WIP -- Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

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I just finished this Battle Boar for my Warmahordes Minions.

Pretty pleased with the overall outcome. Did a quick hairspray effect to achieve the red weathered armor parts. Had initially an idea to freehand a Cygnar icon on the cloth, as to represent a once royal banner being worn by this beast, but I fun to paint as it was, I wanted to complete him before going of to work.

c&c are welcome (aka, I'm bound to have missed a mold line or two....)

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plague riders are TASTY.
i'm happy with this conversion, especially since it doesnt require any extra sprues and it technically is still 'what yo see is what you get'

>>51036871
really nice glowing effects, mate. no real negative aspects come to mind. maybe have lightened up the face abit, for a focal point it's a bit dark, but that might be the camera and lighting more than the actual paint. what paints did you use for the glowing blues?

>>51036915

Thanks! Yea I kept the snort a bit more fleshy than the other tones, but I really like how the eyes came out.

Does anyone have the dimensions if the hobbit lake town kit?

>>51036874
don't forget to remove the "nub" where the plague-rider is supposed to sit.

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Hey wip found this online anyone know how to get that effect im gonna paint a knight soon and thought of making one shoulder/both pads like this

>>51037279
It's crackle medium like you got told in 40kg, but honestly it looks bad and will crack off unless extremely carefully handled. If you do it, I'd try to find a way to clearcoat over it until you get a smooth surface.

>>51037270
i was thinking i might paint it a rusty iron and make it look like a stake hammered into the carapace

>>51036874
suki suki ten dorrars.

i was assembling a model just now, and i was using an old hobby blade to cut up some greenstuff, and i accidentally jabbed the tip of the blade under my nail. only few millimeters deep, just enough to draw a tiny spot of blood, not enough to actually bleed. the blade is old and had a few spots of rust on it, near the base. what are the chances of me actually contracting tetanus? enough to worry about?

>>51037279
argellian earth.

Just got started painting minis. I'm going to be starting in Warmachine soon and so I've been practicing on my Zombicide minis. I just painted my first one; it wasn't too hard, but it took me forever just to do one mini. Like 3.5+ hours. It was pretty mediocre but actually way better than I thought it would turn out. So, two questions.

Does this process get any faster? I only ask because there are over 70 minis in the base game and it'll take me ages to do t hem all.

And after I do a wash am I supposed to go back over with the base color? Or is it okay sometimes to leave that slightly darker and dirty look on parts of the mini?

>>51037279
Freehand over crackle paint. Given it's a GW model they probably used GW's "Agrellan Earth" paint for the crackle effect and then painted over it.

Frankly it feels pretty out of scale for flaking paint on a knight. You're probably better off just weathering by stippling with a sponge/foam to represent paint chipping and flaking.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyuPxJG5kFc

>>51037577
You're gonna die family.

>>51037592
if you have several minis all similar, such as a bunch of identical soldiers, you can 'batch paint' like, get out the paint for their clothes, and paint the clothes of all ten at once, then the skin of all ten at once. you will get faster as you get better, but depending on how well you want to paint it up, it will always take time.

after you wash, you can go back with the base coat IF you want to, or you can just put on a layer over it, or you can go straight to highlights, or just leave it. it really depends on the exact tone you want the model to look.

if you want a skin that looks like the base coat but with some slight shadowing, going over again with the base coat is a good idea. if you want the shading to be prominent, like on a model with emphasis on dirt or dark, you can go to highlighting or leave it. it really is however you want to do it, and like any art, it's fine if you're happy with the end result.

>>51037636
I'll do a few at a time next time I paint. Plan out a few with the same color pallet and then just cycle through them while paint dries.

>>51037592
>Does this process get any faster?

Yes and no. You'll find that it takes you less time to get the same finish with practice, but you might want to go further in your paintjobs, so you could spend even longer!

On zombies, the dirty look might be just what you want, or you might want to go back and highlight. I recommend Sorastro's zombicide painting series. https://youtu.be/Xxm7Y0IJ10U

Hello friends, I want to start painting Skitarii and eventually other AdMech stuff.

Are there any tips you can give me before I get started on them? I've painted Marines for 2 years prior to this.

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Finished up the Leviathan, just need to find where I left my transfers.

>>51037577
Probably low but cant hurt to get it checked out.

>>51037789
Neat!

>>51037789
Very clean, I like it.

Well done on the blood, not overdone.

>>51037577
RIP Anon

He died doing what he loved.

>>51038072
Not being surrounded by insects.

>>51037577
>accidentally cut myself with old rusty knife
>worry about it for five minutes
>then realize the odds of this are so low it's not worth caring about

>>51037577
Keep an eye on it, it's not a deep wound and it's fine if it doesn't look like the blade left any dirt in the cut.

Tell family to keep an eye out for you having:
stiffness in your jaw muscles (lockjaw)

painful muscle spasms – these can make swallowing and breathing difficult

a high temperature (fever) of 38C (100.4F) or above
sweating
a rapid heartbeat

>>51038115
I suffer all these symptoms whenever I drop a tiny and irreplacable piece of a model on the floor

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>>51038135
>mfw my carpet is almost exactly the same grey as unpainted GW plastic

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Test paint scheme for some IG I'm working on painfully slowly.

>>51037592
>>51037636

I can echo the above, my wife collects Zombicide and has painted most of the original box, she did it like a production line. She used army painter necrotic flesh primer spray which did half the job for her in one sweep, that might speed things up for you.

>>51037789
fug that blood effect is amazing.

>>51038199
a bit dark overall, maybe have the gun or helmet a brighter colour? having the only bright part of the model being the featureless shoulderbad is a bit counterproductive, but clean work overall

>>51038199
looks cool, but i agree with other anon that the helm and weapon blends together too much

>>51037577

Are you immunocompromised or something? Honestly, kids these days. Back when I was a youngster you'd cut yourself all the time trying to hack up pewter models, and then you'd snort the lead-rich dust and think nothing of it.

>>51038220
>>51038379

Fair enough, think it would look too corny to go for a wood grain look on a Cadian rifle? Or maybe just using a lighter gray for the helmet?

Where do you usually prime your miniatures? I usually go outside but since it's freezing cold out there i can't.

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Reposting from the last thread. I'm thinking of highlighting the metallic red but I'm unsure what colour to use. Would runefang steel work?

>>51038418
Maah leave it as it is . Looks super good

>>51038418
Its kind of hard to highlight metallics like that without it looking like wear and tear, unless you highlight before layering the clear red. Personally I don't think it needs highlights, but weathering is always fun!

>>51038418
It's too late to highlight your red now, you would have wanted to prehighlight with silver at the gold stage and shade with washes at the same time.

>>51038418

That's with tamiya clear red, isn't it. I'd have thought the best way to highlight that would be on the underlying basecoat.

>>51038411
Got a shed/basement/outhouse/garage etc? Should be ok in there.

Or plan them years in advanced and prime them in summer

>>51038418
Maybe try highlighting with a solid red.

