tips for assembling?

I've heard about pinning, but I'm kinda scared of drilling into the models and potentially ruining them (would also have to get the drill bits, as I don't have any that small around). The fit isn't really perfect either, so I assume I'll have to fill in a bit with greenstuff too. Should I do that before gluing or afterwards?

>>51059044

I like it, especially the GS parts. Not to keen on the chain looking like its hanging a bit loose though. That should be stretched like a wire regarding the weight of that gun!

>>51059956

Mantis Warriors.

Quick question. I've got a small Skitarii/mechanicus army for christmas and I've got this idea in my head of them being fleet-based, with this great flotilla of forgeships and explorator vessels. Anyway, I have just put them on the default bases right now, but I was wondering if anyone had some ideas for making naval-styled bases. Granted, this is 40k, so the ships could have flagstones or cobble for flooring.

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Started working on this golden big guy today. Really enjoying him, a great model I think.

>>51057631
the guy is just an inexperienced modeller biting off way more than he can chew

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Marksmen for an bögenhafen army.

>>51060449

It is out already? How much was it?

What makes painting fun to you?
alternately: what makes you paint even if/though you don't enjoy it?

>>51060796
>What makes painting fun to you?
It's satisfying to finish something and make a mini come to live, with what your vision was.
>alternately: what makes you paint even if/though you don't enjoy it?
Routine.

Keep your desk clean. That's the best way to stay productive.

>>51060791
probably went to the weekender.

>>51060796

Seeing unpainted sprue become completed squad that looks somewhat decent.
Organizing all my paints and tools and treating them like a character's inventory in a video game because I'm autistic and enjoy that kind of stuff.
Having my army completely well painted in addition to perfecting it on the rules side.

If I actually painted as good as the best painters, I probably wouldn't even do anything else like play video games.

>>51060796
I wouldnt say that its yippee haha fun for me, rather that its something I enjoy and get satisfaction from. To me modeling and painting comes first, wargaming is icing on the cake in that I only do it a handful of times a year and it lets me show my friends the models I've painted. To answer your question I'd say its about the challenge, sometimes its fun to paint something just to know you can, or to try something you've never done and have it come out looking great. Its also nice to have a physical representation of your hard work.

>>51060791
Its not out yet, I got it from the open day. its £50

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Been Mega Ill so not done much painting but played with a minor bit of converting, apologies for not great pic

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So I've been feeling bad about proxying my saurus warriors as guards, so trying to make it better by making polearms by combining the weapons

>>51061074
Makes sense. I hate painting but love modeling and especially converting, so that's why I ask. Trying to see the other side of the creative part.

>>51061088

Ah. That's actually not that bad, I think I'll get couple of them.

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got my last battlewagon primed

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>>51060362
One of those could work for you. Or the 'Mesh' one.

>>51060362
>forgeships and fleet-based
Shit, now I know what I'm going when I finally get around to starting 40k.

>>51061435
Are the chains fixed or do they move freely?

>>51061435

Is that a prone / injured terminator model or did you convert it?

If you did it's really good

>>51060743

The green stuff work looks clean and matches whats there, as someone who struggles with this, nice work.

Are those bases normally flat topped that you've grooved yourself somehow?

Minor nitpick, I see a moldline on the stock of the multi-barrel gun.

Anyone have any ideas for a Skitarii force themed around history and re-discovering the past of mankind? The idea is that their tech priest is obsessed with recovering information on history (I just want an excuse to shoehorn ancient empire references into my force desu)
So far all I've come up with to represent this on the TT is to have a load of scrolls like on purity seals on them as well as throwing skulls and bones from the AOS Skeleton kits on them like archaeologists at some kind of a dig site, maybe a few tomb stones too. Maybe even doing the cloaks like huge scrolls with ancient tales and timelines along them?

I'm not looking for whole conversion ideas, just ways to make them my own. Also any colour scheme ideas would be great because I can't see the hot pink & cream cloaks I wanted to do on them fitting with this lore, I want them to feel almost wizard/necromancer-y, a way you can tell they're linked to history if that makes any sense?
I'm still coming up with this stuff so it's probably just incoherent rambling, any help would be appreciated though, especially ways to make it work for vehicles and colour schemes, I'm thinking it's going to have to be done in earthy/dark tones to pull it off honestly .

