WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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>>50325810
Revving up those Orruks for that hot new box coming out soon.

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And here are my valhallans, I finished all the basic infantrymen. I only got 2 meltas, 2 flamers, and a lieuntenant to do before im off to buy and paint, about 7 tanks and 3 sentinels.
Its been a while if actually been proud of my own work and i love look at their goofy little faces.

I am kinda new to painting miniatures and was wondering how did you get the shadows for clothing and such? Was it a wash?

>>50325833
>>50325850
meant for this post.

>>50325850
normally you use a wash, yes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spFUntFXohM

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>>50325850
Mostly, I do a basecoat wash and then 2 step highlight, but the shadows mostly come from a wash, as you can see pic related. Think he uses agrax earthshade.
I used nuln oil for my robes

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>>50325833

I really think I should just layer and shade...I can edge highlight for shit and it always looks fucked up, then I've wasted days or weeks on a mini I have to strip anyway.

>>50325904
>>50325872
Thanks you anons. Also nice youtube tutorial. I kinda like how much in detail he goes and how he shows the whole process unlike a certain GW praise Duncan

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Reposting this from last thread for more input:

Planning to paint my AdMech army like pic-related, Tech-Priest just arrived. Will paint his backplate in this theme, though I'm not sure what to do for the coat.

Grey, white, black, yellow, green and red are all options, orange might be as well.

Also need to paint some piece of the model red in old AdMech tradition. How about the head?

If anyone had any ideas, they're appreciated.

>>50325833

>Commissar not using a laspistol and chainsword

I'm disappointed :(

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Leviathan should be arriving in the mail soon and I'm thinking up how to pose it

came across this image and was wondering what kind of extra work i would have to do to ensure stability and what not for the running pose on the left

>>50326074
>they will never make a ciaphus cain model
Why even live

>>50326074
not included in that kit, unfortunately
theres so much money they could make from doing a commisar kit with a lot of options (like the space marine captain) but nope.

>>50326105
I have one waiting to be built and I think I'm going to get the bits for a dreadnought torso and one arm, cut it up so it's lying in the base with the front plate up and painted in traitor colours, and have my Leviathan stepping on it victoriously.

>>50326150
but anon they did and 3rd parties have too?

>>50326105
Reinforcement pins + two component epoxy glue + something that holds the pieces in place until the glue dried.

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>Paint half the models for everyone at my FLGS and some friends outside it
>get models in exchange for tabletop quality work
>not only is my plastic crack addiction sated, but get to gain experience painting different armies

It's a pretty fucking comfy feel. Getting Magnus in exchange for painting a Space Wolf army soon, the irony is not lost on me.

Who /designatedpainter/ here?

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>>50326324
dont have much experience with pinning what should i use?

would some thin brass rods from a hardware store work or hell even paperclips?

and would the red lines be a good idea of where to pin it, the left side leg being lifted behind the dreadnought and the right one going all the way through the base?

>>50326432
When I was much younger, I played against this guy at my FLGS a couple times, and he eventually offered me money to paint stuff for him. I'd only painted Orks before and he was an Eldar player, but I gave it a go.

Eventually he also told me his friend wanted mini's painted, and he brought me a GW case with 10 Grey Knights, and 5 GK Terminators, saying he'd pay me after they were done. He never got in contact with me again, so now I have some Grey Knights.

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House Vyronii Knight progress. Still need to paint the carapace green, continue to layer and shade most of the whites, but getting there. Really wishing I had an airbrush, since Tamiya Clear Green really doesn't like being applied by brush.

What is the best color to wash white with if I want something that looks clean?

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A random Inquisitor/ henchman/ rogue trader I kitbashed together. Help me name him.

>>50326674
Dwarf Longbeard Longleg.

>>50326645
How much contrast are you going for? I would just go with a black wash for any crevices to make the white pop.

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>>50326645
the key is to not actually wash the white, but crevices and depressions in the model. If you want a pre heresy World Eaters look of clean FW uses dark blue in the recesses and a super watered down blue glaze on the raised bits.

Bottom World eater scheme for reference, sans the weathering on the legs of course

>>50326771

you don't happen to have a pdf for alpha legion would you?

>>50326629
Oh, also need to do all the gold banding.

>>50326794
not a specific pdf unfortunately. Do remember the recipe though:

Coat whole model in leadbelcher, then apply coats of runefang steel to desired shine. Airbrush on tamiya clear blue. Thats the armor at least to get that shining look.

>>50326771
>the key is to was depressions in the model
I just tried that and when I got back from the kitchen my librarian had hung himself and my Deathwing sergeant jumped off the shelf to his death.

RIP in pieces, you will be missed.

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>>50326105
>fear apexes

>>50326069
I've seen you asking for input for several thread ago. there comes a point where you just need to paint up a test model to see if you are happy with it. Start with a ranger or vanguard to test your scheme, I wouldn't start on the tech priest dominus until you have it finalized.

If I were going to do a metallic blue/green for admech (I personally wouldn't), the primary color I would pair with it for things like robes would be a dark purple, dark blue, or white. Red robes or hood with turquoise metal armor panels will look to cartoonish in my opinion. If you want to use red in your scheme it would ideally be used to color small objects like cables and piping to provide a nice contrast, much like the eyes on the AL in your picture.

>>50326466
Jumbo paperclips would be fine

>>50325833
You do the Emperor proud anon. I'm looking forward to seeing what you paint next.

Any tips on how to make centaurs?
I want to add rough riders to my abhuman guard.

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Guy from last thread who was looking to add some color to my Tyrannocyst. Went over it with some Warpstone Green, applying the layer in the same quick manner of a dry brush, but not taking the paint off first so it applied more thickly. Did a thin layer up top so it blends into the black. Thinking of doing a wash next, but not sure which one would work best.

>>50326674
Sir Reginald Arthur Quintus Septus Sexilius the Third.

>>50326895
That is if you don't want to just buy a blue metallic. Or do a mix of blue and metallic medium.

>>50326945
Yeah, have to admit that I asked 2 or 3 times over the last week or so, just trying to get some different opinions on things before starting out.
Apologies if it came off as spammy/obnoxious/retarded.

Anyway, testing the theme on more models is probably the best call, though I'd have to see what to get to test it on. Didn't originally intend to even run Skitarii for my AdMech list, only the Cult units, though Kataphrons and Castelans are way too expensive to use as test dummies while Electro-Priests don't exactly provide a good model to test on, having no armor and all that. Picking up a cheap Vanguard/Rangers pack off of eBay, or even the Start Collecting! box, selling the extra Priest or using him as a spare, is probably my best, and cheapest, bet in this situation.

I mostly want to paint my guys in that scheme because I just really fucking love those colors and the AdMech design, but am not a big fan of the pure red, white or black they use for almost every scheme. I get that anything deviating from the "warm color" spectrum is probably pretty heretical to the Omissiah and the canon, but I'd still like to see something different done on them.

Thanks for the reply, nonetheless. Will probably stick to a white robe and make the eyes, liquid and non-plasma energy glows red as a bit of contrast and the red highlight.

>>50327068
Can you ever go wrong with Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade?

>>50327068
I don't know what it looked like before but I think choosing five different colors was a mistake.

at least two of those colors should have been a different shade of another color already present and then blended together.

