/wip/ - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

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>>50545028
New day, new ship.

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Added a touch of red to break up the gold a bit.

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>>50545160
And finished another. Can't decide how to base them though, I want something that will make the gold 'pop'.

Have we only had one secret santa received? Mine is delivered according to the tracking but anon hasn't posted it yet :<

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>>50545192
Sent mine today so royal mail says it'll be 3-4 working days.

>>50545192
I only saw one unboxed so far. Give it some time Anon. Its 5 days only so far and there was a weekend in between.

Mine arrived in Spain today according to the tracking info and probably gets delivered tomorrow.. or the day after if the spanish post is slow.

Advice on stripping models? I don't want to damage the plastic

OP link on stripping doesn't go anywhere

>>50545476
include the '...' it works for me

>>50545476
Dettol is what I use everytime

>>50545491
I only got two of the dots, oops

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Anyone know how to make swappable arms for a dreadnought but without magnets? Also would I'm using a FW dreadnought if that matters

>>50545568
>arms for a dreadnought but without magnets?

you don't.

Get some magnets. they are cheap as dirt.

>>50545590
I could've sworn i saw a pic where you could use tubing. Honestly i have more than enough small magnets for my marines i don't want to deal with more magnets if i could skip it

Any good alternatives for the forge world earthshaker cannons? I'm at work and don't have time to look through the pastebin

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Just got home from another crappy day at work to find this parcel to brighten up my day. I'm just glad people are so nice here like you Beckenham Anon.
Sorry for the bad photo I don't really have anywhere in the house to take a good one.
For those that cannot tell what it is; 10 of the Emperor's Finest (MkIII, the best), some sweeties, some dudes from SPIRAL ARM STUDIOS 2015, a cool visual novel called "Warhammer Online: Prelude to War" and a tea light!
Card will be in next post!

>>50545568
>>50545692
It probably was just using the bits already on the model. If the peg fits the whole for the weapons it can work, but magnets do the job better

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I never even knew the book existed anon, and I played Age of Reckoning back in the day so I'm actually really interested in reading it. It really did cheer me up a great deal when I saw this and I thank you for your generosity :)

I know it's silly but honestly my favourite part has to be the tealight just because I think it's really sweet and a nice touch. Once again I can't thank you enough, I was expected that my address would have been sent to that one guy that doesn't even bother sending anything.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! :)

I'll have to get my ass in gear and get mine sent to you Leeds anon!

>>50546076
>>50546183
Sorry for the big images!

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WIP of my Kastelan. The colour scheme is a little dull, but I really like it!

Have applied the base armour layer, am not working on base metal layer. Then I'll apply nuln oil, do the brass, then highlight. To finish I'm going to make the eyeplate like glossy black glass, and give it a moonscape base

>>50546289
>tfw you think of something to add after you click post

Side note: Applying the base metal after the other paint was a good idea. If I'm a little sloppy the nuln oil will just make it seem like paint that's been scratched off

>>50546076
Woah nice! Shit, now that I see that, shouldve included some sweets or smth

>>50545113
Base yellow, masking paint, spray black, right?
Could you do black-mask-yellow to get Kirby Krackle, or would the yellow not cover black well?

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>>50545568
>Anyone know how to make swappable arms for a dreadnought but without magnets?

You can drill holes in the shoulder plates and run rods through them, then put matching holes on the inside of the arms. The rods should be larger than the usual paperclips we use for pinning around here, and you should use two rods plus the nub on the shoulder to stabilize the aqrm against the body.

Even though my dreadnoughts are metal, I'm using paperclips for rods, and I only have one rod instead of two, I can nonetheless remove and swap arms between them and (more importantly) store them safely for transport to my FLGS.

Hey guys thinking of building an admech/skitarii army but I'm stumped on paint schemes. I think the box art looks good but everyone does that...I eat my guys to standout while still looking cool.
I was thinking green (I love forest colors) but that's not very fluffy.

Any ideas?

>>50546076
>>50546183
Great stuff there :3

Now get going and paint some marines

>>50546467
No, it wouldn't. Would havebto make a white undercoat for that and I'm too lazy for the hazzle.

>>50546644

There is a Forge World with green colors. Don't know the name but it was one of those nobody Forge Worlds. I think one of the famous ones had olive drab and red.

You can find various official Skitarii schemes in one of the books. Their codex maybe? I don't play Skitarii but I've seen people talking about this very subject before when they came out and official green images were posted.

>>50545113
CUTE

>>50545182
Avoid metallics or earth tones and go for high contrast. Meaby snow or ruins. or snowy ruins

>>50546183
>Leeds anon
Exciting!

>>50546076
>>50546183

Ah wonderful, good old Royal Mail, 2nd class delivery all the way up to (where you live) in less than 48 hours.

Glad you like the gifts and that it brightened your day, I puzzled over putting something together that I thought someone would like and I'm genuinely glad that you do, warm + fuzzy feeling and all that.

Have a great Christmas mate :)

>>50545113

Foss! Intentionally or coincidence?

>>50547371
You'll have to post your lightbox so I can keep an eye out for your posts

>>50547536
Coincidence. You're like 4th or 5th making that connection.

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>>50545113

>Coincidence.

Hmmmmm

Bognor Regis anon, I sent yours today first class. Hope you enjoy.

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I felt down so I bought myself some Tzaangors, not sure if Tzaangors are powerful enough to use magic but I figured if it was Tzeentch there might be some who might.

What looks better, the plume or the ball?

>>50549060
Ball looks better.

>>50549060
Anon, anon!

How many heads are there? Any extras?

Also ball is better

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currently working on my imperial knight that was gathering dust for a while now.

>>50549115
You get a whopping 26 beaked faces, 13 variants, but only 12 neck bits in total including the two faces. You get two weapons sprues or both 40k and AoS, so you get two banners and two trumpets aswell as a single two hander on each sprue. You get a far lot in there.

>>50545182
Maybe GW Astrogranite? Just a suggestion, but it's a good effect if you give it a nice glossy wash.

>>50549125
Good luck working on it in that earthquake, anon.

