WIP WORK IN PROGRESS /WIPG/

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2 down, 1 to go

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What am I doing wrong? Do I just suck at painting metal? I am using GW paints and trying to follow the guides I've read. Am I not thinning my paints enough?

>>53581874
Those bases look sexy.
I'm just about to start cleaning a few metal minis for a new army project myself and haven't decided on how to base them yet.

Mind sharing your process?

>>53581954
Not sure what you are complaining about.
That's kind of how it looks after applying a basecoat.
Try adding a wash and doing some line highlights to give them more depth.

Unless you already did that. Then you need more contrast.

>>53581954
They look fine to me

>>53581954
if you mean some if the unevenness, maybe your primer was too thick?

>>53581954
>What am I doing wrong?

Well...

>>53582005
>Then you need more contrast.

^^^ This guy gets it.

Your metal looks flat, like there's only one colour of silver there. Here's what I would suggest:

1). Undercoat with black to paint steel. Judging by the bases, it looks like you've already done that.
2). Paint all the steel parts with a dark (i.e., one with more black mixed into it) silver colour like Leadbelcher. There's a reason it's the Base paint for steel.
3). Wash the steel parts with Nuln Oil. Judging by the model in the foreground - though he's a bit out-of-focus - it looks like you have done that, too.
4). Add shiny highlights. This is where your lighter colour like Runefang Steel/Mithril Silver/Stormhost Silver goes on the edges and raised area. If you have the Dry paint "Necron Compound", you can add some as the finishing touch.

>>53581954
primer was too thick

next time prime with a watered down dark matte basecoat paint

>>53581954
Give it a few washes of brown and black ink. Also, try spraying your models further away next time.

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Cranked out some more Warriors of Chaos today. How do you think they compare to the first one I did? I think they're a lot more lively and visually interesting.

>>53581966
Thanks, I based Astrogranite, painted it rhinox hide, drybrushed ushabti bone than washed agrax.
after that i glued the bushes on.
After that I drybrushed Mourn mountain snow all over the bases, you can also use valhallan blizzard.

>>53582287
paint the black areas on the horns and add a wash, then highlight.

just my 2 cents

>>53582098
>>53582151
Yeah I think I was spraying too close to the models, the primer dried in a quite uneven state on the model

>>53582146

Yeah, I didn't plan ahead with my base/layer/highlight colouring, so my layer colour is stormhost silver, which is what my highlight colour should be.

I'm gonna spray some oven cleaner on them and start again with a darker base/layer combo.

Thnx for the input.

>>53582372
Okay guys, so here is my new, revised plant for painting plate armour:

>Black Primer
>Leadbelcher mixed with abaddon black as the base coat
>Wash with nuln oil to fill in all the creases
>Ironbreaker as the layer coat (everywhere except for creases and joints)
>Stornhost silver mixed with a small amount of white for highlights

This sound like a good approach?

>>53582301
Thank you.

>>53582425
priming models with spray primer is a meme

do what this anon said >>53582151

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>>53582509
>priming models with spray primer is a meme

What kind of crack have you been smoking?

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>>53582583
plastic crack anon

90% of my army wasnt spray primed

>>53582655
I mean, I don't spray prime either, but spray priming isn't a meme tons of people do it and recommend it.

>>53582685
lol
by definition it *technically* is a meme

but yea you are right there isnt really anything wrong with spray priming

desu sometimes i wish i had some just so i could prime en mass

Speaking of spray priming, any anons here got any good brands for spray priming?

>>53582685
looks like he may have been baiting considering the image he posted there...
>>53582655
if you are not just posting random people's stuff, but using random filenames...well, I wouldn't take painting advice from you.

>>53582754
The army painter cans work well.
There is quite a bit more in there than in the GW cans.
Depending on where you are paints from your local hardware store may be useful too.

>>53582685
I'm a cheap cunt and I prime with spray primer for plastic car parts
works both on plastic and metal
100% dandy for quarter the price a can

>>53582754
FLGS owner recommended P3 to me last time I was in.

Drys similar to GW spray, is actually a "primer", and costs maybe 5 bucks less. Been working for me so far. I used GW Chaos black or Army Painter before that.

>>53582655
>>53582756
tfw i dont even have the "stay hydrated" meme pic to post

but yea its me, the vraks/red scorpions shitter who ironically posts my unironic bad painting skills

>>53582754
I heard that Krylon is good for priming. I just picked up a can myself. It also comes in a variety of colors

Alright lads.
What concentration should I use for stripping minis with simple green?

>>53582996
I am wondering this as well

>>53582754
Model railroad recommended me Rustolium, super cheap.

Is it possible to remove paint from just a small part of a miniature? A friend of mine is upset after painting the face of their miniature a way they didn't like, but the rest of the miniature is really awesome.

>>53583449
You can, if you are really careful.
Take a toothbrush or a tiny one of those toothcleaning things that are hookshaped and load that with acetone.
Then out a drop form your brush onto the face, let it sit for a second and gently and carefully start scrubbing.

This is not clean however. It will most likely leave unseemly edges.

I'd only advise doing this if you already painted several times over a face and you are losing detail.
Repainting a face a few times without stripping should not be an issue.

And if you are dealing with a plastic miniature you should know that acetone will dissolve plastic.
If you just have a thin layer of acetone on there it will evaporate before damaging the plastic, if it collects in crevices, say eyesockets for example you'll want a cup of water to rinse the mini in nearby.

Stripping should be kind of a last resort though. As I said repainting a face once or twice shouldn't be a problem. Just go back to the basecolor and cover it back up and start over again.

>>53582996
What do you mean concentration? You just dunk it in and wait a day. That's how I do it.

>>53583561
Alright, thanks. My friend got really upset about it, even to the point of throwing it out (I saved it), which is a damn shame because the model was painted really well for their first time. Hopefully when they calm down your advice helps.

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Venoms are way more fun to paint than raiders. Should I do more to the shiny helmet? What about dude's eyes? Can't make up mind

>>53583620
Is your friend an eight year old?

Jesus, at least you have some sense

>>53583941
No but they have episodes of serious emotional issues, due to a combination of hereditary mental illness and childhood trauma

I want to ask before trying: I have a texture paint that is glossy and I don't want it to be glossy. Will putting my Agrax Earthshade make it... not glossy?

>>53584242
probably unless its agrax gloss or whatever. you might need some matte sealer too depending on just how shiny

>>53584384
Perfect. Thanks for the info.

Bases ought to be fine in whatever stripping fluid, right?

>>53584609
For sure. I drop the whole mini in even with a base covered in shitty driveway sand and gravel basing. makes the glue weaker and as a cheap bastard I don't have to buy a bunch of new bases. The black plastic ones do get noticeably weaker in there though until they dry out - I treat them gently

>>53582811

The best thing about P3 primer is the nozzle pattern.

>>53583705
Helmet looks fine to me, as for your fella's eyes, maybe red to add a little splash of bright color?

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First time painting, I suck at it. Using castellan green for my plates, was going for a jungly vibe. Original plan was to use abaddon black for cloth areas, but it's looking too dark; considering swapping to a grey or tan?

Am I thinning enough? Too much? I've been doing several light coats.

What in the world do I do with his toenails? Tried ushabti bone, you see how that turned out.

About to try using athonian camoshade wash on my green, then Loren Forest for highlighting.

>>53585051
Annnd it's sideways.

