WIP - Work in Progress General

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>>55379599
Nope just hours of hate and a priming of white krylon>>55380533
Its just krylon white matte primer my guy, all touch ups are done with white scar but they are hard to do

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>>55383667
That leg looks so great that I'm inspired to share my own WIP.

Sorry about the poor focus, but then again the HD video camera seems to exaggerate every flaw that you don't notice IRL so that's probably a good thing.

>>55383748
Dude that rust is perfect

Just ordered the wooden base and styrofoam for my AoP board, really excited to start work on it when it arrives. Anyone else building a custom display?

>>55383807
I literally basecoated it with GW's Typhus Corrosion and drybrushed with Ryza Rust, just the way they intended. That's what it's like.

>>55383880
The only things I did differently was skip the chipped metal effects because for me these plague swords look like pure congealed rust. So I went for pure rust with nothing else.

Made my very own lightbox with baking paper and duct tape. Gets the job done but I think i need to invest into more powerful lamps.

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>>55383910
Also forgot to add pic

>>55383919
Huh. I've always looked at light boxes as a bit too labor intensive to be worth it but that looks totally achievable. A cardboard box, some duct tape, and baking paper. Nice.

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>>55383919
>>55383910
Might add the results. Posted this one last night but without lightbox. Tips on getting better results using lightbox are welcome (like how strong lamps should be used etc.)

>>55383943
I thought so aswell but it was very easy to do. Took like max 30 minutes to build. Most of the time took me to tape the box flaps together.

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>>55383973
Yes I think stronger lighting is all you need at this point.

paintjob aside

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I finished this yesterday.

I'll probably put some gloss varnish on the eye, and some armour chips.

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Finished my Engine last night.
Painting it was far easier than building.

>>55384216
I love it. The eye is too good.

>>55383817
I will most likely start making chest-high walls today, then I will make a lake and 2 hills down the line.

Thinking of using spanding foam and stucko for the hills and looking at some national brands of matetials to make the lake.

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Goddammit.
I fucking love Mantis Warriors. Even if the Yellow is a pain in the ass to paint.
The guy on the far right is the only one thats layered and highlighted, the rest are just basecoats and wash.
A couple Questions for you, /wip/:
What Color should I make the plasma coils?
Do the red Bolters look good?
Do the brown/leather Tabbards work or should I repaint them as normal cloth?

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Almost done this guy, just hung up on the scheme for the banner. I have most of it decided but still have no clue what colours I should make the banner itself. Any ideas are welcomed.

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>>55384403
Also, my first time trying weathering/chipping on a model. I'm trying to make it look rusty as well.
Am I doing this right? Or should I just keep it clean like on the left side of pic related?

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Nearly finished this Doomrider conversion, just waiting on one more bit and need to file down the green stuff in the leg and hand after it cures.

>>55384505
Dear god anon, that looks amazing.

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>>55384505
It's... it's beautiful.

>>55384505
Is doomrider a dapper?

>>55384505
fucking great
how did you make the bike

>>55384425
I would make the main colour on the banner black to differentiate it from the model
Model looking ace so your banner should turn out great

>>55384752
The bike is just the standard chaos bike with the skull shaved off, the doom siren from the vehicle accessory sprue, a couple demonette claws and wrack Sickles on the front, and a couple gargoyle heads from the accessory sprue on the exhaust.

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I'm really getting the hang of it nao

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Reposting cos I lost the old thread I posted this in like a retard:

Anyone know how well Warlords Pike & Shotte 28mm minis mix / kitbash with gw (especially whfb) minis?

I wanna convert some of these bad boys for a Bloodborne skirmish but I'm afraid the difference between whfb Empire and these would be too jarring.

>>55384476
Consider using a sponge to make the rust patterns, make sure you wipe off most of the paint. Use a brush to join up the sponged bits so you still get the sponge pattern, would look less blobby.

>>55383748
Looks probably very good, better photo would show for definite!

>>55383700
Gotta echo what another anon said, I think you are overdoing the washes. I like using washes heavily too but you really have some extreme pooling of dark washes going on and it looks a bit messy.

>>55384505
C-C-C-YEEEAAAAAHHHH!