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>>50549266
what are you talking about?

sorry my phone isnt the best anymore

>>50549208
Yes...YES
Bits for the bits Gods!
Thanks, Mine are in the mail and I was curious.
Can I talk you into parting with them or something?

Just got some HH marines and I'm trying to think of the best legion to go for as a paint scheme.

I currently have a Death Guard CSM army and Blood Angels for 40K. I'm looking for something different to contrast with those and get me painting some nice colours.

>>50545787
Look at 1:35 scale models for historical artillery. You have a huge variety of options for probably half the price.

>>50549334
Alpha Legion for me.

>>50549331
Not a chance, plan to make an army of horrible mutants. Maybe pick up a unit of Gors and convert some more.

>>50545787
this: >>50549389

In particular look for US "M59 Long Tom" and Soviet "M1935 (Br-2)".
There is a cheap diecast model of a long tom by "The Ultimate Soldier" that you could get for a couple of bucks in your local toy store if you are lucky.

>>50545160
>>50545182
These are really nicely executed Clean, good coverage, the depth on the gems is nice, that face is straight up phenomenal, and I'm gonna steal the glossy red for some shoulder pads myself. Looks good next to the gold

>>50545787
Kromlech (bitsofwar.com) makes an "Imperial siege mortar" that is shorter barreled than the earthshaker, but is still big n beefy. And Kromlech's quality is top notch.

>>50549663
OOH, I have three of those. Top-notch casting. No complaints.

>>50549437
Fair enough thanks for answering my first question

Send off my secret santa parcel

Hope I get something back this year.

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r8 and h8

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Need advice on how to make my chapter work.

I want to achieve a dark deep purple and need advice on accents.

Since I want to stem away from the Emperor's Children look, I thought I'd use colder metals (silver, etc...) instead of gold

I'd also like to know if you think the aquila would look good in jade green. I'd make it dark with highlights and with "stone" patterns as if it was made of actual jade

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With gold (or any other metallic)

>>50545192
The post lady said it should arrive at destination in sweden on the 8th.

>>50550140
This is basically just Soul Drinkers, keep that in mind.

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>>50550140
>>50550159

WAY too busy. Consider something like this.

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Guess what arrived in the mail today! Pleasantly surprised since I had no idea when these gals would arrive. After I finish my last Ork runtherda I think I will take a break from 40k to work on these pinups!

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>>50550238

That's Soul Drinkers

>>50550217

Hence why I was considering the jade aquila.

I have one test models and the scheme works fine. Sergeants are different also.

>>50550159
this one looks great. I have to disagree with >>50550238. Your paint scheme doesn't look too busy at all. their suggestion looks far to plain for me.

>>50546076
>>50546183

We have some really generous people on this board, the only other one I saw was the guy with the Dark Angel stuff

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>>50550295

No jade aquila?

>>50550331
I personally like the metallic over the jade, the jade is a little much. Just doesn't look right in contrast to the other colors. But that's just me, if you really like it go for it.

>>50546076
>visual novel Warhammer Online: Prelude to War
whoa whoa, Age of Reckoning had a visual novel for it? I really miss that game, shame EA was so incompetent. If another studio had made it, it probably would have done far better.

>>50550445
The collectors edition had a incredible comic, each story done by a different artsit and an amazing art book in it. If you see the collectors about its worth it just for those books. Also theres a model and a mousemat in there too

is december WD out yet?

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I tried a few tests for deciding the blades color for those guys, and I'm not really satisfied either way : do you have any suggestion? The one Duncan used for Alarielle was quite nice, but I miss all of those colors...

>>50550846

Magazines release a month early, Decembers came out in November, Novembers in October etc...

so yes it is.

>>50550972
I like the green, but the nmm effect looks better on the grey blade.
Maybe paint the blade to be green nmm?

Strictly speaking the gradients should look a little different cause the edge of the blade is not straight, but alternating between concave and convex, but it looks good regardless.

>>50545028
I have an idea im trying for my homebrew chaoter. I bought a large base and im going to try to turn it into a larger base that my figures can all go on when not in play, sort or like the primarchs have for the HH models. Thoughts?

>>50551188
Kinda like an "armies on display"-display base?

It's probably listed in an FAQ somewhere, but i may as well ask: What's a good fine detail brush for mini painting? I know citadel stuff is overpriced, so what's recommended for someone still learning?

>>50550713
awesome! I'll have to look it up later. The art and atmosphere was amazing.

>>50551452
Yeah kind of. I want ot make it do the smaller bases actually sink into the larger display base, so sort of doing slots for them so it looks seamless on display.

>>50551680
You could get a couple of skirmish movenment trays for the single squads and then create a larger tray for the squad-trays.

>>50551705
Thanks man! Ill look into it. Will post results once all my materials come in

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Just some more basic tacticals for muh walls

>>50551535

Anything that comes to a sharp point when wet, but is as thick as possible at the base near the handle. Usually only kolinsky sable brushes manage to have these qualities, as cheaper brushes must remove hairs to get a sharp point, thus making their belly reservoirs quite thin.

You can dive right in to a Raphael 8404, Winsor & Newton Series 7, or Da Vinci kolinsky sable brush as they're only $10-13 each and are the best you'll be able to buy. If you're worried about breaking the brush because you're the Hulk or something, get a Rosemary & Co or any brush with a sharp point. Size 0, 1, or 2 are all fine for infantry painting as long as the points are sharp. If you find yourself having to go smaller than size 0, chances are the brush is not very good quality.

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Also Custodes, I really like these models

>>50551809

Is that shininess in the recesses agrax gloss?

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Homemade Skyshield Landing Pad update. Drybrushed the walls to make the texture stand out and then decided to paint the Aquilas gold in the name of the Emperor.

>>50551954
nah its just riekland fleshshade

>>50552477
nice work

>need MKV jump packs
>no bits sites have them
>already have enough HH bodies

Anyone know where to get some besides buying raptors? I am trying to make a night lords army that won't look out of place in a 30k game.

>>50553476
You could look into 3rd party bits sellers. Some kind of look like mkV.
Or try to get some old school RT ones that look the part.

>>50553476
Hoard o Bitz? I never see anyone mentioning this site, but they always seem to have what I need.

