WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

Im gunna samefag my question from the previous thread and ask if anyone has or knows where to get a hold of the burning of prospero how to paint guide.

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>>51100429
i dont know if a scan is up but i can take photos of my copy of any pages you like

it's daytime now so they'll be clearer than this one

>>51100429
people have posted scans of every page before, but I dont think anyones been non-lazy enough to actually compile it.

does anyone want to buy some krieg? i have some autocannon teams and an advancing infantry squad that are all on sprue in packaging, i never got around to them and i'd be happy to sell them at mates rates if anyone was keen. i'm in sydney, australia.

>>51100504
>>51100429

I'd appreciate it, guys. Thanks. I'm really only interested in Viking Von Powerclaw Guy.

I'm going to be looting a coffee can and making treads instead of legs for it.
Any suggestions for a mekboss here? It's going to be my first big scratch build.

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>>51100720
1/2

So im having trouble with primer. Picked up an army painter can and its coming on thicc. Any tips? All ive used before is the geedubs primer.

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>>51100830

>>51100834
Spray father away.
Also, get a airbrush. Airbrush priming is far better.

>>51100834
in my experience i've found army painter cans to be really thick. you have to just be really light and careful when using them. their metallic leadbelcher equivalent especially. i dont think theres any real way to get around it, either, it's just a lot thicker than automotive primer or the like.

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>>51100671
Fuck I'm in sydney too and i just bought one of those squads.

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>>51100946
i bought a platoon and a couple of forgeworld tanks, but since I cant pay my rent on wednesday i'm trying to shift as much as possible. so if you want some assembled and painted stuff, i can let it go for like, half the price on the site

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Finished my fix-up job on The Orkin Man, my ABG Vanquisher. I was inspired to make him unique after seeing just how mean he is in combat.

New things:
>Hunter-Killer Missile
>Pintle Stubber
>spare tracks/extra armor on front glacis plate
>reserve fuel barrel
>comms antenna
>rear stowage bin w/ jerrycans
>custom insignia
>assorted painting tuneups and fixes

No kill markers. Not yet. From now on, he'll have to EARN his stories.

>>51100671
Got any tanks?

>>51101177
Looks awesome, I love all the added bits, really brings it to life. In addition to kill markers, you should add some battle damage, check out scalemodelmedic on youtube for tutorials.

>>51100994
Very tempted to buy a russ or two but my licence is suspended right now so i don't think i could get any money to you by Wednesday.

>>51101276
He'll get THOSE when he DIES.

HE HASN'T DIED YET.

>>51100830
>>51100842

Thanks.

>>51100834

Move the can across the model faster instead of just standing there hosing it down for hours on end, fatass.

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>>51101177
Nice and clean!

Reposting my Valkyrie cockpit that I finished up today.

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>>51101230
>>51101284
i have an unpainted russ and a poorly-painted russ, both assembled, and an unpainted chimera converted to a krieg themed command chimera.
I'm so broke i cant afford shipping but if you're happy with 40-50 aud a vehicle I can bring them and meet you at a train station or something. most of the sponsons have their weapons out so you can put in whatever, and i'll chuck in the part sprues as well.
and sorry to everyone else for chewing up the thread with selling shit, i wont do it again.

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>>51101760

>>51101799
breh i'll buy that for the price of a regular russ.
You want to give me an email or number?

>>51101760
>That Mars-pattern hull
>open sponson mounts so I can smack whaterer I want in there
>that trophy nid limb

Oh goddamn do I want that. But...it'd be a sin to strip that paintjob, and >>51101177
is my camo scheme.

That and I'm American and if you can't afford shipping, that's that.

>>51100862

I disagree. Sure its easier to apply as you don't need to be outside (or in a very well ventilated area). But when you look at it, the spray primer does tend to stick way harder than any ab primer I have yet to try, and I have used my ab for a good 8 years now, always waiting a good 24h for it to dry and all those small details as to get the "best" result with an ab-primer. It still cant compete with the good´ol GW spray can.

>>51101828
[email protected]
email me through your address and i'll send you some closeup shots from every side of the model, to make sure you're happy with it

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Can't wait to get my teeth sunk into this beautiful thing. (SM was for scale)

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Deathwatch Snipers nearly done. Just need the librarian and terminator. Deffwotch in background.

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calling this guy done, so you can look forward to not seeing him in every thread

next up is another model almost identical though so look forward to that, anyway.

Regarding light and shadow, should I treat Cadian shoulder armour as a sphere or cylinder, WIP?

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>spend hours getting your stuff up to tablet top quality
>don't actually play with your models.

I feel so bad I can't find time to play.

>>51102722
ok put the masking tape down

seriously though very good work... and highlight your metallics

I know this is a stupid question, but can i use normal plastics glue for cardboard? I want to make an attempt at some scenery, but i dont have PVA and im not sure if that is even suitable? Googling didn't help

>>51102856
Nope. You can use PVA or superglue.

>>51102863
time to find the superglue! Thanks

>>51102856
>>51102863
hot glue works really well for scenery too

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Working on some models for a Rogue Stars squad.

>>51103028
So where were the spiders, while the fly tried to break our balls

>>51102863
Will superglue work for cardboard to plastic to wood?
>>51102879
dont have access to a glue gun!

>>51103108
if you use pva glue for wood, it has a tendency to bend the wood, like balsa wood for example. i think its because it's water based, or something.

>>51103120
basically i have a combination of wood bits, plastic bits and cardboard that i want to use for scenery, but i have only a very small amount of super glue, and a lot of plastic glue, and nothing else.
I'm trying to figure out if i need to buy something, and if so - what

>>51103108
a hot glue gun is 8 dollars on amazon. the glue sticks your feed into are also really cheap

>>51103165
im not getting a glue gun... $8 is a big ask for a tube of glue

>>51103203
a bottle of elmers will set you back 5 or 6 on its own...

>>51103211
i mean, thats still less that $8 + shipping! for something i wont really use!

>>51103251
if you make a lot of scenery it will end up being really useful, but whatever

get yourself a big bottle of elmers glue all from your local hardware store.

