/wip/ - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

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I think it came out okay.

>>50572982

I'm digging the themo optic camouflage effect but I think you'll want to go with a much thinner effect. I thought it was fire at first.

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Now I need to figure out what the fudge I'm going to do for her base.

>>50573059
Yeah, I ended up using way too thick of a brush and of paint. Once I have more stealth suits to work with I'll be able to make it a little more subtle.

>>50572982
Pretty sweet. The overall non-stealth scheme looks good, too.

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Just got home from work and my Secret Santa gift was waiting for me!

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>>50573198
A very nice hand written note from Virginia Anon.

>>50573198
omg Im excited.
what is it??

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>>50573230
And the gift itself! I am so blown away by all this stuff! Theres a set of awesome blue and white dice, two d20s and a d6, six Super Dungeon Explorer minis, two really cool looking vintage minis, two DnD minis, some snow trees and the Big Man himself! Wow this is such a great gift, really perfect as I don't play 40k and Reaper minis are my favorite. I cant wait to paint some of the Super Dungeon minis, they look great.

>>50573305
$7.85 worth of rape. (Seriously though, I'm excited to see what it is too!)

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>>50573338
Heres a close up of the Big Man, this is pretty good for only a couple weeks of painting, far better then when I was new to the hobby. I was just thinking recently that I wanted a mini ornament for my tree, so I think thats what I'll do with this guy. He will forever keep my Christmas tree free from evil!

Virginia-Anon really, thank you so much. Nail on the head, great gift, I really appreciate this. Happy Holidays to you!

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>>50573433
One more, just for fun. Seriously, thanks again.

>>50573504
>>50573433
>>50573338
That's awesome!

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progress

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calling these lil shitlords finished. mostly a test for the basing anyway.

>>50573198
>>50573230
>>50573338
>>50573433
>>50573504
Glad you enjoy it, anon!
The 2 random minis are santa's elves

How do I seal something so I don't lose the purposeful metalic sheen of my mini without making everything look glossy?

I have a metalic red SM army that I'm working and I'm bit at a loss on how to seal the damn things

>>50573895

Satin varnish is probably the way you want to go.

>>50573895
you could use gloss varnish and just apply matte varnish by hand on those areas that are not supposed to be glossy. Or the other way around.

>>50572982
very unique

>>50573090
What body is this?

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>>50572904
Need some wisdom for getting a good saw for models /tg/

Im going to be chopping up a couple expensive models soon and I plan to get a hobby saw as i dont want to use a hobby knife.

Ive heard the GW saws are a ripoff and you can get the same much cheaper at a hardware store, so what would i be looking for?

>>50574963
sisters of silence, probably a superior

>>50574981
Jewler's saw works well as does a basic hack saw

>>50572982
Octo Camo, huh?
You're pretty good.

>>50573528
Genestealers came and took errr jawbs!

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to the guys following my entry to the painting comp- it didnt win. i'm not too fussed though because it was an average paintjob of a pretty shitty model, i think if i'd entered
>>50573528
i would have done better.
heres the winner, anyway.

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>>50575287

>>50575287
Unluck anon.
Whilst I wasn't a fan of gigantism super robot power armor roman guy, you did something original and interesting.

Entering Knights and Wraith Knights was a dick move and your mini was better by virtue.

"Bigatures" should always be either not allowed or have their own category in competitions.
Dreadnought sized models should be the limit. anything bigger is a larger canvas, a wider goal to shoot into in my opinion.

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>>50575314
i think this one was the winner, it was kind of unclear which knight it was.

this was the winner of the under 18's category

>>50546076

D&G anon if you're reading this mail me at trypticon at gmail to fix the spru issue! (sorry)

Hey guys I'm looking to start a smaller force of lamenters and was wondering if anyone had a good method for painting their yellow?

>>50575874
by mixing yellow pigment with the blood of their fallen brothers.

Rhode Island, if you're reading this I sent your shit

maan, seeing all the nice notes people are sending makes me regret shitposting on my note.

>>50576206
Yeah man, cunt doesn't have to be your default setting. That's a real /v/, /pol/ and /b/ mentality.

Be critical where it's required but don't try and be a twat for the sake of it, unless it's going to legitimately make people laugh.

On the other hand, if you're receiving a present from 4chan, expect there to be a good chance it will come with shitposting.

>>50576257
Its not like I sent a piece of rope with instructions to hang themselves with it - I just apologized for taking out a part of the gift, and insinuated that it wouldn't matter because they wont play the game anyway.

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>>50576292

right...

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Got all the Otherworld Miniatures were-creatures for cheap on eBay, so I've been painting them up. The were tiger will be a challenge though, I've tried and failed before at painting tiger stripes. Got any tips on that?

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>>50576488
Not sure why a wereboar would use a halberd, though.

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>>50576512
Also bonus hyenodon from Ral Partha. I enjoy painting extinct animals, because I get to make up my own patterns, but still have to keep it plausible.
Also I really need to finish that Groucho Marx someday.

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I'm currently building an IG veteran squad, outfitting them with shotguns from the SM Scouts sprews.

I'm kinda happy of how it's turning out!

Hey /wipg/, I got myself a Chaos Mammoth as a christmas treat which I want to paint over the holidays. However, I don't have much experience in painting fur (which is ~80% of this model).

I wanted to do the following:
prime
basecoat
wash
several drybrushing steps
and some highlighting

Any advice/cool tutorials? I have an airbrush, but just got it recently as well so am not that good at working with it yet.

>>50576560
They look ridiculously oversized, but honestly that just makes it feel more 40K. It's cool.

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Just finished the one on the left, which uses my current color scheme. The one on the right was the last one I did for what I am considering switching.

Any thoughts?

>>50576574
Yeah, I feared it might look too over the top, but I think this is just right.

I kinda want to find a way to have shotgun shells on the bases but I'm not exacty sure how I would make that tho.

>>50576568
Fur is pretty easy. I do a basecoat of black, and then another with a dark color. Rinox Hide for reddish fur, Dryad Bark for a more drab colour. Then I drybrush a lighter brown, and then another drybrush layer of the previous colour with a little white in it on elevated areas. The key is to not have too much paint left of the brush. If more contrast is needed, I use some wash in the cracks and crevices.

>>50576622
Try cutting a plasticard rod or thick rubber wire into cylinders, that might work.

>>50576597
That's a lot of red, it gets kinda monotonous. If I were you, I'd paint the hair white instead.

>>50576622
>>50576637
i reckon do three or four shells per model and stuck them on their sleeves or belts as well, like how people carry extra shotgun shells

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Also painted this Pulp adventurer. I've never painted cleavage before, it's surprisingly hard.

