WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Threadly Reminder and a Happy New Year!

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Anyone else painting the bloodbowl set? Was a little disappointed with skaven but the human and orc teams are probably the best models in the game.

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Started my wraith army

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Happy new year anons. What are your hobby resolutions for 2017?

I want to finish two armies of some variety and enter some kind of painting competition.

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>>50970234
I painted up the humans with a nordland theme. Your guy is looking great so far! I love the blue tone.

>>50970234
Dying to start bloodbowl, but I'm holding out for dorf minis.

>>50970284
My hobby resolutions are to finally get an epic tank for my army, get my own rules get to the first draft and to THIN MY PAINTS.

that pic
>Good luck i'm behind 1000 skeletons

>>50970284
only to pick a goddamm color scheme for my nurgle army, and get a solid kill-team going.

other than that, I'm winging it.

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>>50970234
Agreed, the orcs are really fun to paint, and I'm dying for the Nurgle team to come

>>50970284
I want to finish some of the projects I started.
I feel I have to cause I can't let them go and it feels like my head is getting cluttered with old ideas.

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More progress

>>50970294
Damn wish I could get the white to come out that crisp. I love the extra armour details on blitzers for humans and orcs.

>>50970416
Wonder if they'll release some monstrous set or just separate sets for rat ogres, rotspawn etc? It's difficult to find monster models that have bloodbowl styled armour.

>>50970473
yeah, they're probably going to make the big guys like the starplayers, 10-15$ each

I really hope Nurgle team will be in plastic by GW

also dwarfs soon

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>>50970284
Hopefully I finish my Genecults w/ Nid allies army.
Maybe get my Raptors done so I can get a start on my 30k Imperial Fistos

>>50970284

I've been bought a display case so I might as well paint something to go in it.

Does sitting in sunlight affect paintjobs though?

>>50970513
>Does sitting in sunlight affect paintjobs though?
YES
Pigment will fade when exposed to direct sunlight for long periods.

>>50970486

We were talking about this is the Blood Bowl general, we reckon that Nurgle and Elf Union (Pro Elf) will be plastic, as they're the other concepts seen.

>>50970486
>yeah, they're probably going to make the big guys like the starplayers, 10-15$ each
single characters for the other games are twice that much on average.
What makes you think Blood Bowl is gonna be cheaper?

bought a box of Cadians after not hobbying for 10 years... nostalgia overload

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And now on to 30 Rubics.

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>>50970760
one from the back

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Started the arduous task of highlighting every feather, it's starting to look better though.

One thing I have noticed is the stark contrast between retributor armour spray and pot. The armour was sprayed and the crown was painted by hand and there is a noticeable difference I think.

>>50970760
>>50970770
Kudos, anon!

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This is the first mini I ever painted what do you think?

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Reposting from last thread. Comparison shot of my old Chapter Master (Left) and my New One (Right.)

Will also be posting pictures of small updates I made since previously posting.

>>50970899
could be a lot worse, needs a little more thinning on the paints, and smoother transitions, but certainly not horrible.
Keep up the practice anon.

>>50970811
would agree, the red component is carried in the paint as a thinner solution which when sprayed tends to mix less thoroughly hence the brushed look is more red. A solution is to either spray the helmet for the yellow look or gryphon sepia wash the chestplate.

>>50970899
either brighten up the cloak or use a wash to mesh those colors a bit. a bit too stark. other than that, pretty good. and, as always, thin your paints a bit, they look to thick on the face.

>>50970946
There are a couple of things that bother me myself, for example i fucked up his right eye, i should paint first and lateron glue the arms in place and i could remove the (sry don't know how its called in english but in german its Gußgrad) small hump from the production more properly. but still thanks ^^

>>50970899
the areas are kept neat which is a great start. You seem to be trying to achieve too much colour in too few layers, metal especially is tempting since it either covers completely or not much at all. If you don't want to use layers then washes are a must, for the robes you could paint naggaroth night, then genestealer purple all over, then a wash, then pick out the robes in genestealer purple. If you can't match the tones up perfectly it's easier to use a wash to shade. Also you could clean up the trim a little more, a full basecoat of brown or a lighter colour helps define what you've missed.

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>>50970908
The hammer arm...

>>50970993
>>50971003
so overall thinning the colour would be a good start. I just have started with playing WH40k so I still have tons of minis to colour, i will think of your tips on the future ones thanks ^^

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>>50970908
>>50971015
A comparison shot.

>>50970908
they're both pretty sloppy, particularly the white and the details on the legs, but I kind of like the brightness of the older one better

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Finally I have a way to take a picture of my penis and do it justice!

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>>50971074

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>>50970234
>>50970234
I posted this last week, but I've just started painting the orcs, I very much like the skaven models, especially when compared with the old 1996 models for them

Asking again in new thread?

Doe anyone know of any good proxy/stand-in bits for Legion of the Damned marines? I want to get a skull helmet and I've been unable to find one.

>>50971201
Night lords

Asked last thread, but asking again.

Where can I get some Draenei-like heads for Guardsman/Fire Warrior/etc-sized minis? Not Marine-scaled.

>>50970246
Weird texture on some of your guys, the spiritseer has some THICK parts and that wraith behind him has a really grainy texture on his legs.

The basing is also odd, I can't tell if it's unpainted or just weird shades, but the sawdust-type stuff and the foam? looks really odd.

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>>50971074

Oh, Tsugumi, you're such a kidder!

>>50970908
Stop adding white to your red for highlights.

>>50969968
Paint stripping link does not work.

Got a great deal on Chimeras and LemanRuss fir my guard army. They're spray painted, how do I strip the thick metallic spray paint on these larger models?

I usually use simple green on the small guardsmen in a cup. Then tooth brush clean in hot water. The simple green doesn't seem strong enough fir the tanks though.

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>>50971337
>Paint stripping link does not work.

Yes it does. Those periods in the URL are *not* optional.

>>50971335
But I don't? That bright red is Wild Rider Red.

>>50971337
>Paint stripping link does not work.
you need to include the dots. it's part of the url for some reason
We really should include that information in the op, it gets asked so often.

>>50971377
Over what base? The jump looks unnatural as is.

>>50971121
That crimson really suits the darker skin colour. Agree the skaven models are good compared to the past models but they seem a little rudimentary compared to the other teams. Would've been interesting if the thrower had a skyre ball cannon and the blitzers could've had more intricate armour.

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Nurgle heldrake conversion, not quite done yet I have the tail area to do.i still think its turning out pretty well.

to get the large boils I've been putting air soft pellets bellow green stuff

>>50971405
Wait, I tell a lie, it's not Wild Rider, it's one shade brighter.

But I start out with a basecoat of Khorne Red, move up to Mephistion Red to layer, then to Wild Rider to get the first highlights. And then the brighter shade for Edge Highlighting.

Also, that one was before I realized you had to thin the paints OUT of the jar.

>>50971591
I'd try to disguise those tyranid back-chimney things a bit more, possibly by making them less clean at the top and more pitted.

>>50971634
I saw a thing using glue and sand to make something appear corroded and rusty i suppose i could do that or i can just cut them right off and sub them out or cover the holes with green stuff

>>50971624

Mephiston to Wild Rider for the first highlight is a big jump not only in how orange it is but also how pink it is, I always go via Evil Sunz.

If you want to tie them together more you could glaze over for a smoother transition.

>>50971676
I was thinking if you score them lengthwise so they're more jaggedy at the top they'd fit well with the corroded spikes coming up from the turbines.