>>53585051
looks like you're thinning a bit too much, but it's smooth, just uneven. Which is good! it's easier to just add a bunch of too-thin coats then fuck your shit up with globby paint.

Black's fine, it'll just need highlights. Same with the green. Toenails, cant really help you - fucking hate them on anything, they always look shitty. My advice is to make them dark and downplay them - lots of nuln/agrax/etc.

>>53585139
Thank you very much!

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Some assorted Deatchwatch with a WIP Hawk Lord, and Howling Griffon in the top right.

>>53585417
that's.. not the hawk lords symbol

>>53585417
great faces, smooth and vibrant colors, but the black highlighting is rough. I struggle with it as well so "it looks shitty" in the nicest way possible

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>>53585139
How's that looking? About ready for wash?

>>53585476
yes for the feet, but just wash the recesses on the armor, its already pretty dark - check out a recent dunc where he does a focused wash if you're unsure

>>53585432
I know, but I had already used the right one on a Raven Guard.

>>53581954
WE WUZB KNIGHTS N SHIET

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>>53585417
I like your space sharks face a lot.

It's like if you mixed an albino, an ork, and a shark.

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>>53585506
I had actually been considering blacking over the goes and just using the same color at the cloth. Or is the lighter tan okay here? Only washes I have are Nuln and Athonian.

Tried specifically washing the armor recesses, I think it went well?

Does anyone know what kinda red the Red Hunters are meant to be?

>>53585620
you picked up some definition for sure. next (big) step is edge highlighting with a somewhat lighter green. Also that space chicken's tootsies need another coat or two

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>>53585700
Thanks! I have some loren and some straken ready for highlighting. I actually just finished doing another couple coats on the toes, followed by a nuln oil wash. I think they actually look non-awful now.

>>53585631

Evil Sunz Scarlet or equivalent. It's a bold dark red, but only very slightly dark. So not bright red, not dark red.

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>>53585756
Bonus pic of the horrors my gf is basecoating

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>>53585809
I need a finer brush for highlights. Is that the basic idea, though?

Getting ready to try some details like Sept markings.

>>53585789
what about Mephisto red?

>>53586023
>I need a finer brush for highlights. Is that the basic idea, though?
Basic idea is there, yeah.
Try holding your brush at an 45° angle and painting with the side of it on raised edges. Quick and easy way to get clean lines.

The smaller brush may help, but with a good brush (i.e. one that can hold a tip) you should be able to paint thin lines without problems.
Well, at least in theory. If you are a beginner you would probably need to practice your brush control quite a bit.

>>53586114
This is literally the first time I've used a paintbrush since middle school, and I have naturally poor fine motor control. There is going to be a learning curve. Thank you for the advice!

>>53582655
>>53582583
speaking of crack and plastic... I know crack prices where I live and gram for gram HQ characters/expensive models are worth roughly the same as crack

>>53586066

Yeah, that's about the same color.

Any ideas for what to replace a DV Cultist's pistol arm with? Friend gave me his entire DV half to me for free, and I wanted to make them into my own warclan of Nurgle.

>>53587006
replace them for what purpose? To get rid of the pistols?
You can always just cut those off and do a little carving until their hands look like closed fists.

If you got some Plaguebearers, maybe you have some left over arms to nurgle them up at the same time?

>>53581844
What's the best way to paint in runes in the fuller of a sword? A watered down wash of sorts?

>>53582287
the change in fur and leather color helped a ton, much less monochrome, doing some washes on the horns like>>53582317 said or some brighter silver highlights to the edges of the shields might be the only thing i'd add, looks good though

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>be 9-5 M-F wagecuck
>all week think to myself "I can't wait until I get home from work on Friday so I can stay up all night painting minis and start getting rid of that backlog!"
>got home early
>"let me just browse 4chan for a few minutes, then I will get started"
>almost midnight and I'm still funposting

>>53582655
Oh hey anon, I saw you when you posted your army in one of the general threads. Have you considered using the Genestealer Cults rules (temporarily) for your lost and the damned? At least till Forgeworld releases the book for them? (I think they're supposed to be included in the astra militarum forgeworld index) You'd get rules for your chimera and your russ, and you could use the iconward, magus, and primus profiles for your hqs. Just a thought.

>>53587191
I they are sculpted as groves then yeah that may work.
Otherwise the usual rules for freehand apply.
Sufficiently thinned paint that it flows nicely and then you start lettering.

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I've been feeling ill and haven't gotten much done, but I'm trying to break the "build and never paint" cycle. Had to stop early since I couldn't really keep myself upright.

Should I make one of the kneepads the same Rakarth Flesh as the shoulders? Planning on dirty-blond hair, finishing the red on the Phantasm Launcher, and a Sotek Green-based banner for this squad. Just want it to be balanced.

>>53585417
You need to thin your paints man. Look at the upper far left guy. You can see the script on his shoulder pad (and even then, it's already a bit thick). Now look at the Howling Gryffon. The script is blotted out because the paint is so famn thick. It'll help you get nicer highlights on the black as well.

>>53587118
I should have been more clear, one of the guys' arms have been lost.

>>53587466
What else do you have?
if you got some IG bits it should be an easy fix.

>Army Painter Warpaints
>Vallejo Game Color
>Vallejo Model Color
Which one is best?

>>53581844
Any ideas for alternative possessed models for CSM? Now that they don't suck I would like to get some but I cant stand the models.

>>53587642
None is really better than the other.
AP warpaints are neat cause the sprays are matched to the brush on paint.
VGC is the old GW pallette of colors. Strong bright colors.
VMC is nice cause they have loads of different browns and red. Aimed at historical modelers, so the colors tend to be a bit muted.

In terms of quality there is no difference afaik. Depends on what you want to do.

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my workshop build is taking shape at least virtually.

i still wanna do a 1200x600 paint rack just so i can have all my droppers right in front of me.
Honestly cant wait to have this cut at this poitn and get back to painting miniatures.

>>53587234
I know that feel bro.

>>53587642
I am liking Army Painter stuff just because their kits are decent. And the paint bottle are good since they are blotters rather than the GW paint pot style.

Only drawback is that some of the kits you will get are old at this point and the paints really need shaking up before that first use.

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>>53587234
I have a similar problem and came up with a solution by fighting my own impulses. I get distracted easily around my computer too, but I also can't stand unpainted minis, so I put two and two together, and now my WIP dudes sit on my computer desk. After a while I get so disgusted with them being there that I force myself to paint them. It's actually worked extremely well for me.

>>53587642

Of the ones you listed, VMC > AP >>> VGC

None of them are too great. You want real good paints? Get Vallejo Model Air, Vallejo Game Air, Darkstar, mig acrylics, or Secret Weapons Miniatures.

I will give some honorable mentions to Scale75 Scalecolor and Tamiya, but they have the same problems as VMC, namely being too thick.

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Is there a way to do this alpha legion style of painting with the color over silver, only really dark? I want my stealth suits to have the same metallic look as the rest of my army but darker and sneakier

So, I found a polish recaster on ebay. Someone ever had any experience? I'm tempted, because it's half the price of forgeworld, but who knows how good Ivans recast in his backyard actually is?

>>53587876
Maybe using a darker silver base? That or some dark washes might do it.

>>53587886
>buying recasts off eBay that's not a good recast trying to be passed off as authentic

You pay more for a shittier cast compared to other recasters.

>>53586023
Maybe make the emblem some other color? Green is cold color so maybe red or yellow? Looking decent so far, keep it up!