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>>50576664
yeah I was thinking about that too, I'll have to try the rubber wires as >>50576637 mentioned.
I'll probably use a bit of green stuff over it to make it look like that too.

In theory that should work, but that may be a bit minute.

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>>50576690
Back view. The pants aren't quite done.

>>50576649

It's funny that you suggest that because my old scheme actually has white hair. I went with brown on both to try and stay away from the clichéd white.

I guess it's unavoidable.

>>50576724
Alternatively you could make them blonde, or just make the hair more vivid. It's kinda hard to tell from your photo since everything looks red in it.

>>50576750

Could be the light. Maybe. However, everything could be red. I'm actually R/G colorblind, so there could be a red shade that I am not seeing.

I'm doing my best.

>>50576771
Yeah, but even the white parts look pink.
I think brown hair could work, it you just highlight it more. It needs contrast to pop. That's a very nice colour scheme, though.

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>>50576786

Thanks.

Which one are we talking about?

Here they are in some different light. I honestly don't see the red hue, but again I might not be ABLE to see it. Still, I'll go over the white again. It's always been a pain.

Alright lads, quick question, is it enough to put female victoria mini heads on cadian bodies for some guard variation or are the limbs and specifically the hands/shoulders going to stick out and be weird looking?

>>50573338
Wow, those purple minis look cute as hell. Please paint and post them in here.

For anyone with the Exalted Sorcerers kit: how hard do you think it would be to remove the bird feet from the floating one and rescued normal boots?

>>50573552
Nice. I always loved the familiar set.

>>50577175
I got some of the victoria mini heads and a bunch of cadians I'm building. If you can wait til tonight I can show you how it looks. I must say that I haven't tried it yet. Supposedly it looks fine.

>>50577293

yeah man that'd be mint.

>>50576846
>>50576750
>>50576771

Honestly, i don't think having the actual hair as part of the color scheme is a good idea for humans. It looks super strange if they all have the same hair color.

How picky should I be about asking forgeworld if they can send me some replacement parts? I've just made my first order from them and have recieved two tech pritest and a warhound titan from them and a few of the pieces of the latter are missing details or have some damage.
>plasma blastgun has only one rivet formed properly and has a reasonably large hole in the arm socket all the way through
>the upper legs are missing quite a few rivets and the detail is not formed on the four cogs on each side of them
>the reactor control room is a mess, half the keypad isnt formed properly and most of the other details look like theyve been slightly melted

I showed it to my friend and he said it looks like the mold they used is wearing out. Is this typical for forgeworld, should I ask if they can send me new bits?

>>50577395
Always ask if it's legit FW. Send proper photos and they'll handle it. No point in spending 100s of $ for shit quality.

>>50577395
hell, i ordered a krieg platoon and when i got 3x infantry squads and 2x officer squads instead of 4x and 1, i emailed them asking if i should send one back to swap. they apologised, sent me out an infantry squad and a veteran upgrade pack with no postage fee

>>50577395
How much is that titan again?
If there is something missing or is damaged, complain right away. You paid good money for that stuff so it should be in good condition.

Just send them a couple of pics with stuff you think isn't ok and they will replace them.

>>50577428

It came to £394 with the two priests. I really like the model apart from the missing bits.
>>50577416
>>50577423
Ok, thank you.

On a related note, does anyone have a parts list for what should be included? The instructions I recieved with it are terrible, it's 3 pieces of doublesided, low quality photos of what you need to build after assembly, and there's no inventory to it other than for the toes. I'm not sure if I'm missing anything, I've checked but I have no reference to base it on.

>>50577395
Forgeworld has always been stellar when it comes to customer service. Include photos if you can, and they'll sort it out ASAP.
Especially with Titans you do not need to make compromises.

>>50577449
just refer the item to the item on the invoice they send you.

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Does the exhaust look okay? I've never had to do anything like it before.

>>50577701
The part billowing out at the base like a cloud of smoke should probably be painted more like a cloud of smoke, with the black sooty smokiness then also creeping up the shaft a bit.

>>50575233
Solid Shas'vre

Hey guys, how noxious are Auclad air paints? I found a wonderful tutorial on YouTube for my Thousand Sons force, but I'm worried about the paints themselves.

I was originally going to use Vallejo air gold paints, and a clear tamiya red finish. But I love the sheen of these paints so much more. My main problem is that I am painting in a very large closet. I don't have any windows, and the only real ventilation or protection I would have would be a respirator.

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>>50577756
Like this anon? I understand what you are saying but i'm not sure how to go about painting that.

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I'm making my Tau army as a "Renegade Tau" faction. They know what the Ethereals are up to, so they've broken away from the Empire, but still believe in a "Greater Good" that they want to see realised. The general idea is that they can be sometimes be spotted on the outskirts of battles or found behind enemy lines conducting sabotage and assassination missions etc
Because they all came from the Empire, they have standard equipment that they have tweaked, maintained and modified themselves. So how can I represent this in a paint scheme? I was thinking of painting them like normal Tau, then weathering them quite heavily, pitting armour and scarring weapons, then putting a slash of red through the Caste symbols on their armour. Does anyone think it would look good?

>>50577974
More like that, yes. You can probably just go all black instead of the gradient to grey. As for how, I'd start looking around online for others who have made this stuff look good, and then try to do whatever they did.

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Hey /wip/ I was wondering if anyone knows what GW colors I should get to match the Sevara from Dawn of war, I've been trying to come to grips for a good necron color scheme and i love this green look

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>>50577974
I would go for something like this personally.

>>50578018
So farsight enclaves?

>>50574981
You want a Jewelers saw for sure.

>>50578064
Kinda, yeah. But they are just a small independent militant faction. I could fluff it up a bit and make it so they grab the attention of the Farsight Enclaves. But I prefer the idea of a small, self sustaining quasi-guerrilla force.

>>50578018
You and I are working across very similar lines. I just didn't put sept markings on my dudes, though some of that is unwillingness to mess it up. Consider doing something like a drybrushed or painted on scratch effect on your markings instead of just a red slash, I think it'd look better.

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>>50578047
It's not GW, but prime with this and wash it down with your preferred black wash.

>>50578100
Do you have an example by any chance? The red slash, in my eyes, is a bit more symbolic.

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>>50578018
Hello?
No i'm at the battlefield right now...
You want me to pick up what?
Okay darling i'll pick it up after I kill off these Gue'la.

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>>50578127
Into the folder that one goes.