Lemme see your skeletons

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>>51104231

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Made a start on a nihilakh dynasty Necron overlord. Still a long way to go but I'm happy with the colours so far!

>>51105611
Good job, but I always pictured Nihilakh as having icy blue glowing eyes done up with the Oxide. Hoping you'll go for that.

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trying to decide what chapter to paint the reinforced ram

>>51105768
Ultramarines of course.

>>51105768
Imperial fists?

Or paint him the color of someone you either play against a lot, or know well, or are friends with.

Or the store dick.

>>51100862
surely compressed air pushing paint is the same in both forms? What is the difference?

>>51105855
Seeing as rattle cans don't use compressed air, I'd say they aren't the same thing

>>51105768
I love that termie. he looks so natural

>>51105855
rattlecan primer is generally solvent based, rather than acrylic, that does change some properties of the paint and how it responds to things.

>>51105929
I see. Thanks!

>>51105768
Crimson fists cause they were btfo by orks?

Hey secret santa americanon, UK Lincoln Anon here. Just got home and I think royal mail have lost your gift. They've taken my number, but just to explain why I haven't posted pictures yet.

>>51100753
rip a soda can to strips with your mouth. glue those to the can for details and and then rivets.

>>51100994
put them on ebay. britfag here. Cannot simply waltz to the house of upside down.

>>51105768
Blood Angels. The red will help it go faster.

>>51105768
lamenters, minotaurs, ultras, someone you hate, a chapter that contrasts the trukk's shceem.

>>51105768
Imperial Fist. The yellow contrasts well with the black. Bonus point if you name the tank "da beast"

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Just finished painting my two boxes of BaC, all thats left to do is some grass tufts

>>51106966
Respect, anon. How long did that take you?

is there anything I can coat styrofoam with so it doesn't get melted by glue or spraypaints?

>>51107034
Watered down PVA, several coats.

>>51107034
PVA should work

>>51103203
Holy shit. This forum has an age requirement.

Given the choice, I would pay you 8 dollars to not post this exchange and save me the the *cringe*

>>51107047
great, thanks!

>>51103108
good superglue will glue anything to anything else
i'm not exaggerating
but it's hard to find superglue that good.
in my country it's only some cheap obscure brand that makes such glue. not all thoses Moment and Super or whatever they are called, well-known superglue. Moment in particular just sucks.

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>>51101655

>>51106966
> that great clean look
Hats off anon. Well done

>>51106966
>clean death guard

I just don't like it. Technically proficient yes but Death Guard should be stained and worn, not shiny and new.

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>>51106297

Nice.

>>51107007
I believe I posted the first 5 terminators almost a year ago!

>>51107102
I think so too, im just scared to fuck them up by weathering them

>>51107215
Paint a few tester models and then try out some weathering techniques on them. Here's a tutorial for DG that looks pretty good.

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/276221-sons-of-mortarion-pre-heresy-death-guard/

>>51106966

Nice, very nice.

>>51106966

Remember Death Guard armour does not arrive from the Forgeworld, chipped, caked in mud and battle scarred.

They had to have a first battle at some point!

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Owo what's this

>>51107312
it's a bawx
so a gift for ye cat plus some random plastic inside

>>51107312
Congrats, you've just doxxed yourself as well as the anon who sent you your gift.

>>51107312

Finally, your dragon dildos have arrived.

>>51100671
If you are still selling some stuff (especially the tanks etc) and if you are willing to send the stuff in europe i would be greatly intrested

>>51107312
It's your address posted openly on 4chan, Joshua.

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Ty Massachusetts anon

>>51107370
>>51107357
Pls send me dragon dildos

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>>51107312
>doxxing yourself

>>51107366
i wont be able to do international shipping until i actually have some cash, but if i have some cash I dont know if i'd need to sell them. either way, if i do i'll notify the thread, but it probably wont be for a week or two.

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A dangerously furry beast lady, and a sorceress ish lady that will end up in my frostgrave games.

>>51107312
I'm going to cum in an envelope and then put a "PRIVATE DOCUMENTS" stamp on it and send it to you Josh.

I might even put an NHS return address on the back.

Enjoy your post paranoia.

>>51107312

You've really fucking blown it this time Josh.

>>51107400
>A dangerously furry beast lady
Quite curious about where this came from

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>>51106297
>tfw you didn't buy tiddy daemons when they were on sale

Nice paint job by the way

>>51107415
My sides. Good thing I'm in a private office today.

>>51107400
>breast lady
fixed that for you

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Some cadians, a Deldar beastmaster, some clump foliage, a hand drill, some iron warrior upgrade sprues, some base rubble, and a bag of resin rubble faces.

Thanks Anon! Only took the royal mail two weeks of losing and then repeatedly finding it to get it to me

>>51107430

> As if anyone on /tg/ would actually do anything anyway.

What was in the box anyway?

>>51107397
alright, there is a friend of mine that is also looking for some krieg stuff, we could pay the shipping and so forth, i will send you an email when and if he tells me that he's intrested too.

>>51107436
A guy that maybe doesnt play IW gets IW bits

>Bitterness intensifies

>>51107451
See >>51107404

I'm wanking as we speak.

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Jesus you could have someone's eye out

>>51107482
>>51107400
I wonder who makes this

>>51107436
Do we have a compilation of what everyone got?

>>51107541
I think the guy who organised it might do.

>>51107519
I snipped off the base, but there isn't a stamp. Might be worth hoping the guy sees this and he'll enlighten us

My CSM Bikers are finally ready to paint. Pretty happy with how the posing came out. Any comments Anons?

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>>51107620
Forgot pic

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>>51107312
>tfw also live in Lincoln

hoho boy

>>51107400
>>51107421
>>51107519
I think the dancer is reaper and the other lady is crocodile games.

If you want to supplement your collection of furries check out Alkemy's Khaliman republic.
It's a nation of anthropomorphic arabian cats.
The old sculpt made under Kraken Editions are pretty awesome.

