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Work in Progress General - WIP

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Thread replies: 336
Thread images: 98

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Countdown to PMIP (Primaris Marines In Progress) T-minus 7 days edition (also WIP)

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Possession of this Galaxy is Mankind's birthright
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QdnDO5aCM4

>Previous Threads:
>>53707784
>>53682315
>>53652424
>>53611056
>>53581844
>>
wtf someone actually made a new thread before the old one died
>>
How are Vallejo paints?
>>
>>53731942
depends on what you want to know.

All their ranges are at least competent at what you need them to do.
Model Color is a more muted, "realistic" range, while Game Color has stronger, bolder colours.

Some paints are better at specific things than others, for instance the Model Air Metallic paints are really nice, the Model Color metallics not so much.

Though for a cool finish Vallejo Metal Color is really nice, though that range is still fairly limited.
>>
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WIP techpriest
>>
>>53732051
Mostly how they stack against Citadel paints. From my understanding VGC tries to emulates Citadel's color range. I'd like to see two minis painted with analogous colors but can't seem to find any.
>>
>>53732473
Game Color is emulating the previous series of GW paints, not the current one.
Vallejo didn't redo their range when GW switched manufacturers.
>>
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>>53732277
Some kitbashed inquisition henchmen, ganger, noble & vet.
Fuck knows if i'd ever use them but I just fancied messing around a bit in my bitz box
>>
>>53732582
In that case since I only have old GW paints I should go VGC to get mostly the same colors?
>>
>>53732277
>>53732594
trying to be blanch/10
>>
>>53732277
please tell me that's grey primer and you're not painting on bare plastic
please
>>
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>too hot to paint
>go to the shop to buy a kit to occupy my weekend instead
>come home and find out my glue's gone dry
just one of those fuckin' days
>>
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I have a bit of an usual request, I'm painting a Kastelan as they've really grown on me.

I wanted to paint some kind of ... "Targeting Matrix" in his view face monitor

Anyone with any skill care to have a go at something? I just can't think of anything that'd look good. Appreciate any help, thanks.
>>
>>53733053
a dozen green stuff bumps you paint up like gems?
>>
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I've finished my first nurgle marauder, I reckon he'd look alright standing with my Blight kings when I get them done.
>>
>>53732876
Err neither? I had the body already partially painted but couldn't decide what to add. Only just now added the rest, will basecoat the plastic first, don't worry.
>>
>>53733445
oh. carry on, then
>>
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>>53733053
>>
>>53733379
Where's the upper body from?
>>
>>53733499
Crypt Horror kit with arms from flagellants and a cultist
>>
>>53732277
>>53732594
>>53733379
all of them look nice
>>
>>53733483

Ooh that looks kinda cool
>>
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I apologize for the shit photo, but finally finished up this Magos.

First time working with Martian Ironearth. Not sure I like it. Should probably have added something else to break up the monotony.
>>
>>53733671
Looks pretty good anon, maybe some bigger rocks of the same colour?
I would also add a bit of red dust on the lower half f the model itself, but it'sd matter of taste.
>>
>>53733671
The colour looks a little flat on the base, maybe just a quick wash of something on it might help?
Otherwise he's looking really good, nice work
>>
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Show your progress.

The two on the left are the first minis I have ever painted a year back. The two on the right are my most recent ones.

Share what you got.
>>
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>>53733791
>>53733841
Thanks. I think a wash is a good idea, I'll try that.
And in the future I'll definitely be adding something to break up the base. I've got some winter grass tufts here - think that would work? Could go a little ways towards doing something about all that red. I'm just worried that something like that could grow on a surface like that.
>>
>>53733671
A wash or a drybrush in a lighter color might help out a lot in breaking the base up.
>>
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How'd I do?
>>
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>knock over one of your bitz boxes
>it's the one with the sprue shavings and little details like bolts that you cut off
>no vacuum cleaner for at least a week
>>
>>53733483
>>53733562
But extremely difficult. The amount of brush control you'll need would be staggering.
>>
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>>53734036
>>
>>53734036
Looks pretty good, might want to use some shades though.
2nd company's my favourite
>>
>>53734098
Hardwood/tile, short pile, or long pile?

If hardwood/tile, take a laser pointer or a flashlight and sweep it across the ground. It'll hit any small objects and light them up. For really tiny objects you might need to use a mirror to get the beam parallel to the ground.

Short pile, take a roll of packing tape and run it along the carpet. It might take a few passes but you'll find everything. Alternatively, put a pair of pantyhose over your vacuum cleaner's tube and use that to suck up bits.

Long pile, you're fucked.
>>
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Working on a questor knight. Although is armor is of new bronze, his helmet is a rusty relic and shield if of old, cracked marble. His sword is of shimmering obsidian. Anyway, I'm hoping the painting reflects these effects. Is there any way I can improve?
>>
>>53734036
Needs to be mor thicc
>>
>>53734036

Nice red OSL on the eyes, that's a highly advanced technique.
>>
>>53734238
technique looks good but those colours clash too much i feel
>>
>>53734238
I agree with >>53734316, right now it kinda looks like a statue
>>
>>53734378
Actually that's what I'm going for. He's supposed to emulate a statue and stay unmoving until he's activated to kill and slaughter.
>>
>>53734428
Well then, good work!
>>
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Done with the base coat (except the vexilla pole and device atop it) and washes. Onwards to highlights!
>>
>>53733988
So I did a wash with agrax, then drybrushed with Bugmans Glow and Cadian Fleshtone, and it looks leagues better.

Now on to the 10 Skitarri and the Dunecrawler.
>>
>>53734460

I just burned out re-layering my basecoat because I was too lazy to do the washes neatly. I kept telling myself "you should slow down with these washes or you will regret it, like always" but then I was like "nah fuck that" and slopped the wash into the crevices, and now I have to basically re-basecoat the whole model again except for the washed crevices, and it's on the Tartaros Terminator legs with all the crevices and armor plating levels that's burning me out.

So basically what I'm trying to say is, did you do careful pin washes, or did you just slop on the wash and re-layer yellow?
>>
>>53732594
where do you get the helmet under the arm arm.
>>
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Kinda shit photo, but hey, I accomplished something today.

