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WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Thread replies: 369
Thread images: 94

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Gaudete, gaudete! Imperator est natus, Ex Sanctus virgine: Gaudete!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>In the face of death, I shall have no remorse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_ZgyNoHtjw [Embed]

Previous Thread
>>50505774
>>
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>When cecil starts hiding the mining explosives and asking you not to report his new "pet"
>>
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First time trying to paint NMM, I think I'm gonna try redoing it, just doesn't blend as well as I'd like.
>>
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awwww yiss
>>
>>50522000
The Spikes are from a chaos landraider, rib cage and brazers are from the corpse cart and the symbol is from the skullreaper set.
>>
>>50526038
did you get it already?
>>
>>50526044

Just arrived this morning, Austria anon moves fast...
>>
>>50526047
noice
>>
>>50526038
>Secret Santa
Dayum, wish I lurked more, I love secret Santa's.
>>
>>50526038
Open it!
>>
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>>50526079
>>50526055
>>50526047
>>50526044
>>50526038

My God Austria Anon, this is incredibly generous of you... I'm genuinely touched and a little in shock
>>
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>>50526118
nice!
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>>50526118

Also included a wonderfully painted Termie...
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Tested my "new scheme" on some spare scarabs i had lying in my bit box
>I feel like i've seen this scheme before
>Did i not fuck up colour theory?
>>
>>50526118
Whats in all the sprues? Dark Vengeance terminators?
>>
>>50526143
theyre all warm colours, i'd do a single contrast colour like blue lenses instead of the yellow
>>
>>50526147

Dark Vengence Termies and a Dark Angels Veterans kit + some head options + new bases for all included new City bases oh and Belial... holy balls
>>
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Perty, do you like tentacles?
>>
>>50526166
Thats some really nice stuff.
>>
>>50526177

Truely is, now I'm going to have to write a thank you card.
>>
>>50526166
That seems way more than $10 and makes me feel like a cheapo
>>
Singapore Annon, if you see this, please tell me what you play so I can try and get something appropriate.
>>
>>50526220
>Singapore

Unless you're in Asia you might want to just take a dive in case it doesn't arrive before Christmas

>>50526143

I like it!
>>
>>50526205
Thats always a "problem" with secret santa and a certain target value of the gifts i fear.

There is no real way to prevent that from happening. Some people just have more money or large stockpiles of stuff laying around and are glad to get rid of some.
If the rules would say up to $50 then there would be someone gifting stuff for $70+ as well.

Don't feel bad Anon, the gesture of gifting something to a stranger is what counts, not the monetary value of the contents. At least thats how i see it.
>>
nearly finished my prospero familimilimlams
>>
>>50526153
Dark blue or light blue?
I was planning to use the yellow for Gauss + eyes
>>
>>50526118
>>50526201
>I'm going to have to write a thank you card.

You're welcome and I'm glad you like it, Anon, but you really don't have to. If I'm honest it seemed a bit paltry while I was packing it. Also, I forgot to put in the Dark Angels recruitment poster I printed out, but you literally can't open those boxes without ripping them once they're closed.
>>
>>50526283
nah yeah i reckon it could work, you'd just need the yellows to be a flash gitz level of brightness. when the models all similar colours it has trouble pulling the eyes to the focal points
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I've almost finished my daemon prince of Tzeentch for The Scourged. Just have the base and little bit of clean up here and there left to do. I'd like to hear what others think.
>>
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>>50526317
A close up on his head
>>
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>>50526321
And his sword arm. I've got to say, the colour scheme for The Scourged is really fun to paint, even if getting that almost-black shade of red was a bit of a hassle.
>>
>>50526305
Ah ok, i'm still trying to get my head around this Colour Theory thing
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>>50526287

Ah thank you, Sir. Much appreciate and I struggled with the box for a few minutes trying to figure out how to open it without tearing and had to end up doing so.

It is very generous, I might try to send a little something back, although I struggle to think as I spent many winters in Sol in Austria skiing and thought the chocolate (which is normally my defacto thank you gift) was superior to ours, hmmm. Well we'll see, thank you again!
>>
>>50526334
>>50526321
>>50526317

very nice, consider highlighting your bronze (more?) as it looks a bit flat, but otherwise nice.
>>
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Still early stages yet. Do you think I should do that purple gradient on every body segment or just stick with the blue on the rest?
>>
>>50526351
Thanks! It's supposed to be a goldish colour, I under coated black, Balthasar gold base, Gehenna's gold layer on top. I was considering doing an edge highlight of Runefang steel or Chainmail (it's the old name for the paint inbetween Leadbelcher and Runefang steel).
>>
>>50526395
I think the purple gradient looks great! In my opinion, it'd look pretty cool if you continue the purple gradient, but have less and less of it as you go up the segments.
>>
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>>50526400

May I suggest a technique of my own devising, mottle it with more agrax Earthshade (or equiv), and continue to do so, then you can highlight the edge with the original colour and then give it an ultra fine highlight of stormhost or runefang, really makes it pop.

For Gold however, the "new" Retributor armour is fantastic, I reccomend it.

>Base Leadbelcher
>Layer Retributor
>wash agrax
>wash agrax
(more washing to taste)
>Highlight Retributor
>Highlight Stormhost

It looks great (demonstrated on my Magus staff here)
>>
>>50526423
Wow! Yeah, I see what you mean, it is very effective. Thanks!
Btw, I'm very impressed with the skin, your shading is great
>>
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Carlos in Tenerife, your parcel is on its way.
>>
>>50526175

Those blood effects look legit amazing. Is that a wash?
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>Jim: Well Bob, looks like Anon's, eventually, started work on his Orc team
>Bob: That's right Jim, I've seen Wood Elf Treeman go faster than this guy
>Jim: So what do you think of his technique?
>Bob: Not for me to say, Jim. I'll leave that to the crowd and from the sounds of it, they're not too happy.
>>
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>>50526668

>Jim: Using Cabal vision we're going for a close up of Riptooth Cragchewer's weather beaten face
>Bob: Don't blame the weather, Jim... Blame the coach! If he was any good maybe this poor Black Orc wouldn't get knocked down so much.
>>
>>50526668
>>50526669

Stick his base to something while you paint and don't lay him down while painting, it looks like you're wearing the paint right off the knuckledusters. Otherwise, nice, but dark. Could push the contrast more.

