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WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting Genera

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No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>I am the hammer! I am the point of His spear! I am the mail about His fist! I am the bane of His foes!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjaYW5Cnr5k

>Previous Threads:
>>50309800
>>50285167
>>50270647
>>50243272
>>50325810
>>
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Working on an old boyz model turned into a tankbusta nob
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Stuck this in hhg earlier, it's a conversion of the cataphractii captain from BaC. Thought I'd wait for a new wip, who wants to be post 300 in a dying thread?. Need to finish the volkite hand, though I'm tempted to use the one from BoP. Anyone know a really flat paint-on matt varnish? The vallejo I have is still too glossy.
>>
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I thought about going for all bare heads, but thought better of it.
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Almost there , need some final touch ups. 30k Modded Iron Warriors

I'm pretty proud of these guys. I've been playing since 1999 but due to a mix of dyspraxia , a disorganised personality and taking it a little too to heart when a GW store manager told 9 year old me I had no painting potential I've shamefully never had a fully painted army I've completed from scratch so this will be a first all ready for a 1750 game against Eldar Thursday.
>>
>>50349124
>Anyone know a really flat paint-on matt varnish? The vallejo I have is still too glossy.
I have a really old pot of GW matt varnish. That is pretty matte.
I heard other people swear by tamiya products though.

Love what you've done with the model btw. Head is full of character and the paintjob is really good too.
>>
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I painted the starweaver with vallajo air but it was too dark when manually painting the player so I tried matching it with GW equivalent. How well do the colors match?
>>
>>50349174
>dyspraxia
Had to look that up. That sucks.

>a GW store manager told 9 year old me I had no painting potential
That's a dick move towards any 9 year old.

Anyway. On the whole the minis seems to have a decent tabletop standard.
The elephant in the room are obviously the stripes. I think you should try to use spray paint and masking tape or stencils to get a cleaner result here.

Kudos for doing what you want and not giving a fuck.
>>
>>50349174
>a GW store manager told 9 year old me I had no painting potential

What a fucking cunt.

I think your models look pretty damn good, and are certainly better than plenty of models painted by people who aren't suffering diminished motor skills.

Like >>50349219 said, if you can find something to aid with your stripes, your army will be bang on.
>>
>>50349174
I think you could really benefit from cutting down on the freehand stuff as much as possible. The hazard stripes, shoulderpads, and IV markings just aren't clean and I'm sure yellow being involved didn't help since it's a difficult color to paint in the first place. You could try to seek out stencils to use for legion numerals and thin masking tape for hazard stripes, it would definitely fix the most glaring problems with the paint job.
>>
>>50349175

Thanks, he's my best work to date. He's been a bit of a test-bed for me, first go at bits of sculpting and various painting techniques, even tried a smidge of OSL on the sword hilt.
>>
>>50349181

Looks pretty close to me.
>>
>>50349161
These are sublime.
>>
>>50349124
oh shit, I remember you posting this WiP ages back! looks really nice!
>>
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fuck it they'll do. Proper space wolves box next as opposed to this 'upgrade' bullshit.
>>
>>50349161
lovely
>>
>>50349174
The only thing that sucks is the hazard stripes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAq5Dy2tRHo&
Go back and use some masking tape and try that at it'll look a billion times better
>>
>>50349433

Yeah, I shelved it when I got to the pturges, I couldn't be arsed at the time. Turns out they're not too tough, though it took some thought to figure out what to use for the little studs. Went for grains of salt in the end. Still, I should have finished the thing a good six months ago. Now to make a start on the characters from BoP, see you some time in 2018
>>
Finally finished painting my first and last set, stormcast eternals. They look... handpainted. I tried my best and they look good... from a distance.

I have no fucking idea how you guys do it. I couldn't do the details right, it was just impossible.

Anyway, thank you for all the help and tips.
>>
>>50349693
did you thin your paints and get a nice tip on your brush?

did you paint all the details?

did you apply washes?

did you go back and highlight the edges?

If yes to all of these, then the rest comes with practice.
>>
>>50349124
>>50349175
Related, anyone know of a good airbrushable acrylic matte top coat? Tried some model masters the other day, shit immediately clouded my minis. Luckily I had a leftover can of testors and saved them.
>>
Hey guys, what sort of tool do you use for applying liquid greenstuff to fill small gaps? A standard brush doesn't seem firm enough. I've found this stuff great for tiny gaps that aren't worth mixing the regular stuff together for, but application could be better.
>>
>>50349693

If you thin your paints, apply multiple layers and highlight and wash properly (and not too much), you can make the mini look smooth and pretty good

Color choice is very important though
>>
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Kill xenos or die tryin'. Chronicles of a space pimp.

Time to detail the weapons soon, which I'm hoping to really bling out as fitting of Rogue Traders.
>>
>>50349876

Cant get over the fact that the dude has a space marine armor arm
>>
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>>50349876
What ethnicity is this?
>>
>>50349902
Its his pimp hand. The better to slap bitch-ass xenos with the might of his Spiritual Liege
>>
>>50349712

Yeah, I thinned my paints, no wash yet, I'll do it at some point.

It's not a thick paint kind of shit, it's more like "there is paint on the piece next to it or around it when there shouldn't be" kind of shit. For example, on the shoulders and shields, the details are painted but it also went around them.
>>
>>50349876
your primer is all fucked up and sandy. good colours so far though.
>>
>>50350056
I suspect the grainy texturing might be a side effect of priming in cold weather or using a dusty box to prime in. Would a lot of paint layers hide alleviate this?
>>
>>50349219
>>50349261
>>50349274
>>50349485

Thanks for all the kind words and advice. I'll definitely look to doing proper hazard stripes with taping for the next batch, I've got 30 real MKIII marines now so hopefully I can create a better look on those!
>>
>>50349124
Daler-Rowney Matt Varnish is super flat, but you need to shake and stir the shit out of it before working with it.
>>
>>50350145
Tamiya 2mm, 3mm, and 5mm masking tape is a saviour for that stuff - the 2mm is perfect for shoulder pads.