Yes, the one on the left has highlights.
>>
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Still more to go, but getting there
>>
>>53735411
Looking very nice, even with what you've got now. I'd personally have done the jaw a separate color from the rest of the face (and the face could use a little more in the way of spot color in general), but the effect looks quite good.
>>
>>53735468
My wife also wanted the jaw metallic, I might oblige still havent decided
>>
>>53735562
>my wife

Is everyone who seems to paint really well married? It's a common trend I've noticed.
>>
>>53735641
Both activities imply a lot of patience and time I guess
>>
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>>53733922
My first sergeant vs my most recent. I'm happy with him, except for the face.
>>
>>53735641
>implying that's a good paintjob
>implying people who can't even get their shit together enough to paint properly are going to be able to land a spouse
>>
>>53734851
Its from the Empire Knights box
>>
I'm wanting to do a custom tyranid strain, how does the pale grey like the space wolves armor work for an arctic themed tyranids army?
>>
I build a lot of terrain for my FLGS.

I tell them I do it because I like to play on decent terrain.

I think the real reason I do it is because when I do a good job, they all thank me and tell me I'm good at it.

No one else in my life does that.
>>
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Black Templar truescale attempt. First time for me working with greenstuff. Going pretty well so far.

Using Termi legs, enlarging the torso a bit, added some additional greenstuff for extra height. Small base is only used for a proper comparison with the scouts.
I will add some plasticard to the feet, to gain an additional millimeter or so.

Not sure if I am happy with the standard shoulderpads though. All in all the proportions seem reasonable but I think I will at least try the terminator shoulder pads with the next one and see what looks better.
>>
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>>53735641
Chicks really do dig well-painted minis. I wouldn't say it quite as a blanket statement but most women enjoy some variety of art and craft, and they appreciate the effort and skill involved. I'm not even remotely talented at painting but I'm minimally viable and the other half loves my work. I showed her pic related as a sort of "gauge her reaction" and she was actually impressed at the skill rather than incensed at the lewdness.
>inb4 miniature tits on a blue board are grounds for PROMOTIONS
>>
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>>53735871
Looks kind of like this
>>
>>53735976

LOOK AT THAT WOOD GRAIN
>>
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>bought a clip-on macro lens to potentially improve mini closeups
>it has too much macro
>>
Is there any good ways to paint freckles on 28mm? I accidently a ginger and she needs freckles.
>>
>>53736067
no.
>>
>>53735641
>Is everyone who seems to paint really well married?
No.
>>
>>53735976
Source on the piece so I can admire the artist's other works?
>>
>>53735871
Just no.

Shins are insanely short and out of proportion with the thighs, you've already got tiny head and hands syndrome and you want to make it even bigger.

Get over your manlet syndrome or buy some fucking Primaris.
>>
>>53736067
Same way you sponge paint chips, just a single dab on each cheek and STOP. Do a few practise runs on a base painted the same flesh tone to get your freckle colour and paint load right.
>>
>>53735871
I think it might be better if you extend the kneegaurds up
>>
>>53736161
Some rando on the 'Eavier Metal facebook page. Don't go there unless you want to hate your own work more than you already do.
>>
>>53736284
>go there
>first post, 100% scratch sculpted green stuff Ninja Turtles diorama

IT'S NOT FAIR THEY SHOULD GIVE US LIKE 1% OF THEIR SKILL

THIS IS LIKE WATCHING BILLIONAIRES WASTE MONEY WHILE LIVING IN A SHACK
>>
>>53736293
>"WIP, still lots to do"
>>
>>53736293
>>53736312
YOU WERE WARNED
>>
>>53736284
>Airbrushed Metal

You know I'm not saying airbrushes are cheating or don't take skill, but you have to wonder why 100% of the best painters use them.
>>
>>53736339
They're a tool you sorely miss from your repertoire if you don't have them. Nothing on earth beats an airbrushed enamel primer; it cures hard as stone and won't obscure even the most insane details. I'm just dipping my toes into techniques like preshading after decades of airbrushing my basecoats and the idea of rattle cans of Chaos Black still turns my stomach. I've no doubts that people have mastered that technique but I'd be losing my shit the entire time over the lack of control and resisting the urge to put the nozzle into little nooks to ensure they've got good coverage.
>>
>>53736503
>using enamels/lacquers without an airbrush

Do people actually do this? Those poor bastards.
>>
>>53736616
you can totally do this with the right thinner/cleaner you tard. people have been doing it with model cars for ages
>>
>>53736678
>having to buy random toxic thinners and use shitty synthetic brushes

No thanks.

>for ages
>implying anyone does it these days

We used to hunt with sticks and stones and made cave paintings with animal feces, doesn't mean it's good.
>>
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>>53736706
nigga are you fucking stupid or something? you dont need shitty brushes if you airbrush the enamel. Also, just buy a fucking respirator, you should have one anyways, theyre under $40
>>
>>53736312
I assume he means drilling that barrel. What a fucking hack.
>>
>>53736799
>you dont need shitty brushes if you airbrush the enamel

...
>>
>>53736799
>>53736678
>without an airbrush
>WITHOUT

>you dont need shitty brushes if you airbrush
>without an airbrush
>WITHOUT
>>
Are there any tips for edge highlighting?
I'm not great at painting anyway, but doing up some Deldar and I seem to be hitting the bottom part better than the top. Just awful at it.
>>
>>53736920
Hold your brush at an angle and hit the edges with the side of your bristles.
>>
>>53736920
Always try using the side of the brush. Never the tip. Don't be afraid to move the model every which way to get where you need to. It doesn't need the be the center of the brush, either- so long as it's on the side you should be alright.
>>
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I'm keen to try out SW:A. Here's some BT neophytes I'm working on for that.

Scout heads are fucking garbage and BT can thematically get away with the Bretonnian errant knight hats. Have 12 or so but all are just at similar head and hand swap stages.

Need to attempt some tabards in GS on a couple of them.

Thoughts on where I can take this other than just using the BT sprue? I will accessorize with that but keen for some other ideas. I've got a few scrolls and what not from the WHF flagellants box that are begging to be used here too.
>>
>>53735641
>more older people are married
>more older people are experienced painters
>>
Any anons that use a Raphael 8404 brush: My paint doesn't seem to flow down to the tip with it. I didn't have the same issue with my W&N brushes, but they didn't hold a point for shit; the 8404 holds a perfect point, but runs out of paint super fast, because it all stays further up the brush. Any advice to alleviate this?
>>
>>53735861
Anon, that's... I'm sorry. We're here! Or there's always /adv/, the "Get it off your chest" threads are good. Do you need help?