And get that pube off his jawpiece.
>>
>>50526741

Meant to link >>50526689
>>
>>50526668
>>50526689
don't beat yourself up anon, those are good!
>>
Anyone got a good guide for painting bright orange? All the stuff I find on the net is dark and dull.
>>
>>50526809
I paint a base layer of red (like Mephiston red) and paint over that with Troll Slayer orange. I know it's pretty basic, but I don't paint a lot of orange. Still, the outcome is a nice bright orange, It depends how much detail are you wanting?
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First mini in a couple of months. Decal wrinkled unfortunately and I've smoothed it a little since this photo, but otherwise pretty happy.
>>
>>50526869
Oh yeah, then if you want, highlight with a mix of Troll slayer orange and a bit of averland sunset
>>
Noob here - is there a good recipe for "bright" bronze that's not confused for gold? Was looking at warplock as base but it might be too muted for me
>>
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reposting from last thread:
C&C? I still need to:
-clean up lines where the white went over
-add in energy colours
-find a gunmetal black or something for the main body of the staff.
I've been using P3 Carnal Pink for my energy colour. Do you guys think it would be best to stick with it, or should I change to a different colour? People I know are pretty split between them, and while I like it the sheer number of people who are saying it's bad are making me think that maybe there's a better colour to use.
>>
>>50526950
Advice I got from the last thread. Warplock base, then wash with agrax, then drybrush brass scorpion with a bit of leadbelcher for highlights. Comes out like >>50507126 (If that works)
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>>50526950
This is Warplock, Brass Scorpion, Runelord Brass (with the Nihilakh Oxide weathering), if that's roughly what you're after?
>>
>>50526996
Jesus, that mini's dusty.
>>
>>50526976
I think it all looks a bit flat, a black wash over the metallics and then pick out the raised areas would really make it pop.
For the turquoise start with a darker blue base and add turquoise to it (I use coal black and then meredius blue for mine)
>>
>>50526995
Looks pretty great actually, will do that! Thanks man. Might've underestimated warplock

>>50526996
Looks great too, but need it to stand out more on mine I think, thanks though!
>>
>>50527036
It is a beauty of a paint, I base almost all my metals with it. Drybrushing leadbealcher over it for a general silver metal and you get lovely dark recesses.
>>
>>50526668
>>50526689
Lovely. I really like the red and the skintone on this guy. With some team markings this guy is gonna look awesome.

I really want to get my hands on some of those and do ...something with them.
I have no interest in Blood Bowl apart from me thinking that bright team colors and numbers look really fancy on model though.

Dunno, maybe they could serve as 'Ard Boys?

Anyway keep posting. These look awesome.
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>>50526143
>I feel like i've seen this scheme before
Looks vaguely familiar.
>>
>>50526038
Its sunday.. how is this even possible?
>>
>>50527365
US mail has been delivering on Sundays for certain kinds of packages.
>>
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LURKERS - POST - CURRENT - PROJECTS
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>>50526532
wow how does this work? you guys made a list or something? I want in! so cool!
>>
>>50527471
Its over for this year Anon. The "how to join"-pic was posted here almost constantly during the last 3 weeks.
>>
>>50527286
ahhhhhhhhhhhh that's it, didn't even realise
Kinda glad i went with copper instead of gold desu
>>
>>50527504
shieeeet next year then!
>>
>>50527365

Parcel Force and lots of couriers operate on a Sunday.
>>
>>50526877
Looks old school af.
>>
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First mini after a few years and I don't really like it.

I thibk I fucked up the highlighting and the bae isn't as "acidy" as I wanted it to.

Any tips on how to improve?
>>
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>>50526143
Scarabs are cute! CUTE!

>>50527409
Buncha part, assembling some marines, painting a couple others, drilling like 15 bolters.
>>
>>50527409
Currently painting my Ariadna Starter. First time ever painting anything. Unfortunately I don't have any washes but I have umber wash coming Tuesday. Any suggestions on how I should color my GL Volunteer? Wanna have her fit in with the color scheme of my other troops. I was thinking, yellow jacket and socks, black boots, shirt, and skirt, but then I'm not sure about her hair. I have a red that I was gonna try but I don't think it'd work with the rest.
>>
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>>50527409
Not really a project, but I bought a Bretonnian battalion box a year ago for my first foray into the hobby, but haven't had much time to paint or play until recently.

Here's a man at arms i'm trying to do. I'm still complete shit though. Obviously not finished.
>>
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>>50527984
>>50527409
Forgot my picture, of course.
>>
>>50527409
I can't, I don't have a current project.
I am currently too poor for the resources I need to start any project at all.
>>
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What do you guys think of this cultist? He's one of my older models. The reason I haven't stripped the paint off him is because of that one eye.
>>
>>50527926
Good effort for being back at the hobby anon. I'd say more thin layers so you can build up the colour better, watch some videos on highlighting and layering.

Heck just use the the same techniques as on warhammertv and you'll be right as rain.

Practice and patience, anon.
>>
>>50528065
I kinda dig this, too. Paint is so lump and shitty in places, and those gloves just blend right in with the flesh, but the gun actually looks pretty great, the apron has a wonderful grimy feel, and that eye as you say.
>>
>>50528225
Thank you very much! I wanted to get a real sense of grime and dirt with the miniature.
This was at the stage where I was thinning my paints, but I hadn't found the perfect mix, so it still sometimes caused a lumpy effect as you say.
I am quite proud of the gun, I'm very happy with the chipped effect on the chevrons.
>>
>>50525876
Ogryn loyalty os what we need to stamp out the genestealer menace.

Also ogryn genestealers would be a nightmare!
>>
>>50528108

I even used the WarhammerTV video of how to paint a termagant as a "template" and it turned out like this.

More thin layers should be manageable.

I didn't really get the hang of highlighting though.

Thanks anon
>>
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More progress. This time I painted all the toilet paper.
>>
>>50527993
Give her chestnut hair, so it can separate itself from the rest of the color scheme
>>
>>50528833
I am very impressed with waht the armor has going on right now. Is the texture on the armor sculpted on, or did you freehand that? And was the armor itself shaded with an airbrush and stencil, or is that the result of glazes or some other blending technique?
>>
>>50528869
That's perfect, thank you. I wish Hobby Lobby was open today. Hopefully Michael's sells Vallejo paints.
>>
>>50528833
fucking fuck, i wish I had patience like you, how long did that take so far?
>>
>>50528891
Nope, the marks on the armor are all sculpted.

I didn't use airbrush at all for this, the highlights were done with wetblending and the shadows with regular glazes.
>>
>>50528940
Red parts I think about 4 hours, silver about 3, paper another 2.

I think I'll need another 12-15 hours to finish him, basing and all.
>>
>>50528833

Dayum. That's so nice looking,
>>
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>>50527409
just finished my orc team. now on to the human one
>>
>>50528052
have you gone into your local store and seen about any secondhand stuff they have?I know a lot of places around me tend to buy up the stuff of people leaving the hobby for dirt cheap so they can sell it to new people for dirt cheap and get them into the hobby.
>>
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needing a bit of help /wip/.

i've ordered a SNagrat Kromm model from BitOfWar, and ever since I've been trying to find a scale comparison between it a 40k Ork so I can see what alt. head I'm gonna use since the one with the model looks goofy.

i was gonna use one of my spare Black Orc heads from a recent Ironjawz strter box but idk for the scale.

anyone here have the model or have seen it beside other orks? pic related.
>>
I will add green glaze and then some grass on the bases for my sylvaneth army. whatcha think?
>>
>>50529653
>>
>>50529676
>>
>>50529653
I think that either your camera isn't that great at picking up highlights and shades or you should definitely do those
and I think that maybe pine needle green isn't the best colour to have painted bark, but it would look a lot better with aforementioned highlighting and shading.
>>50529686
looks a lot more tree-like, why'd you change colours for the body?

for the base, I'm a much bigger fan of the old glue-sand method and then adding grass and such to make it look more organic.
>>
>>50529686
>>
>>50529693
yeah my phone is shit and lightning in my room also.