This will be the first project I take care on with regards to painting so that's probably why it sounds like I'm so clueless, I pretty much know I should thin my paints and that's about it.

>>51061526
Thank you, not that good a sculptor myself, but i had a talent for this apparently.

Old warhammer fantasy bases, so flat. Used the edge of an needle file for making the grooves, the same I used for removing the moldline (thanks).

>>51057803
GOLD GOOOOLD GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

>>51061683
I'm not even sure how that autocorrected with some words as I'm on my PC right now, pretty sure throwing skulls aren't a thing, I think I need more sleep.

>>51061509
>Is that a prone / injured terminator model or did you convert it?
it's part of another big kit.
Base decoration.

>>51061796

source, never heard of it

>>51061439
Those look pretty sweet; do you just roll it over a layer of GS and you're done? I don't mind the effort of scraping the guys off the bases again; I slapped them on hastily so I could give them a whirl.

>>51061435
His head and right leg are in pretty unnatural positions as it is, add something that gives them reasons to be in their current positions.

>>51061439

The stuff they have for green stuff blows my mind. Like, it's so simple now that I look at it, but the idea is genius and I never would have thought of it. Another one is those plates they have that allow you to roll green stuff into ribbed cables and tentacles.

>>51061439
FUUUUUUUUUUU i regret not knowing about this before i hand carved marble designs on plaster for my bases

>>51056784
Very well done.

Anyone have pro tips for making your own water transfers?

The fucking house vyronni ones still aren't out and I'm convinced they're never coming. I'm going to make my own.

>>51062425

Best pro tip is to use high quality super thin transfer paper and a high quality laser printer. That orange peel thick sheet going through a 90's inkjet shit isn't going to cut it.

>>51062425
If you've got a good printer, simply buy decal paper and google search for the designs.

>>51062145
>Another one is those plates they have that allow you to roll green stuff into ribbed cables and tentacles.
you can use a comb for that too

>>51060449
is it the same size as a contemptor? I don't love this new model desu. It looks like a contemptor, just not as bulky and a little bit weaker

can anyone who has built a tau broadside kit tell me how 'customization' it is? I wanna modify them to look more like the old ones with shoulder mounted railguns

>>51061683
Silly little idea that popped into my head, Conquistator helmets. I don't know why, it was just the first thought I had. And I can see them wearing dusty beige and green robes for a more realistic arhcaeologist look (somehow they all manage to dress the same) I quite like that "robes are scrolls" idea you've got there, its very unique. Maybe see if you can make some servo-skulls actually writing on them as they march, logging down finds and entries as they go. The idea of an army of angry archaeologists amuses me; there better be at least one cup of tea and a trowel raised in anger involved.

>>51062508
>owning a comb

Begone, scraggly-headed pleb!

>>51062518

It's a Custodes Contemptor.

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>>51062572
looks a bit skinny compared to a normal contemptor, and saggitarus for that matter

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anybody ever try using this for custom tabletops? Trying to figure out how well it'd paint if I decided to use it.

>>51060743
Why do you call them gayhavers?

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Hey Secret Santa Anon, I sent you an email when you get a chance.

Hey, is seattle-anon here? The one who plays thousand sons?

>>51062547
Thanks mate, exactly what I'm going for actually!
I'll look into those servo skulls for sure.

>>51062532
It's not at all, unfortunately.

Here are the instructions:

http://imgur.com/a/4IiQs

>>51059044
Impressive green stuff work, looks clean.

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>>51061330
if you like modelling/converting the painting is the part of the proces that brings al the random parts together and make it a complete miniature.

from pic related

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>>51063056
to pic related when primed,

it instantly becomes one thing rather then a pile of parts. ad paint (the pic is from 2013, this thing is still sitting primed black in my cabinet) and it comes alive.

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Been ages since I painted something. Decided to do a couple Skaven war machines as a self contained project.

After fiddling around with watching a buncha different tutorials, I went with a brown spray, washing it darker, then three progressively lighter drybrushing layers.

