WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Reposting test scheme for my dark eldar army if I start one

>>51173904
I like it! I think it could use a brighter extreme highlight and maybe another spot color for some contrast. Green? Purple?

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My gun-servitor from the end of last thread. Tried heat damage effect on the engine exhaust.
Scared to paint the red armour.

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Working on yet another raider - I'd like to add some variety to them while keeping a pretty consistent look. I was thinking of having the raiders that would be kitted for "close quarters" (shock prow, TGL, etc, not that i actually think its a GOOD idea from a tactical perspective...) have an inverted ombre for their sails, or perhaps a different sail color..

>>51174176
the red armor already looks pretty rough. what are you concerned might happen?

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Long shot, but has anyone tried this to strip their models? If so does it work well?

Are Khorne Red, Evil Sunz Red, Gehenna's Gold, Auric Armor Gold, Leadbelcher and Runefang Steel enough of the Triumvirate's 'primary colors' or should I definitely stack up on anything I might be missing? Unsure about those gold tones, since Auric is almost yellow while Gehenna is pretty much brown.
Also uncertain if I might need one more red or silver for highlights and stuff.

How important would you guy's say is Palid Wych for the paint schemes? Duncan used it quite a lot in his Cawl video.

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>>51174239
I've only put down the red basecoat; not really sure how to layer or highlight. I'Lloyd be adding some damage however like whato I did for this one (couldn't find a better pick because lolphones)

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>>51174395
>out of focus
>2.77 MB filesize
>pic needs to be rotated
Jesus, anon, this isn't photog amateur hour.
Haven't tried oven cleaner, but I've heard mixed results. If you're at a home improvement store, why not pick up Simple Green or LA's Totally Awesome instead?

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So I already posted about this in the last thread today but now I'm home and can provide a picture.
I want to use the Wrathful Crusade but don't want to spend the money on 5 Scions. Anyone think there's a fessible way to convert these guys to look like Scions without ending up like absolute shit or spending as much as a Scion dquad would cost? They are my first models and, while "nostalgia and stuff" might be an argument, they not only are ugly but also smurfs and never used.

>>51174570
If I were you, I wouldn't be converting my first ever models; too sentimental. I've still got my 3-colour Moria Goblins!

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>>51174395
It works fine for GW plastic if you spray it on and let it sit for like an hour, but be warned, if you leave it on the model for too long the plastic will melt. I also have no clue how it works on resin. Not really worth it from my perspective. You might want to use something that won't damage the plastic, like Dettol or Simple Green.

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Any of you Duncanbrothers tried Vallejo Metal Color? It's their newest line of acrylic airbrush metallic paints that was announced at the end of 2015 and I forgot all about them until now.

I don't hear anybody talking about them or how good they are, yet according to Vallejo these seem like the most modern upgrade of their aluminum flaked Vallejo Model Air metallics. They should be as good if not better than VMA metallics.

Maybe everyone is still just using their existing bottles of VMA so haven't had a chance to see if Vallejo Metal Color is any better? Also lol at it having the same initials as VMC which is Vallejo Model Color.

>>51174570

Just glue a back banner on each one to mark them as the Scion squad. I would at least rip off the heads and buy some Scion helmets from eBay, or make some out of Scouts instead but it's your army.

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Reposting my WIP magnus from the last thread, any thoughts?

>>51174735
>>51174819
I've just been pretty stingy as of late and don't have a TON of emotional value attached to them being my first models (considering the ones I first painted as Black Tempalrs like 2 weeks later look way better and are actually from my own chapter) is all.

Alternatively have thought of just bidding for http://www.ebay.de/itm/112258777868?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and either stripping and repainting them or just fixing the "blobness" they have.

Replacing their heads would be a whole different challenge since these guys are from some "learn to paint" box or something and are basically just 1 shoulder, backpack, gun and base.

>>51174735
>just stripped probably my second ever painted model

The dettol is dissolving my sins.

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>>51174395
Haven't tried it.

I use this and it works great. Lifetime supply for like $8.

i dont have any updates to post but I just want to say keep working on your projects /wip/, believe in yourself, and keep improving! and be friendly to eachother.

you've got the colours down pat, i think, and a steady hand. keep it up!

>>51174860
looks great so far - maybe the armor decorations could use a brighter highlight on the blue?

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Re-posting this question from last thread.
Need some help.I am trying to achieve the circled finished product in pic related. When the chart is asking me to layer is it asking me to paint layer 1 and 2 as highlights? Or is it asking me to paint layer 1 overall and layer 2 as highlights? If I try to paint layer 1 overall it never comes out as circled finished product, but as a much lighter outcome? Someone clear this up for me please.

>>51175356
You basecoat the model in Caliban green.
You wash it with nuln oil.
You do an edge highlight with warpstone glow.
You do an extreme edge highlight, picking out the sharpest corners with moot green.

>>51175449
That clears things up. Thanks.

>>51175356

I've seen that chart before and one side is drybrush and one side is layer. I forgot which side is which. The left side looks like layering since the right side is the one that uses dry paint Underhive Ash on everything.

You paint the first color, line highlight the second, then do the wash.

>>51175121
Where in the fuck did you find it for $8? I can't find it anywhere near me. Online has it for $30.

>>51175356

Caliban green basecoat
Wash Nuln Oil
Layer completely Warpstone Glow but leave Nuln Oil in recesses like Duncan shows you how
Edge highlight Moot Green

The Caliban Green is just to provide a basecoat over the primer so your Warpstone Glow doesn't take too many layers.

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well, I just wasted $60 on silicon

I guess the gratuitous ammount of mold release i used wasnt enough. Or it wasnt the correct smooth-on mold release or something. Time to dig my models out of bricks of silicon

>>51175698
When I do that complete layer of Warpstone it is way too bright compared to what that pictures end result is supposed to look like.

>>51175740
I don't understand what has gone wrong, just from looking at this picture...

>>51175775

Sounds like the Nuln Oil is just the final layer and the last two greens are two step highlights like >>51175449 says then.

>>51175694
Walmart.

>>51175788
its a one piece 2-piece mold

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Should i tarnish this Exarch's shield?

>>51175918
Not mine. Fuck.

Checked the local dollar store, home depot, target, pep boys, walmart, and ACE.

>>51175956
Oh, I assumed that was intentional. All is not lost! It may be a pain in the ass (and you may want to consider some serious hand protection when working on something that big) but this is a technique I've used in jewelrymaking that might work out for you...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RxELvAY-kI

>>51175999
I like the candy-bright thing you've got going on so far

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Early stages of the Emissary, just blocking out the colours at the moment then i'll get to highlighting later.
I'm unsure about the face, I think i'm going to give it a white face/markings over the green, either that or just make it the same green as the body.

>>51174185
That raider looks really clean. I like where you're headed!

>>51175121
anyone know whether you can buy this in Australia?

Are citadel palette pads worth my dollarydoos or is there a better, cheaper solution?

>>51176342
I don't think so but the WD40 degreaser works really well as an alternative.
Really any strong degreaser is going to do the job.

>>51176342
dettol, ya cunt, if you can brave this weather for it. from what i gather dettol works better as a paint stripper than most commercially available stuff from the states.