>>51107646
You're a weenie and we all know nobody on tg is doing anything. Good try at /b/tarding it up though

>>51107681
Realistically I think everyone is trying to get him to take it down because we're all cautious and don't want the secret santa ruined by some dingus self-doxxing.

>>51102722
holy fucking shit, anon
that's some impressive goddamn work

>>51102722

I noticed you, harlequin-sama. That paintwork gave a hard-on, anon.

>>51105768

Crimson Fists for lore

Ultramarines for Matt Ward hate

Or if you have friends that play space marines paint it in their chapter's colors

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Tyranid warrior reporting

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>>51108101

>>51106297
Noice how did you paint them ?

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>>51108101
>>51108155

Is there a chance he could report in a collage that's under 2MB or so next time? Rip in peace mobile users.

He looks OK for tabletop but needs basing.

>>51102415
nice job, specially on the shirt but i dont really like how the boots and the base share the same brown.

>>51108333

Sorry, anon. I'll keep that in mind next time.

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>>51102367
>that mug

>>51107087
Why is this bait?

>>51108101
Green and purple work well together, but you need to fully remove the moldlines. What are you going to do with the base?

>>51105611
looking good, anon! nihilakh crons have always been my favorites

>>51107055
the problem isnt the $8 bucks, its how that basically costs me a pot of paint, or half of a really nice model - im sure you know, when collecting this hobby, that not having a budget is a bad idea
or just go fuck yourself richfag

>>51108633
A gluegun is literally $2 at a craft store

I'm trying to find a model that i can convert into a daemonhost for an inquisition warband, but im not sure who does decent off brand daemonettesque stuff (or where to get chains n shit) - i tried googling but its a nightmare, any of yall anons have any ideas for it?

>>51108661
awesome, im off to the craft store

>>51100370

I see people posting their wip stuff on twitter using the hashtag #warmongers

what is the origin of this hashtag?

>>51108612

Sincerely, I have no idea. At first I was going with the usual grey sand and rocks, but maybe I'd go for something different, like some puddles and maybe a swamp/grass effect

>Order package from GW on the 25th december
>still hasn't arrived

it's two small models for christ sake, it shouldn't take this long! I wanna get started on my chaos lords already!

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First model, all criticism welcome

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>>51109209
>First model, all criticism welcome

I realize that WH40K takes place in the future, on a myriad of alien battlefields all across the galaxy, but I imagine Space Marines might decide they have better things to do than slug it out with the xenos who inhabit the TastyBite Madras Lentils planet.

>>51109209
some silver highlights on the gun to weather it, and a nun oil wash on it would go a long way

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How'd I do

>>51109369
well, the light you have is a bit strong, so I can't see too many of the highlights on the red parts
but it seems alright.

>>51109209
Try backing off a bit with the camera, that can help with the focus. More light is probably a good idea too, that much noise suggests the camera had to crank the sensitivity up way too high.

Also, did you base it with mustard?

>>51109369
Clean your room, there's a lot of dust caught in the paint.

Make the shading darker so things pop better. Highlights are harder to tell with the harsh light, a bit more on the edges probably wouldn't hurt though. Maybe add both yellow and white to the red for that, so things don't get all too pink.

If possible, diffuse the light more for the photography.

But all said and done, it'll do.

>>51101655
>not modding in female pilots
>not having speakers that say "valkyrie prepared" and "of course my dear" and "ya vol" everytime you move it
Do you even star craft?

>>51109312
>>51109312

>not buying your basing supplies from whole foods

ogryn #2 started, and some more nameless expendable paratroopers for the meat grinder. Today's not too cold so hopefully I can get some priming done.

>>51109557
woman dont belong in war

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>>51109690
oog. Starting the new year off strong, it seems.

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My inquisitorial Chimera I put together over the weekend. Not a lot of paint on it yet. Also first Chimera I've ever built.

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The blood bowl adventure officially begins lads!

>>51109732
No that looks too cool, strip it.

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>>51109752
PLEASE
Tell what, what flock this is.
If my snakebite orks had this basing, I would be so fucking happy and get less people bitching at me for no reason.

>>51105611

Please keep us updated as you paint him, i really love necrons and your scheme is looking cool. The res orb looks really nice too.

>>51109752
Awesome.

>>51109732
do you know if the inqusition rhino parts on FW can be used in some way for a chimera?

>>51110000
Unfortunately I don't think so. The etched brass likely has usable parts but the rhino parts don't really work.

>>51110057
i am really really considering that etched brass, but if its just for some flair for a single chimera? I'm not sure i have a use for the other grey knight stuff?

If i could even get witchhunter transfers!

At this point im considering hand making stensils

>>51110101
>but if its just for some flair for a single chimera? I'm not sure i have a use for the other grey knight stuff?
If you check around on ebay or bits stores, you should be able to source a bunch of different Inquisitions icons and standards from the Grey Knight, Immolator and Deathwatch kits.
If you are lucky enough to find some or are old enough to own some yourself the old Inquisitor Miniatures range had sprues with icons too for misc characters.

>>51110101
>At this point im considering hand making stensils
just freehand, yo

big symbols with lots of straight lines on tanks are the easiest thing

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>>51109752

Not sure if Sugden

>>51110224
im not sure i can trust myself

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>>51109786
Im pretty sure the flock is pic related (I use the same flock for my snakebites too, its nice and bright) the flowers are from ebay, not sure what the company is but they should be pretty easy to find.

Is there any kind of portable case, box or something that I can use to put all my hobby materials and keep them organized?

>>51107404
Nasty

are there any decent non - video guides for diy scenery? seems suspiciously absent from the OP

>>51109786
Just google search 28mm flock, the first result has plenty of options that are similar textures, as well as different colors.

>>51109123
where do you live. what shipping did you pick. what chaos lords were they. details motherfucker. FYI, there have been only 10 working days since then.

>>51110586
How portable?

I mean a fishing tackle box is pretty good to keep it all together. I know i shouldn't shill GW stuff but I actually like their project box.

>>51110311

It is, just check her tumblr.

>>51109209

"Our hunt for the traitor legions took us to Diarrhea V"

>>51109557
And I wasn't going for starcraft in the first place?