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>>50327254
Before it was solid black where the green was. I wanted to make it pop more.
Here it is.

>>50327230
Not the best with washes, so I'm unsure what Oil would do vs. what Earthshade would do to the color.

>>50326794
For an anon's (great) scheme
See >>50326069 image

Forge World uses an airbrush for theirs. First they coat the entire thing in a metal/silver and do a zenithal highlight with silver. Then they use Tamiya Clear Blue and Green. It's interesting how they do the coats though. Basically for one they put a bit more towards the top, and on the other they put a bit more towards the bottom. So you have this metallic purple where it gently gradients from blue-purple to purple to green-purple all riding on top of the silver zenithal highlight they put down earlier. Probably takes a shit ton of skill (plus, you know, an airbrush), but it looks amazing.

>>50327348
Oil is a black wash while Earthshade is more like an umber. I'd definitely lean more toward Earthshade or something like 1:1 Athonian Camoshade : Earthshade.

>>50326771
any tips for doing that pre heresy world eaters scheme? what kind of blue glaze would you use on the raised bits? and woud you just use that drakenhof nightshade/nuln oil/lahmian/water mix for the recesses?

another question I have is how the hell do you "sponge" white on all the panels anyway.

>>50327588
Use this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veLfxJmIzyw&t=600s

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>>50327617
I did, this was the result. thought I'd strip all my dudes and try something else.

>>50327636
We explained this to you in /hhg/ man. Duncan's instructions in that video are correct, you need to work on thinning those paints (even further than you already are, apply more thinner coats, and waiting for it to try between each one) and your brush control.

>>50327636
>I followed the instructions
[parkinsons model]
>the instructions didn't work so I'm trying a technique that's fundamentally messier

Dude, the Duncan video is fine, you just need to hone that brush control.

>>50326629
>Vyronii
I find your choice of house... aesthetic as fuck.

I have no idea why but painting Jump Packs are always such a pain in the ass for me. It's not like there is a lot to them as well, it's just something about them I loath doing.

>>50327850
Then maybe stop playing space marines?

I feel the same way about regular back packs.

I think it's just the fact that they are probably the most boring part of a model.

>>50327930
>Hating to paint 1 part of a mini.
>Should stop painting those minis.

>>50327980
That's probably it. Maybe also because they tend to be the last part I paint and so at that point I figure I just want to be done by that point.

So whats everyone go to paints? I personally like to go with Vallejo for basing and highlighting and use Citadel for Washes and Metallics.

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Is it wrong how much I want these?

Is non-spray White Scar good for priming a model with? Only have Imperial Primer left and about to start my first set of brightly colored minis, doubt it'll work for those (considering one of the main colors will literally be white).

Also, for doing large areas of white and blending it, will Administratum Grey, Dawnstone and White Scar be enough colors to make it look decent?

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>>50328050
>Lust Elves

>>50328050
If it's wrong then I guess we are both sinners anon.

>>50327636

Rather than painting pure white and trying to add shading after, start with a dirty light grey and build up white after.
You have a steady hand, now thin those paints more.

What are the artificer tints like?

>>50328170
probably not very useful at all, which is why no one is really reviewing them. they're just extremely expensive pigment (just straight pigment) and you just put a little bit in bottles (yes, they're only useful for changing the tints of bottles)
it might be useful for making a purple-ish black right out of the gate, or something like that, but for the most part, you can find whatever colors they'll make together online for cheaper.

>>50328170
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzgvwkDiwSw

skeptical desu

>>50328050
Aren't these the guys who made the succubus with the giant nipples and pronounced vulva?

So before I do something I may regret, is mixing gloss varnish with a paint a bad idea? I want to make a nice "fresh blood" effect, and while mixing a red with Agrax Earthshade was a decent start, I feel like it needs a wetter look to make it pop.
Has anyone tried anything like this?

>>50328025
I have a pretty mixed box of Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter and cheap craft store paints (usually Americana). The craft store stuff makes good mixing fodder, and there's usually a good flat black or bone white to be had there.

>>50328200
So basically a paint to mix with other paints when you can just do that with paints from before. Citadel is easily the most jewish paint line ever.

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>>50328050
I went with fantasy Sisters myself.

>>50328259
It should work if you specifically want the red to look very thin and transparent. You are essentially thinning the paint. For a bolder red do the paint first and then gloss over it afterwards. GW sells a specialty technical paint called "Blood for the Blood God" to do fresh blood all in one step.

>>50328261
It's an addon product for advanced users. Nothing particuarly "Jewish" about it. The normal paints are all still there.

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Commissar for my girl guard. Sculpting is hard.

>>50328353
Not the person you're replying to, but out of curiosity, what would work if I wanted to make my own blood? I've been trying to figure out how to make purple alien blood for some of my figures.

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Well the paint I was using for my airbrush is coming out too dark when I use it to manually paint it on the model. As a result I had to buy new paint and try and color match them to the stuff I already have painted. A total pain. This is what I worked on tonight, just to see if I could get the match right. I still need to do a lot of the detail work, I took this after the first wash but before any highlights. Did I match the colors close enough? The sky weaver is what I already had painted and the player is what I worked on tonight.

>>50328447
Generally the most straightforeard way is to paint the "blood" color normally with the colors you want and then go over it with gloss to get that "wet" effect.

Do feel free with mixing it with your paints, since gloss varnish is really just gloss medium. You'll probably need to experiment a bit to get of feel for how it operates though. When you mix like that you're essentially creating a glaze, so you'll have to get a feel for how it behaves. And you probably want a combination of normal paint and mixes.

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>Trying to decide how many layers and how many bases to get
>Mfw I don't know whether to get all base, all layer, or both

>>50328381
>defending Jewish practices

You know very well that they will make it in all their videos and guides that you will have to use it. Stop being so brand loyal.

>>50328534
>buying one brand
>falling for the "layer" meme

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>>50328534
>Not just buying every paint

>>50328546
Not that anon, but the technical range is just for getting different effects which you can get with a lot of work, and a lot of other paints. Lahmian medium is for mixing with other paints to dilute the color, but not the consistency.

Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade, which one is more cheating?

>>50328589
Nuln oil. Black goes with more things than brown.

>>50328559
Then what do you recommend, Anon?

>>50328534
p sure layer paints are just different colored base paints. they all use the same formula as other paint brands.

>>50328621
Not him but you can apply bases and layers the exact same way, there are some slight differences in consistency and that is it. GW just uses that terminology as a branding aspect. You can buy Vallejo equivalents of those paints.

>>50328546
Guess how much "Texture paint" I've bought from GW. Zero. I'm just stating facts.

They might do one video to demonstrate these but this stuff is outside the norm. They will not use these much if at all. In fact, their entire paint range is built around the idea that beginners don't have to mix paints at all. You just have GW wallet ptsd.

>>50328621
A mix between different brands. Vallejo and P3 are good for base coats and highlights. I will give it to GW for making excellent washes but Vallejo has more solid washes if you dont base the whole miniature in a wash. Metallics go either way but i prefer Vallejo.

Lets not forget bigger bottles and more paint compared to GW.

>>50328648
Awesome! Thanks.