Please make the terrain white so it looks like a giant mountain of ___snow

>>55384403
It warms my heart to see more Mantises. What're you using for your yellow?

>>55384403
Is that a freehand logo? Good stuff, looks great
Real fan of these.

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its finally finished, almost 2 fucking years of on and off building, painting , and jigging a nagash sitting on a magewrath throne C&C welcome.

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Necromancer Warband Update

Managed to squeeze some time in to paint this dude that's going to be a Thug or Raised Zombie or something. Just need to snow his base.

Had to use a tub of scenic snow to reflect some light, too shiny pre-matte varnish.

So my Yvraine models head got lost in transit, anyone recommend some good female head swaps for an eldar female with long hair? Sorry no pic as phone is shit

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>>55384425
Here's what I recommend for colors. Your marine is gorgeous by the way,

I'm lacking any bone colors. Can someone tell me what colors I can mix to make my own?

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>>55383700
Impressive. On my miniature when I was clipping the bell weapon from the frame it launched somewhere in my dining room. I had to replace it with an axe head from my putrid blightkings set. Here's mine.
I'm an amateur painter. Started working on him yesterday.

>>55387140
White and yellow.

>>55387168
How much yellow? I'm guessing only a small amount, right?

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Making progress on Lord of Contagion and friends. Painted the purple cloth now Im just going down the list of sections to paint before I continue with my blight drone and helbrute

>>55384216
Holy shit. I aspire to paint as good as you.

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>>55387199
And backview for Not Typhus

>>55387184
Just a tiny bit. On second thought, maybe use orange instead.

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>>55387162
> amateur

Shut your fucking mouth. It just needs a wash and ittl be golden

>>55387140
Have you got Rakarth flesh, or zandri dust, or anything like that.

Failing that. half white, quarter brown, quarter yellow.

>>55384505
Make sure to grab some Krycell snow powder for the cocaine.

>>55387199
Jesus, don't put them on that bench top. It's horrible to look at with that background.

Put a piece of white paper behind them, or something black.

The colour choices look really good so far.

>>55387269
Aw, stop it you!

>>55387369
Ah yeah my bad on the background I'll set up a light box for the next photos to come. Thank you on the colors too! I really like the weeping legion look.

What do you guys listen to while you paint?

>>55387827
A mix of Duncan and Morrakiu.

Anyone have any recommendations for lights to paint under? With the night coming earlier and earlier and the room lighting in my paint area being awful it's becoming hard to paint.

>>55387887
I have an LED desk lamp, but you really need light from 2 sources to properly illuminate what you are doing to prevent shadows on some models

>>55387887
you could try using a head lamp. Go for ones with the highest Lumens.

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Right or Left? Left is nuln oil only, right is super thin abaddon black with nuln washed in.

>>55388269
I'd say right as it looks cleaner but maybe you are looking for dirty looks

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>>55383667
Started a 3D base for my Dunecrawler. C&C welcome. Does anyone know what glue would work best on the foam. I need something strong that won't melt it

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>>55387060
Didn't see your post in time. Looks really good though. I like the checkers for the lower right shield, may use it other than the tan I painted. And thanks for the compliment.

Got the base coating done and am just looking it over to see if this is the direction I want to go.

>>55388269
They look about the same to me.

>>55388708
I didn't think background checkers would look good but they really do.

Great work. Maybe include a little yellow on one of the shields though.

>>55388708
this makes me feel bad about my own skill level, I love it.

>>55388758
>>55388843
Thanks. Fot the center shields I like how it is because it gives it more of that checker feel. Not sure what I want to do with the shield to the rightmay just make it yellow. Was also thinking Red with the Blood Angels symbol? Not sure if successor chapters honor their parent chapters in that way.

>>55388708
Your freehand is amazing.

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Been working on an old, rusted out knight, almost done now, just waiting for varnish to dry while I beat up the chassis.

>>55388631

PVA/White/Wood Glue is good for that.

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Thank you, whoever gave me the color recommendations for bone. It worked! Kinda. Good enough!

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Just finishing up my living ancestor for my squats for a game this weekend.