>>51110762
>a fishing tackle box
That's... pretty much perfect! I'll look into it. Thanks!

>>51110864
Fucking kek

>>51108689
For chains use jewellers chain. Most craft stores should have it. As for base miniature short of converting something like the flaggerents from fantasy with plastic daemonette bits and green stuff I can't think of anything.

>>51109701
>>>/pol/
>>>/trash/

>>51108689
https://wargameexclusive.com/shop/heresy-hunters/heresy-hunter-daemonette-inquisitor-contracted-mercenary/

>>51110991
>>>/out/

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>>51108689
Guy's not really 40k looking but its what came to mind when i read hosting deamons

>>51111575
This guy with different legs, floating against chains, would look amazing as a daemonhost.

>>51110657
the op should have the GW hot to build scenery book.
covers all you need to know basically.

What's the best recommended black primer spray paint by everyone in this thread?

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Having fun painting the Doom board game and going to do some newbie tutorials off of it so limiting my skills (i.e. no blending). Creates an interesting challenge, especially on the Imp who doesn't match the ingame model at all and has a smooth blend of purple to yellow flesh in game and black to purple with orange plates in the promo art. Caocdemon like wise has liberties and it's arms are 10 times too big for the ingame model.

These are close to done but need a few bits of clean up and bases painting. If the boxset was cheaper I would have picked up more and built a 40k army out of them. Possessed as plague marines, Imps as demonettes and Cacos as screamers.

In before 0 (you)s

>>51111895
Army painter is the best.

>>51109786
That's standard green flock, if you just search green flock you should find it fine. It was THE way to base models until 3rd edition 40k came out.

>>51110552
That's not flock faggot that's static grass. They are completely different products.

>>51112080
do they have a doomguy model in there as well?

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>>51112141
They have 4 SPACE MARINES but none of them are perfectly doom guy. One has a plasma gun, one a chainsaw, one a plasma gun and one a shotgun. They're the same model except weapons and helmet.

Card art shows them all white with primary colour panels in places but I am tempted to paint at least one in proper Doom colours.

>>51112141
https://klukvaminiatures.nethouse.ru/posts/2261404

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Working on my edgelords. Primed the base for my test NL and primed my first Dark Eldar, which has a few shitty parts I never bothered to fix. Hence, he's a tester.

Both primed with Gesso and some Dragon Black, which is also an experiment because this is a first time with brush-on. They'll be drying on my way to work.

>>51112080
>>51112226
>new cacodemon has two much larger teeth not inline with the rest
I never noticed this before and now it's really bugging me. Damnit.

>>51112377
It's entire mouth opens now and if you pay attention to it's design you will notice it's 90% flesh with armour plates for the red.

>>51109209
>BROTHERS, WHAT IS THAT SMELL

Needs a bit more work, not in a "you have done it wrong" just a "you aren't finished yet". Look up some videos on shading/highlighting, tidy up some of the overspill (red on the bolter magazine, little bit around the eyes) and you're good to go!

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Hello all. New to the hobby. I've been assembling my first Ork Trukk (was not expecting it to be as complicated as it is let me tell ya) and now I've got it into several main parts, with some individual pieces that connect two large parts together. Should I prime each piece individually or just glue the whole thing together and then prime it?

>>51112080
Looking good. Nice job.

How's the model quality? I have the old Doom BG and the minis are utterr shit quality

>>51112486

Welcome to /wip/ now get out. Just kidding.

Just a heads up
>5.14 MB, 4032x3024
Don't do this

Before you post your pictures, resize them in Microsoft paint, there's no need for that picture to be 5mb.

Back to your mode.

I would say you could get away with gluing almost everything before priming it. Personally I would leave out the crew and paint them separately. The boarding ramps can also make it a ball ache to paint but, as this is your first model it doesn't really matter.

Make sure you remove the mold lines off everything, I can still see some on the wheels and on a couple of other bits.

Have fun.

>>51112080
set up a 1v4 game of 40k apoc ay your FLGS with you as the 1, and just field Doomguy on his own.

Could anyone recommend a producer of generic fantasy or historical bronze age/iron age/medieval miniatures? Plastic, resin, metal; anything goes, as long as it's more affordable than what GW puts out.

I'm having a bitch of a time finding anything that isn't over-the-top original character donut steel.

>>51112708
the reaper bones line has lots of generic dudes. goblins, skeletons, zombies, etc.

Can I undercoat my models in Retributor Armor spray or do I need to use Chaos Black first?

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Wip of my archaon. Sorry for phone pic

>>51112708
Oh god, how long do you want the list and what's your budget?

If we're talking minis for DMing then http://otherworldminiatures.co.uk/shop/

Aside from that:

http://www.wampstore.com
http://www.figone.fr/en/
https://www.ristulsmarket.com/19-fantasy-miniatures
http://www.blacksunminiatures.co.uk/product-category/35mm/
http://aradiaminiatures.com/index.php?id_category=12&controller=category
http://mierce-miniatures.com/
https://www.momminiaturas.com/miniaturas/
http://sciborminiatures.com/
http://www.darkswordminiatures.com/shop/index.php/

Also hasslefree, reaper, freebooter, privateer press, etc

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Hey can anybody help me?
I just started my greek force for Bolt action and i am confused as what to use for their uniforms colors.
Not really experienced in painting can anybody give good paint for the uniform?

>>51112603
Doesn't sound a fair fight DESU. Doomguy has a 0+ invul save.

>>51110722
sweden, standard shipping and two of the Chaos Nurgle Lord mini.

I have ordered both bigger and smaller packages from GW before, but I didn't have to wait this long for the delivery, hence my impatience.

>>51112708
Warlord Games

>>51112708
>of generic fantasy or historical bronze age/iron age/medieval miniatures?
Foundry I'd say. Loads of ancient cultures represented there and imo usually with pretty decent sculpts too.
If you want to go back further Warlord also sells some stoneage guys in their savage core range.

Has any one thought of doing a group buy? We must have some people with retail access here who could buy and ship stuff at minimal cost. Maybe do a group build of some kind?