Maybe you could show us some of your pieces?
>>
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Done finally
>>
>>53737114
Great, now what is it?
>>
>>53737114
The impact marks are top shelf.
I'd happily play on that.
>>
Do any of you have a PDF of the how to paint burning of prospero?
>>
>>53737155
looks to be some plywood with a bit of mold growing on it.
>>
>>53736706
>this pleb discounting an entire range based on malformed opinions
Ayy lmao.

You are NEVER going to match the pigment saturation you get with enamels, acrylics are more practical but if I want bright scratches on metal I reach for Humbrol #11 because it's just flat out better than any acrylic.

Adam Savage went to the trouble of spraying his T-101 with copper paint (actual copper in a conductive medium) so it could be electroplated with chrome like the original props were. You'd paint it Leadbelcher and say "fuck it, good enough"
>>
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>>53737155
You've never seen a Realm of Battle set have you?
>>
>>53737370
T-800* FUCK
>>
>>53734036
you should av done a spray of retributor armor (tm) before applying your base
>>
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>>53737384
>>
Looks like I'm waiting a week and a half for my daemonettes to get here because of some shipping trouble.

Any of you Anons got Slaanesh stuff to show off, or stories or tips?
>>
>>53737114
Looks pretty nice what army will vanquish their foes on there?
>>
>>53735861
That's nice of you Anon glad you have a creative outlet that is satisfying as such!
>>
>>53734238
Looks like terracotta. Not what you were trying to do but I think it looks great.
>>
>>53737384
>>53737114
why did they ever put all those stupid skulls in all the cracks?
>>
First swing at painting minis. I realized after I took this picture that I had missed a bit on some of the models and need to do them again.
>>
>>53736293
Fuck off Sanders, just practice more. There's tutorials from world class painters available for free online.
>>
>>53737990
See >>53737442
>>
Guard player here, how many conscripts would you recommend I own?

I currently have 81 infantry models. with the sergeants, a whole battlefoam tray. I've never once run all of it, being a fan of the semi-mechanized and heavy weapons approach in 7th.

Tempted to bring it up to 124 so I can run 2 50's and 4 heavy weapon infantry squads.
>>
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An anon posted his Word Bearers Rhino and Land Raider a few weeks back and it looked amazing. It had a chapel attached to the top with a Chaplin in the front. It looked so good that now I want to try and make my Blood Angels Rhinos pop out more and look as if the crew really take the time to decorate their vehicles to look unique.

Any suggestions? I am sorta tempted to try and paint Sanguinius on the top hatch but I have no experience with actual painting.
>>
Any one got any suggestions for how to make a Chaos marine psyker? They only sell thousand sons ones now.
>>
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>>53738361
If you can't draw competently with pencil and paper you're going to really struggle with a paint brush. Maybe look into transfers. FW will be releasing some BA stuff soon-ish but it's not that hard to make your own.
>>
I want to get into tabletop miniatures but i have no idea what supplies I need to start painting

do i need an airbrush?
a magnifying glass?
brushes?
do i only buy the paints i need or do i buy in sets?
what does washing mean?
how do i thin paints?
do i need any prior experience?

im probably going to be getting into either 40k or warmahordes
>>
>>53738472
Transfers were an idea. I can actually draw competently I just have no experience with painting anything not a mini.

Your pic is awesome however and I want that dreadnought.
>>
>>53738516
Nippers
Knife
Cheap set of brushes (army painter do a reasonable set)
Paints

That's all you need. Don't go beyond that.

Washes are very thin paints which are designed to add shade to a model quickly. You paint them all over, they run into the lower areas and make them darker.

Thin paints with water, aim for a milk consistency.

No, no experience needed.
>>
>>53738587
whats the use of the nippers and the knife?
>>
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Just finished this fag, I think
>>
>>53738608
Models come on sprues, you have to clip them off. Then you have to clean up the mold lines where they put two huge metal slabs together and filled them full of plastic to make the model.
>>
>>53738608
For despruing and cleaning the mold lines off your model before you paint it. A small modeling file (or files) helps too.
>>
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>>53733922

I got this bitsbox kitbash im pretty proud of

Id show older models but im phoneposting
>>
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Working on a test scheme for a tzeentchian renegades and heretics army any suggestions/criticism
>>
>>53738612
His base looks unfinished (especially the CSM).
>>
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>>53738612
>>
>>53738697
>>
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>>53738697
Sorry about the bad photo
>>
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testing a new formula for me green skin.
proppa orky or mukkin about?
>>
>>53738746
It'z propa orky
>>
Today I came across the inspiration to turn a Knight Venator in to a Wonder Woman inspired Amazon (if not Diana herself) performing the shield jump maneuver as seen in the movie.

Does anyone have any good suggestions for a torso and head piece that would work well? I'm considering either having her jumping off of a rock or even another model with a shield.
>>
>>53738516
Dont forget a good set of miniature files or fine grain sandpaper.
A tiny hand drill for barrels.
Green stuff to cover gaps.
Varnish (gloss or matte depending on your shiny preference)
Primer spray to cover the base model
>>
>>53738361
He just posted some stuff in the last thread.

>>53738746
Job's a good 'un, boss.
>>
>>53738931
>what are things to get later when you're confident you want to really invest and improve
>>
>>53738975
fuck no they arent. Removing mold lines properly is day one shit, and once your done youll want to varnish. Greenstuff is handy for finecast or metal. all of that shit is basic newb shit you idiot
>>
>>53738975
idk, ive only started recently and i decided to get all the parts right away.

These minis are too expensive for me to build/paint without all the help i can get.