I think I overdid the green a little, but the overall effect was improved by including it I feel, even if some of the patches are a bit large.

my friends starting a ogor army, and i have a nurgle army. our battling premise is that they have a vial of one of nurgles dankest plagues, but they're just using it to season their cookpot, and nurgles warband is invading them to try to get them to take the plagues more seriously. so my friend needs a model of some kind of ogre that appropriates a chef or butcher of some sort. any recommendations?

>>51063359
Nah, the green looks fine. Will look even better at a distance on the board.

>>51063444
I also need a model of a cauldron or cookpot and theyre proving harder to google for than i thought. there was some polish or european company that made LOTR terrain that had one, but i cant find them now.

>>51063444
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-SE/Butcher2

?

someone made a post about C. Hinaman having some Warmachine models, I'm confused about where this information comes from. Where do people see this stuff?

>>51061709
Same thing was happening to me all day yesterday on my PC. Everytime I tried to abbreviate 'to be honest' it came out as 'desu' when I posted.

>>51063567
where have you been for the last 5 months desu senpai baka

>>51053118
I wish I could figure how my external regulator worked. The knob on it doesn't seem to do anything and the instructions were from google translate and made no sense

>>51061818
its from the maleceptor/toxicrene

>>51062071
hes head is stuck that way because his armour has been crushed

As for his leg, hes trying to push himself away to free himself

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Question, is there any way to fix this or is my brush fucked?

>>51064178
use some of the masters brush cleaner

>>51064178
>2.64 MB, 4128x2322

>>51064178
brush cleaner and hope for the best

Have faith Word Bearer

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>going to my first proper games in ages tomorrow
>checking and re-checking all the models for things that need touching up
aaaaaaa

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Just finished up this Biovore. Hoping to get a lot of painting done since I'll be snowed in all weekend.

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>>51052395
What do you guys think? This is the first vehicle I've ever painted. I guess I just dont quite feel like its done.

What can I do to make it better?

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>>51064437
and the interior.

Ive only been doing this a couple of months, so by all means, tell me your secrets /tg/

>>51064437
>I guess I just dont quite feel like its done.
That's what it always feels like. Painting vehicles sucks.

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Just made this out of some foam board, thoughts?
Also it was an absolute bastard to build using like 50 different parts, I just wanna make my next one out of a solid block and carve the grooves out, anyone know any good material for it? I've read online insulation foam or styrofoam but I can't find anywhere that sells it, in Australia btw. Thanks in advance

>>51059916
>>51058223

Coming back way later, and I've thought about it some and looked at what other people did for their schemes. I think I'm gonna try and rein in the complexity a little going forward; I'm still finishing this mini as-is since I I've gone this far with it already, but in the future, less metallics (if any), brighter color, more black base, the works. Might look good, might look terrible.

>>51064486
Looks pretty sweet. Good job. Honestly I think the way you did it is the easiest way. I know I'd have trouble making the grooves look passable if I cut them myself.

As for where to find foam, I can't really help. In the US, you can find Insulation foam at almost any hardware store, but I don't know maybe building codes are different in AUS and you guys don't use it.

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>>51064486
go to a hardware store, look for foamular, or something similar to it. XPS insulation foam.

You can usually get a 2'x2', 1" thick board for cheap. Dunno if australia has that particular brand, but you guys should have something at least similar to it.

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>>51064562
>Dunno if australia has that particular brand, but you guys should have something at least similar to it.

I believe this is the Aussie equivalent.

>>51064456
>decals on the inside

Colour me impressed anon, I plastic glue all my Rhinos shut.

>>51064437
I can't tell what's going on with the recessed sections next to the headlights, but the colour there isn't flat, in a bad way.

You've also put the headlights in the wrong place, but I can only assume that's intentional, because surely you RTFM.

More highlights would be better almost everywhere, I recommend Duncan's Rhino video and just sub in the red colours for your usual Space Wolf bases and highlights (The Fang, Russ Grey, Fenrisian)

https://youtu.be/iKhIQ1TL2FM

Am I right in thinking you've tried to dirty up around the exhausts? If you were trying to drybrush you had way too much paint on your brush and you've got the classic streaky finish.

You heart's in the right place, we just need to work on your technique. I'd also recommend actually modelling the free storm bolter onto your Rhinos as a matter of course, so there are no LoS disputes.

