WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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>>50304860
>>50309394
>>50309735
I'll post a few pics of my nids for anon.
My original question for you guys was what do you think of the prototype miniature for my new Genestealer Cults project. I'll probably field them together with my Tyranids, so I'm hoping for comments with that in mind. Thanks again!

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>>50309982
Aaaand the Norn Queen with a few Raveners.

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>>50302446 here

Finished with the model. I can never get the winged I on the shoulders to look good.

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>>50310057

And the back

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Tried kitbashing for the first time. Didn't have any green stuff, but was able to substitute with glue and scrap resin.

Hoping to use it as a Herald of Khorne in an upcoming HoR Killteam campaign. Think it came out well?

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This is going to be my WIP project tonight, ladz. Wish me luck!

>>50310057
>Finished
Arguable

>>50310172
That's pretty awesome considering your budget green stuff.
No seriously, it looks brilliant! Paint that shit up and please give it an attention grabbing base.

>>50310196

I don't have supplies to do the actual base atm.

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Made some more progress, i'm pretty happy with how beat up looking this thing is.
I'm not sure about what colours to paint the missiles though, maybe red? Also got to paint the bits on the end of the wings, i'll probably do them gunmetal and rust, they'll be covered by engines anyway so they won't be that noticeable.

>>50310206
Thanks man! I was worried it was gonna be ugly, since its only the 12th model I've ever made (other are a box of Bloodletters and the Daemon Prince I got the arms from).

I think I might have a few leftover bitz to make a cool base, but I'm not 100% certain on that. I was thinking that, as a low cost solution, I'd just paint a summoning-circle onto the base.

>>50310235
I think it looks cool with how beat up it is; goes well with the rust.
Red is probably a good colour to paint the missiles, but make them a deep red/burgundy, kinda like the stripes below the skull insignia. If you look at the Millitarum Tempestus paint scheme, that's basically the colour of red you're looking for.

>>50310303
Dude! You can just clip your emptied sprue frames into random debris or even build something out of them to use in the base. Get some fine & coarse sand from outdoors. Also use cork and small rocks and twigs to add more substance on your bases. Easy and doesn't cost you much.
For the Herald I could suggest using cork and maybe rocks to make him a bit elevated, so he'll be a small centerpiece among your basic demons.

>>50310303
>>50310441
More importantly...! Clean those mold lines and the flashes left over from the sprue. On the pointy hand on the side, you can see the line it's glued together from. Use a bit of glue to smoothen that up. Normally I'd use liquid green stuff, but since I doubt you have it, just use glue. Works well enough!

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>>50310441
He's already glued to a small base, but I was thinking that, since I have lots of pic related hanging around, I could magnetize him to a larger artistic base that I could make all pretty and stuff.

>>50310519
Thanks for the tip. I was trying to get rid of the mould lines, but wasn't sure what to do with the 'creases.'

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Okay, starting on my Mechanicus army this week, want to do them completely properly with everything magnetized and decent looking bases.

First up, apart from the europe/UK websites for buying magnets, is there a decent germany-based site to not have to pay several times the magnets' price in shipping?

Secondly, did anyone ever magnetize one of these pretty bastards? What kind of magnet size would be appropriate for the tiny-ass Phosphor Serpenta arm (and other body parts of that tinyness)?

Last but certainly not least: tech-erection hat or edgy, mysterious hood?

>>50310603
Oh right, almost forgot: what kind of glue is good to use for glueing 'sand'/gras on a base?

>>50310576
Brilliant idea!

Is the Herald supposed to be on a square small base?

>>50310638
white/PVA glue for the sand and then super glue for grass/flock

>>50310638
Sand looks really bad - compared to the model it looks more like large gravel

Either CA glue (aka super glue) or PVA glues (aka white glue) are good for basing, but PVA glue has a tendency to be really weak later.

>>50310673
>white/PVA glue for the sand
>wanting the sand to slide off the base later

>>50310681
that's how I've been basing my models for the last decade and i've never had a problem with it.

>>50310638
That milky wood glue for sand and rocks and cork. I think for grass flock aswell. Normal hobby glue for tufts, metal, and plastic.

>>50310705
you should step up your basing game

baking soda with CA glue on a base looks really good, and much better than sand

>>50310705
Same.

>>50310661
His body's from a Vargheist, which come on 40mm square bases. However, I'm proxying him as a Herald (which use 25mm bases).

I'm not sure what the rules say about converting models (I.E. would I be allowed to use a herlad on a 40mm base), so I erred on the side of caution and gave him a 25mm base.

>>50310603
If you go with hood, you won't need to paint the small portions of exposed skin on the erection-head

Do any of you guys ever go back and revisit some of your older models that you still play with to pretty them up to your current painting standard? Thinking of doing that to get the "painting skill inconsistency" out of my army, at least a bit.

>>50310732
AoS is in a weird place right now when it comes to bases since a lot of old stuff is still on squares. If you gave him a round base nobody would question, especially since rounds look better.

>>50310776
>AoS
HA! No.
Using this for 40K

>>50310732
Usually nobody cares what size base you use. Especially for characters and stuff.

>>50310776
What he said.

>>50310831
Wasn't there originally this odd situation in AoS where you could make a model invincible to melee by making the base big enough to not allow smaller units to reach the model itself with their arms?

>>50310811
If a 25 base is too small to balance well, try a 30 base that marines now use.

>>50310871
I was able to weigh him down with a shekel I glued under his base. He's plenty balanced, the only problem is its a pain in the ass to get anything in bast-to-base with him.

>>50310811
>squares in 40k ever
ew no

40k is generally "use whatever you like but don't cheese shit." As long as the base is visually the right size for the model, nobody will care.

>>50310864
depends on how you read the rules, but nobody actually has ever tried to do that because clearly it is stupid.

I'm looking for small, cutsie bat wings to put on a 28mm gal's back.

The three bat kits GW produces are generally not fitting for salvaging, besides being way over priced they're bad sculpts.

>>50309982
I'm a fan.