Hi /wip/, I'm completely new to painting miniatures (right now I have Bones and Necrons and will likely only be painting these for the foreseeable future) and need guidance. Do you have recommended resources for absolute beginners?

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>>51038531
The Warhammer TV Youtube channel. Duncan's pretty popular around here, for good reason.

Start with the Necron specific tutorials and then let them play while you paint.

https://youtu.be/hOvql835HcE

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First finished heavy weapon squad and a junior officer, trying out the glow effect for the first time. Cant wait to get some bigger bases for my thuddguns so i can start making more dioramas

>>51038548
Thank you!

>>51038531
Check the OP link. Has just about anything you need.
The How to Paint Miniatatures are a really good place to start reading.
Then check out the how to paint Necrons guide in there.

For Bones I'd recommend reading the forum post about preparing these models for painting. Heard some people had issues depending on what primer they used. You're supposed to be able to paint them without priming, but sometimes the materials reacts weirdly. Sticky paints and stuff like that. So go read that article on how to prep Bones.

>>51038549
Nicely executed, even if I'm not keen on the glow (that sword must be blindingly bright to cast a glow like that)

>>51038549

Dank, lipped bases work well for 40K IMO.

>>51037789
Superb. Mind sharing your weathering secrets?

>>51038418
Fugg, car paint marines look so good! Why would you highlight though? The metallics do it for you automatically

>>51038714
>Fugg, car paint marines look so good! Why would you highlight though? The metallics do it for you automatically

Not him, but the metallics auto-highlight for a miniature that's a few inches high, and by exaggerating and preshading them you highlight as if he were 7 feet tall.

>>51038548
>someone saved my shitty mspaint edit
Thank you anon, you made my day.

>>51038398
you could probably lighten up both gun and helmet with some metally silver bits, maybe brighten the casing some, maybe make the entire helmet a lighter grey
do whatever, don't do too much, but definitely make one of them brighter

>>51038548
why didn't he tell me that all of his models are primed and that i ought to do so too?

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Trying to true scale some guys. Still working on paint job

>>51038714
>Why would you highlight though? The metallics do it for you automatically

And here we have the reason NMM became so popular. Because done well it will indeed look amazing compared to un-shaded metallics.

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Another picture compared to a guards man

>>51038973
Keep practising I guess. You have a long road ahead of you.

>>51038973

Go Go Gadget extending legs!

>>51038973
THIN
H
I
N

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>>51038980
This article covers the subject really well http://www.arcanepaintworks.com/blog-1/2016/4/19/true-metallics-vs-non-metallic-metals


>>51038988
If you're gonna truescale, drill your barrels. No excuse.

>>51038882
You're welcome.

>>51038692
Sure, on the phone at the moment but I'll do it when I get home.

I don't even know why 'true scale' exists anymore. If the average man is 6 ft. and a marine is 7 to 8 ft then the models are about right now.

Some I've seen make the marine Primarch size.

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>>51038714
highlighted metallics look so much better than non-highlighted. non-highlighted is going to look very flat.

>>51038418
Where is that mini from? Prospero box?

>>51038973
his neck is way to long

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Anons, for my first Heresy army, I want to do Xana II Mechanicum. Colour scheme is apparently brass for the Cybernetica and something like this for the rest of the army, and I lack an airbrush to replicate Forge Worlds scheme. Plan was basecoat Zandri Dust, layer zameesi desert and highlight Tau light ochre, would that produce something about right?

What colour primer should I use?
Also, some of the Armour panels and shoulder pads will be dark red to break it up. Anyone know a good method for that?

Ideally Games Workshop's paints, they're the most available for me.

>>51038151
I know that feel.
RIP Kroot hand modeled onto CSM Chainsword

>>51038151
>>51039352
take a flashlight and hold it in a low angle just above the ground.
The bits will cast shadows you can see better than the pieces themselves.

>>51037577
You already got the awnser from most, but whatever
The chances of it are practically zero, if I was you I'd worry more about sepsis than tetanus
If you really think it could be an infection, just get a bit of alcohol (at least 40%, but preferably 70%), dip your finger in that for a short while and all will be fine

>>51039417
I hate my carpet so much. Flashlight thig works really well.
Usually, I don't need It. My gf has cats, as soon as a piece falls they run straight to It, sniff the thing, get disappointed It's not a plaything/food, and leave It alone.

Would it be at all possible to mount the Hellhammer primary weapon in place of the Vulcan Mega-bolter on a Stormlord? I want to do some modifications, but the Stormlord hull was the most suitable whereas I want the Hellhammer Cannon. Going to be a personalised DarkMech ride anyway, so no worries on the heresy front.

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Thoughts of my just created Lord of Plagues?
Please ignore the blu-tak, mold lines and unfiled bits on it

I just put it together in a burst of creativity

>>51039832
He looks like a lord of flies
Dope

>>51039848
Awesome, thanks
I cannot wait until i paint him

>>51039832
's nice.

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Turns out acrylic is a huge pain in the ass to work with at small scales.

>>51039832
Where's the cloak from?

>>51040151
Thanks you
The multi use kits that GW have really come in handy

Hey lads, I want to do the volcanic base using Martian Ironearth like St. Duncan told us to do

The thing is that I want to do it on my blood bowl base. Should I cut the mini from the plastic thing that goes in the base's hole or should I do the lava effect around the figure?

I recently had an idea.

How hard would it be to turn a check aquila into NL bat wings?

>>51040579

Chest, not check. Fuck

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Working on Gorechosen, really scared of doing good brass.

Any tips?

>>51037636
Be forewarned as well that batch painting is the worst for having any sort of enjoyment.

>>51037714
Paint inside the cloaks BEFORE you attach the legs. It makes it way easier.

>>51040772
Warplock bronze is a really good paint, then choose highlights to taste. Wash with Agrax.

>>51038692
>>51039043

Alright, so I used a mix of Vallejo and Citadel stuff for this but any similar colour will do. For all intents and purposes Vallejo Gun Metal and Steel = Citadel Leadbelcher and Runefang Steel.

Metal:

>Basecoat Leadbelcher
>Wash with Brown-Black shade
>Lightly sponge (blister pack foam works great) back up to Leadbelcher keeping it random and not too focused on one area.
>Lightly sponge Runefang Steel.
>Edge highlight with Steel.
>Random strokes of Steel for scratch marks with a fine brush.

Grime:

These steps are interchangeable, for some spots I did all of them, for others just the first one.

>Random spots of sepia wash, or streaks if starting around a rivet.
>(Optional) Second layer of sepia wash over the same spot.
>(Optional) Thinned layer of green-brown paint over sepia wash (e.g. Olive Drab, Typhus Corrosion, etc).
>Nuln Oil gloss for oily joints or particularly grimy spots (such as under the grill on the chest).

Mud:

>Not too thinned stippling of dark brown (Rhinox Hide) with a worn down brush, think one thats been over-used for drybrushing. Layer it up until it hides as much or as little of the surface as you want.
>Wash with brown.
>Rough application of gloss medium.
>(Optional) Nuln Oil Gloss wash (I used this for the base).