>>53587828
>Model Air
>Game Air
Do I need an airbrush to use those or do they work fine with a brush?
Sorry, somewhat new to all this. I just want a decent, less expensive alternative to Citadel stuff, which is all hilariously overpriced from what I can tell.

>>53588003

They can be used with a paintbrush, they are simply thinned out for you already. However if you need to use the color for something like drybrushing or chipping, better to buy the non-air version as you can't "thicken" Air paints but you can thin down non-Air paints yourself.

>>53587876
>>53587910
What about using a metallic medium?

>>53587920
Well, fuck it. I'm trying it. At worst I lose about 25€, at best I get something that holds up to FW for half the price. Especially after those fuckers are squatting my chapter anyway. I'll see.

>>53588066

Best of luck to you. Hopefully it's a fairly retard-proof sculpt with few details to fuck up.

>>53588098
It's two characters. The pictures look good, but as I said, I'm not sure. The guy also has loads of other FW stuff, doesn't look to shabby. But recasters are quite a gamble.

>>53588098
how do you even order from Z

>>53588032
What do you recommend for thinning paints? Distilled water?

>>53588143
depends on the paint, water works with some, citadel lahmain medium for citadel, tamyia paints are alcohol based and use a tamyia thinner. You could use something like vajello matt medium but i didn't find that those mediums helped much. They seem to me more to either matt or glass or metallic your paints

>>53588143

You don't need distilled water unless you live in Flint or some shit. If your tap water is clear and doesn't leave white mineral stains when it dries, you're good to go.

However, for large amounts of thinning, you want an acrylic medium, like Vallejo Thinner Medium. That's the one I recommend the most, but you can get it in bulk from something like Liquitex acrylic medium. Just don't get alcohol or lacquer thinner or other shit, get ACRYLIC MEDIUM/THINNER. Lahmian Medium is the GW version, but it's super expensive because you use medium a lot faster than you use paint.

If you're thinning tiny amounts, water is fine, but if you're thinning the paint as much as you should be, such as to milk consistency or to make glazes and washes and do blending, you NEED something with less surface tension. If you're really ghetto you can add a drop of Windex or liquid soap to a large amount of water and rubbing alcohol to make your own thinning cocktail.

>>53585417
How are your faces so damn good, yet your grey highlights so sloppy?

>>53588328

Faces are easy as fuck, I don't know how people struggle with them so much. 90% of the work is just a proper wash, a proper relayering/highlight after the wash, and not fucking up the eyes.

>>53588263
also one other point, if you get a medium, also get an empty dropper bottle and then decant the medium into the dropper bottle. It makes it 1000% easier to use, and measure.
also how do I get Z's email or catalog

>>53583705
What skin color/layering are you doing? Looks nice

Does anyone use Citadel dry paints?
Are they even good?

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>>53566032

>>53568453
Frankly, it's a nice colour scheme and I want to make my skitarii the same when I get around to it. I'll look into the Golden Halos, yeah.

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How do you guys like my Necron Monolith?

>>53588761

I use only one of them, for my desert bases.

They make drybrushing SUPER FUCKING EASY but

1) Lol @ fucking buy a whole separate paint just for drybrushing only, and at GW prices
2) It's hard as fuck to find a pot of that bitch that isn't dried out
3) Having people know that you literally had to buy a dry paint instead of just drybrushing like every fucking beginner does

The saving grace is that you CAN NOT fuck up with this shit. No more "did I wipe enough paint off my brush? OH NO I DIDN'T" or "fuck I wiped off too much fuck this shit I'm not doing 10 layers of drybrushing, back in the paint pot dunking you go" then repeat that same shit

>>53588946
well... it's XBOGHUGE as it should be...

>>53588761
>>53588997
I'm using Necron Compound for pretty much everything steel. Literally idiot-proof. I was a bit weirded out by it being pretty much completely dry,but it works out. Dunno if it's supposed to be that way, but it works.
Not that drybrushing is hard, but it's nice to have a paint that you can't fuck up.

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Painted my first batch of tempestus scions yesterday, baffled by how they're troops now but loving it.

>>53589229
Damn those are nice looking! I personally prefer the old Kasrkin models but those very well painted.

>>53589229
did you just do repeated washes of nun oil to get that burn effect on the melta?

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What do you guys have on when you are painting? I am about to start painting a lord of change, and I need something good

>>53582655
>90% of my army wasnt spray primed
Around 90% of the army in this picture hasn't been painted anyway, so that's fine.

>>53587234
>come home from work and skype the girlfriend as she is abroad
>my half finished tomb kings are sitting there in the back of my mind

God damn I hate half painted miniatures.

>>53589696
Listen to deep house music and smoke a joint with very little weed.

>>53589696
If you are some sort of animal who doesnt already listen to podcasts, this is a perfect time to start.

I recommend some Joe Rogan or Dan Carlin.

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>>53589856
my nigre

>>53589798
ya I know what you mean

>>53589696
I usually watch giantbomb or if there is nothing good there, I listen to some of those live youtube lofi channels

>>53588140
get the email then send an order

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I'm hoping for this to be my counts CSM cultist/ Heretics and Renegades Infantry. Head and arms from Greatcoats, body and legs from Defiance Games USMC.

I'm going for a Helghast look. Apart from the size being a bit off between the 2 models, I think it works well enough. I might get some cadians to see whether or not it works better with them.

Thoughts? Does it work?

>>53590201
Looks like he skipped leg day

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>>53590201
Another pic

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Lowered my count as chimera quite abit. To me it looks better.

>>53590201
Looks more like a steel legion/kasirkin soldier than a cultist to me.

>>53590201
Have to agree with this anon>>53590413

They look bit too... clean? Well after the paint job things will probably be different. Good conversion tho.

>Mourn Mountain Snow out of production.

Well shit, halfway through my unit too.

What's the best alternative you guys know?

>>53589696
currently star trek tng

do I need to varnish plastic models with gloss AND matt?

>>53589696
I have an mp3 on a lanyard I take practically everywhere. I just turn it on and listen. With the amount of stuff I've got on this thing just setting to shuffle all day is like a radio station for me, but with good music.

>>53589696
Audiobooks.

Currently I'm listening to The Wheel of Time while in the car, painting, at the gym and so on. It's perfect.

>>53590955
For heavy play or if you're a fat fuck, yes. Also, after the matte you may need to gloss up glossy parts again.

>>53589696
I listen to the Horus Heresy audiobooks while I paint.

>>53587243
Thanks for the idea anon
>tfw genestealer cults are supposed to suck in 8th
oh well, rules are better than no rules
forge world pls do better

though I never really go outside so I might stick to just playing 7th ed rules against myself with my other army (red scorpions)

>>53590286
>>53590201
looks too clean for a rank and file cultist, but this would be PERFECT for a veteran or disciple. I like this model a lot and i think the legs work well.

>>53590393
I like it anon

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>>53587234
>work in catering
>only do 12+ hour shifts
>Have loads of expendable cash to spend on minis
>no point because i won't have time to build or paint them
>feels bad man

>https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/comments/6ey7z9/gundam_tau_project/

What's with redditors sucking the cocks of horrid painters that we would crucify?

>>53591786
you fucked up when browsed reddit to begin with friend

gundam colored tau does seem like a /fun/ idea tho

the painter sucks but seems pretty average on a normie painting scale and not a /wip/ elitist scale

the grognards here just have higher and better standards

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>>53591786
>Gorgeous, I'd do the same if I ever got into Tau!
>Gorgeous
>this is the top comment

>>53591786
>Do you paint on commission?