>>50328680
>>50328648
conversion chart. http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

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>>50328534
Start with the base paints of the colors you want. They have more pigment and with make your like easier getting good color. Layer paint wise it depends on how much highlighting you want to do and wether you want to mix your own paints. Consider getting on layer paint for your colors and maybe two (going up to a bright highlight) for color you plan to use commonly with your scheme. Really though you can just get one layer paint because you can always mix a lighter highlight by adding white, off-white, or light yellow to your standard layer paint. It all depends on you budget. If you're completely lost and don't mind spending a little extra just follow their paint chart. At least for your main colors.

If wanted to do everything with mixing and don't mind painting lots of layers to get solid colors, or if you prefer priming white, you could also just do it all with just layer paints. White, Black, and basic colors for mixing. It probably easier for a beginner to just buy some more pots though.

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>>50328675
>>50328690
Thanks, Anons.

>>50328648
Yeah "Layer" paint is basically the same as every other companies' paint. "Base" paint just has bit more pigment in it to make it cover a black undercoat a little better.

>>50328680
>>50328690
The Vallejo "Heavy ..." line corresponds to the same pigment density (thus how well it covers) as Citadel's "Base" line. The vast majority of Vallejo paints are somewhere between "Base" and "Layer" in consistency. Also of note is that since the Great Citadel Painting Renaming of 20XX the colours don't always line up perfectly from the old formulations.

Also I might be crazy but I don't think Vallejo has a blue that's as light as Lothern Blue. I have VGC Electric Blue but that's still not quite there. I was looking at my FLGS's paint rack and I ended up having to go with the Citadel one.

ALSO. I tend to buy a lot of Vallejo Thinner Medium because it thins much nicer than just water and it's cheaper than the Lahmian Medium.

>>50328819
>ALSO. I tend to buy a lot of Vallejo Thinner Medium because it thins much nicer than just water and it's cheaper than the Lahmian Medium.

That's a good tip. Thanks.

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>>50328840
or there's this. Ends up cheaper.

>>50328934
What is the difference between that and glazing medium? I have a bottle of that brand's glazing medium, and I am wondering if there is a functional difference beyond just the sheen.

>>50329012
https://www.art-is-fun.com/acrylic-mediums/

>>50328134
I was following the duncan technique of priming white, basing ulthuan grey, then doing crevices and corners with agrax earthshade, but I was having a lot of trouble making small lines and not having the wash spill over, do I just need a smaller brush or just to "git gud"?

>>50329113
Try bracing your hands better. Hold your brush in one hand the mini in the other and then physically put you wrists together, palms toward each other like someone was tying a rope around your wrists. Then rest both wrists on your table or table edge and paint using motion of your fingers and rotating the model. This can help to make your brushwork much neater and steadier.

>>50329113
Just correct the thick bits with ulthuan grey. It's much easier to make a thick line thin than it is to paint a thin line in the first place.

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>>50329373
but do you think this "quality" is unsalvageable and I should just strip and start over? people on HHG said the brass rim paint looked too THICC, so I'm not sure whether I can fix it from here or I need to start from square one.

>>50329433
your impulse is correct. Strip it. Multiple accurate thin coats then start on washing armour indents.

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>>50329658
would I be better off using a smaller paint brush, loading less paint on the brush, or both? I've been using pic related from the internet's army painter character brush for pretty much everything, and using the flat side of the small drybrush to put the blue onto flat surfaces like like the pauldrons and backpack.

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Uuugggghh so much work

>>50329812
rule of the thumb use as a big a brush as you can get away with. I know it sounds like a meme but can't overstate how important thinning your paints is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EogxYu8dgzY

>>50329906
Woah I didn't realise the Vallejo medium was so opaque before drying. Why do they do that?

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>>50323447
Whats included in that set? Pigments? Or is it paint?

dunno if you're still around anon but it's paint only.

>>50326432

I was the local flagpole-to-brassrod and/or pinning guy. Simple job, but no one enjoyed doing it. I charged 5 bux per dude and I managed to get some pretty shiny stuff with that money. Eventually I finished school and got a real job and didnt need to depend on the lazyness of others to get my fix.

Boring story, but a story non the less

>>50329433
You need to thin your paints, badly.

Thinner paint = less paint on your brush = thinner layers = more detail better colours and more possibilities.

>>50330060
5 bucks US or 5 polish bucks?

The distinction is important.

>>50330109
which parts specifically? I was mixing lahmian medium into the paint on my wet pallette getting it to a milky consistency...all of the /tg/ buzzwords, maybe I'm putting too much of it on my brush?

>>50329433
You'll never be able to lose that 'gummy' look you get when you don't thin your paints, especially white. I fucking hate white. You might want to start with an easier pant.

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Posting from the other thread. My BT captain. Still loads to do but I've made decent headway after it sitting on my shelf unpainted for over a year.

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>>50330345

>>50329433
If you're going to do a lot, you might want to get a spray can. Much better for base coats.

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-AU/Corax-White-Spray-Global

>>50330233
I'm guessing the reply was meant to go to the post above that one talking about thinning your paints?

If you put too much paint on your model it will either run into crevices and over the lines, going further than you want, or it will dry into crevices and become thick and gluggy.

So, take your pick I guess? Do both. Thin it to the point you can paint thin translucent layers on the glass, and then put less on your brush. Experiment. You can always just paint sprues until you get your layering down.

>>50330441
Should specify - the first happens when it is too thin, the second happens when it is too thick.

I'm looking for small, cutsie bat wings to put on a 28mm gal's back.

The three bat kits GW produces are generally not fitting for salvaging, besides being way over priced they're bad sculpts.

For reference, the Deldar jumppack units' bat wings would be far too large. Looking for something as small or a bit larger than Etna's wings fron Disgaea.

Sculpting wings at that small scale has been a series of failures for me.

>>50327818
I like them because they're green and one of the ony Forge World-made houses that aren't black and red.

>>50330345
>>50330354
Looks ace. Not sure what to make of the "wet" rocks on the base though.

>>50330457
https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/devil/sku-down/77335

>>50328070
At least they are honest.

>>50330345
>>50330354
looks good but the tires need some weathering.

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Reposting in here as well.

Still a couple of days left to join.

>>50327636
Looks cool but replace the bolter arm if you can. I cant stand how goofy the 2nd edition boltgun look.

>>50330354
What are those paints with the high tips in the background?

Nice modelling job by the way

>>50330503
Cheers anon. I'm not too sure either, I was trying to achieve a leaking pipe look but i don't think I'm a fan.

>>50330537

it's still a pup, I have loads left to do including highlighting and then weathering.

>>50330587
Those are tattoo inks dude. I'm a practising tattoo artist.

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Made some progress on my dudes. Time to feel the noise!

>>50329898
Getting ready for that sweet new codex?

>>50330345
>>50330354
Liked it in the other thread, still liking it here. The only thing that turns me off is the mixture of BT and DA/RW heraldry, but aside from that it's a sweet conversion and a good paintjob.

>>50331128
Was literally just looking at this.

http://www.spellcrow.com/pleasure-legions-c-9_43.html

Emperor's Children planning stages.