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how do i make my mantis warriors look cool
also how do i get my own johnny hes a real cutie

>>51065032
ebay

but he costs a lot

people thought he was going to come back with the made to order, but that turned out to be a lie

>>51064995
Thanks for the critique, I'll work on the highlights

>Am I right in thinking you've tried to dirty up around the exhausts
I did, I saw an anon suggest it to somebody once but guess I fucked it up

>>51065099
whats the name of the model

>>51065153
When I found one on ebay it was listed as
>Space Marine w/ Bolter changing clip - OOP Metal - Rogue Trader Warhammer 40k

Pretty sure mine isn't legit since I paid 8 bucks, but I'm not complaining

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so whats up with the new mk2-3 and the neck being moveable
i dig the old design more why did fw retcon thisssss

>>51065246
They probably wanted to design models that did things other than look straight ahead.

>>51065246
>>51065308

http://www.getyarn.io/yarn-clip/7a1791b8-8361-4d81-8997-21a31c937dd5

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>>51065246
>why did fw retcon thisssss
they didn't

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>>51065424
???

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>>51065445
>???
What. The old pewter mk2 and mk3 suits had some helmets that weren't bolted to the chestpieces.

Forgeworld didn't retcon anything.

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Been working on a grot tank all day, any suggestions?

>>51065678
Play a different race

>>51065499
i meant more like how every suit of mk2-3 now has that joint neck instead of fixed

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Just painted this Archon, how does it look?

>>51065761
I like the highlights but hate the face.

Also, the chains could use a wash of Nuln and a drybrush of necron compound

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>>51065761
Backside

>>51065748
that's probably more due to them not wanting to make like six variants of the earlier marks

>>51065761
It's called Agrax, it ain't expensive

>>51065678

Some sort of hatch on the roof, maybe even open with a grot sticking out?

Rivets, rivets everywhere. Some random armour plates stuck on the side of the box turret. Easiest way for rivets is plasticard tubing and just slice it like you would a carrot, all be it much thinner.

Kind of a noob question, but this has been bugging me.

How small a brush should I need for painting surface details that are small, but bigger than the likes of helmet lenses?
How do I know when I have hit the limit of what's doable with a cheap, blocky brush, and what is just me needing to git gud?
Is that a false dichotomy, and should I just use small brushes until I feel like it's smaller than necessary?
Basically, I want to know at what point does a brush get too small and too fine for use across an entire army on small but not extra-small details?

>>51065983

Buy a good brush that has a sharp tip and you can use any size.

>>51066047
What kind do you buy?

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afternoon /wip/, i got the basecoats down on my rotfly, and a couple of washes. gearing up for some in-store play.

>>51066079

Raphael 8404. If those aren't available get Winsor & Newton Series 7 like everyone else. Or Da Vinci. Any high quality kolinsky sable will do. Their tips are literally the same from size 000 to size 2. I use a size 0 but you can use a 1 or 2 for a thicker brush, but if you want fast basecoating it's better to use a larger flat brush or a spraycan or airbrush anyway. Kolinskys are used with round tips for fine details.

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anybody ever nab one of these ? if so how are they

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Managed to get some more done, I regret choosing white and yellow as the main colours (so many layers) but i'm too far to stop now.

>>51064486
It looks like one of the Fifth Element stones.

>>51066420
Yellow is suffering.
Trying to do some of the "pteruges" on the BAC Praetor yellow for Iron Warriors, and it's going to take at least four layers.

Can't imagine how Imperial Fists types get on.

Is a vaccum chamber/injection casting necessary for something as simple and undetailed as a space marine? Im making a mold with oomoo 30 and just wondering if a $90 vaccum chamber is a wise investment

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I want to paint my Cataphractii in basic colors to make it look like it's never been painted for a specific legion, I want them to stand out form the rest of my army. If my army is dark blue what would you suggest? I want to do brass metallic for details but I'm not decided on the regular armor panels.
What do you suggest? I was considering basic mechanicus standard grey with nuln oil wash.

>>51066743
If you want them to really pop and look good with brass detail, you can't go wrong with candy red.

>>51066743
That could work. Making them steel won't because Perturabo is fucking lazy.

>>51066772
It's too fancy, this armor is supposed to like it's off the factory floor while not being too similar to dark blue.