Crucifixion is too good for these 'people'.

>>53592125
What if that was a really dry insult?

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Blood Ravens captain I finished yesterday against the British Officer from Perry that I'm going to start today.

>>53591956
Am I missing some sort of weeb reference here?

>>53589696
I always listen to an audiobook.

>>53592132
Then they are still guilty of posting on Reddit.

There is no such thing as innocence anon.

>>53592169
What paints did you use for the skin?

>>53592234
I used citadel paints for bone. Zandri Dust, Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull. Mixed the zandri with a bit of khorne red and the other two with wazdakka red. Washes of agrax earthshade inbetween.

I like to do this as it means no model will have the same skin.

>>53592234
>>53592234

Note that I use corax white as the primer for all my models. And only mix in tiny bits of red with the bone colours.

>>53592169
I'm not a fan of the colours you chose, but it still looks good

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Working on a SkullCrusher for my Khorne army. Cleaning up and highlighting next

>>53588474
Thanks! rakarth -> allover pallid wych -> thinned druchii glaze -> pallid wych on raised areas -> skull white on extreme highlights

>>53592353
metallics and reds look great. having a cream spot color is a good contrast, but I'm not sure the areas you've chosen are working visually - it looks sorta jumbled. Maybe from tabletop distance the effect is different?

>>53592353
>>53592769
also, the fucking moldline on that foreleg

>>53589696
Sargon of Akkad so my painting sessions don't interrupt my redpilling indoctrination.

>>53592810
>sargon of akkad
>redpilled

Hello neo-pol.

>>53592769
It looks pretty cool when theres a group of these guys on the table. my normal scheme for bloodwarriors is normal red with cream heads, so i wanted the steed to fit a little, plus i think the dirt on the feet when i base him will contrast well with white.

>>53592781
Im new to using the mouldine removers, I didnt notice that until i primed him. Im not too serious about painting him, since hes one of the models ive had the least amount of fun with so i dont care too much. But if this was a model i loved, or just wanted to be really serious about the hobby i wouldve probably paid more mind to it

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What is today best stripping process for plastic models? I have a bunch of ebay models that look like 10 year olds made them.

Pic not related these are my gaunts

>>53592171
gundam colorscheme

>>53592841
I like the contrast, I'm just wondering if you've considered adding another cream element, like on the foreleg shield thing or something

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>>53592171
>Am I missing some sort of weeb reference here?

Probably.

>>53593242
Methylated spirit and a toothbrush I found was the best, doesn't get all gooey like Dettol.

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>shake paint pot
>it wasnt closed properly

>>53593425
Just be happy you haven't spilled your Nuln Oil twice in a row like me.

>>53593376
>Methylated spirit
Will this melt the model? I have used castrol super clean in the past but I am hoping for something better.

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>>53593425
>Knock Nuln Oil over

>>53591630
I feel you, between work and school I have no time for minis. I told myself I'd start Raven Guard when they released new scouts, but I guess that's never happening

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>>53581844
Hello /wip/. Im new at the game and I just preordered the Dark Imperium box for 40k. I've been lurking the threads quite a lot but I have some question before the inevitable moment I will start painting and doing conversions later on, sorry if I have quite too many:

>Should I buy the primer in spray or is it ok if I use the Imperial Primer with a brush? It's more of a space problem here at the apartmnet where I live
>Im looking for those shields some knight have on their chest near the shoulders, like pic related. Are they from AoS or WH Fantasy? I can't seem to find the bits
>What is and how can I make those things people use in the videos to put the minis onto? Should I do it or is it ok if I don't?
>Is the 40€ set of brushes from GW necessary, or will I be ok with the one that comes with the start painting set?
>The color scheme im planning for my Primaris is like pic related, and especially for the capes of the HQ, the captain helmet's stripes and vehicles id like to add the blue stripes over the yellow. What's a good way to do so?

Thanks and sorry.

>>53593869
>Im looking for those shields some knight have on their chest near the shoulders, like pic related. Are they from AoS or WH Fantasy? I can't seem to find the bits
Grey Knight terminators have them.

>The color scheme im planning for my Primaris is like pic related, and especially for the capes of the HQ, the captain helmet's stripes and vehicles id like to add the blue stripes over the yellow. What's a good way to do so?
Masking tape.

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Taking a break from blue horrors to work on Magna. The new 8th edition has me excited to field her alongside masses of birds. Just the underpainting so far.

>>53593945
maybe it's just the angle but it looks like she's got absolutely massive shoulders

>>53593981
Honestly, I think it's the strapless top she's in. They always make your shoulders look big.

>>53593903
Thanks a lot, found the bits on a webpage and getting ready to get some small maskint tape.

>>53588880
How are your legs anon? I feel there's a bit of déjà vu in this conversation.

>>53593869
You can prime with spray and brush, brush takes longer and is not as solid, but it does the job if you give it long enough to cure, wait half a day to be sure. It deoends on wether or not you have good ventilation and good weather. If not, buy the Vallejo black brush primer, shake it, and you're good to go. 2 thin coats, let it cure, and you can start painting. If you want to paint brighter colours, I suggest using their grey primer which is basically an off white.

Some people just use bluetack (it might be a different colour in your country) on a top of a use paint pot, or they put them.on paper clips to hand the model without touching it, putting the other end of the paperclip in some piece of botrle cork.

The GW is, as eule of thumb, fairly good, but crazy expensive. The brushes in their starting set should suffice for the first models if you're careful and you rhink your paints. Don't overload them either, very lightly touch a towel with your brush to avoid it holding too much water.

Watch Duncan vids, a lot of them, pick up the good reflexes, good luck.

>>53593945
that model makes me want to kill myself. what the fuck is this heresy.

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Finished up my Chaos Dwarf team for blood bowl. pretty pleased with em

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>>53594530

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>>53594412
Eek! What did I do wrong with her?

>>53594231
Thanks for everything. I just don't have a good enough space to spray paint, and the terrace has too much wind (a 12th storie building!)
Yeah, we have bluetack, I will use that. Looks like you can have some more control but Duncan (i've been eyeing is videos quite a lot) doesn't use them so I was wondering if it was more of a meme.
And I shall use the starter brush for the time being, then.

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>>53582834
Anon delivers.

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>>53594562
I like it anon
and I like you

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>>53593869
Iron Knights Anon here, I can help with the shields. The ones I use are from the Grey Knights Terminators I'm pretty sure. They're a little too big scale wise, but I think it'll look okay on the tabletop. You might be able to find them online or ask your friendly local neighbourhood Grey Knight player for some.

>>53594562
I doubt it's anything you did wrong Anon, and more the model itself, that looks like a Warcraft model of some kind almost.
I quite like it personally, it's different, but it seems that >>53594412 does not.

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Heres more wip of my librarian


I was also supposed to participate in the official scandinavian painting competition called the fang today, but I overslept because i forgot that my alarm wasnt set to ring in the weekends.

Anybody else from scandinavia(or eu) that had the chance to enter?

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>>53593945
10/10 would slay.

>>53585417
ESPAÑA!!

>>53591786
>painters that we would crucify

Not that I would say the paintjob is well executed but its not terribad and I've seen way worse on /tg/ that gets "good" (maybe not exactly praise) comments.
Its rare that someone gets shit on here just because he posted a painted mini, even if it looks fucked up.