>>51114134

A lot of people do that for Forge World when they want to order a lot of stuff but aren't buying enough to qualify for free shipping, because FW shipping is super expensive and scales with your order size. Basically if you order $100-200 you'll pay $10-20 shipping but don't get free shipping until like $300.

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CSM/DarkMech guy here, thanks for the suggestions in the previousish thread. I'm gonna go for Tzaangor heads for the Geminae, and the bird head from the Herald of Tzeentch on Burning Chariot for Celestine. Gonna take a bit of greenstuffing, but I'll be sure to post some pictures once I actually manage to get a hold of the kit. Speaking of Johnny, where can I nab one?

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Heres a battle scene from yesterday /Wip/

That missing model is a tau riptide that is WiP so theres that if painted models battling isnt enough

>>51114269
You have got any pics on your stuff yet?

Is mounting your assemblies in some plasticine or blutack to paint them OK? I'm doing a dead marine for my Knight's base, and obviously he doesn't have a base himself. Is it OK just to put whichever bit I'm not painting in some of that, or will the little bits left on the model be impossible to remove?

>>51115442
blutack will work fine. if you're gentle it'll come off easily. if you're forceful about it then you might have to use a finger nail to get a bit off. just avoid sticking it in deep crevices; stick it on the bottom of feet or where it will glue into the rest of the model.

>>51115483
Cool. He's mostly done basecoating now anyway, just the black, steel and brass shoulder and trim left then shades, washes and highlights, but I will make use of that in future.

>>51107436
>>51107570
Glad it arrived! YW and hope you enjoy

>>51107670
This anon is correct on both counts

>>51106966
You just gave me a flashback to the old days of the HH where marks weren't even properly represented and shit.
As the other said, clean DG looks a bit weird, but an excellent job nonetheless.

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>>51106966
Forgot the pic.

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Is my Solitaire tabletop standard or better?
>he hasn't performed yet.

>>51115962
Tabletop.

No flaws, no flair, rather boring.

>>51109752

Love the power squat the dude on the right has got going on. Are these old orcs made to look bloodbowl or are these original bloodbowl chappies?

>>51115962
It's painted cleaner than most gaming minis, but I don't see any shading or highlighting on there.
The photo isn't great either though.

Looks like the upper end of tabletop to me.

>>51115962
Top half of tabletop. The easy way to distinguish this is to rephrase your question as
>is my Solitare display or competition quality?

and the answer to that is no. On the other hand, he's clean, the gems are nicely executed and he'll look fine on the table.

If you want to get above tabletop almost every aspect would have to improve: highlighting your black into greys with smooth gradients, the trim highlighted, more than one colour with a shade on the caress, more than a simple drybrush job on the base, blending on the gems etc. etc.

>>51108565
>Nice and clean
>Paints as thick as my cock

>>51114701

My old shop had that modular hill AND the realm of battle with the hills.

Fuck, I miss that shit.

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>>51109838
I've not had much time but managed to get a quick session in this evening. Swapped a bit of gold for blue and added a few extra details. It's going to be slow progress wise but I'm happy with how it's coming out.

I picked up some Forgeworld Commissars with a bad paintjob from ebay. I want to strip them.
However, the Dakka guide doesn't say if Castrol Super Clean is safe for resin models.
Does anyone know if Super Clean will melt resin models? If it does, what should I use instead?

>>51110990
i have loads of old metal flaggerents, i wonder if i can get daemonette bits

>>51116927
It should be ok i've use degreasers on resin before and it turned out fine.

>>51100457
could you pretty please post the thousand sons guide? thanks man

>>51116927
if it's the stuff in the purple bottle then I can vouch for it. It works a lot better than Simple Green, though I would do two 24 hour dunks and clean them off as best you can between.

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What can I use for an industrial metal walkway? I need a very large amount so styrene is probably not an affordable option.

>>51117391
find some mesh.
You know the kind used to keep flies out of your window.
Glue that down and after a black basecoat and a metal drybrush it'll look the part.

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How do you do/paint Martian terrain without that cheat Martian Ironearth? What colors?

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>>51117264
>>51117324
Thanks anons!

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My first mini, got them for Christmas, finally got the balls to paint the first one, any tips? (Yes, I tried to thin my paints.)

>>51115962

Did you even change anything from the last three times you've posted this?

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Why did I think it was a good idea to buy EVERYTHING from Zombicide BP. Even doing these to a passable tabletop standard is time consuming as all hell

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I've started on the next model for my malifaux crew and i'm not sure what colours to paint it.
Specifically do you think I should paint the dress the same colour as all the roots (going to be standard tree colour) or maybe an earthy looking green just to add some more colour to the model.

>>51117679
Maybe give it another black wash, and then go over with a lighter silver highlight.
There's a fantastic Vallejo paint called "smoke" that is like a reeaaally thick brown-black wash. Kind of like GW's current agrax earthshade but much better depth to it. Slight downside, the thing stink. No idea why, but when it's wet it just has this awful stench about it.
Any way, thin it down to like 50% and give it a good solid wash

>>51117608
Serious question, not trying to give you any shit, but why wouldn't you use Martian Ironearth if that's the effect you want?

>>51117679
You did well. There's not much loss of detail in the important areas.

That cable looks a bit ugly though.

Now give it some depth; a touch of nuln oil followed by some highlighting.

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>>51117809
Also a great wash for leather.

>>51117679
Use a smaller brush and pay closer attention to where your colors touch. You got some black on the right hand, silver on the gun and black on the green wire, etc.

Otherwise a fair effort. Practice more. If you finish the squad and don't like them you can strip them down and try again.

>>51117828
>>51117608
Go on Amazon, get any kind of crackle medium. Mix in a strong paint or better yet a pigment, and apply that. Fraction of the cost.
It's seriously astounding that GW puts those texture paints in tiny pots, surely if you are using them you have a whole bunch of minis you want to have the same terrain for...

>>51116756
Wasn't talking about mine.

