WIP: Work in Progress Thread

>>50645875
First for POST YOUR CURRENT PROJECT!

GO!

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>>50645955
Blood Bowl Humans and Fyreslayers!

>>50645971
They look AWESOME

>>50645971
They are awesome, how did you do the skin?

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>>50645955
Continuing work on this tank thing, I need to glue the treads on, then I'll move onto the sponsons.

>>50646074
This looks SWEET AS WELL. Thats a big turret. Have you considered putting anything on the back so it wouldnt flip if fired?

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>>50646055
>>50646049
Thanks so much! I am using the project to experiment with painting different skin tones as I don't paint humans that often so haven't tried things other than caucasian.

The white skin is Cadian Fleshtone, washed with Reikland Fleshshade, then layered with Cadian Fleshtone and highlighted with Kislev Flesh.
The black skin is Dryad Bark, washed with Druchii Violet, layered with Dryad Bark, highlighted with Gorthor Brown then given a thin glaze of Seraphim Sepia.

Would you guys be interested in a picture guide of different basic skin tones? Im doing white, pale/albino, dark black, lighter black/mixed and asian/tanned.

>>50646074
At first I was like 'That's a pretty fucking big cannon for a Rhino chassis' and then I realized it's on a LR.

Disturbing.

>>50646288
>>50646288
The albino would be neat. My kroot are an albino-ish bone/red spines, could be useful!

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Hey, painting up some dropfleet commander shaltari, and am 100% torn between two colour schemes.

Which ever one I choose, I know I am going to regret not doing the other, and everyone I have asked have been 50 50 (half so one, half go with the other)

What does /tg/ prefer, the light blue colour scheme or the orange colour scheme?

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Remember people, practice makes perfect.

I stumbled on this guy's instagram, turns out he won several Golden Daemons and at least 1 Slayer Sword as well!

Only 6 years between those two pics!

>>50646288

>the ball hog weakling catcher that gets the glory is a white guy
>the nameless cannon fodder lineman that gets all the wimmins is a black guy

nigga you raccist!

So what paints am I going to need for Alpha Legion+Cultist? I'm putting them (or at least their cheaper company equivalents) on my Christmas list.

I know there's 101 ways to make them translucent or cool or whatever, and while that'd be nice, I'm very new to this, so probably not what I should be going for. Unless you guys know a way for a total beginner to do that, but w/e.

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>>50642407
Well, those are a commission, so someone else is going to paint them.

>>50645204
Commissioner's preference. Gorkamorka rules state you can use any kind of bases you want to. Originally the box set had just tiny little platforms, somewhat similar to plastic army man, so they'd take up less space when loaded onto vehicles.

Also, repostin'

How do you actually use the Citadel Texture Paints?
Im new to this, going for Admech and I got some Martian Ironearth.

Also, how do you guys get your parts for basing? I kind of want to trick out my characters, and Knight when I eventually get it, and I def. want to make some fancy bases for my 30k Admech when I get them at Xmas.

>>50646428
If you dont have an airbrush, just go for the classic blue and green scheme

>>50646360
Both look great but I am partial to the purple/green. Would look killer on a whole army.

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>>50645955
Finished up the Sister of Silence herself a while back, but I still need to build a base for her. I could use one of my Sector Imperalis bases but I'd like to do something a little nicer since I only have 15 of these models instead of like ~80 marines. I'm really open to ideas.

Other than that, just working on assembling the next batch of 10 marines, including the pauldrons and bolters for the previous 10 marines. I finally finished scraping the mould-lines on everything so I need to wash the resin stuff to get the release agent off and then I can do some priming when the weather gets less shit.

>>50646469
Got it, but what paints?

Macragge blue, Druchii Violet, Kabalite Green, and Moot Green from the Warhammer TV "Painting Alpha Legion" video?

What about the metallic parts?

>>50646479
Thanks, that is 1 for light blue

>>50646515
Pretty damn cool, anon!

I realized i asked what everyone was doing then didnt say mine! Its a toss up between priming and painting! Gue'vesa or Kroot Hound

>>50645955
Just about to start painting some Skitarii Rangers, but haven't painted anything in a few weeks so this will be a tad shoddy.

>>50646252
>>50646332
Thanks! I didn't think about putting something on the back like that. Now that I'm seeing it all assembled I'm thinking maybe I should have went with something smaller, really just wanted it to look scary

>>50646515
prospero bases. stirland mud with chunks of clear resin and plastic, and chips of marble.

>>50646742
Go for the little kickstand in the back, like the old school tanks! Gives it a little length too

>>50646380

Pssh it's like he hasn't improved at all.

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Welp, they look pretty bad imo, but I guess it's a start.

My first model done when I was a wee nipper for reference.

How do I paint, say, a crimson hunter without an airbrush in a way that doesn't look like shit?

>>50646800
Goodness anon. Crop that image for the love of god.

Now, we've seen that you think k your paints too much. Play with it on your fingernail before applying it on the model. And most importantly, make sure you don't have too much on your brush, otherwise you'll overload it and it'll turn out shit, no matter what you do.

But keep at it. Fix you flaws, think about them when painting your next model, and don't reproduce them.

And watch some Duncan's tutorials, they're really helpful.

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>Immolators back up for sale at non-scalper prices
>I could use some more Rhino chassis anyway
Can anyone confirm if the bit circled in red is a Sabbat Pattern power armor helmet? I want a lot of those on hand just in case.

>>50646380
I live in the same area as Andy and have known him for years. For some reason despite him being a nice guy, he lies about how long he has been painting for. He's probably been painting at a competitive level for 6 years but his actual hobby experience has been at least twice that.

Either way, he can say what he wants as long as he keeps giving me painting tips.

Solvent anon here.

Been working on modules for a bit. Is it bad I can smell it? And if I am in a room with no doors that is connected to the whole house, should I be fine? I have been wearing a face mask for most of my work too, just in case.

Thanks

>>50646942
It is yes. Shame the Immolator didn't come back sooner while I was still interested in doing an army of them.

>>50647014
Weird.

But if he's a nice guy, it doesn't really matter I guess.
Maybe he's ashamed of his level before that?

>>50646942
wait, up for sale where, GW?

>>50646895
Sorry, dunno how to crop on a phone.

The photo shows up a load more flaws than by eye though. Ink wash on the lasgun looks a bit messy and the metal is too thick. Flesh sucks too.

Im chuffed with how the cloth turned out though.

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Going to be using these as Sentinel proxies for my Renegades and Heretics army - I'm not sure how to convey their Nurgle alleigiance. I'm imagining them as powerloaders that have been hastily retrofitted with weapons, and their pilots have added a few grisly trophies, but aside from that I'm not sure.

Debating whether to give them a bright scheme to show their powerloader past or whether to paint them green to match my army

>>50647082
Yeah, on the webstore.
>https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Sisters-of-Battle-Immolator-2016

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>>50647021
Unless your face mask comes with an ABEK1 filter or equivalent, it won't do much. You need strong ventilation and moving air to be kinda safe.

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>>50645955
The big guy himself.

Started doing his skin while first round of washes are drying on the base.

>>50646461
>How do you actually use the Citadel Texture Paints?

You shouldn't use them at all. Other companies produce the same shit, for less than a tenth of GWs price. Since you are new its ok, but next time (the tiny GW pot will be empty in no time anyway) check for Vallejos texture paint instead.