>>50553067
Thanks!

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>>50553746
The only 3rd party ones I've seen are the single big ones..

>>50553753

Checked.

>>50546076
Not to be a no-fun, but it seems you got two stories of MkIII legs instead of one wth legs and another with the heads and torsos.

Other than that, congrats, dude!

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>>50553798
>The only 3rd party ones I've seen are the single big ones..
MaxMini has two other variants of these.

Back in the day when only the most dedicated SM players bothered to convert the older mks from plastic kits these were popping up all over the place.
If you don't like these ones check the other usual suspects. This was a popular design because it's what the old metal models had and it's also the design the FW mkV assault squad uses.

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>>50553476

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>>50554130

I like these more than >>50554829

They look the part.

>>50554130

Actually, I kinda want to see how they look with the Marine on them.

>>50551776
THIN
YOUR
PAINTS

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It looks like you are trying to make a Miniature at work, would you like some help?

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>>50555037
i asked google for a picture

You can also find pics of the other variants they sell

>>50554987
>"That's it, OUT."

>>50555303

I honestly didn't think there would be any there.

I did. See the other models, but this one seems to look more the part.

Is it me, or does the pack sit oddly with the Marines? It looks... Idk

>>50555400
I think it's because the turbines are a bit further apart than the fw/gw bits.
If you check the other variants from maxmini you'll see that they don't have the same issue though. If you think that is an issue.

Just google for 'maxmini jump pack conversion' and you should find plenty of images.

>>50555680

Yea. I think you're right. I'm not sure if it's an issue. They have the turbine look for sure. I actually like the silver wing pattern the best... Except for the wings. They're not very Night Lord-y.

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got a new phone so now I have a camera that isn't dog turds

I posted pics a few times a while ago but my shitty old phone pics were terrible. here's a test pic of my dudes on the shelf. do you think the color scheme looks retarded or interesting? I was going for a "fuck color theory I'm chaos" look al a noise marines, but last time I posted there was a mixed response between "looks like ass" and "it's garish but fun"

>>50545491
Had pretty good luck with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. Just don't use it on resin.

I need to get a box and sort out postage, but i'm gonna send my secret santa thing tomorrow
10 tech thralls, a castellax, and a sallies dreadnought, and maybe something else fun

>>50555914
I really like the colour scheme. Feel like eyes need something more added to them tho.

>>50556113
yeah I tried to just do yellow with a red glaze in the corners and have the yellow show in the center but now it's not very apparent/just looks orange on about 3/4 of the models, so I will fix that then

>>50545028
Got a couple of questions. I've only painted a handful of models so far, and I'm in the process of stripping the worst of them and going again. What are recommended primers you use? I first bought a brush on primer, but I found I don't really like it that much. Is Rustoleum decent?

Second question is, could I press a generic piece of fur cape into green stuff and let it harden to use as a mold?

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Here's the first mini i ever attempted at painting ever. I decided tonight that i was through painting grey and pewter armies (and guildball team) please criticize so far the things i'm most unhappy with are the lenses on the helmet and the fact that i'm awful at edge highlighting. Is this bad for a first paint job? I do plan on getting more colors. I picked my space marine kill team to break the ice with since i thought it would be a good place to start.

Also why does my cell phone camera tinge everything yellow?

>>50556462
rustoleum is great for mini priming. not quite as good as actual mini primer, but it does the best job i've found.

army painter make coloured primer+ base coat ranges, like a gunmetal primer, but i've found they tend to spray on quite thick and with their metallics, layer paints have trouble adhering to them.

>>50556502
thats prety good for a first time man
just work on brush control, as well as layering

>>50556514
that's good to know about the metallic. I was thinking about getting the gold and layering Tamiya red over it to get a candy apple red, but I think I'll just stick with a brushed on layer of golds.

Any mini primers that you'd recommend over army painter?

>>50556462
GW chaos black is generally considered to be good, but it's on the expensive side. Also I've heard that it's not a "true primer", idk stuff works great though. Haven't used the skull white or gray.

>>50556521
Yay i didn't botch it too bad!, So what can i do to thin out my lines? I'm afraid of slapping more paint on and making it look chalky

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>>50556462
I use Vallejo primer, either through an airbrush or brush on, but rustoleum will work just fine, might need to let the model dry overnight though. Perhaps I had a bad batch but when I prime with rustoleum it seems like it takes forever for it to actually cure.

As for green stuff, yes you can do that. I would rub some vaseline or carmex on the cape before you do it to keep the greenstuff from sticking. Heres one I made with some leftover green stuff, stuck it onto the top of this coffin and it made a skull and rose mold.

Everyone says GW primer is expensive but it's always worked fine for me and I'm willing the pay the extra money to make sure whatever I use isn't going to ruin a model and will give me consistent results. Better safe than sorry.

>>50556582
Normal $4 primer has worked fine for me too, I've never had a problem with flat black krylon, and my new favorite, their plain grey primer.

>>50556582
ive only ever had 1 problem with GW primer. the nozzle was damaged and it sprayed all over my shirt

the old stuff was complete shit, but their newest range is great

i really like that they put out all those new coloured sprays. zandri dust spray saved me at least 100 hours of base coating skeletons for my tomb kings

>>50556573
alright, thanks man.
>>50556582
I thought about doing the same for my couple.

Since most of my model is going to be metallic, should I look into getting a few of my shades, like agrax and nuln in the gloss variant? I have the standard right now.

So, how exactly do I make a glaze? I've got some vallejo glaze medium I want to try out and start leveling up my painting skills.

>>50556654
Thin your paint with water, then mix glaze medium 1:1 with paint.

I'd like a cheap alternative to GS. Any ideas?

>>50556654
mix with another paint till translucent

Do airbrush users make you angry?

I understand it's a great tool and you can do a lot with them. Base coating, OSL, visual effects, easy blending and shading, etc.
I just really don't like it when I see an airbrushed army and the player thinks the airbrush is a complete substitute for brush work. It's good for many things but you can't do fine details. It just comes across as being lazy and a shortcut.

Do the GW colored sprays go on like a primer or do I need to do black/white and then a layer of colored spray over that?