>>50576292

That is actually pretty funny! Because, as you say, its a part of the bitter truth of most /tg/´s mathhammer experts. The guys who knows it all, but never actually play the game, to busy complaining on the expensive hobby they are in (when not really buying stuff for the past 6 years).

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I have a friend who owns a 3D printer, and I am planning to get me the big new army deal of Orruks from GW. The problem is, I hate the giant, he is simply to generic and has no character at all. And to ad to this, he don't fit the theme of Ironjawz one bit!

Now to my question, do you think it would be possible to make an armor out of 3D printing, and how would you design it?
I have in mind a huge classic 40k Ork skull, hanging from straps. Perhaps make one hand chopped of and replaced with a combat claw, permanently attached. And some form of shoulder pad and jaw-protection (typical Ironjawz style).
I have searched the internet, and came out squat, people don't generally convert their giant with armor I guess.

So heres the challenge /tg/, how would you go about it? Remember, nothing is impossible as far as bits go.

>>50573198

Do we seriously have *two* anons (>>50573230 says "Tim", and that is not the name I sent to, nor is >>50573198 a picture of the package I sent) here in /WIP/ that are from North Chesterfield, VA? I wonder if those ladz know each other...

>>50578237
>make an armor out of 3D printing
That mostly depends on the printing technique. With something like SLA it can look cool, FDM will look like shit tho.

If I were you I'd look into plasticard. It's really easy to make cool looking metal plates with it. You can bend it while applying heat to get some curves on your armor platings too.

>>50578331
If the other anon frequents Battlegrounds, there could have been a chance encounter.

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Some more warzone for the pile, got a Praetorian Goliath and his little imp buddy to lead my horde of extra-dimensional horrors to battle. Along with a Praetorian Behemoth for his building throwing action!(batteries not included).

Also in pieces are more Praetorian Stalkers, one squad of ranged and one squad of close combat armed mu'fuggas. Once they're put together I'll be able to run a purely praetorian army, I don't imagine it'll succeed very well, but the novelty will be enough for me

>>50578237
You'll get it done easier, cheaper and better if you just get some putty, plasticard, and get busy doing it by hand.

>>50578127
Audibly lol'd

TN anon, just stuck the shipping label on your package! Should hit your place in a couple of days.

>>50577850
Alclads are lacquer paints, so they're incredibly toxic. Don't breathe unless you're OK with permanant chromosome damage.

>>50578237
This is almost as dumb as the time a guy wanted to do foliage and trees with 3D printing. Just learn to sculpt by hand, you lazy idiot.

>>50577850
Alclad paints are volatile, to put it mildly.
They look amazing, but they're really unpleasant from a chemical perspective.

Also, if you're going to use them, don't use them in an airbrush you've previously used for acrylic paints.
If there's any acrylic residue left in the brush it can gunk up beyond recovery.
I own a few alclad paints, and actually use a dedicated airbrush just for them. No other paints touch that brush.

>>50576512
maybe cause it kinda looks like fantasy woodcutter axe and they'd both be found in the forest?

>>50578541
Basically this.

I have no doubt that someone with lots of experience with 3D-Printers and 3D-design could produce a proper and good looking armor, but Anon, as a total beginner: no chance.

Get some basic kitbash materials and start building it from plasticcard.

>>50576488
>Got any tips on that?
Use a reference.
Paint the color variation in the animals coat first and do the stripes last. Always use a reference.

>>50578237
I know for a fact that the GW studio has at least one giant converted with armor, because he was used in a bunch of WD battle reports.
You'd have to go back to around the time when the model was released to find that stuff though. They always did a bunch of stuff on how you could convert the models and things like that back then too.

And are some good cheap models and paint to get some practice with before I move on to painting my wargaming minis with good paints?

>>50580242
try going to your local shop and picking some stuff up from the cheap bin

>>50580242
Look into Reaper Bones, each mini is a couple bucks, decent detail, perfect to practise on and not feel bad if it turns out horrible.

>>50580284
I mostly only have big box stores by me for hobby shit. The game shops are a longer drive.

>>50580339
Thanks, any recommendations on cheaper but not complete shit paints?

>>50580242
Cheapest stuff is properly "Reaper Bones". Depending on where you come from you might be able to find them for around $2 for human sized minis.
Problem is they are plastic minis so stripping them might be a bit complicated (but it can be done).

If you really want to practice i recommend to pick up a couple of metal minis. There are plenty of companies (Reaper i already named, they also do metal minis) available. Buy 2 or 3 minis for around $3-6 each and paint them. After that you can simply drop them into Acetone to get the paint off and then you can paint them again.. and again.. and again. The metal won't get harmed by the cleaning process at all.
You also could look at ebay for stuff like "Warhammer job lot" or "bitz box" or "pro painted" and if you are lucky you can get a large number of minis for really low prices there. Some might be painted already (if metal, stripping the paint off is super easy as i explained) but most of the time you get alot of unpainted or only primed minis you could use to train.

Besides, i recommend to use your "good paints" for your practice already. Using cheap paint will only result in a bad painting experience. Use proper stuff.

>>50578442
okay whos scythey mcscythe?

>>50580372
>Thanks, any recommendations on cheaper but not complete shit paints?

Vallejo, Army Painter, Scale75, P3, Reaper, they all do pretty good Acrylic paint on the same level as Games Workshop (some colors are even better than their GW equivalent).
But they are all cheaper than GW.

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>first day since the 1st that I had time to go to my flgs
>gonna get the secret santa gift
>get there
>"closed until the 9th"
>well fuck, don't worry anon, I'll pick whatever shipping gets you the gift before Christmas

>>50580372
>Thanks, any recommendations on cheaper but not complete shit paints?
Not the other guy, but Army Painter comes to mind.
Kev Dallimore, the studio painter for Northstar Miniatures and a few others uses them. If you google his name his page should pop up.
Paints are cheap, not bad though.

Though I kind of agree with using your 'regular paints', i.e. the ones you plan on using later anyway.
Citadel paints are thicker and take longer to dry than Vallejo paints for example. Feels quite a bit different to be painting with a different manufacturer sometimes.

>>50577701
>>50577974
>>50578061
What's the model?

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Ahriman progress. its one of those models where it looked so much harder to paint than it was. I probably have only spent 1 full hour painting it.

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>>50580473
Fucking iPad lieing to me saying its portrait when it posts the photo in landscape.

>>50580493
paints a bit thick on the helmet.
Shading on the cloth bits is too defined, like you can see where there was some more wash than other areas.

>>50580452
>>50580412
>>50580387

I was planning on using Citadel paint for my 40k models and Vallejo for my Infinity models. I might just practicing with the Vallejo if it's cheaper.

Do you have any recommendations for a good primer?