>>50310896
I know for a fact that you can use square bases for daemons, I just wasn't sure of its size.

>>50310923
If you are american you can probably get some bat/demon wings from reaper.

If you are in europe/uk you can get them from Hasslefree. Imogen's wings

You could try to ebay some wings from a dark eldar jump troop model too.

>>50310931
maybe you can, but they look so bad

why would you want to

>>50311044
>but they look so bad
you take that back

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>>50311077
never

they look terrible and you know it

>>50310811
lol round bases then! Give him a 35mm or something!

>>50311206
I don't know what you're talking about, that shit looks cool AF. It'd be ruined by round bases; you wouldn't be able to get battle lines like that.

>>50309800
Im back from a long hiatus from fantasy. Are ogres still viable? I have a starter box from way back when that I'm thinking about starting on.

>oh yeah I'll do a rust theme because these guys have been in a jungle for ages!
>rust looks awful

Welp, looks like it's back to clean design.

>try to find 3mm hand drill on amazon
>all pin vices made for 2mm
Ugh.

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Thoughts? It's the first mini I've ever painted, I've got another 17 of these guys to get through.

>>50311417
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Quality-Brass-Pin-Vise/dp/B0082EQXLG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1398185458&sr=8-6&keywords=pin+vise

All you had to do was ask

>>50311464
The pink looks a little shit, but besides that, it looks very good.

>>50311326
Oh no.. Somebody's got to tell him.

>>50311473
>no international shipping
I hate living in such a hillybilly backwater country such as Germany.

The only 3mm pin vises shipping here are some really cheap and sketchy looking chinese things.

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>>50309800
So, I want to improve the main body of my Tyrannocyst a bit so it isn't just a solid blob of black. I want to add some green to it to give it a sickly feeling.

Would it be better if I used a green wash, or dry brush a layer on to the veiny areas? I don't want to do solid colors cause it looks unnatural.

>>50311586
I'd probably do a combination of dry brushing it with a beige tone and then washing with green over it.

Never painted 'Nids, but I feel like that might work. Should give it a "toxic flesh"-y kind of look, shouldn't it?

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My first Tau model. Figured I'd get a suit just to break of the routine of Necrons.

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>>50311742

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>>50311742
>>50311759
You know, the way Tau armor is so cleanly segmented makes it seem like they're easy to paint.

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>>50309800
Begun painting my House Vyronii Knight. Pretty happy with this metallic green.

>>50312090
nice metallic tint, how did you do it?

>>50311553
Should I tell him, or will you?

>>50311806
and yet 70% of tau armies are grey tides

>>50312115
Army Painter Gunmetal spray, Tamiya Clear Green and then AP Anti-shine bottle varnish.

I did rush it a bit, as I should've applied some highlights to the steel first, but the crotchplate will be mostly in shadow anyway.

>>50312201
What's a good way to incorporate blue and red into a Tau color scheme without having it blend in with their skin/look like an American flag?

>>50312193
I'll break the news..

.>>50311326
A thing happened with WFB. In its place is a new game, called "Age of Sigmar"

The rules are 100% free on GW's site and you can still use all of your old models.

>>50312233
dark red armor plates with extreme red highlights
gunmetal blue metal pits, or navy blue pants.
paint there skin more of an ashen grey than a bright blue.

>>50312248
The rules are free, but don't use them.

>>50312233
I accidentally did make mine look like an American flag.

My color scheme has since changed *after* I got five Fire Warriors, an Ethereal, and two Crisis Suits in that scheme, including some rusty ones. It actually doesn't look bad.

>>50311326
>>50311553
>>50312193
>>50312248
>>50312286
Not really a /wip/ topic. Drop by the AoS general instead.

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>>50312248
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

Why the fuck did they change it?

>>50312322
Because fags like you stopped buying their models, so they killed the world, squatted the Tomb Kings, and made everything play like 40K but worse.

>>50312356
How is it my fault GW is retarded?

>>50312233
Purple.

>>50312286
>e]
>>50312318
>>50312322
>>50312356
>>50312401
please take the funposting to the wfb or aos generals

>>50310190

Post results, pls.

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>>50312401
Its not, but that was GW's reason behind it.
Also, Bretonia got squatted too

>>50312420
pic

>>50312420
nofunallowed.jpg

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>>50312434
>Post results, pls.

I'm going to try the Alumilite instead of Micro-Mark 1-to-1. It's supposed to be tougher, and there are some tuck-ups on Johnny that will cause a weaker mold to tear. Alumilite takes 48 hours for a full cure, though (as opposed to 4 hours for 1-to-1), and I'll be making a two-part mold, so it will take much longer even if I don't screw it up. Also, I don't know how the new rubber will deal with the heat of molten metal.

We'll see how this turns out. Expect a full report by the end of the week.

>>50312581
Are there any pics of people desperately trying to use modern pro painting skills on RT models?

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Think she is nearing completion. Anything super terrible that I should fix? She is a nasty super old swamp hag.

>>50312581

Good luck, Anon. I am excited to see the results.

>>50312634
Too slow anon :^)

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>>50312674

>>50312633
We know your secret, Australian shame.

The miniature looks pretty nice. Maybe a little more highlighting on the hood and dildo / wand?

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>>50312599
>Are there any pics of people desperately trying to use modern pro painting skills on RT models?

Bobby Wong painted these ladz. The model on the left is a First Edition Mk VI Space Marine with a lascannon.

>>50312717
>Don't talk to me or my Neophyte ever again

>>50312717
>painting black stripes on the legs because there isn't any underarmor on the old RT models

that reminds me that I should sell the sprues of RT beakies I have. I wonder how much they are worth

>>50312701
It's supposed to be a sewing dildo but I really was at a loss for what color to make it so I splashed some metalics on it an called it a day. Do you think I should change it to a different color?

>>50312824
holy shit I am sitting on like 150 bucks

do people really pay that much for those shitty old models?

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>>50312599

This is another Wong piece. Specifically, "Captain" (070145/10).