>>50556502
not bad at all for a first paint job, if this is your first model then you shouldn't have any trouble improving in no time. one thing i notice is that there's a sort of blotchy look on the bolter casing which means some wash pooled up there, so focus more on getting the washes in the recesses by pushing the bulk of the liquid there and away from raised surfaces. looks like the same for the hand, seems like you washed that too but the wash was generally pooled instead of focused in the recesses which makes it look a bit blotched/flat. This can be fixed by simply applying wash to the recesses again and going over the raised areas with a little paint from the base color.

>>50556704
>>50556702

Thanks anons, hopefully this bears fruit.

>>50556719
They aren't a primer, so you're going to need to prime before you spray the base coat color.

>>50556707
Not really, it can be a great tool if you wanna process a bunch of minis fast by base coating. If you're just gonna base coat though and not put any actual effort into painting your army, then I might be a little annoyed.

>>50556702
Just get it on ebay and not from GW. Just type 2 parts modelling putty, and you should find some GS, but a lot cheaper.

>>50556742
I'll check it out. Never really used it before so I want to find it cheap as possible so I can practice a bit.

>>50556707
The tools don't matter, the result does. If an airbrushed model looks shit, it's not because it was airbrushed, it's because it was done poorly in general. There are lazy airbrush painters who airbrush literally everything and don't do much minute detail, so yeah, that looks bad.

>>50556719
GW has Chaos Black and Skull White "undercoat" sprays that are supposed to go on first, then you spray on the base coat colors.

>>50555914
Whats that color youre using for armor? Been looking for something similar but hard be sure without putting paint on models

>>50556741
>They aren't a primer, so you're going to need to prime before you spray the base coat color.
I haven't had any problems using the coloured spray cans without primer on plastic/resin. On metal models the coloured sprays don't stick properly and you'll want to base them with real primer.

>>50556800
The Fang GW spray base coat, drenched in Drakenhoff Nightshade wash to make it darker.

It has been an absolute son of a bitch to paint vehicles this way because of all the flat panels + needing wash to make it the correct color. I have to painstakingly apply bits of washes and glazes to the panels to make them smooth and it takes forever. I don't recommend it, but I had already painted a bunch of infantry before I started the rhinos and realized my folly.

Friends, anyone know where I can get a 28mm wolf skull? I'm trying to make a SW chaplain

>>50556901
Right now I'm thinking incubi darkness for mine, which yours look kinda similar to.
Sounds like a bitch with those vehicles, but even on infantry I would expect washes/shades to make the model look "dirty", how do you avoid that?

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these custodes are great models. Cant wait to paint them. wondering if i should get the retributor gold spray, since thinning metallics is tricky and theyre pretty much all metallics.

>>50556957
wut? incubi darkness is green

washes don't necessarily make a model look dirty if you are careful to avoid pooling, but you can get away with washing the whole model in the case of darker colors like ultramarine blue and mephiston red. lighter colors mean you're best off *only* washing the recesses carefully and multiple layering raised surfaces.

As for vehicles, it's best to wash them in the recesses only usually. I should have just started with the proper blue in the first place instead of creating it with wash, but w/e

>>50556707

No, because it's their loss for not realizing they're using the airbrush terribly. What pisses me off about airbrushers is those who refuse to admit that it's VERY fast and VERY easy for certain things like blending, basecoating, zenithals, non-pinpoint highlighting, etc. You literally just buy a good setup, press the trigger, and get smooth sprays.

It would take those same painters nearly a million years, if that, to achieve similar results by paintbrush. And yet they refuse to admit the airbrush in that situation is a huge benefit and can even be called a crutch or cheat.

I airbrush too but at least I realize airbrushing is fucking easymode for a lot of things. When someone actually has SKILL with an airbrush, you can tell. Their paintjob will be so good that it doesn't matter that they "cheated" with an airbrush.

So yeah, airbrush isn't "cheating" because it's just another tool, but in a way, it's very easy for any honest person to see why it feels that way.

>>50557073
>wut? incubi darkness is green
Ah, it looked bluish green to me, and drakenhof is green afaik. My eyes might be bad tho.

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>>50557307
incubi darkness is a dark teal I guess, pic related. drakenhoff nightshade is a very dark blue wash tho

might be that my camera that gives my minis a bit of a green tint

>>50557340
>you seem to be conflating "shitty hackjob obviously lazily airbrushed" with "great looking model that happened to have airbrushing as part of how it was made"

My post specifically covered this issue, so no, I'm not.

>>50557340

Zenithals and basecoats can be done just as easily with large base brushes or rattle cans. So why go out and buy an airbrush just to do these things?

Because it makes it easier and more convenient.

Just like a CRUTCH makes WALKING easier and convenient.

>>50557401
I realized that right after I reread your post, sorry i'm intoxicated

>>50557415
that is a terrible analogy since a crutch does not make walking more convenient if you can already walk fine on your own. it makes it worse.

but even then, is an automobile a "crutch" to drive to work because a bicycle is harder? no, it's just a different preferred method to commute. it is more efficient, sure, but it's not a "crutch" because crutch implies it's helping the disabled. you can be perfectly skilled at brush painting and prefer both the method/result and convenience of using an airbrush

>>50556720
Thanks for the pointers I was honestly afraid that I would be eaten alive in this thread. So in the morning in going to pick up a few more colors and try some layering on another space marine. I'll definitely rewash those parts you suggested in the morning though

>tfw a dog dies, you quit your job over your boss killing said dog, your model money was stolen and you missed out on secret santa job hunting

T-there will be one next year right?
Side note: warms my heart seeing the thought put into these gifts shown so far. I love you guys.

>>50557607

What the...

>>50557682
Yeah, thats what happens when you're in a state crippled by heroin addiction, including your boss. been a shitty past couple weeks.

On a good note, i came up with like 3 new conversion ideas while ive been stuck at home.

>>50555240
sensible chuckle

>>50557447
>he doesn't know how to twirl-walk with a crutch

Stay linear, walkfag.

>>50551776
Mmm, chunky.
Yellow is indeed the hardest base to use.