Also, can't I just use simple green for stripping plastic minis?

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>>50577701
I'd expect something like this, with more fire towards the exhaust.

>>50580572
>was planning on using Citadel paint for my 40k models and Vallejo for my Infinity models.
There is no reason not to use both brands on all models.

>>50580572
>I was planning on using Citadel paint for my 40k models and Vallejo for my Infinity models.

There is literally no reason at all to not use either brand for all of your minis.
The way you want to do it you'll buy twice the paint. Just sayin.

>Also, can't I just use simple green for stripping plastic minis?

You can. But it takes some time and scrubbing.

>Do you have any recommendations for a good primer?

Vallejo has good primer (both brush-on and rattle can)
Army painter has good rattle can primer as well

Avoid "Imperial primer" by GW.

>>50576690
>>50576706
thiccc

>>50580599
>>50580603
Which paint brand would you recomend going with? CB uses vallejo for their official paint jobs and the GW obviously uses Citadel which it why I was going to go with one or the other? Do both of the paints look them same and have the same colors? Which is higher quality? When it comes to airbrushes and actual brushes are both of them good at both?

>>50580693
one for each I mean

>>50580693
If you want to airbrush i recommend Vallejo, since they have a dedicated Airbrush line. (two in fact).
GW has "air" paints too, but i'm not sure if they are as easily to get or only via their online store.

Vallejo is cheaper, has better containers (dropper bottles instead of badly designed pots) and you get 17ml instead of 12ml.

Color wise they are compareable. There are charts to see which paint is which for each company. For example:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

If you can get Vallejo just as easy as GW paint, its a no brainer to get mainly Vallejo. I say mainly because there is also no reason at all to not use a couple of paints from other companies as well if you like them or if you feel they might look better. GW washes for example are awesome and so are some of their blues.

>>50580493
looks fucking rad

>>50580693
>When it comes to airbrushes and actual brushes are both of them good at both?
If you want to airbrush go Vallejo.
Both are good paints though.
Regular GW paints tend to clog airbrushes from what I hear. The FW paints are good though. But then again Vallejo also sells specialized airbrush paints, but their regular paints work better in one already.

Anway, higher quality is hard to say. Generally speaking it will depend on the color. Most notably yellows and metallic paints tend to vary wildly in quality.

Personally I'd recommend Vallejo paints and supplemental washes from Army Painter or GW to start out with. Depending on how you actually paint you'll have to set your own focus.
Be warned though the GW paint system is kind of 'patronizing'.
Stuff like the dry paints are a waste of money.
And the layer paints will be translucent.

Whereas the Vallejo paints are just paints. You can thin them to use in a glaze or drybrush them as you would with any old regular paint too.

So if you plan to stick with GW's official paint recipes for convenience and have not experience whatsoever I guess there is something to be said for a company taking you by the hand to that degree.

Depends on what you want though.

>>50573198
>>50573230
>>50573338
>>50573433
>>50573504
You should run a campaign with Santa as BBEG now.

>>50580811
>A barbarian warlord with the aid of an evil scholar working as his adviser and shaman has located, killed, and assumed the power of an ancient saint who lives at the top of the world, inheriting it through a clause in his magic

>>50580761
>>50580798
Is there any issues with me mixing brands of paints on the same model?

Do you guys paint your models before assembling them or assemble them and then paint them?

>tfw package hasn't come
I know I shouldn't be worried about not getting one already but I am

>>50580869
>Is there any issues with me mixing brands of paints on the same model?

Not at all, I frequently mix vallejo and GW paints on my stuff. As for assembly, I usually partially assemble it (anything that doesn't block my painting access) before painting it as it gives me a larger area to hold it.

>>50580869
>Is there any issues with me mixing brands of paints on the same model?

Not at all. You can even mix Vallejo with GW paint (or other brands, as long as its acrylic paint) on your palette if you want.


>Do you guys paint your models before assembling them or assemble them and then paint them?

Depends on the model. Personally i assemble before i paint. Sometimes i leave some parts off if its easier to paint them seperate, for example Boltguns of Space marines if they are held across the breastplate or the backpacks. In general, if the mini has an "open" pose i assemble them completely.

Other people might prefer different ways of assembling/painting but thats really just personal preference. You will find out what works best for you once you painted a couple of minis either way.

Is it still possible to send any anons secret santa gifts? Had some really rough shit go on the past few weeks (heroin addict boss killing a dog, leading to me quitting job, $ stolen) and i was really looking forward to sending something out. If not, theres always next year i suppose.

>>50578397

I have seen what he can do, and he has already printed out a ton of conversion bits to other models (wheels for the Taurox, custom bunkers, custom bases with typical 40k debris, even some whole models, granted it was with varied result). So to print out an armor with the stuff he´s got shouldn't be a problem at all the way I see it.

>>50578541

> Cheaper and better

The dude will do it for me, its not even a cost Ill have to cover.

>>50579247

Again, who the fuck said he was a beginner with the 3D printer? He´s had one for a good year now and prints all kinds of shit. Most of the stuff he makes he creates with some computer program (to advanced for someone like me to find it interesting), and he generally makes pretty cool stuff.

>>50578932

>I'm butthurt because me or my friends will never afford a 3D printer... buhu... more whine... buhu...
>Your lazy and an idiot for knowing someone who owns one!

Butthurt much?


>5 answers, none directed at the question at hand

Keeping it classy /tg/

>>50580929
>>50580931
Thanks for the help.

>>50581036
If you know everything better, why do you even ask here? Go ask your friend and if he is as good with his printer he certainly can help you better than anyone in here.

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Is there any other hull extension kit for the stormraven besides the Chapterhouse one? They seem to be dead in the water and I'd really like to have something similar to it. No recaster has taken a fancy to the kit?

>>50580901
Same

>>50580985
Remember you from last thread. Check it out, some other anon who missed it is setting up secret Santa part 2, he posted his E-Mail in last thread. Think he said 4-5 entries thus far

>>50580493
Your iPad reads the metadata that tells it which way to orient the photo, 4Chan doesn't. Resaving (as I assume you did) it is the only way.

>>50580901
>>50581342
Chill out you shaky fucks.

I was told my postage would get to its destination on the 8th, i.e almost a week later, and that's just from France to Sweden. Imagine if you're sending something to the other side of the world, it'll take much longer.

>>50581457
Im not worried that nothing will arrive, rather getting more and more excited with every picture posted here.