My roommate spilled my nuln oil and so I have to put some of my painting projects on hold and work on something else.

Here's an Emperor's Champion that I've decided to work towards, and an the art reference that I'm using. Problem is, I'm a halfway-decent painter but I don't have a lot of experience modeling, and I still can't wrap my head around how people do so well with green stuff.

Thoughts so far? I'm not super-satisfied with the legs and I just did the left arm this morning and I'm already thinking that it needs to be moved a little to match the pose.

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>>50971729
fuck

>>50971698
sounds good thanks anon, ill certainly give it a try.

>>50971679
WAIT, I WAS WRONG.

Wildrider was the highlight, Evil Suns was the next shade up. I forget the colors way too much. XD.

But yeah, I'm fixing it up on the new one.

>>50971742
So far looks reasonably close to the art. I wouldn't get too hung up on the legs, I've always thought that picture was just about the faggiest looking BT with those swishy hips. looks more like a SoB

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Working on thousand sons at the moment. Super early but I'm really enjoying painting them.

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Sup /WIP/, I'm sure some of you will recognize this. I'm currently scratch-building a Javelin Attack speeder. It's got a cockpit and a turret with a Cyclone missile launcher, and 2 hunter killer missiles. I'm currently trying to figure out how I'm going to do some gribbling on it to add further details, which I might just do with painting a bunch of lines and hatches onto it.

>>50972155
take off the stickers and use a hobby knife to score some lines and etc into the surface. maybe draw them first? also an antenna or something would look cool

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>>50971848
>Wildrider was the highlight, Evil Suns was the next shade up. I forget the colors way too much.

There's also Troll Slayer Orange if you're going all out.

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Another commission done. Client opted for me to not base these guys.

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>>50972155
How about something like in the pic? Glue some wires running across like its conduit. Can also get some plasticard and cut some different shapes for armor panels, then you can add rivets and such. Looking pretty neat so far.

>>50972753
Curiosity compels me to ask pricing and your time allocated per model?

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I made the wash with glue!

>>50972767
Took an hour and a half to finish the whole squad. (drybrushing and heavy washes are what makes them look good)
My current pricing is really really cheap, so these guys are going for $30
I'm changing my pricing model once my backlog is done to something to the tune of $9/hour for assembly, $15/hour for painting.

>>50972795
Is that a snaptite sherman I spot?

How much paint should come out of a paint pot and onto my palette? Duncan is my source for everything but he seems to take a fuckload more paint out of his pots than I think necessary.

>>50972155

I use this to make details such as pipes and shit
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROLL-MAKER-Tool-to-make-all-kind-of-tubes-tentacles-wires-with-Green-Stuff-/271429674996

You could also get some aluminum foil mesh stuff to make covered areas, or find some nice bits of terrain (grates, hatches etc) you can press into greenstuff to make a physical thing to slap on. Personally I'd also cut around the missile turret to have it inset into the hull and then build up some detail around that

>>50972827
No, It's a flames of war one (By battlefront) Its turret is meant to be put in the hole so you can spin the turret for gameplay purposes but you build the turret and tank itself. Usually people put a magnet in that hole instead though.

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Working on a DA today.

>>50972806
>drybrushing and heavy washes

No shit batman.

I'm just always interested to know what people are paying themselves for commission work.

>>50973082
>No shit batman.
I only wanted to make it clear that I wasn't painting these to be showcase pieces. They're a tabletop standard speedpaint.

>>50970899
A fellow purple skitarii fan I see,=. You have good taste, anon.

>>50972891
>how long is a piece of string?

Enough that you can paint what you need. and also so that you can thin it properly.
If you can only get so little water on your brush then if you have too little paint on the palette you will over-thin it and it will separate.

Bear in mind that a smaller puddle of paint will dry out faster, so you may not actually save paint.

>>50971742
Make sure you're matching up the leg/hip pieces too. There are different leg assemblies indicated on the instruction sheet: F3- F5, B3-B5, and so on.

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Rusted and dirty? I dunno. First model ever btw.

>>50973126
That does make it hard to critique them. They look like models you spent an hour and a half on, but presumably you know you can do better.

>>50973297
Yeah, the client is an asshole and on top of that wants me to paint nazi Kriegers and handed me something like 25 grenadiers (FUCK Krieg Grenadiers), a command squad, and a bunch of random other shit (including those Armageddon dudes)

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I'm finished with this Looted rhino/trukk now. What do you guys think? C & C please

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That's all

>>50973575
It's a good enough conversion, but dude, leave the 'optics' on the hatch either dark, paint them cracked or use more than black and red.

>>50970284
I need to finish painting the models from Silver Tower and the SC Sylvaneth box I have lying around
I plan on getting Magnus too.

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>>50970284
As nobody's posted it, I stole this from an anon in here.

>>50973659
Alright, thanks, Ill probably put more black on them

>>50973602
Overall paint neater, even with orks. And watch out for mold lines. The gunners cupola ring is the worst of both.

Are the tracks mud-free, or is the contrast between dark metal tracks and dark brown mud just too low to be visible in these photos? The mud also often looks very much painted on instead of splattered on, especially along the side, front and rear being better.

Outline details more. The orks teeth, between the horns of the skull and the straps tied to them, etc. Get some dark wash in between and watch it pop.

The drybrushed metal has gotten some very significant highlights, whereas the dark mustard bits of the hull have very little. Seek the happy medium.

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>>50973816
Thanks for the response

The tracks do have mud on them, I'm just assuming it's the sides. I tried to follow Duncan's guide for typhus corrison so I generally did what he did.

Thanks though, I guess I need a stronger highlight on the dark mustard hull and more washes on the Bone with highlights?

>>50972146
very un-tidy

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>>50967940 here; so I don't exactly know what phosphex blasts look like but from what Google tells me this is... vaguely similar. I'm just messing around making renders, but is pic related at all similar to what >>50967979 had wanted? Or have I completely missed the mark?

Hey /wip/!

I've been working furiously on some kill teams over the holidays and after building and painting around 30 basic infantry I'm getting sick of basic bitches. I want to start working on a bigger build for a change.

What should I go for, kitbashing / sculpting a Kataphron Destroyer for my GFs Skitaari, scratchbuilding a renegade sentinel for my heretics or something else entirely for one of my available kill teams: Heretics, Skitaari, GSC or Nurgle CSM?

>>50972753
Someone paid for this?

THE mold lines REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

>>50974272
That's what triggers you? Not the untidy mess of red that's supposed to be the goggles or the fact that they're painted in 3 shades of shit?

Do airbrushes help the quality of your painting, or do they mainly just make painting go much quicker?

I'm thinking of getting one but it's hard to justify the price

>>50974355
thinner, smoother coats for base coats, better blends, especially on larger areas, but also much quicker.

>>50974355
both. An airbrush makes for some of the best transitions, osl, and blending, but you need to be good with it. It can also be used for very fast and easy basecoats, and it's practically needed for vehicles if you don't want to spend a month priming/basecoating it. You can also use it to speedpaint armies and make them look good, so it's useful for every skill level.

>>50974374
>>50974383
What should I spend on an airbrush? I don't know if it's one of those 'get what you pay for" kind of tools, but I do want my stuff to look pretty good.

>>50974099
Anon who asked for this in the last thread here.

Yeah, that sort of idea. The best way to describe phosphex is as a 'living flame', it seeks out life in order to burn it. It's described as being a very pale green.