>>50331128
fuck yes, love me some kitbashes with 3 different types of materials all coming together into one cohesive model. Wish I could buy that torso of the dude bottom second from the left by itself, head is attached right?
>>50331199
I wanna get those guitar arms too, not even a EC guy, but I still wanna make a band on a tank kinda thing like that kiss one that gets posted every once in a while... but hopefully better looking

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Could you recommended me a good guide or video to learn how to paint robes, capes and dresses? I have no idea how to make it look good like in the pic.

>>50331328
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spFUntFXohM

>>50331366
Thanks, I'll check it when I get home from work.

Any change any of you fine gentlemen would be willing to take a picture of a size comparison between an Exocrine and a Leman Russ?

I'm a cheapskate looking to start a Genestealer Cults army, and I've been thinking of ways that I can make dual-units.

For example, converting an Exocrine into a mounted beast that the cultists ride around, that I can use as either a Leman Russ in a GSC list, or as a regular old Exocrine in a Tyranid list.

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I'm converting orky warbikes and I desperately need wheels. I'm thinking about getting some lego wheels for conversion. What do you think, is this going too far into the "toy territory" or its alright?

>>50329906
Should I actually get some thinner, or can I just use water?

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>>50331469
...also I found this(pic related): I have a suspicion that this is lego wheel and I think it turned out alright.

>>50331477
I mean it's better but water still does the job,

>>50328170
They're like regular artists tints, only significantly more expensive and in insultingly small portions.

>>50331469
Check out ramshackle games.
Cheap tracks/wheels and other doodads you could use for orky conversions.

I mean lego stuff works but it's not really comparable in terms of detail and it's not even that much cheaper.

>>50331875
Sadly I live far away from UK, so buying few wheels from them will cost me an arm and a leg once post fee kicks in.

Lego wheel I linked costs 6-8 rub in my area(thats ~0.1$). So I'd obviously prefer that to a 1-1.5£ 2-4 wheel pack that I also have to order for delivery. I do agree on the lack of detail - but hey, I could try and find some neat disk to make it look better.

TL;DR : would it trigger your inner autist if someone would have Lego wheels on his coverted models?

>>50331999
>would it trigger your inner autist if someone would have Lego wheels on his coverted models?

Once painted you won't recognize it i guess.

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Working on my few Deathwatch until the big december kit is up for order.

Great stuff, like Brother totally not Lias Issodon

Just too bad they guy i bought it from decided to prime it on the sprue.

Now with the damn attachment.

>>50328582
Did that the last time around and I gotta be honest, I'd do it again.

Just rebuying paint when it runs out without having to keep track of what I actually have is great.

>>50332525
Shilling hard?

>>50332581
>Having all the paint you could need is a bad thing
>Just because it's sold by a specific company
You're trying to hard

>>50326771

Imperial Fists/All Legions version?

>>50332619
Buying everything from one company is just dumb. Buying the entire paint range from GW out of all companies is even retarded.

>>50332581
>shilling
>on /wip/

It may come as a surprise, but people have different amounts of disposable income. But don't get your hand me down panties in a bunch, because I also have about a hundred pots from different brands like Army Painter, P3 or Vallejo.

>>50332681
In that case your advise is even more worthless because you can't speak for the majority.

>Buy the entire range from one company
Thats just stupid

In your special case its not, because apparently you also own the ranges from lots of other companies.. which is something that simply does not apply to most people in here.

>>50328796
I would add that the citadel base paints tend to be darker tones than their layer paints, partly to help you bring a black surface up to a brighter color with fewer coats of paint.

>>50332710
Maybe not the majority, but judging by the pictures of the painting stations that get posted here now and again, there are at least 10 regular posters with upwards of 200 pots of paint in these threads. And then some with far, far more.

>>50332744
why do you think these guys are the ones posting their stations?
it's all about the size of your e-peen

>>50332744
I will second for stating that most painting battle-stations have a very extensive collection of paint, though I think it is wrong to argue this was all bought at one time. Many of the people with these defecated painting spaces have been doing this for a long time, and as such have a collection of paints just to the sheer amount of time they've been doing it.

On another note: could anyone tell me if adding a small copper BB to a pot of citadel paint helps at all? I've got a pot or two that's been sitting for a while (my local store doesn't sell much) and mixing it can be a bitch.

>>50332795
>defecated

>>50328442

First you need to get the general shape down, then add details. I am not sure what you did. Positioning is good, proportions seem in order but I am not sure what the texture is supposed to be.

>>50329898

>not just buying the plastic Sisters start collecting in a month

>>50332795
>to a pot of citadel paint helps at all?

You can open it and just stir around in it with a toothpick to achieve the same result.
Thats not so easy with dropper bottles, so people use agitators.

>>50332744
I used to have an absurd amount of paints but I basically narrowed it down after a lot of testing. Now I only own 2 ranges which are tamiya acrylics and formula p3 which I use regularly. In addition i buy the odd single paint from another range if I need it for a specific recipie or to match colors on a commission project.

Honestly most ranges out there are ok and preferance is a thing that develops with time and increasing skill level as you learn to appreciate the subtle differences that the different ranges provide. I think buying a full range to start off with for example is a decent decision provided you are serious and won't drop painting in a weeks time. However maybe not go with a huge range like vallejo model color.

>>50332873
>inb4 plastic sisters will look worse than the old metal ones

It happened before.. just sayin

>>50332854
Lol, fuck me that's magically bad.

>>50332876
Hmm, alright then, I'll probably grab a metal stirrer then, I feel a wooden toothpick might soak up a bit too much.

>>50332887

Have you seen the sisters of silence? Sisters of battle are going to be just fine.

>>50332795
I have a lot of paint but yeah mostly this has accrued over quite some time.

>>50332912
Same here. Certainly not the guy with the most paint, but i usually buy just a couple of pots whenever i start a new project.

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>>50332887
I dunno m8

>>50332946
Thats not GW though

>>50332900
I've seen them and they are ok. Nothing to get me hyped desu.

I'm still traumatized by their plastic demon prince i guess. Lets just hope for the best.

>>50332978

Prince came out how long ago? 2006? Technology has advanced. GW's modular kits are pretty awesome these days.

So, here's a few questions for you fine folk:

1. What brushes do you use? I've got a nice-ish set of hobby brushes, but there are times where they feel kind of cheap.

2. What;s the best way to learn to sculpt and the like? Should I just go balls to the wall and kitbash or what?

3. Related to above, what tools/putty do you use for sculpting?

Honestly noone really NEEDS more than 50 paints. They just want the variety and ease.

In fact you could probably cover most eventualities with 30 paints, and a bit of paint-mixing.
> black wash, brown wash, yellow-brown wash (for flesh and gold)
>black, medium grey, light grey, white
>dark brown, medium brown
>base colours like mephiston red, averland sunset, deathworld forest green, medium blue
>medium steel, gold, silver, bronze (maybe)

then add about a dozen paints to suit what you're painting.

>>50332887
almost all the kits in the last few years have looked better than metal ones.

>>50332525
>Just rebuying paint when it runs out without having to keep track of what I actually have is great.
He's right.

>>50333059
>then add about a dozen paints to suit what you're painting.

Yes, but these start to pile up if you work on different armies, games etc alot.

But in general you are right. Most people are just lazy and rather buy a new type of gray for their space wolves for example instead of mixing their existing paint to get a matching gray.

>>50332795
>I will second for stating that most painting battle-stations have a very extensive collection of paint, though I think it is wrong to argue this was all bought at one time
I bought a full set of GW paints in one go.