I painted the bark with dryad bark and biel-tan washed it. then used sylvaneth bark for some highlighting and for lighter part like "horns" etc. I like it this way it kind of looks like a behemoth just arisen out of a forest/swamp
>>
>>50529693
>>50529686
with dryads and which I didn't use the green wash but went for a more mundane tree look.
>>
>>50529618
He's bigger than a boy but smaller than a warboss. About the size if a nob but I don't have a proper nob to compare him to.
>>
>>50526877
Dude... my fucking hand...it's huge

*tokes*
>>
>>50527409
finishing some orks and waiting for kingdom death pinups to arrive. I hope I am not going to have to wait a year to get the kd models but I have never ordered them before
>>
>>50529558
my local store is quite a bit away, and I can't even afford to go there right now.

I am planning a big bunch of projects though.
>>
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Okay /tg/, what's the deepest red/brightest gold I can get with citadel colors? Pic related
>>
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>>50529790
Dude...
>>
>>50529801
>finishing some orks and waiting for kingdom death pinups to arrive. I hope I am not going to have to wait a year to get the kd models but I have never ordered them before
If you ordered them from KD during the BF sale it may take a while.
Once they're sent though it should be fairly quick if you're US based.
If you're anywhere overseas from the US, add another 3-5 weeks.
USPS is slow as fuck shipping between continents for some reason.
>>
>>50529843
Start your red with brown, then mix in mephiston, highlight with reds to taste.

Use Retributor for the gold, highlight heavily with Runefang.

If you're trying to do that model you might as well spray the whole thing brown to start with, as red and gold both go on well over it.
>>
>>50529851
that's cool, I am in the US. I kinda figured it wasn't going to be TOO soon based on what other anons had said but was hoping they might pop up around Christmas at least.
>>
TFW having to put conversion projects on hold due to not wanting them to be invalidated in a month when a new codex comes out.

This allies of imperoum book is going to affect both my Inquisition and Sisters projects.
>>
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Finished this guy recently.
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Look at this shit, just look at it. how im supossed to clean this mess.
>>
>>50530158
slowly
>>
>>50528065
keep it. redo the gloves, the rest is perfect.
>>
>>50529875
Before Christmas should be possible, even assuming it takes 2 weeks from BF to ship.
It's only within the USA after all.
>>
How to dirty up my Death Guard? Infantry look alright, just need a bit of mud or something, but the B@C dreadnought has too many flat slabs for shading to do much.

It just looks too plain, what could I do with it?
>>
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Some Sons on Sunday
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>>50530363
mud texture paint, rust effect paint, dabbling paint on with a blister foam, pigments.. or all of these together. possibilities are endless
>>
>>50530158
Cut in sections, carefully. One triangle at a time, really.
Good luck
>>
>>50530379
Any recommendations for these? My skills and knowledge are still fairly basic
>>
I was watching Duncan. All he did to thin was spread it out over his pallet. Is that right?
>>
>>50530363
Sponging abaddon black and rhinox hide works perfectly. Cheap, easy, and great results. Look up weathering on warhammertv, you should get several results. The sponging is shown on an ork dread.
>>
>>50530581
Its really not hard.

Get some texture paint like from vallejo or gw (the stuff for the bases), and dabble small amounts of it onto your mini, at the feets for example, or where you want to have some mud. Then randomly apply brown/sepia or even green washes onto that stuff to give it an uneven color.
If you have pigments, dabble some on as well to give the color even more variety.

Rust effect paint works similar, you apply it to the spots you want to have rusty (obviously), and its done (gw stuff is called typhus corrosion i think, but vallejo and other companies have similar rust effects).

You also can add some random dark brown or dark gray dots here and there (with a little bit of blister foam for example) to get spots on the armor where the paint chipped off, inside these dark spots you can paint smaller spots of metal or steel color for the ones where the scratch was deep enough to down to the raw steel of the armor.

You can also apply some dots in a similar color as your armor but a bit lighter to get scratches where the paint wasn't removed down to the steel, but just a little bit on the surface to get even more variation.

See pic related? It has everything besides the mud in it.
>>
>>50530671
He also added water from the pot, how much varies based on what you're doing. You want the paint to flow from your brush, not be a blob stuck to it.
>>
>>50530123
It's well painted, undoubtedly, but I feel like your white could be closer to bone, or dirty white. Right now it's a white closer to WE than DG.
>>
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>>50528833
Really nice work, those metals are really sexy. Im feeling envious of you skills sempai.
>>
>>50531018

Ridiculous scroll work. Love it.
>>
>>50527524

or email me at Trypticon @ gmail, I'm picking up strays, if you'd still like to join, and by join, exchange gifts with little old me, feel free
>>
>>50530377

nice, so thats a silver base and then what
>>
>>50531470
Thats really nice of you Anon.
>>
So i have to remove the arms on 30 marines... How do i go about this ?
I know that if they were super glued i could put them in the freezer, but to my knowledge that doesnt work on plastic glue.
>>
>>50531581
If it's plastic glue then you're on far more destructive methods. Clippers, razor saw, craft knife... depends how much you want to keep the arms.

I've seen arms break at the elbow rather than come away from a plastic glued shoulder joint.
>>
>>50531581
take a hobby saw and carefully saw them off.
>>
What's a good way to put a Celtic themed spin on beast men apart from the usual war paint.
>>
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>>50531617
>>50531622
damnit, was hoping no destructive methods were needed.
Guess i'll have to fork out for a hobby saw tomorrow.
>>
>>50531668
Long shields, greenstuffed braids, backpipes and ginger/blondish hair. Now that I think of it, the vast majority of Beastmen that I see are dark, bright beastmen would be original.
>>
>>50531668
Mix them with warlord games plastic celt bits
>>
>>50531692
And that's why using plastic glue is always a bad idea.
>>
>>50530336
cool thanks for the info anon! When I get them I will be posting frequently in WIP threads as I will definitely need some advice down the road.
>>
Hey /wip/ I just moved into an apartmet in a big city. I'm used to the suburbs of LA, so my question is how the fuck do apartment dwellers prime minis?

I suppose I could head out to the fire escape since at the very least no one is ever on that side of the building, but it's rusty as fuck and I don't want to fall to my death. What do other people do?
>>
Sizing question in anticipation of casting some special weapons:

Are the plasma gun, melta gun, and flamer that come with a squad of Space Marines the same size as the plasma gun, melta gun, and flamer that come with the Catachan Command Squad?
>>
>>50532076
We use Vallejo's brush on primer. The black one works perfectly, also with an aibrush. Just shake it well before using it, 2 thin coats and you're good to go.
>>
>>50532076
> big city

You got a brick and mortar hobby shop? Mine has a space out the back where he lets people spray, it's covered so you can do it if it's raining too.