I'm planning on writing text on the sides of my tanks and on my guardsmen - can anyone recommend a white fine-tip pen that will work well with the GW black primer or give me any alternatives because I'm not that sure what I'm looking for/ what will work

>>50581457
I just posted mine from Ontario to Illinois and it looks like it'll be taking something like 8 business days or something along those lines. just a heads up, this shit takes a while if you're not near each other.
that's why it's called snail mail, folks.

>>50581487
>rather getting more and more excited with every picture posted here.

This honestly. I love to see a couple pics each days of other peoples gifts

>>50581487
100%. Can't wait to see the pictures of what I sent get posted.

>>50580985
I remember you too. I'm in Armpit, Ontario and was hoping to send a lil box of goodies out to someone.

Anyone know about Secret Santas: Electric Boogaloo?

>>50582121
See>>50581380

>>50582154
>>50582121
Im up for a Secret Santa im solihull anon

>>50582121
>>50581380
>>50580985
>>50582306


Official SS anon here, my email account (WIP-secret-santa-2016 AT yandex DOT com) is still valid and i could match you guys up if you want and if enough of you would write me. I've seen that other Anon posting his email address but thats not me, just saying.

>>50580901
Mine its gone to take probably 2 full weeks to get to the stockholm anon, so i expect to arrive between 15-18 of this month.

>>50582121
>>50581380
Awesome. Maybe that'll cheer me up.

Made some Gue'vesa on a more thread related topic. Cheap ones, but they are just more to add onto my Kroot-led fire warrior squad(s)

>>50581995
Fucking this. I hope everyone receiving post their gifts.

>>50582342
>>50582359
>>50582306


Oh cool. Are we tagging ourselves with names? I guess depressedanon identifies too many people, NCanon will have to do.

>>50582395
Tracking says it was delivered Monday
Didn't see it posted
I hope lurker anon at least liked it

>>50577175
I'm finally home, give me a few minutes to show you what it looks like if you're still around.

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>>50582468
yeah still here

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Thanks to the anon who suggested snow on the bases. Pleased with the outcome and the contrast.

>>50582342
emailed from Armpit-Anon

>>50580458
Merris Lacroix from Malifaux

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>>50582564
Pardon the terrible photo quality. It's definitely mot a perfect fit, but it's adequate.

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Started the blood bowl box. Heres the test model nearly done beside his not so done doppleganger

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>>50582564
And here's the rest of the sprew. Also sorry for not resizing the images

>>50583124
Alright, nice I think I could live with this Thanks anon.

>>50582342
emailed

I'm looking to get back into mini painting after dropping it several years ago.

Can I get any recommendations on good beginner brushes?

>>50583342
Army Painter has a nice line of cheap, clearly labeled brushes for beginners. You can find them at pretty much any place other than GW that sells wargaming supplies.

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>>50572904

Homemade Skyshield Landing Pad final update. I'm calling it done before it strays into over-designed territory. It's also finals week so I can't give much more time to it for now. Here's how it looks after its inaugural game. Pretty happy with it overall and I got to experiment with new techniques too which was why I started the project in the first place. Would anyone be interested in a build album? I have all of the pictures from the build saved.

>>50578092
im doing something like this with orks...they have been in a sector that was fought over by humans and tau during the democles crusade so they have a lot of surplus imperium and tau gear. But they dont have much contact with other orks

Are there any good guides out there to painting things to look like outer space, galaxies, etc on minis?

Good place to get weathering pigments?

>>50583710
"next level painting" on youtube has a tutorial about it. He uses an airbrush though.

>>50582728
Great work.

>>50583710
I dont know any, but there is an anon with a nice galaxy themed dark eldar army. I feel like he airbush soft tones on to black and then ad the star with a brush but im not sure. Stick around and meaby he will give you advice.

>>50583750

I just have normal brushes but I'll check that out thanks. Really I'm mostly looking for some guidance on making the stars and such.

>>50583813

Fingers crossed!

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>>50583813
>>50583857
Oh that might be me!
If you mean these ones

>>50582342
NCanon bout to email you.

Any vague outlines of what folks here would like? Razor blades and pots of paint? Or are the anons sending more specific stuff, hoping we get a hit on their interests? Any deadlines of sending? Like i said, been out of touch for a lil while

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>>50583935
Or these

>>50583949
The actual deadline was Dec 1st to make sure everyone gets their stuff before 24th.

Since this would be some kind of "2nd wave" with not as many participants i doubt a wishlist makes much sense. In the 1st wave some people wrote me some wishes and others wrote what they plan to gift so i tried to match when it was possible but with like 5 people now i don't think that will work out.

>>50583949
Some anons sent whole sprues
I sent a single mini I couldn't afford a whole lot

A mini or something would be best, people can post progress on it

>>50583949
>>50584040

Someone got a bunch of sculpting materials too which also is nice i guess.
Maybe add some Christmas-related sweets and a nice letter if you can't afford big amounts of plastic. But keep in mind that huge gifts are not the goal of this anyway.

>>50582342

I'm the other anon... trypticon at gmail, I've only sent out 2 parcels, one for the original SS and the second for another. I had two other people email and we back and forthed, then they just stopped, who knows why.

Let me know if you get an odd amount of people, you can put me again if you like!

>>50584088
Hm. I make a really good Chex Mix kind of thing, pecans and pretzels, cashews and all that jazz with Worcestershire. I hope anon isnt allergic.

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>>50584125
You don't have to of course but if you want in for a 3rd time then drop me a message. I can't find your email in my messages so i don't have your address (well, probably i have, but i don't know which one it is at this point).

I'll wait until around tomorrow afternoon (Dec 8th) to give more people a chance to join in for the "2nd wave"

Also pic related, so its official.

>>50584395
TFW whant to join but likely couldn't pay for shipping.

I have bits to ship, just money is really bad this month.

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got some work done on my marines. the command squad needs some more work and barrel drilling then i can get them primed. drilled barrels on death company, done some fitting and rifining on my landraider and the paint onassualt squad is also making progress.

also, does anyone here has any experience with Nihilakh Oxide from GW, how is it, do you like it, did it give nice results? i use a slab of marble (made from a leftover balustrade piece from a 40k building) as the front piece reinforced armour on my predator wich is framed with gold/brass. i think making the frame look oxidated and old makes it look even more like an ancient holy relic

>>50584395
Just sent my address, got set of firestorm armada models in a raffle hopefully someone here will enjoy them!

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Here I've got a beefy heavy guy for a character I'm working on, a dwarf with a flag/mattock that I'm going to do up like the Minnesota Vikings logo for part of my father's Christmas gift, and a man I'm assembling out of random pieces and leftovers I have from a Sigmar sprue I bought for tower shields.

