WIP: Work in Progress

>tfw the mold line runs through a bunch of armor studs and kneepad

How do I keep motivated /wip/?

>>50668988
I share progress.

I've got a list of people on facebook who don't mind seeing millions of pictures of minis, and every time I feel like stopping I take a picture of where I'm currently at and share it with them.
It's a short break, getting feedback while you're painting is nice, and it turns hobby from a lonely activity into something you can share with your friends.

>>50668737
>tfw the mold line runs down the center of the face

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About 80% done picture 1/2

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>>50669118
Damn iPhone flipping pics

>>50669118
>>50669143

You trying to break my neck?!

>>50669152
What chapter should the SM helmet be?

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>>50669173

Mine

>>50669118
it looks a bit bumpy, probably a primer issue

>>50669173
I think Crimson Fists would be cool

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Migrating this from the last thread.

Tips on painting minotaurs/bullgors?

I use Vallejo paints with Citadel washes...I haven't done this much skin at once before.

>>50669118
>>50669143

Kill two birds with one stone and use a collaging app to combine these and make them the right way up.

Your metals could use another highlight, they're very dark at the moment.

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>>50669348
They look better painted like fur

>>50669348
On larger areas of skin it's worthwhile to make your transitions smoother: what you can get away with on a small model's face looks weird on big minis.

Thin, translucent layers m8.

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Didn't get much response last time, but repostahn my Yuan-Ti wizard. Still a pretty shit painter, but I'm inching ever close to not being shit. Monk is a 6 month old miniature I painted for comparison.

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Just finished my Blightking champion. He's a kitbash of a Blightking, Orghotts Daemonspew and the head off Otto Glott from the Glottkin also some greenstuff bloated messed up flesh. I'm new too scultping and Nurgle is so forgiving.

>>50669704
I really like the basing and color scheme on your wizard, especially with the skin. Keep it up. The monk isn't quite as impressive. You should do it justice by stripping the paint off, cutting off the integral base, and going over it again.

Out of curiosity, do you actually use these in D&D or the like? The 30mm base seems kind of oversized for the standard 25mm grids that are usually used with D&D. Do you just hand wave it and let bases overlap, or do you use larger grids of some sort?

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>>50669725
And with his squad.

>>50669744

Yea the monk is an older mini from before I started experimenting with glazes and layering. I just find bones impossible to look good, can't figure out how to prime them well.

And yea I do use them. Most people don't mind the base overflowing a little bit into nearby squares. My 40mm based minis are mostly just for show though.

>>50669749
Oh fuck me are those Nurglings INSIDE of those guys? That is awesome.

>>50669704
firstly it's cool to see someones painted up a Bushido figure, secondly she looks so much nicer than your monk. I do think maybe the highlights could stand being slightly sharper though.

>>50668988
Don't wait for motivation - force yourself to do at least something on a project on a set schedule. If I come home and I'm wiped out, I still shade and highlight a little detail or something on a model, or scrape a few moldlines. When I actually am really juiced up to paint for a longer period I'm always happy to have extra progress, and it creates momentum

>>50669802

I agree, I'm still working out how to get good transitions to sharp highlights, though I did lose control of the skin highlighting on her upper torso unfortunately. And honestly, the Bushido minis are pretty nice (and obscure) cool to see someone else appreciates them. I've actually got several more I'm painting up - 3 Ro-Kan people for 4 elements masters, the time mage dude, and Itsunagi Ito.

>>50669725
pretty damn faultless. Pallette is a bit drab but that suits the subject at least

>>50669725
My only nitpick is that I can see the bands of colour in the transitions on his shoulder horn, it looks like you painted around instead of feathering up and down it.

>>50669725
>>50669749

These are fucking rad, great work anon.

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Vindicare is dope, but I'm relatively new to painting. I know the face mask needed to be more thinned.

>>50669987
Solid effort. The paints basically where it should be, everything's a bit flat though. Use washes to add some depth to the metallics and the skull on the base.

Just ordered some Necrons to expand my army:
3x boxes of warriors
3x boxes of immortals
2× boxes of lychguard
1x box of tome blades
A cryptek and an overlord

I love the winter bolstering that comes with the holidays.

>>50669725
>>50669749
Real nice.

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> 40c/104f and all my paints have melted through their containers and pooled into a giant mess of goo on the floor of my shed

>dont feel like walking through the great Simpson to buy new brushes from the general store, since mine all caught fire

>pet kangaroo doesnt want to play killteam, told me to fuck off while he drinks goon under the tree

who /sydneymodelling/ here
christ it's hot

>>50670042

Oh, yes! I have only basecoated thus far. I will highlight sometime in the next week or so if I can make time. I'll report back when he's done.

>>50670307
I'm pretty sure all the Aussies on the planet are actually working at our ski resorts in Banff.

Got the opposite problem here, week long cold snap and I can't go out and spray prime so I'm stuck assembling models and waiting.

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Battleship is now basically finished (a couple of small areas need to be touched up but that's about it).
I've got to paint the target arcs onto the base and then paint the ships name on.
Just wondering the best way to make sure I get it even looking and in the middle of the base. I've tried before and it just ends up looking wonky and bad.

>>50670655

Nice green blue blend. Is this the Scourge equivalent to the UCM Beijing, or is it one of the smaller ones?

>>50670677
Thanks, I think blues and teals are basically the only colours I use anymore and I need to branch out again.
Yea this things the same class as the Beijing.

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working on my bases for my harlequins. Can't decide if I want to brighten the base or keep it a little on the darker side so it doesn't contrast with my already dark color scheme. Also this is from my phone so it might be sideways and over sized.

>>50669793
They sure are, anon :).

>>50669885
The palette is slightly less drab in person. The photo is slightly washed out cause I can't use a camera properly.

>>50669930
Yeah, my transitions on that aren't as good as I was hoping. The lovely Australian summer made my shades dry extremely quick, so by the time I put it on and got to draging it out to smooth the transition it was half dried already so the outer ring would dry and leave a mark. To counter that I just did bands of thinned shade, obviously not thin enough. The blown up photo makes it more noticeable, but it is still there, nonetheless.

>>50669971
>>50670267
Thank you, kind anons :).

>>50671011
I wonder if a drying retarder would be enough to counter your Aussie daystar?

Would anyone here happen to have a 1/100 model tank to compare against a can of soda? I'm looking into more models lately and want some scale that I'm more familiar with.
Also, are Zvezda models good? I got a Revel kit last year and didn't care for the plastic they used.