How to use:
You take a really bad old brush and with that you slab it onto your desired surface. Bases, underneath a tank.. etc. Then you use the brush to spread it around until you like it and everything is evenly covered and then you let it dry. It takes a bit longer than regular paint. If you let it rest over night you are 100% save.

Then you can apply a wash to its surface and then a very subtle drybrush with whatever color you like. Some bone or dust or sand color.


Parts for basing: Like what? Rocks and little pieces of wood? From outside. If you want some solid rock underneath your minis feet, get some cork from your local "do it yourself"-store. Its super cheap and one 1mx1mx3mm sheet will last forever.
You can also use leftover parts of your sprues and cut them into longer pieces for parts of industrial structures or shorter pieces for bricks.

For further infos:
http://www.belloflostsouls.net/2014/04/hobby-build-rubble-bases-in-3-minutes.html

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>>50647095

>>50647385
Fu-uuu-uck.

>>50647517
>>50647095

The lasguns are pretty bad immo. I'd go over them again with a different color if i were you. A darker gray maybe, to make them fit to the armor better.

The skin could use some highlights and i wouldn't paint that radio thing on the helmet in the middle in shiny silver. Shiny things at your head in a warzone literally ask for an enemy sniper shot.

The eyes of the guy on the left look surprisingly good though.
I'd say fix the rifles and neaten up a few things here and there and do the bases and they will turn out pretty decent.

>>50645002

GW metals have a very narrow band between "too thick" and "watery mess" when thinning them. Either try thinning more paint at once or get Vallejo Model Air Steel / Silver (They look about the same), the VMA metals are really nice, thin out of the bottle and they go on smooth as anything. Mix with black for your leadbelcher / ironbreaker equivalents.

>>50647385
ooo he naked

>>50647590
>The skin could use some highlights and i wouldn't paint that radio thing on the helmet in the middle in shiny silver. Shiny things at your head in a warzone literally ask for an enemy sniper shot.
Dude. You are applying real life logic to a wargame, which is an abstraction by default, and then 40k specifically of all things.
In actuality your army's commander would look just like all the other guys and not even wear rank insignia in an actual warzone, but since you wouldn't be able to tell the models apart from a few feet away on the table and they would be fucking boring to look at nobody does that.

>>50647568
I smiled, now I have to listen to that song

>>50647449
Much appreciated, anon. I'll pop down to the DIY place sometime in the next week.
Good thing about playing Admech is that the Martian colours suit their bases just fine, and with a drybrush of something like Zandri Dust and a few twigs and rocks I can probably get something that fits with Xana flora for my 30k DarkMech.

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>>50647385
>>50647568
>>50647806
Oh, I get it now

>>50647777
>In actuality your army's commander would look just like all the other guys and not even wear rank insignia in an actual warzone,

Not really. Officers often enough wore fancy uniforms on the battlefield. Dumb idea in most cases but it happened and still happens.

>>50647880
Yeah during the napoleonic wars. They didn't have to deal with sniper fire like the other anon suggested though.
If your military commander does not even think of taking off his insignia, you're in for a really bad time, my friend.

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>>50647916
Russian officers wore blue hats and blue pants in WW2 Anon.

After a while they stopped doing that.

>>50646571
Got any pictures? I played Tau back in 3e and I really miss the promise of auxiliaries. I really wanted Tau to go down the route of lots of Kroot, Vespid, and Human mercenaries; Demiurg and Nicassar fliers; and so on. I actually like all their mobile suits because I'm a big mecha dork but I also think Kroot models and kit-bashed Gue'vesa are the bees knees.

>>50646744
I might go for a more urban Propsero look with lots of marble dominating the base but have it very smashed or battleworn. Maybe put a tiny church on it.

>>50646454

Where did I see those Orks before :^)

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>>50648067
Its a bad picture, but here is my Kroot Pathfinder and Fire Warrior Shas'ui, and some of the Gue'vesa i have done so far

>>50646804

Layering and glazes, lots of them.

>>50647160
So then what do most people do?

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>>50648067
A close-up of a couple Gue'vesa, these guys are my first full conversion project, alongside the Kroot, everything before that was just extra bits glued on stuff

>>50648004
Yeah. WW2 is pretty much when modern warfare began. Including snipers.

Look I didn't think I'd have to explain that any further. GW most designs take inspiration from historical uniforms and aside from this being where the inspiration comes from it's also flat out impractical for a wargame to not have some kind of distinguishing marks for special weapons or squad leaders. So obviously a game will have them.

Telling a novice painter not to do whatever he likes with painting his minis because of a halfassed real life argument in a setting where you got literal walking tanks in bright red or yellow armor on the battlefield is just silly.

I was not saying you're not supposed to paint blue hats on your dudes, quite the opposite, I was saying that the other anons argument was pretty nonsensical considering the context.

>>50648130
>>50648164
I like the pale Kroot skin, though yeah, it's hard to make out much else. I have a dozen Kroot from when I started playing 40k (like 16 years ago) so their paint job is awful. I might steal your colour scheme.

Looks nice, was it hard putting the pulse rifle onto the Guardsman? Also are there rules for Gue'vesa somewhere? I swear I saw them in an Imperial Armour book somewhere.

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Silver Tower special delivery for you, yes you!

>>50648280
The pulse rifle was actually pretty easy. I cut it with a longer notch on the top, sliced the lasgun barrel off, then used a dremel to drill a slot for the pulse barrel. The heads were more difficult to be honest, the cadians being monoposed.

Not sure about rules, im doing this more as a mix up for a regular Tau army. Humans fill in Breacher and Fire Warrior spots, Kroot fill in Pathfinders and Fire Warriors, and Tau are the majority of the mix.

>>50648321
I really dig the highlights on the blue, are those the new blues? Are there are lot of Tzeentch symbols on the model? I see one on the end of the left-tassel-robe-cloth thing but that's easily replaceable. (I'd love to turn them in 30k Thousand Sons.)

>>50648402

They are, 1ks and ahriman blue.

Actually no, not that many symbols at all, although it depends on the spru options selected

>>50648280
Yes rule Gue'vesa exist, though they're not great both powerwise nor variety. Basically 10 guardsmen with a an option for the sergeant to take a pulse rifle, while all armies of the imperium gets hatred towards them.

>>50647101
Go with a bright, powerloader scheme...but then rust and corrode them. Have the paint flaking away to show the decayed metal underneath, oil stains as it leaks from poorly-maintained joints...that sorta thing.

>>50648436
Thanks, which kit is this guy from? I looked at the Exalted Sorcerer and Rubric Marines kit and I don't see that headpiece anywhere. Damn it man, I really need to finish these Imperial Fists before I start another army!

>>50648462
Gross.

>>50648477
Yeah, I think that'd look fantastic. Are there any tutorials out there to achieve that sort of effect? I suppose liberal use of Typhus Corrosion and washes would get me there.

i fear... are the rerelieced sisters resin?

>>50647385

Looking good, why a street base though? Seems a little mundane.

>>50647385

A ruined city street base for a naked wizard demon muscle man is weird

>>50649058

GW site is still showing that they're metal and charging the ridiculous prices for them as well.

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Finished up my first 30k dudes, fucked up the base rims with varnish though. Welp.

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>>50649667

>>50649667
Go back and fix it you stupid autist.