>>51066782
I imagine it would be either plain metal (ironbreaker) or a greyish primer, probably glossy, to protect it while it's being shipped from Forge World to Legion.

>>51066782
Oh shit I totally missed the "basic" part. I thought you wanted total contrast. Well basic unpainted ceramite is white.

>>51066828
The guys are on snow bases so I'd prefer to avoid that.

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>>51065153
>whats the name of the model

Early Citadel adverts (like pic related) named a bunch of the Aly Morrison-era marines after the cast members from the Adam West Batman TV show. This particular model was "Brother Craig", after Yvonne Craig, who played Batgirl. When Citadel released their blue catalogue around 1990 or so, everybody got part numbers and boring names ("Bolter #10", "Meltagun", "Plasma Gun #2", etc.)...

... except Brother Craig. For some reason, he's not in the blue catalogue. Every once in a while I'll spot one on eBay. I usually post it here when I do.

>>51066895
>2.50 for 3

Fuck. Those were the days.

>>51056784
Can you provide tips? I am doing the same and I cannot get the white right.

>>51066934
The white is Vallejo Stonewall Grey, highlighted with GW Pallid Wych Flesh and then washed with various concentrations of Agrax Earthshade.

>>51066917

They're barely cheaper if you account for inflation. Plus the modern ones are way better even if they cost a bit more. Paint sets and box bundles are where GW really inflated prices.

>>51066988
Does it matter which one?
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=vallejo+stonewall+grey&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=148501550298&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=445607221104587898&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012850&hvtargid=kwd-137972803963&ref=pd_sl_2gk510bjj0_e

>>51067086
I used the Air one because I basecoat with an airbrush, but the Game Colour one works just as well if you're using a brush.

>>51067115
Just got an airbrush. May try it out once the weather passes.

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Trying to convert some age of sigmar blood warriors to berzerkers.
These models are so much better than the berzerker models

>>51056181
>>51056166
Please chip and rivet your shit

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Remember.

Anyone can improve if they try!

>>51060796

I don't know, actually. I enjoy painting, but I need a reason. Just painting the model isn't enough of a reason because if it was, I wouldn't have this huge back log that honestly will likely never get done.

My old shop closed, and I hadn't touched any of my shit until I got a game in 5 years later. However, no one here plays except once in a blue moon. Now, I'm in this limbo where I want to paint but don't because it's likely that I'll never use it.

>>51068139
>trying
lol

>>51054022
Thats one mean mean killin' machinee

>>51058713
How did you paint the blue?

>>51061435
Neat

>>51064273
Good luck and don't forget to have fun!

>>51068139
Or just give up the loyalist life and sacrifice your soul to chaos, for painting gains of course.

>>51068374

Which blue?

>>51068398
The armour

>>51068408

Primed black, then Kantor blue and hit recesses with Nuln oil, plus the inside rim of the shoulders.

>>51068374
>>51068408

Oh also, Duncan has a quick NL Video, too.

>>51064308
Terrible photo as the shadow covers all the detail.
Lower your light source and camera angle. Put a sheet of paper behind the model so we don't see anything on your desk behind it.

It kinda looks good but I can't tell.

>>51067801
They look pretty sick so far, Anon. If you could do something with the boots though, it would make them look that much better. Leather kinda stands out in world of power armour. Then again, they are Khorne; their bloodlust may sustain them through foot damage.

>>51062848
Got it.

>>51068381

Grey Knights to Word Bearers. Not much of a shift ;)

>>51065678
The barrel looks bad. It needs to be thicker. Maybe stick some of these drinking straws into each other?

>>51065678
great for a base, anon, just remember the trick to orkifying vehicles is the details. get yourself some rivets, chains, spikes, and just go wild.

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Now the greenstuff has dried im making more progress, still got a lot to do. The cylinders on the front and side are going to be hazard lights such as you find on skyscrapers so aircraft dont accidentally themselves. Need some sand paper for the next step.

Is there a scan or copy of the Burning of Prospero painting guide anywhere? cant find it in the links.

>>51069167
i have a copy and if you dont find any, i can take some pictures of the pages you want.

Im finally going to get to paint my first dudes, but I'm having trouble putting together a shopping list of paints to get started. Will I lose value if I pick up one of those GW paint bundles?