A buddy bought one of those GW paint racks from his distributor, split the included paint into sets and sold them on Ebay.

I got my set heavily discounted and he got his set free.

Anyone got any idea how to add a bit of personality to a Skitarii Kill Team? Probably going to run a 10-man KT with them, not sure what to do to make them stand out a bit more.

>>50326105
>Well, you can tell by the way I use my walk, I'm a woman's man: no time to talk...

>>50333091
Hmmm, now I might have to hunt through ebay to see if anyone else is doing this, would be a sweet deal probably.

I do wish GW made a clear metallic medium or something. Perhaps like their artificer pigment sets. It would be nice to turn any color I want into a metallic.

>>50333111
https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Acrylic-Paint-Metallic-Medium/dp/B000PHBETE

>>50332744
I have a shitload of different types of paint. Basically I've bought and tried out a bunch of different brands and seen which ones are the best for my usage, so I probably have over 150 paint pots that I actually use once in a while. But I made this collection over 5+ years of painting.

Buying the whole line of paints might sound good, but you really aren't getting much savings at all, and you won't end up using probably 3/4's of them, if that, unless you plan on painting several armies wildly different color schemes. It's gonna be a waste of money 99% of the time, especially since you'll have to manage all those paints every few months to make sure they don't dry out.

>>50333125
>https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Acrylic-Paint-Metallic-Medium/dp/B000PHBETE
Well fuck me sideways, Imma have to grab that.

>>50333140
This might be shameful here, but I don't paint entire armies worth of stuff. I like the modeling aspect of the hobby, I find actually playing the game to be way too fucking awful. Even the average clipped-and-cut batrep is too fucking slow for me. As such I will paint up a small unit or something, but I doubt I'll ever have an entire army of dudes, all the same.

So while you are correct that army painting doesn't benefit from just buying the paint line, I would argue that there are others for whom this may be a viable option.

>>50333268
>This might be shameful here, but I don't paint entire armies worth of stuff.
WIP has both extremes (I only paint armies and am always production lining stuff) and plenty that fall somewhere in the middle.

Buying a paint range makes sense if you get a really good deal on it. I thought it was going to be a waste but I've actually expanded my techniques a lot because I had the paint sitting there to try it vs. needing to buy a bunch of paints just to try something which tends to make you more conservative.

>>50333268
I don't play the game either. I literally only paint and model 40k troops. (I also have things from other mini lines as well) Unless you're going to be painting models from every army in 40k/sigmar, as well as other mini companies, you won't need every single paint from one brand.

>>50333040

The digital sculpts are very often half-assed, especially textures like fur where it tends to look like the sculpter just copy-pasted one tiny segment across the whole figure. Those mind-numbingly stupid space wolf wolf-riders are a great example of this

How much would my guys suffer if I don't highlight them? I'm terrible at it and don't feel like having to repaint the same dudes 5 times because my highlights are too thick.

>>50333539
highlighting brings definition to otherwise flat colors. compare
https://www.games-workshop.com/resources/catalog/product/600x620/99170199012_SpaceMarinePaintSet03.jpg
to
https://www.games-workshop.com/resources/catalog/product/600x620/99120101128_SpaceMarineTacticalSquadReformat03.jpg

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Hey look, it only took 15 hours but my battle engine is finally complete, mostly. Just have to clean up some lines, but since I'm running a match in a few hours I have to move on to other units

>>50333268
>s such I will paint up a small unit or something, but I doubt I'll ever have an entire army of dudes, all the same.

I don't play any games, i just paint for the fun of it. Over the years (its been a while since i counted) i collected well over 100 pots and bottles of paint. I usually buy some new paints if i want to try something or if i run out of one. Usually i buy 2 or more pots of similar color if i need something, just to see which one works or looks better..

I guess there is no harm in buying a whole set if you super rich, but personally i don't see the point.

>>50333586
...To me the latter looks flatter.

but that's due to the camera being up close and the lighting being optimal, on a table it'll reverse.

>>50333588
Where's that deco beaut from?

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>>50326674
Decided to make a rogue trader crew. Here's the rest of em

>>50333586
But how do you even GET lines like that?

>>50333686
Practice

>>50333686
a thin brush, and steady hands.

>>50333650
looks good so far

>>50333090
this desu. Painting Imperial Assault led to something of a spree.

>>50333650
Nice!

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I don't have an airbrush for metallic reds nor the steady hand for fine details but advice on this WIP T-son is welcome

He's blue tacked together ATM

>>50334364
Looks neat. The eyes are especially nice.

>>50332619
>not buying paints as you need them
>not buying different paints from different brands

Each brand does something better then the other. GW has great washes and i would probably never use any other but Vallejo is my main bet when it comes to base coating, layering, and highlighting,

>>50331999
>>50332340
Just remember to armour plate the wheels like the GW trukk.

>>50334364
Remember to remove mould line on his helmet next time.

>>50330523
Those are kinda perfect, actually. Thanks a lot!

I know my FLGS stocks bones, so hopefully they have a blister of these.

>>50334364
How'd you do that red m8?

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>>50333650
Primed up my blinged-out space pirates. Prefer using greys for their faces and wish I could of done that with the tech-savant but his head was glued prior since I didn't plan ahead.

Time for the fun part of deciding color schemes. Thinking the arch-militant chick will have a similar outfit to what I've seen in Dishonoured 2.

>>50331487
yes, they are legowheels...

>>50328442
Guessing those are green stuffed boobies under clothe?

/wipg/ I need your help. When it comes to painting gold armor, I've had exactly zero experience. I'm picking up some of the custodes from burning of prospero and I don't want them to look like actual ass. Any tips on painting gold armor?

>>50335943
Prime with light color, put a silver paint as basecoat and paint gold over it.

>>50336049
Thanks man. Light grey should be an ok primer for that, correct?

>>50336099
yes

>>50336099
If you want to save some time, Army Painter has a metallic spraycan primer too.

>>50335943
Another way is to base with a reddish brown and then layer gold over that.
It'll result in a warmer, deeper hue for your gold.
Do make sure to take a gold that has decent coverage though, otherwise it'll take infinity layers to get a decent look.

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>>50333610
Convergence of Cyriss from Warmachine. Got some super serious Metropolis vibes going on in their style.

>>50331469
I've had some luck going to thrift stores and looking through the toy section for usefully sized toy cars, trucks, or whatever. My local Value Village even bags up miscellaneous orphaned or crappy little toy bits and sells them for a couple dollars a bag. Cheap way to come up with useful orky bits and gubbins.

What amount of magnetizing is too much magnetizing?

Thinking of slapping magnets into my Skitarii's necks and each arm to freely swap between Vanguards and Rangers. Not sure what to do about the big bases needed for their sniper rifles, might even add magnets to on model's feet for that.

Am I overdoing things or is this still reasonable?

Links to any good video on robes? Right now my folds look like garbo.

>>50336862
Painting or sculpting?

anyone have any good guides for painting flesh? the list I am looking at features some 70+ shirtless dudes and I cannot into painting skin

>>50336894
Painting.

I got some Dangles vets to be my sarges since they're vets anyway in the list, but my folds don't look smooth or subtle at all. Maybe I'm putting it in too shallow of a recess.