>>53594690
papa nurge bless!
thank you anon, i really should have this saved considering its my own mini
much appreciated

>>53594868
>Nothing personnel, Fallen

>>53595018
It's a miniature that's barely been primed with horrid layering straight on without even filling in certain areas. It's pure garbage and you're actively lowering the standard of /wip/ by excusing it.

>>53594810
Thanks, man. Hopefully they will look slightly less big on Primaris.

>>53595018
spotted the butthurt redditor.

>>53594530
>>53594556
FUCK yeah. look great!

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>>53594132
EYE was a fun but horrendously broken but FUN game. I liked the aesthetic themes and general design, just wish it was more coherently put together.

Does anyone have a link to a hi-res version of the space marine chapter poster

>>53597003
Here:

http://djnnayt.deviantart.com/art/All-Loyalists-Space-Marine-Chapters-425805126

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Finally finished my sniper that I've been working on. Just need to flock the base, but that can wait til tomorrow.
What do you think wip?

>>53597284
the end of the barrel looks too clean?

>>53597284
not bad, but the khaki highlights are too thick and look bizarre when no other colors have that extreme of a highlight (or any at all). freehand on the cloak looks pretty crap too, but generally your layers look nice and clean, and I think its a good color selection

>>53597388
>freehand on the cloak looks pretty crap too
I actually disagree with this anon, I think the freehand n the cloak looks rad

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>>53597284
how did you make that sniper rifle?

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>>53597425
>that pic

Was planning on doing a Minotaurs army.

Could these work on GW models and possibly Primaris models?

https://puppetswar.eu/product.php?id_product=558

http://anvilindustry.co.uk/Spartan-Shield

Also where could I find cape models or attachments, maybe some claymores too?

I have a handful of resin bases that need recasting. Nothing super detailed, just flat bottom bases with cracked stone and leaves on top. What's the easiest/cheapest/preferably safe way to recast them in small batches? Is a press mold type of thing doable?

>>53597425
Not him but it's in the command squad kit

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>>53597177
Fucking great, why did I pick the Red Hunters to be my space marine detachment for my inquisitors again?

>>53597319
Do you think I should try highlighting it more or maybe adding a scorched effect?

>>53597388
Fair. I'll experiment with thinner highlights on the next guardsman.

>>53597425
It's from the command squad sprue.

>>53597651
I'm not sure, but it looks so clean as if it was lipstick

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>>53587234
>TFW part time wageslave still living with parents
>I'm actually quite good at painting, trying to get a commission service going.
>Also desperately trying to improve my life and skills in some way to get out of the house.
>starting to get too close to 30 for comfort
>MFW I know I'll somehow fuck it all up by wasting all my time on 4chan and with vidya and kill myself before the end of the year.

>>53597701
not related to /tg/ I know, but desu senpai, to b honest-
You're better off hanging in your parents house, renting or getting a shit ass mortgage these days is a losing game for anyone under 30. Just enjoy your free time, your painting and not having to work 12 hours to break even because some baby boomers shit on the economy back in 08

>>53589696
I listen to videogame ost while I paint, high octane music keeps me focused on painting. Atm it's jojo bizarre adventure eyes of heaven. If you want something more relaxing to listen to the I cannae help

>>53589856
second that

>>53594878
>Shuriken Catapult
>Muzzle flash
I know I shouldn't expect much at this point, but seriously, come on.

does anyone have a copy of Armies of Expansion: Tau Painting Guide?

>>53597701
>>53597759
yeah really, what the fuck? so you have to work SOMETIMES and not pay rent/mortgage? fuck yourself. grass is always greener, etc.

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>>53597520

Pic related. Hoping to get something along the lines of this.

>>53591786
This guy will now believe his style is perfect and will never try to improve.

also looking for the painting guides for cult mechanicus and tyranids. I have if anyone wants:

Blood Angels Painting Guide - Sons of Sanguinius.pdf
Dark Eldar Paiting Guide - Raiders of Commorragh.pdf
Harlequins Paiting Guide - Warriors of the Laughing.pdf
Skitarii Painting Guide - Legions of the Omnissiah.pdf
Space Wolves Painting Guide - Companies of Fenris.pdf

I bought some p3 brown/aluminum and on the box it says it's known to cause cancer. Is it safe to use?

>>53594868
damm that face look AWESOME.
i wish i could paint small things like that

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ayyy it's my ork in OP

I'm building minotaurs with a base color of bronze and I figured a bit of patina would go well with their armor colors
I tried using nihilakh oxide but the bright blue just makes it look like plasma is shining out of the armor
Anyone got some advice for making it look more like natural patina on the armor? It's my first time using this oxide color

>>53598442
thin it down a lot

>>53594562
its the model, not your painting! your painting looks good! the model however looks like a 90s barbie barbarian.

>>53598073
It's a magic shuriken catapult.

>>53587687
>google I mean Trimble sketchup
Haven't seen that in years. Any fancy new features or is it still the same, mostly?

>>53598442

What models are you using to build them?

I was thinking of getting some off brand shields and maybe sculpting the cloaks.

>>53598362
i think its cute

Hey, how do I paint bronze and purple?
First time painter here, what colours do I need?
Also for germans: Welchen Klarlack benutzt ihr?

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Just banged out the skin and teeth on this job biker. Might add a bit more definition to the bottom lip.

>>53598652
I mostly used mark IV models for tacticals for aesthetic reasons
For the rest of my models I used GW models mixed with bits from a Hail Caeser kit for greek looking shields and such
I use a lot of storm shields in my army, I replaced the default ones with the shields from the Plastic Classical Greek Hoplites box

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Wish I was less shit with highlights but it feels like progress

>>53594868

Face looks AMAZING but I think you've gone OOT on the edge highlights. I think highlighting just the top surface of the fingers would have been enough.

>>53598787
skin looks awesome, really vibrant. mold line on L bicep and unfilled wheel seam are both bumming me thought

>>53599161
honestly, it looks rather nice.
You seem to know where to place the highlights and where to sharpen them.
It could be cleaner, but most of the time you are gonna be looking at the model from further away.

All things considered this is definitely the upper end of table top standard imo.

Looks really nice!

>>53599257
Yeah, I built him years ago before I knew better. Just got around to painting him.

>>53599266
Thanks! am definitely gonna go back with some thinned paint and attack the wonky spots

>>53598787
thats some might fine teeth anon, mighty fine

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Rate my bad bay hacker ogre?

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>>53599585

>>53599585
generally pretty great - skin is awesome, eyes surprisingly nice, armor and cloth both look great - the metallics look pretty rough and chunky though

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Can't decide which Imperial Fist company I want to do. Toss up between 3rd (bit too obvious?), 2nd (bit too lazy?) and 5th (a bit too try hard?)

What do

>>53598337
Thanks alot anon!

>>53599180
Thanks alot! edge highlighting is one of my favorite things to do, so i cant stop myself sometimes lol, i'll try to keep it down next time.

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>>53599725
I'm fond of 5th company.
The red trim makes them look a little too cartoony for my tastes, and the yellow trim makes them look too homogenized.
Black trim is the right balance of color, imo

Questions to those who use Simplegreen to strip paints
How long does it usually take for the paint to completely come off?

>>53598442
For mine I tried using watered down Stegadon scale green and Sotek Green. The latter is closer to actual patina (kinda helps having old bronze pans around to use as reference), but the former works great for shading. Maybe try mixing the two to obtain a sort of midtone?

>>53599911
This, black trim best Imperial fists.