I really like that army and those old dreads are awesome, but going back with masking tape to fix the hazard stripes will make that army look amazing.
>>
>>50349950
[Spoiler]Fixxxer[/spoiler]
>>
I'm planning to repaint my Emperors Children into Angels of Ectasy and now I'm trying to figure out how to achieve this fleshy pink color scheme, would a base of Ratskin Flesh -> Eldar Flesh drybrushing -> Carroburg Crimson wash come close?
>>
>>50349977
brush control comes with practice, but you can also neaten up after
>>
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My Avatar of Khaine
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>>50350508
>>
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Ork conversions are best conversions
>>
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Posting from phone. Sorry if pic it huge.
But, based the Patriarch with blood sewage. I think I like it, but I'll likely add a corpse later when I get the bits.
>>
>>50350596
where is this from?
>>
>>50350992
http://www.blacklibrary.com/all-products/40k-slaanesh-painting.html?basket_add=1&basket_item=9321
>>
>>50351034
huh, didn't know about these, nice.
>>
>>50351034
>epub
into the trash it sadly goes.
>>
>>50351180

>He can't use epubs in [current year]

wew lad
>>
So far this hobby has taught me.

>make more than one fucking attempt as stuff (edge highlights) before you decide you're shit at it
>resin is harder than plastic
>you didn't need that part of your finger
>fucking leatherman
>>
>>50351219
nope, I can't. it's not much harder than that.
>>
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>>50351245
Fuck you.
>>
>>50351402
>that meme
looking back on it, that meme was pretty strange

but it was the greatest thing back then
>>
>>50351262
Readium for Chrome, works very well in my opinion.
>>
>>50350577
Need a better pic, but that's looking really good, same scheme I would want on an avatar of my own.
>>
>>50351928
I would, but I don't use chrome.
>>
>>50351262
Plenty free shit. Sumatra works fine.
>>
>>50352267
I thought this way too, I downloaded chrome and only use it for readium. it is actually nicer than scrolling through a .pdf imo.
>>
>>50352513
>using google botnet for anything
>>
Finally magnetized my Tech-Priest Dominus, was a bitch to do, especially the head.

Now to figure out how to go about painting him.
>>
>>50353443
>especially the head.
why would you magnetize the head
>>
>>50353704
Helmets on or off? Bit far maybe.
>>
Please validate my existance - http://imgur.com/a/NXKPO
No need to vote, please just love me ;-;
>>
>>50353704
Because I want to be able to switch between the hood and the hat.
>>
>>50353910
Consider yourself validated. Or should I say vindicated?
>>
>need 1 extra Transuranic Arquebus
>those eBay bit prices on them

Shit, this is dumb.
>>
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Is the petard too big for him?
>>
>>50353910
>that writing on the tank
maybe that SJW blog was actually right?
>>
>>50350140
No im afraid not anon. Trust me. Ive gotten it too. Strip and repaint. its the only way
>>
>>50354033
No.
>>
>>50354033
Nah that looks pretty fucking cool m8
>>
>>50349174
I do recommend the masking tape as well. Grab the 6mm from tamiya, or smaller if you can find any. If not, just neatly cut it in half while following a ruler to have strips of 3mm, should be enougj for most stripes.

>That huge ass missile launcher on one of the Cataphractii
What happened here?
>>
>>50354033
Just give him and eyepatch, and you've got your Captain Yarr and his trusty daemonic naval cannon.
>>
>>50354004
:3
>>50354111
About what? Don't trigger me you omnigendered cisgod.
>>
>>50354276
He's the sergeant so I thought I'd make him distinct and gave him a havoc missile from the rhino kit . Bit OTT but thought it looked cool
>>
How do I thin metallics properly?
>>
Kinda new to painting metal. Do I still prime like normal. Anything different/watch for compared to painting plastics?
>>
>>50355079
use a thinner/medium.
>>
>>50355115

So not water, right?
>>
>>50355111
>Anything different/watch for compared to painting plastics?
Not really.
You should be cleaning your plastic before priming too, but for metals that is a little more important. If you still got mold release agent on your model while priming the paint it much more likely to chip off later on.

Other than that the only difference is the weight. So working on big metal kits can be a bit tiring in the truest sense of the word, since it put a little more stress on your wrists.

Nothing major though.
>>
>>50349036
That's quite a simple conversion but I think it looks top notch. Nice work

>>50349181
Colours match up fine imo, looks great in general, love the speckled stars.

>>50349443
Crisp, multiple colours, nicely done contrasting bases (snow is overdone with SW's)

>>50350599
Simple and clean conversions and paintjob, base looks a smidge barren though, but that's just me
>>
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>>50349950
>What ethnicity is this?

Colombian-American.
>>
Is there a /tg/ guide to what paint-on primers are good somewhere that I haven't found?
>>
>>50346745

How about chopping up some minis you already have in preparation for the project, only to forget all about it, and then you go back later for another project and find your minis ruined?

>feels like shit, man
>>
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>>50349174

Messy hazard stripes aside your dudes look pretty sweet. I really dig that missile launcher on the sergeant's back.
Also, we should go find that GW manager and kick his ass. I know it was a long time ago, but was he like... serious when he said it? Like just being a dick for no reason?
>>
>>50356778
No, the whole cycle kind of expresses itself in me often times finding duplicates of the same mini, cause I completely forgot that I already bought that one for that other project I planned, but never got around to.

Anyway for a while I had a thing about wanting to have each miniature 'as intended' in addition to my conversions.

I'm a total mess when it comes to this.
>>
>>50349174
Literally the only thing I can see needing improvement would be the spikes. Everything else is actually really good.
>>
>>50350599

The brass balls are a nice touch
>>
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Not sure where else on this site I this is appropriate.

I spent 5 hours today painting and assembling this. It's the first time I've done any sort of modeling since I was a kid back in like 2001 and I don't like to think about how I painted then.

