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WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Thread replies: 342
Thread images: 87

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No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Reinforcements are en route
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UID6LEzvRRo

>Previous Threads:
>>50243272
>>50230572
>>
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Show me your workstations /WIP/!
>>
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>>50270992

That's some serious organization you got there, anon!
>>
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>>50270647
Based Duncan bless this thread
>>
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Brutes ready for choppin'!
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>>50270992
Do you guys clean up your work station for pictures. Because my station is a wretch.
>>
Are there any guides out there for painting space? I want to paint my Slann wizard to look like he is made of galaxies and shit
>>
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I want to do a conversion for this creature. Anyone know of any good looking Lions I can use as a base?
>>
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Here is what I have been working on today. I like the gold trim and I do not like the silver. I am going to have to figure out how to add both in the model as they are my gun colors.
>>
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>>50271352
>>50271369
Cool concept. Follow your dreams and anything is possible.
>>
>>50271392
>>50271416
80's/10

Looks like somethings you'd see out of Heavy Metal during one of the obligatory "we know you're tripping, so zone out for 5 minutes" scenes
>>
>>50271369
Kurwa
>>
What's a good spraypaint for starting out bases?

I've been looking to follow this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbakwKMpKUw but the guy uses some UK brands that don't seem available in the USA. Any recommendations?
>>
>>50271456
Check out Army Painter. Their stuff is a little on the expensive side but they have some really good base colors that will save you a lot of time base coating.
>>
>>50271498
>>50271456
I second this if you don't mind the price tag. I use AP Daemonic Yellow spray to start my Imperial Fists' basecoat and I can never go back.

>>50271345
That seems pretty neat to me. My station is just organized because I switched from painting mode (a dozen pots strewn across my desk) to assembling mode and I need to make sure I have the right count of bolters to chests to shoulder pads, etc.
>>
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>>50270992
Shitty phone pictures ahoy!
>>
>>50271594
That station is organized because I just set it up. I had all my stuff packed away for over a year and am trying to get back into the hobby. Right now after painting a few things my station looks like shit.
>>
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Finished. C&C? Still getting the hang of skin
>>
>>50271738
looks like the wash was a little splotchy in places? Other than that not bad. They're guardsmen, nobody expects them painted to golden daemon quality.
>>
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>>50270992
Everyday I think about painting my desk.
>>
>>50271137
them's some clean weapons and armour for Orcs, anon.
>>
>>50271782
>has all these awesome old metal guardsmen
>uses the new plastic commissar

YOU HAD ONE JOB

Although that said, at least the plastic commissar has the old school vibe, what with the old school power sword.
>>
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>>50271761
Thanks the reply, I'll be honest and as silly as it sounds, every time I paint I try to get achieve golden daemon standard.
Not close, but theyre definitely painted better than my orks and daemons at least
>>50271833
I had him lying in a box, so I said why not.
>>
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>>50271430
>Looks like somethings you'd see out of Heavy Metal during one of the obligatory "we know you're tripping, so zone out for 5 minutes" scenes

Look, man, if there's one thing I know how to do, it's how to fly when I'm stoned. It's like, you know yer perspective's fucked... you just gotta let yer hands work the controls as if you were straight.
>>
>>50271850
I think that picture doesn't quite do them justice either. I bet when they're on the table they look excellent. Guardsmen look best when they're on the table in number anyways. When you've hit the level you've got, and you have a whole army, the opponent just has this look of "oh god he was crazy enough to paint that many to that standard, what the fuck is he up to?"

Also that priest looks excellent.

>>50271869
awwwww yeah
>>
>>50271594
>>50271498

I'm painting Skitarii, so I need more metallic. The tutorial I'm following recommended

Montana Gold Stealth (for basecoating the base)
Army Painter Platemail (for basecoating the model)

Looks like $16 and $17 respectively. Really more than I was hoping to spend on base paints, but I guess at least a big can like that should last for a lot of models?

I wondering if I shouldn't just get the Platemail and basecoat both parts with it to save money, even if it doesn't look as good.
>>
>>50271921
Its all relative. How long will it take you to base coat each model by hand? How much is your time worth?
>>
>>50271957
Well when you put it that way, I suppose it's worth buying the second can.

Still curious about how many models I can probably base out of a 400ml can however.
>>
>>50271357
The lions from the WHFB high elf chariot.
Foundry also has an extensive range of african animals, as does North Star.
>>
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What do you guys think? Is gold trim too excessive for the hats?

They have a line there like theyre supposed to get a detail color but I think gold looks a little too excessive. Maybe red instead?
>>
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>>50270992
>>50271106
>>50271345

BEHOLD!!!
>>
>>50272192
>is gold too excessive for a commissar?
>Imperium
>gold
>>
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>>50272233

and the construction/basing coffee-table
>>
>>50271357
Does that thing have armed arms for eyes?
Mobile atm
>>
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Paint desk battlestation
>>
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How does this Marine look fellas
Base: Lead Belcher
Layers: Gehenna's Gold and Runefang steel
Eyes @ Company Colors: Wazdakka Red
Shader: Nuln Oil
Underarmor: Eshin Grey
Power Sword Blade: Runefang Steel/Wazdakka Red Mix
Primer: Chaos Black
>I spent three hours painting him.
>>
>>50271850
Man, you've got a meme in your army. That's Golden Demon enough for me.
>>
>>50270992
>tfw I don't have a workstation

It's rough. I'm in a small apartment and mostly just build on my flimsy table. The worst part is my old paints dried out, and I have to rebuild my collection.

It's a sad kinda sad.
>>
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>>50272842
>Golden Demon?
He is from a homebrew chapter of mine called the Granite Eagles.
>>
>>50272062

Hmm I may look into the elf chariot, but it may be too small. Im looking at 32mm, really big beefy lions

>>50272281

Yes? Im surprised Poots doesnt have this as a model
>>
I'm in need of some large, cheap tank guns I can use for a Hammerhead railgun stand-in. Trying to keep the overall cost below $22 USD so I can at least justify not buying a real Hammerhead kit to myself (besides the desire to kitbash). It can be pretty scrappy; my original plan was an Earthshaker cannon and half a Basilisk shield before that turned out to be $30+. Any suggestions?
>>
>>50272821
Love the colors, but the paint looks thick. Are you thinning your paints enough?
>>
>>50272875
I didn't even mention you at any point in those two sentences.
>>
>>50273025
Didn't think when I did that.
>>
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Hey fa/tg/uys, I'm in the middle of repainting my UM's since they were my first army and they look like fried shit. My problem is do I go with Gehennas Gold (right) or Auric Armour Gold (left). Please give me some real feedback and THEN call me a bitch for liking UM's.
>>
>>50273198

Auric Armour Gold fits better here desu.

The 'classic' UM look has always had a very bright, yellow gold. Gehenna Gold is too brown.
>>
>>50273198
I'm always a fan of deeper, richer colors. I like Gehennas Gold on UMs.
>>
Ok, so. I'm going to probably be dropping a bunch of cash on GW paints this weekend to do a small painting session at my LGS, maybe get more people playing.

What GW colors are good for Silver armor and red robes? It sounds simple enough, but idk how bright the silver should be, what shade of red I should use, If I should use a gold trim for the iconography or something else, if I should trim the robes a different color, ect.