>>50649682
>>50649667
These look fantastic! I love that the hazard stripes are in different places on the legs on different models, it really makes them stand apart (along with the sweet bases) How did you do the bases by the way? I'm really digging the barbed wire especially.

For varnish did you do a gloss coat and then a matte coat like people suggest? Some people last thread were saying matte varnish kills the shine of metallics but yours look good to me.

>>50647101
Who makes these minis?

>>50649423
>>50649483
I was playing around with glowing runes and shit at first, but I kinda like the idea of an ordinary backdrop for my Sons. Can't everything be crumbling space-egyptian ruins and desert. Especially when you're stomping a space yiff dread into the ground

>>50646942
Should warn you that the website lists it as a 'plastic and resin kit'. This sprue may not be part of it.

>>50649895
these are Mantic Striders; they have options for both these plagued up ones and clean ones.

>>50648554
I'm afraid I can give you the idea, but not the steps for it! I've never handled a corroded model. You could try seeing if you can crack the paintwork, then applying Typhus Corrosion.

>>50649935

fair enough, have you painted any Rubricae yet? pictures?

>>50649895
Mantic Games.

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>can only paint in 20 minute streaks without getting bored

What do you listen to? And good podcasts?

>>50650045
>>50650060
Thanks, knew I've seen them before but couldn't put my finger on it

>>50650102

I've watched them all before, but I put Doctor Faust's Painting clinic on autoplay mostly.

>>50650102
Horus Heresy audiobooks (since I'm painting a 30k army) or watch someone on Twitch usually.

>>50650102
Twitch.tv -> creative -> figurines

There is always someone worthwhile.

Besides that: Horus Heresy audiobooks

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Started work on a pair of knights this weekend from a Renegade box I was lucky enough to find. Idea is that they will be House Jormungand, with the serpent-esque theme to work along side my 30 Alpha legion, and the Norse-esque theme to work along side my 40k Space wolves. Tried to do a scale pattern on all the armor, and a metallic green made by multiple coats of waywatcher and biel-tan over runefang. I don't know what I'm doing for the base yet but probably not a church

>>50650188
There was this guy I really enjoyed watching but he hasn't streamed since the middle of last month. I hope he's just busy with work and not dead or something. He would just work on his models, chat with the viewers, and when the chat was quiet he would play audiobooks that we'd listen to together. And it was nice because it wasn't like those big Twitch channels that have annoying ass pop-ups and random noises when people subscribe, follow, etc.

>>50650356
About as imposing as The Shocker.

>>50650360
I like both kinds of channels. In the figurines sections even the "big" ones aren't that big. 100 viewers there is huge in figurines and only around 5 people i know reach that number regularly.

There are lots and lots of small but awesome streamers.

>>50650356
It's a neat, unique scheme anon. Although maybe change the bit that's supposed to be the underbelly on the crotch plate, seems like a dick joke waiting to happen

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>>50649667
>>50649682
Fucking Christ I'm jelly as fuck.
I just finished my very first squad, I thought I'd be original with my dudes here. Oh well.
C&C welcome. Bear in mind the Sarge and an other dude haven't got their bases finished yet.

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>>50650356

It's nice, but I hope you're going to do more on the edge of the armour plates, they're quite flat at the moment. Just picking out the rivets with wash would do a lot.

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>>50649696
Laaaater

>>50649840
Thanks! The bases for the normal dudes are just one of the citadel texture paints, the stirland mud one, it's faster than sand + pva and you can layer it around to get a churned up effect. The sergeant is cork covered with sand and pva then they were just painted up with nuln oil gloss and a light drybrush of rhinox hide.

The razor wire is from secret weapon miniatures. It's a pain to work with because it snags on everything and likes to bend at the smallest touch.

The puddle was some gloss varnish with greenish paint mixed in, then while it was drying a bit of orange and swirled around with a toothpick. When it was dry, layered it with two-part epoxy (or still water) and then gloss nuln oil on the edges. The rest of the derbis on the other models is plasticard i-beams, corrugated sheet, and pipes from hobby train stores.

>>50650451
Those dudes rock, are the ruined walls bits of plasticard or something else, and did you make those spikes out of shaved sprue off cuts? I couldn't think of a way to make those but those look really good, so I might steal that!

>>50650655
>>50649840

Forgot to mention I haven't actually sealed the models because like you said, I don't know how it'll affect the metal so I'll have to do a test model. I sealed the base rims because vallejo black always rubs off otherwise.

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>>50650655
>>50650684
Indeed, plasticard and sprue bits! I just used Duncan's tutorial on rust weapons to give it an old look.

On the other hand, your bases are exactly what I'm trying to pull off, I'm even using the same paints most of the time, with lesser success I'm afraid!

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How do I brush varnish my miniatures? I've been painting on and off for a decade but I've never done it.

Reading all the stuff I've heard about spray varnishes, and with winter here, I'd want to avoid it.

Let's say I just get a bottle of Testors Dullcote or something, do I just paint the model and leave the base? Will it fuck up static grass or tufts? Can you put it on too thick easily?

>>50647101
>Mantic Striders
>£13 a pop
>available from retailers at a discount

I'm guessing my 30k Militia just got sentinels.

>>50650754
I'd seal before static grass and tufts if possible.

Hopefully I can finish this Yuan-tI wizard mini I'm using and post it here. I've been experimenting with glazes and layering and it has made a huge difference in the quality of my paint jobs.

>>50650947
Show a model painted without glazes and layers so that we can see the difference next to it.

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>>50646074
I am just about done with this build, just a couple little things to do before paint. Assembled and magnetized the sponsons, glued the cannons into their final position, and glued the treads on. Overall I'm pretty satisfied with how it came out. In case anybody was wondering, the main turret, cannons, sponsons, and treads are all from Blood and Skulls Industry.
>>50646781
I'll have to check around and see if I can find a kit or something to buy, but otherwise I'm gonna move on to paint. I have a christmas battle soon and I really want to bring this thing.

Is there anyway of getting hold of single models like terminators from the new Horus Hearsay sets? Bitz sites don't tend to sell individual models from these boxes and when they do they end up at £10.

If I went to a hobby store maybe?

>>50651036

I'll put it side by side with one of my recentish (last 6 months) high effort minis that didn't use glazes.

>>50647385
> No huge limp daemon Wang swinging between his legs
2/10

>>50651513
> limp

>>50651536
I guess your right, he would probably have a murder boner or something

>>50649667
>>50650451
nice work anons, there can never be enough hazzard stripes. will lurk for updates

does anyone here has the ultramarines legion herald limited edition? how did you build/paint yours? i got one yesterday, i like the model but i don't care for ultramarines. i think i will replace the arms/shoulderpads and backpack and give him a mk IV helmet. i will keep the standard the U and the names/numbers can represent some campaign my purple marines fought in or something

>>50651590
IronI call enough, you can't see most of the stripes on this pic since I had this squad have its markings on the right elbow and knee.

>>50651682
Ironically*
But I guess the typo was fitting.

What is the difference between an ink and a wash? Vallejo for example sells both, but I am not really sure what I should expect.

>>50651590

I have it but it's in my pile of unopened blister packs. I thinka headswap is definitely the right call on that model anyway, but you're going to need to file off the Ultima from his kneedpad and bolt pistol as well (it's a bit like hunt the skull on a regular space marine, except with Us)

>>50651737
i just spotted the u on the kneepad, i have to be really carefull but i can scrape it away. it may take a while i will post pics when i buid him

>>50649667
Where did you get the barbed wire my dude?