I even skipped some parts early on and immediately ran into issues. Like sprue marks because i didnt have a good sanding tool to smooth shit out or details i couldnt cover cause i went with a cheaper set of brushes.
>>
>>53739064
Just use the back of a hobby knife to remove mold lines you dip. Most people do not varnish their shit, most don't use greenstuff either. When I got into the hobby, next to no one used any of that shit. Most didn't drill either, they just painted the black there. The anon just said "I'm new, what do I need to start?", and what >>53738587 posted is what someone needs to start. A beginner doesn't need all that bullshit because there's a chance they wont even stick around, and most normal human beings don't like investing into a bunch of tools for building toy soldiers when they don't even know if they're really going to stick with it.
>>
Is it true that you shouldn't aim for full coverage when spraying with rattlecan primer?
>>
>>53739160


>why the fuck would I spend like $5 and use the proper tool when I can use the wrong thing and hopefully cut my fucking hand off


>why would I take and extra 45 seconds and $4 to make sure my mini I spent 2 days painting stays in good shape when I play with it


>why would not use a awesome gap filling and adhesive materiel like greenstuff when putting together my metal warjacks
>>
>>53738612
>>53738720
Your basing is embarassing.
>>
>>53739253
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU
It's in the OP, and I'm sorry about your Parkinson's that makes use of a hobby knife without cutting yourself impossible. That's my bad, dude.

Most people don't know/think it's worth it. Most people know jack-shit about painting at all and struggle to grasp the difference between a primer and a base coat. That being said, only metal models ever had much of an issue with paint loss, and even then it was rare. The people that went to my LGS before most quit or moved didn't see a reason for varnish.

Greenstuff is typically regarded as "the sculpting stuff", and people who just want to put their shit together and paint it to play a game don't pay it much attention.

Let's just take the varnish and the greenstuff here, and say this; imagine there's some young guy that's just getting into the 40k setting and decides "This seems like something I want to get started in." He looks it up on youtube, and the first thing he finds is Duncan's videos. How many of those videos even make mention of Greenstuff or varnishing/sealing your model? Very few. They just tell him about what paints to use, so beyond the other bare-essentials (brushes, glue, something to cut sprue, maybe a hobby knife) that's all he's going to get. Everything else is -nice- to have, and a good idea for the long term, but these kinds of people are thinking about how cheap they can possibly do this shit for, and will stick with the absolute essentials.
>>
>>53739220
True. If you have 100% coverage you have primer bonding on primer. You want primer bonded to model
>>
Friend and I are going splits on the 8th edition set next week but i feel conflicted. I am getting the Chad Marines even though I hate their story. I am mostly just getting them to use as kit bashers but probably put them together blood angel themed.

However I don't have that many marines to begin with, only about 25 or so. Would it be worth to just kit bash these guys to represent true scale marines or should I just suck it up and just leave them as the test tube babies that they are?
>>
>>53739415
the video you linked has a guy using fine grit sandpaper you fucking pleb.
>>
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Almost finished on the left.

Almost ready for washes on the right.
>>
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Love this model
>>
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Pinning these bitches is fucking annoying.
>>
How would a shit tier painter like me tackle a large complex model like Belisarius Cawl?
>>
>>53739940
Pay someone to paint it for you
>>
>>53739838
I fucking love pinning dude. Sort your priorities out.
>>
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>>53740263
I call him my all purpose edgelord humanoid person, his current role is a culexus assassin, but chances are I'll use him as an Eversor when I start playing 8th edition.
>>
>>53740140
>Im more autistic than you are, just git gud!
>>
Where do you guys get your magnets? What brand do you guys generally use?
I just got a box of Rubric marines and I can't decide if I want to give them the warpflamers or the bolters, so I think I'm going to try magnetizing them. Unfortunately, that means I'm in the market for really tiny magnets that I can drill into the end of their right arms.
>>
>>53740330
Ebay, china. The quality for rare-earth magnets can not be distignuished, but the price is about 10% of what western hobby shops demand. Also, don't worry about the size, there are plenty of magnets at 0.3 or even 0.2 centimeters. Just get a hobby drill that is small enough and you should be good.
>>
>>53740425
>The quality for rare-earth magnets can not be distignuished

Yes it can you dumb faggot. Neodymium magnets are graded by quality.
>>
>>53739940
paint it last.
>>
>>53734208
>Alternatively, put a pair of pantyhose over your vacuum cleaner's tube and use that to suck up bits.
I'd never thought of that before. Thanks!
>>
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I want to make my Saim-hann jetbikes have a different rune from the ones on the regular transfers, and have decided to make my own transfers. The problem is that I can't find a rune big enough to work with.

So, does anyone have a bigger version of the saim-hann caduceus rune? This is the biggest I've been able to find.
>>
>>53734665
Sorry for the late reply friendo, I was out this evening. I do a targeted wash into the crevices because putting yellow back over isn't possible without many, many thin coats. Unfortunately since I spray prime yellow and then base yellow I have to be careful throughout the entire paint job else I have to touch up yellow, which is nightmarish.
>>
>>53736312
i think he means more marines to do
>>
On the topic of magnets, I was looking for some flat disc-shaped ones to put under my bases. Any suggestions on what to buy?
>>
>>53741118
just search neodydlium fagets on ebay they make disc ones
>>
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WIP War Hounds
>>
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>>53741452
>>
>>53733922
Good lord. Crazy progress anon, well done.
>>
>>53734238
Sword and shield are fantastic, but I must say I find the armor doesn't go well with the rest.
>>
Hey WIP, now that I have a job again I'm starting to get better tools that aren't gonna break on me after a few sessions of use. Looking for a few suggestions on fine detail brushes and a small dry brush, probably size ranges #0-000. Also looking to see if there are better options for plastic glue other than GW. $8 for a bottle thats probably gonna end up getting blocked up is kinda sucking. Any other tools you guys can think of that you think are pretty essential? Anything that makes your job a lot easier? I'm trying to practice more so I can paint well enough to take on commissions and support my hobby with the hobby.
>>
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got a free morkanaut out of a dumpster. here it is all built
>>
>>53741514

Unless you can paint good enough to win competitions you aren't going to make much from commissions. It will work out to about $10/hour and you need a job that pays more than $10/hour to afford this hobby unless you live with mummy and daddy and have no bills.
>>
>>53741452
>>53741459
>drybrushing your base color
But why tho? Looks bad man.
>>
>>53740263
'Ot mini is dat?
>>
>>53737114
>>53737384

Any tips for how you did the sandy surfaces anon? For the life of me I can't find a way to make large areas of basing look interesting or realistic.
>>
>>53734238
red basecoat shoulda been a lot darker if you were trying to simulate metal.
>>
>>53741606
Why not
>>
>>53741595
I don't live with mummy and daddy but the bills are pretty low right now, and thats about as much as I get paid anyway.
>>
>>53741587
how did you score that shit out of a dumpster
>>
>>53735976
>>53736312


How do you get to this level of skill /tg/?