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>>51117679
Also, if you want to give it a little pop some OSL (object source lighting) goes a long way with a little touch. Just don't use too much of it or it'll look like shit. It's a subtle effect from a glowing gun, not a 500 watt torch.

>>51117912
>hey guys, here is my first mini, everybody!
>now do some OSL!
Seriously?
I mean. Even most experienced miniature painters suck at that because they usually never studied light like an painter working in 2d.

Unless you have some prior knowledge doing this even before you've got a solid handle on the other basics sounds a little too ambitious to put it mildly.

>>51117679
See if you can't get a brighter green for the eyes. Make them stand out a bit more.

Otherwise looks fine. It's a necron. Hard to mess them up. Keep on truckin'

So probably off topic, but I've discovered that the used GW carrying case that I got off eBay in a cheap lot had really awful smelling foam. I've put them out on the deck to air out for a week. I assume that painting the sprues that were stacked on the smelly foam will solve the smell for those things, but what about the battlefoam? Any way to salvage them from infecting my minis with shitty funk?

>>51116756
>not having multiple thin cocks

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Anons, I got a box of these guys for Christmas as my first SM!

I don't know how to put them together for painting though. What do I leave off and what do I keep on? Leaving off the bolter arm seems like a good idea, but I don't know what else. I want to give them the swords on their backs.

>>51118052

Go to bolter and chainsword and view all the army pics. You'll get a good idea of what you like and don't like. If you don't like fucking anything, then this is the wrong hobby.

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>>51117912
Oh, and invest in a brighter green. GW really doesn't cater for it but Vallejo whoring but some of the useful additions:
70.827 and 70.954 for a sickly yellow-green
70.885 for a pale spooky ghost green
70.737 for a fluourescent OH MY GOD green.
Excuse the older minis but they show the colours I posted

>>51117982
It's on a necron, buddy. Drybrushing is something the guy is gonna learn and OSL on that metal is basically going to be drybrushing on 3 shades of green. Pretty clear and defined light source and it's not so much painting skill there as general knowledge of theory. Anon might have taken photography and could school us on luminescence.

>>51118074
Gee anon, all I wanted to know was what to leave off for painting?

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Finished up my BA Sergeant I posted before. Decided with the Combi-Flamer in the end. I thought cause he was the sergeant he should get a little more detail than the rest of the troops. Just gonna do the base up for some muddy looking snow and clean up the feet, other than that I am satisfied how he turned out.

>>51118192
Looks good anon, but shouldn't the bottom of the pole where it joins to the top of the armour be boltgun too?

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>>51118302
You mean the what I assume is the gas canister? I suppose so, could easily pass it off as a screw in tank.

Also Red is a very unforgiving colour to base with I have learned.

>>51118302
Sorry, I see what you mean now. I was debating whither I wanted to do that or not and decided against it cause I didn't see it really changing the appearance all that much.

>>51118192
I think the gas canister sort of blends in with all the red. Other than that it looks really nice.

Hey anons, my paints finally came in the mail! Got a question though, my retributor armor has a white cap rather than a clear one, is this normal?

>>51118192
looking good, anon! the fabrics and base could use some work, but the gems and lenses are good!

>>51118424
How would you guy about doing fabrics? I wanted some pretty big contrast there. Was also thinking ordering in green stuff to pant over top of capes and such first to get some texture.

>>51118467
the contrast is good, but there's no transition. i'd say thin down the agrax and blend it down into that darker color.
same for the purity seals

>>51118497
Thanks, will keep that in mind for next time. Won't try it for this guy cause I don't want to fuck around with that BA sigil. Will also use it for comparison.

>>51114269
Eee im so excited you used my tzaangor headed angel bitches idea, please let me know how they turn out. I do Tau auxiliaries and i may be able to snag the twins and some tzaangor guys to make Krooty Vespid stand-ins

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>>51118052

Come to the spooky side.

>>51118142
personally, backpacks, heads and bolter

Someone in an earlier thread recommended to me to dump Lamenters Yellow shade on top of runefang steel to get a shiny yellow metallic armor effect. But before I commit to it, does anyone have experience using a shade on metallic paint? Is it consistent across models or will it require multiple washes?

>>51118142
I leave back, packs, heads, and bolters off to the side. Also depends on the model, take a good look and decide what you feel comfortable panting together and which you would feel better doing separate. Also either pant all your stuff by sticking the model to a pill bottle or a cork screw. This will keep your fingers away from any wet paint and potentially ruining your painted model.

Also

REMOVE MOLD LINES!

>>51118631

>Also either pant all your stuff by sticking the model to a pill bottle or a cork screw.

How is this achieved outside of drilling holes and sticking in paper clips? Tape? Bubblegum?

>>51118683
Wall tack.

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>>51118683


This >>51118701
Go to your dollar store and grabs some wall tack (it's the shit you use to hold up posters to your wall without sticking something sharp in your wall.)

I use to use it before moving to cork screws and paper clips. What you will find is the tac shit kinda gets in your way and can be flimsy if too warm.

>>51118081
>It's on a necron, buddy. Drybrushing is something the guy is gonna learn and OSL on that metal is basically going to be drybrushing on 3 shades of green. Pretty clear and defined light source and it's not so much painting skill there as general knowledge of theory. Anon might have taken photography and could school us on luminescence.
Yet the image posted does not have the OSL drybrushed at all.
Seriously, you're not doing a beginner any favors with suggesting techniques for display pieces on a troop choice for gaming and then even providing example images that show a miniature that was clearly painted differently than what he was talking about.
It only serves to frustrate and is counterproductive.

>>51105768
Okay, so, I'm HELLA curious, what kit did that dead termie come from?

>>51118815
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FFyZA_onM8

>>51118757

Drilling holes it is, then

>>51118757

If you know what you're doing the tack will never get in the way, but the join can be flimsy and parts fall off when you push too hard with the brush.

But that inconvenience I'll take since I'm too lazy to drill everything.

>>51118777
>Yet the image posted does not have the OSL drybrushed at all.
What, the one with the ghosts?

>>51109732
Those Scions look cool, what heads did you use?