My list contains a lot of phosphex artillery and I just had this idea of covering the battlefield in really cool flexible blast templates. The one on the left is probably closer to how it would look, but maybe some little flame peaks and so on would make it even better. Thanks so much for messing around with it, even if you don't end up making them it gives me ideas on how to do it myself.

>>50974454
just like with brushes and miniatures, go cheap so you can experiment and do whatever you want with it. I don't have experience with this personally, but http://taleofpainters.blogspot.de/2016/12/review-1289-kmoon-dual-action-airbrush.html these guys I follow did a review on a p cheap one. Eventually, you can work your way up to a more expensive brand, but most of the cost comes with being able to actually get replacement parts for it, as well as things like dual action or whatever. There are guides all over about airbrush care, usage, and what you need to buy along with it as well.

>>50974454
It is a "get what you pay for" kind of tool, but not to a ridiculous extent, starting out you don't need the expensive stuff really, though if you intend to keep using it, that's not a bad investment, the stuff can last for a very long time.

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Well WIP, after eight years, I relapsed. Looked through my old stuff, salvaged the brushes and paints I could, and just a minute ago made an order for new paints, basing material and green stuff. Tomorrow I'll see about picking up a box of shit to make.

Guess I'm officially one of you again.

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>>50974609

One of us, nigga.

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I asked in the w40kg but i didnt get much response so i thought id ask here
Are there rifle grenades that could destroy tanks? I want to do pic related for some of my tankbustas but i want something to go off of incase someone gets anal that "That cant be s8 ap3!"

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>>50974609
Welcome to the autism club, my friend.

>>50974667
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ENERGA_anti-tank_rifle_grenade

>>50974667
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M31_HEAT_rifle_grenade

>>50974493
Would the flame peaks still be green, or actual flame-coloured?

>>50974617
>>50974686
Your acceptance is appreciated, compatriots. Gonna' see about getting pictures and shit when everything comes together/gets here to contribute. I had the need to paint, and none of my friends do this shit anymore, so I guess you fags will have to stand in as """""friends""""".

>>50974775
The description in the Horus Heresy Betrayal book is 'a seething, liquid mist which burns with an eerie white-green flame'. I'd say it's whiter closer to the source and the flame peaks themselves would be green.

>>50973061
I painted some DA for a client a while ago. Military bloke, really nice and paid me a bit more than I was asking.

This guy right here is my favorite pose. It's like Johnny but update.

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>>50974879
I'll see what I can do. I can either do transparent and green or whitish and green (transparent will be more flexible than whitish) but I don't have the materials to have it transparent /and/ white (yet).

I could try mixing the two, dunno though, never tried it.

What are the deal with paints?

Are there brands that have pretty much the exact same hue as GW's and the same quality? Are GW's paints more expensive because name brand or are they of higher quality and spread better?

>>50975030
>Are there brands that have pretty much the exact same hue as GW's and the same quality?

There are other brands with enough paints that you can mix whatever you want that are of equal or better quality. Vallejo, Reaper, P3 come to mind.

> Are GW's paints more expensive because name brand or are they of higher quality and spread better?

They are more expensive than many art-store acrylics because they have more pigment and it's finer.
They are slightly more expensive than some of the other miniatures brands because Games Workshop, but honestly it's not a massive difference, so availability in your area and personal preference will probably be the determining factor.

>>50975001
Transparent and green would be better then, especially if it makes them more flexible.

The flexibility is the key, if that wasn't important I'd just make tons of blast templates out of plasticard and model flames onto them. I'd want them to mould to the terrain, to make it really look like they're part of the board. Maybe just a really pale green would work, white-green is a fairly vague colour description anyway.

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>>50975030
> hue
Okay so a while back GW switched their paint line's (Citadel's) names to make them more copyrightable (Bleached Bone is Ushabti Bone, etc.) but some of their formulas must have changed because the new paints don't always match the old paints perfectly.

Vallejo's Game Colour line has paints that match the old Citadel paints pretty well and had similar names (VGC Bonewhite is basically Bleached Bone). But because of the Citadel change sometimes VGC paints don't exactly match the new /renamed Citadel version perfectly.

> quality
Eh. Keeping in mind I've only used Citadel, Vallejo Game Colour, and Vallejo Model Colour I'd say VMC is probably the best of the three but some ranges do certain colours better. I really enjoy working with Citadel purples but I prefer Vallejo blues. A lot of this boils down to personal taste.

Also both lines have different technical paints and premixed effects the other doesn't, so take advantage of that. Citadel has things like Typhus Corrosion, Nurgle's Rot, and Blood for the Blood God. Vallejo has a wide selection of less expensive mediums (thinner, matte, gloss, crackle, metallic medium and probably more)

> price
Citadel ones are more expensive because of the brand but at least at my FLGS they're not much more expensive than the Vallejo or P3 paints. It seems most miniature paints are around the same price point. The only standout is the new white-top Citadel metallics like Retributor Gold, Stormhost Silver, etc. which are a lot more expensive. However after using them I think they're worth the price if you don't have access to an airbrush and Vallejo Model Air metallics (VMA metallics are the gold standards for metallics imo).

Sorry for the ramble, here's a Warrior.

>>50975253
well, define "flexible". The material I use is odd; it's fairly rigid when it's cold but flexible when warm with a thickness of about 1cm - I haven't experimented with the flexibility specifically. I don't really know how to describe "how flexible", but they tend to return to the original shape after a while + depending on temperature.

I'll mess about with different thicknesses, plus I suppose will learn to sculpt terrain by hand, and report back at some point.

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>>50975254
That warrior kinda' reminds me of something.

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>>50971676

>>50970447
that looks fucking awesome dude. really dig the style.

>>50975401
That made me laugh. It's just a new evolution the Norn Queens are trying out, can't headshot the Synapse creature if it doesn't have a head!

>>50975254
Thanks, that's very helpful.

Would it be bad to use Citadel paints with some Vallejo colors? Also would it hurt to use Citadel paints with Vallejo's less expensive mediums when required? Are they basically the same as far as Mediums are concerned?

>>50974330
Man the whole thing is nuts. Good on you though there's a sucked born every minute. I can't believe someone would pay 60$ for this mess. Makes me wonder what it costs to have GOOD work comitioned.

>>50975128
I'll check out some of those brands, thanks anon

>>50975586
>Makes me wonder what it costs to have GOOD work comitioned.
>comitioned

A lot. Considering that it's highly skilled work that takes hours it gets expensive fast.

Affordable services that do an ok tabletop job don't pay their artists much and cut a lot of corners (usually some airbrush trickery that looks impressive and then basic highlights on the brushwork)

>>50974272
An autist paid for these, yes. Did I mention he plays nazi krieg? Why would I put my best work into his meme army when I can paint this shit in no time and collect my cash?

>>50975717
>Why would I put my best work into his-

Anything less than ones best is an atrocity.

>>50975586
Generally speaking, for individual models, anywhere from the price of the model, up to triple the models base price.

For painting a unit of dudes, I generally just say whatever the price of the unit is, unless its got a lot of fucking intense details.

>>50975775
>Anything less than ones best is an atrocity.
not when you're a commission painter and you have to produce volume in order to keep money coming in.
You take the utilitarian route and give your customers something just good enough so that they'll keep coming back. Within the next couple months this guy will have done about $1000 of business with me.