How do I thin enamel paint? I did 1:1 with testors enamel thinner to paint for the transmission and 2:3 for the engine block. The metallic was runny as shit but the red seemed a bit too thick. I'm going to be brushing all my small parts and doing rattle can for the body. I feel pretty confident with the rattle can.

Cant really afford get really into it but I'm currently getting a feel for cars doing a '69 Camaro. Trying to make a gift for my dad by recreating the challenger he had as a kid.

Is it appropriate to post updates here?
>>
>>50349174
Don't take what that GW dick said to heart anon. He's probably salty he's in his 40's, virgin, loveless, obese, greasy, never had any other job and his only friends are people who use his store just to play with their friends and not actually him.

Your models look pretty sick
>>
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>>50349174
>taking it a little too to heart when a GW store manager told 9 year old me I had no painting potentia
remember duncan's first model whenever someone says that your painting is shit and you will never be good.
>>
>>50356766
The Vallejo one is shilled quite regularly.
>>
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To which game does pic related minis belong to?
Can't figure out.
/40kg/ say it does not belong to 40K
Malifaux General has not responded
You're my last chance /WIP/ !
>>
>>50359594
http://www.ageoftyrants.com/index.php/galleries/models/viridians-inf/393-sniper

looks like
>>
>>50359714
yea maybe not actually
>>
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>>50359594
>>50359714
It looks like Rackham's Cadwallon snipers.
But not sure, I'm not old enough to be Rackham expert
>>
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>>50359594
>>50359947
Rackham:
Griffins Of Akkylannie Fusillers
You're welcome
>>
>>50349036
Not to be a party pooper, but can Nobz use rokkit launchers at all? Cool model, is that rokkit clip custom made?
>>
>>50349174
Other than hazard stripes those are really good looking. You made false Emperor proud!
>>
>>50359045
Posting WIP no matter the hobby is fine, the constant updates are commonly a bad idea unless you are seeking critique so trying stuff. That being said, WIP is dominated by 40k stuff followed by more models that don't use enamel paints so you might be best served seeing what other parts of the internet offer in advice for dealing with those paints. My basic recommendation would be thin the red more if it's too thick and see if you and thicken the metalics if you think it's too thin. The block, spark plugs. cylinders all look fine to me though. Look into seeing if there is an enamel friendly wash, it's basically liquid talent
>>
>>50359045
Sure, people post random minis they are working on all the time.
>>
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So I'm trying to pimp my solitaire a bit and want to make him look like he's jumping through a webway portal instead of vaulting over debris. I'm utterly shit at greenstuff so I'm wondering if there are any bitz that can work as a webway gate,from GW and otherwise.
Also I'm planning to put the solitaire and portal on a dreadnought sized base to make a mini diorama. Would he still be playable then?
>>
>>50360288
couldn't you magnetise for multiple bases?
>>
>>50360352
Well not magnetise because I move my model by picking them up, but maybe make a depression on the decor where I can put in the smaller base.
>>
>>50360288
friend its no problem. Cut out 2 ovals from some plasticard. Drill holes where the cloak lands on the oval into only one of the pieces. put pins in those holes. glue plasticard together.

Get a mild amount of green stuff or some laytex edging material to put around the edge of the mirror/portal.
>>
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Grotbomb launcha complete, just need to magnatize the bombs.
>>
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>>50360394
And from the otherside.
>>
>>50359045
You can thin enamal with paint thinner.

Why enamels though? I've heard the colors or more vibrant but they are way harder to work with than modern acrylics.
>>
>>50360394
>>50360401
>that orky extended chimera
I swear ork players always know what's up when it comes to this stuff. It is mercilessly unfair that the rules for their units are so horrible bad.
>>
>>50360401
Holy fuck that's good
>>
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Thought I would try my luck again and see if anyone could help out.
Looking to achieve the following bases but unsure how to proceed with paint colours to achieve in image, what colour to base/layer/drybrush etc
How would you approach to replicate the attached image colours
>>
>>50360401
This is art.
>>
>>50348837
Painting black. Do you paint black and highlight grey, or paint dark grey, shade actual black and highlight lighter grey?

Is there one of those /tg/ compilation pictures for black like there is white?
>>
>>50360804
I prefer to paint it black and highlight with dark blues, such as Dark Reaper > Thunderhawk Blue or Russ Grey.
>>
>>50349124
Ak Interactive Ultra matte.
>>
>>50359045
Probably give the enamels a miss. Making life difficult for yourself.
>>
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Does current GW sand still have the bigger bits mixed in?
>>
>>50361393
Nope
>>
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>>50361407
>>
>>50361393
Warlord Games and other companies have sand with bigger bits.
>>
Who secret santa here?
>>
>>50359045
Mineral spirits for enamels. Also /toy/ usually has either a modelmaking or Gundam/Japanese mecha model general (usually both):
>>>6033730
>>>6016607
>>
>>50361629
Herpa derp, I know how to cross link, honest...
>>>/toy/6033730
>>>/toy/6016607
>>
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>>50361425
looks legit thanks
>>
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Since no Warmahordes thread is up, I guess Ill post here.

As mentioned in my earlier posts regarding this battle group, the models where shit quality. And as of my personal agenda, I put in to the model, the work it deserves. Thus, here you see nothing to fancy. I did a quick job trying to get the box done as quickly as possible, and try to get away with it by using some cheep OSL tricks to make it look fancy across the table.
In all honesty, I'm happy that bane witch agitha doesn't look like a melted candle, in regards to her miniature quality.

Anyways, enough complaining form my part, here´s a photo of the group. I think they fill the part, and does a good table top standard. c&c are welcome.
>>
>>50361890

Oh man, the photo got out more gritty than Id expected. Well, thats Swedish sunlight at its brightest this time a year...
>>
>>50360030
Don't all Tankbustaz have rocket launchers, including their Nob?

I haven't played tabletop since last edition I think, so it might be different now. Or I might be remembering wrong.
>>
>>50362215

The metal models have several guys with just melta charges and stikkbombs and a bomb squigg
>>
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>>50362437
The only ones I know of are these ones, all of which have rokkits except the guy with the tankhammer.