>>50669725
>>50669749
>amazing paintjob
>photos with multiple shots in them
>still less than 1 MB per image

Amazing how that works out. The one person who actually can justify posting giant 10 MB collages has the decency to crop and resize. Fucking amazing, I guess there really is a correlation between intelligence and painting ability.

>>50669725

How do you do the different colors on the green plate. I think people told me it was just washes and highlights in the past but mine never looks like that. If it's a wash it looks dirty, if I clean up the wash, it looks plain. Did you do blending?

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Just got this in the mail, thank you Texanon! Yours is on its way as well, so don't be discouraged!

I have no clue what the metal helicopter in here is for, though.

>>50669034
Just don't share at /wip/ cause these niggas gonna put you down with their negativity

>>50671572
/wip/ gets the finished versions of minis I'm actually proud of, rather than the ones I just got painted for play.
Facebook is a hugbox where I get motivation, /wip/ is where I get critique or the silence that means it's an average paintjob with nothing obviously wrong with it.

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>>50669034
do you have an actual page or do you just share it on your wall? I ask because i have a page with a half-dozen likes and i want to grow that number for no reason i can discern.

>>50671605
It's a rough crowd but I wouldn't trade it for anything else

I love you /wip/

>>50671623
I instagram and tumblr the stuff that I share with /wip/, I spam a filter of my FB friends with progress pics and don't feel guilty because the silly bastards opted in. I'd like to get onto the official webpage one of these days, but should probably pick up a lightbox when I'm less skint.

If you want to grow a tumblr following, try to get reblogged by Robbie McNiven (a-40k-author), fucking everyone into 40k on tumblr follows him.

>>50671666
It's really good to get critique in here, I'm trying to improve to where I feel like I wouldn't be wasting everyone's time entering Golden Daemon in a year or two.

>>50671738
I just want my dudes to look good and make me proud.

I've been doing a very simple black power armour for my marines, but I'm painting each one with care and love, instead of batch painting 30 guardsmen at a time like in my main army. They aren't the best but make me happy

>>50669688
>>50669654
That's good, thanks. I'll keep it in mind.

I've been experimenting with wet blending and counter-layering to generate smoother transitions across shades.

But what I was more wondering was in terms of what colors to use to generate the skin tones in >>50669348.

Most of the paint schemes I've found use airbrushes. I don't have one.

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More Tsons

>>50671572

Who you callin a nigga nigga

>>50671770

https://youtu.be/jnAf9Cldbm0 and
https://youtu.be/2c3_SsR4AxM

have some of what you're looking for, but honestly just treat the Vallejo colours he's using as a starting point and start really learning to mix skin colours.

>>50671797
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5s7_WbiR79E

>>50671825
I'll have plenty of spare bits to try it on; the kit comes with like 3 times as many arms as you need.

Wish me luck.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-3-Airbrush-Compressor-Kit-Dual-Action-Spray-Air-Brush-Set-Tattoo-Nail-Art-/140975810534
Does this airbrush kit look viable? It's kind of suspiciously cheap, I would have expected twice this price.

>>50671909
I cant speak for the compressor, but I bought a $30 master airbrush around 2 years ago and I love it. Its not fancy, but it gets the job done for me.

>>50671938
Same. They are Iwata clones so while the tolerance is not super great, the design itself is solid. I am doing some two tone priming on my Bloodletters with it right now.

>>50671957
Do they dit Iwata parts, or did they just copy the action?

>>50672012
>do they fit
Fuck my phone

>>50671957

The tolerances and trigger smoothness are basically 99% of the reason you pay for a pricier airbrush.

If you don't give a shit about fit and finish and don't care because you're too ham handed to feel the gumminess of a mushy cheap trigger, there's zero reason to buy a branded airbrush.

>>50671071
It very well may. I'll probably pick some up next time I resupply. Do any anons have any suggestions of brands? I was just gonna go with Vallejo.

>>50671165
I wouldn't assume too much of my intelligence, anon :p.

>>50671189
I'll give you a rundown of exactly how I did it.-
Primed black
Airbrushed Dryad Bark all over. Airbrushed Death World Forest(DWF) only parallell and from above, leaving the brown as shadows on the underside. All over wash of undiluted Holy Agrax. Thinned down DWF layer, leaving a gap where the shaded parts are so I've got my brown shadows, shaded DWF and then pure DWL, dragging my strokes towards where light would hit. This drags the pigment up further to give a small gradient. Then I mix in a little bit of Straken Green and do the same, but leaving some of the DWF. Repeat the last step but making the highlights more and more focused on where light would be hitting. From here I do an edge highlight of Nurgling Green on all the edges that would receive light from above and on sharper edges that don't. Finally, I paint basically just dots of Screaming Skull on the sharpest edges that would receive light.

I should note that I use a wet palette, so all my thinning is done passively and with water. The rust in the armour holes is just Typhus Corrosion and then some Forge World rust pigments with a small dot of Runefang Steel on some edges. This isn't "realistic" having shiny bits on the rust, but it just helps it stand out. I just go with the mindset that the rust is so caked on, it can get knocked off which shows new metal underneath.

I hope this made sense, anon, feel free to ask if you need more info or of I potatoed any explanations.

>>50671938
>>50672012
Seems like a good deal, now I'm just worried about the ventilation and humidity of the greenhouse I was going to use to airbrush in. You really can't airbrush in 40 degree weather, right?

Packing my secret santa box now. What would you give to someone if you didn't have any sprues to spare?

>>50672289
I airbrush at my desk, put some paper down with a box to spray into. If your doing smaller projects, you'll probably only be spraying for short periods of time. If you cover your desk up the worst that can happen is you'll get some dust around. I wouldn't spray enamels indoors, but most acrylic paint will be just fine, get you a little particle mask if it freaks you out.

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i wish i knew what determined how my camera chooses resolution for photos

>>50672455
nuln oil

>>50672455
Dice, candy, dragon dildos, you know normal stuff.

>>50670119
Nice! I love the necron models, but they sure can be a bore to paint sometimes.

>>50672499
I missed Bad Dragon's cyber monday sale. What a shame.

>>50672499

I really, really want someone to get a dragon dildo now

>>50670986
I'd darken it a bit

>>50672520
i'm sure it's already happened, people are just too embarrassed to post the pictures.

>>50672581

Why the fuck would they be embarrassed, it's not like they CHOSE to receive a dragon dildo.