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I'm working on this Chaos Spawn I kitbashed together. I'm trying to get better at painting here, I followed the meathod Duncan used for painting Nurgle skin (White undercoat followed by two layers of athonian camoshade) but something just doesn't seem right.

Any tips?

>>55389265
Thin your paints.

Inherited a small force of harlequins that have been painted with black and white checkers, you guys reckon if i alternate some washes over the white checks itll look decent and colour them properly?

>>55389364
I don't see why not. Just make sure to apply them in super thin layers so they don't pool. The glazes would probably be better.

>>55389265
>but something just doesn't seem right.
You put the washes on too thick and let them dry in big puddles. Washes look like shit (and not the good Nurgley type of shit) when you slather them all over a mini.

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Cuidado! So, Im thinking about a strip in the middle of his helmet, but I dont want to paint it red because of the eyes. Im thinking yellow, but I dont know, thougths?

>>55389265
You let the washes pool. You can give him a hard drybrush of that green+white you have going on, a then reaply the wash in the most deeper parts.

>>55387827
Well I had wrestling on in the background this evening when painting. YouTube videos, whatever sport happens to be on (Test cricket is brilliant to paint to), battle reports, Slayer, whatever really

>>55389516
That's really sharply painted battle brother anon.

>>55389516
Do it red, no reason not to

>>55383667
I got an idead for my deathguard models. Tell me what you think.
>Prime white
>Wash with 50/50 mix of athonian camoshade and agrax earthshade
How would this look for the main armor color?

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>>55384216

>>55389723

see >>55389265

>>55389723
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVQVjuUDRts
This is the method i used.

>>55386742
2 years of work. picture on the side and you cant see a thing.

Anons, maybe you can help me with some sort of color identity crisis.

I painted my base so far with "Warplock Bronze" from the Citadel painting palette. Now I was looking to make some non-metallic colors on the top and I thought about taking some sand tone. I got "XV-88", "Karak Stone" and "Zandri Dust". Would you think those colors would net a decent enough contrast, or should I switch my color scheme in total? I really liked the Bronze so far and I do love the sand-ish tones (like Khaki?) from the latter 2.

Thanks for any advice

>>55383919
mini still casts shadow, so it's not working properly. Light should be stronger indeed, but not directed straight onto model.
https://youtu.be/lZ7g9DatLpI?list=PLcdsbwBroEmD2fNEJhcju6PD7qRmoo04Y
I found that tutorial very helpful.

>>55386742
Conversion looks good but painting seems basic. Can hardly see anything because you've backlit the photo and posted it sideways.

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>>55384403
> Yellow.

Tell me about it.

I ran out of steam half-way through a Gargant big-mob... about a year ago.

>>55390369
Post pics, what minis are you talking of?

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>>55383667
Not my painting,

Doe's /tg/ think this model would be fine for an governor, or is it too commissary. Thinking about painting it sky blue and regal.

I have limited greenstuff skills, but I could change parts of it.

>>55390624
>an governor
lol sorry, i'm half asleep.

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Made a little progress

Got sick so took a few days off painting

Also wanted to do some free hand on GUO since I hardly see any

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>>55390442
Sure, here you go. This is actually my first miniature ever painted, and I really suck at painting, at least that's what my memory tells me when thinking about art class.

You can see the current color on the metal (Warplock Bronze) and the 3 colors in the back in question to fill in the currently blank spots in front of the legs (from left to right: XV-88, Zandri Dust, Karak Stone.

Apologies for the (maybe?) bad lighting and/or pose/photo of it.


The question still stands: Will the sand-tone/khaki colors (seen above) give enough contrast or should I swap to a new palette at all?

>>55390700
I love your painting style. Truly art.

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Day off project done. Wish the lighting was better, washed out the highlights a bit...

>>55385301
>Anyone know how well Warlords Pike & Shotte 28mm minis mix / kitbash with gw (especially whfb) minis?
Warlord sells minis that are mainly sitting somewhere between GW and Perry in term of scale.
They are somewhat inconsistent depending on what ranges you look at since they bought a lot of molds from different companies.
I only have some Antares and Hail Ceasar stuff from them so I can't really speak about the Pike and Shotte stuff specifically.
Maybe you'll get a better response if you ask in /hwg/, since scale is a mayor concern for these guys and GW is pretty much everywhere.