>>50652071
Check >>50650655

>>50651581
They didn't call him the red cyclops for nothin'.

>>50651711
I've never used inks before but I've not heard good things about vallejo washes. I think people tend to recommend GW for them.

>>50653109
That was just an example. I personally have no problem getting the paints from Army Painter, GW, Secret Weapon, and the like.

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Still a lot of detailing but im liking how they are coming out

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More crewmen for my Rogue Trader dynasty. An Eldar outcast, Ex-Hive Ganger, and Storm Trooper House Guard.

>>50653792
Whats the rest of the crew look like?

>>50647385
AWAKEN MY MASTERS

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>>50653792
>>50653821
For those keeping track from earlier in the month, here's my Voidmaster, Arch-Militant and Astropath.

You can see a Kroot mercenary and the Captain in the background.

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>>50653792
Here's a better look at the Captain and the Seneschal.

The Seneschal was the first guy I built for the dynasty as a curiosity after painting up 20 Deathwatch Marines. The last crew member is the Tech-Priest Explorator. I plan on using these guys in my Space Hulk games.

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Post your 'ace custom' Leman Russes. I need some inspiration for my ABG Vanquisher.

This is him right now; I call him the 'Orkin Man'. I built him as insurance against Riptides and other MCs (fookin BUGS). But he feels a bit plain.

What've you seen that's awesome, /wip/?

>>50650102
I alternate between good ones like sleepy cabin, and music I like.

>>50654001
> that name
> Those kill markers
Stop anon I can only get so erect

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Not an entirely unproductive day in the forge, but too late for Secret Santa.

>>50654511
I'm hoping that a wave-3 can be arranged.

>>50654511
forge? you're recasting johnny? would be cool to get my hands on one of those someday, when I get a new job.

>>50654435
Orkin Man's job is very simple. Identify the biggest threat within six feet and ruin its day.

He starts his turn by activating his Coordinated Fire ability, forcing the enemy to reroll whatever cover save they have and take the worst result.

Then he shoots them with his co-axial Heavy Stubber. Even if it doesn't wound, a hit by this weapon (and since Orkin Man is BS4, at least one of the 3 shots will hit) makes the Vanquisher Cannon twin-linked.

Then he chooses his ammo. If the target's a vehicle, he loads a penetrator round: S8AP2 Armourbane., guaranteed to make a hole so big you can fit a fist through it (hence the decals).

If it's a Monstrous Creature or a bunch of TEQ, he goes 'fuck it' and loads a Beast Hunter shell. This piece of ordnance replaces the solid penetrator core with a canister of weapons-grade acid. S8 AP2 3" Blast Instant Death. I don't care how many wounds you have, mister Riptide. Talk shit, GET HIT.

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Plz no bully, was testing emperor's children on the tartaros

>>50654755
>Emperor's Children discovered instagram filters
they're gonna spend eternity now trying to take the perfect selfie

>>50653895
Your Voidmaster looks like a Fixxxer character

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still working on it, but hows this looking?

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Been messing around with casting bits out of greenstuff using oyumaru. Trying to spruce things up a bit without wasting good plastic.

>>50654511
But did you cast the backpack too?

>>50654755
Take a pic without the filter so we can actually see something.

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>>50655337
>But did you cast the backpack too?

No. I don't really need to.

>>50655249
Initially when you showed that model didn't know what to think about it. But now it's looking pretty sweet.

I'm about to start priming and painting some harlequins, should I prime black or white or does it really matter?

>>50655642
It depends on the colors you want to use and the desired intensity.

Duncan has a video on them and he sprayed them black.

>>50655357 has anyone ever posted one of those Mark 6 backpacks next to an old sisters backpack I'm wondering the size difference for the old ones

>>50655689
the only real difference is the huge exhaust ports

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>>50655249
>>50655596
thanks!

>>50655697
Really like the markings on the armor there

>>50655676
his look pretty good, so I guess I won't worry about it. I've always wanted to try priming in white but it's just so much less forgiving.

>>50655697
That is fantastic as a composition. Really good job making the whole thing ooze with character and flavor, thanks to a skillful execution.

I'm thinking of getting an airbrush, I'm just not sure it's worth it. I have a lot of models I haven't base coated and some dark eldar vehicles I'd like to do a fading effect on. I'm just worried about ventilation in my greenhouse, how difficult they are to clean, how the price seems to vary wildly, etc. It seems like a huge project but it would save me a lot of time.

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Glaze anon here, the figure on the left is my most recent mini I spent today painting. It's not great but it's a lot better than what I made 6 months ago (the monk on the right). Going to use her as a Yuan-Ti wizard. Still fucking up a lot, missing some areas due to the poor lighting in my house which is disappointing, but hopefully I'm getting better. Tried NMM on the dagger but it didn't work at all, need to practice that a lot more.

>>50655956

If you're just basecoating and doing a fade just buy two spraycans and do the same shit.

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Want opinions on the ideas I've had for customizing Orkin Man, my ABG command tank.

I'm swapping out the fist decals for skulls (possibly on a red diamond background...the Orkin logo), adding some grubblies to to the rear which you'll see later, and adding a hunter-killer missile rail.

I'd like opinions on the rail's mounting location: on top of the turret, opposite the spotlight. I might mount it laterally in the same area so it doesn't obstruct the commander's view.

Also, thoughts on having some spare tread shoes on the front lower glacis plate as additional armor/recovery gear?

>>50655249
>>50655697
Hey, ain't you on B&C?

I like it, except for the helmet.

All in all, I rate 8/8 ready to be Khornate.

>>50647517
thin your paints bro, the head looks like you painted it by shoving it up the dogs ass. also basecoat in white its a lot easier to work with, especially for a beginner. start off thin and work your way to the shade of color you want

Do you guys scrape off the paint/structure from a finished base where you adhere the mini's feet or bottom, or simply glue it on top and hope it holds?

>>50656561
Add stowage. Makes any model look way better.

Also what models are recommended for an Ordo Chronos Inquisitor?

>>50657029
I've got some stuff on the back I'm doing, you'll see it when it's done.

I'm going ahead with the tracks. The more I think about it the more I like it.

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Painted him as a test for a future nurgle army
Now I just need to do the base

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>>50657068
>bile pouring out of exposed intestines

Jesus, that's hard to even look at. Well done, anon.

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>>50657068

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>>50657108

>>50657037
Yeah the tracks look good. One of the most common places is on the turret, so if you have any ammo crates or anything you could chuck them on there as well.

>>50655249
Fuck yes, impressed that you tackled the polynesian tattoos on the armour, rad af.

I am looking for modular road terrain for my realm of battle board, preferably something with bombed out craters, can anyone point me in the right direction?

>>50650451
I would hit them with a light drybrush of a brighter silver myself, but your photo is also a little underexposed. Cool hazard stripe placement but maybe some on the shoulders pads too?

>>50657255
I must admit I wondered about giving a lighter metal dry brush after the washes.

I think I'll try it on my mk3 squads, since I want the mk4 to stay coherent. I also plan on using some Nuln Oil gloss to get a better shine.

I thought about the hazard stripes on the shoulder pads, but when I started without making tape, doing big as freehand like that was above my skills. Might try it on veterans. For the standard squads I use stripes to identify them, and a wee bit of autism makes me really reluctant to break a good coherent streak.