>>50584572
Thin the Nihilakh with medium, it's easy to overdilute with water but if you use it straight out of the pot you will get a very heavy effect. I painted it into recesses and only used it like a wash on very detailed areas, building up the effect over a few layers.

Don't use it with gold, it won't look right. Bronze/Brass it will look great.

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Finally took some (admittedly shitty) pictures of my WIP Warmachine Retribution stuff. Originally was gonna try for an Alpha Legion-style scheme, but I found a nice metallic turquoise and figured I might as well use it.

Biggest things, outside of getting a better light set-up, would be

a) Shading the metals on the shoulderpads. They're nice when light's on them, but otherwise kinda flat. I've tried both Nuln Oil and Coelia Greenshade washes (on another test mini), and neither really shaded the way I wanted them to. Considering a dark blue wash, but haven't put paint to brush yet; and

b) As you can see on a couple of them, I went for a gold trim, and I'm not really feeling it. I've also tried silver on the one's armblades, and that's still not doing it for me either.

1/4

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>>50584764
2/4

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>>50584780
3/4

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>>50584800
4/4

>>50583031
Ok, thanks.

>>50580393
He's the Praetorian Goliath and next to him is his little friend the Praetorian Imp. It's a commander level character in the Dark Legion army for the game Mutant Chonicles: Warzone: Resurrection. He's a pretty big guy, standing at just over 60mm tall he twice the height of most human infantry.

Would make a good proxy for a 40k Daemon Prince if you were so inclined.

>>50580493
it is called thinning your fucking paints. do it.

Hey guys what GW glossy wash goes best with Retributor Armour? Reikland or the other brown shit?

>>50585003
riekland looks warmer, and is all and all better then agrax.

Another question, does anyone here have any experience with the Winsor and Newton Galeria brushes? That shit is all my local Michaels stocks up on, nowadays.

>>50585039

Ok thanks, I'll get that stuff this week.

>>50584764
trying using a more yellow gold, I'd say? it looks like you're using Rhulic Gold; I wouldn't say that that's a good option, because the red in it is about the same shade as your blue which isn't creating a very good contrast.

Anyone got pics of Gue'vesa wip's or kitbashings i can use for inspiration while i glue these last few pieces? Will post pics when done.

Also does anyone know a size comparison of a Tau Broadside and an Imperial Guard Chicken strider?

>>50585109
To be honest, I had started with Balthazar Gold and layered with Gehenna's Gold, specifically going for the more reddish-gold for that blue-orange contrast. I can see where you're coming from, though, and why it's not working like I thought it would.

I do have a straight gold from Vallejo, 70.996, that I was considering using, but at the time it had seemed way too bright. I'll try it out next chance I get to paint, and see how it works all together.

>>50577318

I went with white on my original models because the black always looked like shit when I did it.

Pic related is my white haired old model.

I do plan on mixing up the hair colors, though. The two in my picture are mostly test models. Might try to make the red one blonde and see how that goes. Never done it before.

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>>50585563
>>50577318

Fml forgot something

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>>50585176
I have a whole bunch of auxiliaries saved.

These days you have quite a lot more to choose from than kitbashing GW kits though.
For example if you just buy a squad of Gates of Antares Concord troopers and swap their guns for pulse rifles you got some first class Gue'vesa already.

>>50585629
Woo! You da best anon.

>>50582728
looks like sex, I might have to spring for these models.

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>>50585687
So I take it I should post some more?

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>>50585823
I'm kinda serious about GoA though. Check the models out. They'd fit right in with the Tau.

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>>50585865

>>50585274
the painting is good but i never know how i feel about this model. It seems to me like is a bad model with good detail.

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>>50585882

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>>50585902

>>50583935
>>50583964
For being knife-ear asholes, those are pretty fucking awesome. Now could you give us jaghatai khan back? Papa Emps misses his hyper-active biker boy.

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>getting back into paintan my old guardsmen
>either thin paint too much so that it doesn't cover properly or not thin it enough and have it cake
Good thing I stocked up on dettol, this may take a while.

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>>50585923
here's another of the orange lizardmen
>>50585902

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>>50585949

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>>50585964
these are hrud based of their old pre-xenology description. Old skaven models. You could use Veer-min from Mantic for that these days I suppose.
And their Forge Fathers miniatures for Demiurge come to think of it.
Though personally I'm also a big fan of the Hasslefree range of SciFi Dwarves called Grymn. They look badass.

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>>50586001
Someone even converted a Koala alien out of beastmen parts.
I think these would fit in very well with Tau too if you were to make more of them.

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>>50586020
skink conversion.
Also quite effective. Skinks should come cheap over ebay these days.

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>>50586042
another picture of the leonid alien. also converted from beastmen.

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>>50586060
Somebody used OOP starship troopers models

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>>50586076
Somebody even started converting a spare stegadon head into an entire model to stand in as broadside suit

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>>50586125
another take on auxiliaries based on stormvermin

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>>50586180
an enslaver converted from tyranid and chaos spawn bits

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>>50586208
here's a picture of an unpainted one.
I don't want to spam the thread to death so I'll leave it at that.
Hope it helps.

>>50586001
I really like these. I've been trying to keep to the 'three species per squad' (kroot or tau Shas, mix of all three for infantry)so these would really help. Any pics of guardsmen vehicles converted? Ive been considering using a Taurox and replacing the back treads with Devilfish engines, put some skids on the front. Could work with a metal bawks too, i suppose. Dont get me started on the kroot ideas i have...

Too bad nowhere around here sells greenstuff.

>>50586252
Youre the best, anon. Will try and get a good phone pic of the main guys ive got so far.

>>50586393
>Too bad nowhere around here sells greenstuff.
have you tried looking for kneadatite?
It's was GS actually is and it's original use is sealant for plumbing since it cures underwater too.

>>50586449
Yep. We only have 1 LGS within like 50 miles, and apparently getting it online ends up badly for people, something about the two halves being stuck together.

>>50586510
you can buy a more industrial grade version from hardware stores and in my case, the local supermarket, usually just called epoxy resin or 'plumbers putty' it's fairly cheap, but some people say its more toxic. so it's an option, but maybe do some research on it first.

>>50586529
Hm, I'll see about that. I was going to try it, my uncle does plumbing and suggested not to, but i might have to just bite the bullet

>>50581036
Nice projecting, idiot.

>>50579257
I always use a reference, but it's really hard to paint the actual stripes on top of fur texture. So I feel there has to be something I'm missing.

>>50586510
Order online, that's what I do. Way cheaper, too.

>>50586631
it's a bit trickier to use for on-model modelling, i found it most useful for doing terrain. sandbags and stuff.