>>50335074
>>50332340
>>50336189
Thanks for replies

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>>50333588
After an hour's break we're back! I don't think I'm getting the porcelain or energy on these two done today, but at least I'll have almost half my army started before games tonight

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A Necron Lord I painted up this weekend. I assembled this guy nearly a year ago before I knew how to bend resin back into place, so he's a little wonky, but he fights for his dynasty all the same.

>>50337119
I really like those heads, where can I grab those? What's their size? Would love to try and fit them onto my Kastelan Robots if they're big enough.

Liking your paint job so far, especially the way that the gold appears so cold because of the other colors makes it stand out.

>>50337499
They come on Warmachine Convergence of Cyriss Reciprocators, Perforators, and Eradicators. They're 1cm diameter, and thanks! I've been getting a lot of shit about using the pink on them instead of green or blue but I like it and I'm using blue for the fabric on other minis in the army so I can't exactly use it in two major places like that.

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Blood Bowl is coming out, the set has 12 human and 12 orc players. And that means a shitload of painting for a guy whose only job is a passable army of Necrons.

The GW painting guide tells me to spend hours and hours of work over each figurine and a 160 bucks to paint two teams.


What is the easiest way to paint up passable 24 figures, without it costing me a fortune? How many paints would I need for 2 teams? Should I do it with dry-brushing?

>>50337766
Do you want them to look exactly like on the GW page?

>>50337810
Nah, actually I'd prefer to use some other color scheme.

>>50337766
>What is the easiest way to paint up passable 24 figures
the sprues used pre-dyed plastic just gorilla glue them together preferably after removing the mold lines, but you might need a hobby knife and file for that and you sound like you don't want to buy anything you don't have to.

Ordered a hundred 2mm x 1mm magnets the other day that should arrive tomorrow. Those will be sufficient for any non-vehicle models, right?

>>50337895
they are stronger than you think and will work for most vehicle parts too, especially if you use multiple

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Pretty much finished my bike castellan

>>50337912
Alright, yay me for not doing something stupid out of impulse.

Now to hope I can actually work with this pin vise thing and not destroy my models because of it.

Normal super glue is enough for holding the magnets inside their holes, right?

>>50337858
actually the models are push fit with no glue required

snap them off the sprue with your fingers (clippers are an unneeded expense), push the models together, and then contemplate your poor choices

>>50337936
>stole Corteaz's hammer
>stole a ravenwing bike
>eying that chaos sorcerer staff
>the black templar armor was probably lifted too
>theft marines

>>50337936
Really awesome model, would field all the time.

Still would've loved to see some drifting lines on there like he did the Akira-break thing.

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>>50337858
The shopowner I get my stuff from is kind enough to use his tools so I at least don't need to buy that. I'm okay with playing with their base color, but I know I'm gonna want to paint them sooner rather than later. I guess my point is that I know I won't bother with layering or highlighting, so if I just want to apply the base colors and a shade, how much would that cost me?

>pic
This color scheme looks rad. It doesn't seem to require that many paints either. But what do I know, Reikland Reavers look like the simplest paint scheme to paint and GW tell me to spend a hundred bucks on the paint.

>>50337974
>Normal super glue is enough for holding the magnets inside their holes, right?
Yes, but make sure you have the magnets facing the right way. It is almost impossible to get them out again if you mess up like I did

>>50337994
Around Black( Templar)s, Never Relax

>>50337994
Sweet, I won't even need glue!

>contemplate your poor choices

Why's that? Is BB a shit game or what?

>>50338027
Kek

>>50338016
Yeah, I made that mistake once back in art class and it ruined my grade during that year in middle school. It was the worst.

>>50338003
>a red base
>a red highlight, maybe a mid tone as well
>red wash
>at least two silvers, nuln oil
>gloss wash
>matt varnish
>at least two browns
>at least two fleshtones

>>50338037
unpainted unglued models with the mold lines still on will look terrible.

>>50337858
Don't fucking use gorilla glue. Get your monkey memes out of here.

Their products are not designed for gluing plastics together. It's like the biggest thing they specifically don't do well.

Just use superglue brand superglue gel. It really is the cheapest to buy, and is designed for plastics. It doesn't crystalize scab when it dries, and specifically doesn't bond well to oily surfaces, like your skin, so it's easier to work with than most other superglues.

>>50335577
Base silver, tamiya clear red

>>50338106
Wouldn't it be better to use that specific plastic glue thing? That melds plastic and nothing else?

>>50338106
said anon was trying to avoid spending any money at all, even at the cost of having shitty looking models at the end

gorilla glue costs less. It doesn't matter anyway since those particular models are push fit and don't need to be glued (please glue them with plastic glue and fill the seams. Please.)

>>50338003
if you aren't going to layer or highlight, it won't cost you jack dick.
>imperial primer
red
>Mephiston Red
>Carroburg Crimson
silver
>Leadbelcher
>nuln oil
brown
>Rhinox Hide
>either nuln oil or agrax earthshade
white
>ceramite white (will look pretty bad without highlighting)
flesh
>Bugman's Glow
>reikland fleshshade
and that should be it. you can use bugmans with agrax for purity seal stuff or lighter brown as well.

>>50337936
That model looks ace, my recommendations for improvements are work on the plasma barrel drill holes, and script for the scrolls.

>>50338169
Model/Plastic cement is not a glue, and you're right, it does melt the plastic parts together. However, because of that, if you fuck up at all you generally have to saw something off. Or if you're lucky and it snaps at the bonding points, you still have to file both faces down smooth so you can try again.(generally you're more likely to break the part than to break at the bond.)

I'm not a huge fan of plastic cement for minis, and even more suggest against its use for beginners. At best, you get a result that's basically the same. The inability to easily correct mistakes or to easily recycle parts by throwing the mini in the freezer for a couple nights just isn't worth it for me.

>>50338172
Gorilla Glue may cost less than citidel shit, but not less than the $1 price of two tubes of superglue brand sg gel. Gorilla Glue is also notorious for having a bad shelf life after being opened.

>>50338172
Okay, thanks. I'll get some plastic glue cause it'll be worth it in the end.

>>50338176
Yer doing Emperor's work, there mate.

>>50338360
Isn't drilling the holes on plasma weapons a misconception? Because in-lore the actual firing opening is the size of a pinhead?

>>50338394
drilling one bigger hole in the top barrel is fine (since its like a satellite dish) but the bottom area shouldn't have a hole drilled on it. the holes on his look mismatched, though.

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Finished this guy, first time trying to do this kind of highlighting technique so I would love some feed back. Will post my last model I did before just as a reference for the difference in the layers.

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>>50338453
And here is the last one. Highlights are a lot sharper though as another anon said not subtle at all.

>>50334364
clean up the golden areas and you're good

>>50338453
looks good, but I feel like theres too much blood on the chains, so it makes it seem like they're simply painted red at a glance.

>>50338488
I see that, I figured seeing as how fast the teeth spin on these swords that it would only make sense if blood was on every tooth.

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>>50338176
To have some contrast, I'm thinking Orcs should look something like pic. I already have a bunch of Necron paints so I'm thinking Orcs like this would be even cheaper.