>>50975783
>For painting a unit of dudes, I generally just say whatever the price of the unit is, unless its got a lot of fucking intense details.
This is where I started, but then demand shot up and I had to go to an hourly rate

>>50975775
>Anything less than ones best is an atrocity.
except that commission painters have different levels of work, the lowest and cheapest normally being pretty shit, but 'tabletop' quality, and nowhere near their best.

>>50975561
> Would it be bad to use Citadel paints with some Vallejo colors?

Not at all, I mix and match freely. They're both acrylic paints so they won't have any adverse reaction with each other. The only real danger is if you start using one paint and then switch to the equivalent colour in the other line then the match might not be totally perfect. (I used Ushabti Bone / VGC Bleached Bone as an example but I think that match is actually perfect.)

> use Citadel paints with Vallejo's less expensive mediums

I do this too. The only thing to keep in mind is that Vallejo's mediums are kind of a milky white colour in the bottle but dry clear. So if you mix it with a blue paint you'll get a lighter blue paint on the palette but it will dry to the colour you expect.

>>50975876
> VGC Bleached Bone
I meant VGC Bonewhite, derp.

>>50975717
I like nazis.

I understand the rush paint job but the mold lines sir. Come on :)

>>50976057
>I like nazis.
people who try to inject their nazi fetish into 40k are usually viewed as not good.
As for the mold lines, yeah I goofed, but the guy thinks these are old metal Krieg guys so fuckem.

>>50972146
Looks good fellow Prosperine, good colour. Just make sure to clean them spills at some point.

I'm quite a fan of using a black liner pen to go over those recesses, it dries like a soft black if that makes sense. It also gives the mini a sortof cel-shaded look which I am a big fan of.

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I was starting to think I'd hit the wall with this model because I wasn't making quick enough progress for my liking, but when I put everything together I can see it taking shape!

There's a light at the end of the tunnel finally!

>>50976355
>barechest
>leg armour
>fahbulous wings
JoJo/10

AWAKEN, MY RUBRICS

Anyone know the right GW paints to drybrush Dark Angels with? Is it helion green and then wash with bieltan green?

>>50970811
I love me some Mangus and it's looking great so far anon. However I am so disappointed with GW with just how boring he looks model wise...

>>50976355
Very nice anon

>>50972753
i hope you're going to clean up the goggles, there's red all over the silver bits

>>50976554
I haven't actually seen any conversions or reposes of him yet, which is strange considering his size and status. Would love to see one mid-flight with glaive poised to smash some unlucky fucker.

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>>50976552
the similar line in the citadel system for dry brushing is caliban green, niblet green, then helion green.

my thoughts would be caliban, niblet, helion, then wash with 1 lahmian: 1 nuln or 1 biel-tan:1 nuln. i don't drybrush my DAngels so i've no real clue.

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Alright guys, I am back working again and now am making some cash to really expand my painting set up. Would love to get into airbrushing now but am not all that knowledgeable on it. What kind of equipment do I need? What's the best in quality or for the dollar? What should my price range be?

>>50976599
Neither have I. If I could would love to seem him made to look as if he has cut an Imperial Knight in 2 or blast a hole through it. Though with how much work that would be may just be cooler to have him crushing one.

>>50976643
A friend of mine just bought a little Iwata compressor and brush. Seems like a good mid tier setup and its fairly quiet if you isolate it from vibrating the table.

Prepare to drop nearly $200 on everything after supplies.

>>50976599
The way he is cast makes it incredibly difficult to change his pose. Actually, there is no way to do it short of resculpting every joint and large parts of his limbs.

>>50976737
Fuck, that's a huge shame. It basically stops anyone short of the highly skilled.

>>50976699
That'd be fucking rad but you'd be buying a knight just to use as scrap! I wish I was that rich.

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>>50976718
$200 bucks is certainly not bad for what I do for a living. Also come spring I maybe moving to a new spot where I will have my own room to down all my painting, will be indoors. Not sure if that is the healthiest thing but I plan on setting it up with big table to do everything. Goal I have in mind is too get good enough one day that I can do commissions when I am in my lay off seasons.

>>50976773
I know, nothing I would ever willingly buy just to make as decorations but if you ever get your hands on a beat up Knight that is beyond saving then you certainly know what to do with it.

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Still refining my skills but here is a 'Tusken Raider' I painted.

Tusken Raiders are from the 1977 movie "Star Wars".

>>50976804
Definitely. It's a shame Magnus is so repose-unfriendly. I suppose on a regular miniature, you can afford to make some minor mistakes but with a model that big, any sortof of fuckup, however minor, is going to stick out like a sore thumb. I just imagine the work required just to repose the outstretched arm to be pointing upwards in an L shape. You'd have to cut the joint, a good bit of forearm and bicep, then create an internal support, sculpt the entire thing and join every muscle and vein visible. And that's if you avoid the runes and marking, then you'd have to do those too.

>>50976823
Mold lines anon, make sure to remove them. Also the wash makes it look way too shiny and glossy. Paints look nice and thin though, just practice a steady hand and try to get things even.

>>50976823
Would be greatly improved by removing the moldlines before painting and giving him a sandy/rocky base, holmes.

>>50976823
hello, bait

>>50976823
>Tusken Raiders are from the 1977 movie "Star Wars".
thanks for that. I couldn't remember where I saw that guy

>>50976855
Aw come on anon, nothing a little green stuff can't fix!

>>50976862
>>50976869

Thanks for the feedback!

>>50976615
I know people occasioanlly shit on Citadel paints here. I'm colourblind and having this sort of guide to help me highlight reds and greens (deuteranopia) means I can actually paint those various hues and have it look nice for others. I really appreciate that they put this out.

>>50976940
Citadel are not bad paints, just grossly overpriced. I have gotten into P3 and Vallejo and haven't looked back yet. Still use some citadel paints cause they are unmatched and their washes and metallics will always be my go to choice.

>>50976940
i hadn't thought of that. i guess that's a pretty unique advantage of the citadel "system". i use a lot of drap vallejo paints and they would be a nightmare if i were color-vision impaired.

>>50976961
>grossly overpriced

lol. They're 50 cents a pot more than the Vallejo paints at my FLGS.

>>50976994
Comparing the sizes though I feel like I get a lot more paint with Vallejo than Citadel.

>>50977006
Vallejo ones have 5 mL more paint in them. But personally I think the big thing is that the dropper bottle is wildly superior to the Citadel paint pot (even if the new Citadel pot is way better than the old Citadel pot). Dropper bottles make it so much easier to mix paint (count drops instead of eyeballing brushloads), easier to keep clean, easier to swap into a different dropper bottle if needed, etc.

Only downside is that Vallejo yellows make me want to kill myself.

>>50972155
Christ, I haven't seen a deodorant tank since third edition or so

You should post in when you're done, I'd be interested to see it.

>>50976785
It's possible to do it indoors with a DIY spray booth/box next to a window with a fan, the fumes aren't nearly as bad as rattle cans since there's no propellant. Amazon has Iwata stuff for cheap, iirc.

>>50976773
>>50976804
You could always recast some parts from a knight or go the chinaman route. If it's base decorations it hardly matters if its recast.

>>50974100
Get some chaos ogryns

>>50976718
An 15$ airbrush,a 50$ harbor freight aircompressor adn 1/4 to 1/8 hose (8$) and a regulator/water trapcombo is less then a hundred m8

>>50974609
go to warhammmer tv. even if you don't use GW stuff, duncan is godly.

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I'm dipping my toes into recasting. How do you think this would look on the table top? I use Guard Blobs fairly often and these guys would look nice in the back ranks.