That or buy an airbrushing setup that won't disturb your neighbours and airbrush prime.
>>
>>50532164
Is brush on primer really any good? I was always under the impression spray was better
>>
>>50532179
>better

It's the most convenient way for most people, and it's more durable than some brush-ons, but it doesn't give you cancer and you can do it when it's raining, dark outside etc. etc.
>>
>>50532179
It offers more control but takes longer. Quality is about the same from what I can tell. Its a good alternative if you live in an apartment where you dont have outdoors space to spray. Spray is best for vehicles though.
>>
>>50532076
Do it wherever and open a window for a while.
>>
I'm looking for a spray that is equivalent to the fang so I can base my wolves easier. Anyone got any suggestions other than an airbrush?
>>
>>50532301
Gee anon, I don't know.
>>
>>50532076
vallejo brush on primer. dark grey for me.
a 200ml bottle lasts forever
>>
>>50531812

And yet the idiots on here will always recommend it.
>>
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>>50532353
>>
>>50532353
In anons defence I'm pretty sure the site said that's a new release
>>
>>50532423
Plastic glue has its uses, especially for small fiddly bits or if you're doing conversions. But for 99 percent of jobs I use Loctite superglue gel control.
>>
>>50532353
>equivalent

I'm not spending dumbass amounts on spray paint
>>
>>50529737
ah, thanks

i'm planning on doing a bit of conversion to him, change the gun maybe and add something to bulk him out

model should be here by wed so im prob gonna use ironjawz bits and see what i can do
>>
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What would you use to shade Livery Green from Vallejo?

I thought about some yellow citadel shade, but they're too orange-reddish as I want to keep that acidy/toxic look.
>>
What the fuck do you do when your spray can's clogged?

I use Army Painter Primer and after the first use it's clogged.

I shook it, I turned it upside down. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.
>>
>>50532423
Plastic glue is better in every way unless you want to easily break the model apart. Since this is generally undesirable I have no problem using it for everything.
>>
>>50532254
Not the best plan unless you don't mind overspray dust everywhere.

I mean, I used to do this when I lived in a shithole but I wouldn't do it now.
>>
Posting some wips.

>>50532905
After each use, turn the can upside down and spray unti there comes only gas.
>>
>>50533055

Very Chris Foss, I like
>>
Welp, my package for california anon goes out tomorrow, fun fun.
>>
>>50532179
If you make sure you apply it evenly then its equally good. Of course, this takes more time. But its certainly better than spraying inside an apartment.
>>
>>50532867
A green wash.
>>
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My first mini in over a year.
>>
Largely finished with these guys. I felt like I could have done better contrast on the fur, but I guess that these should be fine for tabletop so I can finally release the hounds.
>>
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>>50533253
10/10 would release
>>
>>50526877
>Decal wrinkled unfortunately and I've smoothed it a little since this photo

Who here has experience using white vinegar as decal solvent

Putting round decals on domed pelta shields for my phalangites, quite a pain in the ass. Cant really cut notches properly because it's a 16-pointed star pattern
>>
>>50533237
Not bad. You might want to look up Duncan tips on how to paint NL armor and lightning.
>>
Any suggestions on how to base an army so that it looks like they're marching through a toxic quagmire?
>>
>>50533693
Nurgle's Rot is very lurid but can be quite effective on bases, for that toxic waste look.
>>
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>>50527409

Working on ancients, pic related. guys on the right are WIP the rest are pretty much done. Once those four are done that's half a box of warlord phalangites.

Converted standard bearer and taxiarch because the box doesn't come with command models.
>>
>>50531018
How do you do that armour? Beautiful
>>
>>50533789
These look really neat.

What game are they for?
>>
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>>50527409

Slowly working through some Deaths Korps, love these models but they're so ruddy expensive.
>>
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>>50527409
Been working on some of my Dark Legion for Warzone: Resurrection. Picture's probably not the best, but for now it'll have to do until I cobble together a light box.
>>
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>>50533824
>Victrix?

Warlord Games (guys that make Bolt Action). I intend to get some Victrix phalangites as well. There's pros and cons to each set but since I'm getting a ton of them may as well get the variety.

I bought three victrix sets for my birthday in October and for some reason I was expecting them to be smaller than the warlord ones but they're actually slightly taller.

Terrible pic so I wasn't gonna post it but these are victrix unarmoured hoplites kitbashed with warlord pelta shields and a few javelins from the Iberian set to be "Hemithorakitai Peltophoroi" (EBII players will know what that means). The guy on the right has a head from the warlord Phalangite set which I think just barely works scale-wise.

>I like them so far. Are the movement trays magnetic sheets?

Yeah, I found these "magnetic business cards" that have a film you can peel off to stick them to anything. I made magnetic bottle caps to paint them on, it seems to be a very strong bond so I'll put them on balsa wood or mdf or something when I get around to make proper bases.
>>
Painters black gesso is an acceptable paint on primer right?
>>
>>50533914
As they are made by Warlord they are for Hail Caesar, but I am sure that any 28mm ancients game would do.
>>
>>50533914
>What game are they for?

Haven't decided. I did the magnetic bases so I could use them in "multiple-based" games like Hail Caesar (Warlord Games' rules) or Kings of War: Historical, or do individual casualty-removal for Warhammer: Ancient Battles or War and Conquest
>>
>>50534010
I ask because of the round bases. Usually these historical games have squares.
>>
>>50534025
Technically as long as they fit within the footprint and can be individually removed, shape of the individual bases wouldn't matter. They could interchangeably be used in a skirmish deal like Poseidon's Warriors and a mass combat game like Hail Caesar.
>>
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>>50534025

They're galvanized washers caked in wall-filler, sand, rocks, glue etc.

>>50534079

This was the idea. I'm indecisive so I was going for maximum versatility. I want to do huge battles like Gaugamela and Raphia eventually, but might try to do some kind of /awg/ ancient fantasy skirmish game in the mean time while I build up the armies.

Some /wip/ Agema Republican Roman Legionaries, at the Basecoat+Wash stage
>>
>>50532076
I just cover my living room table with bin liner and put my stuff on top of a box and open the window. It's fine.
>>
>>50533945
these are looking good so far!
>>
Tell you what lads, I hope I'm starting to crack it.

I have a portable tray very similar to the ones GW made, except my dad was kind enough to make one for me. Anyway, after several months of getting back into "painting" which seemed to consist more of dirty work like trimming moldlines and hacking off the integral bases of old models, I cleared it of all the bare and half-baked based, undercoated stuff, the flocks, tools etc. and just left myself with my paints, brushes and a couple of miniatures.

Painted 3 models in about two days, which is ridiculous for me.

Stopped my mind wandering and deciding to do dumb shit like aforementioned rebasing instead of actually finishing something. I'd recommend it.
>>
Sorry about potato quality, but my captain is coming along nicely. Just have to paint his purity seals and put some dawnstone along the edges of his armor to make things pop.
>>
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Hot off the presses!
Brother Barktooth and his squad of merry misfits! Hopefully they'll take care of all my Sternguard-related needs in my Flesh Tearers army.

First time doing sub-assembly and I gotta say a really like it. It helps that my Chapter is only two colors but it seems really easy anyway.

Makes me wish I hadn't fully assembled nearly every other model in my army already...
>>
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>>50527409
Finally finishing up some jellyfish guys for Wrath of Kings. I was gonna go with some sandy shoreline basing, but now I'm thinking frozen dockyard stuff so I can use them in Frostgrave.

I've also got some more humanoid fishmen if anybody's interested.
>>
>>50529870
Isn't khorne red darker than mephiston?
>>
>>50533915
I love the mud stains on the coat
>>
>>50534961
That ain't mud
>>
I'm looking for some legs similar to empire greatswords, but with more armour, anyone know anything that would fit the description?
>>
What do you guys use to mask off parts of your minis? I was practicing with my new airbrush today and thought it'd be a great idea to use no-dry clay. Spoiler: it wasn't.
>>
>>50535113
How about fucking masking tape?