>>51119366
not that anon, but they look like skiitari vanguard heads (the box comes with twenty heads for ten dudes, so you can likely get the extra heads cheap on ebay)

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>>51117391
>What can I use for an industrial metal walkway?

How about the screen from a window or (if you can get it) the material they make solar screens out of? That should look right at 28mm scale.

>>51118029
stick em in a drawer with a sock filled with baking soda for a few weeks or a month. massage the sock periodically. yes i realize this sounds like made up advice

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>>51118777
>>51119164
Re-read your comment and yeah I think I get what you are saying. It is drybrushed, I know because I did it.
You can tell because of how granular the lighting looks because (as I say) old model, poor base coating, grainy outcome. Some other examples from that time next to it. Drybrushing to that quality isn't hard, I'm not that good.

>>51112816
bumping question

>>51118683
if the foot (or whatever) of the model is plastic/isn't really small, I just heat up the end of the paperclip with a lighter and push it in a bit. quick and easy, clip it off when I'm done

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Shattered Dominion is coming together! This board is so cool.

>>51119517
Retributor can be used as a base coat, GW says. However, it is NOT a primer. You still need to prime your minis white/grey first

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Still workin on this guy liking how hes coming along

>>51119533
God damn, that is tasty. WAY more than I would pay though. Picked up terratiles and never looked back.

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>>51118815
>Okay, so, I'm HELLA curious, what kit did that dead termie come from?

It's a base decoration for the Tyranid Toxicrene/Maleceptor model.

>>51105768
While I appreciate the amazing job wouldn't it be more orky to strap something more bitey to the front? Actually, we could cover the front in teeth that shoot MORE teeth!

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>>51119568
Thank you!

>>51119538

Too bad Chaos Black ain't a primer.

>>51119517

Both Chaos Black and Retributor need to be sprayed over an actual primer. Once the model is primed, you can spray Retributor straight on if you want.

In fact, you can spray Retributor straight on the plastic model if you wanted to, it'll just be a stupid idea and the paint will rub or chip off easily.

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>>51118052
I did mine as World Eaters. They're in the queue for the next time I can be bothered priming. Going to have fun with the blood splatter.

>>51119744
So I went to check their site as I've been using both black and white for a while without major incident.

Chaos Black product description lists it as "undercoat" for priming. Corax white now says "for basecoating plastic, resin and metal Citadel miniatures". Colour sprays say "When sprayed over an undercoat" so assumedly wants the primer first

So I guess black is officially their primer but white also kinda is?

>>51119744
Also would you prime gold in black? I'd say white>brown>gold>wash>highlight if it were me

>>51119966

Read it again, on a country that uses English. They all say the same shit and GW has NEVER sold a real primer in spray form for over 30 years so I doubt they will now.

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How bad is it for my lungs?

>>51119988

A brownish sepia or rusty red color would be the best primer for gold. Failing that, grey, or white. Since it is a spray, the color underneath matters less, but you black may not be ideal because it might be so dark that it forces you to spray so much gold to get a complete coat that the thick paint will obscure details.

>>51120011
I am. This is straight up from their site:

CHAOS BLACK
Citadel Colour spray cans are designed for undercoating metal and plastic models. The purpose of the undercoat is twofold: it acts as a primer and it provides a flat base colour to paint onto. You will find that a spray finish is far flatter and better to paint onto than a brushed undercoat.

CORAX WHITE
Corax White Spray is designed for basecoating plastic, resin and metal Citadel miniatures. Reformulated for maximum results, with a fantastic off-white colour, it's a fast way to get a uniform base of colour onto models.
This is an ideal spray for basecoating any miniature in white, quickly and with minimal fuss.

MOURNFANG BROWN
Mournfang Brown Spray is designed for basecoating all Citadel miniatures. When sprayed over an undercoat, it's a fast way to get a uniform base of colour onto your models.

>>51120041

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Chaos-Black-Spray-GLOBAL?_requestid=3348603

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Corax-White-Spray-Global?_requestid=3348619

>>51120041

If we assume GW is telling the truth, then yes, Chaos Black is their only primer. I doubt that is accurate though since it's not even on most of the sites.

If you were going to prime with black why not just buy a regular black primer that you KNOW is a primer and is also a lot cheaper?

>>51120013
it causes nerve damage

>>51109209
That looks like actual shit on the base. The nasty green kind.

>>51120013
Why use this over superglue / CA? I haven't got any models yet but I have a ton of CA - it bonds a LOT of shit just fine.

>>51120063
Weird, the northerm european english version is different. Suppose I shouldn't be surprised, but why rewrite the english version differently in another region?

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-FI/Chaos-Black-Spray-NORTHERN-EUROPE#

>>51120090
What do people recomend in order to protect yourself from the solvent? Should a simple chemical mask work? I can't get good ventilation due to it being the winter.

>>51120124
It's labelled as a glue for polystyrene, I think it is just CA but there's a bunch of shit that melts polystyrene so not sure.

>>51119562
thanks for mentioning those, i checked them out and i reckon i'll buy a box.

>>51120138

That's why I told you to go to a version that uses English and not just pretends to use English. Because you totally think "Northern Europe" when you think English, right?

>>51120138

Because GW is trying to start WWIII. You know they also don't allow countries to ship GW products to other countries? I'm not even joking.

>>51120013

Sounds like plastic glue to me. Standard fumes.

>>51120124

Because newfags don't know any better and idiots on the internet who don't know any better either say stupid shit like "Lol superglue is for idiots you dont need anything other than plastic glue".

>>51120249
Could you possibly answer? >>51120163

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How do these people make money

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>>51120163

You need any mask that filters air level pollutants. Something like pic related. It's pretty cheap for what it is, but some people don't use it because they think they can use a dirt cheap disposable mask.

Protip, idiots: if you can still smell the fumes, your mask isn't fucking working. If you ever use one of these respirators and look at the pads and how black they get, you know they work. When you wear them you can't smell anything because of the rubber gas mask seal. Same effect as the gas masks that you use in the military, although probably with much weaker filters.