>>51174405
Anyone able to help me with that, please? Picking up the box tomorrow and don't want to have to go to the store again for paints.

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>>51175956
>its a one piece 2-piece mold

LOL. OK. Not >>51175788, but I do know a thing or two about two-part molds.

Was the mold release you used for rubber? Micro-Mark specifically labels their product "Rubber to Rubber" mold release (pic related). They also sell a spray that is "Resin to Rubber" mold release. The former product is what you should be using to keep the two halves of the mold from bonding together. The latter is meant to allow you to pull your finished product from your mold without either A). tearing the mold or B). snapping a few parts off your model.

I build my mold boxes out of LEGO bricks.When the first half of the mold is ready and I remove the backing clay, but I also take the mold out of the mold box (it's easy - just take the bricks apart!). That way, I can slather the mold release on both the *top* of the mold *and* on the sides. Any errant drizzle of rubber that finds its way down from the top half of the mold will then be unable to bond to either the top *or* the sides of the bottom.

>>51176430
I head dettol can melt your plastic models, is it safe in your experience?

>>51174405
it would help if you told us what models you were intending to paint. i assume khorne ones. Personally, the only gold paint worth a damn is retributor. i fucked around with the rest of them and found them thin and glittery, but retributor armour is nice. if you dont have any other paints, you may want a black and a brown for shit like boots and leather.

>>51176530
you can leave standard GW plastic in dettol for weeks with no ill-effects. it will, however, damage resin models if you leave them in for more than a couple hours. the only thing that will eat through standard gw plastic is anything containing 'acetone' like nail polish remover.

>>51176530
I've got some models soaking in detol that I put in around the end of november, they're fine.
That does remind me that I need to get them out at some point though.

>>51176531
I'm gonna paint the mentioned Triumvirate of the Imperium. And I have a bunch of black, brown, grey and blue hues, just rather short stocked on metallics and reds.

>>51176391

Dumb question, of course they're not worth it.

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51166050
>Beckenham Anon
>Are you missing legs to some MKIII marines?

No, I got all three sprues: legs, backpacks, and torsos. Why? Did you end up with a spare sprue?

>>51176320
Thanks! Being that clean means they're fucking BORING to paint, but the thrill of accomplishment, yadda yadda

>>51176580
oh, sorry. i would suggest getting an edge highlight for the red, maybe jokaro orange or something around that lightness.

Can anyone lower himself to give me a quick, few lines long "Wet palettes for dummies"? My old painting palette from years ago is getting crusted in paints and I need to get a new one.

>>51176616
dope acoustic
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUjifHUCHLY

>>51176634
God damn that's simple.

Do they have any effect on how thin my paints are or can I just keep thinning them as usual?

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>>51176616
>Can anyone lower himself to give me a quick, few lines long "Wet palettes for dummies"?

Even better, anon. Pay attention to dis lad. He may not be Saint Duncan, but then again, GW might lean on him if he told us how to make our own wet palettes so we could get those thin coats.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

I know this isn't really the place to ask, but since everyone is into warhammer I might as well.

Is there anywhere I can get the current Codexs either for free on .pdf or for a cheap price? I just got into the hobby/lore and I was looking at the books but I don't want to pay $40 on imperial guard book that's honestly worth like maybe $20.

>>51176805
Check the 40k general over yonder: >>51174272

Everything you'll need is in the OP.

>>51176805
if you intend to play in a store though you have to own the codexes, otherwise in the fine print for any models you own it actually allows the store owner to slap you around until you purchase it

>>51176616

Get something that will stop your table from getting wet.

Put a wet paper towel on that.

Put a sheet of waxy paper with the waxy side up on top of the paper towel.

>>51174795
Dr. Faust's Painting Clinic uses them and really likes them. Maybe check out some of his videos to see them in action.

>>51176901
The store owner can't do you shit if you use the epub files on a mobile since that'S how you get the digital editions of codices.

>>51175740
>>51175956
This is salvageable. And a learning experience.

>>51176391
I use a left over bathroom tile as my palette. It's not quite a wet palette but it works.

>>51174860
Metals flat.
Skin blending good
Loincloth good, add final highlights.
Going to look great when completed.
It's just after the other anons Magnus, you got stiff competition here dude. That bastard was beautiful

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Just finished my Chaos Lord.

>>51177801
I like how shiny blue the claws are in contrast to the armor. Really makes them pop.

Could maybe use just a taaaad bit more edge highlighting on the skulls, they look a bit "samey" in their texture.

>>51176590
Having gone back to painting Gundams recently, I can assure you that getting a clean paintjob is fucking hard. I don't find it boring, I think it's actually a good accomplishment.

Just a heads up, never ever paint a Gundam unless you have an airbrush. Shit sucks to handpaint.

>>51177856
Thanks, i agree about the skulls, i only highlighted them a bit around the eyes and teeth because i was scared to try highlighting the round areas and making them look splotchy, but they do look a bit flat.

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Here we fucking gooooooooooo
(not my pic)

>>51177801
Highlight skulls, horns.
Then your gold anon. Be proud of your work

>>51177954
> when you recognize the store in the background
Hope Greg and his boy are doing OK. They are good people

A friend commissioned me to paint his Nurgle Bloodbowl team. I'm used to painting cleaner figures with much less grime to them. Does anyone have any pointers or paint scheme recommendations?

I have no idea what color to paint the team armor. I was thinking green, but I was concerned that would either be too cliche or conflict with any tentacles or pustules.

How do I put together painted sub assemblies? Duncan says to use super glue, not plastic glue. Can I glue two painted parts together or do I need to scrape off paint?
What is the best way to do this?

>>51177954
>Kingdom Death 40,000

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Out of curiosity, how do you guys usually fill in gaps? Just green stuff and sculpting tools?

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>>51177991
pale skin and brighter armour, maybe. you could do a greenish yellow, thats nurgly and you can get it up to some bright colouration.

>>51177997
Super glue works for almost every surface (including your fingers, be careful with it ). Just keep in mind that it normally doesn't flow like plastic glue so try to hide it as good as possible.

>>51177997
Use small amounts of super glue.

If the piece is likely to be fragile or is very heavy (to the point where the glue wouldn't hold it), then you would pin it before super gluing. There are dozens of guides online to pinning. I'm willing to bet that it won't be necessary, however.

>>51177997
dont paint the parts where you know you're gonna need to glue.
i you're using superglue, it only has to be a tiny surface area relative to the wight

>>51177954
>doc thunder mechanicus
please no

>>51177954
>magnet on Mechandrite Hive
For what purpose? That almost bothers me more than the boobs.

>>51177997

Scrape paint off the join areas, or mask them before you prime to begin with using putty. Buypainted uses plastic glue since it melts through paint but that doesn't work on resin or metal models.

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>>51174185
Beautiful raider, anon. I LOVE the sail.

Here's mine.

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>tfw you're getting these for cheap on eBay to convert into Tzeentchian cultists and post in the wrong thread

Can someone explain the layering technique that Duncan uses in some of his videos a bit better to a retard like me?