You know, that product designed for masking while painting?
>>
>>50535187
I apologize anon, I meant for areas where masking tape was unwieldy or unsuitable to use. I thought this would be obvious.
>>
>>50535113
I use Vallejo's liquid mask personally. You brush it on so it can cover areas a small as areas that you could paint otherwise.
>>
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>>50535113
>What do you guys use to mask off parts of your minis?

This stuff comes in other shapes besides "long narrow rectangle".
>>
>>50533055
That pattern is fantastic! Mind sharing how you made it with the class?
>>
>>50532301
Bumping for real answers
>>
>>50527985
Hey not to bad, don't put yourself down like that. The chest plate looks neat as and what little slip ups I can spot are easy fixes. Have you started on the shield yet?

Keep posting as you work!
>>
>>50533915
that base is really nice, simple but adds that awesome extra touch to a officer
>>
How do you unclog spray cans?

Asking for a friend
>>
So how did i do painting my first miniature in more then a decade?
>>
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>>50536065
for some reason picture didn't upload.
>>
>>50536065
very abstract. I like it.
>>
>>50536032
How clogged we talking? Hold it upside down and give it a try. Still not working? Pull the spray head off and poke a bit of wire in there. Always give a quick puff upside down when you're finished to clear it out and keep things from gunking up.
>>
Fuck it I'm going to walmart and picking the first spray thats vaguely fang colored.
>>
>>50536182

Clogged, as in doesn't spray at all.

I pushed a needle inside the can to unclog the valve or whatever and it seems good.

Putting the nozzle on it clogs again after literally 1 second.
>>
>>50536298
Are you shaking the hell out of the can? Might be a lump of pigment in there. Storing it in a cold area? Old can?
>>
>>50536343

I'm shaking it for a few minutes, it's a rather newish can and its a bit below room temperature where I'm spraying.

I don't know what causes it, but it's consistent. Had the same problem with 2 cans before.
I use Army Painter Primer
>>
>>50526653
looks like the blood technical wash from gw
>>
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Could I get some c&c on my skink chief kitbash? I find sculpting with green stuff a bit intimidating still, but I've been having fun with just swapping around parts. Does this look alright or should I just give up and try sculpting something instead
>>
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found this image a while ago. Anybody know where the plow is from? None of the plows ive seen look remotely good on lemans, but the one in the picture does
>>
>>50537133
I can't get over the horrible color choice for the trees, honestly.
>>
>>50537158
would it help if I cropped the image to just the plow
>>
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Just started painting my first knight. 5th model overall I've painted so far. Thoughts? I play mechanicus so I wanted to highlight the steampunk theme with my color choices
>>
>>50537133
it looks like the plow you'd get on a space marine tank
>>
>>50537325
i like it, make sure you detail the base though. you'd want a field of mud or rubble or something that doesnt draw the eye away from the titan. you can include a little bit of detail though, like if the knight was crushing some kind of holy building or something.
>>
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>>50527409
guardsmen
>>
>>50537325
Have you already glued all those plates on? Cause protip I'd wait to paint those last next time so you can get to all the mechanical shit underneath first. Yours looks good though, kinda hard to fuck up a titan if you have sense.
>>
>>50537406
Thanks, i was gonna use martian ironearth on the base when i finish him. Maybe a few shrybs too.

>>50537463
Yea, i realized that after I got started. I kinda jumped the gun since its my first one and the last unit I needed for the War Convocation.
>>
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Jesus, somebody told me to come to this thread and I have to admit, it's making me incredibly self-conscious about my models now, they all look sloppy as fuck compared to nearly everything here and I thought I was not really all that bad.
>>
>>50537552
Its not gonna be that bad, just a little hard to get under all those bits, no ones ever gonna see it anyway m8. Looks nice.
>>
>>50537570
trust me, we've all done our share of shoddy work. but that's how you improve. keep at it chum.
coming here every other day and posting updates and getting (usually harsh) criticism goes a long way to improving your work.
pic related, one of my best from about a year ago, when i started.
>>
>>50537133
Might be this https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-PL/MKIIC-Rhino-Dozer-Blade
>>
>>50537656
Everytime I see that I ask myself

what the fuck is that on the side of his face
>>
>>50537133
Thats the one on the chimera
>>
>>50537570

The real kick in the pants is when you paint the best models you've ever painted, and then you look at them six months later and realize that they're shit by your current standards, but you can't bring yourself to simplegreen them either
>>
>>50537570
You'll usually get harsh criticism for posting here but WIP is really the best place I've found for feedback because it's not a hugbox like places like Dakka. The links at the top are very helpful and you should check out Warhammer TV on youtube for painting tutorials as well.
>>
>>50537737
its the front machinegun guard plate thing. i've done it like it's taken a direct hit and been thrown back into his face
>>
>>50537841
I see now, I just kek whenever I see it. And the fucker with nothing but grenades kneeling on his base.
>>
>>50537885
truly they have a place in my heart
>>
>>50532301
Dude, the fang comes in a spray you fucking idiot.
>>
>>50538566
Congratulations on not being able to read the thread.
>>
>>50532301
You should get an airbrush and learn how to use it, when you get good you will wonder how you ever lived without it
>>
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Any ideas on how to weather these Iron Hands and add some battle damage?
>>
>>50538643
I will as soon as I get the money, I should be getting paid soon so any recommendations for something durable and wont break the bank?
>>
>>50538662
Start by drilling those weapons yo
>>
>>50538662
Look up the sponge method for battle damage, you use a tiny bit of sponge to stipple the paint on, makes it look like the paint has chipped and worn, you can do multiple colors gray, silver, brown for whatever effect you want
>>
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>>50537570
Never despair anon. Here's a mini on the right from 2013 and left is from about 2 months ago. Still have a LONG way to go but improvement is just a part of the hobby
>>
>>50538971
What color though?
>>
>>50535281

I notice a lot of airbrushers just cut the masking tape with a knife and mask the general spot. Some just have a "fuck it" attitude and use full size masking tape haphazardly masking it, or just using a card to block a portion and spray over it. It still turns out just fine because airbrush.
>>
>>50539052
skavenblight dinge to make it look like the paint is worn to the vehicles primer, and then leadbealcher lightly overr that to make it look scratched to the metal.
>>
>>50539052
Orange and ochre for rust. Silver for fresh damage. Black and green for pitted corrosion. Light amounts of eggshell and medium chocolate brown for clay/mud.
All depends on what effects you're going for.
>>
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first models I've painted in about 5 years after getting back into 40k. I'm starting to get a steady hand but I can't layer or highlight for shit. I got some paint thinner last week so I'm gonna try going slower and adding thinner layers, which seems to be the way to go judging from all your beautiful models.

deus vult!
>>
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my Marshall, and my first attempt ever at free hand painting to try and put writing on the banner. I posted this guy during the summer and this is the finished product, thank you to whoever told me to use seraphim sepia and nuln oil to wash over him.
>>
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some air support for the lads
>>
>>50539277
>>50539304
did you use clumping kitty litter to base your minis?
>>
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and a big of armour for ground support. I still need to finish this one, put writting on the cloths and add some ink wash etc. I like how these are turning out, I just wish I was a better painter lol
>>
>>50539331
nah its gw sand from over 5 years ago when I bought it. I made the mistake of trying to put it around the whole base so its chipped off when I pick it up, won't do that again.
>>
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Homemade Skyshield Landing Pad update. I heard you guys like hazard stripes.
>>
>>50539512
damn that's come along really well.
keep it up!
>>
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Test Night Lord mini. The photo dulled down the highlights on the blue, but I'm feeling okay about it. Still haven't done the script on his Vexilla - what should his name be?
>>
>>50539574
Thanks! Still debating on what color to paint the Aquilas and what gubbins and other little decorative things to add it. Any ideas?
>>
>>50539586