GW themselves is fairly inconsistent as well. The old Empire plastics and the new stuff look pretty different.

From what I have learned about scale from my collection of both GW and Warlord sculpts I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that the GW pieces probably are gonna be a bit bigger, especially noticeable when you look at the feet and hands.

You can get away with a bit of variance in height and proportion, without it looking off though, since people come in all sizes IRL too.
Heads with hats and beards make it easier to hide slight size differences too, you just have to watch try and keep is somewhat consistent.
GW feet can be twice as big as truescale feet, so you may have to make a choice there, but if you get a bit inventive you can get away with a lot.

No idea what Bloodborne is btw, so not sure how much freedom you have here with your conversions.

>>55390734
I would go with Karak stone, but you need another color I think
Also it's probably not a good idea to go for a desert base

>>55390841
Is there any color you would maybe suggest? And could you explain why it would be bad to go for a desert base? Is it because of the current color already, or the difficulty of making a desert base look good?

>>55389139

Pretty cool. How does he stack up heigh-wise compared to a normal squat?

>>55390870
Maybe a deep, bluish green or a red/orange color.
As for the base, I think it looks too similar to your primary color already; you usually want a different color so the miniature can pop more.
Desert bases are quite easy to do, but if you want to do one I wouldn't recommend the classic "Sahara" yellow desert, but maybe a gray lunar desert or a red Martian one.

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So guys, I'm a new painter and I fucked up by gluing my magos dominus together before I started painting. I realize now that this is a terrible mistake, but are there any ways that I might be able to mitigate it?

>>55390926
I see, thanks. I might mix up some grey into it (I think I have some grey color in the palette I got from my buddies I play with) tp get a darker(?) sand tone.

Thanks for the advice anon, as a newbie I really appreaciate it!

>>55390949
If you used plastic cement you are dealing with a chemical weld. So it may be better to leave it alone, or you'll have to cut the model apart.
If you used superglue there is a chance you can pull it apart. Some people like to put superglued stuff into the freezer before pulling it apart.

Good luck.

>>55391013
I used the citadel plastic glue.

>>55391006
No problem! Post it here when you have done the next step :)

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>>55390894
My plastic squats are about a head taller than the old metal and plastics, but are still a head shorter than old marines. And FAR shorter than primaris.

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Posting a couple of the daemonettes I made a few months ago. The time gap is because lots of personal shit has been happening here lately, and yes, they gathered some dust. Apologies for that, but it honestly wasn't that visible to me when taking the pictures and I am a lazy shit so you'll have to bare with me.

First daemonettes, and first time using green stuff. I wanted to give some of them second breasts because as is, they just look lopsided to me. Since they are my daemons, and I am effectively their god, their form had to be moulded to my whim.

>>55391388
oh shit, sorry- needed to reduce the size more.

>>55384505
Hot diddly damn.

>>55391022
Plastic glue basically "welds" plastic together by melting the plastic so you're dealing with one model now in essence. You'll have to cut them apart if you want to separate them.

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>>55389139
>living ancestor

Emperor's Teeth! I used to have a Living Ancestor as an ally for my Space Marines in Second Edition, but I sold the model years ago. How do they figure into whatever version of the game you are playing?

>>55391606
Counts as a Magus for a heavily converted (but unpainted) Genestealer Cult army.

>>55391546
not entirely true as the 'welded' parts are still likely the weakest. He could attempt to break it apart, but it would be risky.

I mean you COULD perform heart surgery, sure, but the better option would be to not soak your bacon in butter before eating it.

>>55390949
my advice is to buy a new one and do it right, but save the one you fucked up, maybe break it up for terrain or a casualty marker or something kewl.

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Kitbashing some AOS Blood Warriors into berzerkers for my CSM. 90% done the assembly on the champion and a regular 'zerker - the champion's rocking a power axe and a plasma pistol. I know the greenstuff on his arm is garbage but I'm new to using it and I'll carve it to a better shape once it's dried. The rest of the squads will be using chainspears once they ship in from Anvil. The hardest fight in putting these together has surprisingly been gravity - I had to prop the axe arm up against a box after taking these photos so the weight of the axe doesn't drag the entire greenstuffed arm down with it.