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After several years of hobby abstinence I want to get back into it.

After seven years nearly all of my paints have dried up though, so I'm basically starting from scratch with my paint collection now.

I think I'll use this as an opportunity to make the switch to vallejo, with maybe a few exceptions.

Trouble is I'll have to order online since none of my usual store has every color I need/want.

Feels kinda bad.

>>53597617

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXbghYw2vaw

>>53600329
such a shitty feeling, I hate finding pots that have congealed that I haven't even had a chance to use - I do need to switch ranges too, GW is convenient (being everywhere) but fuck do I hate the containers

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Hey /wip/, painting noob here. I just got into this hobby a few months ago (friend introduced me to Age of Sigmar) and these Chaos Warriors my friend didn't want are my first attempt at painting minis, I based them on the bleak horde theme from the tzeentch painting guide I found in AoS general.

So there's a lot of super obvious mold-lines and I don't feel to good about my bases or highlights (also some of the paint looks a little patchy) but overall I'm having fun painting. Any suggestions on what I can do to clean them up a bit?

>>53600608
For your first attempt those are goddamn amazing.

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>>53581844
What can I do to make the next boy better?

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>>53600694

My friend gave me a few pointers and I watched a lot of Duncan's videos.

Here's another pic, the skin on the horn blower guy was just Rakarth flesh with some agrax earthshade.

>>53600752

Maybe highlight the red bits a bit?

Your green is amazing.

>>53600752
honestly the colors look great and you've put them where you should. Highlights are sensible, you just need to keep honing that brush control and tightening it up. skin could maybe stand a darker wash too

Anyone familiar with airbrush clogs? I obsessively clean my brush multiple times in a session, yet I guess I have a clog.

I've tried everything to clean this brush and nothing seems to work. Most of the time its just barely getting any air out, forcing me to bring the nozzle close to the paint surface, though every once in a while it will spray right for a moment or two. In the worst cases it just spurts paint out in droplets.

It's a NEO Iwata so not an expensive one to begin with, but still.

I recall some company making a rivet tool but can't remember where. Anyone know what I'm talking about?

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>Follow along with St. Duncan on his Mechanicus robes
>Think it comes out pretty good
>Take it outside to get some direct sun
>The layers are rough, obvious, and overall it looks like shit

And today was the day I learned that I don't have enough light on my painting space.

>>53599161
>Wish I was less shit with highlights
that's everything else than shit

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Hey, /wip/ what's the best subassembly for painting on Ravenwing Black Knights/Command?

Older SM bikes are simple, you just need to do the bike and rider seperately, but with the Black Knights, one arm is permanently attached to the steering column- Am I supposed to fit the torso, then glue that arm and paint the rest seperate? Or attach the arm and glue the painted steering arm in with the rider?

>>53601009
I have an iwata neo as well, cloggs like a mofo
Check the needle to see if it needs to be replaced, also give it a good wash through of acetone, it might effect the airbrush in a couple years but it's worth it to get it completely cleaned

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Wip priest

>>53600752
Add more Dakka.

>>53601082

Yeah it was some kind of mini metal press that looked super industrial but tiny, and was meant for serious military modelling nerds.

>>53597617
Because the Red Hunters are canonically Inquisitor bros for when the Grey Knights are unavailable?

I mean, yeah, Crimson Castellans and Iron <Word> are easier for having them Bretonnian transfers, but then you're reliant on now OOP transfers.

>>53601082
>>53602249
I'm terrible with name, but the company that made it went out of business. May be hard to find now.

I think Greenstuff Industries sells a rubber mold.

But you can also get them from a model railroad company that sells components for scratchbuilding.
Again, drawing a blank at the name, but Antenociti used to stock them.
I think the name was something with the word tiny in it...

>>53590413
>>53590543
>>53591619

I plan for these guys to be Alpha Legion cultist, do I decided for a more disciplined cultist look. Bunch of half clothed dudes with basement guns doesn't have the right feel of AL, imo anyway.

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>>53581844
Havn't painted it yet, how's my stompa?

>>53604087
It looks like a coffee can with shit tacked onto it. A waste of plasticard.

There's a difference between "orks bolt shit onto shit" and "player tacks shit onto shit"

>>53587876
>>53587910
The washes have a similar but darker effect to the glazes. You could also apply more layers of glazes to get a stronger colour as well. But even one of the washes will darken it up significantly I originally tried washes before I ending up using glazes.

>>53598121
>>53598315

Found tyranids painting guide. Still looking for cult mechanicus and Tau

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(1/2) New to 40k (and modeling in general). I'm a bit of a cheap bastard and lazy to boot - I've got a Start Collecting set but am holding off on painting it until I know I won't do a completely shit job on it. However, I'm running into some issues with the paint I have looking terrible, and I don't know what the issue is.

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Converting rough riders, the rules are awesome for 8th. How does this man look?

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>>53604408
Pic related is the paints I have. Waverly seems to be doing mildly okay, while apple barrel is very chalky and just crap overall. I've heard paints get chalky if they're old, but don't know if this is true. What's the most likely culprit? Am I applying the paints wrong? Diluting too much/not enough? It seems if I dilute them to the point where they don't clump up, I need 5-8 layers to stop the plastic underneath being visible. Is it to do with the paints themselves? Or am I really just so inexperienced that everything's turning out wrong and I need to keep at it?

I've been "practicing" on just bits of stuff I've found (toy soldiers) or 3D printed, primed with "Painter's Touch Flat (grey) Primer" which I saw a few people mention.

Are there any good high-pigment paints for basecoating other than Citadel Base Paints?

I bought some Army Painter paints a while ago for my Bad Moonz and the yellows are just too fucking hard to work with. I mean they make good layer paints but holy fucking shit do they not basecoat well.

I'm thinking of just getting some Averland Sunset (along with some other Base paints) because I know they can cover in 1-2 thin coats (rather than the 3-4 AP is taking) but if there's a way I can avoid buying from OverpricedWorkshop, I'll take it.

>>53604477
>>53604408

Two things worth investing some good dosh in are your brushes and your paints. It's like buying a good bed - you're going to spend 1/3 of your life in it, so you'd better not skimp.

P3, Vallejo, Army Painter, and Citadel are all good companies and they have their strengths and weaknesses.

Craft paints, on the other hand, are meant for covering large areas cheaply. I've used them a lot in model-making and while they're serviceable, you're going to be putting a lot of work in to make up for the cheap, low-quality pigment in them.

>>53604550
Oh, right, I forgot to mention brushes. I really need new ones because the ones I have from when I was a kid just don't cut it. Any suggestions for a "starter kit" of sorts that won't break the bank? I'd be okay with going down to the local art store and getting some good brushes if they're actually what I need, I'm suspecting the kits with like 8 brushes for $15 won't cut it anymore.

I've seen an entire rack of Vallejo paints at my LGS - are they mixable like "regular" paints? I'm fine with things not being perfectly tone-matched if it saves me $50 on 7 different shades of yellow.

I'm not opposed to investing in paints and brushes, I just don't know what's good and don't want to start out wrong, waste a ton of money, and get something that turns out to be bad.

>>53604415
sprue nubs
mold lines
nonflush parts

charging into combat holding a lance upward instead of forward

holding a lance by the butt-end without ant arm support

It looks like shit.

>>53604641

For brushes I'm not really a good person to talk to. I'm using a bunch that I've collected over the years and I need new ones, as well.

For paints, everything has their pros and cons.