>>50672581
>well it'd be rude of me not to use this

>>50672499
>>50672520
>>50672581
>>50672599
>live at home
>suddenly worried that i'm going to recieve a dragon dildo
i sure fucking hope not

>>50672630
If you do get one just claim it's a Tyranid capillary tower or something. Problem solved.

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I decided to try out some heavy battle damage, and to do it before I do washes or anything, so I can get that oily corrosion effect once I drop nuln/agrax in all the cuts in the armour.

The mk4 marines on the right are what they'll look like (these ones got no battle damage).

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>>50672788
blessed be, brother. good work.

People keep posting 30k stuff and it's making me really tempted to get some stuff to paint but my backlog is massive already.
Being a slow painter is suffering.

>>50672859

I've never had more passion for painting than when I stopped playing tabletop miniature games that require big armies.

>>50672474
Did you get the whole Prospero box, or just the Custodes? I just grabbed the Ahriman from that set on ebay and I can't decide whether to assemble him completely before painting or paint the major bits separately since there's so much parts overlap.

>>50672618
>is this PVA glue?
>Oh, it's cum-lube
>...
>that was thoughtful

>>50672648

Now I want to see someone get a dragon dildo and incorporate it into his nid army

>>50672948
i got the whole box to split with a mate. the custodes are the first thing i've started on. i wish i'd sub-assembly painted them though.

>>50672859
>be slow painter
>finally get motivation to get shit done, and quickly this time too
>weather and other shit prevents you from actually starting

What the fuck, universe.

Finally about to order some wulfen heads for my 13th company.

>>50672508
It's both a blessing and a curse, they might be boring but on the plus side they can be painted fast. Also I can't believe I forgot that I ordered a Triarch Stalker and a C'tan shard of the deceiver. You wouldn't happen to know how to paint one, would you?

>>50673330
not that anon but
assuming you're going for the stock scheme
prime black
basecoat caliban green
drybrush, focusing on edges, warpstone glow, twice
at this point, if you feel like its too bright, wash all over with the current GW green wash, or nuln oil
very light drybrush on the edges with one more layer of warpstone glow just to make it stand out from the washed parts
final drybrush on moot green only on the edges and corners
its piss easy to do, but boring

>>50673019
Ask DLFG sometime, she knows a thing or two about capillary towers.

>>50673450
>DLFG
which dirty namefag is that, exactly

>>50673371
I should have been specific, I meant the deceiver shard ;_;
Kill me, brother.

>>50673464

Dick Leaper's Fag Gorgon

>>50673464
Deathleaper's Fangirl

newfag

What's a good kit to get for 28mm/heroic female conversion fodder besides Witch (A)Elves?

I'm not to worried about head or hair sculpts, mostly care about body proportions.

>>50673476
ah, the deciever should be pretty easy
prime black
basecoat retributor armour
layer auric armour gold
wash all over with seraphim sepia, making sure it doesnt pool on any flattish surface, making sure it builds up in the abs and muscle striations. if you want hella contrast, thin down druuchi violet a fuck ton, with acrylic medium, and paint it into the deepest recesses, it doesn appear purple, but it gives super deep and clean contrast against bright gold.
go back over with auric armour till its shiny
this step is optional, but i sometimes like to mix lamenters yellow glaze with seraphim sepia and use it over the flatter and uppermost areas.
final highlights with some bright silver if you want, but this isnt totally necessary
>>50673520
>>50673478
i havent seen them shit up a thread in a while, forgive me for not knowing each and every namefag out theree

>just finished a unit
>will never ever post to /wip/ because my preferred style is rough, I suck at picking out details, and my camera work would get me laughed off faster than anything
You guys keep up the good work though. I guess I'm going to start a land speeder and a mount next.

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>>50673675
nah fuck that I post my shit even tho its garbage and the lighting sucks and everything in general is just sub par. Gotta get better somehow right? I've posted this before but some dude on here helped make him look a lot better than when I first posted him. the tips ppl give here are pretty good, despite half of them being super cunts about giving them.

>>50673675
Agree.
Whenever I look at the latest white dwarf and I see a painting showcase or a table full of miniatures that are in a war with eachother all I see is neat, vibrant colours, the armor is all perfect and you can't see a scratch or a proof that these marines or creatures haven't been into combat at all so far. It's like that comparison about the knight in shiny armor that hasn't seen combat in his life but he is called a knight.
Rough is the best, you tell a story for each scratch on the armor, for each scar on his face. He had a reason there's mud on his knees and hands, maybe that day, he had to crawl through the trenches so low because his men died one by one in this conquest.

>>50673773
>despite half of them being super cunts about giving them
thats the best kind of advice though, it forces you to git gud quickly

>>50673805
And me I just like drybrushing things to make everything look worn. Maybe I got into the wrong army though, if my talents are better for fur and skeletons than armor and faces.

>>50673819
nah good advice is just good advice period, you don't have to be a miserable cunt about it.

>>50673675
If I'm brave enough to post the stuff I paint with my fucking Michael J. Fox hands and ancient camera phone then you can too.

>>50673859
nah, its gotta come with a shock or it doesnt really sink in
its how i stopped sucking at painting

>>50673773
For starters, your base.
You'll generally want to keep the sides free of decoration in order to ensure it doesn't take up unwarranted space on the field, and it just looks better. So clean sides, painted [solid color] when done.
As for the terrain, it looks like you've got all unpainted medium grain sand. It kind of looks like tan gravel in scale, but also kind of looks like kitty litter out of scale. Use a mix of fine and medium to get a more natural bare rock/dirt mix, prime and paint them, keeping dark colors underneath for contrast and drybrushing progressively lighter colors for the earth tone on top. This gives you a cleaner and more consistent surface and defined and customized terrain.

>>50673926
Some people learn differently. Some people only learn when there's a crisis, a shock, something that turns them off-balance. Other learn through logic, they need to know why, how and with what.
Just because you learned something one way, doesn't mean everybody needs to learn that way.

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First miniature I have painted in full for a loooooong time.

Decided to go for a Traitor Guard scheme, tried my hand at glazing and made the tank look bronze instead of weathered. Tried to make the red stripe look rough and done by hand. As well as add my own scratches, graffiti and destroyed the emblems.

Was a lot of fun and learned a lot in the process. Any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated. I am thinking of trying it on a Leman Russ next.

>>50673934
oh, I never even thought to do anything with the terrain. I learned the hard way that basing the model the entire way around is a bad idea. Ill try mixing the base with another lighter sand I got recently. thanks for the advice.