It usually goes something like him painting the base color, then washing it, then going over it all with a lighter layer color while leaving the recesses dark.

I'm having a hard time making it look right, it feels like I just painted over everything with a new color and barely any of the old work shows through. Why would it be worse to just paint the lighter color straightaway, shade that, and then touch it up in places you don't want it to be so dark?

>>51174795
I really like them, the have a really smooth finish without any obvious "sparkle" to them, and if you use the gloss primer it can have some staggering results. that being said I don't use an airbrush but I've had good results with brush painting. I've never used the VMA line so i can't compare between the two unfortunately.

Is it save to spray at this time of year in germany? There's around 5cm snow here and temperature is like 1-6°C during the day.

Really don't want to not spray base the Triumvirate Trio, especially Cawl.

>>51178227

nice highlights lad

>>51177954
Christ are those boobs.

>>51178310

Temperature is irrelevant what matters is humidity. People have sprayed while standing in 3 feet of snow and it worked fine.

>>51175740
same thing happened to me once, cause i use a "universal mold release". i use rubber to rubber stuff now

https://www.amazon.com/Alumilite-Rubber-Mold-Release-Brush/dp/B0054N6GBK/ref=pd_lpo_201_lp_img_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DBQTXMX0JX37ZJ7E28HD

>want to upgrade brush
>current ones are like 2mm thick with only a few dozen hairs
> alwayas get brush envy watching Duncan paint
>barely hold paint on brush and hairs start splitting after an hour because there's not enough of them to hold the bundle together
>don't know hobby store with decent brushes
>tempted to throw out money on GW brushes next time I pick up paints at my FLGS

Send help.
Are there any brush sets or something on Amazon that can be recommended?

>>51178429
This is the only brush you will ever need except for drybrushing/stipling/etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Kolinsky-Sable-Watercolor/dp/B0013E68T4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484284687&sr=8-1&keywords=windsor+newton+series+7+brushes

>>51178452
They're overrated.
Army painter synthetics are pretty good.

>>51175740
>wrong mold release
You NEED to use Smooth-on's (Or a GOOD) non-silicone-based mold release. I had the same problem as you and ruined a couple of molds because I bought generic mold release from Michael's.

Also, this is why you test small batches first. You can salvage it if you cut it very carefully.

>>51178429
Most Kolinsky sable hair brushes should do the trick. I am cheap so I use Zem ones I got on Ebay, but Raphael and Windsor Newton should give you something top notch if you want to pay a little more.

>>51178551
>Overrated
That's how I know you don't own one. Army Painted's Regiment brush was my workhorse for the longest time, but even then it gave in eventually. I accidentally got superglue onto the tip of my W&N brush, managed to clean it off the bristle tips and it STILL holds a fine point.

>>51178631
I actually own 2 of them. they hold up just as well as the army painter brushes the only difference being that the Windsor and Newton brush costs like $20.

>>51178704
Who high-balled you that hard? Most I've ever seen them is $16.

>>51178631

He is right in that W&N S7 is overrated since Raphael 8404 is better. But being more available and second best kolinsky sable is the reason everyone has an S7.

AP brushes are trash. I don't know if their synthetics are any better but their sable blends shed like crazy. In the time my kolinsky sable lost 2 or 3 stray strands the AP brush already lost 50% or more of its bristles.

>>51178735
It was the cheapest i could get them in sydney at the time and i don't like to buy a brush without seeing it first. My first series 7 brush came split and couldn't hold paint for shit.

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I decided to go for adding some colour on the face, I think it's turned out ok.

>>51179096
How did you achieve that crisp white paint on the face while maintaining depth? Looks sick.

>>51179096
eyyy bb

>>51178737
>>51178631
>>51178594

I'm not the original questioner, but I've got a few GW brushes and I am not happy with any of them.

They've all lost their point and don't keep a good shape either, barely used them. I've always had this problem with cheapo brushes so my instinct is telling me GW brushes are just shitty too.

Is the problem me or should do you guys find the brush brands you've posted to be better than GW?

I'm not hard on my brushes either, clean them and reshape them before letting them dry. Not sure why they keep getting raped like they are.

>>51179927
Nah I had the same experience with with GW brushes. Except for my detail one, all frayed. Hot water doesn't help. Switched to kolinsky sable hair, shocked at quality and ease of use, never looked back. It is a one time investment if you take care of them reasonably.

>>51179966
Good to hear, I wasn't sure if I was some kind of mouth breathing pleb that abuses his brushes.

Anyone else care to weigh in on their favourite kolinsky sables? Might pull the trigger today, I'm in Aus so if anyone knows any Aus shops to save getting savaged by international shipping that'd be just swell.

Also it's fucking criminal how much GW charges for these consider how poor they are.

>>51180098
>Also it's fucking criminal how much GW charges for these consider how poor they are.
gw's been making record profits

>>51180124
Yeah I'd hope so.

I've had better cheapo brushes from the fucking craft section of a big box store.

>>51179927

Brush soap and stop painting in a way that makes the bristles separate.

>>51179966

Hot water will ruin your brush by melting the glue in the ferrule.

>>51180228
I washed them gently with normal soap. Is this not an acceptable analogue? Because "brush soap" just sounds like you're taking me on a shill ride mate.

>>51180315

Normal soap will strip oils from the animal sable hair just like it strips oils from your hands. You need brush soap.

>>51180315
>mfw morons think kolinsky sable is a scam
>mfw morons think brush conditioner is a scam
>mfw morons think thinner is a scam

Quit spamming the word shill and quit being a dumbfuck or you'll keep doing dumbfuck shit like having shit brushes.

>>51177801
good job chespin!

>>51180098
Eckersleys.
Also synthetic army painter brushes are good for grunt work.

>>51180315
>shill ride

fuck off, retard.

>>51180340
It all sounds like snake oil desu. Not used to those kinds of things actually being worthwhile.

>>51180340
Mate I'm just asking questions here, trying to learn. "Brush soap" legitimately sounds like snake oil, I was hoping you'd qualify your claims rather than getting upset about it. I never said kolinsky sable was a scam either, nor did anyone mention thinner.

But here's you then:
>ackchyooally you moron brush conditioner would have saved those shit quality brushes
>pffft this fucking pleb doesn't even own a collection of kolinsky sable brushes handmade by 80 year old romanian craftsxir
>hold up while i have a sip of my vitamin water over here
>i wonder when my big dick pills will get here, i bet they're legit this time
>oh no this internet argument has made me late for my 20 minute power nap on my astrofoam mattress
Is there any scam you won't buy into goy?

>>51180486
>>51180461

Don't buy it then, nobody gives a fuck you retard. You really can't imagine why people who know better than you get upset when you constantly shitpost your ignorance so confidently? And I guarantee you've done shit like this constantly, every day on this board.

You know what keeps sable brushes sharp when you buy them? Fucking brush soap, you fucking dipshit. They use brush soap on the kolinsky's to form a presentable point before they are sold, because kolinsky hairs are too soft to naturally hold a point when dry.

>>51180499
Holy shit calm down you fucking sperg. Time to take a fucking walk.

Oh boy, it's turning into another one of those threads. Good job, everyone.