>>50581341
Scratchbuild your own

>>50580631
>thiccc
paints

The guy at my local game shop recommended board to pieces primer. Has anyone used it before?

>>50586635

aww, cute. Almost a comeback.
Give it a few years and you might actually stop being a newfag around here.

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memed my brother back into 40K conditional on me painting his shit.

>>50587320

Great work so far anon!

How do army painter washes compare to game workshop washes?

>>50587302
Said the puppet show man who thinks 3D printers are magic, and can't come up with any insults that have anything to do with what I'm actually saying. I guess you're gonna call me a poo poo head next.

>>50587248
I'm trying, but yeah, got a bit lazy with the watering. Also some of my paint has gotten lumpy and/or just turned into a clear, citrus-smelling liquid. Happens a lot with Vallejo paints.

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>>50587320

>>50587320
[spoilers]Time to get the power dildos?[/spoiler]

>>50587320
>unpainted sand

This is my trigger. I know it's just WIP though but still.

>>50587512

Vallejo Game Color is especially bad for the separation, but both Vallejo Game and Vallejo Model are thick as fuck too.

My solution has been to stop using them and only use Vallejo Model Air and Vallejo Game Air. No thickness, very easy to fix separation, and no thinning required.

>>50587571
desu I have a bunch of normal sized bases pre-done but this dimension wasn't anticipated.

>>50585067
>Another question, does anyone here have any experience with the Winsor and Newton Galeria brushes? That shit is all my local Michaels stocks up on, nowadays.

Yes. They're OK for cheap brushes (buy them when you can get 40-50% off), but I actually prefer the Royal & Langnickel "ZEN" brushes. Don't expect either one to work any miracles, but damn, they are cheap!

What's a good base for a night lords legion? I've never really done anything beyond sticking some flock onto the base with brown pva.

>>50587846

The problem with NL is basing theory doesn't apply to them. NL are a dark blue, and most paint them as either a fairly dark blue, or at the brightest, a neutral blue. You don't really see very bright NL models.

A dark model requires a light base to create contrast and interest. NLs would look and pop best on a base such as bright desert or snow. But just the sound of that tells you it's a totally bad choice for NLs.

NLs attack from the night and tend to be found on urban campaigns. This mean dark grey, black, bleak bases, among the ruins of hive cities or the black sands of Istvaan. This is going to muddy up the model a bit because you will have a dark model on a dark base. But at least you can create some interesting models if you make very bright lightning, and you can end up with a very stealthy looking, camouflaged chapter, or a chapter of shadowy figures broken up by bright, jagged lightning, and I think that really fits the legion's themes.

>>50587591
I'll try that, thanks. I'm tired of Vallejo's paints being literally unusable even when brand new, or Citadel paints drying up inside their bottles in a couple of months.

>>50587883

That makes sense, color wise. A bright base would look good but would be thematically wrong.

I see a lot of people use cork. Maybe if I paint the cork to look like a broken street? I could maybe put a red wash in the cracks to make it look like blood or something?

I might be going ahead of my capabilities.

>>50587846
night lords like to murder civvies so some sort of urban rubble, tiling, bloodstained marble flooring etc

>>50587930
if you still want to use a GW paint put them into drop bottles, like the Vallejo ones.

>>50587946

See my post above you.

Like that?

>>50587930
>Citadel paints drying up inside their bottles in a couple of months.
>mfw take long unavoidable break from painting
>paints dried up
>don't want to repaint whole army
>have to buy new GW paint to match

I'm just glad my main color isn't GW, but having to buy 3-4 pots again for no reason is dumb.

>>50573338
I have a set of d6 in that scheme. They're fucking awesome.

File: droppers.jpg (366KB, 1652x929px) Image search: [Google]

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>>50587947
this

>>50587930
>>50587964
you can just add a bit of medium and stir, and the paint will be good as new. git gud.

>>50587947
>>50588069

Different anon, but funny enough I was literally about to ask about droppers for GW paint.

Are these good?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V479TVE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1481164126&sr=8-2&keywords=dropper+bottle+plastic

>>50588105
sizes up to you but that's the correct type yeah. Think they're all basically the same.

>>50588130

How much do the GW pots hold? Is 5ml enough?

>>50588090

They're dries and technicals. I tried reviving them with vallejo medium but it's not as good as a fresh GW pot. Either because the Vallejo has polyurethane in it or because they have some hyper specific ratio of medium or they just weren't meant to be resuscitated.

>>50588090
I've tried that, Picasso. Helps sometimes, but usually not. And doesn't help at all with Vallejo.

>>50588171
They're 12ml

>>50586180
>>50586125
>>50586076
>>50586060
>>50586042
>>50586020
>>50586001
>>50585964
>>50585949
>>50585902
>>50585882
>>50585865
>>50585823
>>50585629
some great ideas there, thanks

>>50588069
>>50587947

How do you put the solid/really thick GW paints in droppers? Stuff like Mournfang Snow. Poke with stick?

>>50588179

Oh damn, really? Welp, guess I'll remember that.

>>50588195
why would you want to put dry/tech paints into droppers, they're useless like that

>>50588203
It's not like you need to transfer the whole pot at once though.

>>50588218

That's the point. And they will dry out in GW pots too so it's lose/lose.

To be honest, sometimes I prefer paint that covers quickly. Dozens of layers of really thin airbrush paint is great if you want a fancy display model, but sometimes I just want to get a dozen henchmen ready in less than a week.

>>50588233
Are you TRYING to trigger my OCD?

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>>50587960
>>50587945

I'm not a big fan of cork personally, especially when its low effort superthicc shit like pic related

a glossy red wash would look good flowing inbetween matte tiling, or splattered against marble flooring, where it contrasts with the greyscale

>>50583534
How did you make those posters?

>>50573198
>>50573230
>>50573338
you guys are the sweetest and make me happy :)

I know Vallejo metallics are amazing, but is anyone else weird like me and prefer GW's metallics? Even though they're less smooth, I like them because their lower quality metallic flakes produce a "glittery" effect.

No, it doesn't look like real metal, but it reminds me of 'Eavy Metal and YGO cards. Vallejo metal is too smooth for my taste and makes me think "velvet" not "metal".

>>50588325

You can find them here

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-h17DnsrmIgw/UcBcrj-4KkI/AAAAAAAAV78/KVFyoebVA5A/w556-h786-no/Imperial+propaganda.jpg

I printed them out, then brushed them with a little water, let them dry overnight, then brushed with some nuln oil to make them look grimy, then just glued them on with PVA glue.

>>50574963
>>50575029
Yeah, it's the Sister Superior.