Blood/Gore:

This ones hard for me to recommend, as I don't think I used the best stuff for it, next time I'll try using UHU All-Purpose.

>Small globs of two-part epoxy (e.g. araldite)
>Once it starts drying, start pulling it from one glob to another and keep doing it until the strands don't shrink back into the blobs.
>Once dry, paint over with Blood for the Blood God/Tamiya Clear Red.
>Sparing streaks and stippling of BftBG.
>Wash of Nuln Oil Gloss in the thickest areas of blood.

And that's basically it. Hope that helps!

>>51040772
>>51040844

Warplock Bronze is quite good, but also dark. Also check out Balthazar Gold and Runelord Brass/Brass Scorpion.

Alien looking grass to go with a semi- barren Martian Ironearth?

So I've never attempted any sculpting, but I want to make some giant maggots as beast of Nurgle models.

What should I be using to sculpt an entirely new model?

>>51040239
I had to take a clipper to Mannfred's cape

>>51040921
Wire mesh for overall frame. Use greenstuff (Kneadatite), miliput, fimo, or whatever sounds good to you and some sculpting tools to do the rest.

I like your initiative. The fact that there is only a single sculpt for a beast of Nurgle is dissapointing.

>>51041048

Not to mention it's a hideous sculpt and not not even hideous-in-a-good-Nurgle-way.

Way I look at it, a big maggot is a pretty easy way to start off. Essentially just a big segmented tube that tapers at each end. Or maybe a big tentacled mouth at one end.

>>51040921

You need something strong for the frame like >>51041048 said. Also you should use grey stuff for the bigger parts of the mini and green stuff for the smaller detail work. Grey stuff is better for big areas and it is easier to file, GS is the way to go for small details.

Also if you haven't sculpted anything, prepare for the fact that your creations will really suck in the beginning. It is just like with painting, practice makes you better.

>>51041089

Oh and remember to keep your tools and/or fingers wet while you sculpt. The green stuff will otherwise get stuck on your tools and your fingers will also leave nasty fingerprints all over the green stuff. Lots of people are lazy and think that paint will cover it, but in most cases it won't and you'll end up with a shitty looking result.

Easy way is to wear plastic gloves. The thin ones.

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Working on my NL again trying to get Duncan's technique down. I used a different brush for the shoulder lightning, and I'm going to paint over the bottom and try again with that same brush.

I think it came out much better.

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I'm not a great painter and I'm not very interested in using like 15 paints for one guy. But how's this? Also, what would be a good base type to go with the brown boots?

Anyone got pictures of Raptors/Warp talons with MKIV jump packs ? really want to see if they fit together

>>51041403
Not very good to be honest.
Like on the shoulder pad your bronze doesn't even go to the edge of the chevron. It's things like that which give away not that you are a bad painter, but that you are a lazy painter who isn't invested in trying to paint a model well.

>>51041403

Looks largely alright. Although consider where rust and dirt would accumulate on the Russ. The bottom, near the treads, should be dirtier, and the top half should be rustier.

As for basing, a dark grey could work.

>>51041403
looks fine. For the base, agrellan earth with some green grass tufts would probably be a good fit, and pretty simple to do.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFvzLX8CzrA

Who else /comfywip/ here? Its currently -23 celsius outside (-9,4f for ameribros) and I'm sitting inside with a cup of tea and a Tech Priest Dominus that just arrived in the mail. Gonna be converting and maybe starting out the basecoats today.

What are you working on?

>>51041603
>What are you working on?
I just rebuilt my work space yesterday after moving into a new place.
I have to clean up before doing anything else, but I feel like doing some kitbashing.

>>51041603
-12, and fairly windy

I want to prime things but mother nature won't let me.

>>51041603

Eating some greek yogurt and blueberries, waiting for the first wash on my Death Guard marines to dry.

>>51041546
I just don't have great eyesight actually. Holding the figure in my hand, I can't really see that without seriously looking hard.

>>51041559
>>51041584
Thanks for the feedback anons.

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>>51041603
>-23 outside
I wish I had colder winters (or at least colder days sometimes). It's currently +18 outside.

I really want a comfy house in a mountainside where I can sip tea/cocoa and do various hobbies.

Currently I'm working on >>51040195, just molded it, waiting for the mold to set in the freezer so I can carve polyurethane instead of acrylic.

>>51041603
Want to prime stuff, but it's cold and blowy outside as usual. Currently scraping the worst of the yellow paint off a scragged Lamenters MK4 my friend gave me, so I can use him as a dead Son of Horus on my Imperial Knight base. I'm not properly stripping him, but most of him is grey anyway, so I thought I'd do my best before priming over and painting him green. Not used to this, can you usually prime/paint over yellow if I just want him as scenery?

Arms conveniently came off with no effort at all, so at least I won't have to paint behind a bolter.

Also got a good chunk of a WarConvo to paint, which is a pain since I'm stuck on the Skitarii Rangers. Not because they're especially difficult, just fiddly and boring.

>>51041725

Atleast you can prime outside. -23 ain't exactly rattlecan weather...

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This is my first model I've painted. Did I go overboard with the oil?

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>>51041756
And this is my second. Aside from touch ups, do any of you have any suggestions?

>>51041725
>tfw you will never own a home that comfy

>>51041768
I know it's a cliche but seriously, thin those paints.

>>51041742

I know that feel bro. Painted a half a dozen rangers for my kill team and I needed to take a break before doing the rest of them.

Hence the Dominus, which I will be demoting to an Acolyte Dominus. So from fiddly and boring to super fiddly omg-I-am-terrified-of-fucking-this-mini-up -territory.

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>>51041286

Here it is with a redone leg and some more color.

>>51041756
Slap on some matte varnish. You may want to highlight the gold, especially the edges and the little dots. And of course do some basing, otherwise you just have a guy on a black disk. The blood isn't super convincing either. I am not sure what you are doing for it, but look at Duncan's blood for the blood god video.

>>51041792
Acolyte Dominus? What is he doing/working with? Luckily my Dominus was literally the first model I ever painted, because I was an idiot, and now he looks shit but is justifiably so. If I get another Start Collecting box, I'll do the second one properly, but in my local shop of grey models he suffices. Need to get one to use his parts for converting Anacharis Scoria for Heresy Mechanicum, though. That guy is a beast.

Very tempted to buy a Maulerfiend or Heldrake to cannibalise for parts for Scoria and his Arlatax friends, but it would probably be a waste of money.

>>51041871
much obliged. My plan for the base is to have some moss, and then a couple runes, hes not attached to the base yet.

>>51041789
Not the guy who painted those, but - won't thinning paints a lot lead to transparent paint, since there's not enough pigment? For example, the runes on those stones - it's very obvious where there wasn't a thick enough coating of it because it's coming through as much more silver than the other parts.