Also in the 7th edition codex, they all have rokkit launchas.
>>
>>50362469

Maybe I'm thinking stikkbomma's then?
>>
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>>50362613
Oh wait, is it these guys?

These were the old Tankbustas - basically just Slugga Boys with Tankbusta Bombs who sucked because of the old Glory Hog rule.
>>
How could I paint gold on cloth, like a cape, to look a little different from the look of gold metal? I assume gold clothing material would still have some sheen, but not exactly like metal?
>>
>>50363260

Non metallic metal is what you want, guides are everywhere online with varying degrees of difficulty. Youtube has a lot of videos on it.
>>
>>50361890
>Since no Warmahordes thread is up, I guess Ill post here
It's WIP, you can post whatever you want. GW just happens to be the most popular.
>>
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army progress update
>>
>>50363347
They're looking great!
>>
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Turning my crashed SW drop pod doors from my armies on parade board into objective markers for wrath of magnus. Thoughts? I havent painted the rocks yet.
>>
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>>50363473
From behind
>>
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box for the boys. Never used this typhus shit before might've went overboard.
>>
>>50363347
god, it's so crisp and nice!
really like what you did with the commander, turning him into a Chaplain!
>>
>>50363473
Looks like the base you're using for it is a little small. Also you need a lot more smaller pieces of rubble to balance the large pieces.
>>
>>50363567
I probably should've done it on a bike base, but I didn't have any laying around. And I'll try the smaller rubble.
>>
>got my first paints in today
my god, gw paints are so adorable. looking at the website, I thought they'd be big, but nope, they're cute and tiny. I love it.

I dont even know why I didn't think they'd be this small, considering I know how large the contents are, and that I've seen hundreds of painting videos...
>>
>>50363534
Looks alright, but less is more, anon.
>>
>>50363347 Where are the bases from?
>>
Anyone know how tall a Nurgling model is?

I originally was thinking of using Brimstone Horrors as a Count As Nurgling until I noticed how tiny they were. (Near grot size).

And the Nurgling towers seem to be about Plaguebearer height, but couldn't find a good picture to help.

Thanks for the help!
>>
>>50364096
Yea I got carried away re-doing it.
>>
Just worked with Retarder Medium for the first time to try blending. Is it normal that the paint looks so thick and chalky, even after thinning with what feels like 3 liters of water? Is it only like that while it's still wet or did I fuck something up?
>>
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>>50364138
I made them
>>
>>50364163
Did you use the Vallejo retarder? You have to be very careful to use only a tiny amount or otherwise it makes the paint gloopy and it dries very strangely.
>>
>>50360394
>>50360401
Rocking!
>>
>>50349124
Don't usually comment, but I really like the power flamberge and model in general. Shit looks cash
>>
>>50364224
Yeah, using the Vallejo one. Probably got too much into my paints, tho that shit is really fucking hard to actually measure since it just splurts out half the time.

Gonna have to look how to maybe counteract that shit a bit. Maybe just gonna put some varnish or wash on and then re-highlight if necessary.
>>
>>50360394
>>50360401
This is great.
>>
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toned it down a bit
>>
>>50364197
Did you greenstuff a large piece of metal floor and then cut it up, or did you stuff the pieces individually, or did you buy them and they happened to be green? Solid use of cork.
>>
>>50363347
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JfEJq56IwI
>>
>>50364620
Looks like he used one of these, if I were to guess. Made a big flat sheet of GS, let it dry and snipped it into parts.

Really solid finished product though!
>>
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I don't know if I love or hate the crest/heraldry like this. Wanted to do something other than the plain colour or metal you usually see.
>>
>>50364700
I think it looks good m8
>>
>>50364729
tanks, m8

It's interesting painting stuff that isn't space men with guns for a change.
>>
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>>50364700
Painted is historically accurate, if it means anything. Tournament crests were normally made of wood.
>>
>>50364700
Maybe paint the beak something other than yellow. It looks like a toucan rather than a griffon.
>>
>>50364620
did a print roll on a long strip of greenstuff that I rolled out flat, and then cut base-width pieces out of that
>>
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>>50364908
Mostly the sculpt, I think. But I'll try working on it a bit since it is pretty goofy looking.

>>50364853
I was trying to research what the actual crests of the times looked like, but it was surprisingly hard to find much in my tentative googling.
>>
>>50364928
The bases are a bit too dark for the visual clarity of the Imperial Fists, it makes them harder to look at and appreciate. Apply some orange pigment or don't shade it as hard. Good paintjob otherwise.
>>
>>50363347
Can anyone tell me what the guns are on the right side, with the green glow?
>>
>>50364971
thx for your input but nah. I want the bases to contrast the models.

>>50365002
telerac pattern volkite culverins from forgeworld. Gonna use them as proxy for grav
>>
>>50364961
>I was trying to research what the actual crests of the times looked like, but it was surprisingly hard to find much in my tentative googling.

The were not actually worn during the fighting and not a lot of them survived.
Wikipedia has a nice article on them though.
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helmkleinod
German version cause it has pictures of the real things.

Terms to google for
Helmkleinod, Helmzier, Cimir, Zimier or Clainot
>>
>>50360761
The way I'd do it is thus, though i'd be experimenting as I went to get the right overall blue/grey tone I wanted
>rolling pin the greenstuff, prime black
>base everything except the gold with eshin grey
>add a few layers, drybrushed, of dawnstone to all the raised areas
>apply a 50/50 mix of nuln oil and seraphim sepia to the rubble, 100% nuln oil thinned down at a ratio of 1 nuln to 3 water/thinner into the recesses
>administratum grey drybrush onto the raised areas, but you don't want it to cover everything
>optional glaze of very thing fenrsian grey over the tiles, then repeat previous step
>drybrush little bits of ulthuan grey/edge highlight with it

The gold would be base retributor armour, build up with your choice of layer (such as gehenna gold) then seraphim sepia wash and a drybrush of silver
>>
>>50365342
>The were not actually worn during the fighting and not a lot of them survived.
Reading through the article it seems I have to correct myself.
They were worn as a means to identify knights during battle.
Seems a little impractical, but badass non the less.