>>50657068
nice job on the ooze, but those are some thick paints on the skin.

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>>50648506

He's from the pack of 3 exalted sorceror kit.

Lovely kit, theres enough options for no daemon / mutated ... Except for the legs on the one leaping into the air

>>50650772
I got them for £7 each in their Black Friday sale!

>>50647517
Please, watch some tutorials and try again. If this does not help within a month get another hobby.

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>>50657814
Anon. We all started somewhere. All it takes is practice so don't discourage new painters and if you didn't read his original post the most right mini was when he was a lot younger. The two on the left arn't great but they do have some good points.

TLDR: Stop being an asshole.

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>>50656561
i pulled this guy off my shelf since he has a lot of gubbins on him. as for the lateral mount i used it twice that way for mounting machine guns and it looks allright. just keep the top of the body clear so it wont snag on anything. hope it helps.

>>50657951

Telling someone to watch and follow tutorials is not being an asshole, and if after a month of that they haven't improved then they probably won't.

I'm going to be painting my first Riptide tomorrow and I'm not sure how to go about it. What brushes are a good fit? I can't decided between using an XL base for the basecoat or a S layer for that sweet two thin coats effect.

>>50658443
why not both? You have a lot of surface to cover.
So why not use the XL for the initial base and then layer over it to smooth things out?

>>50648321
Dat ultra beakie design is so great, I need one for my raven guard!

>>50654511
I really want to get my hands on one of these some day. He'll make an eccelent raven guard.

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>>50651182
>Blood and Skulls Industry.

>>50658506
Oh, I didn't think of that. Cheers.

What do you reckon is the point where brushes should be retired?

>>50658576
When a brush no longer comes to a nice point, ditch it. At that point it's no longer a reliable tool, and needs to be replaced.
You can try and restore it with a good bath with brush soap and conditioner, but if that doesn't work, then it's time for a new brush.

>>50658576
you could still use them for drybrushing at that point obviously, but don't use it for regular painting at that point. You want control and a brush without a point offers none of that. :)

>>50658605
They're at the point when unless I 'lick' them to a point they're rather flayed and will splay out after a few strokes. I'll keep the damaged shade brush for bases ect but the M and S layer are in the same shape and they're my key brushes.

>>50658672
do you wash them with brush soap so that if any paint gets into the ferrule it gets removed? Because that's usually what nukes the point of a brush. And why it's important to care for your brushes, especially if you're using expensive ones.

>>50658702
Brush soap? And I don't know what a ferrule is but if it's the base of the brush to the point of the handle then no that's clean. They're my brushes from when I started the hobby so I haven't treated them right as I should.

Does licking them to a point ruin brushes?

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>>50657796
>mfw

Always next year, I guess.

>>50658778
>Does licking them to a point ruin brushes?
not really. Depending on the glue that's keeping the hairs together, that may be damaged by saliva, but that won't ruin a brush quickly.

The ferrule is the metal bit where the hairs of your brush connect to the brush itself.
And while the top may seem clean, paint can get in between the hairs, and with brush soap you can keep that clean much more easily.
paint residue in there tends to ruin the point quite easily.

>>50658909
Is brush soap really worth it? For what it costs me I could buy two replacement brushes.

I have noticed that dry little balls of paint seems to coagulate in the brush tips and appear on the model.

Good morning, /wip/! What do you have planned today?

What would you like to get done today?

What's something you'd do if you had the skills/bits/time?

>>50658966
That depends on the cost of your brushes.
If you're using $15-20 a piece W&N brushes, brush soap is a cheap investment that can keep those things going for years, literally.
If you're running cheap $5 brushes, then I can see what you're saying. But expect to replace the brushes on the regular.

My own Windsor and Newton brushes are all at least 5 years old, some more than 10, and they're still doing very well as a result of good brush care.

>>50659006
I live in Aus so good anything is pricey as fuck. I just use regular GW brushes and to their credit they do well I just treat them poorly.

What do I even do with brush soap?

Boyos, do you know any comfy painting channel?
only one I know is doctor faust painting clinic

>>50659074
dip brush in gently, then treat it like you're washing your hair.
Work it in like a shampoo (won't foam much though) then rinse it out.
You'll see a surprising amount of colour in the water coming out of the brushes.
After that they'll be as good as new. :)

It's an easy thing to do.

Also, it's not that bad in terms of cost.
http://www.artscene.com.au/shopping/brush-accessories/brush-and-hand-cleaner/bj-master-brush-cleaning-soap
A little goes a LONG way though, so even if you get the smallest package at $AU 3.90 you'll be good for a long time.

>>50658786
I erred too much and missed out on getting a huge pile of their sci fi dwarves in the flash sale. I'm still kicking myself over it.

>>50655956
Let me try to talk you into it...
>I'm thinking of getting an airbrush, I'm just not sure it's worth it.
Your up front cost can be a bit high (A good airbrush & compressor should run @ $150-$200), but that cost diffracts a bit once you start saving over spray cans. And things like a gradient are totally impossible with a spray can, despite what >>50656489 seems to think.
>I'm just worried about ventilation in my greenhouse,
I'd be more worried about humidity in a greenhouse. as long as you're spraying acrylics and not spraying in a confined space, you'll be fine. Just spray with a dust mask, sweep up the fallout after you're done.
>how difficult they are to clean,
As long as you flush regularly they're not hard to clean.
>how the price seems to vary wildly, etc.
A lot of the price flux you're seeing comes down to 1) What the brush can do and 2) who's making it. If all you plan on doing is base coating, you could pay a lot less and just use a single action, but that cuts a lot of the fun stuff out of the picture (like gradients and panel preshading).

>>50659114
Can it help me salvage a brush? My shade brush is all flayed out and stiff as the wash has dried in there. Same with my L base, paint has dried at the end and has caused the bottom of the brush to be stiff.

Or is the soap just for washing brushes thoroughly.

>>50659177
It can restore a brush that's mucked up, so I would recommend giving it a try, might take more than 1 wash to get all the gunk out, but it certainly won't hurt them.

>>50659140
I hope they do those flail sister things in proper plastic some day, I could use some Sisters of Sigmar for Mordheim.

>cleaning up resin minis and glueing with super glue
>in a well ventilated room
>wearing a dust mask
>still got a headache
What the fug am I doing wrong? Should I just start working outside in the wind?

>>50659369
see
>>50647160

If you can smell the glue from inside your mask, you're doing it wrong.

>>50659369
Well a dust mask isn't doing shit for the superglue fumes that will be what's giving you the headache.

Take a break, drink some water and look at your workflow.
Can you leave the lid on the superglue more?
Can you open a second window to get a throughdraft?
Are you downwind of the throughdraft and getting more fumes blown towards you?
Can you leave the minis you've just assembled further from you while they dry?

>>50659393
So I guess I'll work outside then, thanks

Is it worth still using the cheapo dust masks while outside, or is it gonna add basically nothing when I already have airflow?

Nils anon from stockholm, you present is in sweden already so depending on how good your contry delivery system is you should receive your gift in the coming days.
I hope you like it.

>>50659407
All good ideas I'll try out anon, thanks!

>>50659393
>NOT huffing glue while putting together models

Well, I know who doesn't play DG, that's for sure.

>>50659367
I ended up grabbing some of their plastic-resin Stormrage Veterans in the black friday sale. I aim to use them for a dwarven Imperial Militia army. Their older models have kinda goofy posing but the detail is solid enough.