I'm bad with colors.
>>
>>50273198
>>50273291

Here's a UM I did for a friend using Gehennas Gold on the trim, for reference.
>>
>>50273324
Sounds to me like you want Leadbelcher and Khorne Red with highlights of Runefang Steel and Mephiston Red, respectively.
>>
>>50273389

Don't you have it backwards for the reds? I was under the assumption that Mephiston Red is the base colour, while Khorne Red is a layer paint.
>>
>>50272821
too much nuln oil. try to spread it thinner next time instead of letting it pool.
>>
>>50273413
Khorne Red is deeper than Mephiston, and both are base paints.
>>
>>50273413
They are both base paints. Khorne red is your deep, blood red color and Mephison red is your 255,0,0 Mcdonalds French Fry box red. I think it makes a good highlight for Khorne.
>>
>>50272821
Try doing a spot type of wash. Essentially, just target the cracks and recesses. You can actually get the same effect right now. Just go back over the model with the base colors, making sure not to get the paint into the recesses and panel lines.

Also, little tip for your gold, try Balthasar Gold as your base and work up to the bright gold. I've been doing that and makes the gold look much better as it gives it a bit of depth and a nice base color to build off of.
>>
>>50273446
Actually you know what, strike that. I think Wazdakka Red is way better than Mephiston and I'm retarded.
>>
>>50273445
>>50273446

I stand corrected. Admittedly, I haven't picked up a pot of Citadel red paint since 2008ish with the classic Blood Red & Red Gore.

Both pots are still good actually, though I bought some Vallejo reds recently to slowly phase the old paints out.
>>
>>50273362
How do you get your transfers on so nice, friend?
>>
>>50273389

Thanks, I'll give them a shot. It's for Sisters of Battle of you haven't guessed.

How do I actually highlight armor? I mean, where do I put it? There aren't really any raised bits like on the robes. Do I just pick an area like an oval?

>>50273479

Wasn't Mephiston red the old Citadel Foundation color? I used to use that for the base on my robes, then I washed them with that Baal wash before everything changed over.
>>
>>50273522
Mephiston Red is Mechrite Red in old Citadel colors.

When you're highlighting armor, just try and hit those raised surfaces that catch the light. You don't want to overdo it, less is more. Warhammer TV has some excellent tutorials on doing various highlights.
>>
>>50273559

>Mechrite

Derp. Yes, that was the one. They had a weird smell.

I'll have to check out those videos everyone keeps talking about, but I get what you're saying with the light.

What color primer should I use? Most of my stuff is currently black, but I'm empty and have a few more to prime.
>>
>>50273515
I honestly got lucky with that one. I was able to slide it on with no ridges. I do take measures to try and reduce ridges though. I don't try and cut to the shape of the transfer, I cut completely around it because I would rather make a relief cut into the clear part of the transfer than the white part in order to relieve a ridge. Second, I slide it on using an old fine detail brush, then I use light strokes to work it flat. If there's any ridges around the edges, I try to smooth them out with my thumbnail before making any sort of relief cuts on them. Then I apply a light mixture of about 4 parts water and 1 part white glue to seal it on.
>>
>>50273614
Thank you!
>>
>>50273609
I use Rustoleum Dark Grey auto primer. I like the matte color of it and paint sticks to it like shit to a blanket, but it all depends on what you want to do. If you want to make your armor look worn, prime it dark. If you want it to look parade ready, prime it a light color. Either way you can't go wrong with Rustoleum auto primer.
>>
>>50273625
No problem. I hope that wasn't too rambly.
>>
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Goddamn Custodes take ages to paint.

Its taken almost 3 hours and I haven't even finished the basecoats, let alone cleaned them up.
>>
>>50273687
Damn fine work though so far. What do you think of the BoP box so far? Worth picking up?
>>
>>50273673

>auto primer

Maaannn. I have trauma from my first time priming. I used rustoleum and my shit came out fuzzy. Ever since then, I've only used GW out of fear for my models. One time I used Army Painter, which was nice.

Anyway, I'll probably go with far for the battle worn look.
>>
>>50273739

>Fuzzy

Huh. That's strange. I've never had that issue. Maybe a humidity issue in the area where you were drying it? The only issues I ever had was actually with GW stuff. I was recently painting something a guy primed with Chaos Black spray and getting paint to stick to that was a nightmare.
>>
>>50273778

Now that you mention, I've been having trouble with paint sticking to my Horrors. I thought it was the shitty paint I was using, but it dries fine on my equally shitty pallet. I thought maybe I watered it down too much, which is also why I was going to finally build a wet pallet.

Maybe I'll give the Rusto a shot again.
>>
>>50273730
Its not as good as the BaC to be honest. I think its the lack of vehicle, and generic characters. However the quality is superb.

However there are a few small things that pissed me off. I feel like making the backpack 2 pieces, and the legs 2 pieces is really annoying. Its like 9 pieces to make each bolter marine now. Plus I feel like the Mk3 marines needed a 2nd heavy weapon, as theres no missile launcher like in BaC.

What they really should have done is make an extra sprue with 10 breacher shields, 10 bolt pistols, and 10 chainswords. That way 30k players could have made breachers, non-jumppack assault squads etc.

They already have 10 chainswords in there but they're weird holstered ones.
>>
>>50273823
>spray paint
>give it a shot

Oh you.
>>
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It has taken me longer than I wanted and I need to go back and touch up a few spots, but I hope my DVark Angels and their Inquisitor friend are at least tabletop acceptable.
>>
>>50273976

Not my intention, honestly.
>>
>>50273995
FUUUUUCK mate those are crisp as hell. Well done.
>>
>>50273995
>mold line on plasma gunner's head
>bare spot on plasma gunner's shoe where the paint rubbed off from handling
>inquisitor's face looks awful
>didn't highlight the bones in the chaplain's armor
>sloppy highlights on chaplain in general
>gold probably needed one more edge highlight because four different metallic paints and a wash being involved it looks flat
>got superglue all over my fingers during final assembly
>>
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duncans first mini :')
>>
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Working on a succubus and a pilot after stripping 1100$ of dark eldar.

About 900$ worth was salavagable post dip.

Not bad for 200$.
Not bad for
>>
>>50273995
Those need a shade in the worst way but otherwise they're great.
>>
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Also working on some Dark Angels. Idk what to do for the bases other than flat black
>>
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>>50270647
Im about to get an orruk megaboss and I want to give him an armored head. Anyone with experience know if black ork heads would work? Or maybe that black ork banner top that has the huge spikes?
>>
>>50274142
I honestly don't know what to say. I slathered on so much biel-tan green right after the base coat.