>>50312717
That lascannon looks like it has erectile dysfunction

>>50312322
> using a rage face
You really have been gone long haven't you

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>>50312717

>shoulder fire multi-melta

Is that normal? I'm so used to pic related, that it didn't occur to me that it would be fired any other way.

>>50312941
no it isn't normal anymore

In the olden days, every weapon was shoulderfired.

I am surprised there aren't underslung missile launchers.

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>>50313004

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>>50310057

Sister!

I'll take the chance asking a quick question.
I just bought the Renegade boxed games(aka 2 imperial-knights-at-the-cost-of-one)but I only got one sprue with the new version pieces, like the thunderstrike gauntlet and carapace mounted weapons. Is that normal or was I supposed to get 2? having only all of the option for one model sucks, since I wanted to paint the 2 knights differently...

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>>50313207

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>>50313226

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>>50313237

Fuck me sideways, I didn't take a picture of blondie. Will rectify that next killteam game.

>>50313226
>heavily armored rhinos
they always look so good

why do they look so good

What does Vallejo ink do?

just realized I bought it instead of paint

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>>50313266

I don't have enough pictures of my shit to play like that besides the one I've posted a few times already (this one), and I'm afraid they're not very good.

Part of the reason you went with a new one.

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>>50313357

Don't tell anyone, but...

It's actually a Vindicator.

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>>50313222
>I just bought the Renegade boxed games(aka 2 imperial-knights-at-the-cost-of-one)but I only got one sprue with the new version pieces, like the thunderstrike gauntlet and carapace mounted weapons. Is that normal

Yes.

>or was I supposed to get 2?

Nope.

>having only all of the option for one model sucks, since I wanted to paint the 2 knights differently...

The arm weapons replace a choice for the matching arm; Avenger cannon replaces the battlecannon or thermal cannon, and Thunderstrikle Gauntlet replaces the giant chainsword. You still need da shoulder bitz, so you're still limited to four arms unless you get really clever with magnetizing. Also, the Gauntlet only works on the left arm - keep that in mind.

As for the carapace weapons... you get only one launcher housing, so that can be either the missiles or the rockets depending on which front plate you attach to it (probably the easiest weapon choice to magnetize). The other Knight can have the Icarus Autocannons.

>>50313389

The front glacis and tread guards are literally glistening with the amount of glue you slathered on there. For what purpose?

>>50313389
I can't tell you how tempted I am to buy a vindicator and magnetize the front cannon and scoopy thing

>>50313266
>189
In the service of heaven?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPyKWVu5rEA

>>50313431

The vindicator front plate has a giant T-shaped hole in the front for the cannon. I cut the rhino front so it'd fit inside and despite two snug dry-fitted attempts I had to fight with it to get it in when I actually applied the glue.

Left a bunch of nasty melted plastic fingerprints all over it that I had to smooth out.

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>>50313004
>In the olden days, every weapon was shoulderfired.

I painted these ladz in 2014... but yeah, they are old models.

>>50313418
>the same heat effect on the assault cannon and the flamer AND the battle cannon
?

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>>50312941
>Is that normal? I'm so used to pic related, that it didn't occur to me that it would be fired any other way.

Here, Kim Syberg's Long Fangs include a shoulder-fired multi-melta, but it's obviously converted from the plasma cannon of that era (Second Edition).

What's a good brand for beginner brushes?

Also, fucking magnets, where do I actually buy them? Amazon wants an arm and a leg and Home Depot didn't carry anything of reasonable size

>>50309982
>>50310012
Anon here. They look gr8. Thanks for posting. I liked the look of the prototype genestealer. The otherness of the skin and hidden eyes really works for the fluff, and I really like the green light effect on the left shoulder.

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>>50312941

Ironically, only the Orks got a proppa Second Edition over-the-shoulder multimelta (pic related). This was back when Ork weapons - hell, *everyone's* weapons - were often the equivalent of someone else's.

In First Edition, all the armies with over-the-shoulder multimeltas got the same bit, so Squats, Space Marines, Orks, and Imperial Guard came with it.Some of the early Mk VI beekees that are single-piece castings also have multimeltas, and there was even one that had his mounted on a tripod!

>>50312233
>Not wanting American Tau spreading their Greater Good and running around in mechs

Wow, what kind of person are you?

So, I just learned why you shouldn't eat and work on models at the same time.

On an unrelated note, what are the dangers of accidentally eating a bit of dried super-glue?

>>50313944
Nothing unless you eat a bunch of it

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>>50313863
the feel

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What is an example of proper ventilation? A fan blowing air out the window?

Also,
>Mfw I look at how expensive PP and GW brushes are

Where else can I turn?

>>50314222

if you think those are expensive I have bad news for you...

>>50313418
thanks a lot m8, that clarifies a lot.
I still find it odd they didn't specify it in the box or anywhere in the instruction manual.

>>50314291
Offbrand is worse? I'm pinching pennies wherever I can. I'm buying from Chinaman, getting PP cutters, etc. It's not that I don't have the money for them, but I like to save money wherever I can.

>>50314382

The brushes of miniature companies are mostly bad, in many cases overpriced even. They're usually synthetic or from bad animal hair. They don't hold their tip, they don't hold in paint the proper way, they start dropping hair quickly etc.

For a beginner they're okay but if you're serious about painting in the long term, at some point you're gonna have to invest in kolinsky sable brush. They won't automatically turn you into a good painter but they're definitely worth the money. But since you're a beginner, I would suggest starting with the cheaper brushes first. Though you might also lose money in the long term by having to buy low quality brushes which don't last as long as a kolinsky you treated well.

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>>50314370
>I still find it odd they didn't specify it in the box or anywhere in the instruction manual.

The main body of the Knight kit didn't change from 6th Edition to 7th, but you'll notice the newer codex has a lot more options in it. So, if you buy the Knight Paladin model, all you get is the main Knight body with no upgrade sprue. Even though this kit will build either the Errant or Paladin models, and by the codex, both of those Knights may take carapace weapons, you won't get the bitz for them.