>>50978045
i mean if you're just making up numbers sure,no problem, but if you can work a bit of variety in- maybe even have the one pose you do be a bit more of an action pose.

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>>50978045
Based on this guy

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>>50978053
They are pretty much the canon fodder, the rest of my dudes are a bit more posed.

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>>50978110
cool, you used the scroll reader to do a medic, too

>>50978127
It felt like the right thing to do, I think it works well to be honest.

>>50978110
>a wave of helmets and flak armour
Feels good anon. Get movement trays, it helps a lot.

>>50978186
I never even considered trays. I'll recycle the trays I use for Lord of the Rings. Good thinking!

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>>50978045
>I'm dipping my toes into recasting. How do you think this would look on the table top?

As long as they're the ones standing in the back, I don't even think anyone would notice.

>>50978253
That's the plan. Just for putting bodies in the blob

>>50972795
It's very green, is it American, British or Russian?

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>>50973061
I have one too! But I converted him from a bunch of different arms cause of the older kit

>>50978491
for a moment I thought you'd chopped off the handle, it being black camouflaged it with his leg

>>50973082
it's not an easy skill to master, and those who do it well have the requisite cognitive skills and coordination to succeed in other more remunerative fields, so truly "good" commission work is generally considered unaffordable by the average person. Same reason only the rich had/have portraits/icons/religious friezes painted

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More progress on my Sons of Horus Chaplain, I need to touch up a few messy bits and re highlight the backpack and also the helmet crest but almost done now (apart from the obviously missing arm but i've got as far as priming that so I guess it's progress)

How big are usual "average" bases? Does it really matter? I know everything's to a certain scale, but surely it doesn't matter if the thing a figure is standing on is a tad larger or smaller than everything else. Yet, I see all the bags in my LGS have specifically small sized, medium, large, etc. bases. I haven't checked so they may vary from company to company, but it doesn't look like it.

>>50970284
I want to get into wargaming in general. It's always seemed so expensive but now that I have a degree and I think I should be able to land a decent job, I hopefully should be able to buy and paint (and maybe even play) shit.

That is, if my job lets me have free time.

>>50978435
Canadian Sherman Firefly.

>>50978839
Very nice. What weapon are you going to put in his right hand?

>>50979203
Thanks, I'll just be using the standard mace the model comes with.

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Im bleeding, run out of superglue, used more greenstuff than i thought possible and the epoxy im using both looks and smells like semen.

Progress is good, soon the warlord will walk.

>lack of desk space is a significant issue, i cant have his legs on the table in the pose ive chosen

What's the right scale to match vehicles in 40k?
I want to include some chimeras and hydras in my army but i don't like the model so i was thinking about substituting a bmp or shilka.

>>50979332
what do they weigh? im imagining like 15 lb

>>50979600
About 1/48. Some people go with slightly larger, but really I'd just install the oversized 40k hatches on a 1/48 vehicle than go with something that would look cartoonishly bigger.

>>50979332
You would think you wouldn't have to do that when you pay like $2000 for the model.

I painted some stuff over the holidays but when I took a photo of it, it looked like dogshit

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>>50975440

>>50979713
Honestly many Forge World models require a lot of cleanup and green-stuffing. Infantry models are usually okay but some tanks are notorious for not fitting together well. I have a Sicaran whose turret fits together snug but the body is going to need some work to not rattle around.

Plastic vehicles are so much better it's not even funny.

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>>50979147
>How big are usual "average" bases?

Normal humans, sneaky gitz, Panzees, and the like all use 25mm bases. Note that the Space Marine in [pic related] is an older model and mounted on an old 25mm base.
These days, dead 'ard models like Space Marines deserve 32mm bases. Anything truly manly and heroic (Eldrad Ulthran, for example) should shoot for this size as well, even if they're not seven feet tall and built like an armoured beer refrigerator.
Terminators and Tau Crisis Suits are on 40mm bases.
Bigger models run the gamut from 60mm to 120mm depending on how much they overshadow a normal guy.

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First attempt. Not great, not atrocious.
Looks like Imperial Guard as imagined by Reaper Miniatures

>>50979932
Youre not going to get much better than that out of a press mold

>>50979969
It's good enough for now, but I'll try a finer putty next time or move onto resin and silicone.

>>50979932
That's better than I expected.

>>50970284
I will at least start my Tau.
I will paint all my space marines before buying any more space marines.
Who am I kidding?

>>50974609
Better relapse into something that you find fun than suicidal idolization I suppose.

>>50980106
>Who am I kidding?
Only yourself.

>>50980025
I'm the other guy who's wanting to get into casting; so far I can recommend oomoo 30 (but use it before it expires) and reusable mold making material (composimold is the brand name, but you can find it at Hobby Lobby).

>>50980151
Whoa, thanks for the information anon!

>>50980151
I got a tub of Amazing Remelt for $20 from there, and I've been saving some significant time and effort on basing by making my own resin bases. The stuff liquifies in about a minute or so, I use an old Yugioh tin as my mold box, and about 15-20 minutes later it's cooled, hardened and good to go. Definitely recommend it as it's not as expensive as 2-part silicone, yet firmer and more reliable with resin than oyumaru.

>>50970284
To have a fully painted 2000pt Blood Angel army.

At least want to make it to 1500pt.

>>50970284
To make a sexy Mordian Kill Team.

>>50979932
not bad, anon.
probably won't look incredible painted, but it's acceptable at least.

>>50973246
I was aiming for A1 through A7 but I accidentally clipped a bunch of legs and got them mixed up. I was able to track down the A2 leg but I'm not sure if I got A3 or some other leg.

So I am thinking of making my own Grav-guns using a mold press with the one gun I have. How good do these tend to look? Is it worth doing it?

>>50980526
I've got a second one in now. I used a little less putty and I have it setting. I'll post it later or in the next thread. Given that they are for the back ranks, I don't think incredible results are really necessary.

>>50980564
see >>50979932
He's doing the press molds

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>>50980239
>>50980167
Right, yeah, I think it's actually called Amazing Remelt - I let my casting silicone expire because I was so afraid to mess something up, but now if I screw up I can just microwave the scraps and re-pour, no problem.

Right side is original (3D printed, sanded up to 2K, sealed with polyurethane), middle is first cast (and ruined mold - didn't let it cool enough) and left side is epoxy resin with alcohol ink, sanded/sealed with PU.

>>50980592
Whoops, nope, wait, the 3D printed model is only sanded with 150 - but then it was acetone smoothed.

>>50980592
Yeah, I love the stuff. I just got a tub and my microwave for Christmas, but my most recent paycheck hasn't deposited yet because of the holidays, so I've been using a spare mason jar until I can get a glass measuring cup. Even still, I can just wait for it to solidify in the jar and peel it off to be remelted and reused.

My only worry is getting a thin strand of material from my mixing rod on my hands, because it washes off kinda weirdly. Outside of that, though, definitely recommend picking some up with some vaseline for mold release if you're ever thinking about casting something.

>>50980707
I use legos for the enclosure, works pretty well. Apparently the stuff's foodsafe and recommends you use olive oil - works well, the original popped right out and the cast peeled out with very little problems.

>>50979897
Centurion always looks so cute.

If I want to paint a super dark purple, like almost black with a hint of purple, where's the best place to start? I've heard there's some Vallejo black paint that is just a really dark purple, but I'm not sure which one it is. Naggaroth Night, while close, is actually too light for what I want, for example.