Maybe I am doing something wrong? GW shades seem really subtle once they dry, or do I just need to do two coats of shade?
>>
>>50274147
agrellan earth is actually pretty nice.

by itself it is bland, but give it a wash and a drybrush and it looks a ton better.
>>
>>50274147
Crushed crafting moss works great, dont thin your glue though.
>>
>>50274174
Maybe it's just the lighting? I'm looking at it more closely now and I can make out the shading better but from a distance they look a bit flat. They're definitely tabletop ready and look great though.
>>
>>50274184
>>50274187
Thanks ill look into those
>>
>>50274105
Something that was hard for me to get over was figuring out when a model is done and you'll always be your own worst critic. There will always be flaws that only you can see and if you were to try and fix them all, you would be working forever. Are they gonna win a Golden Daemon? No, but that doesn't matter. What matters is that they look good from 3 feet away on the table amongst both your army and your opponent's. You did well.
>>
>>50274111

Thought for the day:
“Thin your paints.”
>>
>>50271793
those look like orruks from AOS
>>
>>50274162
Black Ork heads are roughly the same size, maybe just a little bit smaller.
I think the banner head would be cool though.
>>
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>>50274317
Thanks anon

Is the banner top head a good size? it really is my first choice if it will fit on the orruk boss.

Pic related.
>>
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>>50272192
>gold
>excessive

There is no such a thing in the imperium young grasshopper
>>
>>50274342
it's a bit big. I'll post tomorrow with a size comparison
>>
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>>50274342
It's slightly larger than the usual head, but would look pretty cool without the jaw.
Sorry for the lame picture
>>
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Zoanthropes I recently finished. Bases and Neurothrope will be coming soon, hopefully!
>>
>>50274111
He should make a Warhammer TV video where he paints the same scheme with all of his experience for comparison.
>>
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>>50274431
How do you get that cloudy effect with the purple?
>>
>>50274421
Nice I think thats what ill go with, thanks.
>>
>>50274475
Semen
>>
>>50274491
Hilarious

>>50274475
I used an extra thin coat of Genestealer purple on an undercoat of Xereus purple, which has an undercoat of Naggaroth Night.
>>
>>50274475
>>50274508

Oh and be sure to do a gradient of colors. Think of the Naggaroth as an exaggerated edge highlight, then the Xereus gets closer to the edge, then the Genestealer purple is a normal edge highlight.
>>
I just bought some medium. What do I actually do with it?
>>
>>50274578
make paints more transparent for subtle blending without an airbrush of dark sorcery

or use it as a matte varnish
>>
>>50274588

So, it's not a way to thin paints? It doesn't matter much because I'm also building a wet palette for that.

I'll have to experiment blending shit with it, then.

How is it as a varnish?
>>
>>50274625
>thin paints
That's what he means by more transparent. It lets you thin more heavily than you can with water.
>>
>>50274646

Aaahhh ok. Got it.
>>
>>50274646
>>50274654
it is a different kind of thinning. It thins the color more than the consistency, though it is thinner than normal paint.

Using too much water makes the paint run everywhere. Using too much medium makes the paint have a really weak color, but it will stay where you put it.
>>
What size of magnets should I get for my Skitarii?

1/16" x 1/32"?

And where do you buy your magnets?
>>
>>50274681

Isn't here a happy middle between the two?
>>
>>50274722
don't overthin paint
>>
>>50274736

I suppose that's fair, but where's the line?
>>
>>50274742
A dab will do ya.
>>
>>50274742
use a palette and get a feel for it. It can vary a lot depending on how dry your paint is and how much water your brush picks up.

Also do yourself a favor and clean your brush really thoroughly before sticking it in the medium or you will contaminate the medium.
>>
>>50274779

Alright. I'll just gave to fuck with it then.

This is a tube, so probably no contamination regardless.
>>
>>50271833
i think there used to be a metal version of this commissar
>>
>>50272928
for beefed up lion there is the chaos lord on manticore, or the chimera, plus you'll have the base body for your monster
>>
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>All these organized workstations
>>
>>50271137

I like them, but as your armor is weathered it indicates these brutes have seen combat, but yet there is no blood on the weapons as another anon has pointed out already.

Other than this small (but crucial) detail, they look great anon!
>>
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This metroid is perfectly sized for minis as a giant alien

Painted it the other day
>>
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>>50274933
>>
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>>50274916

> implying this is organized
>>
>>50274982
Guys im not Australian I swear
>>
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>>50274982
>>50274993
Quick Beat him while he's upside down!
>>
>>50274982
GET THE BOOT
>>
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WIP warlord, thinking about making his banner red as well. Anyone got ideas to make the mini 'pop'? Tried to do something different with the sword but not sure if it turned out totally great.

> Face still needs hightlight
> Green and Cream robe still need more highlights
>>
>>50274696
Home depot has those for 10.95 for a pack of 200.

1/16 is perfect for infantry.
>>
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Brush on Vallejo surface primer and Caribana base coat for my salamanders
>>
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Why is he so perfect?
>>
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Workin' on a Heldrake
>>
>>50274940
h-hot
>>
>>50275325
But anon, how are you going to paint its anus?
>>
How do I base my models without getting any on their feet?
Do I paint the base in the same color as the texture paint and leave the area around their feet flat?
>>
>>50275435
very carefully

or paint the base and model separately, attaching the two after painting
>>
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>>50275402
>>
>>50271106
That fucking moldline remover never fails to trigger me
>>
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>>50275435
could always make the base out of cork
>>
>>50275460
I've heard from so many sources that it is actually a really great tool for removing mold lines, but that everyone who says that didn't think so until they used it

I feel like I am being memed, but also kind of tempted to spend the 17 bucks because at this point, I just want to know.
>>
>>50275435
If you use texture paint it wouldn't hurt if the mini has little bits on its feet.. boots get dirty when walking through mud.
>>
>>50275445
Wouldn't paint on paint make the glue bond really weak?
>>
>>50275507
Correct. You can use pins though.
>>
>>50275507
maybe, but you can drill holes in the feet and pin to reinforce if you want.

If you are using plastic bases, you could also plan ahead and mask the areas where the feet will be, and mask the feet, so you can have a plastic on plastic bond.
>>
Anyone have any tips for an obsidian effect? I want to do a sort of black glass effect on my custode's spears, with a small rim of blue power effect, but not sure the best way to get a really glossy shiny black. Abaddon black and imperial primer both have far too dull a finish.
>>
>>50275476
I've got one and am really happy with it. Although a scalpel will probably do a similar job and has other uses too.
>>
>>50275694
have you tried just putting a gloss varnish on it?
>>
Can you guys help a german through getting started with magnetizing?

Where do I best order/buy magnets from? Are there any non-UK stores online? What kind of drills should I use? Looked through the OP links, but I'd still prefer some personal help if anyone can lend an ear.
>>
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Another deathwatch marine, tried the white dwarf masterclass technique on the face
>>
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>>50275898
>>
>>50275305
Thin your paints, watch Duncan videos, he gives you awesome insight
>>
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Anyone here have any experience with Reaper's paints? They seem kinda thin and watery...
>>
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Sister of silence. Got 19 more after this one. How's it coming along?
>>
>>50275904
>>50275898

Looks very grimdark. Well done!
>>
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>>50276018
Backside. Sorry about sideways image.
>>
>>50275898
I like the face, though not a fan of the blue shade on the shoulder's silver.
>>
>>50276018
>>50276025
Image quality could be better and the armor looks like it could really use some more highlighting/shading, but the cloak looks nice and the base of the armor as well.
>>
>>50276088
Thanks for the input. Crappy phone camera...
>>
Got a bunch of tanks I need painting.