>>50338503
yea, that looks nice. I'm not saying you should change it, it's just my observation~
>>50338512
I don't have much experience painting with greens...
>imperial primer
brown will be same as brown from other dudes
>black
abaddon black? maybe with some nuln oil over it so it doesn't look as bland.
chain will be the same as silver from other dudes.
green..
>Caliban Green
>Biel-Tan Green (optional? never painted easy green so I dont know how it will look)
ork skin
>Waaagh! Flesh
>Biel-Tan Green

>>50330544

Signed up! How many people ya got?

Should the gift be Christmas themed or anything /tg/wip/ ?

Just a quick question for y'all. I have a slight obssession with Bronze, and I had been using Dwarf Bronze (Now Hashut Copper) for it, but I find after washing it becomes more of a, well, copper colour. Its a nice copper, and the ink really seems to give it a beaten affect, but I'm wondering what would be a better colour for bronze.

>>50339071
I'd like to know the same thing. How should I go about painting black-bronze vs polished bronze?

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I have since added some flock and making a pool of blood/sewage leaking from the pipe.
The fan kinda bothers me, though.
The Patriarchy is gonna finger yo butt

>>50339673
Did you wash the white coat? I really like the way it looks.

>>50339738
Mostly. Prime corax, base pallid wych flesh, full wash of nuln oil, then a light drybrush with white scar to reveal the raised areas before going back and edge highlighting the stronger ridges with more white scar.
Not the best method to make white, there are them tutorials around, but for organics and dirty white armor I find this method works for me.

>>50339673
Looks really good anon, sewage will look nice on that base as it looks pretty boring right now. Not sure how to deal with that fan that does not involve having to drill it out.

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looking to replace an axe with a sword, but I am not sure I like the options I have available. Anyone know of a good sword bit that would work here? Otherwise I can try some major surgery on the grey knight sword I guess

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A severely damaged Leman Russ with all the weaponry destroyed.

In place of the turret, there's a Biovore sitting on what is essentially a dog bed.

Cultists are on top of the tank praying to/protecting said Biovore.

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>>50339979
>Anyone know of a good sword bit that would work here?

Chief Librarian Mephiston of the Blood Angels has a left-handed force sword that is a separate bit. I think I have half-a-dozen of them in my bitz box.

What brush sizes/materials should I have and how can I help them keep their shape?

Is there anyone here in this thread that's pretty much forced to handbrush-on primer? I want to know how it went for you folks, if ever?

>>50340618
I am because it's <10C here and rattlecan primers don't like cold.

I hate how slow it is for batch painting, but you do benefit from control and it really only takes one pass.

>>50340618
I use gesso myself, but I goes on pretty well with little thinning needed and the results are pretty decent. I'll try and throw up a few models ive painted using gesso tomorrow if I get time.

>>50340618

I'd also really like some recommendations for this. With Canadian winter here, it's going to be too cold to prime until at least April.

>>50340644
What's your technique? It took me like 50 layers to properly prime pitch black plastic with thinned layers of Stynylrez.

Do you like, dab repeatedly in a pattern and let the droplets touch and level out? (I can't find the video)

>>50340657
I just prime In my basecoat and open a window after

>>50340717
I use the GW brush primer because I'm a sucker.

Only buy it to see what the consistency is, because the pots are way too small for the price, but otherwise you don't have to thin at all. Just brush it on till it's a fairly even, charcoal colored coat.

Is priming in black an option to make white robes work? Going to use the "work my way up the color palette starting with grey and Nuln Oil" technique.

>>50340644
>>50340657
>>50340748

My test piece was pitch black bare plastic from some other model kit. Do you do it like this guy?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRiyJiiz6Lw

I've had poor results trying to thin primer down and keep it self-levelling by adding medium. Still takes a lot more layers when thinned with water though. More to do with coverage and hiding the brush strokes.

>>50340520
pls respond. I need more value than the GW brushes and I want to know what's up.

>>50328200
What is the difference between these paints and just mixing regular paints?

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>>50340751
As someone who paints a lot of white: Yes.
However, in my opinion, it's a bitch and a half so I prefer white/grey over black for it

>>50340748
I'm using Badger Stynylrez primer. Really, really HUGE bottle for about $9ish.

>>50340812
It'll be robes, so lots of darker crevices anyway, no need to be as evenly white and clean on those (especially since it's AdMech stuff).

>>50338453
This guy here. Also was meaning to ask, if grey works as a good highlight on black armor. I was considering trying out some blue tones instead.

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>>50340872
Well, since you're so set on it and black is better for metal, then go for it. Start with a grey, build to a white, then wash once or twice and build back up the white until satisfied. Keep it thin, as usual. White argues.
Update on my end. Went in with blood/sweage mix for my Patriarch base. I'll probably add another layer of nurgles rot to bring up the green in the blood, but otherwise I kinda like it.
Later on I might add a corpse. Have it look like someone slammed into the fan on the pipe.

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I'll be damned; this thing actually works pretty good

>>50341372
>I'll be damned; this metal stick works JUST like a metal stick!

>>50341390
it's a pretty thick metal stick with a nice grip though

worth 17 USD? That's the real question, but I think it does a better job than the back of a razor blade.

If it were 8-9 USD I would say it is worth it for sure

>>50341423
I've just used the back of the knife blade on my multi-tool for scraping.

That said I also use the knife for shaving off sprue bits and cut a piece of my finger off yesterday.

Fucking stings.

>>50341372
The citadel tools and paint brushes aren't awful, they're just overpriced like heck.

>>50341458
I used to use the back of the knife blade and some files, but wanted to try using a heavier tool for it. Mold lines are something I usually struggle with - I'll go at them and it will look smooth right up until I put paint on.

I'd heard good things about the mold line remover despite the price. At first I thought there was no way it would be good, until I saw more and more positive reviews.

I'm sure there is a cheaper version of the tool out there from another manufacturer, but initial impressions are at least that the tool seems very good at what it does

>>50341506
for the most part it seems that way.

>>50337766
>>50338059

You can use agrax over flesh (as long as you dont pool it, just a thin even coat) and red, save money on giant vats of washes. Cant do it on silver unless you want it to look rusty/dirty though, but thinned black paint will work

You can also use nuln oil on red instead of carroburg crimson, which is a fairly unnecessary wash except for certain very specific projects

You can skip varnish too

I would say
>mephiston red
>leadbelcher
>runefang steel
>bugman's glow
>cadian fleshtone
>skull white
>steel legion drab
>agrax earthshade

Use a black spray primer (krylon matte black works fine, you dont need gw primer), block in bugmans glow for the skin, mephiston red for the red and also the brown, agrax all over it, block in leadbelcher for the silver once the wash is dry.

Paint steel legion drab over the leather parts (which you painted red, mephiston as a base will cover the black easier than steel legion would, and steel legion will look fine over red)

Paint cadian fleshtone over the skin parts, try to leave some of the darker color showing in the recesses. Paint mephiston over the red parts, and also try to leave the darker bits showing. Paint the white stripes on over the red (will require quite a few layers), paint runefang over the metal bits, trying to leave some leadbelcher showing in the recesses (edge highlights over leadbelcher would be best, if you can figure out how to do that)

Throughout, thin down your paints (if you see brushstrokes, its too thick) and do multiple thin coats until the basecoat doesnt show through.