I'd appreciate something out of the pot, even if it's something like WarColours taking a few weeks out of Cyprus, if only because I want to be able to order more when I get more models ready to paint.

>>50981231
maybe black with purple glazes and washes.

>>50981292
I've thought of that, and the thing with black paints is they're usually not actually pure black. Most of them, when thinned enough, tend to be more of a blue or even turquoise (in the case of, say, P3 Coal Black). I'm wondering if there was a paint that was like that, but with a purple base instead, so that way I wouldn't have to overcompensate with the washes and glazes, and basically fight against my paints to make them work the way I'd like.

>>50980564
normally I would suggest buying the parts from ebay but

>devastator kit grav cannons are 10 bucks each lel

my advice? spam melta or plasma instead

>>50981231
Vallejo Game Colour Dark Prussian Blue is the deepest I could find.

Serious question from someone who is 100% new to this hobby and knows absolutely nothing other than the models look neat:

Why does everybody make such a big deal about having the "correct" models? It can't be just aesthetics, right? I've seen other people play MTG with just paper printouts and they're fine with that, so what does it matter if your figure is slightly non-canonical - do you get disqualified or such from games at your LGS?

>>50981468
with Games Workshop branded games, a lot of the hobbying and gaming is done in actual Games Workshop stores, as well as just independantly owned games stores. in the actual GW stores, they enforce rules such as 'model has to be modelled with the equipment you're using' or 'no third-party bits' in an effort to reinforce company brand and monetise the system a bit more.
outside of this, it rubs off on players, to a degree. you might find autismolords who will get shitty if you tell him your guardsman with a rifle is a stand-in for a guardsman with a plasmagun, but most people will be cool.

>>50981468
>>50981505
to draw a simile, you would be able to use paper printouts of cards among friends, but not at a wizards of the coast sanctioned tournament, and everything in a games workshop store is by their rules.

>>50981468
three reasons:

>reason one
if you see a model with a bolter and you assume it is a bolter, and then your opponent claims "oh no it's a meltagun see?" you will be upset. There is a huge difference in capabilities between the weapons.

>reason two
as if that wasn't bad enough, unscrupulous opponents will try to take advantage of the confusion. Oh that model you sniped wasn't actually the one with the meltagun. That was the other identical looking one! These models here that earlier I said were tactical marines are now devastators with grav cannons!

>reason three
GW likes selling models


Where I draw the line personally:

I want to be able to tell at a glance what the model is and what weapons it has, but beyond that anything goes.

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Just finished my late secret santa model that I posted a few threads ago. Took a few photos for the memories and thought I'd share some photos before he's all wrapped up and sent off. I call him Mog the Wanderer, former gladiator of the fighting pits of Tillia now mercenary for hire, alongside his companion Meg the Gnoblar Sorcerer and their pet bird Magie.

>>50970284
I aim finish my Tau by the end of the month so I can play some games with the lads. Then it's onto the Inquisition and maybe some Orcs if I feel up to it at the end.

>>50981468
>>50981505
>>50981521
To be the devil's advocate it kind of sucks when you've poured in literal months of effort into modelling everything WYSIWYG, painting it to the best of your ability, and making sure your army list is decent and legal and your opponent shows up with a pile of unpainted plastic, proxies, and says "Oh, I'm three points over but it's just three points right? What's the big deal?"

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>>50981561
And the back.

>>50981565
true, but the flipside on that is, to use an example, when i was just starting off in the hobby and i had a squad of 3 heavy weapons teams, I modelled one as a lascannon, one as a bolter and one as an autocannon because i thought i'd use the variety in the box.

it was kind of disheartening to learn most players would prefer i go and drop another fifty dollars instead of saying 'these three are modelled as all random shit but they count-as three heavy bolters' like it was hard to remember, or something, especially when your points are all down on paper.

I can understand how some poor sports could abuse the counts-as things like >>50981535
said but I honestly dont have the money to buy every physical combination of an infantryman that i could field.

>>50981603
you could magnetize the arms if you wanted

or just clearly mark your special/heavy weapons guys and make it very clear and consistent what weapons they have that game (like place a piece of paper next to the unit notating what the special and heavy weapons are)

finally, there are part sellers on ebay that will sell you specific parts for far less than the cost of a full kit. Certain win-at-all-cost weapons (like grav weapons) will be at a premium.

>>50981582
how did you get such a natural transition on the skin tone?

>>50981505
>in the actual GW stores, they enforce rules such as 'model has to be modelled with the equipment you're using' or 'no third-party bits'

Dunno about your experiences but the manager of my local gw is a total bro, as are his underlings - they don't particularly care about wysiwyg or paint or third party bits. For example I've played the manager 3 weeks in a row with my new(ish) deathwatch force - I told him straight up that I wouldn't be able to do it until after new years because i'd only just assembled them and hadn't even primed them and he said it doesnt matter. Personally I'd rather play with a fully painted army but a combination of being very slow and detailed with paint and juggling 3 armies on the go and a titan maniple, I'd never get to play anything other than a 500 point match

>>50981683
a redshirt in a store here in sydney told me while he's cool with proxies and unfinished models, counts-as etc for casual play in store, GW apparently send undercover people around to make sure the managers are enforcing policy, so if thats true i can understand how some stores could be real nazis about it

>>50981603
>like it was hard to remember, or something, especially when your points are all down on paper.
in large games, especially with armies like imperial guard, you can have many dozens of models. If each unit has 1-2 proxy weapons it does actually get to be annoying to remember. Was that squad the melta squad or the plasma squad? or was it just a lasgun squad?

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>>50981656
I still use old GW paints, but the technique was to do a solid base layer, followed by two layers of highlights (each lighter and focused on raised edges), before washing all the skin in the same colour as the base layer. Just did it off the fly and I'm pleased it turned out so well!

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Haven't made any notable progress since the last photo but I got a new phone so the model at least looks nicer

>>50981705
Most redshirts are just hobbyists who thought they lucked into a job where they get to play, teach, and sell their hobby to other people and only later realize there are rough sales quotas and harsh corporate overlords. Apparently they're paid poorly too.

>>50981505
>>50981521
>>50981535
>>50981565
Cool, thanks for the explanation guys.

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I made some sort of ship landing pad, figured it might be useful in some sort of spaceport or loading/unloading station. Not quite finished, though, need to get the second hydraulic arm made and touch up the joints. Dunno how the hell I'm planning to cast it but I'm sure I'll figure something out.

>>50981468
For reasons stated here >>50981535 magnetizing your models is fantastic as it gives you versatility in load out. It is however, a total pain in the ass to do as you have to now make multiple weapons that you want (and sometimes get more shoulder pads too if you are running a space marine army.)

>>50982017
I do it for vehicles but I don't bother for infantry as it tends to make them a bit wombly.

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Happy New Year, I converted this in the wee hours of 2017. Inquisitor, ordo Hereticus

>>50982189
why hereticus? wouldn't ordo mallus make more sense with the daemonhammer and terminator armor?

>>50982215
Yes indeed that would make sense... but right now his vibe in my head is hammering heretics. Now that you mention it he would probably be more hereticus-y if I put a bunch of fire stuff on him. Maybe I will make him a bro inquisitor.

How do I make painting less painful?

It takes 3+ hours to do infantry models to a mediocre standard, and I hate it. Bigger models, 5-10 easily. I like modeling and converting, and I like playing (40k), I just despise painting.

How am I supposed to make this not shit, or at LEAST go faster?