Are there any tabard bits for Terminators? I want to give my BT's some tabards on their terminators.

>>55391958
If any kit's got it, it'll be DA Deathwatch.

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>>55391743
>not soak your bacon in butter before eating it.
How about you go fuck yourself instead?

What's a good way to get a nice brass color (for World Eaters)? Every guide I look up looks more like bronze than brass. Should I go with gold and use earthshade on it?

>>55392009
Use a bright yellow gold and add a little bit of green tint.

>>55391989
>not laying your extra greasy bacon on a bed of buttered toast to soak in the heaven

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I'm fairly new to the hobby and wondered if anyone would know how to achieve the weathering effects on the monolith in the picture.
Would it be airbrush or pigment?

>>55392036
Ooh, didn't think of that. But I'm kinda stupid so can you tell me what kind of green I should be looking for here? Something yellowy-green?

>>55392163
If you want advice on how to recreate an effect you should take a picture that isn't blurry as hell.

>>55392163
From what I can see that monolith has been drybrushed a lot.

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Lads I cant work out whats "wrong" with this Kan, when I look at it there just seems something off about it.
Do you reckon I just need to break up the monotony of the red? (I guess it could be this as it is still fairly early)
Or are the scratches too small and distracting or something?

>>55392288
Are those missles on that rack on the right of the model? I feel like if you painted those a metallic color, maybe a greyish brown to match the rest of the model, it'll help break the monotony of it all. The vents on the side could also use a different color, under the steel bar arm thing. The bolts on the arm are also all red instead of being painted the same as the other ones on the model.

>>55392288
Too monochrome. It certainly looks like it belongs in WIP, because it looks like you finished the front of its "torso" and then quit. The bolts that hold its feet together, the exhaust, more bolts on the arm and the rocket set up all need more metallic paint. Also paint the wires and tubes something different, like green and/or blue.

>>55392288
Make that arm metallic, and exhaust thing on the back too.

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>>55392202
Here's some pics of brass from google. The green helps differentiate the brass from gold. You could even add some green washes on top to represent verdigris if you want a really weathered look. Additionally, green is complementary to the red armour of the World Eaters.

>>55392288
Paint the missiles, dude. Break up that monochrome for sure. Hit up the cables under the legs too, and the exhausts.

>>55392288
>what's "wrong" with it
The shading looks bad. It doesn't actually shade the model — instead it looks like the model has been very poorly shaded. You've also forgotten to shade some places, for example the cabling under the left leg, the pneumatic reservoirs on both legs (the red areas next to where the "knee is").

The highlights are too aggressive. You went from Mephiston Red to Wild Rider Red. The model thus looks very pink. Instead, Evil Sunz Red should have been your first highlight with Wild Rider as a filan, very mild highlight. Also the highlights conflict with the shade a bit too much.

3. But most importantly: it's not finished. It looks "off now" because you still have more steps to add. The closer you get to finishing the model, the less off it will look. I know this is pretty obvious, but it's a common obstacle a lot of painters don't overcome because they get despondent with their choice of colours or skill and quit halfway through.

>>55392288
>metal missile pod
>different color missiles (yellow or black or both)
>metal exhaust pipe
>metal rivets on arm
>metal pipes on legs
those are some ways to make it look less 'I just coated it all with red and that was it'

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>>55392399
>>55392288
another thing is maybe paint a few parts in yellow. A yellow leg area, or the bottom part of the front, that sorta thing.

>>55388269
Right sprue with the reverse facing black and white guys looks like it could be an album cover.

Iyanden Eldar so far. Speed painting with predominantly washes, really happy with how the yellow is turning out. C&C welcome.

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>>55392492
FFS. Pic attached

>>55391958

They have loincloths but not BT tabards. CSM have chainmail tabards.

>>55392231
I didn't take the picture, i just found it.
I'm wanting to recreate it

How can you dull a coat of Nuln Oil Gloss?
Would a layer of lahmian medium work?

>>55392639
Yes, up to a point.

>>55392639
You mean kill the shine? Lahmian works but matte varnish works better. Get regular Nuln Oil next time.