>>50552477
That looks fantastic! Keep up the good work, can't wait to see the final product!

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I hurt myself today
To see if I still feel
I focus on the pain
The only thing that's real
The needle tears a hole
The old familiar sting
Try to kill it all away
But I remember everything

>>50558754

AND YOUUUU COULD HAAAAVE IT AAAAALLLL

THIS IMPERIUM OF DIRT

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>>50558754
>>50558767
I will let you down
I will make you hurt

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>>50558754
>50558754
What have I become
My sweetest friend
Everyone I know goes away
In the end
And you could have it all
My empire of dirt
I will let you down
I will make you hurt

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Currently painting my bloodbowl orc team

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>>50558800
Something something i forgot the rest

Pictured is the Aqueerla, the symbol of the ultramarines, the greates and most capable warriors to grace the galaxy

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>>50558823
* fixed

Just wait til you see the gunners face

>>50557765
Post ideas

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>>50558834
Not fixed. Just tilt you monitor or something


Anyway

Here he is. Commander bigeye. He can spot a heretic from 3 galaxies away

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>>50558843
Feel free to laugh
I havent improved at all

>>50558857
>>50558823
>>50558791
>>50558754
You might be wondering why they all look dusty, thats because i was doing dome terrain and sneezed all my terrain powder all over my drying models


I think next time im just gonna go grey or spraypaint them blue and leave it at that

>>50558876
Well anon, youre a mess, but at least you know it.

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Found a couple of models I painted when I was about 9.

Oh boy oh boy...

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>>50558922

>>50553753
How plausible would it be to buy all the bits to build a squad of marines? Cost effective at all?

>>50558834
did you paint the omega on with liquid paper or something? because thats what it looks like

>>50559149
I ran out of bone white

>>50554074

FUUUUCKKKKKKK

Oh goddammit... Welp i'll havee to send those up and include a stamp for the legs to be sent back down.

What a fuck up i am.

>>50556502
>Also why does my cell phone camera tinge everything yellow?

Look for some setting for "White Balance". There will be a setting for indoor light that turns the yellow to White and takes a much better picture. Typically the icon for a lightbulb is used to represent indoor light on White balance settings.

Also nice nu-johnny

>>50559129
Depends.
Some bits are more expensive than others.

For smaller numbers it might be worth it, but usually these bits sellers buy a box, clip everything out and sell the parts.. and they want to earn some money so it won't make sense for them to sell a whole box worth of bits for less than the actual box.

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>>50555914

seriously nice colour scheme. One of the most interesting ive seen in a while, nice work anon

>>50552477

thats actually pretty dope, i feel inspired to make one of my own

>>50545182
>>50545160

mind writing up how you painted that? looks really nice anon

>>50555914

Old school and it really is garish but fun

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>>50548736
It arrived just a couple minutes ago! Thanks anon, I really appreciate it, especially the shapers and that instant clay!

>>50560520
Awesome dude. Hope everything comes in handy. There's nothing I like more than a mini with an interesting base or a cool conversion.

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I've almost finished working on my first Horus Heresy marine. Does the edge highlight on the bolter look okay?

>>50560520
Could you upload a better pic of the letter Anon?

>>50560520
What are these things on the left? Tools?

>>50561001
sculpting tools from the looks of it

>>50560790
Yesn the bolter is nicely done. Those stripes are cool, by the way. Did you use masking tape?

>>50560790
Looks cool to me.

Looks like my own present to myself arrived!

Pretty excited I must say

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>>50560839
Sure, this should be good enough to read. My phone camera is a bit potato unless its drowning in light.

>>50560753
I'll be the first to say that I'm no professional, and I've been out of practice for a while, but coming to /wip/ every day is building my motivation back. I'm waiting to get all the parts for a SM army together and start learning again with them. http://imgur.com/WFJD1w3 was the last mini I worked on, a couple months ago.

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>>50561056
Woops!

>>50560790
Motherfucker it's super clean I'm jelly.

>>50561076
Nice.

Hear my advise anon:
Place that compressor on the floor!
I had a similar one, and if its on it kinda vibrates and "rumbles". I had mine sitting on the desk and didn't payed attention and after airbrushing for a while the vibration of the machine made it move towards the edge of my desk and it fell down and broke.

>>50561151
Thanks, good tip, especially since my table is wobbly as fuck.

The instructions booklet in wonky english is the icing on the cake, I kinda expected REMOVE KEBAB somewhere.

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Be right back, got a tiny problem here. I just hope they got adaptators at the corner shop.

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I thought I would try experimenting with my Harlequins and try out some other diamond patterns besides the usual opposite limbs checkered thing. What do you guys think?

>>50561076

Would have saved up for something a bit better if I were you, but I'm sure it'll get the job done until its cheap parts break. Buying an airbrush helped speed up my painting no end.

>>50561215
Not using vastly superior three pin earthed plugs with strong square pins, HAH!
At least your using the right voltage and won't need a converter to go from 130 to 230 v

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>>50561257
kek

>>50558835
Sorry just woke up.
First idea was for my Gue'vesa, thinking of making some arms for Chickenwalkers to make Broadside stand-ins, the second and third are mostly just more infantry conversion, stealthsuit standins and stuff

>>50561329
What parts do you reckon will break?

It's not like I'll use it tremendously, just for priming and basecoating.

>>50561483
Its hard to say. I know a commission painter on youtube who made a video and he recommends that exact compressor. He said some parts get loose over time due to being cheap and all and the machine gets louder because of that, but its still working after 2 years. And that guy is using it excessively.

How much did you pay? Around $100?
I'd say its a perfectly fine machine to start out with. (The actual airbrush might be not as great though, but probably useable for priming and other "rough" work).

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>>50561015
No, just freehand. I've only used masking tape when I was painting Hazard stripes on a rhino.
But thank you very much for the compliment!
Here's the front of the model:

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>>50561526
Yeah around that, it was in euros but about that. And I'll only be using it for rough work, priming and basing so it should be fine.
For now it's going great, I just have to figure how to lower the pressure to 30 psi as it is much higher right now, about 60, but whenever I turn the valve to lower it, it goes up ineplicably.
Remind me what alcohol should be used to clean airbrushes?
Oh, and what's that little thingy at the end of the airbrush?