I know the obvious answer is with practice and time but I mean what techniques do you use to accomplish wonders like these? Should I really get an airbrush set or should I just keep trying to feather on my paints? Also how long does it take to get a model to look that good? It took me 9 hours once just to do one tactical marine are 3 layers of highlights.
>>
>>53741587
lgs go under or something?
>>
>>53737990
watch some tutorials.
>>
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Just working on some guards,
don't play them but have a box of random minis from collecting over the years that i'm painting for practice.

Any obvious mistakes I've made?/ tips pls
>>
>>53740560

I think he means in regards to their use in this hobby
>>
>>53741702
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2G9CEdURNQ

imo the techniques are all there to follow, its just a matter of taking the time to stick with em.

ive been looking at a ton of tutorials and high level pieces.
The impression i get is that at a certain point the skilled artist is actually struggling to make his mini better than it can be.
Like using NMM because it lets him show more skill even though normal metallics look better.
>>
>>53741758
>not using only the finest grade of Japanese neodymium folded one thousand times
>>
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>>53738744
I painted the same cultist on Friday to take a break from my necrons. I think he came out okay but I feel like he might have too many different colors and looks a little busy.

I tried to do the leathers with screamer pink and washes, I know I did something similar before and it looked like leather afterwards but I think I used the wrong washes or not enough this time around as his straps and pouches are still pretty pink.
>>
Shitty phone photo, but this is the start of my Emperor's Children warband. I'm starting with the Raptors first, since I'm holding out hope that Noise Marines will get a plastic kit soon.
>>
>>53739640
>>53739640
wow where did the head and limbs come from
>>
>>53734238

I really like it, but couldn't imagine doing an army of dudes with that detail
>>
>>53741758
I bought some cheapo 2mm magnets and they actually kind of suck.
The stronger attraction magnets in the same size were sold out and I feel there's a reason for that.

>meanwhile my 3mm magnets in the higher quality grade secure limbs like they're fucking Mjölnir
>>
>>53741833
>leather
I know what you're doing because I do the exact same trick with a brown base and Agrax. More washes in heavier layers to get that semigloss effect.
>>
>>53741907
Kromlech
>>
>>53734104
hmm

He could use a very fine-pointed pen with fluo green/yellow ink.

I used to use this technique back in the days to make dwarf runes on sleeves and blades
>>
>>53742873
Would anyone happen to have a chart with all citadel colors on it?

I'm looking at doing a colour scheme in a different colour, but I still want the same layers of brightness. It wo
>>
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>>53741587
>got it out of a dumpster

You're gonna want to elaborate, anon.
>>
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>>53737990
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enUqWuU-Nns

Is it that hard to look up some tutorials before you start painting?
>>
>>53741744
See this anon's post: >>53743342
>>
>>53741702
Honestly anon's post >>53736312 isn't hard at all. If anything that kind of painting is pretty lazy.

All he's used is an airbrush to do some vague highlights, a recess wash and then weathering and highlights. Anyone can do that with the right tools.

This post on the other hand >>53735976 is stunning. That freehand work and soft tones are gorgeous.
>>
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Thinking about getting some Sisters. Other than not giving them a 1000 yard stare, I was thinking of cutting the topknot and moving it back as a ponytail while greenstuffing them some proper hair. How hard would it be to get some hair going with GS?
>>
>>53743478
Hair is usually very easy to do. Are you thinking about long hair?
>>
>>53734238
airbrush or brush only?
>>
>>53743494
Nah, just something very basic to lessen the Hannibal Lecter look they have in the original models. Maybe long and wavy hair for some of the leader models.
>>
>>53743478
Pulled back hair like that is pretty easy... lay down a wad of GS to cover the scalp, even it out, get the hairline right, then start cutting lines in front to back until the texture's where you want it. You've already got the ponytail bit, so all you need to do is leave a flat for it to sit on and pin it in after everything's dry.
>>
>>53737007
They're off to a fantastic start, anon. You have the right idea looking to push the medieval theme further though- more Bretonnian/Not-Bretonnian bits are the way to go, like replacing the boots with some of the leggings or ruffled sleeves like in pic related. It takes awhile, but I've been doing it with some of my Inquisitor henchmen and it looks great.

Also this is more subjective but I'd definitely swap out their stock combat blades with something else- they look too stupidly huge and unwieldy for being a basic combat blade. Just throws the whole model off.
>>
I'm thinking of making my Baneblades Illuminated. Illuminated in the sense of pic-related, not "Hue hue hue, I rigged up a battery pack and a couple of LEDs for headlights, WORSHIP MY CREATIVITY!"

Does anyone know of anyone else who did something like this? Googling "Illuminated Baneblade" only really returns LED faggotry.
>>
>>53738746
this is really nice, great buff high tones. what'd you use?
>>
>>53740263
thats pretty bitchin
>>
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Assembled my first miniatures today.
>>
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Got the first base coat on my Sslyth finished today.
>>
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Approaching completion, lost the last dudes base so now I got even more delays to this over delayed project
>>
>>53743654
Marneus calgars personal pimp wagon comes to mind.
They sketched some scenes from his carreer in a way akin to a stained glass church window, and printed them onto decal paper to apply them onto the land raider.
They left it at that, but it should be easy enough to paint over that to get to what you put up as an example.
Aside from that pretty much every golden demon entry with a banner looks comparable, but i guess calgars command vehicle does the framing of the artwork and such best.

There was another big 'official' vehicle like this for Yarrick.
The Fortress of Contempt I think it was called. That one was just decked out in freehand skulls though i think.
>>
>>53743654
A dude did a sistine chapel LR. I'm not a major fan of how it looks but the general idea is a cool one
>>
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>>53743654
I think you have 2 basic options:
1. Lrn2Paint
2. Custom decals
Option 2 sounds easier to me; the guys who model ww2 stuff have been doing it that way for years.
>>
>>53743725
looks awesome so far, besides that hair or whatever stuck to it on the tail. are you the white armor DE guy?
>>
>>53743763
>>53743780
>>53743793

Good ideas, thanks!
>>
>>53738612

Try to be a bit more patient. There are lots of places where the blue covers areas that are supposed to be gold. Also, stuff like the blotch of blue paint on the eagle's head that he stand on his just lazy.
>>
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>>53743810
yeah, the hair I noticed after I posted. It was just some fluff i removed. I wish I was the white Deldar guy he paints better than i do. Mine are in bone.
>>
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>>53733922
Here's the first two I did in March
>>
>>53743866
It's a nice scheme anyway anon, don't be so hard on yourself
>>
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>>53733922
And here's one I'm still working on now
>>
>>53743654

Get clear decal film by experts choice or bare metal, you can print these out and apply them like a transfer.
>>
>>53743682
clean off the mold lines.
>>
>>53743129
From what I've been told from former GW employees, if a kit is returned for being defective/miscast, even if it is extremely minor, it is thrown away. Alternatively, but not relative to the 'Naut, is if a thing is going out of print. An example would be a lot of Fantasy models would be tossed out for the newer AoS boxes simply for the reason of the new kit having rounded bases.