Is it possible to use the hairspray technique without using an airbrush?

http://spikeybits.com/2016/03/no-airbrush-no-problem-3-cheap-tricks-for-your-army.html says so but I'never seen it done.
>>
>>50276275
Probably not, as you'd want the paint layer going over the hairspray to be thin enough to rub off once you get it wet.
>>
>>50276427
Yeah that's what I was fearing.

Crap.
>>
>>50276427
actully, a thin primer spray might do it, if you are after one of the standard colours.
>>
>>50271738
Lovely color scheme!
>>
>want to get into the hobby again for the first time since I was a kid
>always loved Tyranids
>looking at a mainly Genestealer Cult army, because guerilla warfare and mobility trolling is my jam

>Tyranids look like they would be one of the hardest armies to paint
>I would also have to magnetize the bigger creatures/GSC vehicles

h-h-help
>>
>>50271850
>>50271782
Your army looks really lovely! You're doing a great job!
>>
>>50275904
I can see why some might not like it, but the job you did gives it a far bit of character and style.
>>
alright just started assembling my space wolf pack and are there sieriously no flamers and enough weapons to make a full 10 grey hunters/ bloodclaws ?
sure i have to buy anothe box if i want to have a full 15 man bloodclaw squad but still
>>
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>>50271345
>Do you guys clean up your work station for pictures.
Nope
>>
I keep getting eyes off. Any tips on painting eyes?
>>
>>50276576
>>Tyranids look like they would be one of the hardest armies to paint

Its actually the opposite.
>>
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Finished these guys a couple of week ago and halfway through the second squad i'm feeling pretty unhappy with the colour scheme. I think it's mainly the harsh contrast between the bright coats and dark armour.
Anyone got suggestions as to how i can make it look nicer?
>>
>>50275305
>Warriors of the Imperium boxed set.

I honestly don't know how many equivalents of that set I have in my army or in the bitz cabinet. The plastic legs also fit the old 2nd Edition biker torsos perfectly, so you can add some personality and special weapons to a squad if you have the metal bike squad bitz.

Citadel also produced a metal version in blisters for a short period of time.

>>50275460
>That fucking moldline remover never fails to trigger me

Johnny is standing up there on the paint rack, and *that's* what you notice? Let it go, my friend.

>>50275476
>I've heard from so many sources that it is actually a really great tool for removing mold lines, but that everyone who says that didn't think so until they used it

I might have been one of the sources you heard that from. I felt the same way.

>I feel like I am being memed, but also kind of tempted to spend the 17 bucks because at this point, I just want to know.

It'd be playing with fire, but you could always walk into the nearest GW and weasel the lad(z) working there to demonstrate it for you. Sure, they're trying to sell you on it, but if it makes getting the mold lines off your models less like the 13th Labour of Hercules, it might be worth it.
>>
>>50275476
I've got one and it does work well.

However, sometimes you need a blade to cut away a slightly bigger chunk and having a single tool that's both blade and scraper is much more convenient.
>>
>>50276815
> Let it go, my friend.

Johnny is just a silly looking piece of nostalgia. I can accept him.

That "tool" on the other hand is the epitome of whats wrong in this hobby. Blindly buying whatever GW is releasing without ever thinking about it. This can only be topped by Citadel branded "Emperors tears" tap water to clean the brushes for only $10 per 0,5liter.
>>
>>50276846
People blindly self assured in their knowledge of things they have no experience of is a bigger problem.
>>
>>50276846
>Citadel branded "Emperors tears" tap water
I'm sure this will happen eventually.
>>
>>50276866
Its a dull piece of metal to scrape off mold lines. does it come with some kind of integrated laser to smoothen the plastic afterwards or why would it behave different to any other, similar shaped piece of metal?

Yes, that handle made from wood probably feels nice in the hand.. nice enough to justify its price? I don't think so. That thing has a material cost of $2 at max.

But yeah, keep telling you how awesome that thing is after you wasted $17,50 for it.

>>50276891
If it happens, people will claim that there are special and secret ingredients which make cleaning brushes soooo much better and easier than it is with normal water.
>>
>>50275476
>>50276815
>>50276837

I just use a paper knife to remove the mold lines after trying (and hating) the standard xacto blades, I never tried any of these fancy mold lines removers. Am I missing out?
>>
>>50276906
>wood handle
So you've never even touched one but you know everything about it?

Since it is both stiffer and harder than an exacto blade it does leave smoother surfaces. Of course, if you'd ever actually seen one you'd know that it's much thicker than a knife blade.
>>
>>50276906
>If it happens, people will claim that there are special and secret ingredients which make cleaning brushes soooo much better and easier than it is with normal water.
So you've never used masters brush cleaner either?
>>
>>50276968
So its not even wood?

>Of course, if you'd ever actually seen one you'd know that it's much thicker than a knife blade.

And how is this different from a piece of metal in that shape which you can get for $2?

Happy shilling Anon
>>
Weather's good, It's time to undercoat my models, first time doing it. Any tips? Anything I should know?

So far I have "30cm distance" and "short bursts" in mind. Please god, let them turn out ok and not like the THIN YOUR PAINTS horror pictures.
>>
>>50276984
>And how is this different from a piece of metal in that shape which you can get for $2?
And where exactly do you obtain a piece of hardened steel in that shape for $2?

Grips are aluminium, btw.
>>
>>50276995
>Any tips?
I usually put my models on an old shoe box and turn around it with the can instead of holding it with my hand. That way I don't get spray dust all over my arms.
>>
>>50273995
Why do people try to use sigmarines as marines, they may have similar type of miniature (big guy in hulky armour) but they have totally different aesthetic and look awfull in marine armies.
Paint job is on point though.
>>
>>50276997
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/3pcs-Stainless-Steel-Wax-Clay-Sculpting-Tool-Set-Carving-Pottery-Making-Tool-Free-Shipping/32676664746.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_116_10065_117_10068_114_115_113_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10060_10061_10062_10056_10055_10037_10054_10059_10032_10078_10079_10077_10073_10070_423_10052_10050_10051,searchweb201603_8&btsid=0d16e1aa-3980-42e1-83ac-c71c3f46a6a7
>>
>>50277011
Get a 1x2, put a strip of double sided tape on it and stick your minis to that.

Makes it way easier to get into the recesses.

If you arrange them on a flat surface you'll find that all of the lower surfaces (underneath arms and weapons, between legs, etc.) doesn't get sprayed.
>>
>>50277018
> totally different aesthetic and look awfull in marine armies.

Thats like.. your opinion m8.
But i agree in the case of the related post. He should have replaced the helmet/mask with a 40k head.

Marines and Inquisitors have access to an item thats called Artificer armor which can look however you want so everything is fine.
>>
>>50276995
Get a big box or something to put your minis on.
That way you don't have to hold each one in your hand while spraying and you don't have to touch them because you can just turn the box around instead of the mini to spray the backside.

Make sure you aim your can next to the mini when you start the spray burst, then move your arm left and right so the paint goes onto the mini. Stop spraying next to a mini, aimed at the box, not aimed at a mini.
Do this 2-3 times to get a smooth and thin coat.
>>
>>50277021
Are you retarded?

How is a rounded shape going scrape mouldines? Also, sculpting tools for clay aren't hardened so they wouldn't work anyway.