Really digging the lightning effect.
>>
>>50539586
Really like the freehand work with the lightning. Well done. As for a name, I suggest Beretor Kosmin.
>>
>>50539598
maybe a rusted iron or weathered bronze, give it more of an industrial look instead of something bright
>>
>>50539512
>>50539598

Really like it. You thinking of smoothing out those walls?
>>
Bit late in the thread, but I'll ask anyways.
Does anyone know of a way to create a void shield generator, preferably cheaper than GW's. Even if its just pictures of other people's creations. I want one for an IG list but $100 is a bit steep for me.
>>
>>50539700
Thanks. I'm considering smoothing out the walls. It's textured with cheapo wall filler so I can actually shape it with my fingers. I'm trying to find that line between what's a cool rough concrete look and what's just sloppy work.
>>
>>50539732
Maybe a file would both help smooth it and leave some texture if you take a rough one? Bit of a noob though so you probably have better ideas!
>>
>>50526143

Work on your edge highlights. Re-do the red, then as gently as you can, use the very tip of your fine detail brush´s edge with little paint and carefully just touch the very edge of the higher points. Always work your way upwards, to the lighter points, and never "frame" the model, its supposed to make the model look more realistic, a way to enhance how the light would hit it.
>>
>>50539720
Medium density fiberboard, EVA foam, some craft supplies, and a little imagination can take you a long way. Even if you're just fucking around, the materials are cheap and it could lead to a neat Void Shield Generator proxy and you'd be the one that made it, which is the coolest thing about it.
>>
Looking to get some wyverns for my renegades army, any good conversion suggestions past add stars of chaos and spikey bits? Was thinking of using the ghost skulls from the VC AoS ktis as the rounds being shot out of them
>>
>>50539741
Hmm... maybe something like an emory board would work. A metal file would be too harsh for the cheapo dollar store wall filler I used.
>>
>>50539720
im gonna make one of these things too since I just heard about them. if you need ideas, im planning on using that coloured plastic sheet stuff to make a big dome that I can place down over my stuff, kind of like something you'd see in star wars.
>>
>>50539752
Where would be the bet place to get the fiberboard and foam? I've always thought about getting some, but never found a good place to get it from.
>>
>>50527926

Not to shabby. Most of the times you see guys pulling the same line, but posting a pick of something that fell in the paint pot. You on the other hand did pretty good anon! Keep it up, and you will be back on track in no time!
>>
>>50539773
Any hardware store. If you have Ace Hardware, I'd go there. They for sure have the 1/8th inch thick sheets. Places like Home Depot or Lowes typically only have the 1/4 inch thick sheets that are just thick enough to be a bitch to cut with a razor knife.
>>
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>>50539720
try this, sixteen bucks.
http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=378
>>
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>>50539801
Cool, I'll think about how to build it and pick up some supplies soon. Thanks man
>>50539813
This is mighty tempting not gonna lie.
>>
>>50539773
As far as foam goes, I know Lowes definitely has it in store in their flooring section. It's the foam sheets that look like puzzle pieces that people put in their garages and children's playrooms. Home depot seems to be a hit or miss on it. Sometimes they have it, but must of the time you gotta order it, which pretty inconvenient.
>>
>>50539813
On second look it is much smaller than the regular shield generator, is it not? The GW one is a 5" by 5" base(I think) and this one is only 2.25"sq
>>
>>50531018

The armor looks great, but I feel that the scrolls are lacking in depth. Normally this wouldn't be a problem, but when you have a guy who is bathing in contrast, from deep shadows to pure white highlights, those scrolls just looks.... well, bland I suppose, like its almost painted in a mono color straight of, part from the script.
>>
>>50532687

Oh, so its just a matter of equality in terms of money you where looking for?

Fucking dumbass, just admit that your a tard that totally missed the release or get a fucking airbrush already.
>>
>>50539834
i didnt consider size, it was just the first thing that popped into my head that might thematically fit
>>
>>50535377

Smells like farts though.
Oh, and can on occasions color the paint it tries to protect to a more Yellow gradient (like white turns a bit bone). Superb for those windows though! Otherwise I prefer bluetack and masking tape.
>>
>>50537133
Bitspudlo
>>
>>50536431
Keep some nozzles when you throw cans out, you need them when a nozzle gets too clogged to clear.
>>
>>50536431
>>50540034

To prevent clogs, after spraying, hold the can upside down and spray until the mist becomes lighter and clear.
>>
>>50534524
Are they supposed to be finished?
>>
>>50539049
That cloak is rad, did you sculpt it yourself?
>>
Anyone modified the B@C Dreadnought?

I've acquired a second DCCW and reversed it, but I want to make it look more dynamic, and different from the Kheres Mortis Dread I've converted from a B@C kit.

Green stuff is probably a given, but I don't really know what I can adjust on it reasonably without fucking it.
>>
>>50535415
Just yellow base on airbrush, stripes done by masking fluid and black on to that. Then rub the model with blue tack and vóila!
>>
Anons, I'm looking for a fast way to paint black power armor - I was thinking fairly light grey base, and 2-3 layers of nuln oil. Has anyone tried it?
>>
>>50531494
Either tamiya clear or Forgeworlds clear red
>>
>>50540330
If you do a layer of nuln oil gloss it might work alright actually
>>
>>50540344
What makes gloss better than matte here?
>>
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>>50540330

No

>>50540344

And definitely no

You will end up with a light grey armor with black in the recesses.

What you do instead is paint it black, and go over it with a dark grey of edge highlight, remember, your not looking to frame the model (picture related), just make those details and raised areas pop a bit. If you feel that you want to ad more depth to the model, you ad a second 50/50 mix of dark grey/light grey, and hit just the hardest edges of the more raised areas.

Think Duncan has a pretty good vid on his Deathwatch. And remember, this is the quick way of doing black, if you want to go advanced, you need to dig in to blending and working with zenithal highlighting, to increase the effect of realism.
>>
>>50540372

It doesn't, because the guy has no idea what he´s talking about. The gloss wash works kind of like an oil based wash, and is meant to work better at "spot shading". It flows better in the recesses than your average wash, and doesn't contaminate the underlaying colors as much (thus why the light grey idea is horrible!). It works even better if you use a gloss varnish before you apply it, you can then go back with a q tip and some alcohol and just clean where you don't want the wash to go, but this is a better result if you work with an airbrush. An alternative of using oil based washes so to speak.
>>
>>50540457
I hate that style of black.
Paint Gray, matte varnish then alternate black washes and filters until you get the shade you want.
>>
>>50540059
Which is fine most of the time but occasionally you get a clot of pigment from inside the can and you're fucked.

Hanging onto a couple of spare nozzles is just sensible.
>>
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I found a handful of these little metal plates and I want to use them on my bases.