This wont look as good as if you put the effort into layering and highlighting properly, and bought more paints, but it will look far better than drybrushing which is a method that seems easy but is actually very difficult not to get an ugly result with (hence lots of people use it and it often looks shit)

>>50341702

For the orc team, at a bare minimum youll want two colours for the green flesh (in addition to the paints listed above), waaagh flesh and warboss green. You can use agrax to wash this, if you want to be cheap, or spring for the biel tan shade.

Green skin, leadbelcher metal, red cloth, brown leather, some of the armour plates can be red too, and you can agrax earthshade over the lot (including the silver, since orcs would have dirtier/oily metal gear). For teeth and claws, first steel legion, then skull white on the points

It should be much easier to leave some of the dark green showing in the recesses for orcs, since they are larger than the humams and have more exagerated musculature and features.

You can also leave off the second layer of mephiston, to make the red cloth of the orcs look darker/dirtier than the humans, and make them look less similar

>>50341702
>>50341735

Here's a tutorial for skaven, but the same principles apply — Orcs, as barbaric monster-types are very well-suited to quick and dirty paint-schemes with an all-over Agrax wash.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vp_vdo0AFhI&index=35&list=PLEaPE4sLDA7s-26V0v6SepDFiznb3y6hx

Here's a tutorial for doing orc skin *properly*, you probably wont want to go this far with it but at least you'll have a better idea of the end goal

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFpqxHFMZXs&index=61&list=PLEaPE4sLDA7s-26V0v6SepDFiznb3y6hx

>>50336905

And for both you and bloodbowl man, here's an in-depth human flesh tutorial, you can leave off the edge-highlighting of musculature on smaller minis unless you're up to it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsdjBtZJJ2k&index=71&list=PLEaPE4sLDA7s-26V0v6SepDFiznb3y6hx

For paler skin:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTIO3eRD81Y&index=10&list=PLEaPE4sLDA7ucJ0dkiVZSW6ghZUNGFHIW

For negroes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ukcg7vS-GTE&index=17&list=PLEaPE4sLDA7ucJ0dkiVZSW6ghZUNGFHIW

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>>50341423
>it's a pretty thick metal stick with a nice grip though
>worth 17 USD? That's the real question, but I think it does a better job than the back of a razor blade.
>If it were 8-9 USD I would say it is worth it for sure

It's great, innit? Yeah, it could stand to be a bit cheaper. You only have to buy it once, though.

>>50341458
>That said I also use the knife for shaving off sprue bits and cut a piece of my finger off yesterday.

That's one of the chief features of the Citadel mold line remover: it does what it does without having a really sharp edge or point. You won't impale yourself if you drop it.

>>50341573
>I'm sure there is a cheaper version of the tool out there from another manufacturer, but initial impressions are at least that the tool seems very good at what it does

Micro Mark makes one (c.f. "Seam Scraper") that occasionally goes on sale for $10.00, but the shipping will usually come back and bite you in the ass. Better order multiple things to make it worthwhile.

>>50331128

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Haypxj24_Uw

Awesome

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Death Cult of Krieg?

>>50342762
...yes, the equator is lovely this time of year.

>>50340796
I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/AIT-Handmade-Shedding-Breaking-Allowing/dp/B00NI39OSU/

and these:

https://www.amazon.com/AIT-Brushes-Handmade-Superior-Watercolors/dp/B010KM5KPM/

And keep 'em clean with this:

https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM/

Those two sets will give you good detail and base brushes, and the brush cleaner will help keep them from fraying. There are better brushes out there, but these should be pretty good for the price.

>>50342762
The resin they sent you must have been very warped, it appears that your model is entirely sideways!
That said, you painted it alright so far. I really like the colors.

Is there a program I can use to test out color schemes for armies? I don't want to have to use/ buy more paint just for experimentation.

>>50343483
Space Marines:
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/smpbeta.php

Chaos Space Marines:
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/csmp.php

Tau:
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/fwp.php

Sisters:
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/sisterp.php

IG:
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/igpbeta2.php

That's all I could find with a cursory google.

>>50343592
Thanks. My google-fu is weak.

>>50343604
"Paint scheme generator" appear to be the magic words.

>>50343483
you can also use https://bitbucket.org/chaptergenerator/chaptergenerator/downloads
more pixely, but more options. theres an english option on startup, since its normally in russian.

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Working on my "imitate GW with out looking to shitty" paintstyle.

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Following up on:
>>50327348
>>50327068

I did a once over with some Agrax Earthshade, and think it really brought out the effect I wanted. I really need to invest more in washes, apparently.

>>50338779
Hey Anon, thanks for participating.
So far we are around 40 people.

Gift whatever you want as long as its /tg/ and /WIP/ related. Put in a nice christmas card too if you want.

>>50340748
Get Vallejo Surface primer if you want to stick to brush on primer. You get 200ml for like 10€.

>>50341805
Thank you for all of this, Anon. I'll post results once I get the game and paint it up.

>>50331128
That fucking guitar-wielding Eidolon, cheers big ears

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>>50342762

>>50343974
If you're happy with it I suppose that's what matters but red, blue, green, white, black, and yellow? You used far too many bold colors. it look garish af

>>50339999
It's genestealer cults not biovore cults.
It's in the name.
But since you got quads you can do what you like.

>>50345585
>It's genestealer cults not biovore cults.
>It's in the name.

They worship Tyranids you sperg.

>>50346629
But they are only a factor before the hivefleet arrives.

>get close to finish
>start rushing

Every time. Anyone else similarly afflicted?

>>50346736
Nah.
For me it's more like

>have a grand idea
>make plans and buy stuff
>never start hobbying
>have another idea
etc.

>>50343714

Well, so far you're doing something!

>>50346736

Only during sex.

>>50346847
>having sex
That's time wasted finishing your backlog.

I know damn well that you have some unassembled, unpainted models left that need to be finished up, anon.

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Working on my wraithknight that I almost never play due to guilt. Yeah I know all the bumps don't have to be gems. Need to increase the contrast on the blue gems, go blacker towards the top so the shine pops more.

>>50346938
Like what you did with the helmet.
The green armor all over lacks a bit of depth though.
In particular around the soft part on the elbow and the hands this seems most noticeable to me.
Aside from that, pretty good. I like the lightning effect on the shield. Looks groovy.

>>50346867

Ha, do you honestly think I'd waste my time seducing someone if it wasn't with the intention of reducing my backlog? Art school graduates son, they love anything creative and you don't really have to teach them what to do.

I measure my backlog in cubic meters these days. I'm at around 4, the boxes don't all fit together perfectly.

>>50346984
Thanks, i might go in with some ink in the recesses of the armor and try for that depth

>>50346938

I have no idea why people who don't like gems would bother with craftworld eldar, the gem based race. Their souls live in crystals and they literally shit crystals. It's the equivalent of a feminist playing black templars or a hippy playing dark eldar haemonculi covens

Gems look great, keep it up!

>>50347061
>It's the equivalent of a feminist playing black templars
Cause they like to burn witches?

>>50346650
Before and during.

Literally in the GSC codex fluff (paraphrasing): Tyranids recognize GSC as tools, fight alongside them until all the regular opposition is out of the way, then eat the GSC last.

>>50346745
This