Let me guess, you don't actually have those tools either?
>>
>>50277054
>i need hardened steel to scrape plastic

I wonder who is the retard here. Just a little tipp.. you can actually use your fucking finger nail to do it.. its just that the finger is to thick to reach into most of the more hidden parts of a mini.

Just because GW says Marine armor is made from ceramite won't make the minis some kind of super hard. Its fucking plastic.

Sculpting tools come in all kinds of sizes and shapes btw. Many can be used to scrape of plastic mold lines.
>>
So... how do I remove mold lines?
>>
>>50277098
Scrape them off with a knife.

People say us the back blunt side.

I use the blade to scrape along adjacent to it. This means you don't accidentally slice into it with the blade.
>>
>>50277077
The ones you linked can't, a rounded edge is useless for mouldines.

The problem with soft sculpting tools is that they bend too easily.

I've got a whole bunch of sculpting tools and none of them are any good for mouldine removal.

Why don't you just admit that you've been talking out of your ass?
>>
>>50277098
Buy the official citadel mold line remover of course. There is no better way to do it.
>>
>>50277117
>Why don't you just admit that you've been talking out of your ass?

Because its clearly you talking out of your ass because your just butthurt that you spend almost $20 for a silly little tool.
>>
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Also posted it in the aosg. Basically finished. They will get shields next summer I guess. Right now I'm focusing on getting 40 of them done.
Also has anyone ever used the army painter color primer? I bought a can of necrotic flesh for zombies. Anything I need to know? I'll post a picture of them once I primed a bunch.
Also, what is the minimum temperature for primers to work properly?
>>
>>50277132
>the tools I've never used are just as good as the other tool that I've never used.

Thanks for sharing your experience there anon.
>>
>>50275972
THICKEN YOUR PAINTS
>>
>>50276275
You can just use aerosol spray cans if you find a couple colors you like. When it comes to detail work, clean up, etc, you might have to decant them to color match.
>>
>>50277132
>butthurt
>almost $20
Poorfag detected.
>>
>>50277154
I would not use spray primer if the air temperature is below 10°C... make sure the spray can and minis are stored at room temperature beforehand...

the distance from spraycan to mini is shorter for army painter sprays compared to GW, maybe try just above 20cm...
>>
>>50276788
They look alright.
They are missing a spot color though. Something that spices them up a little.
They are very drab looking. Maybe paint the aquila on the helmet a bright color?

Other than that if you are not happy with the color on the coats just us a different shade of blue. Or wash this one with a royal blue on one guy and see what happens. You could also paint the details on the coat like on old prussian uniforms. Golden buttons, red lapels and cuffs for example.

I mean what exactly makes you unhappy about them when you look at them? What did you expect to see and what is missing if you compare it to your idea?
>>
>>50277026
>>50277053

It is done.
I didn't have tape so I wore latex gloves, then held them with one hand and sprayed with the other. Managed to get some on my fucking arm. Hopefully, it went everywhere on the models, I checked. I'm fucking scared that I put too much and fucked the details actually but it's hard to tell with the shiny paint, have to wait for it to dry. Hoping I didn't.

If I ever do this again (I won't) I'll have to remember to wear a mask because I don't particularly enjoy cancer and also wear a DESIGNATED painting shirt.

>this fucking hobby
>>
>tfw you use a knockoff X-acto blade for your moldlines
>half the time you dig a little deep and take a small chunk of the model as well
>>
>>50277407
>held them with one hand and sprayed with the other
>Managed to get some on my fucking arm
I warned you about your arm, I told you dog
>>
>>50277412
>>tfw you use a knockoff X-acto blade for your moldlines
>>half the time you dig a little deep and take a small chunk of the model as well

That's also why I stopped using the real xacto blades and moved to using a good paper cutter.
>>
>>50277412
>>50277493

>cutting off mouldlines

You scrape. Scrape.
>>
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>>50277098
>So... how do I remove mold lines?

Wow... maybe I started something I didn't intend to, but... I guess I gotta remember where I am.

You need something hard with a bit of an edge on it to drag along the surface of the model. While it may be fightin' words to some (>>50276846), I own a Citadel mold line remover, and it does a better job of this than anything else I've tried.

Micro-Mark makes a similar tool called a "seam scraper" (pic related). These guys are mostly model railroad and historical enthusiasts, but they are our brothers in spirit. Their marketing ladz are brothers in spirit to Citadel, though, so even if you catch their tool on sale for $10, the shipping's gonna kill the deal... better buy some 1-to-1 for mold making to make the shipping worth it!

You should already have a good hobby knife; most people just use the back (blunt) edge of the knife the same way I use the mold line remover: scrape it along the surface and take that mold line off.
>>
>>50277485

I'll be honest, it was mainly me being retarded.

>wearing latex gloves on both hands, so can't really feel where the cap is facing
>don't spray in the air for a sec to see where it's going
>try to spray the mini directly
>the inevitable happens

Oh well, it wasn't much anyway. Removed it with some acetone and soap.
>>
>>50277522
Yes, but with a (shit) xacto blade, scraping creates a weird texture, and you have to scrape again to make it cleaner... the more you do that, the more you dig in your mini.
Anyway, these days are over, I'm never using anything other than my trusty paper cutters and my good blades.
>>
>>50277493
>>50277412
Use the back side of the blade, ya dingus! All you need to scrape moldlines is a good sharp corner.

On a rare occasion you could make use of a set of small files. I use zapagap on the outside of seams then file it away to get rid of the seam entirely.
>>
>>50277407
>I'll have to remember to wear a mask because I don't particularly enjoy cancer and also wear a DESIGNATED painting shirt.

That shouldn't be necessary if you do it outside.. if its windy, position yourself in way that the wind comes from behind.
>>
I've got a box of static grass that I bought 10 years ago and never really used up. I'm back in the hobby now and I tried using some but it didn't go as planned as it doesn't stand up once glued to my painted (test) bases and it looks like shit. Do you you guys know a way to make my static grass great again?
>>
>>50277631
google "static gras applicator"
>>
>>50277629

I was outside and there was just a little bit of wind and I could see the spray fumes rising. Pretty sure I inhaled some.

I don't want to die anon.
>>
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Third attempt at I.F - Just about hitting the yellow I want, eye lenses a bit derpy but is a test model so who cares.

Any thoughts?
>>
>>50277662
Embrace the fumes. It's all part of the hobby.
>>
>>50277662
Did you use super cancer mega aids spray?
If not then you'll be fine.
>>
>>50277673
Looks good, but shouldnt there be red along the shoulders instead of the metallic silver?
>>
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>>50277662
The spray fumes rises
>>
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>>50277673
>Any thoughts?

Very sexy. Is that Burning of Prospero or Forge World?
>>
>>50277673

A tad lemonish.
>>
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Finished the kraut, rate the final version guys. He's going on a diorama later, so the boots and pants are yet to be dirted.
>>
Complaining guy here, just wondering, I got a set of stormcast eternals, so 11 minis and it took 3 days, 2-3 hour session each to build them.

Is that how long it takes in general or was it just me being so slow and shit?
>>
>>50272192

Not excessive, just needs to be washed down and highlighted properly.
>>
>>50277866
>Is that how long it takes in general or was it just me being so slow and shit?
You're just slow and shit.
>>
>>50277761
Dorn likes citrus.