During tournament later you were supposed to destroy your opponents crest apparently. Those were made of wood or papermache. Easily destroyed.
>>
>>50365342
>The were not actually worn during the fighting
oh, yeah, I knew that much man

I didn't think to search in other languages, but the english wiki page wasn't too bad, even if not that informative.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crest_(heraldry)
>>
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Bought a vulkan stripped and tried to salvage how'd I do?
>>
The Citadel "Layer" paints are usually thin enough to not need additional water, right?

Trying to apply some over Imperial Primer.
>>
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>>50364961
>>50365342
If you're interested, Reaper produces some heraldric knights with big fuckhuge goofy crests on their helmets.
>>
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>>50365485
Considered it, but I'm (mostly) sticking to old GW perry models.

I am not looking forward to tracking down the knight of the realm hero and his mounted version.
>>
>>50364601
Looks good
>>
>>50364140
Nurglings are something like a 1 cm tall.
>>
>cut thumb yesterday
>forget about it
>pick up miniature by a claw
>one finger shoved directly into the cut

These are some of the worst pains I ever felt related to miniature painting.
>>
>>50365669

I take it you haven't dropped your hobby knife onto your bare foot yet, or stepped on a piece of pinning material aimed straight up.

At least I still have all my toes, I'm thankful for that.
>>
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I need a paint scheme for my Harlequins. Thinking of either White / Red or White / Purple. Any suggestions?
>>
>>50364700
Hello beautiful bretonnia. how i've missed you.
>>
>>50365669
I had a tube of plastic glue explode into my eyes and mouth once.

had to blindly stumble down two flights of stairs to get to a sink to wash it out.
>>
>>50366079
At least it wasn't superglue.
>>
>>50365669
so far, my worst pain is getting the space marine starter kit, and having to open those extra small gw paint bottles (half the size of normal ones)
with basically nothing to grip on, I just have to use the end of my thumb to open it, and its already numb after opening a couple.
>>
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There's no Warmahordes thread so I'll post here. How's my Xerxis looking from the back? I'm proud at how the cape turned out. Camera is shit I know.
>>
>>50365859

Azure and purple, white looks like shit in almost all cases when applied to such tiny details. If you must, try vallejo ivory or a similar paint, but it's going to be a pain in the ass to paint.
>>
>>50365101
Thanks
>>
>>50366181
Blurry
>>
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>>50365859
I realize you did not ask for that, but anyways: I am starting a small Harlequin Troupe myself, I went for b/w as base colours...

I think (dark) purple and white could work even better. Red/White could surely look awesome too, but it makes me think of Saim-Han or Skitaari, but that's just me...
>>
what is a good way to base miniatures without flat foot? i.e sharp footed dryads.
>>
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>>50365990
slowly but surely, we're getting there

>classic GW heater shields are 11$ for two
>need at least seven for my skirmish band
[muffled knightly screaming]
>>
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>>50366396
If you think that's bad, get a load of THIS.
>>
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Trying to figure out how to color the bases for my Eldar army. Their color scheme is pic related, and I need to choose a color for the ground and a color for the ruins I have them standing on.

I'm trying to avoid dark grey (color of my BA bases), orange (Necrons), and brown (Tyranids).
>>
>>50366538
overgrown light grey ruins
>>
>>50366489
That is a very nice looking Warband you have there. Good painting! The girl's blonde hair looks exquisite, congrats on that!

what happened to brother-sergeant Peasant-Friend of the Ultramarines, who photobombed on of your last groupshots?
>>
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Robe didn't turn out nearly as expected and for some reason ended up looking way too thick, but the rugged, dirty look on it actually kind of fits. Also really like how the blue turned out (though admittedly it's hard to see the shimmery detail on a photo).

Thinking of maybe painting the neck trimm and the sleeves of the robe red to have a bit of the typical mechanicus red in the model, not sure how badly it'd clash with the rest though. Also still trying to figure out what kind of metal to use for the claws, tendrils and other parts like the power axe. Not sure if also Runefang Steel or maybe Gehanna's Gold washed with Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade.

Apologies for the huge image, have yet to find a way to resize properly onmy phone and the minimum resolution is still way too fucking high.
>>
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>>50365455
You'll still want to thin them a bit.
>>
>>50366613
He's finished, but is overseeing the assembly of my horus heresy plastic dudes.
>>
>>50365350
Thank you very much for this, I will give this a go as my starting point
>>
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Working on a laser lance Autarch with banshee mask.

I've use a space marine head for the mask, and I really like the plume bit (from Slaanesh Hellstiders), but does it look wonky like this? Opinions?

Still need to some green-stuffing to fix seams if I go with it.
>>
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>>50367190
Bits looks like this, how would you merge them?
>>
>>50367190
I think it looks pretty good, but you'll want to bulk his shoulder area up a little to match
>>
does anyone know which the model is the best to turn into a Doomguy? I have a friend who loves DOOM and I figured I'd do something cool for him for Christmas this year.
>>
>>50365455
Thin your paints
>>
>>50367383
You can use Anvil Industries custom squad builder quite well to make Doom Guys.
A squad of 5 should cost something like £14,50 or so.
http://anvilindustry.co.uk/Regiments/Regiments-Custom-Squad-Builder/regiments-custom-combat-squad
They have other options too if you want to personalize them more or get more guys.
>>
What are some good replacement wings for a Lord of Change? Mine are long gone.
>>
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>>50367222
>>50367190
Sounds like a good idea.

Did a mockup for the rest of him, still very much WIP.

Does it look enough? I might have some wraithguard bits I could use for bigger shoulder pads.

I'm a bit undecided on the skyweaver bike. I'm considering if I should do some combination of the craftworld and harlequin bike hood and chassi.
>>
>>50366489
What model is that girl?
>>
>>50367503
>shitty, non gw, 3rd party resin models that look awful
Nothx
>>
>>50367671
http://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?product=alicia~hfh060&category=fantasy-%26%0D%0Asteampunk~fantasy-humans
>>
>>50367671
>>50367726

These constant questions made me kinda want to order her.