They're already a nice color and with a bit of sanding and rust painted on they would look great, but I've seen this kind of thing before on other people's minis and because it's obviously real metal it looks out of place with the painted plastic.

What can I do to make it gel more with the miniature, other than just fully painting it?
>>
>>50540559
Get better paint?
>>
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>>50534511
>>
>>50540690

It's going to look weird if you don't paint it. Ever see unpainted sand on bases? It's going to look like that.
>>
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>>50535613
Thanks, I usually work on the shield at the same time, but I didn't want to skip out on painting that chest plate so I'll do that later and glue it back on with some of the chest showing.

Do you have any tips in fixing that face? At the moment its just Kislev flesh with some reikland fleshshade on it.

That guy's my last Man at Arms, and I'm hoping I can improve enough with these smaller regular infantry before moving onto the cool stuff i've put together, going to have lots of practice with 40 clanrats!
>>
>>50536911
I like him
>>
looking for advice from airbrush users, if i was to use a black for a primer with an airbrush what paint/primer would i use and also do you thin down the primer coat with medium?
>>
Is it recommended to get an airrbrush if you just started painting minis?
>>
>>50540925
Firstly, I would recommend just buying airbrush primer as it comes in the right consistency and is pretty good.
I have white and black Vallejo acrylic-polyurethane primer. I wouldn't use anything else now, it comes in 60ml bottles that last ages.

If you really want to make your own air primer, thin it down to about the consistency of milk; very slightly thicker than water. Best to use paints with a higher pigment concentration (so paint designed for priming) or you'll need to do more coats than is comfortable.
Thin down with medium or another thinning agent, not water, as stuff like minerals in the water can fuck up the paint's adhesion to the model.
>>
>>50541008
if you have the money to throw away.
It's expensive, don't dive into it unless you know you're going to stick with the hobby, best to become proficient with a brush too, because even using an airbrush you'll need to spend the majority of your time brush in hand
>>
>>50541010
ok thanks
>>
What's a good way to get a bunch of MKV jump packs to make some assault Marines from the BoP MKIV bodies that can pass as Night Raptors and regular Raptors.

I figure the glaives and axes are easy enough, but it's packs that I can't find
>>
>>50541291
try the raptors box
>>
>>50533839
Look up the buddha painting tutorial about nmm. It was my first experience with nmm and a wet pallete. The tutorials are really good.
>>50539846
Actually the scrolls have blending trying to increase the contrast between top and low zones. But i understand what you are saying about lack of contrast, i should have gone for a not so subtle aproach and meaby another color to diferenciate more the scrolls from the armor.
>>
>>50541332
Yea, that's what I'd like, but I want just want the packs. No luck on bits sites.
>>
My first mini painted in forever.
>>
>>50541502
>>
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>>50537768
This so much. I realize now that i will never have my perfect homogenous well painted army because of my progress. Why even live.
>>
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Hey /wip/, you plan to use your tg skills to gift something to your families?
>>
>>50541542
My father loves dr who, so last year I painted up a models and minis tardis for him.
>>
>>50541542
im hoping to get my hands on some stargate minis to paint for my dad, and a bust of mlk for my mom.
>>
>>50540545

>ask for black looking armor
>paint it black with simple highlights
>"mufhu... I hate that kind of black!"
>bruh... its black... wtf?


Besides, its the closest you could get to the original posters picture, but not being anal about the edge highlights (which just looks un-natural and frames the model, yea we get it Eavy metal team, you have a steady hand! Rub it in, why don't you!). So the dude asked for a quick way to paint black, while your way certainly might work it takes tons of work to get good and not look awkward with pooled shading all over a otherwise grey model. Hell, even doing regular´ol blending would be easier and probably look better. But thats not what the dude was asking for anyway.

So if you don't own an airbrush, wants to keep it simple and relatively quick, and still end up with a "black" result, >>50540457 is probably the best way to go about it.
>>
>>50540690

What this anon said, >>50540796 . Its the same idea some idiots have about not painting the sand they put on their bases, it looks of and weird, not "natural and realistic" that they think it does. Besides, black base, metal dry-brush, easy as pie.
>>
>>50541542
I made a vignette with 2 cats for my gf. i painted the cats to look like hers.
>>
>>50541672
Real black armour isn't smooth black with grey edges. It looks completely wrong, imo.

>pooled shading
There's a reason I said filters - of course you can't do it just with shades.
>>
>>50541521
Life is an eternal cycle.
You paint, you get better, you strip, you paint, you get better, etc. Even plastic can be damaged by many careless stripping.

Buy give a squad of 10 metal dudes to someone, he can do a lot of progress painting just these guys over and over again. Obviously it's a bit boring, but it's a way to progress.
>>
>>50541542
My dad used go be in painting military planes but doesn't have time anymore since he got promoted. We bought him a B-17, with me hoping he'd get back into it, but the thing is still in the box in our house in Switzerland. I think I'll go grab it this Christmas, bring it home, do it secretly, and offer him as a surprise, in a few months. Shale his birthday is in a few days, it would have been a good gift.
>>
>>50537570
Bit late to it, but I always keep the first model I've ever painted around when I'm working. I'm still amateur at best, but I've come a long way from where I started, and I'm happy with each new result I get.
>>
>>50541938

I know black isn't really black. But the guy still asked for a quick and easy way to get black armor, that is a quick and easy way to get black armor, while still making it look ok´ish (pic related).
And again, doing traditional blending would probably be easier and look better than what you suggested anyway.
Alternatively he could do a 2 step base coat (if he doesn't own an airbrush), with black first full coverage, then hitting it with a dark (real dark) grey in an angle. And then proceeding with the steps I suggested. This would create the most realistic way of doing black, in a quick way without owning an airbrush. But he didn't ask for any of this complicated stuff to begin with.
>>
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>>50542107

Fuck, forgot pic.
>>
I want to repaint my old models, how do I strip them without damaging the plastic?
>>
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>>50540068
Took it from the DA vets bits. works really well for other SM chapters or in this case word bearers.
>>
>>50542246
Easiest way I found was using denatured alcohol in a sonic cleaner, plus a toothbrush. Used it to rescue an chaos army I'm still working on.
>>
>>50539049

Good job anon, showing great progress!
>>
Is there any non retarded way to remove pieces from a metal model?
I got some nice old GW model that I'm guessing is from old Fantasy stuff. Looks like a holy man, bald guy with a warhammer in each hand, an elaborate scroll and seal on one side and a talisman on the other, and a chainmail hood over a robe. I'd rather he had a shield in his left hand than a second hammer, but is there any way I can do that without totally fucking up myself/the model besides just sculpting one awkwardly over it?
>>
>>50542412
Heavy clipper/Side cutter?
Hobby saw?
>>
>>50539720
I dunno if you have a five below near you, but I went and got a plasma orb I plan on looting. You could just add some eagles and stuff to it, and it'd look great for the imperial guard.
>>
>>50542431
I should have mentioned; the issue is that the hammer is held along his side and is thus attached along his side the whole length of its handle, rather than held out. Otherwise I'd just bend and tweak it off.
>>
>>50542412
>Is there any non retarded way to remove pieces from a metal model?
Not sure what the retarded ways are, but people usually go with clippers, files and for heavy duty stuff with a jewelers saw and a rotary tool.