>>50561853
IPA (isoproyl alcohol) is fine.

If you want to clean, blow some water through it first, and then at the end some of the alcohol.

Once in a while i won't hurt to let some of the parts rest in a bowl with the cleaning alcohol for a couple of hours too.

>>50561853
That thingy either just holds your needle in place or it acts as a stop; RTFM (though you mentioned it's translated, best of luck).

Anons, i Need your advice.
I came up with a Thousand Sons colour scheme, but i'm stuck.
So far i have:
>Stegadon Scale Green base
>Sotek Green allover layer
>Coelia Greenshade wash
>Re layer Sotek Green
>Highlight Temple Guard Blue
>Silver Trim
>Black stripes (where usually yellow)

My problem is the colour of the fabrics and cloaks..
I'm thinking Black and white, but i Need a filler between, maybe warpfiend grey? Opinions?

>>50561891
I just watched this to make sure not to make any mistake cleaning it, looks like I did well, plenty of stuff I didn't know.

https://youtu.be/cv1BayuJ5mI

>>50561483

Seals and such will go eventually, compressor motor might burn out, or the valves might be leaky, the airflow may become inconsistent. >>50561853 sounds like you're having one or two teething issues with the settings already. It'll be impossible to get replacement parts too. In the end, it doesn't matter too much as you're not doing anything wildly complicated with it, and a decent branded kit might have cost you several times as much.

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Finished my very small 'weekend' project today. Included the before picture too for fun.

>>50562969
Awesome as always.

>>50562969
I wish someone makes that head for the new Magnus kit.

>>50562969
holy shit i thought you died

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>>50563001
You've already got the cyclops face; probably wouldn't take much. Maybe just exxagerate the existing jaw and put the horns in backwards.

>>50562969
So... is he going to be a familiar, or are you going to start an Epic Thousand Sons force?

On another note: Been refreshing a copy of Space Crusade. The Dreadnought is good... Gretchin are terrible, but I have a drawer with a couple of hundred alternatives in it (from RT Gretchin Freebooterz through to the current plastics), The few stealers will do, Androids are passable.... Think I'll buy some Prospero marines on E-bay for the loyalists and ass Forgeworld heavy weapons... But the orks kinda suck. The only things GW have at the moment that look cool enough are the Nobz or those hulking greenskins from fantasy. Anyone have any alternative Orks from 3rd party retailers? I'm looking for some hulking, nasty-looking buggers.

>>50563148
*add forgeworld heavy weapons. -ADD- them. :P

>>50562253
Anyone?

>>50563148
He was just painted up for a bit of fun, I could run him as a familiar in silver tower if I really wanted to.

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Got one enormous batch of minis all assembled, based, barrels drilled, mouldlines scraped. All ready to get basecoated.

>>50562969
Glad to see you post again, but I suspect you've been lurking the whole time.
You'll always be Savage Ork anon to us!

Looking forward to seeing how this little dude turns out.

>>50558876

Your whole series of pics produced many keks for me anon, thanks for that

Rip spess muhreenz

>>50563377
I picked up a few old epic Ork bits, just for fun. Think I have about 10,000 points of them now... if not 16,000 maybe. Gargants will do that to you. :/

Fun stuff, even if nobody round me plays the game any more.

>>50557037

Do you have enough of them to warrant buying a whole can? Will you be able to use the can on any other project? Citadel metallics aren't *that* hard to thin, especially for a base coat. Vallejo metals tend to go from gunk to sparkly water with little space in between, though supposedly their air metallics are perfect right out of the bottle

>>50562253
White cloth might be nice as well. What's the lore behind your thousand sons?

>>50558922
now imagine these in green and you have 5000 points of SM from someone in my gaming group.

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>>50556720
>>50556720
>>50559427
Ok i just did a few touch ups oh my nu-johnny, figured out how to turn off that pesky white balance on my camera and here's what i have! Thanks a million guys i feel super encouraged to finish painting my killteam and practicing blending and highlights! Although i should build a proper shadowbox instead of using a white sleeved edh deck haha

>>50556702

As long as the subject of gw alternatives has been brought up, I know what to look for in a normal base, "layer" or detail brush but what is a good non-GW alternative to a dry brush (stiff bristles, wide variety of sizes, the flat chisel shape would be nice too)

I feel like just using any old brush will never get clean, duncan-tier drybrushing and I despise dirty/dusty drybrushed finish unless it's actually supposed to be dirt or dust

Celestine Will drop h&r

New sister stat, same as the Saint (1 wound less). Special Character avaible for a limite time.

>>50558808

Neaten up dem eyes dawg. Skin, armour, cloth all looks good, I feel like that mass of orange needs to be broken up though, especially on the linebacker guy. Maybe paint the separate plate strip thing on the shoulder pad that has the spikes on it a contrasting colour? I don't think silver or gold would work but maybe white or a blue-gray?

>>50563656

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>>50547117
Snow is actually a good idea. Thanks bro!

>>50549608
Cheers dude!

>>50559715
Sure thing dude

>Base black
>Retributor armour
>heavy Agrax earthshade wash
>Retributor armour again
>Auric armour on top parts (where the light would naturally hit)
>Highlight with runefang steel
>The red is tamiya clear red over the retributor armour

Really easy to do and gives a nice deep gold. I was going to try NMM but realised A) I couldn't be arsed and B) I prefer a simpler more realistic looking armour. The same goes for the blades, I'm not a fan of garish power blades etc, not disputing they are well done, but I just prefer a more natural looking blade.

>>50562969
So I didn't read your post first, I just looked at the image, and then read the replies, because that's the smart way to do things.

Anyway, I thought the top part was what you wanted the model to look like and the bottom was how it came out, so when you were getting compliments and people happy to see you, I wasn't sure if it was sarcasm. Then I read the post and it made sense.

A lesson was learned here today, never read, it's funnier that way.

>>50563555
Yeah white's cool, but do i do the inside of the cloak in white too? Would darkened down Screamer Pink work instead, for the Inside i mean?