>>50277692
Heresy-era - FW books actually had the trim as a kind of metallic black, but I'm finding that difficult to nail.

>>50277699
Thanks :) It's Prospero. Pretty good kit, though not enough pouches/grenades/chainblade bayonets imho.
>>
>>50277407
Remember to take your watch off unless it's a piece of shit.

Also, if you're going to get a mask you need to get a good one specifically for spray painting and pay attention to its lifespan (usually only a few months from when you unseal it) otherwise it's just a placebo. (it's the solvents that are dangerous - much more so than the paint particles)
>>
>>50277866
Maybe a bit slow, but I tend to take my time as well. Better to get it right the first time, and make sure everything is free of moldlines and ugly gaps.
>>
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Was hoping the GoreGunta's heads were way bigger than a regular orks but trying to find a work around than the last one
The blu tac would be greenstuff for his neck but does this fit better or is it too small?
>>
>>50276906
>Its a dull piece of metal to scrape off mold lines. does it come with some kind of integrated laser to smoothen the plastic afterwards or why would it behave different to any other, similar shaped piece of metal?
>Yes, that handle made from wood probably feels nice in the hand.. nice enough to justify its price? I don't think so. That thing has a material cost of $2 at max.
>But yeah, keep telling you how awesome that thing is after you wasted $17,50 for it.

I got mine for free from a friend. He gave me one of his that he thought he had lost, and already replaced, so I'm perfectly happy with it. It does what I need it to do, and I didn't pay a cent.
>>
is the "how to paint white armor" image guide that uses the space marine in the OP or can someone please repost it here?
>>
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>>50278065
>is the "how to paint white armor" image guide that uses the space marine in the OP or can someone please repost it here?

It's just an image that floats in here from time to time, although the part with the Sanguinary Priest is just a screengrab from an electronic version of the Blood Angels painting guide Sons of Sanguinius - which *is* in the OP.
>>
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>>50278017
Or this? With another ironjaw
>>
>>50275972
I personally don't use them as my LGS doesn't carry them, however they are pretty nifty as they separate paints into triads or a base, highlight and shadow. This make it pretty fool proof.
>>
>>50275402
stirland mud and ardcoat poaring out from an EC heldrake's ass.
>>
>>50277673
use stormhost silver+bloodletter intead of white for the eyes.
>>
>>50277933
>Heresy-era - FW books actually had the trim as a kind of metallic black, but I'm finding that difficult to nail.
why not try giving them black rims, but then using a metal color to line-hightlight them and chip them as well?
>>
>>50278136
>>50278017
both are nice, but will require some work to make the read as an Ork, as they are currently empty skulls. Will you add eyes, or a pair of sunglasses or something, for instance?
>>
>>50275972
The only Reaper paints I have, and as such use only occasionally, are a couple of Reapers Skin Tone triads, which in my opinion are quite nice, and do not seem watery at all.
They're not thick either mind you, but they do require a little bit of thinning.
>>
>>50278346
what if he used a thin layer of liquid greenstuff? as flesh?
>>
>>50278475
Doesn't work. I tried it with a skeleton once for a laugh, seeing if I could make a zombie out of it. It shrinks far too much and dries pretty rough. I ended up with rough blobby bits on the long bones and all of the gaps stayed pretty much the same. Convinced me to never use liquid greenstuff for filling gaps and instead use it to add texture to stuff like cloaks and dirty skin.
>>
Are there any hints on the Black Friday deals yet?
>>
Does anyone know a good brand of digital camera for taking HQ showcase pictures without a lot of additional faff? I'm sick of using my shitty phone camera after putting in so much effort on painting.
>>
>>50277673
MkIII armor gets me so hard.
>>
>>50278346
I'm gonna add one eyeball and some scarring to the other eye socket
>>
>>50278656
I use a Fujifilm Finepix F800EXR (older model, the newer one is the F850 EXR I think), which primarily has a really solid lens, decent resolution (16MP) and good optical zoom. But it's the EXR function that I love most.
It's like most camera's auto-setting, but unlike most this one actually seems to work as advertised.
It does just about all the thinking for you when taking pictures.

Not that this camera is perfect, it's overly sensitive to low-light conditions, in that the EXR completely overkills it on the shutter time and such, making it really tricky to do point-and-shoot stuff in the night.
>>
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>>50278335
Quickly re-done the left pouldron - I actually really like this. I'll do another test tomorrow with all the armour trim as per this. Cheers buddy
>>
>>50278697
gonna make it one, large and goofy eye, or one with more kunning-ness to it?

>>50278891
happy to help! keep us posted!
>>
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Painted the middle guy up to be a Chaplain.
Tried doing the faux glossy black armor look that paintingbuddha did on their Horus model tutorial series.
Not my best work by any means, but good enough for tabletop.
>>
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>>50278953
Also I put a decal on the cap because yolo
>>
>>50278953
>>50278995
good shit!
>>
>>50278995
Is the cape still in progress? It could benefit from you sharpening up the shadows and cleaning that fist sigil.

Also, did you highlight the gold? I feel like you did, and maybe it's just not shown up in the picture.

Fucking tippity-top job on the armor. That yellow is sun-bright and smooth as hell, and the reflections on the black is eye catching. I especially like the skull-paint on the chaplain's helmet.
>>
Hey guys, i've run out of videos to watch on Warhammer TV, Apathatic Fish and Dr. Faust.

I love to watch painting vids while doing hobby stuff.. so please recommend me your favorite youtube channels with /tg/-related content.
>>
>>50278953
>good enough for tabletop

You paint better then most posters on /tg/. Feel some pride.
>>
>>50279184
Next Level Painting has some good tips if you can stand the memes.

Buypainted is dead now, but he's still a great repository of airbrush techniques, even if they can get a little over complex.

Incidentally, how is Apathetic Fish? He's the only one of these channels I haven't checked out.
>>
>>50279244
>how is Apathetic Fish?

He has a bit of an accent but besides that he is pretty normal and isn't painting too good. Easy to follow his steps for mediocre painters like myself.

I'll check out Next Level and Buypainted.
>>
>>50279083
Cape is done. I know it's streaky compared to the airbrushed look of the other marines, but I've never been able to get good contrast on capes with an airbrush. I glazed over the decal in the shadowy area. I should have glazed over it in the brighter places but I was worried I was gonna mess it up.
I did highlight the gold. Maybe I'll edge highlight it with chrome or something later on.
thx for feedback
>>50279042
>>50279218
ty
>>50279184
paintingbuddha, orcpainternerd, and buypainted are my personal favorites, altho paintingbuddha is more for display painting, not for army painting.
Also, if u paint vehicles/tanks, check out Adam Wilder's channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgE28djX8AusG1xCh8cvddg
>>
>>50279500
Thanks. Now i should have videos for the next couple of month.

>>50279244
>if you can stand the memes.