>>50982291
Batch painting is good. A 5 man squad paint all the leather, paint all the metal, whatever. Break it down.

>>50982291
learn to enjoy it, i guess. put on some music you like, set up a dedicated workspace, as you get experience you'll take more pride in your models and enjoy it more. share pictures of your progress with others.

otherwise, you can just learn to batch-paint factory line it and turn em out to tabletop standard quickly. one technique is prime white and then paint with washes.

>>50982291
one shortcut is find out what the most prominent colour on your model is ( for space marines, obviously their armour colour) and then buy a primer+basecoat rattlecan to save you doing that base layer.

>>50970284
Skelegates if you will

>>50982291
I use an airbrush to prime and block in the most prominent colors, and sometimes get some highlights on.

I also bought some 300 hours of audio books from a humble bundle.

Are you using the right brush for base colors? I found base colors a huge chore until I started using the right brush. The Citadel Base Brush (NOT the Basecoat brush) is really really nice I've found, probably the best and most useful brush in their whole line outside of the artificer brushes.

>>50982308
>>50982310
Batch painting is even worse to me. Congratulations, I went from 3 hours to have a fieldable model and a bunch of primered ones (like the rest of my LGS) to waiting 25+ to have any in a fieldable state. Not getting anything in particular accomplished that way.

As far as putting on music I like, I'm pretty sure I've memorized most of my library by now off the first few infantry squads, heavies, and vehicles. Dedicated workspace is a no-go in a 100 square foot living space.

>>50982336
Anyone make a Stegadon Scale Green rattle can for less than $7.50 a can? I'm willing to pay double for cans what I do now, but not more than that. Though a Rakarth Flesh can might honestly be better with how many fatigues I have to get done.

>>50982339
Winsor & Newton Series 7, size #1. If I go any bigger, too large for infantry; any smaller, and it's not gonna have any paint on it in the first place.

File: 99199999044_CITADELMEDIUMBASEBRUSH01.jpg (12KB, 600x620px) Image search: [Google]

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>>50982379
one of these will change your life

your W&N is much better for highlights and detail though

>>50982412
Doesn't seem like it, with how floppy the bristles on the Series 7 is. It can't do a straight line to save its life without splaying out or curving around.

>>50982421

You've either got a dodgy brush or you're doing something very wrong

>>50982421
I haven't played around with W&N brushes much personally so I can't say.

I'm not joking about the Base brush though. Short wide brush with slightly stiffer than normal bristles make for easy application base colors (and highlights too, if you are extremely lazy).

>>50982451
W&N aren't in the business of dodgy brushes, so whag would you guess I'm doing wrong?

>>50976643
I was going to post NONE PURER because of the guy on the left, then I saw the base.

Well played anon, well played.

>>50974667
That was one of the main uses of rifle grenades actually.

>>50976737
This. It was annoying how little you could change anything, it seems to be the case with the majority of GWs models.

>>50982421
I've had 2 of those series 7 brushes and honestly i far prefer the synthetic shit from army painter.

>>50982379
>
Winsor & Newton Series 7, size #1. If I go any bigger, too large for infantry; any smaller, and it's not gonna have any paint on it in the first place.

Size 1's are pretty great, but really not necessary for infantry especially if you're painting GW's stuff. Honestly I'd recommend a size 2 if GW is in fact what you're painting.

>>50982412
Ehh, I tend to just use an older brush that's lost its tip to basecoat. You really don't need a special brush for it, but it is a bit of a waste to destroy a good tip slapping paint on waves of line troops.

>>50983026
it isn't just the tip. The shape and stiffness really help a lot.

I thought the same of the GW drybrushing brushes, but the flat ended brush (rather than a point) and super stiff bristles are actually really good for drybrushing as well.

>>50983051
>it isn't just the tip. The shape and stiffness really help a lot.

That's what she said.

>>50983181
>now the first thing ya going ta want ta do, is make sure the tip is nice and wet. this will help later on, when you start really getting it into every nook and cranny

>>50970447
It could use... a Dozer blade of some type... Or a reinforced ram...

>>50983376
or a mega deff rolla

>>50981603

I once played a game of Necromunda where none of the other guys models even had arms... in fact he was using weaponless Space-Crusade Chaos Space Marines to represent an Arbites gang.

The guy stormed out when I won too... only time that's ever happened for me.

>>50983425

Yeah... though I guess it depends on what he's fielding it as... a few dirty great spikes may be easier to explain-away rules-wise.

I really want to loot a caestus assault ram and give it Robot Wars upright flipper legs so it's an ork titan ram..

>>50970246
Your painting would definitely benefit from some more paint thinning, but I like them overall. (but do something with the gems bud!)

>>50978696
This is why I'm always interested when the amateur-level commission painters turn up.
Usually they're either paying themselves a pittance for the hours put in and it's just subsidizing a hobby, or they're putting out ghastly work that looks slightly better than an unpainted army.

A friend asked me if they could pay me to paint some minis for them (they're an artist I've commissioned in the past) and I refused, but said I'd do them as a gift.
If I charged them for time spent they'd be able to afford maybe one model, but if I charged them what they could afford I'd make a hypocrite of myself (I've told them off for not charging minimum wage on commissions in the past).

I feel like the only people who can make actual money painting commissions are Demon and Slayer Sword winners who can then use that to justify charging even pretty basic hourly wages.

>>50983626
and people who charge an arm and a leg for going over a model in 5 minutes with an airbrush

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Just finished my Manhunter! What do you guys think?

I added skeletons to in his shadows and might add something in the pool of blood later.

>>50983712
Examples? I wonder how much time they're allocating per model.

>>50983766
All your colours are flat earthtones, so I think that it would have benefited from a greater value contrast- maybe making the skulls much brighter, and really picking out details like the skull kneepads.
More highlights on the fraying coat would be great as well.

The model has a striking silhouette, but the only real point of emphasis on your paintjob is his ripped abs, which are a lot lighter than everything else.

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My first go at a model

>>50983838
http://www.denofimagination.com/services/painting

>>50983901
Shoulders need a bit of touching up, maybe a little bit more shading on the whole model, and drill our the barrels for the bolter.

Does anyone have any good tutorials for painting realistic looking camouflage? I've got some 28mm British Army and Taliban I want to paint up and I want to have a go at doing camouflage, something I've always struggled with.

>>50983933
It feels expensive at the lowest levels and reasonable at the high ones, but I think that's just that paying for a subpar paintjob feels bad generally. I wouldn't want to be paid much less to do that kind of drudge work, especially when you consider the rest of their overheads.

>>50983901
>My first
Pretty dang impressive for a first mini.
Most people struggle with getting the paint in the right place even after they've been doing this for a while.

Only thing that stands out to me are the undrilled barrels.
Other than that a very nice tabletop standard level of painting.
Doing an entire army like that is gonna look fine.

>>50979932
>Not using a Lego frame
>Not using greenstuff+milliput (40/60)
>Not pressing
>Not calculating the aproximate volume of stuff you're going to use so you don't have that awful exccess of material

>>50983901
I've friends who had been in the bussiness for 5+ years and paint worse than that, so good job

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>>50970284
>What are your hobby resolutions for 2017?
I want to finish my sculpts and have my first KS.

>>50973146
I originallly wanted to make them Blue butwhen i saw the colour i figured it would be to bright for my taste, so i went with purple.

Anyone able to give me a rough size of a mutalith ?