>>50673926
>>50673984
it doesn't bother me but it also doesn't make me try any harder so I don't see the point in it. but free advice is free so can't complain

>>50674013
that came out really nice. off the top of my head i cant think of any immediate ways to improve it, but i'm sure someone else will.

>>50674013
I think your treads are a little too clean for such a grimy tank. You might want to add some dirt to those.
Other than that the only thing I can say is that the weathering is hard to see unless you zoom in. Not sure how to fix that aside from throwing more weathering on top of it.

>>50674051
Thanks, there are a lot of things I would do differently next time around, but they are just slightly different techniques.
>>50674130
As soon as you mentioned the clean treads I can't unsee and now they stick out like a sore thumb. Definitely will grime those up!

>>50673859
>good advice is just good advice period

Exactly, so stop complaining about the way it's given.

>>50673605
Thanks for the tips friend, I appreciate them greatly. I wish I could give you a gift in return for the help.

So I got a half dozen army painter warpaints today, and they seem way too thin to me. I've given all the bottles an extremely solid shake but I still can't seem to achieve a consistency any better than a wash in most of them. Anyone else had this problem or know what's happening? I don't think it's intentional since the black paint has a more normal consistency for an acrylic.

I don't know what it is but since I issued a painting challenge to a friend I've done more hobby in 3 days than I have in a month prior. I got my Ethereal done and I'm halfway through my Riptide.

Anyone else done the same?

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>>50674301
yeah, i was the same when i entered this guy to a flgs competition.

we should organise a /wip/ paint-off

>>50674297

AP paint is either very thin or very thick. That's just how it is. My black is watery while my grey is like a cream.

>>50674338
Yeah it could work. Post photo's of the bare models at X date, organize a completion time and then first one to get all the models in wins.

>>50674338
how was this competition? any luck for you?

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>>50674477
nah, lost out to a couple of knights

>>50674503
Should have been disqualified for lack of church on base.
Terrible judges.

>>50674338
I like your paint job, but that model is ugly as fuck.

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>>50674650
yeah, i didnt realise until after i started it that the model didnt really have any focal points and was impossible to angle for a good photo. i should have entered this guy, whom i have almost finished.

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After years of missing out on the hobby, I just sold one of my kidneys to buy some DKOKs on ebay. I used to collect and paint LotR miniatures plz no bully but I had stopped for my studies. I now realize how I missed this

So excited to come back, and hope you will help me /wip/ !

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still a lot of work on big one (wings especially) but small ones miss only eyes and bases to be done

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and my last heroes for SDE, after so many months it's almost over!

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Struggling to get a decent angle to take a photo

>>50675064
noice green eyes, cheers anon!

do you use duncus method with gold spray and filling rest of areas with blue?

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>>50675075

Thanks! And i did just that! Very helpful desu

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So I may have gone on a pre-xmas shopping binge and bought 40 dryads and the start collecting Sylvaneth box. Now I'm building them and I realized that I haven't thought of a colour scheme.
I think something like the weirwood heart trees would be something different and interesting. Any suggestions on how to achieve the look? I'm new to painting and I'm also red green colour blind so I'm in for a wild ride.
Help me Obi-wan Kenobi, you're my only hope!

>>50675112
use shades of grey (colours, not book), lots of drybrushing, and blood for the blood god to paint leafs and blood strains on bark

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Testing death guard conversions

>>50670559
That's what brush on primer is for. It's not perfect, but it works.

>>50674981

The monsters in SDE are so cute but I'm just not a fan of chibi style adventurers.

nice work though.

>>50675075

Those lenses the double white dot, fucking how? It's smaller than the point on a pin, how????

>>50675220
>>50675075

Sorry meant for

>>50675064

>>50671352
Show us the minis

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First time highlighting black fabric, I had no idea what I was doing but didn't want to go OTT. How does it look?

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>>50671352
>roman bear cavalry
>metal helicopter

>>50674980
>LotR
>Bully

Why would we? It's one of the best game GW and Matt Ward did.

>>50670559
some of those aren't actually aussies

they're just brits that sound like aussies from spending too much time around the aussies that work there every year

>>50675154
So just layer up until I hit off-white then slap red on everything else?

>>50675267

It looks like black leather right now. Next time you might need to do more wider grey highlights then darken them with wash, or use grey for the cloak then wash it down to black so your highlights stand out more. Right now it's just pure black and then some grey highlights. This works for power armor but not for cloaks, unless you're going for that shiny leather look.

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>>50675303
I was not a big player at the time, and more of a painter/collector, and other people I knew tended to consider it was subpar to the likes of 40k or WH. Granted I used to live in a pretty lost shithole

By the way, would you happen to know any good online tutorial or paints list for heavy DKOK equipments ? Lascannon and heavy bolter ? The only detailed paintjobs for those I found are painted in an ugly ass green, I'd like something more akin to pic related. Should I just check for general IG tutorials ?

>>50675403
Are you thinking of doing that colour scheme for the soldiers? Don't you fucking dare, that's my colour scheme

>>50675416
>that's my colour scheme

You mean it's WWI french army colour scheme ? And yes I already have my paints list for when I go to the nearest GW

Sorry

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>>50675403
Here's a tutorial from Imperial Armour Masterclass can find it here if you want http://wh40klib.ru/codex/Imperial_Armour_Books/

>>50675449
Ah great, thank you anon

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>>50675416
Sorry anon, it's also mine...

>>50675536
Fucking iPhones. How do I stop it rotating the pictures?

>>50675394
Thanks for the critique anon. I guess I can live with it looking like leather!

>>50675537

Yeah it actually looks pretty cool, but I know you were probably aiming for the blended cloth look. Hey, at least now you can play Final Fantasy edge Custodes

>>50671797
how the hell did you get that metal-red?

>>50675167
it's a good start, but you've fallen into a trap that many people do when greenstuffing nurgle - just adding random "gross things". Even if you paint it good, a blob of nonsense will never not look like a blob of nonsense. You have used very little of it though, which is great! Other people fucking drown their nurgle minis in greenstuff and it never looks good.

make you have a disease/symptom in mind when you start sculpting, and use that as the inspiration.

>>50675537
You open it in a photo editing app and save it the right way up.

Don't trust it without doing that, because your phone has access to metadata about which way up it should be that 4chan completely ignores.

>>50675438

>WW1 french army colour scheme

Needs redder trousers.

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>>50675755
For early uniforms but later in the war they stopped having red trousers

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>>50675536
did someone say krieg

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Sorry about the sideways pic but I need some advice on skin. I've never been been good at and want to improve can some of you guys give me C&C on my manhunter?