>>51180486
>implying brush conditioner doesn't revitalize old brushes
>implying the rest of your retarded strawman greentext changes facts

If you had any brains, you could literally just research this shit yourself and find actual video evidence of people demonstrating brush soap on YouTube, but you're too fucking stupid for that aren't you, all you can do is ask /tg/ for advice then call the few bits of good advice you get shill and snake oil. Go buy some more GW brushes and paint, faglord.

>>51180524
Go to bed mate.

>>51180517
>Good job, everyone
>implying it isn't just one over-confident ignorant dipshit every time

If you don't know shit, you shouldn't talk, simple as that. Just check the fucking retard over here adding zero to the discussion >>51180511 telling people to calm down when he's also using the same profanity and spewing half a dozen lines of greentext trying to project.

>>51180499
>They use brush soap on the kolinsky's to form a presentable point before they are sold, because kolinsky hairs are too soft to naturally hold a point when dry
You know that's all you needed to say you triggered little bitch.

Thanks for the info, but fuck you for real dude.

>And I guarantee you've done shit like this constantly, every day on this board
I suppose to keep up a crusade of butthurt this intense you'd need to convince yourself you have an arch nemesis. Keep dreaming senpai.

>>51180544
>You know that's all you needed to say you triggered little bitch.

No, all I needed to say was use brush soap.

>>51180535
What the fuck is the matter? This came out of fucking no where lmao.

>>51180544
Nobody has to justify anything to you, faggot. Fuck off and quit shitting up the generals, you entitled fuck. Keep pretending you're not some shitposting cunt by continuously shitposting, even now, I'm sure that'll show everyone what a not-shitposter you are.

>>51180535
But anon, you're 'everyone' too.

>>51180544
>MY BRUSHES WON'T STAY SHARP
>Use brush soap if you want them to stay sharp.
>THAT SOUNDS LIKE SNAKE OIL
>Okay whatever, retard.
>LOL I'M JUST ASKING QUESTIONS M8, LOL LOL WHY ARE YOU SO MAD LOL LOOK AT HIM GOING "ACKSHUALLY" LOL

>>51180524
Jesus dude, settle down. Are you upset about the dick pills? I'm sorry, I didn't realise you were "happy" with your micropenis.

>>51180583
>I AM SILLY

What the fuck is this seriously, the guy asked literally two questions and he wasn't even slightly rude about it.

>>51180566
>Nobody has to justify anything to you, faggot
You're sure trying to justify THAT fact though aren't you matey.

Stop derailing the thread anyway you assmad crybaby. Post a WIP pic or get the fuck out of here desu.

>>51180602

I noticed you made no effort to justify that brush soap is snake oil. Too lazy to do anything in life besides be stupid and shitpost? Maybe if you weren't such a lazy, stupid, worthless cunt you could afford a couple bucks to buy a cake of brush soap to see if it's real or not.

>>51180593
Come on, the guy came into a hobby WIP thread on an Antarctic BBQ tips forum and didn't know about brush soap. He got what he deserved.

>>51180544
>>51180602
>senpai
>desu

Holy shit look at this cancerous, meme spamming AU shitposting fuck

Daily reminder that moot was right about Australians

PS where's your WIP photo bitch?

>>51180620
>i can afford my speshul snake oil from my lucrative job mopping floors at mcdonalds

>>51180593

GO TO BED M8 LOL

>>51180586

GO TO BED M8 LOL

>>51180635
>>51180648
Apparently my tendies are ready, but I'll be back for you faggots later. Don't even think about starting a new thread, I'll find that one too.

>>51180636
>i can't

:^)

>>51180620
>My brushes won't stay sharp what should i use?
>use brush soap
>can i just use normal soap?
>HOLY SHIT ARE YOU A FUCKING RETARD I'M SICK OF YOU ENTITLED FUCKS *proceeds to spam the thread with rage*

Tell ya what /tg/ is generally pretty good but when there's autism it's the extremely potent kind.

>>51180621
>came into a hobby thread not knowing about the hobby
Not any of the guys above, but this is how a lot of people learn/start out in hobbies. They see an existing community and try to join it and learn from it.

>>51180666
>My miniatures aren't painted
>use paint
>can i use house paint

>>51180666
>HOLY SHIT ARE YOU A FUCKING RETARD I'M SICK OF YOU ENTITLED FUCKS *proceeds to spam the thread with rage*

>Normal soap will strip oils from the animal sable hair just like it strips oils from your hands. You need brush soap.

???

Shit was even explained to you. You know there's all sorts of soap, right. You don't use clothes soap on your hands, you don't use hand soap on your dishes, you don't use dish soap on clothes. Why is it so surprising brush soap is different?

>>51180695
I'm not even that guy retard, the guy flipping the fuck out did not give that answer.

>>51180722
>mfw this dipshit really thinks people should explain every letter of their advice and provide sources to every douchebag clueless Australian shitposter

Keep defending that asshattery by proxy and wonder why the generals are all shit

>>51180680
Okay, well, I'm not the house paint guy, but... Does anyone know if house primer, SEVERELY thinned would work? I know it's a shit idea, I know it's a dumb question, but I have to know.

>>51180741
Don't flip out like an complete mental case when someone asks a simple question, It's not as if this thread moves fast anyway so it's interfering with other discussion.
>muh australians
lmao you are making complete stabs in the dark at these people and you don't seem to know about the word filters on this website either.

>>51180745
It will ONLY work if you've presoaked your brushes in a solution of kolinsky sable brush oil and a few drops of laquer thinner.

Do NOT ask me to qualify this advice to you, you disgusting plebeian.

>>51180788
Yeah no joke dude, this guy is mad as fuck. I mean come on, I know all of us serious hobbyists owns serveral buckets of brush soap but there's no need to rip the new guys apart about it.

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first time painting after a 6 month hiatus
tried out weathering powders for the first time too, still lacking a proper lightbox tho
think he looks ok, wouldnt mind touching him up later when i shake the rust off

>>51180788
>lmao

Ebin XDD

>>51180836
>brush soap
>buckets
>implying brush soap isn't solid

Dumbass Australian spotted.

Someone even mentioned that brush soaps come in cakes on this thread

Keep shitposting though proves how unmad and uncancerous you are

>>51178046
I use the moldline removed to scrape along the line to smooth it out. Then use some sand paper to smoothen the surface.

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>>51180857
>Master's is the only brush soap in existence
>reeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Australians reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

>>51180857
>he still uses solid brush soap
Hold shit lad, your brushes must be thrashed to the moon and back. I switched to 100% organic liquid brush soap and my life has improved ten fold.

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I remembered I have a giftcard I have to use soon-ish or else it'll expire. I kind of want to get into sculpting things and apparently Green Stuff is good for it (the Sculpey I have is "expired" and plasticine is eternally soft / can't take heat). I don't want to sculpt figures or anything, just things like building details (vents, turbines, doors, etc.) and bases. Where do I get a reasonable amount of Green Stuff for a reasonable price? Will Amazon do, or is it overpriced?

>>51180857
It's amazing how triggered an autiste can be. >>51180315 This post has disrupted his comfy thoughts so badly that we've ended up with a complete derailment so our special friend can vent his unbridled autistic fury over an alleged Australian's unfamiliarity with brush soap.