>>50659408
Cheapo dust masks are a yes when you're filing or sanding, but the solvents that you want to filter out are orders of magnitude smaller than that, so you want ventilation to be what's doing the work for solvents.

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>>50658129
You do know you can give advice without being a total anal aspie about it right?

>>50659437
Aren't you being a total anal aspie giving advice about how to give advice right now? Just curious.

>>50659454
>>50659437
Alright, 40k general, take it outside.

State your piece and be done with it, you've both gone from Artist to Autist

>>50645875
>>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
>http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

One day I'll be well known enough to make it onto the proxy list. One day...

>>50653895

techoviking in space

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Has anyone made a base with a pile or floor of autumn leaves?
What would be a good way to go about that? A pile of fine sand or stacked cork with them just painted on? Actually cutting leaves out of thin cardstock and painting as you stack them?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1roRomkPLQ

Based duncan at it again, what's on your list /wip/?

>>50659676
Some companies sell pre-cut leafs.
I think someone over at /hwg/ did some woodland indians with autumn leafs on the ground and they looked amazing.

There also are stamps to create your own leafs from either paper or from actual dried leafs.

>>50659437
You're not even replying to the person who originally posted it.

>>50647878
IM THE DEVIL I LIKE METAL

>>50659705
Check this coat its fucking THINNED OUT

*ANGERY BRUSH RIFF*

>>50657132
I'm wary about putting stuff on the turret, or at least the front of it. I want to leave those plates bare for decals and kill markers, and I want to avoid increasing the tank's visual profile.

I've got some kitbashing I'm doing on the back, though.

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>>50645955
Working on highlighting the leather, and giving saddles a "broken in" look. After that's done it's metallics then quality control

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Got some paint on the XII Legion guy with the big axe (and one of his squad mates). Added a bit to make the axe look a bit more power-weapon-y.

Just basecoats and wash done, highlighting soon.

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>>50645875

Still pretty new to the Hobby but it sure is a great way to improve patience in everyday life.

>>50659994
>>50660025
>>50660128
Looking good, folks.

Kroot hounds are fun, but by the stone they are annoying. It'd be different if they were useful, i just wish they were a seperate unit.

>>50660025
Smooth, nice white tone too, now weather it!

Axe is killer too.

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Got this guy in the post today, first piece of anything from FW. Anything I should know, is FW stuff especially fragile and/or need a different technique?

>>50660249
Have you worked with Resin before?

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>>50655689
>has anyone ever posted one of those Mark 6 backpacks next to an old sisters backpack I'm wondering the size difference for the old ones

No, but today's a good day as any. The Sisters pack is smaller than all the Space Marine packs.

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>>50660269
Kinda but not really. Painted up some Scorps, but made a complete shitshow of it, so assume I know nothing about resin. New to the whole hobby desu, Eldar are my first army. I'm past the THIN YOUR PAINTS stage but I'm always looking for more advice. Pic related is my Farseer, least-bad model I've done so far.

>>50660249
https://youtu.be/4UNAjik9S80

>>50660351
Ok, Resin breaks more easily than Plastic.
If something is bent, you can put it into hot water and put it back into shape and then drop it into cold water to get it hard again.

Don't breath in any resin dust if you file something, it can cause cancer. If you have to file alot, do it under running water or wear a mask.

You also need superglue to glue it together.

>>50660361
Now I come to think of it Duncan should have been the first place I went to. Herp derp. Thanks.

>>50660378
Damn son, thanks for the tip about the dust. Also, you can make it malleable with just some warm water? Holy shit that sounds like it'll snap to a light breeze.

I want to make a regimental base for my 36 infantry, but I'm afraid carboard will warp and bend once painted, clued and flocked. Anyway to prevent this?

>>50660507
Just use mdf

>>50660507
mdf or plasticcard.

>>50659517
Tell us about your products then.

>>50659676
do you have birch trees nearby? get a few seed pods and use those.
You can also get cut paper, but it's gonna be a bit more expensive.

>>50659696
>>50661189
I was trying to avoid spending money on prefabricated things, just because I'm short on cash and looking to improve my odd crafting abilities.
I suppose dead leaf material won't wilt or degrade over time after it's been coated in primer and paint?

>>50661246
>I suppose dead leaf material won't wilt or degrade over time after it's been coated in primer and paint?

I don't think so.

Glasgow anon your package should be going out today, if the flash flooding lets up a bit. It's all put together for you

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>>50661246
Like anything else, wood, moss or whatever else you could be using for basing you have to make sure it's dry.
Then it'll last forever.

Here's a picture of unpainted ones. If you want more color just put a bit of water and the color of your choice (greens or red and yellows for example) with a bit of water into a container and shake the bejeezus out of it.
Then dry the leaves again of course.

What greens do 30k Death Guard players use for their shoulder pads?

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>>50647590
>>50656761
Thanks, will work on it. They were basecoated in white btw. The dogs ass one was done about a decade ago, unless you were referring to all three

>>50657814
o-ok, its not like these are my first models done in years h-heh ;_;

Don't suppose you know any good tips/tutorials? Watched a bit of le nuln oil man so far.

Kent anon, I've got your package all together, I just need to secure them and get them to the post. Hope you enjoy

>>50662232
Cloth bits are pretty gud btw

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SQUAWK

For the Crimson King

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>>50662491
For Stalin!

>>50661246
Maybe you could find a leaf hole punch

>>50662491
Poor guy is just looking for a twink qt 3.14 Kroot waifu to lay some eggs with.

>>50659676
http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/101-punches

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>>50662491
Do YoU KnOw WhO I Am?

>>50654001
Not mine but this thread is wonderful inspiration.

http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?399703-Guderian-412th-Imperial-guard-army

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>>50662517

>>50645875
So i just got my spell crow heads. Glad i didnt order more. They look good byit are undersized. Abnyone have experience with their pauldrons?

Secret santa from Cape Verde to Sweden!
http://imgur.com/a/glQJB
This gift is wayyy nicer than the one i sent... boy!

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>>50663663
>Someone printed my shitty Santa Duncan pic I made with my 0 paint skills

A couple of days ago I posted on here about how I'd made my first order from Forgeworld and my model - a warhound titan with plasma blastgun and vmb - had arrived with what I thought to be a lot of damage and mess, so I asked if I should contact them or do my best to fix it as I wasn't sure if this was normal or not. Cut to today, well:

>Thanks for sending those through I can see the defects you speak of and have decided to order up your full order to work through the pieces as we go through the images, some look to be repairable but due to the extent of the issues its best just to replace the kit in it entirety .
>Ill have the kit ordered to my desk first for double checking then if all is good I will ship the kit out to your address.
>What you can do in the mean time is work on the kit you have for a wreck or exploded version of the kit as an awesome in game carnage marker for when the kit does (eventually) blow up you'll have the most epic of wreck markers

They're sending me a whole new warhound which is incredible, I'd heard they had stellar customer service but that's crazy. I like the idea of what he suggested and make a cool blast marker but I have no idea where to start - whats left when a warhound goes boom? I've read titanicus but that mostly talked about the effects on the larger titans. I'm still not sure if I should make a nice destroyed one or salvage what I can and have a cripple titan.

>>50663730

With prices like that they really can't afford to have less than stellar customer service, but it still warms your heart to hear about.