I have another unpainted in case I fuck up

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I'm making babies

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>>50676105

Cool

>>50676118
I never even browse WIP threads but this got me spitting the water i was drinking

>>50676105
Looks awesome. What will you do with them?

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What are your most common mistakes? Im too impatient and usually dont wait enough time for the washes to dry, and also sometimes i dont clean my brushes well and contaminate my paints. And obviously im miss a lot of mold lines. Another mistake that im trying to fix is leaving the gaps betwenn parts, when i have the tools to cover them. I guess everthing could be labered down as laziness.

>>50675778

Yeah, but where's the fun in that.

>>50676105
...are those for 28mm? Cause I'm pretty sure those are ping pong ball bodies. That makes babies @ 12-15' tall in scale.

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I want to add some missile pods between the main ailerons on the ARC-X1 here. Any suggestions for something that would fit in there?

>>50675267
Fuck, black and gold are top colors. Really like what you did anon.

>>50676187
>usually dont wait enough time for the washes to dry
Just rotate your miniatures so you have another one to do while it's drying

>>50676159
going to use them to turn blight drones into more of a ww1 observation/dirigible balloon.

>>50675267
That's bretty cool anon

>>50676199
Yup, ping pong balls, see>>50676217

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>>50676202
Im a 40k painter so the only thing that comes to my mind are the old missile launchers from the 3rd edition tau crisis suit.

>>50672520
Fucking please, have you SEEN how expensive they are?

Did I just say that out loud?

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>>50676236

I'm not against using weird things. The chassis I used on that ship is from a tumbler batmobile I hacked up. The Y-wing on the left took its gun off of an old micromachine tank.

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>>50676217
Damn, forgot pic

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>>50675879
Meaby a very thinned highlight on the top of the muscles reflecting a top down light? Is my way to go with flesh.

>>50673819
Critique delivered cuntishly is still a million times better than your stuff going ignored while the thread fills with random shitposts.

>>50676255

So you're making hovering giant baby blight drones where the gun is their dick?

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>>50675652

>>50676293
For me, /wip/ ignoring my models means that my level is average, nothing too good, nothing too bad. First you get the harsh critics, then you get the silence and last you get the praises. im waiting for the praises now

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>>50676325

>>50676313
Not quite their dick, basically just a normal blight drone that doesnt have the propeller turbines for flight.

>>50675879
Use a purple wash to carefully shade the deepest recesses. This can be fiddly but purple is perfect for shading flesh.

>>50676344
Seems reasonable. I mean what else would you use if you didn't have turbines, but giant, floating babies?

>>50676328
The sound of silence is always harsh but at least I know I'm on the right track.

>>50676328
There is always suggestions to improve a 'meh'-tier painting if you can only be arsed to think about it for a bit.
This is one of the few threads I still come to /tg/ for but even here the shitposting sometimes becomes overpowering.

>>50676328
I always took it as average painters are quick to offer advice to the lower quality minis but aren't confident enough to give advice to other average painters.

>>50676370
Babies are the laziest, most filth-wallowing form of human, i guess i get his reasoning. They just lay around shitting themselves and getting sick, its perfect, really.

>>50676747
Well, its mostly to link them to the blight drones as infants and because baby cries are spoopy.
Also because a stitched skin balloon wouldn't be particularly original.

>>50676700
I think there is a lot of this, people are quick to praise the really good posters, quick to jump on easy cases of 'THIN' and 'watch Duncan', but people roughly as good as you are harder.

I now have to work out what I'm doing as rain has prevented me from priming what I wanted to work on.

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transfers and freehand if I feel up to it still to do.

>>50673589
Bumping this question.

>>50678383
Can you put this sand on the base after you're done completing the miniature ? I want to paint mine and maybe embellish the base later if I can.

>>50676187

Getting impatient and rushing edge highlights

Fucking up primer by holding it too far (dusty finish) or too close (gummy finish)

Forgetting to do a second thin layer and moving to the next colour too soon

Putting the wash on delicate areas too thickly

Letting paint get into my ferrule by holding the brush at an angle while painting

Skipping edge highlights on metallics, declaring the figure finished, then noticing it and being too lazy to go back in and actually finish it

>>50678383
Looks nice for TT, but clean up where the wash has dripped on the edge of your bases.

>>50678463
You can do but I tend to do bases separately.

>>50678506
Aight thanks

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I really wanna paint some Imperial Fists, what are some easy tutorials if you have some anons?

>>50678745
Borb.

>>50678745
Lookit dis happy lil squawker getting his groove on.

Yes I know it's doing that to prepare to vom up some fresh food for chicks, but it still looks silly

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Before I leap in, I'm not making a terrible mistake if I kitbash this guy am I? I want to replace his powerfist with a sword and alter the scabbard so it's an empty one.

>>50678745
>paint abaddon black
>paint two thin layers of averland sunset
>thin layer of yriel yellow
>Fuegan orange, then nuln oil the recesses carefully
>paint the rims black
>eyes red or whatever they are supposed to be

this can also be found very easily if you bothered to check Warhammer TV first, but I hope it'll get you started anon.

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>>50678878
Thank you
also

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>>50678745
>>50678802
Alright. Sorry for the test post. I'm on mobile so sometimes the random IP I'm assigned is banned.

I'm doing a blend of stuff happily stolen from a couple tutorials across the Internet for the yellow:

Prime with AP Daemonic Yellow, basecoat with 3-4 extremely thin layers of Yriel Yellow (I use 1:1 Vallejo Thinner Medium plus the moisture from my wet palette), wash with thinned Sepia (I use 2:1 Vallejo Sepia Wash to Thinner Medium), highlight with White Scar, glaze with Lamentors Yellow, rehighlight highest areas with White Scar, glaze with Lamentors Yellow again. Make sure to wait patiently for each yellow layer, wash and glaze to dry. Disturbing a layer that's not dry is guaranteed to make it look like ass.

Let me know if you care about the other colours. Typing on my phone is annoying.

>>50678937
I like your marble, although it looks kinda weird with the diamondplate.

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Used furniture marker of all things to get some weathering on this ARC-170. Anyone know where one would go about getting something similar to a furniture marker in different colors?

>>50676293

But I see plenty of stuff posted with just a picture saying "here my stuff" and in sone cases people have said >nice but... And then the original poster says "don't want your feedback" or somesuch

>>50678383

This guy for example is he wanting feedback? He hasn't said either way. If you want feedback state it explicitly otherwise people might just glance past your stuff.