>>51180908
Strawberry milk?

>>51180933
I've used ebay before, never bought bulk though. I'd assume Amazon would be the go.

>>51180921

Seems like snake oil mate

>>51180950

That's a mighty autistic post for someone throwing around the A-card. Are you posting so often because you're triggered?

>>51180933

You're going to have to look around the internet, if not on Amazon then on eBay or random art or hardware webstores. Just get two part epoxy in yellow and blue. Make sure you get the yellow and blue one because other colors like brown or milliput epoxy aren't as good for sculpting.

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first time painting tank treads from a white primer, should I be basecoating them black first before leadbelchering them? any tips for the process?

>>51174795
>Any of you Duncanbrothers tried Vallejo Metal Color? It's their newest line of acrylic airbrush metallic paints that was announced at the end of 2015 and I forgot all about them until now.

I rather like them, they give a very smooth metallic finish, especially if applied over the Gloss Black surface primer they released alongside it. There's a fair bit of variety in the tones too, they're really nice options for metallic paints, but they don't respond well to being brushed by hand, these are airbrush only.

>>51178046
I just dunk my brush deep in the pot and slather thick paint over the gaps.

>>51178267
Don't paint over the recesses again when you go over with the lighter layer. Just paint close up to it but lead the recesses or details.

Then highlight.

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>>51180340
>>51180453
>>51180461
>>51180486
>>51180499
>>51180511
>>51180524
>>51180529
>>51180535
>>51180544
>>51180552
>>51180563
>>51180566
>>51180569
>>51180583
>>51180586
>>51180593
>>51180602
>>51180620
>>51180621
>>51180635
>>51180636
>>51180648
>>51180661
>>51180663
>>51180666
>>51180680
>>51180695
>>51180722
>>51180741
>>51180745
>>51180788
>>51180817
>>51180836
>>51180857
>>51180921
>>51180950
>>51180965
>>51181091
>>51181099

Holy fuck guys.

>>51180340

People think kolinsky sable brushes suck? I absolutely love them and they last at least twice as long as gw artificer brushes for me.

>>51173904
That's great shading you got going, but be careful not to use white if you decide to push it further, as it would end up looking shit.

Have you considered using some green for a bit of contrast? Maybe some bright in the eyes? Or a dark metallic one on the weapon?

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Crashed for the night after seeing nice raider >>51178227 .

>wake up and check WIP because new favorite threads on Nepalese autistic grassweaving forum
>see 105 new posts
>read purest shitposting and rageposting I've ever seen

Kek'd

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I recommend this for cleaning brushes. It works for pretty much anything else you can think of as well!

>>51179096
Keep 'em coming, Malifaux-anon, love it. (Assuming that the hands aren't done, if they're supposed to be they need some highlighting attention.)

New to drybrushing, can I just use Leadbelchervin place of Necron Compound if I wipe off enough? And about the brush: does taking my old, old GW "learn to paint" brush and cutting off the front half to make it blunt work?

>>51180524
>you could literally just research this shit yourself and find actual video evidence of people demonstrating brush soap on YouTube

Hi, I'm Vince with SLAPCHOP

>>51179709
lots of thin layers of cream over a yellowy brown basecoat (Zandri Dust) and gradually build the depth up that way.
>>51183598
I've not got started on the arms yet. I got distracted by the face because it was more interesting than painting yet more green. Working on them at the moment though.

>>51180841
He's looking good, but

Make sure you repaint that base rim when you're done.

The eye effect is quite subtle and won't stand out at tabletop distance, but no big drama. If you wanted to add some white to the eyes and re-glaze that would help.

You red looks nicely weathered, but otherwise quite flat, you don't seem to be big on edge highlighting but it would help there.

Aaand you missed some mold lines on his servo arm, but we are way to far gone to fix that.

Looks good though, keep it up.

>>51181388
Metallics will go on better over black, so yes, I'd say so. Sadly my only real tip would be that it would have been a lot easier before the treads were glued on.

While you're at it remember to get the guns and other metallics.

What's the most effective way to base slottabase minis? I'd prefer not to cut the tabs off.

Did some searching on various forums and YouTube. I've seen several methods, but nothing overly definitive.

>>51184030
if you don't want to cut the tab off (I think that's the best way and what I do) just get a cocktail stick, trim it to fit and use it to plug the gap in the base then base over everything how you normally would (sand, pva, etc etc.)

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Finished my second ever model, fucked up the teeth and right eye a bit, but otherwise how'd i do? Any tips?

>>51184228
before we get on to the model please take better photographs in the future (see pic >>51174553)
The paintjob looks fine, stuff is basically in the right place and your highlighting is alright too.
The blood looks bad though, get some of the Blood for the Blood God stuff, it'll make it look so much nicer

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>>51184228
Pics keep postint sideways for some reason. Any comparison between my 1st and 2nd.

>>51184285
Any trick to doing the blood? I just did a thin layer of Mazdaka red, but I'll check out the blood for the blood God ones

>>51184291

The pics post sideways because of your phone: the phone captures metadata about how the photo should be oriented and 4chan ignores it.

You need to download a free photo editing app and re-orient and resize them, some folks are on mobile internet (and some just want the photo to load in a reasonable amount of time) and a photo of a single mini shouldn't need more than 1MB basically ever.

>>51184354
Real blood is a browny red, glossy and semi-translucent. Red paints are matte, bright red and opaque.
When painting blood, GW's BFTBG will be your best bet unless you want to buy some tamiya clear red and inks and mix up your own, and as you're starting out I recommend the premix.

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>>51184354
just apply it in areas where you want blood.
pic related is using it

>>51184470
That's some good info, thanks for the help!

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Alright, I have a few questions about painting orky vehicles.
Firstly, what would be a good method to paint a spray-paint effect onto a miniature? Sort of like the decal that comes with the genestealer cult models that looks like a sprayed stencil, or something like that. Could I just very carefully spraypaint onto the model, maybe with spray miniature paint?
Secondly, how can I get a good looking "chipped paint" look all along the sides of my vehicle? I was planning to, after priming, basecoat a tiny tiny amount of silver along all the edges, then basecoat the main color normally with some slapdash-ish drybrushing around the silver to make it look chipped.
Thirdly, how disgusting to look at would a solid gold battlewagon be?

>>51178310
You can always use brushable primer. Vallejo is really good for that.

>>51184801

>how to do spray graffiti

Either an airbrush with very fine needle and low pressure, or a printed decal / mod-podge as used in https://youtu.be/myaXyCRC-LI from about 5:40, although you may want to watch the whole thing for chipped paint.

>chipped paint

Lots of techniques, either sponging on rust and bare metal colours, the hairspray rust technique where you actually chip off paint to reveal your painted rust beneath. Some resources:

massive voodoo (they're a blog so can't link) have a range of weathering tutuorials.
https://youtu.be/5Frr8dnBKXk
https://youtu.be/ZnBY_hz0xk8
https://youtu.be/RFWarxHojUc

>gold battlewagon

Go home, Trump.