I know two people who had entire armies they acquired in this way.
>>
>>53743500
Brush. Can't afford to learn a whole new tool from scratch.
>>
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Finished my first predator
>>
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>>53744296
>>
>>53744296
>>53744308

Is that schurzen?
>>
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>>53744308
Fully magnetized. Lascannons are still being painted.
>>
>>53744296
>>53744308

On one hand that edge highlighting is a little extreme, but on the other that turret modification is nice. Did you use some schurzen from an actual panzer kit or did you scratch build it?
>>
>>53741606
https://youtu.be/S8DkrziR4-8
This guy does it and its perfect
>>
>>53744330
Just a strip of plasticard and sprue for the supports.
>>
>>53744296
Dude.
You called your tank 'tank' in another language?
Seems a little uninspired.
>>
>>53744373
Exactly. I'm regretting nothe numbering it 4 though.
>>
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>>53734036
Stick some N U L N O I L on there, mhm, just a little bit... like that.
>>
>>53744326

I like the Panzer III/IV style turret armor.
>>
>>53740319
>putting in the effort is autism

Enjoy your shitty models that fall apart.
>>
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>>53744296
>Panzer
>looks like it's been fingerpainted on by a dyslexic retard

Dude, take the 10 minutes and write proper.
>>
>>53731499
>tfw almost throw up from the smell of old Devlan mud wash
>>
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>>53741587
>>53744067
>>
>>53743893
thanks bud.
>>
>>53732594
where did you get those guns anon?
>>
>>53733379
i like this

>>53733671
tabletop++

>>53733922
you've come a long way baby

>>53735411
i love this rare non-standard ork scheme

>>53736312
spectacular

>>53738746
love it

>>53741587
not crazy about the raised leg. could you put some wreckage under it?
>>
>>53744456
You realize that guide assumes a calligraphy pen, right? Not sure if you can get chisel tips that will work at scale.
>>
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>>53744893
Kill yourself.
>>
>>53734098
tfw you dont have pantyhose to spare
>>
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>>53744917
>rating projects is bad
Fuck off you baby
>>
>>53743658
started with death world forest and an athonian camo shade wash, and slowly worked my way up through elysian green, then ogryn camo for extreme highlights
lips were just a simple pink glaze made with some elysian green mixed with equal parts wazdakka red and then thinned way the fuck down with lahmian medium
>>
>>53735411
Man that a good bronze.
Layered over silver?
>>
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>>53744983
>rating projects is bad
Yeah writing a bunch of shit like "spectacular, love it, like it, tabletop ++" is bad you fucking autist, especially when it's all cramped into a single post.

Also I see you're a fan of Fairly Oddparents, so please drink some pic related.
>>
>>53745062
>shitting on odd parents

That's like one of the best shows ever created, so fuck off m8.
>>
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>>53744893
>>53744983
>>53745113
the autism is real
>>
>>53745113
Nobody cares. This is /40kg/, darling.
>>
>>53744884
>>53744884
the autogun is from the GSC neophyte set with an added stock and sight from a Cadian, and the smg-thing is from a Sicarian ruststalker.

I hope this helps
>>
>>53740758
how do you make your own magnets?
>>
>>53740888
what about using a yellow wash?
>>
So, where do we post wip things we actually want feedback on, instead of the top few percent getting patted on the back, the bottom few getting laughed at, and the middle ignored entirely?

No, it isn't Reddit.
>>
>>53745208
Right here, just take a good picture (Lighting, focus, backdrop, crop irrelevant shit) and ask for pointers on specifics.
>>
>>53745232
THIS.
If you post a picture with something like: "here's another rhino, I really like how it turned out" most responses you're going to get will most likely be "cool" or "I dig the colour scheme" etc.
>>
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>>53745208
>No, it isn't Reddit

Yes it is, you fag.
>>
>>53743793
where do you get custom decals?
>>
>>53745297
You can get decal printer paper for both laser and inkjet.
>>
>>53745297
You make them. Take some artwork into your photo manipulator of choice, scale it down so it's whatever your target size @600 dpi, then print on decal paper.
>>
>>53745297
http://www.fallouthobbies.com/custom/

That's a company that makes custom decals.
Though buying quality decal paper and having a good printer will also work just fine.
>>
>>53744992
Thanks! Building a green tide right now, and I'm gonna optimistically go and buy some ogryn camo pots instead of really pondering how the fuck I am going to paint 130+ individual troop-sized models at my current pace and to my personal standards in a human lifetime
>>
>>53745336
Forgot to mention post processing: after they're printed, they need to be clear coated (if inkjet, give the ink a good day to dry). Normal spray glosd works OK, Testors makes a rattlecan sealer for decals that lays down thinner.
>>
>>53745176
i meant decals
>>
>>53745147
This is /wipg/ you fucking darling dick muncher
>>
>>53745355
Huh, they do white and have reasonable pricing... I'll have to file that one away
>>
>>53741643
cause it looks bad. Just like he said
>>
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Posted a few days ago moaning about being new and shitty, and you were pretty encouraging instead of just telling me to git gud like I deserved. Anyway, here's what I've got so far. Well aware of the obvious problems like the overly thick primer ruining everything.

How's the colour scheme? Going for mainly yellow, and not sure if there's too much red or of I can get away with a bit more.
Don't know what you can do with the bases, which is why there's currently a variety.
Have trouble working out what's supposed to be what, like metal vs wood on the guns. Box art sometimes helps, but mostly doesn't.
>>
Next Week's Incoming Duncster Videos for the unsure.
>>
>>53745513
>Have trouble working out what's supposed to be what, like metal vs wood on the guns. Box art sometimes helps, but mostly doesn't.
Gw site should have some high res photos to check.
Also, don't rush it, have a steady hand and thin your paints. Buy some shades and learn to use them.
Also, follow the advice of this good fella here (Warhammertv on youtube) >>53745545
>>
>>53745513
Which overly smooth primer id definitely screwing you over.