For my lore, i am still in the early Stage, as i didn't buy WoM in favour of Traitor Legions, so i don't have much Information on the current canon.

>>50564034
Also i now know where my inspiration came from. Apparently i have Stolen the Alpha Legions HH colour scheme sans the metallic effect. Huh.

Anyone have some good conversions for seraphon? A lot of what I've seen is just stock models and paint schemes and I'm aiming for mine to really pop.

Also, the new SoB model (new to me at least) she looks great but is there anyway to fix her face to make her look less haggard? Or was that just the paint job they did?

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I didn't think this was worth its own thread, so I'll ask here: what paint brushes are the best value? Citadels are really nice, but there had to be something at a similar quality for a better price. I need a few brushes to get back into this, but I'm not paying 50 bucks for 4 brushes again.

>>50564198
There are a couple of companies doing cheap-ish sable brushes in the 3-5€ range. Depends on where you live anon

>>50564198
I've been using these for about a year and I love them. Inexpensive, they last for months and they feel really good. http://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Brushes/Size-2-Mini-Kolinsablon-Round-Brush/p/5279-KA0355

>>50563408
what legion?

>>50564102
The alpha legion is everyone and everyone is alpha legion or some crap like that, though. So it could still be fluffy, if not a stretch

>>50564363
from the bunny ear dreadnaught and terminator armed with a kopesh, i'd say thousand sons

what glue do i use to stick forgeworld resin together with, also what glue for FW resin with GW plastic parts?

>>50564433
super glue

>>50563597
Looking good.

>>50563408
damn son what are all those dudes for, starting a completely new army?

>>50564374
idk man,
i don't even like the Alpha Legion
even in denial, i am Alpharius

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>>50563597

Lookin' very sharp there, anon, but ... how is going to use the wisdom of his bolter magazine when it's too far away from his head from him to hear the whispers?

>>50564648
has anyone ever painted a chaos johnny

might have to pop his heresy cherry if not. you do realize that voices coming from a bolter magazine aren't normal right? could be a dark force . . .

>>50562969
How do you blend?

Do you use 1 brush to apply the paint and then 1 wet, paintless brush to spread the edges?

Or do you wetblend by applying the 2 colours and while theyre still wet mixing them with 1 paintless, wet brush?

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>>50545192
I just got mine, he'll join the rest of my elves on the tabletop shortly. Thanks anon!

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Currently working on my veterans, giving them shotguns from the space marines scouts sprews.

Guy on the left is done, I still have to fill the gap on the right guy's hand but I'm in love with the posture and that head.

Alright, noob here. Wondering how to get really consistent decals on shoulderpads for SM, without using waterslides, and being shit at freehand.

Anyone tried a pressmould made out of greenstuff? Some sort of masking? Anything other than being shit? Don't have the dosh to get custom made ones either.

Also sorry if I'm retarded in any way

>>50565545
neat. I never heard of Banelords before

>>50563623
Something that doesn't have long bristles and like you said, just something with stiff bristles. Literally any cheap $1 brush could do the job.

>>50564198
I got a cheap hobby brush from michaels for fine details, and its not dead yet. It was only like $1.

>>50565825
You could just make a mold and cast a shoulder pad if you really want it that bad. But I think the most consistent way to do it is going to be the water transfer.

>>50565993
Nether had I but it's a beautful and crisp mini.

>>50566060
Its a homebrew chapter and can't afford custom transfers unfortunately. Right now my plan is:

>Make "master" decal on a shoulderpad
>Make a negative of it in greenstuff, creating a mould which fits on other shoulderpads
>Dump greenstuff on other pads and press with the mould, and clean up any excess after

As I said though I'm a noob so have no idea if this will work. Guess I'll have to experiment a bit

>>50565545
Yay, glad you like it.

>>50565993
>>50566064
is there like some kind of collection of all the miniature companies from the 50s until now, I am interested in the history of the industry. books etc. would be nice too

one of the smaller FLGSs in my town is a tiny little nook at what could almost be called half of a strip mall, and inside it's full of a shitload of various ancient miniatures from dozens of companies i've never heard of. a lot of the boxes/blister packs are decades old and yellow with age for games that nobody even remembers this millenium

>>50566177
I'm afraid there is not.

There isn't even a complete archive of all the warhammer minis (i assume because GW forbids it somehow).

What colour do you guys paint tongues and gums? On some of the ork models they're visible and it feels bad just painting them the skin colour. I'm not sure to use pink or purple, anyone have any preference?

>>50566261
Screamer Pink to Pink Horrror edge, with possibly an extra small highlight of white I suppose

>>50565825

Well, if you can't buy them, don't want to use decals, can't do freehand, then your only options really are making them from greenstuff. One by one or making one and then making a mould out of that and copying it for multiple ones.

>>50566314
Posted my plan (lmao) here

>>50566119

You reckon that will work?

>>50566337
Sculpting your own chapter badges out of greenstuff that don't look like pure shit is harder than just freehanding.

I know you don't want decals but you could cheaply purchase a sheet of Testor's decal paper + a can of the decal spray that the paper requires after printing for <$20. With my inkjet printer, the decals look somewhat grainy if you look at them up close but they aren't terrible. You should use the white paper instead of transparent, because the transparent shit is nearly useless since the decal itself is somewhat transparent too. BUT using white paper means you have to precisely cut the shape of your decal out, so it's best to go with a simple shape. I made my chapter badge a triangle with stuff inside it for this reason.

I know this probably doesn't sound too great but it's an option. Also a much better idea than sculpting chapter badges.

>>50566505
Ye I chose something simple in anticipation but it might be too hard still. I liked the idea of greenstuffing it because I think the depth on shoulders is nice.

Honestly though if my plans crash I'll probably just leave the pads clear until I've learnt how to freehand well enough

>>50546076
>>50546183

D&G Anon, mail me at Trypticon @ gmail to fix the bloody annoying fact I sent you the wrong sprus!

Which Vallejo Air is closer to Leadbelcher for airbrushing?
I tried their gunmetal but it is super dark, litteraly one Nuln Oil wash and you have IH.

>>50566759
VMA Steel or VGA Chainmail Silver maybe?