She is in stock here btw:
http://www.shop.battlefield-berlin.de/index.php/katalog/artikelinfo/27903-1-show-alicia.html
>>
Spent some time today basecoating my Baal Predator. Thinking I really need an airbrush. Lot of money though.
>>
>>50367844
Can't really recommend hasslefree enough. They're quality.
>>
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The first two new Daemonettes are done.
>>
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>>50367896
And a bunch more built - only a few left for my 20 new ones now.
>>
>>50367895
I've yet to try their minis. But they have a couple of really awesome minis i've seen so far.. Pic related for example.
>>
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>>50367383
>>
>>50349181
Wow, that looks fantastic. You did a fantastic job with this.
>>
>>50360394
>>50360401
Mate, your Ork tanks are always absolutely da bomb.
>>
>Building Kastelans
>Accidentally used the feet from one of the sprues to build the legs from the other sprue
>Bottom half of Kastelan now looks like it's running at full tilt instead of walking

Well... I can make this work, I guess?

I'm planning to have them equipped with phosphor cannons, so having one arm extended and the other lowered would look neat?
>>
Is game color as bad for separation as some say?
>>
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>>50367383
I'd say Sly Marbo, although you'll have to convert it.
Alternatively, a 3rd party SM equivalent with the ODST helmets from Pig Iron could work well to make DOOMslayer since hes has more of a powerarmor
>>
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Been painting this chaos lord for a local competition
I now have to do something nice for the base
>>
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>>50368294
>>
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>>50368294
>>50368314
>>
do you guys use a magnifying glass for painting or something? I can see most detailing just fine, but not things like the lens boundaries for space marines.
>>
>>50363534
looks like you fucked a wolf with it.
>>
From a purely model quality/painting perspective, what are the nicest models you can recommend? I just want some stuff to paint, I don't care about wargaming. I've been browsing model companies ranges but I would value some input from anons that have actual experience with them
>>
>>50368918
I havent painted them before, but scibor's miniatures are fucking amazing looking.
>>
>>50368918
http://infinitythegame.com/catalogue/

pretty nice
>>
>>50368918
Red Box Games do some amazing minis.
>>
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>>50368905
rolled it back somewhat
>>
>>50369168
looks like you rimmed a wolf with it.
>>
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Did a colour mock up for my KoW elf army.

What do you guys think?
>>
More of a pre-WIP question I suppose.

I'm painting up a dangles army and decided to do a knight to go along with them. I think i want to keep to the fluff and do an aligned house or freeblade and not just put DA markings on it.

Problem is I can't decide if he should be green like the bulk of the army or black to match Ravenwing, it being a vehicle. House Vyronii sounds cool for green but I can't find any houses that use black. I suppose I could even do bone to match the Deathwing...
>>
Is it ok to leave GW paint in my trunk when it's cold? I like to paint at my LGS, and I don't like taking it up 5 stories, going to sleep, then taking it back down.
>>
>>50369301
I like the green, but did you dip it? The whole thing looks utterly chaotic.
>>
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>>50369543
srsly tho, if shit's getting down to freezing, definitely bring them in.
>>
>>50369543
How cold is cold? Freezing paint is usually a Bad Thing.
>>
>>50369543
Depends, are they oil or water based?

Oil, no prob.

Water, bring them in. Water crystals will fuck em up.
>>
Anyone have the BoP IW paint guide? I can't remember how they did the scratches on them and I really liked the effect.
>>
>>50366453
Reminds me of A Clockwork Orange, for some reason. Which can only be a good thing.
>>
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Basis for a good conversion here. Official GW Harridan is pictured in front; won't stick on a base unless greenstuff'd to it. Plastic gargoyle bodies are the same size. Lictors picture because reasons. Next step, find a head that fits. Gargoyle heads are huge compared to their bodies and complete kill the sense of scale, so I need to find a small head, like the metal Harridan has. Arms should be an issue, I'm thinking regular arms that end in gun barrels. If you're wondering why I'm building conversions when I own a real one, its because I need to field several, and I'm not paying reseller scum 30 bucks for a fucking gargoyle sized mini.

Once I find a suitable head (could take a while), the conversions will begin.
>>
>>50369633
>>50369645
>>50369657

Guess I gotta bring them in then. Shit. Hope I didn't ruin them.
>>
>>50369631
I washed it with Army Painter Strong Tone ink, then highlighted it with lighter colours.

What do you mean by chaotic? Are you talking about the colour scheme or the paint job?
>>
So I found this guy today...

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/685706.page

Don't mean to shame too much, his bodies are nice and I can't even greenstuff for shit. But my GOD those faces...
>>
Scientific question:
Does anyone has msds or ingredients of any flow improver for acrylics? I work in chemistry lab, so I figure I could make me some that would be paid by state.
>>
>>50369301
That's um, certainly interesting...

>>50369879
I think what he means, is that there's paint and colours everywhere. Like the flesh is all too dark and muddy, but then the armour is just flat slabs of bright green, and my god there is a real mix of paint all over that spear shaft. It looks like you've just randomly dipped it in various colours and than slapped a thick layer of green on all the armour.
>>
>>50369301
The green is a cool copper looking effect, but the rest is splotchy and indistinct.
>>
>>50368294
>>50368314
Sexy as fuck. I love that pose too, still have that mini sitting around somewhere in my collection, unpainted, just waiting for AoS to get better before I get interested in doing a Tzeentch army.

>hah, I don't need a shield for these wimps!
>>
>>50369906
If you read his posts, it's clear he knows... but yow.

Forever
Acquiring
Important
Lessons
>>
>>50370103
It still baffles me that he doesn't just use actual heads all the time (since he already does it on a few of his sculpts), and it still doesn't change the fact that the faces look hilarious.