>>50678878

>priming black

There's the first mistake.

>two thin layers

In your dreams. Yellow will need more like fifty layers to go smoothly on top of black.

>nuln oil

Looks muddy and green on top of yellow.

I don't care if this is the official recipe (and I don't think it is), it's a bad way of going about painting yellow. >>50678937 is much better.

>>50679020

Personally i'd use thinned oil if i was you

>>50679196

Oil paints...

>>50679014
I'm definitely forcing the marble onto that flat area of the steps. I haven't based the majority of my dudes yet. While I have a large set of Sector Imperialis bases in my heart of hearts I want to base them all on marble plates, shards, steps and pillars.

>>50679196

Actual oil?

>>50679156
The simple fact is if you want a hugbox go to fb or dakka or whatever. /wip/ is here to provide critique and criticism, so you shouldn't be posting in it if you don't want it. Obviously that doesn't mean you should be a cunt, but you should be able to take it on the chin and see it for what it is.

>>50679190
you don't need to prime white or grey, black is perfectly fine.

you don't slather it in multiple thick layers, you do one thin at a time. works fine for me.

>>50679271

Oil paints, usually used on canvas

>>50679190
Averland Sunset is a high pigment density paint though, it should cover really well, especially for a yellow. It has a little dull finish as a result, but that's what that coat of Yriel is for afterwards.

However I agree that the other described method is superior, as it results in far more definition in your yellow, but Anons described method should work.

>>50679020
There's some branded weathering markers for gundams if you really must have something in pen form. What colors specifically are you looking for? I hadn't thought of wood stain markers, that's not a bad idea.

Question for the thread: When doing colored metals without an airbrush, which do you prefer?
>Mixing the color into a metallic paint
>Adding metallic medium to a color

Both have their merits, but I'm just wondering where /wip/ tends to fall in this aspect.

>>50679524
I use NMM.

>>50679156
I just like sharing what I'm working on every now and then. If I want advice on something specific I'll ask but people otherwise free to say whatever they want. Or not. Obviously.

>>50679524
I tried mixing in Vallejo's metallic medium into some blue-green paint in order to find a way to do Alpha Legion without an airbrush and it just wasn't as iridescent as I expected. There's no way that technique will get you the cool Forge World Alpha Legion or Thousand Sons colours.

I'm going to try glazes (I have both the Citadel and Vallejo ones) over some Leadbelcher next week when I'm on vacation and see if that works better.

There are also those artificer tints coming out eventually but it seems they only come in the whole set so I might just eBay the one or two colours I need.

>>50679586
>I'm going to try glazes (I have both the Citadel and Vallejo ones) over some Leadbelcher
This is the correct answer for colored true metallics.

>>50679524
I use Minitaire ghost tint paints. They're perfectly usable even without an airbrush.

>>50668688
There's quite a few models I want to spray primer on, but it's 15F outside. I'm not really sure where I can do it. Any advice?

>>50679632
If you have a garage you could put your cars outside, set up a room heater if your garage gets cold, and the spray paint into a cardboard box to avoid a mess. Afterwards open up the garage for a bit to let the fumes out. Be sure to wear a respirator like always when spray painting.

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>>50679390
I'd probably want a full gamut of color. I've got 7 different shades of brown, which is ideal for that aged, lived in look and works great for deepening reds like I did with this. I'd want other colors for emblems and stripes and such.

>>50679313
Gotcha, I'll give that a try.

>>50675879

Hey Kingdom Death! I'm looking forward to my copy arriving and I may have ordered some recasts of the OOP limited edition stuff to paint before then

I've never been great at flesh, but here are the two techniques I use. My old one was basecoat -> wash with reikland flesh shade -> then start highlighting with a mix of 60:30 basecoat:highlight and proceed from there.

Recently though I've been experimenting with making skin tones using this tutorial as my rough guide http://serpentarium-painting.blogspot.com/2012/08/a-sample-of-woman-skin-tutorial.html and it's been working out pretty well. I'm the Yuan-Ti anon from back at the top of the thread.

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When your secret Santa gift comes and it's awesome, and you immediately feel like shit because you sent some poor guy crap, will post later, I need to go for a long run to sweat out my shame

>>50680064
Post it NOW"!!!!!

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>TFW you're still feverishly waiting for you Secret Santa.

I am so bad at waiting man.

>>50679310

>black is perfectly fine

But retarded nonetheless when it's just as simple to prime in white or grey, and it will be easier to get a smoother and more vibrant yellow.

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>>50680329
kek, posted the wrong GIF

>>50680064
As long as the core of the gift is within the declared target or above ($10-15 value)n feel no shame. If you actually did send some poor schmuck a box of sprue trimmings, throw yourself off a bridge while you're out, you colossal waste of oxygen.

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going for this armor color for my orcs.
as long it isn't bright as the sun yellow works good

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Oh hey a package! Wonder who it's from.

Hey guys, i have a question:

If i apply some Bluetac to a bond between 2 parts and then glue these two together with superglue.. will the Bluetac help? Or will it weaken the bond?

>>50681172
I really thought it was scrapped metal for a second. Well done anon

>>50681180
DHL is german

>>50681206
I never tried it, but I guess that if the glue can hold the parts enough so the bluetac mainly hides the imperfection it should work

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>>50681180
Thank you, Anon from Germany!

I think I'm gonna make a small diorama out of this over Christmas.

>>50681206
That is a horrible idea.

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Can anyone recommend a decent cheap manual drill (not a pin vice) for big diameter holes e.g 2cm and up.

Alternatively, is there a method I don't know of to make a hole like that in a resin model without a drill / dremel? Unfortunately I live in student accomodation so I can't go borrow my dads tools.

>I want to magnetize some titan arms and waist, like pic related

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>>50681206

Don't do this

>>50681206
If you get superglue on the bluetac you will have manky bluetac on your mini.

>>50681206
It does not hold.

Don't do it.

Trust me.

>>50681242
>>50681253

W-why? It makes holding the pieces together in place way easier.

>>50681206
why not just
use superglue
and not use bluetac at all

>>50681271
see >>50681268


But apparently its a bad idea anyway.

Thanks guys. I'll try the regular way.

>>50681286
if you wanna rotate the mini or something, use magnets. if you wanna see how it looks before assembly, skip the superglue and just use bluetac.

>>50681206
>>50681225
>>50681242
>That is a horrible idea.