If you want *that*, you need to purchase the Knight Warden kit. It comes with the exact same sprues as the Paladin/Errant kit, *PLUS* it comes with the same upgrade sprue that you got in your Renegade box. With this kit, you can build any of the loyal Knight variants in the codex and have your choice of carapace weapons. I should also mention this is the only way to replace a heavy stubber with a meltagun barring a conversion.

>>50314382
>Offbrand is worse? I'm pinching pennies wherever I can.

I think he means if you want nice brushes (Winsor & Newton Series 7 Sable, for example), it will cost you even more than Citadel, if you can believe that.

I buy all my brushes at Michaels with 40-50% off coupons - usually one brush at a time - and they don't last nearly as long as the more expensive ones, but that also means you don't have to feel so bad when you wreck 'em.

>>50314444
>I think he means if you want nice brushes (Winsor & Newton Series 7 Sable, for example), it will cost you even more than Citadel, if you can believe that.
they are similarly priced to the Citadel "Artificer" brushes which are also sable

in fact, the two are so similar in price, appearance, and quality that there is a rumor that GW actually contracts out manufacturing of the Artificer brushes to Windsor & Newton.

Out of curiosity, how long will Citadel paints take to expire? Is it a case of shaking them once a week or so to keep them going?

I want to buy one of the bundles, but there'd be a few colours I never/rarely use.

>>50314430
Not him, but I'm a beginner and I don't know how to treat that kolinsky well.

So who actually makes cheap ones that I can learn with? Unless I really should just get a set of GW, use them until they're dead and then replace them with good quality.

>>50314504
gw, army painter, any normal brush works for a beginner.

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>>50314504
whichever brand really

get yourself a jar of this stuff though. It will keep your brushes happy for a long time. Since you are only washing miniature painting brushes, a single jar should last you years.

>tfw i am the king of losing tiny as fuck bits like the deathwatch ammo packs
IT KEEPS HAPPENING
they somehow fall out of my finger and vanish

>>50314504
>So who actually makes cheap ones that I can learn with?

Do you have Michaels where you are? Check out Royal and Langnickel "ZEN", Winsor & Newton "Galeria", and Artist's Loft "Vienna" brushes. Michael's frequently runs 40-50% off coupons, and you buy them one at a time for a few bucks.

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Recently received a shipment of totally official meganobz.

>>50313783
man, you just don't see blending like that anymore

How do you guys pick your paints? I find it pretty easy for GW figures, but not as easy for generic ones, mostly because I have Our Lord and Savior to copy.

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>>50314983
Assemble it, Anon. I wish to see BC's wares in action.

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Also a totally official kill bursta/blasta.

Apologies for shit lighting. I'm at work and residents are asleep

>>50315013
Such tiny gubbins on these new manz. Kinda worried I'll end up like deathwatch guy

>>50315071
Wow. I never knew chinaman detail was so good. I suppose I'd just never seen one.

>>50315122
Habeeb in yourself, Anon.

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>>50315138
I was impressed as well

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>>50315071that looks great anon

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Finished this guy last night. first guy for Infinity ASA army.

>>50309982
Woah- did you buy alien flavor hormagaunts off eBay?? With shaved heads and average paint job???

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>>50315000
>>50314000
>them round trips

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Cnc me bois

>>50315807
Initially I wanted to say it looks chalky, but now I'm thinking it might be low-res on the camera. The transition from hands to weapons isn't well-defined in the paint, I'd add a bit of dark wash there to add shade, gold on the cloak and ribbon decorations looks like they could get a touch-up, otherwise looks good, considering aforementioned picture quality.

>>50312318

>I'm a gigantic NO FUN ALLOWED faggot

You must be that same aspie who bitches at people for talking about fluff or non-miniature projcets.

>>50311742

Don't forget to clean those mold lines anon

>>50315807
>>50315860
It's the camera. Look at the edges of the hair, it's all grainy and distorted. I'll bet a Leman Russ that looks fucking spiffy in person.

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My wet palette isn't good at being wet even though though parchment paper isn't waxed and talks trash on wax paper.

>>50315963
lol, subtle...

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Grabbed the 2 player starter box for Hordes today, (Trolls and Skorne) because I'm in a rut with my 40K armies and have no motivation to move on with them. I'm used to painting 40K minis, do I need to spray prime these as well, since they're single color snapfit models? (blue trolls, red skorne) Or am I supposed to just slap paint on them like some kind of savage?

> Pic is not mine, but I hope it inspires an anon to Orkify another Knight and make it as amazing as this one.

>>50314609
I go through the little jar in about six months but I am always production lining which means more thorough cleaning of brushes is required.

>>50314499
They will last for ages as long as the pot is tightly sealed (so make sure to clean the accumulated crusty shit out of the lid.

Are there better alternatives than super glue for resin models?
I tried putting together my Zardu Layak squad yesterday and boy did it suck, never had so much problems before.
I washed the resin models like I always do, I roughed up the joints but that shit would just not stick. Used little bits of green stuff along with the glue then and now I'm praying the models will not just fall apart as soon as I have painted them.

>>50313897
>Make America Good Again
Shas'o Trump 2020

>>50313821
Da Vinci Forte Basic. Dirt cheap and does the job. I recommend the size 0 for almost everything but tiny details (like eyes) or large surface basecoating (vehicle-large)

Ebay has magnets. Those from China work fine, though shipping can be slow.

>>50314370
I think it says "One Knight Paladin and one Knight Warden" somewhere. At least it did on the website.

>>50314632
Work over a large newspaper, lean far up onto the table, don't have your hands far up from the desk and keep your legs closed.

>>50316638
There are no snap-fit models in the Warmachine/Hordes line. And you need superglue, plastic doesn't work.

Of course you should prime them before painting. The dyed plastic is just for beginners so they can easily tell their models apart while being able to play within an hour rather than a week.

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Zzzaping intensifies.