Again, not trying to really shame the guy, was just posting something I found amusing.
>>
>>50368129
Pics?
>>
>>50370133
Presumably he wants to get better at sculpting faces. If you want to get better at sculpting faces, you sculpt faces until you get to a point where you're satisfied with the results.
>>
>>50370178
Right, but you could sculpt faces independently of the body.
>>
>>50370186
Well sure, if you wanted to make _sensible_ use of your time and materials...
>>
>>50370278
I don't get what point you're trying to make here. I also don't get why you're trying to defend this guy so hard when I've said multiple times now that I have no ill-will against this guy.
>>
>>50370178
The thing that gets me though, is that the Master (Mistress?) of the Fleet looks pretty okay... but then we see the fucking Commissars and holy shit how
>>
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>>50370294
It's when they're painted that you can really see just how shocking the faces are.

Also
>basing the sides of a base
Ew.
>>
How would you guys handle red spess muhreen skin? Mydudes(tm) have fucked up livers, or whatever, and I was thinking that if I could pull it off, it might be cool. Problem is, I have no idea how I'd go about it. Maybe wazdakka red, with a carroburg crimson wash? Would agrax be better? Nuln? I don't know what I'm doing. I might just be retarded.
>>
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>>50370434
Huh. Agrax might be interesting; could get you sort of a red clay body paint skin.
>>
>>50360394
>>50360401
>"Wut if we put a tank. On a tank. It'd be dubble ded killy."
>>
>>50359149
Holy shit, was that actually Duncan's first model? That's awesome.
>>
>>50370526
Yep!
https://www.warhammer-community.com/2016/11/14/my-first-model-part-1-our-own-duncan-rhodes/
>>
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>>50370556
>This is the first miniature I painted, a plastic Space Marine from the Warriors of the Imperium box set. My Dad bought it for me back in 1997, the first time we went into a Games Workshop store, so seeing it brings back a lot of happy memories of us sitting at the dining room table painting and playing Warhammer 40,000. The Marine belongs to my own Chapter I created, the Void Bringers, and one day I’ll paint a new army of them.Clearly, I did not thin my paint, nor did I apply multiple thin coats! I only used four colours and a fine detail brush… I keep this miniature on top of my lamp at work to remind me that everybody starts somewhere and that simple things like using a palette are not always obvious.
Right in the feels.
>>
>>50370290
Pretty sure he was making a joke and actually agrees with you.
>>
>>50370474
Thanks, Anon. I was thinking maybe something redder, but that's giving me ideas for chapter traditions for otherdudes
>>
>>50368203
Damn those helmets are pretty spot on. I might have to make a doomguy too.
>>
>>50369044
>>50369052
>>50369070

Thanks for the replies, I'll check them all out
>>
>>50367562

Bump?

I'd rather not try and find the exact wings because they'll be like $20 easy.
>>
>>50371059
40mm base LoC or a larger forgeworld birdo?
>>
>>50371140

Old metal LoC, sorry. You know, the one who has to balance on a single. Foot that is 2 separate pieces?
>>
Anyone use Flory washes? Thoughts?
>>
>>50370591

Llllllllooooooooowwwwwwwwwwww liiiiiieeeeeeeeee the feeeeeeeeelllllllls of Athenryyyyyyyyyy
>>
Guys, I'm trying to convert a Meganob using this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5dVmA6br9E&t=337s

What do you think, what kind of thickness do I need for front plates and such? l have 1 mm and I wonder if I need thicker one, or if the thickness here matters at all.
>>
>>50359149
>>50370556
>>50370591
>>50370591
>he keeps it on top of his lamp at work to remind him to thin his paints

;_;7
>>
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Muh snipa
>>
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>>50372501
Muh psker
>>
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>>50372509
muh psyker's back
>>
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>>50372522
Muh sister
>>
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>>50372549
The squad united, just finished an inquisitor to join them . ( arbites soon to join)

I found the sister especially hard to paint cause of old sculpt being really rough.

Had a blast with the other two though, finally trying to nail down my blending skills.

Cnc welcome as usual
>>
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>>50372571
Finally muh inquisitor.

As usual sorry for shitty phone camera
>>
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Hey guys, check out my matchbox car konversion next to my models and minis runt bomm launcher. Still need to paint the skin and stuff. And yes, I know I'm not good.
>>
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>>50372593
Bonus kill team leader.
>>
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>>50372501
>>50372509
>>50372522
>>50372549
>>50372571
>>50372577

>13MB worth of pictures

>>50372593
>>50372609
>3.5MB
>3.3MB

>mfw
>>
>>50348837
anyone here use Spaceknight bits before? I've been looking around and they have the war gear that fits the look I want for a custom chapter I want to t do work on.
>>
>>50349174
Looks great as a tabletop standard, you should be proud. Like everyone else has repeated though, you really ought to look into improving the hazard stripes, if they get fixed your army would look great.
>>
>>50369168
I like it, how did you go about painting it?
>>
>>50372593
>>50372609
Bretty gud anon, but your paints a bit messy. Other than that, you might want to look at the how to take pictures thing. Remember to post updates :)
>>
Is there any kind of difference between different kinds polysterene when it comes to scratchbuilding?

I've decided to scratchbuild some stuff, but Tamiya plastic costs are FUCKING OUTRAGEOUS. I've read on the internet out that getting polysterene sheets from non-modeling company would be way cheaper. I found a company that sells High Impact Polysterene. I wonder if a line of it of 1-2 mm will bend at all.
>>
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>>50372888
What are you scratchbuilding anon? I build lots of ork vehicles and use between 0.8mm - 1mm 95% of the time. I buy it from ebay for about £10 for 5-6 A4 sheets, strips and rods are also useful
>>
>>50373020
I'm trying to scratchbuild orks. To be exact, killakan grotzooka and megaarmoured nob.