If you mean make it less dark so it gets more grey or faint, putting anything on after it dries is retarded, you thin it down before you apply it to begin with.

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I like this new terrain but feels like you need £400 to properly fill a table.

>>55392163
Sponge weathering by the blurry pic.

>>55392682
>If you mean make it less dark so it gets more grey or faint
I don't think he means that because he speficially said "dull Nuln Oil Gloss" instead of dull Nuln Oil.

>>55392680
Thanks.

>>55392682
>You mean kill the shine? Lahmian works but matte varnish works better.

Yes thank, you.

>Get regular Nuln Oil next time.

To me it seems as if Nuln Oil Gloss finishes neater, I was thinking of using it recess wash some white, but obviously want to remove the shine.

>>55392732
You'd think he would just buy nuln oil if he didn't want nuln oil gloss.

>>55392399
I'll give these a bash and see what happens
>>55392384
Think you're right about the highlights, I didnt go straight to wild rider but they are a tad too strong, I'll bring them down a bit

>>55392743
>To me it seems as if Nuln Oil Gloss finishes neater, I was thinking of using it recess wash some white, but obviously want to remove the shine.

It does, that's because the gloss part helps it flow into cracks more and not sit on the flat surfaces and staining them as darkly.

You can copy this effect with regular Nuln Oil by either glossing the whole model or mixing gloss into the Nuln Oil, but then you just end up in the same spot you're in now. But it does save you time from having to have two separate pots of Nuln Oil.

>>55392749
It's an easy mistake to make, nigger.

>>55392743
>To me it seems as if Nuln Oil Gloss finishes neater
Consider buying some drying retarder. It gives the pigment more time to settle into the details and not stain where you don't want it to.

>>55384216
>>55389743
>"WHAT ILLOGIC IS THIS?! KEEP YOUR FILTHY PENIS-TIPPED FEET OUT OF OUR LABS AND SECRETS!"

>>55384216
If you could just put a little white dot on the boarer of the iris and the pupil it will be a perfect eye

best starting hobby set?

>>55392897
Dark Imperium

>>55392966
no I mean the painting/modeling hobby, not the gaming side

>>55392767
Shutup, you glossy pleb!

>>55392972
Ah, my mistake. In that case I would suggest you buy a paint brush, some paints that match the colors of the army you are thinking of starting, some glue, some primer, clippers, a file, and some models.

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two simple hand swaps and suddenly a model becomes much more characterful

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>>55393012
>asks for recommendation
>doesn't get a recommendation

captcha
>Road Sold

>>55393107
>how YOU doin'?

>>55393113
Because there aran't any non-tabletop hobby starter sets for 40k.

>>55393107
Looks like he's trying to remember directions.

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>>55384505
Do another like pic related

>>55393144
I'm never asked for specifically 40k. This isn't a specific to 40k thread.

>>55392859
>FILTHY PENIS-TIPPED FEET

kek

>>55393161
You seem like a smart man, anon. So in all likelihood you probably would find it much easier than I did to google it

>>55393107
Should make his head looking to his left and have a weapon in the other hand if you were trying to make him do tactical hand signals.

>>55393153
>was it right at the destroyed Rhino...nonono because the mound of dead heretics is after the Rhino

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>>55390624
I have so many commissars. 4 others not pictured. So turning one into a corrupt commissar and another into a governor, thou I think maybe I should shave off his hat and give him some facial hair.
I reckon it would be fun to make a squad of cadets, like in the old days.

>>55393107
I like that you can make a knife fight Marine.

I'm painting my ork vehicles in a mainly gray colour scheme. How do i shade it without it either turning brown or too dark
I'm trying to make it look pretty dirty

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Working on my Sisters of Silence Celestine Count-As. She won't be running with Geminae.

Really happy with how it's coming along.

>>55393299
File down the tits, fill out the waist a little and you've got a pretty good example of Fulgrim.

>>55390624

Yeah, that makes a fine Imperial governor

>>55393107
>the codex astartes calls this maneuver... kanCHOU

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Chaos Johnny is primed and ready. Should be painted by the end of the weekend.

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>>55393426

>>55389023

That looks ace. What's your technique for doing the metal?