Sounds like you got a warrior priest of Sigmar. Not sure which particular model, from your description though. They usually had one variant with shield and one with two handweapons. Just fyi, in case you don't want to cut the model up and go looking for another version instead.
>>
>>50542502
If it's leadfree metal and so not really old stuff, it's hard. I'd remove as much with clippers as I could and remove the rest with exacto knife, but you need decent sculpting skills to salvage the rest and cover the damage.
>>
>>50539784


Thanks, I even was worse then now simply because I care this time much more how my units look.

I will try to get better, I really appreciate your message
>>
>>50542246
Check the OP for stripping guides.
>>
>>50542826
Try Nurgles Rot for proper sci-fi green acid on your bases, btw.
>>
What colour is pre heresy thousand sons . is it ivory trim or gold? i've seen sources for both

Which looks better?
>>
Guys, has anyone got a picture of that World Eater/Kharn conversion anon posted here a while back, where the original mini was a barbarian or something, heavily muscled, wielding an axe and with a marine helmet?

I'd like to show that to a friend
>>
>>50542107
How is blending easier than applying a few filters?
>>
>>50533915
you could always buy the passenger kit from the Gorgon -- I don't think FW sells it anymore, but chinaman has it, 28 bucks for 50 krieggers at ease.

Sure, you gotta cut them all off and greenstuff some sleeves, but it's 50 krieggers!
>>
>>50542502
diamond files do the trick after you clipped away the big junks
>>
>>50542907
>Which looks better?

What does it matter to you if i like the one or the other version better.. paint it how YOU think it looks better.
>>
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Is using superglue to combine primed bits significantly less secure than assembling them before priming?
I would assume that gluing over base paint would be, but wasn't sure about primer since it (in theory) bonds to a surface.
>>
>>50543771
it will be weaker than metal-to-metal contact.
Just keep that in mind.
>>
>>50543771

>prime and paint hard-to-reach areas before assembly
>scrape primer off adjoining surfaces
>glue

Ta-dah.
>>
>>50540061
Not by a long shot, but they're going to have to stay around that level of completion till I can replace my brushes. Might do a recess shade since my wash brush is still good though.
>>
>>50543771
this: >>50543945

Glue on paint is only as strong as the paint: i.e. its not strong at all.
>>
>>50539277
M8, work your way up to white from a cream color for a more solid base. also, if you was with black, go back over everything but the recesses so it isnt just a gray stain
>>
>no warhammer advent callendar this year

welp, it sux, but at least we don't see emma anymore
>>
>>50544036
>but at least we don't see emma anymore
That's kinda mean.
I mean her tutorials weren't any worse than Duncan's.

Don't really get the hate. Was it because she's not as pretty as Dunc the Hunk
>>
>>50544036

Little point i suppose as the daily painting tips is more or less what the advent calendar was
>>
>>50544089
There are more than one option for an advent calendar though.
>>
>>50544082

My biggest criticism of her on warhammer tv is her painting was really average... In some cases pretty poor (fyreslayer video) and it was a bummer to get her painting something instead of Duncan.

I watched her twitch once and her arrogance, rudeness and unpleasant demeanour put me off completely
>>
>>50544121
>I watched her twitch once and her arrogance, rudeness and unpleasant demeanour put me off completely
Oh? First time I ever heard about that.
>>
>>50540263
Throwaway remark, but thank you so much for the blu-tack tip: I've been trying to pick masking fluid out of crevices for too long and this has just saved me a ton of time.
>>
>>50543291

Its easier because in the end you will have learned a valuable lesson that can be applied to numerous colors and models, instead of having an army of grey´ish space marines with pooled wash, creating strange shadows.

I know what your trying at, you are trying to essentially make a "dip" out of a regular can of GW wash, but it just wont work. Hell, a grey painted model, with a real army painter´s dip wouldn't even look black, it would look grey with heavy shading. And besides, you're trying to straw man yourself out of this discussion by picking topics not even related to the original posters request, he wanted a fast and easy way of painting black armor with an ok result, neither blending or your way of dull coat + several wash coats, fits that description, so just let it go.
>>
>>50539277

Start by fully painting each area of the models. Its as easy as a Childs color book. You do one area, finish that, and move to the next. And use a spray can to undercoat your models next time. To see light grey plastic where the deepest of shadows should be just looks odd.
>>
>>50544082

Dude, Duncan shows passion in his work. He is the embodiment of what a tutor should be like, both in acting and voice. He most of the time creates brilliant models with the simplest of techniques, showing new and veteran hobbyists alike, how to improve your standards without the use of an airbrush.

Emma on the other hand, as many has said, creates mediocre jobs. She explains shit, as if she was talking to a handicapped child, and that to me is quite arrogant. She presumes that the only viewers on this channel is new 8-10 year old AoS players. And thats the real difference between the two.
>>
>>50544249
Apparently you don't understand how a filter is different to a shade.

You sure as shit can't make one from GW wash.
>>
>>50544411
Not that guy but I assume by filter you mean a plain old glaze, right?
>>
>>50544485
Not that guy but color filters are usually done with oil paints.

Say you got a white tank. Then you apply a whole bunch of tiny dots from various color ranging from red to yellow green and blue.
You use a medium to work those into the underlying color creating color variation.

Don't know if that is what this discussion is about though.
Seems like the two guys arguing are talking about different stuff but don't clarify.
>>
>>50544411

Sorry, missed the part of filter, well thats for reading half way through a comment. But ether way, your still straw strawmanning through the conversation, and how on earth would using a filter be an easy way to create black armor for a beginner. Explain to me how you would not end up with a weirdly shaded model (as the filter is only the darkening effect left over after washing with oil wash) that has pooling that simply wont look natural.
I can agree, the method I recommended (base black, and do simple edge highlights on places that would naturally reflect light), doesn't necessarily give the best result, but its easy to learn and gives a relatively quick and ok result. Exactly what the original poster asked for.
But to say "no man, you need to prime dull, then experiment with oil washes to create a filter effect, then work your way with several layers on a light grey base, until you have a blackish result!", thats just a bad tip in my book. And yes, I would still encourage said anon to practice blending, as it is (just as edge highlights) a skill you will carry with you in this hobby, and use time and time again.
>>
>watching Duncus tutorial Magnus
>everything superb
>but then he makes those fucking horns
>so goddamn sloppy
>no blending or anything
>on freaking focal point of mini

I'm having dobuts in our lord and saviour.
>>
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Off it goes
>>
>>50544485

A filter is a term commonly used when using oil washes. Its the smudge left behind that darkens the model, usually you take a q-tip with alcohol and just remove it. But yes, I do indeed believe he thinks using oil wash as a "glaze" is a great idea to create black armor for a beginner who wants a quick and easy way of getting an ok result.
>>
>>50544681
That's a standard way they paint horns on warhammer tv m80. Honestly I don't think Duncan is allowed to show blending.
>>
>>50544716

You sick fuck! Mutilating some poor Japanese guy, taking his junk and sending it to a fellow /wip/... thats just wrong man!
>>
>>50544716
>people sending big boxes
>could only afford a single mini
I'm sorry, anon. I hope you'll forgive me
>>
>>50544762
It's a cliche but it's genuinely the thought that counts. People will always go over the suggested amount. Nobody will get uppity because their secret santa only sent them *some* cool new stuff instead of loads.
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