I found this neat tutorial series. Author mentions material simply as "polysterine". I checked out modeling shops and they could only offer me tamiya. Price for their sheets is so big like 1/3 of nobz price which is ultrasilly. What kind of material do you use for scratchbuilding? After a bit of google-fu I'm starting figuring out that some types of polysterine would be a bitch to bend/paint.
>>
>>50373106
Forgot the link.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kAKWgDFcXI
>>
>>50368633
I would like to know as well. my eyes are getting tired from painting
>>
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How the hell do you pronounce Sa'cea?
>>
>>50373588
Nice scheme
>>
>>50372593
>>50372609

Stop using bright ass colors straight over black and stop putting primary colors right next to each other for no reason. Thin your paints, take your time. For example, base you greens with a darker green first. Base your yellow with a dark orange or a light brown.
>>
>>50368633
>>50373541
Might as well try it out, not very expensive. Worst case it still works as an adjustable lamp. Doesn't magically improve your brush control but at least you can see better how and where you're fucking up.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fluorescent-Daylight-Flexible-Magnifying-Position/dp/B000B8JNWM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479978511&sr=8-1&keywords=daylight+magnifying+lamps
>>
>>50373588

Like ikea. Sa-kei-ah. Good choice of colors, clean execution. I like it, most tau models look like shit because people try to make them look less boxy and more cluttered.
>>
>>50373020
How much width would you use for meganob's armour?
>>
>>50372871
Dabbed the typhus corrosion on and around tracks, into recesses, smeared it down a bit with my finger. Never used the stuff before.

Mostly I did as Duncan bade me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nN1tu4pSSig

Did the sponge method for paint chipping/damage.
>>
>>50373588
Looks lovely. Now weather it up like fuck.
>>
Does anyone else really enjoy seeing models that are painted okay but still look really nice, especially if they don't use stuff like an airbrush, just simple techniques to get a result that looks good. It fills me with hope.
>>
>>50373588
hopefully saucy.
>>
How do I go about magnetizing deldar special weapons so that I can potentially swap between scourges and kabalites?
>>
>>50373679
>>50373665
>>50373618
Thank you anons

>>50373684
That's how I kept saying it, sauce-ay-ah
>>
>>50373702
>>50373684

In Latin, the C is pronounced as a K. Since everything in the universe is translated to "low gothic" because we see through the lens of the imperium, and other T'au name pronunciations, I think the C = K is plausible.
>>
>>50373734
Plausible but we still pronounce the alleged hard C otherwise in a lot of cases. Caesar, circa etc. Presumably The Imperium would have continued this trend?
>>
>>50373753

No, that's just bastardized church Latin. I'm talking Roman Empire latin, the guys who created the language. Italians are not Romans.
>>
>>50373795
I get that. But I get the impression high Gothic is derived from medieval latin not classical.
>>
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>>50373814
You know, as in actually Gothic.
>>
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>>50373814
>>50373826

What in the world makes you say that? Gothic isn't related to Latin as a language and the emperor is much older than either language.

It also appears to be a reference to a japanese alcoholic beverage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twCv2hY97C0
>>
>>50373924
It's related in the sense that Gothic architecture (not the language) and the medieval Catholic church go hand in hand.
>>
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Should I use an unexpected free day to work on my Chaos army that's almost done.

Or My sisters of battle that could use a hand or two?

On a side note, anyone got a good guide for weathering black tanks? Every other colour works like a charm with what I know but black just eat it all up. Honestly thought about repainting them white just so I can work with it.
>>
>>50373106
Plasticard is actually High Impact Polystyrene sheet, it has lots of names but they're all the same thing and will actually sell at a reasonable price.

>>50373671
Probably no thicker than .8mm, once the card gets to 1mm thick it gets very difficult to cut and bend.
>>
Covering join areas with blu-tac when priming sub-assemblies. Is there some other method eluding me?
>>
>>50374246

Masking fluid, though plastic glue will just eat right through paint anyway.
>>
>>50374228
So, High Impact Polysterine(HIPS) is basically a modelling plasticard. I had a giggle when I tried googling for "HIPS model" So many names for the same thing, that is really confusing, thanks for helping me out.

What thickness would you use for random spikes and glyphs to make them look meaty? I suddenly realised that all leftovers of plasticard can be spent on making vehicles even more orky. I'm going to assume it is 1mm at least, or it might look too flat.

Ork aesthetics slap even more spikes on it, fuck yeah.
>>
>>50374301
I find .8mm is ideal for GW scale, i have .6mm for thinner plates and 1.2 for thick plates and all are used together on the pics i have posted in this thread.

May also be worth buying some square section tubing for meganobz too, it'll be a lot easier than bending righ angles into sheet for shoulder armour and the like.
>>
>>50374677
>square section tubing
Well, I'm taking regular nobz as a base and turning them into meganobz, so I have shoulder pads. I'll consider it .

Thanks for all of the advice. By the way, forgot to say that that Battlewagon is totally rockin`.
>>
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Sup guys.
I'm now painting my 30k Alpha Legion with technique from pic related and everything seems good so far, but I'm wondering if I can paint vehicles with this.

It's runefang steel base -> layer of guilliman blue -> another layer of guilliman blue -> layer of waywatcher green -> another layer of guilliman blue -> details with runefang steel
>>
>>50374871
What makes you think it won't work for vehicles?
>>
Does anyone have a link to the Prospero citadel paint guide?
>>
>>50374881
Because glazes work worse with the flat surfaces?
>>
>>50374983

That's washes.
>>
>>50374871

Ooergh, I''d be pretty unsure about that on a vehicle, it comes out fairly splotchy on marines. Best buy an airbrush.
>>
some non-lazy cunt make a new
>>
>>50375040
So you think it'll be fine then?

>>50375058
Too bad I'm russian poorfag.
>>
>>50375134

Maybe add some drying retarder to your glaze mix just to be sure, but you should be fine. Depending on the size, for extremely large models take a look at the Forgeworld Masterclass books.
>>
>>50375146
Everything will be rhino-sized tops, no super-heavies or even landraider-sized models.
Okay, that's a relief, thank you.
>>
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>>50375101
>some non-lazy cunt make a new

>>50375758
>>50375758
>>50375758
Thread posts: 328
Thread images: 92


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