>>51041803
It seems as if your paint is too dry and/ or chalky

>>51042057

It's probably the brush, but if I water it down any more, it will BE water.

>>51042046
That's why you do multiple thin coats rather than one thin one. You don't obscure the detail with multiple thin coats, you end up with better coverage and it's essential if you want to learn how to blend at any point.

>>51042075
Dude, if you are planning on painting lots and lots of very fine lightning, invest in a new 00 or 000 size brush and some acrylic medium.

>>51042085
>You don't obscure the detail with multiple thin coats

Not to mention that any smooth surface will remain a smooth surface instead of turning into a lumpy, scraggly, bumpy mess.

>>51041662
Same here.
How warm is good for spray?

>>51038973
HOLY FUCKING TERRA THAT IS SHIT

>>51042110

I have a GW artificer brush, but I'm waiting for my master's soap

>>51041768
pin yur taint

>>51042258
kinky

>>51042245
Acrylic medium is key. Check out dickblick, you will overpay for anything hobby branded. I put one drop into an old 17mL vallejo squeeze bottle that I use for my thinning water and that's enough, one bottle of the stuff will last you a lifetime and it's absolutely worth it

>>51042307

Does the brand matter? I think I have some from Walmart that I grabbed on a whim when I picked up a cheap little pallet.

>>51042338
I dunno, I use Golden. Can see how it goes

>>51042147
Depends on the brand, but if it's hovering around 0 and isn't too windy I can comfortably spray a few models and bring them inside to dry without issue

>>51042393

I guess I'll test it when I get home.

What part looks chalky, btw? There might be a reason.

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My Milliput isn't hardening for some reason.
I left it for around 14 hours in the press mold but when I opened it it was only slightly harder than it was when I started. I'm using Superfine White if it matters.

>>51042446
Did you mix it until it was giving off some light heat?

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Trying out some ideas, brightened the highlights on the helmet significantly and added some squad/personal iconography to see if that would make it a little less dull. I think my camera makes it look significantly darker than in reality for what its worth.

>>51042535
No? I just mixed it until the color was "uniform and free from streaks", same as green stuff.
I assume I was supposed to work it longer?

>>51038418
that's handsome as fuck. How'd you pull that off?

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>>51042443
I'm not the guy who said that but some of the transitions are a bit rough, might be the lighting but it looks like the lightning could use another very thin bright white highlight

>>51042582
Yeah keep working it a bit more. Eventually, it will be warm.
Here's my tip. Roll each colour separately into two long ropes. Wrap one rope around the other. Then rub them between your hands until mixed. Fold, roll again. Fold, roll again. Then ball it up, roll for about 2 minutes.

What are you press molding anyway?

>>51042446
Some possibilities:

1: Not thoroughly mixed.
2: Wrong proportions.
3: The press mold is sitting around 0°F.
4: Chemical contamination from some source.
5: Ancient Milliput has exceeded tis shelf life.

>>51042446
This >>51042629 or No.3 this >>51042652

>>51042593

Yea. To be honest, this is my test model, and this is my fist time with the lightning. I'll try to touch it up when I mess with the medium.

It'll definitely be better once I start using my better brush.

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Sorry for potato pic, not used to photographing minis and the like. On that note, first mini painted up. Aside from thinning my paints more what can I do to improve? Freehand painting the super fine details is kinda hard cause of tremors tho

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Tried to paint gums for the first time, how do the gums look?

>>51042766
Not trying to shit on you, if you do up a whole force with freehand you are better than 95% of the 40k playerbase, just trying to be constructive. Maybe consider using a bright icy blue with a pure white inner highlight?

I just threw down my first coat of primer on my first minis. How long should I wait before touching them to move them so I can prime their other side?

So not exactly /wip/ but I'd like to as an anon to do me a favor. I'm trying to find a way to paint a dirty grey/brown scheme for a forest without blending or using an airbrush. If someone wouldn't mind painting a patch of karak stone and washing it with athonian camp shade? Additionally if you could try it with another grey (I'm not super familiar with all the greys citadel offers) that'd be superb

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>>51036717
So, /WIP/, I'm coming close to the finish line on my exalted court. I know there are quite a few details, bits, and other stuff to polish up and finish, but what do you think of the general look of the army? Does it give an air of nobility or Knighhood?

PS sorry for the bad picture, I'm ass with cameras

>>51042838
>freehand
As opposed to...?

>>51042902
seas and seas of grey plastic

>>51042898
>barely basecoated
>close to the finish line

What?

>>51042629
>What are you press molding anyway?
I'm just trying to test out press molding in general right now, so I'm just trying to recast a combi-Melta.

Once I get it down though I plan to recast some Sabbat Pattern Power Helmets to put on my Sisters of Silence.
I also plan on recasting about a hundred or so Flesh Tearers shoulder pads to outfit all my marines.

>>51042652
>1: Not thoroughly mixed.
>2: Wrong proportions.
These seem the most likely. I only eyeballed the proportions and didn't mix them for too long.

>>51042578
I dig it. A squad with those helmets and the red stripe is gonna look great. The stripe and the shoulderpad with the skull is a great combo. I'd use that as army markings or something.
Great stuff, two thumbs up from me!

>>51042898
basing..?
You've started painting but if you want feedback you should finish more

>>51042959
Nah, aside from the feet, small metal bits on plating, and a few fixes on some parts, I'm pretty close. The picture makes it look worse than it is, especially the farther back ones.

I didn't realize how painful the armor is though, it's so flat and large that putting good detail in is hardly pheasable. I was originally going for an almost pink color on the red, but due to so few sharp curves, the edge highlighting (Emperor's Children) is barely noticeable, and I think the whole model is lesser for it.

Maybe it's just me, but applying shades to big plates never has turned out well. There's Agrax in all the corners, but nowhere else looked good.

But all that aside, do you like the basic color scheme? That's my biggest concern, everything else can be fixed quickly

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>>51042838

Nah, I'm looking for criticism, so no worries.

As for the color, my phone likes to make my photos super dark. The initial lines were done with I *think* glacial blue Reaper. It was my first time using Reaper because my shop didn't have whatever color Duncan used.

Here's the pic with the colors toyed with. I probably needed more paint on the initial line.

>>51043033
How does one Basecoat guys this big? I've always used the GW terrain but that'd be almost a bottle per Knight. What do you recommend?

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Are there bits for a sitting space marine? I wanted to see if I could have a dude sitting in the back of a rhino, preferably holding his head in his hands.

>>51043044
The colour scheme looks good to me. White and purple always works, after all. But could you post a closeup of one of them? Because from the picture it just seems like there are no recess washes, highlights or anything of the sort.

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>>51043071
Assuming you mean basing? This stuff spreads on like a paste, can be thinned with water etc, when it dries it looks like dirt. Supplement with cork chunks and whatever other little bits you want to add for flavor.

>>51042996
Sounds cool. There's someone in here that's casting an army of Mordians. Should be cool to see the end result.

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Makin a maulerfiend. Got this progress on the base. Gotta graft a necrosphinx head onto it though. Probably will have the time this weekend.