>>50311759
Sk8ter boi

>>50311586
tzeentch drop pod

>>50317111
What?

>>50315973
Thanks, I'll put more work into him on my next upcoming day off.

>>50310603

Just make an order of over £80 and get free delivery from Element Games! I'm sure there are another £70 odd worth of models you want anon

>>50314499
Ive got some viable paint from when Epic was called Space Marine. Paint lasts.

>>50310190
You can do it anon!

>>50316638
You still want to prime them. They'll take paint much better that way.

>>50311556

can't you just go to your version of B&Q and get a 3mm drill bit there? and then craft yourself a small handle for it?

>>50310057

Any suggestions here? Been out of painting for quite a while.

The two things that give me the biggest trouble are whites and the bronze/gold.

On sisters in particular, the left shoulder insignia has never turned out good, especially with the white, as evident in my picture.

>>50317232
Whites and brown metallics need many layers, and a basecoat. For whites you can basecoat grey and then layer white. For gold/bronze, basecoat brown or beige.

>>50316638
Not sure what plastic type it is, but apparently it's not PVC which is awesome.
Regardless, I would prime them before painting, that'll usually be better than trying to paint directly onto the plastic.
For assembly, you may want to make sure that plastic glue works, I imagine super-glue will be the way to go.

They're nice models, but a little more involved than Snap-Fit would imply it seems, but still relatively easy.

The trouble is most Google results appear to point to the older Troll / Skorne box which was simply grey resin for the most part, the Mk3 starters are quite new.

>>50317271
It's PVC. They've just improved tge formula somewhat and added blue/red/green/etc paint rather than grey. It's still the same old terribad PVC plastic.

>>50317271
>>50317303
Which also means you Need superglue. See >>50317097

>>50317232
More layers. Make sure they're damn thin so you don't build up a texture.

>>50316638
>do I need to spray prime these as well

The only thing you'll ever not prime is clear parts that are supposed to remain clear. You know, canopies and such. Everything else you prime. The material only matters in that some stuff will demand specific primers.

>>50317232
Consider picking a different haircolor than reddish brown. It's currently blending into the armor and you don't want it potentially looking more like a helmet. A contrasting color like Light Grey, Black, Very dark brown, or blonde would probably be a better choice.

>>50315000
How does blending like that even work? It's some kind of fucking space magic to me.

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>>50317365

Normally, I do white and wanted to Mix it up. I don't know that I have the colors for blond. I can go with a Darker brown and/or try more Nul oil.

I've never been able to get black hair to look good.

>>50317335

Guess it's just more and more and more. My problem is that it ends up getting runny because it's already a runny color from GW.

>>50317251

These were my base coats. Note: The chain/symbol were originally going to be white, hence the gray base.

What are the artificer tints like?

>>50316670
>>50317175
Sorry for the late response, but thanks. I'll grab the bundle.

>>50315860
Damn. You're right on the hand. Must've missed it somehow. Thanks!
>>50316042
Thanks but it genuinely isn't that amazing. Just my phone camera, so yeah its shit. But also hides my terrible blending.

>>50316921
Get a really thin CA glue and an accelerator like zapagap.

>>50314632
Buy an apron.

Seriously.

It also collects all of the shavings.

>>50315000
I mean back in the day you had an army with 30 models.
You could afford to spent that time on them back then.

>>50313364
Its a glossy wash.

>>50313821
Online retailers stock magnets. Check fantasywelt or wayland or elementgames

>>50314370
>I still find it odd they didn't specify it in the box or anywhere in the instruction manual.

You could write GW an email and claim that the sprue is missing. They will send you a replacement.

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Finally getting back to painting my cult guys but I'm really stuck as to what colour to use for the inside of my Primus's coat. My gut says a dark red but I haven't used red much my scheme so far besides the little blasting charges everyone has on their belts and the odd detail here ant there.
Do you guys think it would look out of place, any suggestions?

>>50318680
what colour were you planning on using for the sword? maybe a contrast of that colour?

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>>50315467
Nope. They're just pretty old and made with a mentality to just get the project done. I've been playing the same nids since 4th edition. Of course adding lots of new units over the years.

>>50310929
Thanks!

>>50313847
Good to read reassuring words. Thanks! I'll go with this look- adding a bit more action to the bases.

I will try making some coarse cloth texture on Acolyte robe parts. We'll see how it goes. ":D"

>>50318680
Maybe a reddish brown? Red and brown wash?

>>50309800
does anyone have a scan of the Burning of Prospero painting guide?

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Finally got my metal Deff Dread from mail, waited a month or so. Absolutely love the model, way cooler than the new ones. Made a custom klaw for him from ork chainsaw blades. WIP

Also, show your Waaagh face!

I can't seem to get orange fatigues to work for my genestealer cult, I've followed lord Duncan's video but one thing I can think of is my test model is primed black. I'm not going for cult of the rusted claw I just want nice oranges.

>>50319160
Dude. You are posting on an image board.
So post an image. People will only be able to give you useful feedback if they can see what you are doing.

How do I make a fine sand base? Maybe using flour or baking soda?

How would I then fix that into place without falling off 10 minutes later or during painting?

>>50319186

I'm in bed next to a sleeping wife and baby I'm not risking my Sunday this early, maybe in an hour or two.

>>50319190
Chinchilla sand mixed with paint worked for me.

>>50319186

I liked his video but when it came down to color choice one thing that stuck out was fire dragon orange seemed like a weird choice to highlight trollslayer with, the colors couldn't be contrasted more jarringly

>>50319160

If you're using a black primer and trying to follow his recipe one thing that immediately jumps to mind is when you wash the jokaero orange it might turn out too dark before the trollslayer application making the contrast stark instead of blended, I did the same thing, I recommend trying the rest of your minis in grey ' f you're set on orange.

>>50318740
I was planning on being quite literal with the whole bonesword bit and making it a boney colour.

>>50318942
Sounds good.

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>>50319190
Just went ahead, covered a base in white glue and dunked it ino flour. Actually looks like I can work with this.