You'll need to add some detail to the metal and likely a wash as well.

You'll also need a proper balance for the yellow, as is you have a overbright shiny yellow, overbright shiny silver both making it hard to look at.
The red and brown adding to the.. "warm/reddish" excess, some desaturated colours will help a lot, blue, green or purples.

Maybe see if you can take the yellow down a notch in brightness and/or gloss with some more orange yellow, like.. averland sunset.
>>
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>>53745207
Cassandora Yellow (the wash) and Lamentors Yellow (the glaze) will not cover up mistakes, they'll just tint them yellow a little. For example when I do my highlights on yellow I highlight pure white and then glaze yellow for this look. But keep in mind that despite two full coats of un-thinned glaze the highlights are still visible.

Unfortunately for yellow all my experience suggests is either 1) be neat or 2) use an airbrush for better coverage.
>>
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finally get my 30k Kharn in the mail. clean and put him together. go to prime and my retarded hands spaghetti all over themselves and i drop him, breaking his resin loincloth. I die inside. All in all though once I get his base done he'll still look pretty good.
>>
>>53745728
Recasted?
>>
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My first tentative foray into Thousand Sons, going by Duncan's painting guide. I spray painted with Retributor Gold first then did Thousand Sons Blue. Or should I do it the other way around in the future?
>>
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Been ages since I've done some painting, finally got some time to continue with the goblins. Currently working on the metallic highlights
>>
>>53745784
nien, Forgeworld. i just have all tile floors. the only thing i have to ask is i feel like the weathering on his legs doesn't stank out enough, but i also don't want to cover up to much details. what would be a better way to get a more noticeable weather effect that doesn't involve dry brushing?
>>
>>53745545
Nice, thanks! I was hoping for some Duncadvice on painting the poxwalkers. Currently debating whether to build the snapfits then paint or paint in sub-assemblies. So, depending on how the models go together sub assemblies might not be very viable
>>
>>53745861
Great job on the highlights and the skin shading mate!
>>
>>53745594
>Gw site should have some high res photos to check
They don't have good pics of every model from every angle though. And I don't find it easy to tell which parts I've used where for things like arms.

I think I just need a lot of practise, because at this stage I can't even thin my paints properly or get paint in the right spots.

>>53745665
Tried to prime with gesso as suggested in the OP, but obviously didn't know what I was doing.

I'm planning to pick out bits in copper or something.
The yellow doesn't look nearly that glossy in real life. It did get that way a bit with more layers though. Maybe leaving it at Averland would be better.
I'd have thought blue or purple would clash too much, which is why I was picking bits out with red.

Thanks for your help guys.
>>
>>53744296
Thickest edge highlights ever.
>>
>>53745988
>They don't have good pics of every model from every angle though. And I don't find it easy to tell which parts I've used where for things like arms.
Maybe this will help?: https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Skitarii-Rangers Look at the third picture.
Also of course practice will always help.
>>
>>53746039
>>53745988
>Look at the third picture
I meant the fifth one, the one that displays the rifles
>>
>>53745513
my tip is dont worry to much, look up stuff in youtube for quick "how to pain X" example : leather

and with time you will just get better if you keep at it.

and you seem to know whats wrong

>thick primer
>thick paint
>>
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weeabork update, haven't got to do much but now there's an *unsheathes katana* boy, also nob almost done but needs more work on the helmet and I need to figure out how to make decent studs for the jin roh boy,


still need more inspiration for futuristic/urban bases and maybe a tutorial for reddish leather
>>
Whats the best way to get rid of mold lines with lots of folds on cloth. I'm trying to clean up a heavy weapons team and the arms just seem impossible without fucking up the model.
>>
>>53737384
Damn I fucking love this set

Also why does the AoS table have all this random ass shit on it? It's like it's driving me towards just buying the realm of battle version instead of the shattered realms one
>>
>>53746145
>the Jin-Roh ork
God bless
>>
>>53746160
Some acetone should do the trick
>>
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So I'm at a wall here. Out of my stupid realization I started drubrushing the scale armor as opposed to painstakingly painting individual scales. Dry brushing ends with a better result but I have some questions on colors used. Normally I did the base as caliban, then dry brush with warpstone glow and then Moot green finally. But I feel when I dry brush with moot green it covers the warpstone completely, or maybe it just blends it together. Anyone have some advice?
>>
>>53746231
Maybe trying to use fewer? You basically shouldn't have any paint on the brush
>>
>>53746160
Just use a good knife, something like pic related maybe? Just take your time and be patient.
>>53746211
Are you fucking retarded?
>>
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>>53746344
Forgot the pic
>>
>>53746344
Why? Just put a bit on your brush on put it on the miniature. If you're lazy or the mold lines are very big you can always dip the miniature in and let it rest for a couple hours, then use a toothbrush to brush them off
>>
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>>53746393
You cheeky little shit.
>>
>>53745854
I've tried it the other way around. Trust me anon, you're doing good so far and it's also the much easier method.
>>
>>53746414
I would even put it in for the night if the piece is too big. I suggest doing it for big miniatures with a lot of fine details, like Imperial Knights
>>
>>53746414
He's not totally off base; you can melt old pieces of sprue with some acetone and make a slurry to fill really bad mold slips. Better than greenstuff if you just want to fill and not add detail.
>>
>>53746145
>I need to figure out how to make decent studs
Use the toothpick to add a "dot" of PVA glue on the armour. Wait until it dries. Repeat until the desired size.

I find carpenter's glue is a bit easier to work with since it dries yellow, personally.
>>
>>53746363
Does anyone have a hobby knife they really like? I got a "nice" blue handled xacto and the fucking thing doesn't lock the blade well, if too much pressure is applied it just slides out
>>
>>53746430
Thank goodness. Also, thanks for the encouragement Anon
>>
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>>53745139
>>53745062
>>53744917
What the fuck is wrong with you? Dude gave a shitload better opinions than you have you leecher lurker troll piece of shit.
>>
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>>53746665
I've always used a small boxcutter and never had any problems with it.
I tried the scalpels and xacto's too, but they seem kind of wobbly in comparison. The blade moves a lot in those and the tip breaks easily.
Wasn't a fan of them.