>>51043169
I really like the red, looks really smooth and nice.

>>51043169
Looks cool, but I hate bases like this.

>Be me. Imperial Guard vs Necron
>Veterans charge some Flayed Ones because sometimes stupid moves swing a game
>Flayed Ones are surrounded by Ork bodies on the base
>Diorama base killed muh immersion

>>51042835
Silly anon, is not gum

Is ork.

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How do I blend like this?

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>>51041789
>>51042258
Didn't even know I was supposed to thin it oops, it's so much easier to work with

>>51043233
very carefully

>>51043233
>>51043270

that doesn't help me

can someone please tell me the physical, manual way to minute detail how to blend like this?

or better yet link a vid

>>51043206
I guess I didn't really consider it that way. Hurm..

Oh well. Hah. The shop owner likes Imperial Fists so I wanted to do this.

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>>51043100
Sure! I'm always careful with washes and stuff to avoid what happened to the guy on the left (my first Knight from when I was pretty new to the hobby), but with him he was ugly and didn't fit with the scheme, so I decided to screw it and make him look as beaten, mutiliated, and battered as possible. The other four I've gotten in the last few months, so he's had to survive GSC, Deathwatch, and every other hell already around alone.

What do you recommend for making the right look better? I certainly see what you mean with details, I suppose I should relax a little more with trying to rush these guys to completion

>>51043119
Thanks! Im assuming it dries in a grey-ish color, so does it react well to paint?

>>51043233
airbrush

>>51043308
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=51CJFZFH5y4

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>>51043314
It's all good man, you do you. It's just a preference on my end to have more simple bases preferably rule of cool bases because it's basically a fetish, pic related to avoid taking others out of the game. It does look cool though, for sure.

>>51043383
Old Aesthetic > Modern Aesthetic

>>51043383
Yeah, generally speaking all of my bases have nothing really on them except standard stuff.

>>51043316
looks like concrete, takes paint just fine

>>51043415
High end taste anon

>>51043419
I demand you green up your edges.

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>>51043316
It would probably involve you having to neaten up all the white and purple armor panels again, but I'd do in following order:

Drybrush a bright silver - like Stormhost Silver - lightly over all raised edges of the gold armor trim.
Apply a recess wash of nuln oil wherever a flat armor panel meets the gold trim.
Put a dot of nuln oil around every single fucking rivet. (you can use a sepia wash on the gold if you like)
Also, both of the avenger gatling cannons look flat and need some more nuln oil.

Pic related is a Knight I painted following Duncan's tutorial to the letter, meaning no advanced techniques or even much time spent on it.

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>>51043335
>can't use any painting technique other than drybrushing therefore it doesn't exist
>I don't know how to paint it so it must be airbrushed

pic related might help you

>>51043383
>>51043415
good taste anon

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>>51043517
My kin

>>51043487
Does anyone have the recipe for that green? It would look great on my dark angels.

>>51043092
>Are there bits for a sitting space marine?
Land Speeder kits has two with bent knees but they're fused to the seat. Bike kits have another that are not part of the seat but they have straight legs.

so i know one guy who's super into painting. And he told me that varnishing models is good idea. Is he right? I mean I never heard about people doing that, especially on plastic.

>>51043622
yes, especially for tabletop.

>>51043573
I used Waaagh Flesh base and Warboss Green for Highlights - specifically to set the Knight apart from the rest of the army for the rare occasion I use him together with my Dark Angels.

>>51043622
Do it.

>>51043622
For tabletop use? Absolutely.

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>>51043622
> never heard about people doing that, especially on plastic.

......why would you not varnish your painted models?
I mean, if you're going to play games with them it prevents the paint from chipping, which is BOUND to happen at some point (you'll be touching them, moving them around etc.).

>>51043233
>>51043308

Glazes.

Ultra thin "washes" of paint over small areas, ever so slightly differing in gradient colour.

>>51043622
Let me piggyback on this question

I have a bunch of old terminators I painted extremely poorly when I was a kid and then covered them in matt varnish. Will stripping them actually help remove paint or are they beyond redemption now?

>>51043622
>>51043667
Just make sure to pick the right kind of varnish, depending on the model.

>>51043632
thanks a lot anon

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I decided that this year, I'm gonna put a minimum of an hour a day in for painting my minis to try and get my army finished. I was at nearly 70% done, got a pile of models for Christmas, and now I'm back to about 20%.
I'm about 3 hours total in on this Broadside, and looking for feedback on a couple specific points.
>Gun muzzle: Plain black as normal?
>Gun disc: Should I do this the same blue as the rest of my armor, Leadbelcher, or something else entirely?
>Missile tips: I've done red on other models and I'm thinking about doing them again.
>What's the best lens color I could use with this scheme? I have every primary color bright enough I could use for lenses.

Remaining to do: Abaddon Black areas, cleanup, and the aforementioned details (plus highlights if I decide I want to do them).

>>51043692
that depends:

- if they're metal, dip them in acetone for a few hours, everything will come off

-if they're plastic, you can try leaving them for a day or two in DOT-3 break fluid, or some kind of equivalent

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I figured it was about time to go back to painting Malifaux stuff, still got loads to do but how's it looking so far?

>>51043740
Probably better than anything I'll EVER paint.

>>51043729
Some are metal, some are plastic, a couple are even a mix of resin and plastic because I did some leg swaps.

I'll give that stuff a shot though, thanks anon

>>51043740
Really nice, the Malifaux I see in here makes me want to pick up a box to paint for fun.

>>51043804
It's probably my favourite range to work on, the models are so nice. Only issue is building the damn things, certain ones are needlessly fiddly

>>51043729
Break fluid should deal with any kind of paint and primer if you give it enough time, without damaging the plastic/resin, works just as well on metal ones.
Usually leaving them overnight is fine, but if you're dealing with a lot varnish I recommend at least 24 hours before checking

>>51043828
Were the dreamers in here a couple of months ago yours as well?

>>51043233
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2G9CEdURNQ

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>>51043941
Maybe, heres a pretty old picture of my crew. I know theres someone else on here with a really nice Dreamer crew so it could have been them.

>>51044036
I think I'd combined the two of you into one person in my head, I was definitely thinking of some of your minis. Glad you're working on more.

>>51043763
>>51043729

>Brake fluid

Fuck off it isnt the 90s anymore. That stuff is awful to use and dispose of.

For pure metals, acetone is good yes, but it will destroy any plastic components you leave in with them.

As a first time stripper I'd recommend doing all your metals and plastics in either Dettol in the UK/Commonwealth, or Simple Green in the USA. Google all the various guides. They won't harm your stuff.

Resin is a completely different beast and susceptible to damage.

>>51043071
Just go outside and get actual dirt or sand.
Mix with pva glue and craft store paint.
Never buy GW basing materials again.

>>51044127
>resin vs. plastic
How do I tell? Also, what would I use for resin, then?

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>>51044127
>Fuck off it isnt the 90s anymore.