Not sure how well painting it will got, but should be possible with a very, very thinned down paint

>>50319518
Pancakes for breakfast?

>>50319518
>flour
do not use perishable materials for basing.
You might be able to cover it with varnish or glue if you are thorough in general it's a terrible idea though.

The best way to make a fine sand base it to use fine sand, as stupid as it might sound.
If you feel the texture isn't fine enough check out some general artists acrylic mediums, vallejo even has a dedicated sand paste product just for basing miniatures with.

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>>50317157
>What?

It looks like he's on a skateboard; the particular spelling is a reference to Avril Lavigne:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIy3n2b7V9k

Anyone have any paintbrush suggestions? Been using Masters Touch and Fine Touch brushes and I either don't know what to fucking buy or they're shit. What do fa/tg/uys prefer?

>>50319676
well, I was a fine art illustrator, so I use insanely high-end stuff: Windsor and Newton Series 7 kolinsky sable.

000 to size 2 are ok, but beyond that, expect to pay serious money for brushes.

>>50319754
W&Ns aren't that expensive on the smaller sizes, €15-20 up to a size 2 or so, once you start looking at Canvas sized brushes they get really expensive, but that size isn't needed for this hobby.

>>50319785
that's why I said up to size 2's ok.

though I do like a #4 for blocking in - holds lots of paint, but still a fine tip.

I have a W&N7 #8 that I used to use alongside a DeVilbiss airbrush. that thing is gorgeous for large fill but cost me about £80. thankfully, the quality is such, they will last a lifetime. I bought my #4 18 years ago, and its still in good enough condition that it points well.

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Here are all my brushes from top to bottom by brand:

>Privateer Press synthetic
It was okay but started to fray. I have a feeling I didn't do a good job taking care of it so maybe this isn't fair.
>Leonhardy 239 synthetics
God these are crap compared to any other size 1 brush I have. I use them for targeted washes.
>W&N S7
The best I've used so far
> Leonhardy 374
These are actually pretty good. I've abused these for years (before I learned how to take care of brushes) and they still hold their point. I do all my edge-highlighting with these two.
> Artisanat Classique and Simply Simmons
Rolling dumpster fire tier.

>>50319676
If you're willing to take care of them (and love them, and hug them) I can definitely recommend the Winsor and Newton Series 7 kolinsky sable brushes. They easily the best (but unfortunately most expensive) brushes I've ever worked with. Great tip, large reservoir. But, seriously, if you buy one of these pick up a tin of brush cleaner and conditioner (I use The Masters) to keep them clean and last longer.

>>50319785
>>50319754
I paid around $15-17 (it's been a while) for my size 1 and 2.

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How do you all simulate paint chipping/wear and tear on weapons/vehicles where there are no real life examples to follow?

>>50319868
>>50319754

Thanks anons. I've been looking at the W&N S7s for a bit now and I might just end up taking the plunge desu.

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tidying up finish basing then next 5.

What's the best way for me to paint infantry models without having to touch them?
Drilling small holes in the feet, and pinning them to corkboard? Or some modeling putty to stick them to something I can hold?

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Progress on Lorgar.

>>50319932
these are pretty good too imo

http://www.rosemaryandco.com/watercolour-brushes/pure-kolinsky-sable/pure-kolinsky-pointed

>>50319968
I just blue-tac them to old pots

>>50319979

Looking great so far, anon.

>>50319954
Looks nice! Can we get a shot of the axe from the side? I'd love to see your power field effect.

>>50319968
I blue-tac them to the the tops of various cylinders like my brush cleaner, super-glue containers, old pots, etc.

I was watching a Twitch streamer who drilled their feet and their bases and then pinned the two things together. It was interesting because like you suggested, he's able to paint the model and base without handling them, but also because it strengthened how well the model was anchored to the base.

>>50314222
Bumping my ventilation question. Thanks to everyone who answered my brush question.

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Progress on my Custodes sergeant. The head is from the Sternguard set.

I can't do gems for shit though. I feel like I should have made them purple.

>>50314430
Yeah start with a meh brush from Michaels that you buy with a "50% off one item" coupon. I guarantee you will ruin the first couple brushes you use because you managed to get paint all up in its guts (the ferrule) or left paint on the brush too long and it dried on there or you wash your brush by mashing the bristles into the bottom of your water cup or something. Once you stop fucking up your meh brushes, go get a nice kolinsky sable.

>>50314222
For regular brush painting? Open a window, don't huff the pot directly. If you're airbrushing or spray painting you need better ventilation.

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>>50320157
nothing that fancy. Temple blue, guilliman glaze and some light grey highlight.

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>>50320246
>I can't do gems for shit though. I feel like I should have made them purple.

Somewhere, I have one that shows other colours.

>>50320283
That field effect looks really good actually man. Not crazy overstated like some I've seen.

>>50319924
There are alwaya real world examples. Ladders and hatches weather the same in the 41st millennium.

Just look for real world references that are similar in shape.

>>50314222
>What is an example of proper ventilation? A fan blowing air out the window?
Ventilation of what?

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>>50320246

I'm going to be grabbing some decent brushes now that I'm getting into painting and I've learned a bit. I've got some brush cleaner but what size brushes should I order?

>>50320525
If you're just doing infantry a 0, 1, and 2 (round) will do just fine. I have a 2/0 for really fine work and a 8 (flat) for my dreadnoughts too.

Flour anon here, think I'll pass on the sand and go for ...something different?

This is after 2 layers of varnish, 2 thin layers of Imperial Primer, some molding and the first thin layer of XV88.

Probably going to add a second layer of XV88, then some Mournfang or Bestial Brown on the crevices, drybrush with Bleached Bone or Zamesi Desert and wash the whole thing with Devlan mud. Thinking it might work out.

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>>50320625
Woops, forgot image.

>>50319954
>Kawai eyes

>>50320644
/ck/ is that way

>>50320644
Delicious cookie

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>>50320625
>>50320644
>something different

C'mon, anon... I know this game is about fighting battles on far-off alien worlds in the 41st Millennium, but try to be realistic. What are the odds that any one of those planets' surface is covered in Tasty-Bite Madras Lentils?