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>>51175740
I just use Petroleum Jelly as a parting agent. Works fine.

>>51184801
>Gold Battlewagon
Warboss Dakka Krump, started out wiff a small loan of 1 millyun teef

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Here's the Trygon Prime I'm working on. Don't bash me too hard, I'm not the best photographer, and I'm shite at painting models, but I came here look in for advice on how to improve my painting. How is this and how can it look better?

>>51185279
put a piece of paper behind the mini, it'll make it easier for the camera to focus.
The biggest issue is the colours are very one dimensional at the moment, apply washes in the recesses to give it some depth

>>51185279
Step 1
>>51174553

Step 2

Your colours are flat, Chandranon, so we need to shade them to darken the recesses and highlight them where light would catch to add visual interest.

As you're starting out, drybrushing the main body with a lighter colour after shading it with a dark wash will be a quick and easy way to add the contrast that makes things look better.

After that, you can use the same techniques on the carapace parts, or edge highlight them for a neater look. Warhammer TV's Duncan has videos on tryanids that you can use the techniques for on all your models, and you can take how he does the red claws on the maleceptor directly to your own model.
I've also added a video on drybrushing, but you don't actually need the citadel dry paints to do this, you can use your normal miniature paints.

Tyranids
https://youtu.be/gevL5Rvn0Jc
https://youtu.be/PJaW_rQIS_s

Drybrushing
https://youtu.be/oo0m5ol6P2w

I'd recommend that you make sure to paint all of the little claws,there are lots that you've left blue.
Pick another colour for the scheme. Painting the carapace and claws in the exact same colour isn't very interesting, if you choose a bone colour, say, you could then use that on the teeth to unify the scheme.

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Gonna post this over the next couple WIP threads to gather adequate feedback.

As much as I love the new Wulfen. They are too ginyu force and magnetising the arms is very specific. Plus they arre decorated like TGI Fridays walls.

To bring them closed to the traditional ones I did this as a mockup. arms are magnetised. The others will get the larger backpacks.

This one is just a test and a bit rough.

I have 20 other Wulfen that I may do this to if people think it looks good.

Am I the only one somewhat triggered by Saint Duncan's new practice of spraying entire models in a metallic before painting them?

Colours go on awfully over a metallic compared to over primer, especially one that you have to thin lots... like red, flesh and white, which he's doing a lot.

I get you have to sell the spray cans, but my god.

>>51185279
Shading, highlights and outlining.

>>51185578
I hated the Wulfen ever since they were released...

>>51185066
Brushing something the size of Cawl seems like a huge paint to get an even layer on, especially since I want to do it with Leadbelcher, which is pretty thick on its own and hard to get to a primable consistency.

>>51185607
What triggered me about the inquisitor video was leaving the face for the last step, while i would have started there.
Anyone who doesnt like to highlight gold with steel or im alone here?

>>51184801
For chipped paint, especially on ork vehicles, google 'salt and hairspray weathering'. Cheap, fairly easy and the results look excellent.

>>51185709
I didn't used to, but I've come around to it. Without it gold can look very flat.

>>51185578
This look fucking proper and not like autistic deformities, do it

>>51185709
I like doing faces either first or last. Both are equally fine. If you're doing it first, you get to work on details and it's a motivational thing when you have a well-done face. I also prefer painting faces first since you can strip the model and start over if you screw up. But if you're new to painting and don't have good brush control, then it's a real liability to work hard on a face and then accidentally get paint on it while working on a shoulder pad or something.

Also if your armor is darker than the skin tone, if your brush slips while you're painting the face, then it's easy to clean up.

For the people who magnetize their minis for storing and trasportation, what's your experience? I was thinking 5x1mm neodimium magnets glued under the bases, should be more than enough to secure 28mm scale pewter models. It seems like foolproof method to avoid chipped minis, have you ever had any problems? What metal case do you use for transportation?

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>>51185578
>>51185646
>>51185853
I would honestly just use a different model altogether if I was to field wulfen.
Something like this with the head swapped out for a wulfen head and more power armor bits could work.

>>51185949
I have always used a regular tackle box with felt pieces of felt to keep them secure for my plastic minis and a foam tray for my pewter minis or minis that are particularly fragile. Of course I'm using them for D&D, not Warhammer, so maybe that wouldn't be totally practical for you.

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>>51185949
>What metal case do you use for transportation?

Obligatory?

>>51177801
Solid/10
Blood for the Blood God, brother

>>51185578
>To bring them closed to the traditional ones I did this as a mockup.
This is pretty expensive. Buying wolfen just to use the arms and heads.
You can get bits that are more in tune with the storm of chaos models from third party manufactuers.

Gotta say the conversion looks better than the stock models, simply because it doesn't look like he was rolled in arts and crafts supplies. The cleaner look without all the visual clutter works better imo.
Not quite sure if I like the feet though.
Depends on how far along the marines is though I think.

>>51177801
I like it. Good job.

Bought some of the AoS hero bases, how do I secure a good solid join on the model's feet when there is so much elevated detail?

Are Khorne Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet enough to get decent Adeptus Mechanicus robes or should I really also pick up a can of Mephiston Red?

>>51185163
This, cut it with some mineral spirits and brush it on.

>>51186193
if it's plastic to plastic, plastic glue should be enough if the model usually doesn't have more to stand on, on a normal base either.
If you can't place the feet cut something from the base or fill the difference with putty.
If it's still wonky pin it onto the base.

>>51186117
I already have 20 Wulfen models that I could do this with. Had nothing but good feedback so far so I might go ahead and butcher them.

I was just putting the finishing touches to a model when I being the clumsy fool that I am managed to drop it and it broke into pieces on the floor. All I feel is emptiness

>>51186193

You could sand down / cut away detail where the feet will be, or build up some putty to give yourself flat areas then disguise those with sand or earth.

You could pin the model, giving you increased glue area.

If you're using plastic glue especially, you really only need one foot to be flat on the base, that bond is incredibly solid.

>>51186262
It happens to everyone.
I once dropped a freshly varnished squad of marines down a flight of stairs.

>>51186207
Honestly you only /need/ a base colour, your top highlight colour and the ability to mix.

I usually highlight red up into oranges and start them in purple or red, though, so my red robes (for heroes and one-offs) use about 5 colours and a couple of washes, inks or glazes.

>>51186299
*purple or brown

>>51185949
After I saw this video I made one for myself and loved it. https://youtu.be/48x8Sb9ER78 Used it for a couple of years, just recently bought a more sturdy tool box and did the same thing, wood with sheet metal glued to it to fit the box. As for magnets, neodymium works great super solid. Sometimes for resin bases if I have to drill out a hole for the magnet instead I've used a large sheet magnet that I cut to the base size and glue to the bottom. Not as strong as the rare earth but still good enough.

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>>51186287
>I once dropped a freshly varnished squad of marines down a flight of stairs.

Ooh! That's gotta hurt!

>>51186262
Were they metal? If not, wow, those things are more brittle than I had thought.

Anyone had issues with air drying clay for making scenery? I was loving the stuff but it appears to have now warped the 8inch wide, 6mm thick MDF base. And frankly, fucking ruined it. Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts on how to resolve or avoid in future while using this stuff.