Yeah whatever you say kid, go use your simple green or kool-aid, or whatever you kids use these days.

Seriously though, I don't know what you're on about, I've used DOT-3 for all kinds of miniatures and never had any problems with it.
Just pour it into a jar, throw your minis there, close the lid, done.

>>51043992
this tutorial is amazing... as a beginner, would it serve me well to try to emulate him as closely as possible or is it just going to be a disaster and hold me back?

>>51044576
*done*

And once you take them out, just clean them under a running water with a toothbrush, that's it.
Or is it too complicated for you americans?

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>>51038531
well heres one i painted, was a bit of a failcast, but i fixed what i could. just to show you that silver is not the limit

What's the best box/kit to get for Chaos bits? I'm starting a Renegades and Heretics army for Unending Host, and I'm going to be converting Skitarii and GSC alongside third-party models (and of course, the Dark Vengeance cultists). I haven't collected anything Chaos up to this point, so my box has no Chaos stuff whatsoever.

>>51044302
Use a heavy degreaser. completely stripped a fw tank yesterday after an hour soak, it works on plastic as well but leaves it stained.

>>51044664
Being good at something is 90% giving enough of a fuck to try.

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So I just finished making my first Jokaero Weaponsmith count as.

I went about making this model thinking "what if a skaven thought he was an ork?"

And so far I like it, I just need to wait for the greenstuff to harden so I can scrape the extra superglue off.

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>>51044801

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>>51044825

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Wip zealots

>>51043383
I love how this image tricked my brain into thinking I was looking at a 2nd Edition era army.

What is the most professional Plague Marine painting tutorial out there, if there is one.

>>51044898
what are those from?

Also I like the blue robes, nice color choice.

>>51043740
Looking forward to seeing this finished.

>>51044933
Warmachine. Menoth faction

Thanks, thinking of doing a marine army with it

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>>51038549
Fuck you got amazing krieg dudes. I hope I can get as good as you anon.

>>51038549
those are amazing, the colour palette makes me think of ww1 propoganda posters

>>51038418
What are you using for snow?

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>>51044720
Depends on what else you want in your list, afaik Unending Host is just a bunch of cultists + a few other 0-1 slots. The real problem with cultists is that if you're going with a giant horde of dudes, using all GW cultist models will look really samey because there are only like five 7 different sculpts or something not counting the flamer/heavy stubber models. I guess you could use a bunch of different guardsmen too. There aren't really any CSM boxes with a buttload of extra bits, I tend to just buy special weapons etc. in bulk on ebay.

Working on some cultists of my own, just waiting for base material to dry to add some stuff to it.

>>51045464
Roughly accurate, yes. My Unending Host is 180 cultists, 5 Disciples, my Arch-Demagogue (who's actually being built as a Heretek Magos, but is still Master of the Horde), 3 Earthshaker artillery carriages, and a Baneblade. I've got sources for the Disciples and Earthshakers, and there's no other way to do a Baneblade than the Baneblade itself; the issue is, well, 180 Cultists.

>>51045533
You can use some flagellants for more variety, and use Frostgrave cultists as well. Just get some arms from Cadians and the like and you should be set.

>>51044720
>>51045464
>only like five 7 different sculpts or something not counting the flamer/heavy stubber models.
Northstar Miniatures recently released a sci-fi conversion set for their Frostgrave cultists.
Would be a pretty could way to break up the monotony if you cut the GW models apart and kitbash them with the Northstar ones.

Noob problem here, I'm having trouble with priming. So I'm spraying my models (Chaos Black primer) from 30cm away with quick, short bursts but the result is a sort of "speckled black" look with the plastic still somewhat visible underneath.

Multiple goes at this stops the plastic showing through but the coat doesn't have the perfect flat look of normal primed models - it's still somewhat speckled. However, if I try and hold the spray for longer or move a bit closer then the coat becomes too thick and it starts obscuring the detail.

Is the primer getting old? Am I fucking up the technique? Is it the weather (very cold where I am)? Is this actually normal?

>>51045575
sounds like the can could be nearly empty, or maybe you didnt shake it enough? humidity affects it, too, but high humidity usually causes the primer to dry midair and kind of clump on with a grainy texture, yours sounds differene.t

>>51045575
>Is it the weather (very cold where I am)?

Most likely yes. You should generally be spraying paints and varnishes between 55-77 Fahrenheit, under 50% humidity. It says this on the can. Humidity can especially fuck up your miniatures with spray varnishes like Purity Seal, covering them in a milky film. It might cause the primer to form a grainy surface which is what sounds like is happening to you.

Help me /wip/.

I recently got a new airbrush hose to replace an old one that got a hole in it, but the connector isn't the right size to connect with the airbrush. Is it safe to just get a 1/8th to 1/16th connector? or will that cause something to go wrong?

I get really nervous around pressurized air.

>>51045619
>>51045658
Thanks for the quick answers. The can's relatively new and I'm shaking like a beast, so it must be the weather. It's been cold, humid and a little windy the last few days so it might well be that.

Would the paint-on primer work best instead?

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So 40kg didn't help me out at all with this - do you all got any pictures of neat barricades I could make? I don't like the barbed-wire-and-corpses ones, honestly; it seems that defenses are sorely lacking unless it's like a building or something.

>>51045658
could you say those temperatures in another unit? i don't understand swampfucker.

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>>51045895
Here's something similar to what I mean.

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>>51045742
Brush on primer works okay, from my experience using 1) GW Imperial Black Primer and 2) Vallejo White

1) GW Imperial Black tends to separate solids from liquids, every pot I've had did this and it might seem like your pot is ruined, but still usable. Whenever you want to use it, just take an old brush and stir it all together, making sure you get the right mixed consistency on the brush. You'll know how it's supposed to look through trial and error.

2) Vallejo White is mostly fine, except for the problem I have with both primers below.

With both Imperial Black and Vallejo White, it can be difficult to get a smooth coat, and for some reason it tends to make your model look like the paints are too thick even if they're thin. Maybe it catches too much on edges or something. Picrel is another cultists I did with Imperial Black, and it looks worse IMO compared to >>51045464 (which is Vallejo white but still had difficulties getting it smooth) but the difference is subtle. Other people have this problem. I posted about this yesterday and some anon recommended using Gesso for brush on primer, so I'm going to try that. This youtube video convinced me that it might be a better idea than usual brush on primers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6JiC5QX3bQ

I still use the spray paints/varnish for other stuff though. If the weather is shit I spray inside, BUT there are a lot of caveats to doing that. Breathing in spray can shit can be terrible for your health, so I put a fan by the window and open all the doors etc. and leave for a few minutes after. And of course you have to set it up so that you don't end up with spray droplets on the floor, walls, etc. Make sure you're holding the can about 12" away with short bursts to cover everything.

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>>51045925
I'd like to make this one but maybe a bit thinner so I can put units directly behind it.

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skink starpriest done! fun little mini to paint, now it's back to making rivets for my land raider

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Finished this old Ironbreaker I had lying around.