>>50320644
What I use for in-scale sand is baking powder (also called Baking Soda by the Yanks). Cover the base in superglue and then sprinkle over the baking powder. Blow off the excess. Dries instantly and is fairly tough, looks great in-scale. Just need to prime it and base it, and then you can do whatever - I usually drybrush it because it's easy.

If you want to make it more interesting, you can add actual sand that will look like small pebbles and rocks. Flour is a bad idea, as I'm sure you'll have realised by now.

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With Forgeworld prices and all, I will try to do something my way. Thinking of having Volkite Calivers/Chargers in 30k. My thought is to convert a synaptic disintegrator into something Mars "techy".

Thoughts of my masterpiece in Paint?

>>50316106
you are wetting your brush continually right? and let both sides of the paper soak? I have the same set up but without that much leftover.

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I believe I am mostly done with this guy. comments and critique appreciated.

>>50320769
I have no idea what you are talking about but Anvil Industries do have a gun that looks in line with the new Mechanicus stuff.
Might be easier to just buy that.

I'm going to do the Dragon Blades to Blood Knights conversion as I'm on a budget. I wanted to do my vampire army with purple armour though, and I'm not sure how they would turn out without traditional blood knight red, if it would make it look 'off'. Anyone got any examples of this conversion done and painted different colours than the traditional blood red?

>>50311464
very good mane

>>50320818
you could always just put the image through photoshop or gimp, and tint the red parts purple

then post that pic for others advice.

>>50320786
A cool conversion and a good paint job too, great work, Anon.

>>50320381
Generic workspace. The OP talked about improper ventilation. Am I an idiot?

>>50320907
Ventilation is important if you're using solvents, glues, aerosol spray paint or assembling/otherwise mucking around with resin miniatures. Also if you use alcohol or enamel based paints, but those are rarely used around these parts. For these, proper ventilation is important as you can cause yourself serious injury or even death by breathing in their fumes or (somehow) ingesting them. For painting with water-based acrylics and using water or medium as a thinner, you don't need to worry about ventilation.

Another aspiring painter here. Can you use just anything for primer (e.g. Rustoleum), or do you need something like Chaos (tm) Black (tm) spray (tm)?

>>50320941
Thanks, anon. Would a fan be sufficient for gluing stuff, or should I use something more substantial?

>>50320786
Looks great! Some of the edge highlighting on the antlers and cloak is a little harsh, but that's really a very minor complaint.

>>50320960
>anything

Not really anything, but anything thats a primer for metal or plastic. You don't have to buy expensive "hobby primer"

>>50320786
Nice to see it finally painted, looks great. Love the puddle of pisspuss

>>50320786
Looks great bro. I really like how the goop is leaking off the side of the base. Also the cloak and hood are a great contrast to how dark the rest of the mini's palette is. What faction is he supposed to be? Dark Mechanicum? Scavvie?

>>50320644
Making me hungry for thin mints. There's a good chance someone might try to eat your dudes.

>>50319979
Amazing work dude

>>50319924
For the look you posted you just need several layers of nuln oil over leadbelcher, then highlight it with runefang.

>>50309982
That's an awesome looking model, the green highlight looks really good

>>50320903
>>50320973
>>50321079
>>50321084
thanks anons.

I also don't quite know what faction he belongs to, but I'm personally guessing DM or just a random mutant

>>50319016
no one likes me ;__;

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Here's like my third model I've painted so far. Things still look a little rough. Any tips would be stellar.

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I have no fucking idea what I am doing with this base.

I'll probably just leave it like this, it's for a Tech-Priest Dominus anyway, won't see a lot of the base anyway.

>>50321069
Thanks, dood

>>50321282
Anon, you burned your cookie.

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>>50321280
>Here's like my third model I've painted so far. Things still look a little rough. Any tips would be stellar.

That's a great start, anon... so much better than the third model I painted (pic related - he's in there somewhere!).

Your highlights on the red look great. What colour are you planning to do the rivets? If gold/copper/brass, then you can probably do them as-is, but if you're going to do Leadbelcher, you probably want to dot each one with black, first.

What colours did you use for the gold ornamentation?

>>50320966
An open window is sufficient for gluing things. The key is to let fresh air in to weaken the concentration of the solvent. If you're in a sealed environment then a fan won't do much other than blow the fumes around.

>>50321521
True.

But its usually enough to open your room door and window for like 10 minutes every 1-2 hours so the air can circulate. You don't have to sit there with an open window the whole time during winter.

>>50320941
Please wear a dust mask at least if you're working with resin. An open window is not enough to stop you from inhaling resin particulate and a fan is just going to made it settle as dust in the room to be breathed in later. FW resin is non-toxic but you still do not want to breath it in. Some Chinese resin is toxic and you still do not want to breath it in. FW themselves recommends taking steps to avoid inhaling resin particulate.

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just got around to taking pictures of this one-sitting ghostkeel I did yesterday. I think it mostly came out good, might go back and work on the guns some more.

>>50317062
>>50318248
These are both good ideas and will help me with my next squad. Thanks.

>>50315807
Where is the model from ?

>>50321746
silver tower

>>50320941
Can confirm, I'm working with some noxious tamiya stuff and my head ended up pounding before I remembered to open a window. The finish is gorgeous but man alcohol based paints are a hassle.

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finished a KV-47 Walker for DUST. I still need to do the base though.

>>50320771

Yea. I soaked the paper under the towels and water, and it was fine at first, but it dried out despite the water in the container.

>>50322235
>[Privyet Tovarisch intensifies]

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>>50320786
John Blanche called. He just breathed heavily into the phone for a few minutes, then the room started to quiver and sprout tiny bone-like tendrils as raving madmen filled the streets, tearing at their clothes and flesh.