This, don't do that. It won't help and will probably create an awful sticky crusty mess. Blue tack tends to deteriorate over time from the consistency of stiff putty to the consistency of lightly-chewed bubblegum, so even if it did work, it still wouldn't work.

You can do greenstuff to reinforce a weak joint but if you're really worried about reinforcing a joint then pinning is the best idea, and save greenstuff for gap-filling.

>>50681268

there's really no way around fiddly component-gluing unfortunately, you just have to learn how the glue you're using works, and work with it. Some glues take a longer time to dry, so you can sort of let the component "swim" while you position it, others stick almost instantly so you need to blutack it, get it just right, then rip it off and clean off all the tack and position it without touching the two parts so the glue doesn't instantly set until you get it right.

For many types of superglue or plastic glue, very slightly increasing or decreasing the amount you use (never going so little that it doesn't stick properly or so much that it spills everywhere) can also increase or decrease the setting time.

>>50681372
>>50681314
Thanks. I'll try without and maybe add some greenstuff later if there still is a gap.

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North Mankato anon here, got my SS package today. Will post pics when I have the time later today. Thanks anon!

>>50681472
....

3rd Anon today who announces that he got something but didn't post pics. I'm dying from curiosity.

>>50680346
again, personal preference.
no need to get your knickers twisted up, friend.

>>50681498
Has Singapore anon got his yet?

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WIP Iron warrior armour.

>>50681249
something like this?

https://www.amazon.de/Draper-13838-Doppel-Ritzel-Handbohrer-Bohrfutter/dp/B0001K9PFK/ref=sr_1_8?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1481662135&sr=1-8


I would assume your local hardware store has you covered

>>50681241
I see mantic undead and what is the other stuff?

>>50681241
Oh shit, mantic zombies!
I converted mine into arco flagellants / servitors when they gave a load away 6 years ago.

>>50681286

If you really want to do something like that, use a little greenstuff.

>>50669725
My only suggestion is too late: darker color under the agrellan earth. Mournefang or something.

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>>50681172
>as long it isn't bright as the sun yellow works good
funny

>>50681180
>>50681241
Oh hey thats from me! Hope you like it! Gruezi

Any ever try to do blood effects on models using real blood? It would probably be hygienic if you seal it properly. Am I a freak for thinking about this?

>>50682905

Dried blood doesn't look very good but I have heard in the past people adding blood to their red paints for World Eaters etc

>>50679156
Well, posting and then straight up declining critique is also bullshit and those guys can get fucked just like the shitposters.
IMO if you post, asking for critique is implied and if that doesn't suit you then go somewhere else where you get praised even if it is shit on a mini.

>>50682905
No. you're not the first. No. it doesn't look good.
It's just gonna dry brown.
Which is probably not what you are going for anyway.

Some red, black and brown inks are gonna work better. Tamiya clear is a classic too.

>>50682905
Did that when I was a teenager. It dried brown and looked like shit. The mini was Vlad von Carstein of course.

>>50682905
Note, human blood rapidly oxidises when exposed to air. It'll dry a deep red brown, rather than stay red. So it wouldn't work.

>>50682905
it's about as clever as the dude who put sperm in his paint.

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>mfw I haven't painted in about a decade
>mfw browsing /wip/ has reignited some old want/need to paint again
>mfw learning curve.. again

Any advice for assembling necrons warriors? This is my first time assembling citadel minis, and I put the Gauss part in before priming because I don't know how to read. Is wrapping it in a little tiny bit of newspaper fine? I don't spay on primer cause it's cold out.

>>50683278

you could use tack / blu tack / masking tape / masking fluid

>>50683278
Cover it with something that A) can handle the paint B) won't leave residue when you take it off.

>>50683278
You could always roll with it and just paint the gauss rods, they won't be transparent but gauss rods painted blue or red or something might fit better with your colour scheme than green rods.

>>50678874

You are because his powerfist is molded into his leg and cape.

You can only replace the storm bolter without any repercusions.

>>50683469
I am doing the Nihilakh dynasty, so that might not work. Good thought though.

>>50681172
You're not priming or basing properly. Honestly it's pretty amazing work. But I can see some unintentional chipping. Be careful cause every chip on a paint job that well done hurts.

>>50681241
>Yet another person printed my shitty Santa Duncan

Fuck me I'm famous.

>>50683471
So his fist has a portion for the leg scooped out of it, and there is a section of the cloak that's supposed to accomodate the elbow... I'm going to try a dry fit.

>>50681670
Looks like old metal grave guard, a FW bloodthirster shoulder pad and some random bases. No clue whats in the bag in the lower right, though

I'm disappointed in myself. I ordered a ton of things for Black Friday and I was hoping to get my models done before they arrived. Unsurprisingly, things did not go as planned and now I have an even bigger pile of plastic.

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Alaskanon, your package should be there within the week hopefully.

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Still stuff to do, tidying up, i was also starting to base paint the other two but i got bored and worked on this guys base. Although he's coming along nicely. A set of test models to determine if i collect a Thousand Sons force.

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>>50684242

And the base actually in focus...

>>50684242
looks good. What was the procedure for the gold?

>>50684401

Retributor
Reikland Fleshshade
Liberator layer
Stormhost highlight

I've just noticed my colour warmth is way high on the photo and it's a little less... bronzey IRL

>>50680329
>>50680347
I mean playing DOOM is a way to kill time, too.

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Ohoho. Let's see what's inside...

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>>50684558
...Some vintage White Dwarfs! And something else...

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>>50684570
...a baggie with some Rogue Trader bionik boyz! Ventura anon, you're the best. Merry Christmas!

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For a goldenrod yellow, will I be better shading with black or fleshtone?

>>50684601
Sepia.

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Here are my Scourges where I left off last night. Just some armor touchups, weapons, and bases left to do.

What android apps do people use to resize photos? I'm good for collages, but none of the apps I have already do resizing (at least, not obviously).

>>50684850
>>50684850

Very nice, assume you're going to highlight that bronze? In addition the symbol on their wings looks a bit out of place you may want to lighten or darken them as it looks very flat. Otherwise i like the tron style

>>50684601

Fleshtone/ sepia is fine, just dont let it pool across the very flat surface as it look patchy. Wash the entire surface not letting it pool, let it dry completely and then wash it a second time

>>50675112
Definitely seen about 20 sylvaneth armies with this scheme already as its sort of a no-brainer. If you were a little more subtle and worked in greys and brown tones along with the cream/bone it could probably come off looking better than the lazier stabs at this idea I've seen (usually relying heavily on Blood for the Blood God)

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>have the broodlord from space hulk
>it's too sexy to attempt to paint.