I just watched a random video from that channel.
What the actual fuck. Painting is nice though
>>
>>50277806
>Ja, draw me like one of your French girls
>>
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>>50279614
He's like the Guy Fieri or Jack Black of miniature painting.
>>
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I've got a couple plastic figures I'd like to repaint, one a Wizards D&D prepainted thing and the other a charming abomination I got from my FLGS bits box. Should I just prime over them, or is there a good way to strip without damaging the plastic further?
>>
>>50279614
>watches a video from him
>he's fucking vaping
>ancient chinese technique
he's frustrating to listen to sometimes, but he also makes me laugh.
>>
Can you guys help me out with some colour scheme ideas? I want to an Age of Sigmar Vampire army. I wanted to do the 'fur' on the vampires and horses a pale colour but I've never painted fur before so I have no clue how to do it.

I wanted to use purple in them but I'm not sure how it will look on the armour and I'm in a toss up between purple armour or metallic bronze/gold armour.

Thanks for any help
>>
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>>
>>50280041
i guess i can get used to him.. still, seeing such a guy doing painting feels kinda weird.
>>
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>>50280062
>I've never painted fur before so I have no clue how to do it.

google "drybrushing", or check youtube for some tutorials. Its super easy.

> purple armour

If you basecoat your armor with a metal color and then use a purple glaze it might turn out good or great even. (kinda like the alpha legion mini in my pic, just with purple ofc).
>>
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>>50270647
How do I paint olive skin ?
>>
>>50280181
Vallejo Game extra oppaque 72.140 Heavy Skintone followed by a sepia wash and then some slight re-highlights.
>>
>>50280079
Where the hell is this from?

>>50280062
You could do a matte purple armor with bronze/gold from for maximum pimp.

Fur is pretty easy to do, whether you're doing light or dark colors. For an example of a wolf-like color, basecoat with medium grey, then apply a layer of dark grey closer to the middle, then apply a shade of whatever color you want to tint it (brown, sepia, black), then drybrush over the fur with a very light grey to tie it all together.

If you did your vampires with purple armor with gold trim, and light beige fur, they could look very regal/pimping.
>>
>>50280228
>>50280157
Cheers lads, this is exactly what I was after.
>>
Do you guys listen to music while painting?

I avoided it for a long time, thinking it would break my concentration, but while I tried it I found that it actually kinda helps me achieving better results. Or at least it doesn't make them worse, while making the painting much more enjoyable.

So, do you guys listen to something during work? Any particular genres of music? Any recommendations?
>>
>>50279936
I've never been able to strip the D&D minis successfully; the wash will come off like normal acrylics, but the basecoats are some sort of baked on action figure paint, doesn't come off. Simple green will be safe for both, but the D&D will have to just prime afterward.
>>
>Cleaned out all the parts for my pathfinders and cleaned them up
>Unsure if I should fully assemble or partially

They will have a grimy-ish paintjob (camo + washes) and they ARE rank'n'file (Fire Warriors are fully assembled and they'll need a cleaner paintjob, go figure) but for some reason it feels "wrong" to fully assemble.

Advise me. I very rarely partially assemble in general, but I've regretted not doing it before on larger, special models.
>>
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Could someone give me the paint colours needed for the Martyred Lady's Order Militant scheme?
>>
>>50280589
PLANNED out all the parts*
>>
>>50280471
see >>50279184

I usually watch painting videos while painting. Sometimes if someone interesting is streaming, i watch people painting on twitch.

A while ago i used to listen to black library audiobooks (horus heresy stuff etc) but i listened to almost everything and i wanted some change.
>>
>>50280471
Always calms me down https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yergWdn968o

Also, if that's your Noise Marines, thin ya fackin paints m8.
>>
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I'm not sure what he is, but I know he is Nurgle-aligned.
>>
>>50280634
Nah, just some random image from google. I do paint chaos, but I haven't done any noise marines yet, so I couldn't post anything mine that would fit the question. Would like to try painting some, since they're one of my favourite 40k units, but since I'm a student I don't really feel comfortable with buying a whole set of pink paints for one squad only yet.
>>
>>50280675
Cultist champion?
>>
>>50280675
Got any sort of dark mechanicum going on in your army?
>>
>>50280828
maybe

>>50280946
not quite, I just run CSM of nurgle, and a GS cult on the side.
>>
>>50280946
Not that guy, but I am looking to build some dark mechanicus to go with my conversions for a R&H army, got any links or pics of some decent Dark mech. Google doesn't yield much quality
>>
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Shaltari gharial from Dropzone commander. Such a sexy model. Literally painted this with a sleeping baby on my lap. Can't wait till its done :)
>>
I'm making figures based on friends' charcters, but my bitsbox is a bit limited in that regard.

What are some kits that have womanly arms for 28mm? I have some deldar stuff, but they're both a bit too long(since eldar are amazonian) and I mostly need at least bare shoulder. I can hack and patch with greenstuff pretty well, but can't all too well overshave an armored shoulder and resculpt that well.

Hands I'm not worried about since I have those ready.

In addition, would like to know if there any preteen/teen sized minis I can use for 28mm.
>>
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So i just started painting my genestealer not entirely convinced on his Carapace armor thingy, any tips especially on genestealer painting?
>>
I gave my Scriptor a Bullgryn shield and a Furioso Force Hellbard. The shield is supposed to be a stormshield and the hellbard is supposed to be a staff, what do you think of my model ? I am out of green stuff, or else i would have used some to make it even better
>>
Quick question, from a lorewise standpoint, is there any problem if i use one or two hooded skitarii ranger heads in my skitarii vanguard squad?
>>
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So I've almost finished my second mini. Is there anything I should try to change or fix? I only plan to do some highlights before considering it finished. I should probably also do the teeth and eyes but I'm scared to ruin the entire mini.
>>
>>50281418
Mould lines nigga.
>>
>>50281418

see
>>50281572

Plus sprue scars everywhere.

Overall though it's silly/cool and posed well.
>>
>>50280962
Yeah you might just wanna run em as a cultist champ. Alternatively, I had this idea about having a separate "pilot" model for knight titans (thanks titanfall) that I could magnetize somewhere on an overly elaborate base, maybe something like that?. If all else fails, make a small dark inq force and have him be the mech representative of a little hq squad.
Maybe there's something else he could "fit in" as in the newer chaos dexes, I only have the plain csm one at the moment...
>>
>>50281418
Your scriptor is definitely compensating for something.
>>
>>50281354
Paint his "skin" and head the same, or at least a very similar colour.