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Newbie here, how long do I let layers of paint or shade dry before adding another layer?

>>51186738
Paint dries really fast, probabilly 5 minutes if they are thin. Shades are other history, 30+minutes if is the mini doesnt have big crevices,but is recommendable to wait 1 hour to be sure.
But notice that time varies on the temperature, brand, thickness and application of the paint.

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>>51186287
Aaaaahhhh!

>I know this feel

>>51186338
Thanks for the video man, I'm gonna try to build something similar but with the metal sheet detachable so I can slide the bases off the sheet instead of pulling them (some of the models have very thin ankles and I'm afraid they're gonna snap in the long run if I pull). It seems pretty cheap too, great.

>>51186738

Depends on what kind of paint you're using, for most of GW's paints if you didn't apply too much they'll dry very quickly. Washes will generally take longer.

Just look at the model is see if its still visibly wet, if you have any concerns it might be just work on something else for a couple more minutes.

>>51186828
Just to add to this, a little USB fan is very useful to speed up the drying time (but careful with washes, sometimes if a pool dries too fast it form a ring spot, just add a little bit of acrylic or glaze medium to avoid this)

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Getting back into the hobby after a year or two, any suggestions on what to fix or tips to make the model look a bit cleaner? I dulled down the eyes with some wash since this picture, and I don't have any transfers so I tried freehanding the banner.

>>51186963
I also don't know why the picture posted sideways. On mobile, sorry.

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>>51177954
Give her heels!

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Soon done with my colourful "Monster Cock"

>>51186963

The paint looks like it got a little chunky on the powerfist's shoulder and could just be the picture but the chest eagle looks unevenly colored.

Build up your colors slowly if needed or use one of GW's base paints or equivalents to start with. Maybe try some washes to make some of the crevices pop a little more, especially on the fist.

Banner looks pretty good to me!

>>51186963
>that eyebrows
Clean those highlights with your base color, drill the barrel and the fist in the banner look a bit off, but im cherry picking. Its a solid work.

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>>51186262
>tfw I drop a model covered in fresh nuln oil under the able and it resurfaces as a fuzzball

>>51186989
>>51187042

Feel you man

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>>51183660
>Make sure you repaint that base rim when you're done.
yea i was gonna touch up some details before i do that, havent decided on black or tan yet tho
>You red looks nicely weathered, but otherwise quite flat, you don't seem to be big on edge highlighting but it would help there.
im not super big on edge highlighting, mostly because im very partial on the effect it gives. i prefer actual natural lighting versus fake painted-on effect
>Aaand you missed some mold lines on his servo arm, but we are way to far gone to fix that.
wait really ? i hadnt noticed, i thought i filed it down pretty well...

>>51187060
The fist is definitely off, but like I said I tried freehanding it for the first time lol. It's too far over but it's a good fist so I kept it

Any recommendations on airbrushes?

Do you have to buy the special paint, or can you use regular stuff watered down somewhat?

>>51187042
I like the color scheme. Shame about the gaps though.

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>>51187061

>tfw you knock over a tall boy of nuln oil, move it out of the way to clean up the mess, turn to grab something else and knock it over a second time.

It was a new bottle and I want to die.

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>>51186963
Mobile posting is problematic.

Those are epic eyebrows. Highlights need cleaning up.

>>51187243
Thanks for the fix m8y

>>51187207

Felt that I didn't needed that, gaps doesn't bother me much if its not for some paintingcompetition

>>51187232
That's a fun way to spend $8

>>51187232
ive done this more times than i like to admit with nuln and only nuln
i also almost spilled an entire bottle of weathering powder on myself, shit was brand new too

>>51186704
air drying clay has moisture in it.
That is what makes it soft and pliable before it hardens.
Basically the same issue like using pva glue on wood/mdf/cardboard/warpable materials.

There are a lot of things people do to avoid that.
Adding a bit of moisture on the other side to make it warp in the opposite direction, putting heavy weight on it during the glue dries etc.
Maybe google around with that set of keywords, you might be able to find a solution that allows you to salvage your project.

>put together wet palette today
How did I ever live without this? This thing is just amazing.

>>51187851
Yeah, that seems to be the issue, thank you. I expect I made it worse by damping my fingers to spread the stuff easier.

I think for the next attempt I will let it dry on cardboard or something, then fix to base with glue.

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Dev Centurion for my Imperial Heralds army.
Need to find an icon or WB etched brass for the chestplate
Going to be painted mostly grey with some Word Bearer colors mixed in.

>>51186010
Where's that mini from?

>>51187944
Link to what you used/followed?

>>51188011
Just an air-tight lunch/sandwich box, put in some wet paper towels and a sheet of baking parchment on top.

>>51187987
Banelegions/Banebeasts.

Formerly by Maelstrom. For got the name of the new company.

>>51187957
Chest blades are always cool. The FW helmet looks really good here

>>51174860
Those are some huge gamps in the armour, Anon. Better fix them now before you make the same mistake I did.

Had to greenstuff over my finished greaves.

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>>51186877
If you're worried about your models breaking maybe think about doing the sheet magnet way and not rare earth. You know like a large magnetic sign you could put on a car door? Something like that, I just cut little squares, glue them to the bottom of the base then trim. For my container I used thin wood glued some sheet metal to it then also attached some cabinet knobs in the corners so I can pick it up, its nice doubles as a movement tray or whatever. Heres a pic of what it looks like on a mini, theres a thin magnet on the bottom of the base, I do it before painting. This is a metal mini on a resin base and it holds no problem. Sorry for the block of text posting from my mobile.

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Currently in the process of painting the ice bases for my AdMec figures. Prepping the stuff I need for the Onager's base and was wondering what kind of extra decoration I could easily and cheaply add to not make the pie plate look as empty.

Going to use the same technique on it as on pic related's base..

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Got my bikers to the "good enogh for now" level. Gonna revisit them after I finish the rest of the army. Any thoughts at this point?
...god these models are terrible

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>>51188136

>>51188069
Mierce Miniatures.

Maelstrom was run by assholes who pocketed Kickstarter money and ran. The guys who were not assholes bought them out, slowly completed the Kickstarter orders as Mierce, then started Kickstarters to expand their lines. They're up to five that have delvered on time now since Maelstrom.

Warning: they put scrotum or pussy on most of their monsters.

>>51187944
>How did I ever live without this?

You didn't. You just died a little every time you went to put more paint on the palette because the last bit was wasted.

Just got my first box of miniatures in 8 years. Think I'm going to cuddle it for a bit and reminisce about old times, desu.
It's not gay because it's a box, guys

>>51188179
>Any thoughts at this point?
neatly applied basecoat on those 3 colours.

>>51188260
WHAT'S IN THE BOX?!
If there's no female minis, it is kinda gay.

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Working on my terminator conversions. So glad I learned how to thin paints the right way. Praise Duncan.

>>51188217
>The guys who were not assholes bought them out

They both have their "office" at the same adress, both are owned by the same person. Noone bought them, they just took the money and continued business with their other company.

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Ducan does not use a white background. Why has he forgotten us?!