There are also 2 Gun Metal paints, was it the VGA or the VMA that was almost black?

Because in theory the VGA one should be damn close to Leadbelcher.

>>50566839
Sound, it should be the one I ordered, hopefully.

>>50551776
a little bit of serepim sepia would make that yellow look a little better.

>>50549315
Those are some nice chips.

Well, I've got a full bottle of Vallejo Crackle Medium that I didn't mean to get.
I'm new, and was looking for the crackle paint for bases that dries and chunks off, and the guy at the store pointed me to this for, as I requested, "crackle paint". I should have paid more attention, but I quickly got distracted by the bitz box.
What should I do with it?

>>50567111
It works the same way, you can just mix it with paints though.

I feel like doing some weathering on my Skitarii guys, any suggestions? Probably will be going for either muddy or dusty looking bases.

>>50567174
Will that work for big terrain cracks for drought/ice effects though? It's quite thin, and all of the materials I'm finding online suggest that it's intended more for cracks on a smaller scale, like on a mini's gear itself. Still possibly useful eventually, but...

>>50567201
Duncan did a tutorial on how to do dusty cloaks.
As for bases, crackle paint like Agrellan Earth is very good for cracked bases.

>>50567324
It indeed doesn't crack as deep as the coarse stuff GW has, but mixing it with a thicker paint and applying a thick coat might give a bigger effect, as that's what you do with the GW stuff as well.

Actual cracked earth it's probably too fine for I'm afraid.

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Lurker here, posting bfg stuff I'm working on.

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This will be a night lords ship.

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And some heavy cruisers that are very wip.

>>50557765
Haha your state sucks!

>>50550059
Good job, you built a model? I guess?
What's to rate, there is no paint in them

>>50567760
They're still Works In Progress though, none of those look standard, they're all conversions.

>>50563785
Ok, where can I buy these Custodes? I cannot find them for the life of me.

>>50567948
Prospero box or ebay

>>50567948
Currently, the only box they're in is The Burning of Prospero.

>>50567966
>>50567971

Dank, thanks anons.

>>50567516
>>50567499
>>50567472
Where did you get your hands on bfg stuff? That looks nice.

>>50564648
Oh shi--- i may have to pop his arm off and angle his head a little bit

Would Isopropyl Alcohol 70% work to clean an airbrush?

The ones at 90% have unfortunately enormous posting costs.

Should work fine, unless you've got paint dried on super thick.

>>50568550
works.

You probably can get 90% stuff at your local drugstore/pharmacy though.

Woodstock-anon, your package has been shipped! It should be leaving central Ontario tomorrow, I have no clue when it'll get to you but you'll know what to do when it gets there!

>>50568521
Thanks, I have a bunch from many years ago, I ordered a whole lot at once. Then they stopped selling them and I didn't even know, I would have bought more.
Now I am buying stuff off ebay ( hard to get good deals, almost everything is really expensive) and I am planning on buying some 3d printed stuff from shapeways.

I have enough models for a full chaos and a full Imperial fleet. Once I finish them I am gonna try and get my friend to play with me.

>>50568647
Weirdly enough, I couldn't. Maybe it's because I asked for isopropyl alcohol, but I did 3 pharmacues and none of them had it. Maybe I should have simply asked for 90% alcohol.

>>50559629
found this, which will actually work well for me seeing that im doing a dark angels army

http://hoardobits.com/cgi/hob/shop.pl?cat1=Bits&cat2=Warhammer%2040k&cat3=-Dark%20Angels&cat4=&page=2&view=03172012-1-5

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Made a mold of the new TS terminator heads and am currently converting the BoP ones into Scarab Occult

>>50570080
Nice work

>>50570080
Looks cool.

Are you the recaster anon with the lego molds?

Anyone got the directory of instructions on FW stuff? Trying to find the guides for a China Chinork I"ll be building.

>>50570167
If it was recent then no. I posted some casts about a year back, but nothing really since then. I do use Oyumaru and Lego though.

>>50570206
>Chinork
Holy shit, what are this things rules?

>>50566177
>>50566205
You might try http://solegends.org/

>>50570446
http://www.miniatures-workshop.com/lostminiswiki/index.php?title=Main_Page is more up to date

>>50545192
Mine was sent yesterday, it should be received within the next week or so.

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>>50565993
Banelords are from the old Malestrom Games model line. Someone else picked them up and they exist under the same names (Banelords, Banebeasts and another line). The resin they use is good, but fragile when thick (avoid clippers and just take time)

They're awesome models at a fairly high price sometimes tho.

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base coated but i'm not quite satisfied...

>>50571033
what model is this? Looks dope.

For the coloring, I might suggest some silver bits to break up the gold, though a wash and highlight might be all you need. Basecoating is just step 1, anon.

Also, the hair and skin will afford you lot's of space to work in in regards to creating contrast. Forge on, you can always paint over the gold if it ends up being too much.

>>50571188
satyxis gunslinger warmachine

>>50571188

1 of the satyxis gunslingers. from the cryx faction of warmachine.

yeah I think i'll give it a was and highlight and see how I feel

>>50571033

SATYXIS BRO HI FIVE

I got sick of waiting for those faggots at PP to update the horrible raider sculpts so I'm glad I can make my all Satyxis army look good now by just running Gunslingers

>>50571382

hate to break it to you but they're a gift. i play gators

>trying to get some Stormcast Eternal Paladin legs for conversions
>Every fucking bitz store is sold out

Anyone got some spare ones they ain't usin?

>>50571428
Heard you might be able to get some free from GW stores, if you ask about trying to painting in the store.

>>50545192
Sent mine out and said it was delivered already.

>>50556502
>Crimson Fists
God-Tier taste anon.

Any neat paint schemes for admech/skitarii? The Ted looks great but I'd like to be unique

New bread when?

>>50572709
Here you go anon >>50572904

>>50561449
This face is both well done and hilarious

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>>50564648
>Tfw someone posts your oc a whole year later

>>50545192
sent mine out to germany today, a krautbro is going to become very happy. probably wont arrive until the 14th or whatever though since its sent with schenker.

>>50567472
>>50567499
>>50567516
new BFG box when :(