It depends on how wrecked you want it to be- in a full plasma reactor explosion you might have large shrapnel, but it could also be brought to its knees by ursus claws without major internal damage (See Betrayer by Aaron Dembski-Bowden) with the only real damage being to the crew compartment.

>>50663730
We told you FW and GW customer service was top notch.

As to your question, it depends, which can be good or not depending or your imagination.

A Titan can be considered killed just with its cockpit blown since it won't be usable anymore.

But if the plasma reactor gets shot and goes on overdrive, you might find bits of legs and shoulders if you're lucky, since it has a tendency to go supernova and just burn the whole thing down.

Surely you can find examples of terrain made with a warhound kit.
You can do it several ways. Either it got toppled off because of too much damage on the superstructure or the cockpit is dead, i.e. it is salvageable, or you use it for several pieces of terrain, as if it blew all over the place, with some parts melted, shot, explodd, burnt, etc.

>>50657951
Unrelated but may I have source for this purple elf?

>>50660328
Mad fucking useful, but now I know that it's going to be tougher to convert one with modern materials. I wish Z got back to me when I requested an order quote.

>>50659676
>>50663730
> whats left when a warhound goes boom?

They're described as some sort of plasma reactor (which makes me think some sort of fusion device); if so, you'd have quite a bit left. Theoretically, toroid reactors don't explode when breached; they just vent hot plasma all over the place and then stop working. A burnt out hull with bits of molten debris from the inside would be plausible.

>>50663730

I say don't just make it a blast marker, turn it into a whole piece of terrain. The head is a command bunker, piles of sandbags between each scattered piece of the wreckage, the fallen guns form the roof of a crude bunker and so on.

>>50663730
>build the warhound upper torso and head
>take torso outside
>smash it with a hammer once, from the top of the carapace
>damage the head enough so it looks like a explosion has come from the inside of the cockpit
>partly re-assemble the now in pieces body, making it look as if it has had a catastrophic reactor meltdown
>build a weapon arm and attach it
There you go.

>>50663730
I'd make it into several terrain pieces like it exploded desu. Then you could use it as a wreck marker, or as terrain in a normal game. It's hard to have too much terrain, and partially buried/wrecked/exploded titan parts would be pretty cool.
Glad you got it sorted with customer service.

>>50663954
Titans are generally described as going nova when the core is breached, so they're not standard torus reactors, a bit more oomph than that.

>>50663934
>Unrelated but may I have source for this purple elf?
http://owarinoseraph.wikia.com/wiki/Lacus_Welt
That's the character according to Google, seems to match her image.

>>50663730
The biggest reason beyond that is that there's simply nothing they can do internally to recycle the material. Even if there were, there'd be shipping costs for either them or the customer to return the defect product.

They just have a great attitude about it when it comes to dealing with such situations.

GW Main will also do similar, though obviously it happens less often due to the hard-to-fuckup plastic injection molding process. (And even though they can recycle plastic kits, they don't ask for returns since shipping outweighs it.)

>>50663865
>>50663870
>>50663954
>>50663956
>>50663997
>>50664010

I'm liking these ideas, thanks guys, I need to have a long hard think and do some planning. I intend to get a warlord titan at some point in the future so I may save it until then, have it stomping on it or something similar. I'm wondering if I can assemble the warhound in such a way using pins and magnets that I can alternate between using it as various bits of scenery and maybe an actual model.

>>50664057
>The biggest reason beyond that is that there's simply nothing they can do internally to recycle the material.

Why is that? I asked the local GW manager and he was explaining that they can recycle plastic but forgeworld can't with resin, he didn't know why either.

>>50664111
Unless I'm wrong, resin is mixed and cast without heat, so unless you can reverse the chemical reaction (and it might be possible, but it's probably cheaper to just buy more resin) you can't exactly reuse resin.

>>50664099
Have it as a homebrew terrain piece. Brought down by a large Railgun shot, or obvious Tyranid/Daemon claw marks, then have smaller units on a wild ruleset(ie. Attacks anything around it, on a 6 it sends 3 guys in a random direction)
Perhaps the legs and arms are non-functioning, but the weapon systems are active enough to fire, if you got there first.

You could have it be a Nurgling/Genestealer/Kroot nest, or drones could still be near it, or even malfunctioning Servitors, something. Might as well put some time, effort and a lil $ into it while you're at it.

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Not really happy with the armour. What could I have done to made it more defined?

>>50664111

In order to become hard, Resin undergoes a 'curing' process. I wont get into too much chemestry, but it is essentially a chemical reaction. It is also pretty much one way. You cannot get the materials you started with out of cured resin. at least not very easily

On the other hand, plastic achieves its form simply from cooling off after being melted. Injection molded plastics are melted down into a liquid state before being forced into the mold. There it is cooled inside and takes on a solid form. As such, you could reasonable melt down any existing plastic figures for recasting if you wanted.

>>50664111
polystyrene plastic can be turned back into granulate (the base material for HIPS, just add heat and air).
Resin is a one-way chemical reaction, it can not be reversed, realistically speaking.
Breaking it down to its constituent atoms and rebuilding the starting components from there is a bit beyond our tech at present.

>>50645971

They look great, but I'm not a fan of the bases. Had this been for any other game, they would have rocked, but now it just looks like they decided to play on the most uneven, uncut, mud stain they could come across.

hi guys, i might be a bit late in the thread, but is there a painting guide on "paper" of Archaon?

Apart from the youtube video. The local GW redshirt said he preferred the book form of painting guide about archaon. I didnt believe him and ill stick to based duncans tutorial, bt it had me wondering if there was a book form guide.

Can someone help this anon out?

>>50664205

Better edge highlighting mostly. And when painting gold, you want to go over the edges with a very fine line of bright silver, due to how light reflects off of gold.

>>50646360

>Those cumstains

Been going solo for a while then anon?

>>50664239

I found out with help of the power of the internet. I suppose it is in the Everchosen painting guide. I can't find it in the folders of the links in P's post. Does anyone have it of have i misslooked in the folders?

>>50647040

Perhaps it just sounds better to have managed to improve so much in "only" 6 years. As anyone probably could improve a hell of a lot in 12 years of daily practicing and dedication.

Anyone got some tips for how to paint darker color schemes? Something like Dark Browns or Greens.

>>50663954
Or just like do the best you can with it and have a second full warhound for games. You'll know it will never be as good as the replacement, but this one isn't a show piece, just a game piece.

Alternatively, see it to an ork player to loot or a chaos player to fill with greenstuff mutation over the bad areas.

>>50664336
I need more than this anon, because otherwise I will tell you to apply dark brown paint to the model and shade and highlight it.

What are you painting?
Are you doing a brown and green colour scheme, or only one of those?

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few knights coming up with blurry phone camera.
i bought these things 8 months ago and finally got around slapping some paint onto them.

>>50664270
wheredoyouthinkweare.avi

>>50664398
Allow me to clarify then, I have three things going on, all of which involve these two colors:

1. Testing a tau scheme that combines brown and green.

2. Planning a fantasy model with dark brown trousers, think kind of chocolaty

3. I have a different fantasy mini that I'd like to give a dark green color to it's robes.

Not 100% certain on shades, so that's why I wanted more general tips.

>>50664515

>Majin Buu down by their feet

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Does this seem good enough for protection from solvents?
3M Chemical Valved Respirator

>>50664515
I think the verdigris could do with a lot of work, at the moment it just looks like it's paint rather than actual weathering.
The white looks really smooth though, nice job.