Citadel is really good-quality paint, their colors match perfectly with their models/painting guides, and their base paints make painting a breeze. Also their washes are some of the best around. But their prices are really high, their serving sizes are low, and the 'paint pot' structure is hard to use effectively without a good wet palette. Also some of their metallics look really cheap, i.e. like glitter-paint.

AP is a good, cheap alternative to Citadel. Their color range is wide, they use 'dropper' bottles for getting precise amounts of paint, and their metallics/shades are excellent. On the bad side, they have no equivalent of Citadel Base paints so the reds/yellows take multiple (talking 3-5) thin coats to fully cover.

Haven't worked much with Vallejo/P3.

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Whats the best substance to use inside 'instant mold'? I'm making some custom minis and rather than butcher my official plastic, I'd rather experiment with some stuff I recast myself.

>>53604724
>/wipg/

>>53604832
>"Give me feedback"
>feedback given

>>53604805
>using instant mold.
It's literally just clear oyumaru.
anyway, you're better off with latex or rubber molds, but oyumaru is good for bits and stuff.make a two part mold, then fill it with kneadite.

>>53604868
>"give me feedback"
>nitpicks sprue numbs and mold lines on an unprimed model
Lmaoing@urlife

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>>53597504
>that pic

It's Veteran Trooper Smik of The Emperor's Pointy Sticks chapter.

>>53604965
Is kneadite really the best? I've heard of using epoxy putty from a store's plumbing section and other things.

I don't know anything about latex or rubber molds but I assume there's alot more work involved with that.

https://youtu.be/mVZLXLaidjQ
video if anyone wonders what all this is. I hope the shit I got is just as good as oyumaru

>>53604805
I like to use miliput or green stuff

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>>53604477
>Pic related is the paints I have. Waverly seems to be doing mildly okay, while apple barrel is very chalky and just crap overall.

You're using cheap, shitty craft paints, and you're surprised they look like crap? I still have a box full of it, but it's really only good for big craft stuff or painting massive pieces of terrain. It really is not acceptable for use on expensive 28mm scale miniatures, regardless of what you thin it with or how much you thin it.

Like >>53604550 said, invest in some decent paints and brushes. They may not make you a Golden Demon contender overnight, but I guarantee you trying to achieve good results with garbage paint will lead to naught but frustration.

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Necron is all most done.

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>>53605396

>grainy photo
>sideways
>bad lighting
>not the model he's referring to

Just another night in /wipg/.

>>53605436
Look carefully, that's a necron dark lord of the sith, just needs some glyphs and lots of glowing green to make it obvious.

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>>53605460

>>53581954
Can you please tell me where you got those models? I've been looking forever for good plate like that

>>53604087
Go for bigger pieces, and structure the together, more like the top of it. The less pieces you use, the better. Probably.

>>53605885
Almost positive those are from Perry Miniatures.

Should I assemble my models before or after painting them?

Is it worth putting stuff together with magnetization in mind?

>>53598818

Sounds cool man and thanks for telling, been looking around for pieces that might fit or work.

Hope to see some pictures soon, good luck anon.

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Anyone have any tips for making a spraybooth? I just got an airbrush and I have everything I need to get started except and place to use the damn thing. I just need a box, a fan, an exhaust tube, and a turntable right? Are filters really necessary? I was thinking of just routing the air out my window. Do you think a computor case fan would be strong enough for a spray box fan, or should I get something else to use?
I'm really excited to start airbrushing.

>>53606336
>Should I assemble my models before or after painting them?
Really depends on your skill at painting and/or whether or not you're happy knowing that a part of your model no one can see isn't painted.
If you're going for a basic "I want my guys painted just well enough to use for the game", I'd say attach the weapons and just ignore painting whatever the weapons cover up. It's not like most people will be able to tell you didn't paint the Aquilla on your Space Marines chest if his boltgun obscures the whole things anyway.
If you're going for a display piece more than a game piece, I'd say leave the arms off until you're done painting them. Some people can't deal with knowing they didn't paint part of a model. Even if no one can tell, they themselves know what they did and the guilt eats them from the inside out.

>Is it worth putting stuff together with magnetization in mind?
Magnetizing only the bigger or more expensive models is usually the norm. Things like vehicles or Monstrous Creatures lend themselves well to the process.
Magnetizing every infantry model so he can have every weapon he could ever take generally isn't worth it. You're be paying almost as much in magnets as you are in models and it just becomes a hassle to do.

>Bought the wrong goddamn paint
>Won't be able to get the right one for months
Fuckin' hell. How does one mistake Zandri Dust for Rakarth Flesh?

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Some looted tanks

>>53606628
They don't look very looted to be honest
Where's the ork markings, where's the bolted on armor, where are the orks?

>>53606644
Too lazy for all that

>>53606597
>Magnetizing every infantry model so he can have every weapon he could ever take generally isn't worth it
Well yeah, I was mostly just thinking my sergeants, especially their combiweapons, and maybe like putting the missile launcher marine magneted up so I can make him a normal marine?

I actually don't play the game, I just have a single box of Marines I'm wanting to put together, but I do plan on playing the game once I have an army built up. What's the limit on how many special weapon marines you can have in a squad? Is it just one or can I have multiple special weapons? Does that include the missile launcher marine?
It might be worth magnetizing the special weapon marines too.

>>53606648
And it shows you lazy bastard
Why not just buy army men tanks and save yourself the trouble if you're going half ass it

>>53589696
I like to watch TV shows and movies I already have seen and know I like. I hate painting though, but once I get started it's nice and therapeutic. I think what I get stuck on is how I'm going to paint a certain type of model, but if I already know what colors to paint it's nice.

>>53606628
Who makes the chibi tiger?

>>53606628
Tan one doesn't look looted at all.

Green one could look more looted too.

>>53606690
It is an army man tank

>>53606675
>What's the limit on how many special weapon marines you can have in a squad?
For Tactical Squads it's one model per squad.
>Does that include the missile launcher marine?
No, Missile Launchers are Heavy Weapons, not Special Weapons. You can have both a Special Weapon and a Heavy Weapon in a squad as long as you buy 5 more boyz for the squad (for a total of 10). If you don't do this then you can only take a Special Weapon OR a Heavy Weapon, not both.
Combat Squading can complicate this a little bit, but that's the basics you need to worry about right now.

For reference, Heavy Weapons a Tactical Squad can take are Missile Launchers, Heavy Bolters, Las-Cannons, Multi-Meltas, Grav-Cannons, and Heavy Flamers (only Blood Angels).
Special Weapons they can take are Meltaguns, Plasmaguns, Flamers, and Gravguns.

>It might be worth magnetizing the special weapon marines too.
It's probably a good idea if you only plan to buy a few Marine squads.
All the Special Weapons use the same arm positions so you can glue both of them where you want them to be without worry. Just magnetize the wrist in the marine's right arm and put a matching magnet in each of the Special Weapons bits' right hands and you should have a boy who can take all 4 while only using 5 magnets (6 if you magnetize a Boltgun for him to use also).

Heavy weapons are a bit more complicated. However, the regular Tactical Sqaud kit only comes with the Missile Lawnchair so that simplifies things. I'd glue the whole marine together sans the arms and backpack and build him a both a complete set of Boltgun and Missile Launcher arms. Place magnets on his back where the backpack goes and on each side of his torso where the shoulders glue on. Place matching magnets in both a normal and Missile backpack and in both sets of arms and you should have a Marine ready for either Boltgun or Heavy Weapon duty while only using 9(?) magnets. This setup will also allow you to give him more weapon options down the road too.