>>50281466
Carefully paint a wash into the recesses, and over the mroe heavily textured bits (mail, fur).
>>
>>50280994
what god ya going for? maybe I can find something (if khorne I could just tell you now to go look up eternal hunt)
>>
>>50280517
Simple Green all-purpose household, or the industrial?
>>
>>50281466
Dark green or greenish brown wash on the skin, black or dark brown wash on armor, black or dark brown wash and light gray drybrush on fur.
>>
>>50281692
Tzeentch or Nurgle. Tzeentch is my favorite but I'm wokring on building an army to use the purge detachment. Seen the eternal hunt dude's stuff and some of it is pretty sweet.
>>
>>50281763
hmm got a specific legion or warband in mind?
>>
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I bought this from an anon here and was wondering how best to strip it? It was primed with chaos black primer.
>>
>>50280589
bump..
>>
>>50281781
And that's half the problem for me. It's for my renegades and heretics which I'm thinking of brewing up as the personal army of the dark mechanicus guy leading it. Haven't been able to think of a good design for a human sized mini. Might use a warpsmith as a stand in until then
>>
First 40k mini, skitarii, which will part part of my SoB list
>>
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>>50281894
>>
>>50281686
Well thats not skin but Armor or a shell
>>
>>50281917
Holy fuck, the file is so absurdly large the thumbnail shrunk to a pinhead
>>
>>50271345
Picturing you lining up those tools on your clipboard prior to taking this pictures gives me a chuckle
>>
>>50281892
I think your best bet would be to image search for dark mechanicus (insert god name here) but I'm not finding too much that's Tzeentch. Plenty of Nurgle though. Hell even omitting a god name brings up some cool shit, you could put what unit you want to figure out in the search to give you ideas of how other people have pulled it off with a chaos twist. Also really depends on the level of mutation you want to incorporate (that's usually where the modeling for specific gods comes in).
I love the Cybernetica Datasmith that comes with the kastelan robots, if I ever build up a DM force, a converted up version of that guy is going to be in charge, best part is that you could turn just about anything into something for DM since it's such a weird amalgamation of unique tech. Hell there's a vishnu/spider centaur governess in talon of horus, anything goes.
>>
>>50281853
You might not be able to strip off the primer in the end. I use superclean, which is a grease-cutter (in purple bottle in the automotive section, usually) and cut it with a bit of water. I usually use a sonic cleaner, but letting it soak and scrubbing it should work as well.
>>
>>50274138
These are post-stripping? bummer
>>
>>50282199

Well I suppose I can reuse the primer but I want to get most of the yellow off, I kind of like the paint scheme but there's too much aggrax and weathering on it
>>
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>>50281853
Depends on where in the world you live. I can only speak for the UK, but Will sells something called 'Clean Spirit', which just eats paint (but not plastic, resin or metal) like nobodies business. It's also cheap, non-toxic, non-corrosive and doesn't stink like dettol.

>>50281917
I fixed it for you
can't fix the fact that it's out-of focus and kinda thicc however
>>
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Working on this crisis suit, looong way to go, more layers and highlights and loads of cleanup... Also, do you guys have tips on how to do weathering/scratches on black? Thanks
>>
>>50270992
>>50271106

Man you faggots need to transfer that citadel into a dropper bottle. Fuckers are selling false economy shoving that exquisite paint in such a shitty container. Fuck GW, seriously.
>>
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Here's my most recent WIP. Base and some detailing/freehand still needs doing, but I'm calling her tabletop standard for now. (Sorry if the image is hueg)

>>50281454
I wouldn't worry about it personally, but the Vanguard head look loads better anyway imo.
>>50281062
Bloody hell, wish I'd backed the most recent DZC Kickstarter. Top work, anon, was it fun to paint?
>>50282274
>Will
Wilko, bloody hell.
>>
>>50280471

I listen to general sams skyrim videos on youtube, he has a calming voice, and he's funny as hell
>>
>>50278656
Buy used DSLR, you can generally get fairly recent entry level ones dirt cheap on Craigslist. Look for Nikon D3x00 or whatever the Canon equivalent is.

Avoid the super zooms (the ones that look like DSLRs but aren't) they literally have the same sensors in them that you get in phones.
>>
>>50270647
So /tg/ i just got a box of testors paints for free easily 60 - 80 different shades. Aside from the obvious model cars, planes,etc theyre made for is there anything more /tg/ WIP related theyre good for?
>>
So I want to do a 10th Company Kill team but scouts look like garbage? Any neat little conversions or headswaps to make them a bit nicer looking?
>>
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I am trying to represent frostbite on this pikeman, still no idea how to weather the clothes
>>
>>50282679
Frost/powder snow stuck to them?
>>
>>50282679
The issue is the pose doesn't look cold at all.

People with frostbite (or in weater cold enough) tend to be hunched and keep their extremities (read hands) close their bodies and covered/cold.

You will struggle to make him look convincingly frostbitten because of how he looks imo.
>>
>>50282728
the other minis from the regiment look more beaten up, but I wanted to try on this one because of the free hand (the others are holding the bucklet)
>>
>>50282728
>>50282679

The pose isn't the biggest problem here, its the mini itself. With not even a thin cloak around his shoulders its hard to make it believable that this guy fights during winter.

Well painted though.
>>
>>50282679
little bits of snow on his body/all over the base. possibly a purple wash/glaze on his cheeks? I dunno.
>>
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So my first real time using green stuff hoping any things that look off I can fill with liquid greenstuff
1/2
>>
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The tank came out a bit shit but I hope I can cut it a bit to make it look a bit better 2/2
>>
>>50275904
very well eexecuted, only critique I'd have is the contrast on his beard is a little too big. also, the face looks a litte out of place as the "painterly" style doesn't really sho up in the rest of the miniature
>>
>>50271369
Nice one Paul.
>>
>>50283313

sick ikea sheets bro
>>
>>50271369

Kurwa ja pierdola Paul
>>
>>50283542
They're flippable!
>>
>>50283273
You need to use wet tools so you can rub fingerprints and such smooth.
>>
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Alright, this is my first fully painted mini after watching Duncan's basic tutorials and buying actual miniature paint (11 Game Color varieties and a black Game Ink wash), spray primer, and a size 0 brush and going step by step through undercoating, base paints, washing, and highlights.
What do I focus on for the next one?
>>
>>50283867
thick as fuck paints, face looks naff.

What's the mini from?
>>
>>50283893
How do you use paints that are any thinner? Every other time I took the brush to it, it went into my water cup and mixed with the bit of paint I had spread on my palette. When I tried to use any more water than I did, it was so runny that it ran all over and/or was invisible. Perhaps I had too much on the brush? But even then I couldn't see the very thin paint I brushed on.
Reaper Miniatures, slightly modified. http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/bones%20grandmother/latest/77088
>>
>>50283273
>>50283313
Use wet clay shaping tools or at least something else than your greasy fingers to shape it, I already see fingerprints.
>>
>>50283957
To much water on the brush then.

You need to have the right feel for it, it comes with experience.

The paint should have the consistency of milk on the palette. At this point you don't need to bring water with your brush every time.

To get water to the palette and to mix the paint with it i recommend using a 2nd (bigger, old) brush so you don't get to much paint/water in your actual good brush.

>What do I focus on for the next one

Skin. Face. (Eyes)

Don't do Eyes at your current skill level Anon. Even really good painters leave them away very often, because they can ruin the whole mini if they are done wrong.


Its not a terrible start. Whats your next mini?
>>
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>>50284340
Another Reaper, this time modified for some holiday spirit.
https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/barbarian/latest/03724
I was making him to send as part of the secret santa, but I'm not sure if I can bear to part with him, he's grown on me.
I'm still working on base coats. That shoddy gold in the front has to have at least 4 coats, but it always bled out. Perhaps I should use a separate brush to thin the paint?
>>
>>50284454
For the gold, try using silver/metal as first layer. Gold on black primer will always be difficult to paint. Gold on silver will work way better.

Pretty neat conversion btw.
>>
>>50280216
Thanks senpai
>>
>>50282336
Thank you! Yes it's great fun, the colour scheme was the hardest part about it. It's always been a struggle of mine; army colour schemes. The minute details look amazing and the resin is the best material I've worked with. I've got some prowlers on the way too!
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