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>>51045895
take this
>>51045925
this is mdf scenery you can buy.
There is a neutral, imperial and chaos variant of it.

Hey /wip/, I'm about to start work on my pre-heresy 1kSons, and I'm thinking I'll do the clear-coat read over metallic scheme, but I'm wondering, are the FW airbrush paints any good? I already have Tamiya, but in my experience it's come out a bit thicker than I'd like when airbrushed, so I was wondering if they might be better suited to the purpose

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>>51045935
warmill make a variety

>>51046035
>>51046065
Oh, that's neat. Thanks.

>>51045926
Cool! Forecast says that the weather will stay naff for a while but I'm itching to continue so I'll look into those brush-ons. Never heard of Gesso before but I'll weigh up the options. Thanks all!

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>>51045994

>>51045994
Paint your gravel m8

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So, it's going to have at least -10°C tomorrow. Can I still go outside for priming, or will the low temperature fuck something up? I don't think so, because I'm outside only for a short time, but I'm not quite sure.
Please help /wip/

>>51045994
>>51046154
I like what you are doing here.
Might be the picture, but I feel like his skin, especially his face is almost too white.
If you look at picture of albinos, you can see more of the skincolor show through. Adding a bit more of the scale pattern with the skin color, especially around his 'lips' would help that impression imo.

Dig the colorscheme with the black feathers though.

>>51045926
>>51045742
>>51045619
What exactly IS primer, and why do I need to put it on before painting? I've never painted any figures before.

>>51046237
It sticks to the model, so paint on top of it can stick to the model.

>>51046237
Think of it like this:
Paint is basically a layer of stuff that goes on top of a surface. The problem is it has to stick to that surface to stay on. Plastic is incredibly un-sticky. The only really effective way to stick anything to plastic is to use solvents so it fuses to the plastic. Obviously, painting with something that has solvents in it won't be good in the long run, so the easy compromise is to have a layer of solvent-based paint with good adhesion to other paint as your starting coat. That's primer.

>>51044918
Guess GW has a few.
Tale of painters is also a place worth looking at for tutorials.

Professional is kind of a loaded term. It just means sombody earns money with something.
So... that does say nothing about quality or style.
With that definition in mind you'd probably paint as quickly as possible and find a good compromise between time and quality.
Probably something like prime white, wash a few greens and yellows, paint the weapons rust, apply metal to where the paint chipped and then add some details to make the models look finished.

>>51046246
>>51046283
Thanks for the explanation

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Has anyone played with Skullcrusher Bronze? I need a gold that is bright yellowish like Imperial Fists yellow, but clearly straight Retributor Armor won't do the job.

I ordered some models a week ago but they haven't even started shipping yet. How do I resist the temptation to buy more models? Aside from knowing that I would get them until march at the soonest?

>>51046354
Try a super bright silver with a yellow glaze

>>51044918
>>51046317
As mentioned, Duncan's painting tutorials on the Warhammer TV youtube channel are good. One thing I really like about them over other videos though is that they aren't some boring faggot droning on and on forever and showing you a bunch of irrelevant shit after begging for Patreon donations. Duncan videos show you just enough so that you know what you need to do without having to spend 15 minutes listening to some dude ramble as he paints every single detail of his mini.

And Games Workshop media is about as "professional" as you can get considering they are *the* major establishment in wargaming and define much of what the hobby has become.

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>>51046158
thnx for the tip, i shall give it a wash and a drybrush to make ik look more real

>>51046235
thnx anon! taking pics of white models is not my favourite thing to do. i googled for inspiration and some albino lizzards where almost pure white on their top, that's what i tried to paint. the lower half of the face is painted in flesh/pinkish witht the mouth as seperation.

what do you guys listen to while painting?

>>51046427
fritz40k tactics videos and lindybeige historical autism

both of those guys are contentious to some people, but I enjoy having them on in the background

>>51046427
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wy4IsC5eb7o

>>51046427
Neo nazi podcasts.

>>51046427
japanese language learning

>>51046427
music and podcasts, according to my personal tastes, which are probably pretty different to yours.

Did GW intentionally design these fucking tall wash bottles so i would spill them every fucking time?

>>51046427
I've taken to The Joy of Painting of late. Its just so damn peaceful and encouraging, even if what I'm doing is nothing alike to what the show's actually doing.

>>51046519
v nice
>>51046676
do share if you dont mind

>>51046752
nah, this aint /mu/

>>51041721
For the exact reason of bad eyesight when looking at models, I have a pair of glasses. I don't need them to read, unless the print is super tiny. Just for painting.

>>51041403
>>51046866
just get some $5 reading glasses from the dollar store like old people use to read newspapers

I used to be damn near legally blind until I got PRK eye surgery. Now I have 20/20 vision. PRK is like LASIK but LASIK makes a permanent flap in your eye (that heals over) that can become dislodged which spooks the fuck out of me so hui to that. With PRK they just take this electric toothbrush looking thing and sand the front of your eye down flat, then shoot the lasers in. It grows back later. PRK is less popular because it has a much longer recovery period (6-ish months) which is somewhat painful and might make you miss work, but man the idea of LASIK is all of my nope. Both surgeries carry some risk though. PRK used to be much cheaper too, idk about now.

>>51046866
>>51046947

also I forgot to mention that that painting isn't really bad, it's fine for tabletop standard. should do some basing on the infantry tho, miniatures regular black bases are like wearing a suit with tennis shoes.

>>51046169
now that there's a good looking Mountie!

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Bought some little military vehicles on a whim. They're 1/144 scale but I don't have any interest in FoW. Any suggestions for something to do with an itty bitty tank?

>>51047107
Ork them up. Somehow.

>>51047107
Technically FoW uses 1/100 scale tanks, but 1/144 planes.

Add a lot on to them to make them Grot Tanks.

>>51047107

I have a couple like that, little Russian sets I got when a store closed. Give them a little bit of love, practice your weathering and simple freehand.

>>51047133
They're Revell, came with two each of a tank, APC, and truck. I'll be doing something with a truck definitely, make it a gun truck or something.
>>51047131
Hm, but they're really super tiny, I don't know if I could even fit a grot on.
>>51047133
Probably do something like that with one of them, they're really inexpensive and could manage it.

>>51046427
dan carlins Hardcore History podcasts. learned more about the ancient and modern world from him than i ever did from books (and i read a shit ton of books)

recently i got netflix and now im brawling through the original star trek series. it's engaging enough to keep my mind occupied while i paint but not so action-packed that i miss shit from having my eyes on my models.

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For the generic big evil bad guy D&D.

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Stupid image saved in the wrong resolution, here's the right one.

>>51046498

>fritz40k

My man.

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>>51046035

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Base-coated some BA.... not for 40k, so the 'off' paint scheme is ok.

>>51038988

You know that the models are already truescale, right? A Marine in armor is only 7 feet tall.