Gaze upon his work and marvel!

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>>51188344
Oooh looks lovely. Knights of Blood?

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>>51176391
You can buy palette from Chinamen for like $1 with free shipping to Kangarooland:
http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/MfamuRN

>>51176391
just use the shiny side of a cd/dvd i still know tons of people who burn shit and they safe the failed ones for me. once they're full i just grab a new one

>>51188286
Straighter than girls; a tank.

>>51188158
Some rocks, small snowbanks will break up the ice and add a bit of interest without detracting from the clean, snowy look

>>51188158

Get some rocks from outside or dry tree bark. Paint it black like mountains in Antarctica for contrast or like little icebergs on the base if you just want to vary the silhouette.

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>>51188769
Not getting both?

>>51188179
At least basecoat and wash the skin, it won't take that long.

>>51176391
M8, Go to Coles, buy a plastic container(crappy takeaway containers if your poor, a nice sealing one with latches if your not) grab a sponge, and some baking paper.

Bam, wet pallette.

>>51188344
How kicked out of the GW/LGS would you be if you just added a head, finished painting, and fielded those? It's a dumb idea but with those poses it looks like it could be kind of entertaining.

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Alright /wip/, I have a question. I need to cast up approx 200 bases (not all at once, happy to do them in batches). What would be the best method to use, in terms of cost and ease? Bear in mind that I have no experience in casting.

>Burma rubber
>Insta mould
>Silicon mould block

>>51188344
>>51188871
These poses would be perfect to convert them into a singing quartet.

>>51188344
someone shoop buff arms like in awaken my mysters poses

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>>51188913
Is that a list of materials you have? Kind of vague.

In terms of cost: Amazing Remelt would probably be the best thing to get - it's reusable, melts in the microwave, and gets fairly good results. A tub like pic related is... IDK, $10? and I got one 3x that size at hobby lobby for ~$30 regular, ~$20 on sale.

Smooth-On's Smooth Cast 300 is probably another $20 or so on Amazon and works reasonably well. You can pop it out of the mold within 15 minutes (or 45 if you have a lot of overhangs) and if you don't whip the liquid while mixing, mostly bubble free.

>>51188913
Are they non standard sized bases?
Are you going to texture them?
if you answered no to these questions don't recast, buy recasts.

>>51188844
>tfw no Yukari to tend your main gun
At some point, possibly.

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>>51189007
>>51188913
Pic related is the result I got with what I mentioned. The reason for all the "acne" is I didn't let the master dry completely before molding it, so small beads of water got to the surface. It's very smooth and works well otherwise.

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The enemy cannot push a button, if you disable his hand!

MEDIC!

>>51189007
I haven't bought any materials yet, still researching what my options are. Those are the three that seem the best options for making moulds; burma rubber you just paint several layers on, instant mould you press onto the base and wait for it to cool, silicon you build the box and pour it all in. Remelt sounds a lot like the instant mould I've been reading about, what's it like for details?

>>51189032
They're scenic bases.

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lies

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>>51189398
It carries detail pretty well. The smaller bases are 25mm; if I had paid more attention to not bubbling the plastic it would've turned out perfect.

>>51189507

If you are getting Army Painter matching problems, it might be because they just updated their paint series. If you'll notice the bottles have a HEXAGON swatch for the color. They used to have a "paint splat" swatch.

Most of the new colors still match their old primers, but some may not, which sucks. I still use old Uniform Grey but I'm about to run out so I hope their new Uniform Grey still matches.

>>51188865
Guess I should... good call. I just really dislike the models

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>>51178046
works beautifully

>>51178227
This looks awesome. I really like how you took the stripe all the way down the curvature of the vertical sail support posts, gives it sort of a catseye agate refractive look.

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Alright, finally finished the bases for my first Skitarii squad.

What's so special about the Gyrinx?

>>51190317
Only special thing I see about it is that it might be a teaser for that rumored Eldar trio pack and that it might be on the base of one of them.

>>51190317
>>51190373
It was also historically a bit of cool Eldar fluff that had one rareish and expensive model (that just looked like a regular cat, really) that had been produced in the RT days in limited amounts

>>51190607
>>51190373
I see. Makes sense. Wonder why I haven't seen them in the FF Rogue Trader more. Definitely seems like something a captain might try and get.

>>51174535
What kind of red? Use squig orange for highlights.

I go like this for my farsight army and it looks pretty good (IMO)
Khorne red base, mephiston red layer (edging) then squig orange layer (finer edging)

>>51176034
walmart will order and ship to store free. But it probably is at walmart. If you haven't already stop being a sperg and talk to one of those soulless dead eyed employees that work there.

>>51176034
I found it in the automotive section.

how on earth do i apply shoulder pad decals without creases?

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Does anyone have any experience with Warcolours?
If so, how are the coloured metallics in particular?

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>>51173904
Looks like the old Dark Eldar scheme.

>>51191173
using decal softener and setter.
Micro Sol and Micro Set by MicroScale are probably used the most.

>>51191260
I own a complete set, but I haven't used them much yet, beyond painting up their swatches for easy identification.
They have a pretty nice consistency and really don't separate very much, they're quite stable paints.

>>51191311
Thanks, good to hear.
If it works out I'll be needing a lot of the red.

>>51191508
You'll want to deepen the red a little bit with a nice red wash, it's quite pink-ish because of the amount of bright silver flake in the paint. It's not gem-stone red on its own.

>>51191508
Thousand Sons, uh? If you don´t mind, could you give a report when you use it? I´m working in a AL army, and even when Tamiya metallic blue looks really good, is a bitch to work with.

So is Agrax Earthsade and Agrax Earthshade Gloss the same thing? I didn't even realize there was a gloss on the bottle and am wondering if it's the samething just a different name? I don't wanna have to buy another bottle.

>>51191598
Thanks for the tip.

>>51191635
I also don't like working with Tamiya.
I suggest - if you haven't already done so - that you take a look at Vallejo gunmetal blue.
It's a very similar colour.

>>51191822
It's different.
The gloss is primarily for use with metallic, to help them keep their sheen.

>>51191863
WELL fuck.

>>51191635
Have you tried Vallejo Model Air Arctic Blue?
It's a deep metallic blue, that's pretty easy to work with.
Or one of the metallic blues from Warcolors.

>>51191822
They are essentially the same wash, but the normal version dries really matte, the gloss one does not and stays shiny.

>>51189557
It does, I'm using he new one

>>51190857
Can confirm we sell it as a soulless dead eyed employee, its in the automotive section.

>>51187957
Really needs something on his chest. As you said, the etched brass would be a good addition, or even the chaos star you get for tanks. For the belt clip, not sure there. I like this model alot, not using the should pads makes it look better, and the crotch plating is dumb so losing it for the tabbard is already much cooler to me.
Shame that these suits didn't exist during the Heresy...

I wanna start painting minis, would a pack of Reaper skellies be a good thing to start on?

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Painting Blood Angel scouts, the old school metal ones. I need a colour to offset the red armour for pants etc. Suggestions?

>>51194989

Just get the metal Reaper ones instead of Reaper Bone's wiggly rubbery poly crap.