I'll be painting Grey Knights and the bundle I'm looking at is: https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Grey-Knights-Paint-Bundle?_requestid=798839

>>51065761
>>51065784

What others have said, could do with a wash of agrax and nuln to define all the detail and then a careful edge highlighting to brighten it up.

For my Archon I used reikland fleshshade on the skin cloak and it gives a really good uneven 'tanned' like affect so it looks more like old skin, the cloak on yours looks a bit flat at the moment.

>>51069238
Any Thousand Sons and Custodes pages if you can mate. I know there's warhammer tv guides but I prefer still images.

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>>51069436

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>>51069436
sorry about the quality it's the best i can do

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>>51069436
thats all the pages for custodes and 1ksons. for them being one of the main factions, it's kind of shit that they just get a one page treatment like the other 20 chapters

>>51069262
Three different brownish washes? Four different flesh tones? How much blue/grey?

Yeah, no.

I'm gonna do it guys.

I'm selling my 15 year old bitz box. This actually hurts a little. Lots of bitz from pretty much all whfb armies plastic kits. I feel like I'm erasing my past.

>>51069759
at least you have one

i have a friend who says he throws out all the parts he doesn't use

had me stuttering

>>51063056
That's literally a deffkopta and a fantasy dwarven gyrocopter kitbashed with really poor greenstuff work on it. If I had to rate creativity, I'd give it a 2/10 for mixing two helicopters to make a helicopter.

>>51063121
The more I look at this, the more it bugs me
>The "eyes" on the mask
>That he's using a bolter
>That it's a CHAOS bolter

>>51069833
>friend buys a shit ton of nids and rarely if ever plays
>gives me all his half empty sprues
>scratchbuild a carnifex out of all the shit
>get shitty with me and tells me i cant use it since i didnt actually spend money to make it

>>51070024
>>get shitty with me and tells me i cant use it since i didnt actually spend money to make it
WTF, he should be praising you for getting creative and making a monster out of spare bits...

>>51066420
It's looking good, though I'd be tempted to go a little darker in the yellow's recesses with a sepia colour.

>>51060725
I haven't seen any inexperienced modellers needing a few pounds of greenstuff to fix their plastic models.

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>>51070103
i orkified it and it underwent a couple of iterations but this was the general model. i never ended up finishing it

>>51070577
That definitely looks odd, but a bunch of greenstuff would have made that a cool "living" truck for the orks.

>>51069629
>>51069642
>>51069684

Cheers, thanks alot mate.

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>just picked up the 40 diaz daemonettes

>>51056784
Very nice.... but... mould-line running down the middle of his head....

What do you consider fairly decent tabletop quality?

>>51065678
get a different barrel. as the other anon mentioned, something thicker would be better.

>>51070840
you can clearly see what they represent from a distance and they look good when they're all out on the tabletop.
When you look closer you can see that not all details are painted in/are done pretty poorly, but overall very OK.

Look at MiniWarGaming's armies, they are almost all tabletop quality. They look great on the board but when you zoom in the models are a bit lackluster.

>>51070797
>mould lines and bolter barrel left because he's only a test model.

My actual guys will have all their mouldlines removed, don't worry. Their bolters will also be drilled out.

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>>51070840
For my dudes? Probably pic related. Broad highlights and not much effort.

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>>51062649
Because their gundrills brings all the boys to the yard.

Also it is an official warhammer empire city. Rich merchants town known for flamboyant white and purple uniforms.

>>51070910
>>51070961
Thanks dudes. I was just looking for a metric to measure whether or not my dudes were alright, and it appears my orks are higher than tabletop quality. Thanks dudes.

>>51065032
Puppetswar has a few samurai themed things, a couple of other bits sellers too, secret weapon has guardsman size heads that I can remember. I think maxmini has stuff too.

>>51060743
>bögenhafen
>>51062649
>gayhavers
What language do you derive that translation from?

The Empire is pseudo German and Bögen is the plural of Bogen, i.e. Bow. So correctly translated it would be Bowshaven or Bowsport.

Gayhavers would be Schwulhaber or something like that. Unless you meant haver, as in resident of haven, but then I think that should be havener.
I might be overthinking this.

>>51071194
Post pictures of your dudes then.