I have a terrible urge to convert it into something of use to my Chaos army

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Test model for my DW. Holy shit fuck that templar shoulderpad.

>>50982189
You don't need to do this but a bitching fur coat might look nice on him

>>50984406
>>50970284
>Happy new year anons. What are your hobby resolutions for 2017?
To Develop Freehand skills. I want to be able to make those cool freehand banners, rhinos, and Imperial Knight armor plates like I see online. I want my Emperor's Children to roll onto the battlefield in PG-13 Implied/partial nudity (Hey there are kids there can't go full Game of Thrones here) decorated war machines.

>>50984766
If it was a higher res photo I'd be tempted to get nit picky over minor stuff, but otherwise it looks really good imo

Whats wrong with the shoulder? Stands out too much?

>>50984814
That's part of it, it's also just a hassle to work with white. Right now my own personal nitpicks are the eyes and the basing. I need to do something to spice up that martian terrain.

This guy is also magnetized. Not sure if I'll do that for every model or not.

I just got the GW artificer brush yesterday because it was 30% at my lgs, but I'm afraid to use it because I don't want to ruin it.

>>50984766
Maybe dry brush his base with lighter orange/beige so it it has more definition

>>50984843
Good idea, I have a pot of fire dragon bright that might do the trick

>>50984835
Buy some brush soap and clean it after you use it, it should last quite some time with that treatment.

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Guys, has anyone of you used Lustrian Undergrowth when basing? I'm torn between Astrogranite and Lustrian Undergrowth but I can't find any good pics of second one

>>50984874

Brush soap? Sounds like a silly question, but what's that? Can I get it at a hobby store?

>>50984933
This, probably. I hadn't much of a clue until now either.

https://youtu.be/DoovPge1Rq4

>>50984933
Your local hobby store (general hobby, not miniatures probably) or art store should have a supply of the stuff.
Basically it cleans out the paint residue from the bristles and conditions them, which will keep your brush in good condition for a very long time.
I've got brushes that are around a decade old that are still good because of that, worth every penny for more expensive brushes.
And the stuff is like $5 for a small pot that'll last a very long time.

>>50984933
What >>50985014 linked indeed, very good stuff.

>>50985014
>>50985041
>>50985053

Alright, thanks. I'll keep an eye out for it. I think everything is closed today, though.

>>50981918
are you a college student? maybe if so your college will have some 3d printers. I used a resin printer at my library to make some oversized ogryn and I can't even see the print lines because of how acurate the printer was.

>>50981791
is she winking?

>>50983766
the sloppy drybrushing makes this look like a McFarlane action figure from 1997

Is there anything i can do when the weather is humid and i want to prime my models with a spray can?

Man i hate living in northern europe where there only really 3 months where the weather is optimal to spray

>>50985888
When its humid here (Florida) I prime them in the sun and let them set for about an hour. They may still be tacky, then i bring them in and let them sit in the AC for some time until they dry fully. Seems to work for me.

>>50985888
If the humidity is better inside your house you could spray inside.
You'd just need to improvise a spray booth, or at least lay out some paper to catch the overspray.

Where there's a /wip/ there is a way!

I've been looking at converting a Goliath with the Guard 'Stealers instead of the regular Neophytes. I'd need to figure out which truck bits were which, probably when I'm not fucked up with the flu.
It also saddens me there's no conversion kit available for Stealers, separate from the box.

>>50983838
I've been trying to make the red pop more but I can't mix a lighter red without making it pink. I plan on doing a little bit more with the skulls but I kinda want the kneepads too be darkened. The whole theme of the game is incredible darkness so I kinda try to keep it subdued but your advice is incredibly helpful, thank you.

>>50985648
Ah man, it's not that bad. I didn't even drybrush much, just the bottom of the red coat with dirt and the top of the hat to make it look less dull.

>>50986546
Add yellow or orange (or even bone) to make the red brighter without turning it pink too much. Then a red wash over it to get a proper brighter red.

>>50986559
Ill give it a shot, thank you.

>>50983901
You got some spill over with colours in a few places, but that will come with time.The painting seems a little thick in places, and needs some shading and highlights, the red stands out the most for that. Its hands above most people's first attempt though so you're gonna be great in no time.

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How can I deal with this shit? It really scares me.

>>50986797
that's a surface tension effect, did you clean the model properly before painting?
Or accidentally handled it with greasy hands? Because that's the paint not holding onto certain areas.

>>50984908
Ive used it, and i'll say it works best with another texture on the base underneath. Like some dirt for a forest floor and then lustrian undergrowth for moss and stuff

>>50983766
Flat but buller

>>50986887
I understand. Shat should I do next? Just lay more paint?

>>50987085
ideally, degrease the model.

Let the paint you did get on dry, then basically clean it with some rubbing alcohol (no soaking, just a cloth with a little on it will do), then apply the paint again, it should stick just fine after that.

>>50987085
Just keep applying thin coats until you get a solid coat, if you cant or dont, then strip it and try again.

>>50986546
Have you seen MacFarlane action figures from 1997? I'm not saying this is the worst paint job I've ever seen or anything, but it's not very good

>>50985572
Until recently, I was, but my uni only got printers this past semester and they're all makerbots. The only other print lab on campus is for research purposes, as well.

I /really/ want an SLA printer.

>>50985888
Dunno if you know, but dehumidifiers are a thing. I've never had to use one myself (live in a VERY dry climate) but I've heard they work well.

>>50987132
>>50987136
If i use air brush I'll meet the same problem?

>>50987324
Yes, because paint (or anything, really) doesn't stick well to oils, if at all. Go and buy a bottle of isopropyl alcohol and it should fix it. Hell, even vodka might work, maybe.

>>50987399
Maybe i should wash model with soap even after covering it with primer?

>>50987411
Probably wouldn't hurt, just make sure it's fully dry before continuing work on it.

>>50987324
>>50987399
The source of the paint doesn't matter much, if anything a rattlecan primer (assuming it's proper stuff) can potentially just burn through it, but oils really fuck with paints ability to bond to pretty much anything. Anything that can gently degrease a surface will do, as long as it doesn't damage the paint around it too much.

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>Be me
>finds out about ragingheroes half a year ago.
>wants to back the Kickstarter to get the sick "Centaurs" for use as fiends of slaanesh
>find out the Kickstarter ended a week ago
>Cry
>They reopen pledge-manager to order more stuff*
>glint of hope
> *for original backers only
>REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
>Cry more
>Even the out of date metal Fiend of slaanesh is sold out on GW

Any of you know any alternative Models?
maybe convert a D-Eldar Cronos?

>>50987438
I would have suggested acetone since it works really well as a degreaser, but seeing as this is plastic it would burn straight through it.

>>50971074
That's one weird looking penis you have there

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>>50987458
did a quick search
Privateer Press Legion of Everblight Teraph

Found another conversion using plastic spiders from the goblin riders with plastic demonette parts to make D&D style driders.
Which you could of course also buy straight away.

Reaper and Antimatter games have a bunch of deep sea/underwater/deep one kind of creatures that I could see working for slaanesh with a pink skinjob and some black glossy eyes too.

>>50987478
which is why I was avoiding mentioning the stuff.
Plastic and acetone are not friends, and I don't want to see a new hobbyist scared off because someone gave him a tip that dissolved half his model.

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>>50987700
pic related for example.
Paint him a pale pink flesh shade overall, get rid off the dangly thing on his front, and paint his eyes black with gloss varnish.
Bonus points if you manage to paint his head like an engorged glans.