>>51120234
Probably because it's literally cheaper to buy GW stuff from the UK and ship it to NZ privately than buy it from GW here in NZ. It's ridiculous.

>>51120265

Just don't sit in the same room as the glue while it's drying. Usually people don't wear masks for plastic glue but if you don't have any ventilation and are in the same room for hours you will need a mask.

>>51120273
people pay them, and they churn shit out quickly

Getting a proper commission job will be considerably more expensive and time consuming than having some airbrush monkey blast your shit in a week. And for some people, that's good enough for them.

>>51120273

People pay for pic related, that's how.

How long does paint usually last?
>Mfw pulled out paints from last time I attempted to get into hobby solo, and have a shitload of them from last year, still all liquid once I shook the bottle a good deal

Feels fucking good man, and now I have a friend going into this with me, so this time for SURE I'll actually paint this shit.

>>51120380

Good ones last years. If you got the early GW prototypes for the modern GW pots, they say like 2011 on the bottom I think, they form a "gummy" seal that just short of gums close, those dry up super fast. You need the GW pots that go "click" when you close them to last a year or more.

Or just don't use GW paint in general if you don't want your paint to dry. Buying a new pot every couple years isn't a huge expense but then again I'm not someone who owns 100+ paints. Those guys should probably invest in droppers.

>>51120380
Some paints separate better than others. That warplocke bronze GW does, or Vallejo's true metallics (the ones in alcohol that'll rust if you get them wet) are particularly notable examples. If you have problems, drop a stainless steel ball like an airsoft ball into it and that should help shake it up. Long ago in a distant land, one manufacturer put a little pewter skull in the bottle for this reason.

>>51120273
Some folks just want tabletop ready minis.

>>51120490
Nah, just buy a big bottle of a medium you are comfortable with, except GW because seriously how the fuck is a pot of medium the same as a pot of paint you money-grabbing cocksicles.
Maybe twice a year if there's a paint you don't use often just crack it open, top it up to where the consistency feels right and give it a good shake.

>>51120380
If you take care of them, they can last for upwards of ten years. Even the shitty bolt shell paints.

Just takes a bit of care. Or you can move your paints to droppers and add in your own agitators if you'd rather not think about it too much.

>>51120290
Thanks. Just ordered one now. I had shitty cloth and plastic ones but I could still smell the glue.

>>51120521
>Vallejo's true metallics

>mfw people gush over VMA being "the best metallics ever" I sit atop my dais with Vallejo Liquid Gold watching the peasants go about their daily lives painting inferior metallics

>>51120573

I did that and it was super annoying because somehow the pot couldn't hold enough medium to get the paint revived enough. So I pour medium to the brim, then stir the pot of gunk and it's SUPER thick and it threatens to slosh medium out of the pot so I can't even add more medium and I'm just like HOW DID YOU HOLD THE MEDIUM BEFORE YOU DRIED UP THEN?!

>>51120163
for short gluing session, open a window, keep the fan on, and vacate the room while it dries. Or place it outside.

for long gluing sessions, go outside, or else use protective equipment.

never hold the glue or a freshly glued model near your nose. You are probably thinking "well duh" but sometimes people hold it up to their face trying to see the small detail while they glue a tiny part.

>>51120598
as the paint dries dries chemical changes take place. That's why fully dried paint doesn't wash off with just water or medium.

>>51116925

Damn man I'm loving the blue. It looks much better than that scheme gw was using in all it's battle reports awhile back. I went for a sort of red and white ceramic look for my crons but that was 5 or 6 years ago and I have them in the loft since then. I wasn't a particularly good painter either. Really liking this striking look. Thanks for keeping us updated.

>>51120587
Liquid gold is pretty sweet, never found another paint with such good coverage but it's just a bastard to deal with and you are going to struggle to clean any brush that goes near it.

>>51120598
Need the right ratio of medium - paint - distilled water. Split it into two pots if necessary, or better yet transfer to dropper bottle if it's the kind of paint that ends up like that. Worst case scenario is that you can't revive it and end up with an empty pot for the future.

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Working on my Neophyte Cultists tonight. Mainly just wanted to paint that little bit of cloth under their front armor that's hard to reach once their arms are on.

Quick question: the painting guide on the back of these guys' box says to do Zandri Dust, Agrax, and then Karak Stone for their fatigues. However, I'm not sure if the Karak Stone is supposed to just be an edge highlight, or an all over layer. Any of you guys know?

>>51120717
Never found another GOLD paint I mean, and I have a bunch

>>51118402

Is that the gold colour? Yea it's normal. For some reason some of the newer paints they've released have white lids, some other new ones don't though. Fuck knows why.

>>51120789
some of them are branded as a sort of 'luxury' range, costing 11 a pot instead of 6, due to having a higher pigment count. retributor is one of them, and as far as i know thats why they have white lids.

I think GW just like messing with people who have OCD

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Anywhere else to buy glue and mold cutters and shit that isnt GW? I'm not paying $60 for some glue, mold cutters and mold line removers

>>51120808

All the new metallics have that white lid and increased price. They have one for silver and bronze too I think.

>>51121030
any hobby store that caters towards models planes or shit, basically any of them. if you mean specific companies, army painter, privateer press, etc all carry lines of tools.

>>51120970
>change base size
>change paint formula
>twice
>start removing all limits from army building
>starts saying BOTH versions of rules are legal instead of saying the newer version replaces the older version for certain niche units/supplements
>randomly makes some of the 30k books red instead of black
>still hasn't updated certain 6E codexes
>makes Khorne Daemonkin but no Tzeentch Daemonkin for major Tzeentch/Thousand Sons release

>>51121030
Wire cutters and needle files are going to be in any hardware store. Super glue is easy to find anywhere. Polystyrene cement is a little more difficult, but with a bit of searching you can probably find a store with some non-GW brand locally.

>>51121030

Mold line removers are universally overpriced, just use your hobby knife or a spare hobby knife if you don't want to dull the blade or even the spine of the blade.

Sprue cutters just use the cheapest one side flush cutters you can find.

Glue just use a good brand like Loctite or Gorilla Super.