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WIP, any suggestions on what color I should make this Chaos Champion's face for contrast? His armor is Khorne Red and his sword/Bloodletter head are both Mephiston Red. Suggestions for the wings would also help.

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hnnggghh

>>50322235
Damn son, that's some beautiful weathering. Got a guide to that rust anywhere?

>>50322351
before you did, your should've:
>removed mouldlines
>made sure the knight arm isn't too long as it stands now
>apply the shoulderpads before you paint, as the paint may fuck up the glues effect a bit
>remove the nub under the space-marine helmet so it looks more like an actual war-trophy, and less like an inflated bathball

and blue would be a good complementary color for the skin and wings.

>>50322782
All this anon said is correct, except the shoulder pads bit. Just scrape some paint off where you glue and you'll be golden.

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>>50322663
thanks. unfortunately I've got no guide. it's all trial and error self learned.

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>>50322327
>John Blanche called.

Underrated post!

>>50322327
I take it that is a good thing?

>>50322928
Well, if you could explain it a little, it'd be appreciated. I'm trying to do rust effects on my minis and they're turning out awful.

>>50323274
John Blanche highhandedly shaped what defines the 40k aesthetic. Making it instantly recognizable and still successful after 30 years and going.

So yes. A good thing.

Help me out guys, Im doing my first army (dark vengeance) and all of the paint is coming out looking really I dont know how to say, chalky maybe? I thinned my paints and everything but they just are not looking right.

I would have posted a pic but for some reason my phone is not uploading. I imagine this is something you have heard of before, what can I do to unfuckify my shit?

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So with all the new Thousand Sons shit, does anyone have recommendations on how to paint that color scheme?

All my other armies use a shit ton of red, so I'm used to painting with that color. But obviously the Thousand Sons differ quite a bit. I'm also quite a newbie at the hobby in general, so if you have any recommendations for specific paints to use that'd also be really appreciated.

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>>50323311
uh, I'd love to. AK interactive rust effect paint set, a sponge and an airbrush. Also washes.

do you have a pic of your rust? maybe I can give you tips?

>>50323312
>>50323274
looks like you got a date anon

>>50323443
They've just put out a few specific paint colours for them. I'm sure there will be WD articles on how to paint them too, if I were you I'd wait for the actual release to see if there's a guide somewhere.

I'm going to start on some White Scars soon. Any tips for all that white? Should I undercoat white and try to shade it, or start grey and work up?

>>50323492
Basecoat off-white, shade the recesses, cleanup, highlight white. Just wait a minute, I'm sure somebody will post the usual picture on how to paint white power armour for you.

>>50323513
First time using Vallejo paints, after using Citadel for sometime. Why are they so much better then the shit GW spits out? Like fuck I can just pix colors to make highlights instead of buying "layer" paint.

>>50323492
Duncan's tutorial on HH World Eaters won't be a million miles away.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veLfxJmIzyw

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>>50323447
>Ausf. F StuG
>Super Pershing

>>50321770
Thanks. With some conversions, it have potential for an harlequin shadowseer.

>>50323560
gw also sells the model separately, but you can likely get the model cheaper on ebay

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/mistweaver-saih

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>>50319016
>that colour scheme

It looks fucking beautiful m8. The colours, stripes, metallics, the battle damage. You managed to convey all of the orkiness while keeping the paintjob nice and clean.

As a fellow ork player, I love it! A 9/10 from me, cuz you still need to give him a propa base. :D

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>>50323492
Prime white, layer all over it with Ulthuan Gray, edge highlight with White Scar. This is how based Duncan suggests doing white armour.

The other option is to base Rakarth Flesh, layer all over with Pallid Wych Flesh, and then highlight with White Scar. This is how an old GW tutorial suggests doing white for Blood Angel Apothecaries. However I think that because the Pallid Wych Flesh has a very slight pink to it, it ties into Blood Angels' red a bit better.

>>50323652
Derp, meant to mention that solid Ulthuan Gray with a White Scar highlight is how I did the marble in the attached picture too.

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>>50323492
>I'm going to start on some White Scars soon. Any tips for all that white? Should I undercoat white and try to shade it, or start grey and work up?

Obligatory.

>>50312899
whats wrong with that bolter?

>>50323840
Nothing. It's an ye olde bolter/bolt pistol.

>>50322928
Looks really cool.
I'm usually not a fan of heavy rust on military vehicles but for Orks and Soviets it kinda works.

>>50323553
Thats a regular Pershing.

>>50323447
Whats included in that set? Pigments? Or is it paint?

>>50324146
Is this of implication that Soviet Russian military does not take of good care with military vehicles? Cyka blyat. Off to the gulag.

>>50324243
Not really, but red-orange-rust color fits extremely well to that typical soviet green.

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All these Citadel paint shills...

>>50324257
newfag alert

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>>50323840
>whats wrong with that bolter?

It's the original Umbra-pattern bolter. The RTB-01 Beekees came with plastic ones, and most bolter-armed metal beekees of the era - such as Brother Hamilton here - carried them as well.

NEW THREAD

>>50324483

>>50324508
At least copy the essentials from the Op.

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Thinking about selling this guy to raise funds for a chaos army. What do you think he is worth fa/tg/uys?

>>50324645
Its clean and neat. It looks OK. It needs shading though, the whole thing is flat. Its probably 6.5/10. You might get retail price for it

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It's kind of annoying that the IF-specific torsos are Mk 3 but BaC marines are Mk 4. I mean it doesn't really matter as pieces of armour can be mixed and matched between marks (nearly) freely but it does irritate my autism a bit.

>>50324818
should bought MK3 forgeworld or the prospero box ya tard

>>50324889
This purchase predates BoP, and forget paying FW's prices.

>>50324905
chinacast then? or quit being a poorfag?

>>50324919
You still lose money going with recasts, the BaC set was too good a deal to pass up.

>>50324945
Quit bitching then. Prosper is just as good of a deal.

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Reposting.

I think i missed 1 or 2 threads but whatever.

>>50325777
Actually fuck it, new thread, ill post them here
>>50325810