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>>50664515

That Nihilakh... is that you done with it or are you going over the metals again?

>>50664558

Are the tau going to be a more sandy brown and camo green? If so, you could try to colour match to multicam, that feels quite tau.

Your fantasy model sounds quite straightforward- in GW paints you're basing with mournfang and shading with agrax, and for highlights either follow the GW chart or add beige to Mournfang.

Dark green- rich or drab? If rich, I recommend caliban-warpstone-moot, which is what I used on pic related.

>>50664696
my first time with this weird new paint, i was planning to smooth it out with bronze drybrush and something else if that doesnt cut it.
thanks for the comment

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Finished

>>50664765
My advice for it is to thin it with medium and build it up in your recesses slowly, it's definitely too thick out of the pot.

>>50664833
impressive.

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>>50664833
Bloody lovely.

Since you love big pieces, ever thought about doing the FW Imperial Space Marine?

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>>50664654

I doubt it, but read the label to be sure. I just bought the cheap 3M one that looks like a cool spraypainter's' mask. Says it's pretty much good for all fumes that aren't basically chemical bioweapons so you know it's okay for spraypaint.

You really don't want to mess around with fumes, especially from solvents, and there's no way that little cloth mask is going to give you a proper seal, unlike an actual spray mask with rubber edges.

It's not too expensive, lasts a long time, and comes with the filters. When you see how discolored they get after a couple uses you will be glad you bought a real mask with filters.

>>50657767
sucks, that's the one thing I dislike the most about that set, those legs/that pose is fucking awful

>>50664833
Very nicely done.

I think from a compositional pov it would be stronger if the cross on his chest and the leather would be less saturated. The blood on his face would draw more attention then.

Very well painted though, I like how much attention you put into getting the textures of the different materials. Two thumbs up from me.

>>50665424
I love the pose dude looks dapper

Strolling along sees a loyalist on his left and just goes zap before tittering to himself about Tzeentch

Also, the legs are just walking forward the box has like 10arms to choose from. Sorry the only pose you lik is an awkewar Half squat

>>50664948
That's a big guy

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Hey /wip/! Made this bad boy a while ago now. I want to paint him in a vivid color scheme. Any ideas?

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>>50665506

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>>50665570

>>50665570

Soul Drinkers bright purple or shining metallic purple

>>50665506
No, I mean the floating legs-akimbo one. I may have misunderstood your earlier post

>>50665570
Sorry for the size. My mobil camera is a bitch

>>50665570
Aren't GK librarians just silver like the rest of them? You could do a blue cloak/tabard or something

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>>50665662
Yes, but I want to try an alternative scheme, maybe for the whole army afterwards. I was inspired by this image, I love how is painted. And no, I´m not a troll, I just happen to love the paint work.

>>50665562
FOR YOUUUUUUUUU

>>50665615
I´m not really sure about purple. It could be cool an obsidian effect, tho.

>>50660328
Those first ed metal backpacks are hard to find, they gave a nicer shape than the plastic ones. I have about 50 rogue trader marines and almost no backpacks, most second hand models are sold without backpacks. One day I'll get around to recasting the few I have.

>>50665720
I dont think its even painted like that, they just took the gw picture and messed with the saturation or something of the colors.

>>50660328

In case you were curious, there is a newer version of the original RT backpack made in 2011 5th Edition for Forge World models with mark V and VI armor.

The 2nd edition backpack is Mk IV armor and has a newer 5E resin version and a 7E plastic version from Betrayal at Calth and certain boxes like Blood Angel Tactical Squad.

It's really interesting how GW/FW recycles old designs or shifts backpack marks around as new sculpts are thought up.

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>watching Nuln man effortlessly painting his models all lovely
>tfw I keep on having to strip my models back down because I keep fucking it up
I'm trying Duncan, lend me your magic pls.

>>50666088
>I keep on having to strip my models back down because I keep fucking it up
Repeating the same thing over and over is gonna be frustrating. In my experience you tend to learn most by doing something completely new.
Different model, different shapes, different textures, different colors.

Best way to learn is to analyze what is dissatisfactory about the old models and specifically try to improve on that.

So before you throw your models into the paint stripper you need to take a long hard look at them. Or maybe show them to somebody else and get feedback first.

>>50666088

Firstly, it gets easier every time you do it.

Secondly, if you haven't painted every model you own, then don't strip, and even if you do, keep something as a reminder of what it looked like last time, or a week/month/year ago.

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>>50664833
Absolutely awesome. Love the leather and cloth. Very nice metals. Maybe a bit too pale on the skintone? Anyway very good job.

>>50666088

Duncan is bullshit. He says things like "first we'll apply a basecoat of Leadbelcher" then magically swipes the model a few times with ag giant brush and magically gets a smooth coat of silver.

I know for a fact that if I do the exact same thing as he does, I'd end up with either a streaky or globby mess. He has to have some sort of supernatural power.

>>50666321
It's really pale, though the expression and situation kind of justify it. Thanks!

>>50665885
Now that you say it... Still, I´m sure that is an effect that can be done.

Do you guys feel comfier leaping between projects and working on them a bit at a time, or do you prefer to start and finish a project before starting the next?

Kentucky anon, your Secret Santa package is going out tomorrow. I'm just putting finishing touches on it now. It's coming from Virginia so it will be there before Christmas!

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So I got Lost Patrol for Christmas!

It's my second ever box; I'm about halfway through Dark Vengeance. I didn't want to spend a lot of money on paints until I had somewhat of an idea on how to use them, so I'm currently using some Apple Barrel acrylics because they're 50 cents a bottle at Walmart.

This is where I'm at. They look pretty shitty, but I'm proud of them.

>>50666482
If I feel a wave of existential dread sweeping over me I tend to buy new things to cheer myself up.
Then I put them on the pile of unfinished ideas next to the dead games I never got to play not WHFB.
That usually gets me down again and I end up doing nothing.
I'm currently only sitting a few feet away from my workbench, but I haven't gotten around to set it up after moving two weeks ago.

I used to believe you should finish what you start. Now I'm convinced the only way to get anything finished at all is to work on what you feel like at any given time. Anything else will just suck the motivation out of you.

>>50666482
I prefer to finish each project before starting another one. Otherwise my mind and desk become cluttered.

>>50666697
Considering you're using dime store paint, I'd say that those models are something to be proud of, anon. They look good.

>>50666710
Routine is best.
1 hour of painting every night will get you to levels and amount of work done you couldn't imagine.

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Which do you guys think looks better? I want to paint a BA army so I decided to look up one of Ducan's Tutorial for some help. Not sure which method I want to go with but am leaning with dry brushing as I like how the wash darkens the crevices.

>>50666697

Go buy real paints and nice brushes then, nice work anon.

>>50666710
>If I feel a wave of existential dread sweeping over me I tend to buy new things to cheer myself up.

This was me during my degree, and I'm only now working through the backlog. because I'm finally able to relax. The minis don't fix it.

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>>50666697
>managing that with shitty paint
>meanwhile I'm making abominations out of half-decent paint
I really am not cut out for this.

You have a talent anon, keep at it!

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>>50664654
Nope. Won't protect from solvent fumes at all, just particulates. You're looking for a face mask that uses NIOSH black cartriges (organic solvents)

>>50666856

Practice makes perfect anon, keep at it.