Pic related is my current level

Does anyone else have this feel?

>>50675879
As another anon suggested, go redder/purpler in the deepest recesses, and you also need a highlight or two. Try a cream or bone shade

>>50684601

Use GW or AP yellow wash.

>>50685081
Only way to get better is to keep painting.

>>50684850
Lovely.

>>50684850
Damn son, those wings are nice.

>>50684595
Princely! Don't see the guy on the right up for sale too often

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Posted in last thread, small update.

Relatively new painter who's afraid to waste expensive paints, currently using Apple Barrel 50 cent acrylics from Walmart to paint Lost Patrol.
I failed to mention in my last post that I AM using Agrax and Nuln Oil.

Just finished scooter number 2.

>>50685081

I have those feels. It's even worse though because I need my HQ to play with but I don't want to paint him yet cause I know I'm gonna be a lot better after painting 10 terminators first.

>>50684850
awesome feathers, but those freehands on the bat wings look a little derpy

>>50685191
>afraid to waste expensive paints

That's stupid, since even one small bottle or pot of miniature paint will last a long time. But that job is really good for shitty Apple Barrel paints. You probably would do a much better job or at least have a much easier time painting if you just used the proper paints though.

>>50685191
Uff, get off those Apple Barrel paints - they're the worst of the worst, no batch consistency. If you want some good cheap paint, I've had some success with Delta Ceramcote.

>>50685191
You're doing good. If you decide to stick with painting better quality paints are definetly not wasted on your skill.

>>50685259
>>50685211
I have a bad habit of spending a lot of money on a hobby, just to drop it after one or two projects. I have a shed full of woodworking equipment gathering dust. This is guess is just to see if miniature painting is something that'll hold my interest before I go spending hundreds of dollars on paint.

>>50684972

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.simplemobilephotoresizer

>>50685081
Can relate. I have more models than I know what to do with (was big into 40k in the mid 90's), but my skill level doesn't do them justice. Thank God for paint stripping.

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>>50684570
OK, this is off topic, but I think it deserves to be asked. Leafing through 124... did the Blood Angels have a different primarch at some point, or did GW cheese their own contest?

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>>50684570

>>50685455
Into the folder it goes.

>>50685341

That's reasonable. Just know that I enjoy painting much more now that I'm better at it and I'm using the best quality brushes, paints, and actual thinners. When I was using crappy brushes and water to thin and painting like shit (still using those expensive paints back then though) it was much less enjoyable.

>>50685484
Well, I am getting better, and even though it's obvious I'm using shitty materials, I'm very proud of them. I think I'm going to pick up a few colors from Vallejo when I get my next box. You guys are very encouraging, and I'm having a blast with these guys.

>>50675154
Ah. All my local players just have dirt coloured trees. Not particularly imaginative.

>>50685207
Thanks. I definitely need to touch up the batwing freehands. I was in a "I need to paint, but don't want to" mood when I did them.

Twickenham Anon, your secret Santa gift should be with you by the end of the week hopefully

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Thread is dying but have some cataphractii that I just needed to get painted, so not massively high effort, posing with my libby.

Painting beginner here, I hooe you can enlighten me.

Why do you use washes/shades over the entire model?

When I do it it dries obviously also on flat surfaces which you have to paint in the basecoat colour again.

Wouldn't it make more sense to only use it on the obvious areas?

Also, how do you highlight correctly? I always have the impression to be hit or miss when I do it.

>>50686364
Nice, I like the light pteruges contrast with the armour.

The highlights are a little inconsistent though. Like the near (to the camera) corners of the librarian's right shoulder pad are really bright really suddenly, you should blend your way up to that from the lighter blue highlights used elsewhere on the model.

The Cataphractii shoulder pad trims could use a highlight of silver to make them pop a bit more. Also there's a few places where the white (or whatever that colour is) slipped into the washed area between the strips of cloth/leather.

>>50686419
>Why do you use washes/shades over the entire model?

So it gets into every crack and crevice to bring definition to the whole model.

>When I do it it dries obviously also on flat surfaces which you have to paint in the basecoat colour again.

You might be using too much of the wash on your brush, you don't want to be slathering even the flat areas usually. You just want the wash to stick to the cracks and crevices.

>Wouldn't it make more sense to only use it on the obvious areas?

Sure but that's a technical and stylistic choice. These days I use it very sparingly to tough up areas I messed up or lack the skill to truly make distinct.

>Also, how do you highlight correctly? I always have the impression to be hit or miss when I do it.

You want to highlight onto raised parts of the model (such as the peaks in a rippling cloth), and usually the edge of stuff like armor plates and icons and stuff. If you want to learn more, you should start 1) studying well painted minis and working to understand how and why they placed highlights where they did, and 2) reading up on light theory with regards to fine art.

>>50686419
I hooe I can help.

>Why do you use washes/shades over the entire model? etc.

I don't always. Sometimes I do where it makes sense to, because repainting the basecoat is less time-consuming than trying to paint into the recesses and then fix where it goes too far.

Sometimes I paint it just into the recesses on the area that needs shading. It really depends on what you're doing.

>Also, how do you highlight correctly? I always have the impression to be hit or miss when I do it.

Your highlights are doing two things- they're making it look like light is hitting the model from above, which adds to realism, and they're pushing contrast to add visual interest and delineate parts of the model.

Like all art, you need to look at references (real world objects and painted minis) to get a feel for where to highlight and how much.

If you're struggling while painting, put the mini under a bright light source and see where the light catches, then highlight those areas.

>>50686461
Thanks for the critique on both. Edge highlighting is something I'm learning kinda late because I tried to avoid it initially, so I have a few models to practice is on lined up.

The silver is part of my usual gold recipe that I skipped on the cataphractii in an attempt to speed them up, but I'm now thinking a 'fast gold' might be better with the gloss reikland to save time relayering and then I can add that back in.

>>50686461
As a side note, I've enjoyed having pteruges as a regular part of my vocabulary while painting them.

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>>50686744
>As a side note, I've enjoyed having pteruges as a regular part of my vocabulary while painting them.

Why stop there? Try attaching an ornamental besagew!

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I need some biohazard/toxic type heads that look kind of like pic related (mildly goofy, not run of the mill gas mask look)

i tried pic related but they're large even by marine head standards

>>50687002
>besagew

Gesundheit ;)

How do i get the cream color for like the classic death guard? Which paints should i use?

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First ten boys for my Ork army are ready for fittin'