>>51071395
I would, but my (painted and assembled) dudes are quite far away at the moment.

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>>51070840
about this.

solid go at all the base painting and layers, even if not all the highlighting and shit is done.

and for gods sake, the basing

basing takes like half an hour tops for a whole squad and it looks so much better than black dicss

>>51071357
Bögen is swedish for "the gay man" and hafa is a reeealy old form of have.

So he is probably a swede.

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C&C on my tankbustas /wip/?

>>51071996
>rockets are a solid, dark red blob.
Paint the tips/ body a different color and leave the fins metallic. Would probably make a lot of difference.

>>51067848
Planing on it. Need more plasticard currently, though.

With the Tomb kings gone my lust for Egyptian imagery and mummies must be stated by necrons, I'm already working on my robot ushabti but I need help with my equivalent to the keramic titan, that duking huge ass beetle they were going to get at one point, I'm thinking of using the wardroth beetle that Arellia rides on, but I'm not sure how much bashing it would need

>>51063747
Picure?

>>51071996
Drybrush the rokkits, add variation to them and the bomms, and try some nose art? Swirls? Checkers? Dags? anything really, to make it less bland.

>>51069759
Why though??

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>>51071856
>>51070961
>"tabletop quality" is painting your figures, making an actual base, and broad highlights
I think the definition of tabletop quality that I was going by was a bit higher than most people's.
This is good.

>>51073189
My personal standards:

>pro painted
the garbage you see on ebay. You should be ashamed if you field this.

>tabletop acceptable
you've base coated and threw some sand on the base

>tabletop standard
you thinned your paints, not missed any details, and used washes. You might have even started to highlight.

>nicely painted
you kept your paints thin, did lots of highlights, and it looks great! These kinds of armies draw a lot of compliments.

Anyone can achieve this level with a bit of practice, the right tools, and an honest effort, but to go further takes a special dedication.

>actual professional
your painting is to a level where you could live off commissions if you wanted to.

>studio quality
your painting is to a level where your pieces are no longer for gaming. They are works of art in their own right. You have won awards for your painting.

>>51073001
I never use the bitz. I have bits from the very first warhammer thing I bought back when I was 14 (29 now). I'll keep some of them and sell the other thousands of bits in packs.

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>>51073440
Just out of curiosity, what level would you call this? I wonder if I could take commissions in my free time.

>>51073827
Not that anon, but at that level i'd say hell yeah.
If i could afford it, i'd have you paint my Fulgrim

which colours should i get as a beginner for the guard? there are no convenient lists that include smart colours, only the full "everything" pack and one that doesn't even have black in it
i think it'd be cool to have a grey based colour scheme instead of default cadian green but i may just do default instead since this is my first time doing this shit

>>51053688
>current year
>people still not thinning their paints

>>51073827
>that nmm
>clean crisp smooth highlights
yes you could do commissions

how fast can you reach that point? commissions are all about quick turnaround since the more you can get done at that level, the more you will get paid.

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Greetings, Fellow Kids.

I love the colour scheme on this, Are there any schemes, methods i can follow to get a similar effect?

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Huge guts, incoming.

>>51073861
Thanks anon.

>>51073901
This one is coming out fairly slow to be honest, it's the first time I seriously had to try my hand at nmm, but I'm sure I could do it faster with a bit more practice. I'm just struggling to paint the final parts because I don't know how to make the weapons interesting. Went for a little osl on the mace, and I still need to paint the cape's texture and try a nice freehand on it.

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>>51074076
>Huge guts, incoming.

Rip and tear!

>>51073440
Crap my family got me an airbrush for christmas, should I even bother with it?

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>>51073950

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>>51073827
I do local commissions from time to time and your work is better than mine.

>>51074226
While it probably won't be your main tool, it can certainly be useful in creating armies of table top ok minis. Slap on whatever the main colour will be with it, and maybe some zenithal highlighting while you're at it. Depends on what you're painting and what look you're after.

>>51074272
How do you find clients? Do you have a blog or website or do you just go to your local store and offer your services to people?

>>51074329
Necrons and after a look resembling polished lapis stone, so it could be good for the starting coat before hilights

>>51074349
Base coat definitely, and I'd say some of the basic highlights too (ie zenithal, but you can then go in and hand paint edge highlights etc as well).