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>>53606722
This ones next...

>>53606972
>only Blood Angels
Aw, I'm planning on building Salamanders, it would be really cool if my squads could get heavy flamers.
Deathwatch Infernus guns would be really fucking cool but I guess that's asking too much.

As far as heavy weapons go, where would I get the other heavy weapon parts if the tactical box only has a missile launcher? Just buy a box of Devastators?
Are Devastators good to magnetize? They have two of each heavy weapons so six different options and then a sergeant as well but only parts to build 5 marines it seems.

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>>53606336
>fully assembling your model before painting it
Depends on your model, but I'd say leave at least the arms off. Makes undercoating with a spraycan a lot easier (by virtue of getting it into every crevice, and not having to deal with not-undercoated parts) and makes painting highlights a lot easier. Again, because you don't have to fiddle around with your brush and have easier access to all the parts.
>t. bought assembled Cataphractii Terminators off ebay and already knows they will look ass

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>>53607131
>Aw, I'm planning on building Salamanders, it would be really cool if my squads could get heavy flamers.
All Sternguard Squads (something similar to a Tactical Squad but comprised of only Space Marine Veterans) can take Heavy Flamers as a Heavy Weapons choice, regardless of Chapter.
Each model can also take a Combi-Weapon or Storm Bolter instead of their Boltguns (which get multiple types of infinite-use specialized ammo to shoot, turning each one into a mini-Special Weapon). Combi-Weapons retain the ability to fire said Special Ammo when using the Boltgun part of the weapon but sadly Storm Bolters aren't so lucky.
Two models in the unit can take either a Special Weapon or Heavy Weapon (two of one or one of each) too, so you could even take two Heavy Flamers if you wanted too. Best part is you don't need to max out the squad size to buy them either; a base squad of 5 lads can take them.

Just throwing that info out there, letting you know. It wouldn't be too hard to build a count-as Sternguard Squad from the Tactical Squad kit you have now.
The only real thing you're missing is a way to denote the Veteran status (usually a medallion called a Crux Terminatus on the Space Marine's right paudron and/or a special paint scheme) but you could easily get what you need of ebay for cheap if you feel like you need it. Salamanders generally use Crux Terminatuses (Terminatii?) to denote a Veteran.

Otherwise you're out of luck in the "Heavy Flamer on Space Marine infantry" department, anon.

>Deathwatch Infernus guns would be really fucking cool but I guess that's asking too much.
As a Blood Angel player, I'm myself jelly of their Frag Cannnons. Those boys get all the cool toys ;_;

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>>53607131
>As far as heavy weapons go, where would I get the other heavy weapon parts if the tactical box only has a missile launcher? Just buy a box of Devastators?
More or less.
The Devastator box comes with 2 of every Heavy Weapon aside from Heavy Flamers, which can be found in Blood Angel Tactical Squad boxes or Sternguard boxes (one in each. A single Heavy Bolter also come in those kits but some bitz are shared between them and the Heavy Flamers that come in them, meaning you have to choose one OR the other (or do some conversion/magnet work).

>Are Devastators good to magnetize?
Heavy Weapons in general take much more effort to magnetize than Special Weapons. They're by no means impossible, but it does get to the point where you wonder if it's worth the time and effort to do (not to mention the cost of magnets). Up to you what you decided to do.

>They have two of each heavy weapons so six different options and then a sergeant as well but only parts to build 5 marines it seems.
The set actually comes with 6 sets of legs if I recall - 5 standing and 1 kneeling.

Just giving you my own personal experience here - I decided against magnetizing my own Devastators. I didn't think it'd be worth it and I had the cash to spare for models. I bought 2 Devastator sets (to get 4 of each weapon) and then bought plain ol' Tactical Squad kits to get enough bodies to put all the Heavy Weapons bitz I now had to use.
It was expensive to be sure, but it's nice looking down at all this dakka, y'know? Plus, I don't think I'll ever need to add more Heavy Weapon dudes to my army ever again, which is a nice thing to know myself.
I actually used Blood Angel Tactical Squads so I could get Heavy Flamers at the same time but details, details. I just got lucky since I could use the rest of the BA bitz in those boxes anyway. If you're going to go Salamander it might be harder for you to do that than it was for me.

Is Citadel primer superior in any way to a different spray brand? Is there a recommended primer I should go for?

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>>53607821
>Is Citadel primer superior in any way to a different spray brand?
No, in fact it's inferior as a primer since Citadel spray isn't 100% primer but a weaker paint+primer mix.

>Is there a recommended primer I should go for?
A whole lot of anons on here swear by Rust-Oleum's "American Accents Ultra Cover 2x" Primer. It's super cheap, available at Wal-Mart, and it fucking works.
Pic related was primed with the stuff. Not bad at all considering it's about $4 bucks a can.

Anyone have any tips on how to prime if you live in an apartment building and have nowhere outdoors or well-ventilated to go and spray?
Am I doomed to brush priming?
If so, what's a good quality brush-on primer?

>>53607344
>Combi-Weapons retain the ability to fire said Special Ammo when using the Boltgun part of the weapon
this is not true, there is no special ammunition, it's a special issue boltgun (longer range more anti aromour).
That's the trade off the combi weapon makes. Sadly they're better on tactical sergeants.

>>53607919
alright, looks pretty good, no loss detail I think. I am very picky and want to paint my dudes in the best of my ability... Does that rustoleums come in White too? Is it good for showcase painting?

>>53607957
>Anyone have any tips on how to prime if you live in an apartment building and have nowhere outdoors or well-ventilated to go and spray?
>Am I doomed to brush priming?
If you want to prime with a spray but have no place outside to spray, buy or jury-rig up a spraybooth. As long as you can prevent the paint from spraying all over your room while also venting the gaseous paint out your window with a fan setup you should be fine.
Generally people use an airbrush when spray priming inside but you could probably do the same with a rattle can as long as you take the same precautions. Probably is the operative word though; I ain't one'nuh dem der "science-y" folk of the medicinal variety, yah hear?

>>53607999
Is that how they work in 8e? I was talking about 7e but I guess with the new edition right around the corner I should'a at least mentioned things might change in regards to how things work.

>>53608030
>Does that rustoleums come in White too? Is it good for showcase painting?
Comes in white for sure, no idea about showcase painting potential. I'm not one of the best painters around as it is so I can't really say either way.
I've seen Johnnyanon post some pretty nifty looking ladz here before though and I know he'll use the black Rustoleum primer on a model if he wants to prime black. I'm not sure if he uses the white variety on models primed white though.
You'd have to ask him or otherwise someone more experienced.

>>53607919
>available at Wal-Mart
People say this, but I go to my Walmart (hell, even my fucking Home Depot and Lowes) and I can't find this shit.

>>53608130
>People say this, but I go to my Walmart (hell, even my fucking Home Depot and Lowes) and I can't find this shit.
Don't worry, it's a pretty common sentiment.
My local Wal-Mart hasn't restocked its spray can case in fucking ages and so you flat out can't get the stuff without ordering it online. I've NEVER seen it at my local Home Depot, only the non-primer sprays; I honestly don't think they carry it.

I'd check online if you can't find it physically in-store. Wal-Mart is pretty decent when it comes to online purchases.

I want to do Skitarii with dark green robes.

I was thinking Castellan Green as the base, but what should I do for a highlight?