Anyway, if you got a decent boxcutter the blade won't move much and if it's going dull while you work you can just snap the tip off and continue with a sharp blade.

Found it a lot more comfortable to work with in 99% percent of the cases.
Sometimes there are tiny bits where you can't get into the space with that kind of blade, but that only happens once in a while and isn't really a problem either.
>>
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>>53745988
>I'd have thought blue or purple would clash too much
Only if you go full saturation.

One of the best tools i find is paint-net, or similar program that lets you select ans just hue/saturation of individual parts.

I tweaked the colour a bit here, with a less intense yellow and powder-blue trousers.
>>
>>53746665
I have a cheapo $5 one and its been working fine for a year. Takes xacto-style replacements.
>>
Hey everyone, I'm looking for some suggestions for miniatures to paint.

In preparation for Kingdom Death coming out in the relatively near future, I've decided to try get up my painting chops, and I'm looking for suggestions for some interesting, fun minis to paint. I don't really care about any particular game I used to play necrons and a little bit of cryx, but it's been years and I was garbage at them but so far I've grabbed some Malifaux minis that were on sale at my LGS and am looking for more. Ideally something that's not super duper expensive, and has some nice variety in detail so I can get practice doing lots of different things and experiment.

Any ideas /tg/?
>>
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>>53746665
My fave is a clone of this I got out of a "learn to airbrush" kit. The rear lock is better than stock and the hex nut on the back keeps it from rolling around.
>>
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Small update and was hoping for some help deciding on a colour scheme.
Was thinking of going with bronze for the armour and purple robes but I am not that sure any more.
The picture is of my aspiring champion for my Shadow war Armageddon chaos warband.
>>
>>53746553
That sounds like it could work, I might try that next time I have some gaps to fill in a model
>>
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>>53746780
> Dude gave a shitload better opinions than you have

No, he didn't. Responding to 8 different people in a single post with shit like "cool, nice, I like it" hardly counts as a good opinion/feedback. He's either seeking attention or is just downright autistic.

Also, you're defending him, so please, do the world a favour and hang yourself.
>>
>>53746665
Ignore other plebeians in this thread.

THIS is the one you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Olfa-Craft-Kife-size-34B/dp/B000TGF9DI
>>
>>53746908
Malifaux is certainly nice, perhaps some Infinity miniatures?
They'll be metal rather than plastic, but they're very detailed.
>>
>>53746790
Oh, that's a decent idea, thanks.

I did try a grey for the suit, but didn't like it. Merged too much with the metal. Kind of want to distinguish the hands/gloves too but nothing I tried looks good.
>>
>>53746908
For cheap stuff reaper bones is the answer.
For random stuff reaper is also a great answer in general.
Personally I'm rather fond of the Northstar miniatures range for Frostgrave. Lots of very characterful minis in there.
Warlord also have a bunch of really cool character models for stuff like Hail Ceasar. Their Gates of Antares models are good too.
The thing about historicals is that they are cheaper in general.
So Gripping Beast, Perry, Warlord and Foundry have a lot of interesting characters in their historical ranges that you could just as well use in a variety of fantasy settings were you so inclined.

Pic related. Costs half as much as a comparable fantasy or sci-fi mini and is just as good.
>>
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>friends think I'm great at painting, even ask for advice from me when we're painting together or will occasionally beg for some tips on things like color or technique
>in reality I'm absolutely shit at everything
Why does it hurt so much? It makes me happy to see them wanting to improve and looking up to me but it also feels like I'm betraying an innocent child.
>>
>>53747044
Ooh sucker for the design of this one. Love ugly weirdo German looking shit. Of course judging by looks is prob why I'm still looking for a more functional hobby knife
>>
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>>53746576

not sure if that'll give me the type of stud I'm going for
>>
>>53747092
someone else > you > them

as long as you can help them, where is the problem?
You're not painting display pieces so don't worry about it so mcuh.
>>
>>53747092
>painting together with friends

i envy you
>>
new thread

>>53747174
>>
>>53740758
how big do you need it anon?
>>
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>>53744893
Hows this for you
>>
>>53747340
KEK
>>
>>53747111
Design aside, it's a REALLY sturdy knife. I've been using mine for over 10 years and trust me, shit's impossible to break.
>>
>>53746363
Where do you get these knives from. I live in a city in northern australia but by world standards it's a small town. We have a GW shop but their tools are kind of expensive.
>>
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>>53746145
God dammit that wolf brigade ork
You're a fucking legend anon
>>
>>53746966
bronze and purple could work, maybe add silver to the armor
>>
>>53748097
Thanks silver might be nice, was thinking that I would need a third colour but couldn't decide on one.
>>
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I enjoy seeing dark elder being posted here more often than craftworlders
>>
>>53747340
Absolutely SMASHing!
>>
>>53745009
layered over white, although it also got some blue dry brushed in there by accident, then some brown/blue/black washes. I think over silver is better though
>>
>>53747340
But what is that over the chaos paste?
>>
>>53745728

When doing blood effects, try to be more gentle when applying it. Large "blobs" makes the impression of a squashed rat right on the thigh for instance. Not the effect that its perhaps blood spray from an ax-swing.

Other than that, I like how hes turning out, great model as well!
>>
>>53745854
Nah you're doing it the right way. Did mine just like that, except I recommend you leave the arm holding the bolter and the backpack off or you'll never be able to paint a lot of the details.
>>
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>>53744296
>>53744308
>>53744326
>Pz.IV turret skirt
MEIN NEGER
>>
>>53747784
Hobby stores stock them but if you're in Bumfuck, Northern Territory I'd just buy one off Ebay. Hobby knife/scalpel and #11 blades
>>
>>53747784
X-Acto knives should be available from any bog standard stationary/office supply store.
>>
>>53751022
>>Pz.IV turret skirt
Its called schürzen you man of good taste.
>>
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>>53746665
Do not listen to the dirty plebians in this thread
THIS is the only hobby knife you need
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-1-20-090-20-inch-Heavy-Duty-Sharpcut/dp/B003UGM65I
>>
>>53733379

Neat!
Thread posts: 336
Thread images: 98


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