>>51066536
>White spray
>Yellow spray
>Cassandra yellow/lamenters yellow
>paint medium layer yellow
>paint where most light hits with a lighter yellow
>highlight mix of yellow/white

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>>51066536
Back in the day (as in ass end of the nineties) it used to take em about a dozen very thin layers to get the white on the shoulderpads right.

>>51074272
It really bugs me how that hammer head still looks so much like a bolter, to the extent that I initially wondered why you'd have a gun on a stick

Alright lads, I'm wanting to convert a brass scorpion.

And yes, yes, the forge world one is cool. It has a lot going for it. End of the day though, I'm too much of a biology nerd to have a six-legged scorpion, plus converting is one of the biggest joys of the hobby for me.

So naturally the traditional start is the twin Defiler or soul grinder route. That certainly puts me where I want to be on the legs and claws, but the kit is pretty ancient and blocky, not too much a fan of the central body for a double Defiler grinder.

Thinking I want it to be slightly wider if possible, but more importantly to look a bit less boxy. Maybe have a slightly more defined head section.

The tail could look better too, not quite sure how yet.

Anyhow, I thought I'd ask if anyone has any ideas for making it more interesting. Willing to consider buying other kits, sourcing other parts and such. Thoughts?

>>51071996
Needs a bossnob, like the classic style bases though.

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>>51075080
Old pic of mine about halfway through it's construction.

If you need ideas

>GW tutorial with subassemblies
>"Glue it to a spare flying base"

I'm starting to honestly think they don't realize it's not common to have spare flying bases lying around, both Duncan and the army painting team boss says this

>>51075080
>Thinking I want it to be slightly wider if possible, but more importantly to look a bit less boxy. Maybe have a slightly more defined head section.
>The tail could look better too, not quite sure how yet.
>Anyhow, I thought I'd ask if anyone has any ideas for making it more interesting. Willing to consider buying other kits, sourcing other parts and such. Thoughts?
You could cannibalize Adeptus Mechanicus/Skitarii kits or have a look at third parties.
Blightwheel had the AdMech spider tank before GW even had it.
I can't say if it's gonna be less boxy, but Dust and other Weird World War games have plenty of different walkers.

>>51075685
I never glued anything to spare bases.

Just put a pin in it and you can stick in a winecork or hand drill for painting.

>>51076064
I glued Magnus to a spare base with double sided tape to paint him.

I am thinking on doing names on bases for my commanders, hqs and other.

Tau based army

So was thinking on doing the Gothic version and the Tau version.

So as an example: Brightgaze - Vre'oi'tyr

>>51076359
Forgot the question....

Does anyone have good examples on this, or how to make it look good.

If a pen is needed what kind can I get. Based in Europe.

Because no one wants to post their stuff in a dying thread.

New Thread → → →

>>51076519

>>51076384
>>51076359

This is just my personal opinion, but I don't think names on bases look good. They make it look like a display piece, and when fielded as an army distract from the actual model and look cluttered.

>>51056198
>>51056181
>>51056166
Gotta say I ain't feeling the orkyness.

It needs inherent "chunkyness" and additions that look like it's ben cobbled together form ot repaired with scrap.

As is it's just a case of "glue some junk on it and call it Orky"

>>51057974
Rule 1 of colour schemes.

Main colour: about 30-50% of the model

Contrast: doesn't' need to be diametrically opposed but something to make the Main colour stand out, equal or lower coverage than main colour.

Support colour: something near the Main colour in 2 aspects, (hue, brightness or saturation), no more than half as much coverage as main colour.

As is what you've got there seems to be a silver Main colour, "bronze" Contrast, blue Support and black/green... messing it up.
As for lens colour, a Red would contrast the blueish tone and reinforce the reddish tone of the "bronze".

>>51069988
it's a gasmask anon, it has a ffilter bit at the bottum but shitty pic is shitty. i agree on the bolter, i must have ran out of bolt pistols when i converted it. it's a necromunda ashwastes gyrocopter so he can't even use a bolter. i will switch it for a bolt pistol

i used it only two times, in both games it was a prio target and got blown to pieces, the second time it was fatal. i guess that's why i never painted it