>>50588417
Nah, that's a perfectly valid stylistic choice. While I prefer the more realistic Vallejo, it can get a bit dull.

>>50588417

I prefer Vallejo. The GW ones, particularly the golds, always separate out into unusable messes for me after a week.

>>50588476

This happens with my Gehenna's Gold. Auric Armour doesn't do this though. Do the new white lid AoS golds do this too? They cost more money so they better not.

File: 071216-NulinOil-244.jpg (234KB, 1705x693px) Image search: [Google]

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I have two full pots of Nuln Oil, and then they made the new glossy version. Should I pick one of those up or just stick to all the regular Nuln Oil I have?

>>50588546
the base retributor doesnt, but the layer auric gold does.

>>50588568

Thanks battle-senpai

>>50588565
i got the agrax gloss, but to be honest i havent found a use for it. almost every time i'm going to be shading something, i'm layering over it, or if it's in a recess, having it shiny looks awkward.

>>50588621
Yeah pretty much only good for keeping shines on metals?

>>50588653
yes

>>50588653
i think the only time i actually used it i was trying to do flesh tones. i'd really have to have a proper mess around with it. my local redshirt said to use it when you have metals on metals- wash the recessed metals so they keep a shine, and then layer the stuff on top of that.

>>50588546

The problems for me are gehenna gold and whatever the really bright one is. The brass colors are... okay, and the steels are generally manageable. But those golds go bad every time.

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Working on this box now. You guys think it's worth magnetizing the engines? They're so tiny. Also, replace the rotors with clear discs y/n

>>50588565
i just spilled my nuln oil on the table, it was full. had to walk away from what i was doing, luckily after hectic scooping i probably only lost little over a tea spoon.
Other than not being a cluts does anyone do anything to keep these bad boys from knocking over?

>>50588269

Yea, I don't really like cork like that either.

So, for the red wash, which wash would be good?

How would I paint cork to be like that?

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>>50588963

>>50588963

You can blue tak them to the table nearby or make a wooden slot to put them into. After 2 weeks of searching for Agrax Earthshade at my LGS, I finally got a bottle and spilled half of it the next day.

>>50588963

I'm still running on the small pots that are harder to knock over, but I still knocked over my first pot and lost about 50% of it. After that I've never knocked over anything again, lesson learned.

I bet you could use some poster tack putty to stick that pot on the table. You should have this stuff for attaching models to priming sticks and parts to bodies for dryfitting as well as masking items for spraying anyway. It's an essential hobby product, IMO.

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>>50588963
I know this pain. 3rd time past 4 weeks.

>>50588963
wouldn't surprise me this being precisely why the shits are twice as high

>>50589127
>3rd time

Fool me once, shame on you
Fool me three times, what the fuck am I doing?

>>50589150

Next pot design will feature a base that's narrower than the top. After that will be a pot shaped like a top that you have to spin to keep upright.

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I know its late, promised anons id post a couple of my shitty Auxiliary units

(My kroot are an albino-ish color scheme, by the way.)

File: 1207162302.jpg (1MB, 2304x1296px) Image search: [Google]

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>>50589338
And my first 3 Cadians, these guys were extremely fun to behead and fix up.. i can see why people get so into the conversions.

Fun tip i learned, the smaller, pen shaped grinding tips for a Dremel, makes the perfect divet for the round bottoms of Fire Warrior heads.

>>50580493
Looks good but scrape off the faceplate gold and redo it. It's really thick.

>>50589201
How is this even possible?! I'm Butterfingers McShakeyhands and I've never managed to spill a pot of paint.

I have a bunch of D&D minis I've started working on, and I decided to finally break out of my painting comfort zone and I have to say, it's been paying off. The 'water bender' (way of 4 elements: water) monk I'm painting is probably one of the best things I've done even with the gratuitous errors.

>>50589732

I can see it happening if your table is completely cluttered and full, or you work in a cramped area where everything is close together and reaching for one thing can knock over an open pot you're working with, but someone with a whole table and one single pot in the middle of nowhere?

I dunno.

>>50589829
If you listen to our boy Duncan you wont have that problem, just use a pallette

Nooby Crimson Fists anon here just posting my second model, i still need to do some highlights but i was wondering if i could get some critique on the purity seal. Also if anyone has any pointers on what to do with the helmet lenses I tried the whole white then drag to the corner but every time i do it it looks like ass

>>50589865

And close and open the pot everytime you have to get more wash on the palette? I can guarantee you people who knock over pots have to be using tons of wash. Otherwise they're retarded for leaving a pot open when not in use.

Boucher's trick of pouring wash into a water bottle cap would be a better option.

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>>50589923
Crap...I forgot the pic

>>50589923
>>50589942
Gene-cousin!

Personally I like painting in the eye lenses first and then painting the rest of the owl around it. Deep blue has a pretty good coverage so fixing the overspill won't be too bad.

Purity seal looks good to me. Some bone / off-white highlights along the papers will make it pop a bit more for sure.

>>50590000
Dorn has the best hair High and Tight fo' life! All i have is some Ceramic White i could play around with on it or should darken it up with some Nuln Oil?

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if anyone still had any questions about the expensive citadel golds, this here is one layer of retributor gold over white primer, so you can see what it looks like straight out of the pot.

>>50590368

I can never get their metallics to be totally smooth. The gold and bronze usually come out like it did here >>50585576

I did a little better here >>50576597 but still not as smooth

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>>50590456
do you thin them? i usually just try to get a little unthinned paint on my brush and just give it broad enough coverage that it doesnt glob anywhere. it's tricky but thinning it never works for me.
same paint again here, with a reikland wash.

>>50590490

Not so much on the first one, but the second yes.

>>50590043
Probably darken it a little. Straight white might be too much.

>>50590456
I thin Citadel metallics (even the new white-tops) 1:1 with Vallejo Thinner Medium before doing my Duncan-approved two thin coats. I'm honestly considering going a little thinner because I notice a bit of texture still. It doesn't show in the shitty cell phone camera photos ( >>50573090
) but it's noticable if I hold the model a few inches from my face.

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I took some time to make a mess of a miniature assembled from some spare pieces I got from my store's bitz bin and a sprue I got for other components.
He sure is a thing, I guess.

>>50591082
My love for you is like a truck

New thread when

>>50591467
Whenever you make it, anon.

>>50591581
But I want to post my stuff in there and not bump my own thread with the first/second post

>>50591609
Why not? Being one of the first posts is the best way to get (You)s.

>>50591467
Whenever you make one

>>50591834
Migrate
>>50591834
All Johnnys welcome
>>50591834
Those who arrive survive