>>51045994

Great concept, okayish execution. The white on his head is very chalky, you need to start darker and bring these browns more into play. Also gold needs more depth and more layers on some parts (mainly the face again)

>>51038973
W-what are those spider-web-like things covering it?

>>51041725

Rich people make me fucking depressed

>>51041603
In the UK... haven't had a Winter yet this year... I mean... it's 2 Celsius out there tonight...

Slightly worrying 'cause I'm so used to it being -8 at this time of year.

>>51047607
Why?

>>51045533
I second the Frostgrave Cultists. IIRC, Statuesque miniatures do heads and weapons sprues that work well with them.

>>51047715

Guess why, because they have nice shit, that might be unobtainable for me.

>>51041603
I'm working on my New Years Bingo card, just finished up the "repaint a badly painted ebay mini" with an Iron Mother Directrix. No pics because my phone is a potato, but what can you do.

>>51047738
Then figure out how to get up there - start a business, learn a trade, become an apprentice, make YT videos, etc. etc.

>>51047777

Nice quads- No assets, no business. I am trying mate, but in my sobre moments I feel a bit disencouraged.

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>>51047801
Thanks. I don't know how to help you out, but if you put your mind to it, I don't doubt you'll find something you can do. If you're any good at painting, take commissions. If you're good at building terrain, see if your LGS has players who have spare cash but no creative skills. Live in a forest? Make some wood carvings. Live by the beach? Make those sand-in-a-vial things people go nuts over.

Good luck. I habeeb in you.

>>51047551
>A Marine in armor is only 7 feet tall.
marines vary from 7-10 feet tall.

Has anyone else had this problem happen with their bottle dropper style paints? I've been using Vallejo Model Color and Army Painter Warpaints and they've always been fine. VMC is medium thickness and AP is very thin and runny but with great pigment and coverage.

Then recently I purchased one bottle of sky blue from VMC and one bottle of grey from AP, and they were THICC AS FUCK. Like molasses. I had to thin them a lot, which worked but was annoying. I was wondering for months why they were so thick.

Then today I said fuck this shit, I squeezed out like 10% or 25% of the bottles because I could hear them when I shook them that they were watery on the bottom, and lo and behold, the paint at the middle/bottom of the bottle is perfectly thin.

Did they just get frozen in shipping, did the top of the bottle get thicker for some reason?

Is it possible to mix some color in with the GW shades? Like if I wanted Drakenhoff Nightshade to be slightly more blue and purple so it gives that slight color to the shaded metal, could I do that? I'm a beginner btw.

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>>51047872

Thanks dad. Uplifting words are appreciated.
I am good at painting but in central Europe there is neither a beach nor a way to easily purchase land in the forests. Also you compete with slavs who take on comissions for a slave wage, because of their low living costs.

I do an internship this january and plan to start my master in international business management in the UK this september, and that's enough of me blogging now like a fag.

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>>51047973

>>51047994
Ayooo

>>51047878
more like 7-7.5

guys like alberec and polux are way outside the norm

>>51047973
If you want, feel free to give me your Steam or something so we can chat a while if you want someone to talk to.

Nice figure. The wrap on the boots and sword handle turned out well.

>>51047551

Marines are 8 feet tall.

If you start the scale at 1 like GW :^)

>>51048016

Sure, bro. My steam name is dynastyx285, add me whenever you wish. I am probably going to sleep asap though, it's 4:30 am and I am only awake that long because of a flu.

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>>51048089
Hrm, no results for a name like that - if I remove the numbers, I get 21 hits though. My name's in pic related; there's way too many hits for my name but I was lucky enough to get a custom link.

>>51048135
ah shit, my name is actually blutjung... sent

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Tankbustas are ready for basing.

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>>51048399
Why the fuck can I never take a good picture.

>>51048424
i dont know anon, it might be the same reason you cant do a nice paintjob
i kid

>>51046680
FUCK

>>51048687
Well, since GW ain't an American company, they're not legally forced to make their products retard proof

You need at least an IQ of 90 to try and use paints.

>>51048687
I've fuck wasted half a bottle of drakonhof because of the lid design and lack of weight.
It's a bitch to clean up too.

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>when the boss gets eated and you get promoted to rotfly rider even though you're a nurgling

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>>51049131
On the subject of Drakenhof; I'm trying to get a deep-blue-metallic color from platemail primer and then successive layers of drakenhof blue. Instead, I've gotten an iridescent black with just the barest shimmer of blue when the light catches it right. Right is the guilty culprit with twelve layers; to the left we have only two or three, and they're a little more silver-and-blue-and-black mottled, but not necessarily more colorful.

Is there a better way to get vivid blue with a metallic shine?

>>51049207
have you tried a glaze? shades are nice but they dont really make the colour prominent. also, citadel brought out some new paints designed for gemstones, a technical. theres a red one, and i think a blue. I used it to give my thousand sons a red colour that had a bit of shine to it, you could try those maybe. they recommend using them over a silver base to get an easy gemstoney colour. might work for you.

>>51049250
Can you offer me a name? "Blue Glaze" is something I can work with, but something specific would be nice.

And is there a special technique for it? Or just 'paint on like anything else'?

>>51049329
you have Guilleman Blue for the glaze, and the technical is i think soulstone blue

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Just finished another batch of making my own flock. It's a nice way to keep yourself busy while paint is drying and it saves you a ton of money if you do it right. This wheat color is gonna be used for some terrain pieces and it's gonna go on the bases for my new Tyranid army.

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>>51049329
this is how the red gemstone paint looks over a basecoat of mephiston red, which was probably overkill. but it gives you an idea of the shininess.

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>>51046680
>>51049131

Do this and never look back, friend. The GW pots are horrible, especially with inks.

>>51049396
Oh my word, that's beautiful.

>>51049363
What's the difference between 'glaze' and 'technical'?
I picked up a pot of Soulstone Blue just because I needed a blue and thought the color was pretty.

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>>51049459
Oh, and just in case, because this weird black-blue has grown on me strangely; could you recommend anything to compliment this? Even though it's basically "black with streaks of blue", I was thinking of a copper for some details, but feel like maybe gold would be an acceptable secondary color to the blue?

>>51049459
glaze is like a wash, but it isnt as runny, and is intended to sit on flat surfaces instead of running into recesses. it's intended use is to help blend colour tones underneath it, or to subtly change the hue of of the paint beneath it.

technical is GW's catchall term for any nonstandard paint, like primer, or texture paint.
these gemstone ones are new, and a redshirt at a store told me it's pretty much a glaze mixed with 'ardcoat, which is a citadel pot of shiny gloss varnish.

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started a thousand sons contemptor today then found out i have no green stuff but this is what i got so far

>>51049489
thank you based anon. It sounds like it may actually be possible to do what I'm imagining, though it might take restarting. That said, one more pot isn't too expensive famous last words and I'll try it on something and decide what I think before I decide on whether to abandon dappled-black-blue altogether.

>>51049459

The glaze is a glaze. The technical is a Tamiya clear style paint.