So this has probably been asked a million times, but I'm new so please forgive me.

I want paint agitators in my dropper bottles. I don't think stainless steel, even 316 grade, is a good idea. It will rust eventually. My next options seem to be hematite, which is basically rust already but seems to be a very solid option, and tumbled glass chips for aquarium substrate.

Thoughts or opinions?

>>55393593
Just get some glass beads.

>>55393107
>listen here you little heretic

>>55393593

I use laboratory glass beads. Lava beads also work.

Do the new nurgle marines all come monopose? I see a lot of people all posting the same looking guys. How do you feel about this? Happy that they have more detail or would you prefer to have more freedom in customisation?

>>55393705

The non monopose ones literally just came out.

>>55393107
>see you space cowboy

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Just finished up base colors and waiting for my shades to dry on these converted rattling gunners.
On a second note I just spilled like half my bottle of nuln oil in the process...

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gotta clean up the designs on the top, but what do you think of my disk of tzeentch for ahriman?
1/3

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2/3

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3/3

>>55394029
>>55394041
>>55394061
hard to tell with those awful photos

>>55394072
It can't stand on its own.

>>55394084
so prop it up against something and let your camera focus on it propperly, right now it's just blur

>>55393614
>>55393700
Going with glass beads. Not laboratory boiling stones, but just basic bitch 8mm glass beads. Thank you.

>>55394061
There is quite a bit of gold paint on the inner blue of that disc

>>55394476
yeah, I'll be cleaning that up too, probably putting a wash on it as well.

>>55393426
>>55393472
Where do I buy me a Johnny?

>>55384425
I was debating for a long time between lamenters and imperial fists, but chose the fists because the checkers are just too much for me. Godspeed yon niggerfaggot.

>>55394568
Ebay usually

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Alright /WIP/ which head should I use for my necromancer? Left or Right?

>>55394811
Can someone make a gif outta this

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Messing around with some alternate colour schemes in prep for the Death Guard releases this weekend. That, and looking for an excuse to dick around with Hull Red. I think this guy turned out half decent.

>>55394829
I like the big bell

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>>55394829
Back side

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>>55394811
It's gotta be the scream bro.

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Necromancer Warband Update

Couldn't really find time to do any more painting today, but since the basic chunk of my warband is nearing completion I decided to unpack and begin cleaning up just some extra models I grabbed for it.

The wraith I'll probably use either as just a wraith monster for encounters, or as an Assassin or some such shady individual of a soldier.

The Blackguard will be a Knight, but a very evil one.

Mrs. Necromancer is going to be on standby in the event that either my Wizard or Apprentice die and need to be replaced.

Got them all washed so no more mold release, just need to do the rst of the prep work.

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This very dynamic looking wraith will be either a Man At Arms, or if I can find some kind of crow to perch on his shoulder, he'll be a Crow Master.

The skeletal Minotaur I'm going to use as a Templar or Medium Construct.

Most of these Reaper models have a fair bit of flash and mold lines, and plenty of them have parts I need to heatgun to bend into proper shape. The wraiths' sword being a good example.

>>55393107
where did the hands come from?

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>>55394852
Alrighty, Scream head it is, thanks for the input

>>55394811
>wake me up inside
>can't wake up

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This thing I just bought because it looks super cool.

Then I realized I could use it as a Large Construct (Probably a fair bit bigger than anyone would expect for a Construct). I could also use it as the Golem for the Hunt the Golem mini campaign.

Hopefully tomorrow I can find some time to get some actual painting done.

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What do you guys think

Are there any miniature sellers or just general bitz makers that sell decent, "attractive" male heads? Something like what comes with the Eldar Guardians or Dire Avengers would be nice, but I don't want to buy a whole goddamn box for a head when I don't play 40K.

>>55394829
That base is proper disgusting.

>>55395120
ebay is a good place to buy bits, some other sellers are bitzbox, and hoard o' bits

Do you guys varnish? If so, what kind? Like matte, satin etc...

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>>55394568
>Where do I buy me a Johnny?

Like >>55394802 said, eBay has been the best place so far. I spotted one there that sold for £19.00 on Monday, but that was the first one in quite some time. When I see them, I post them here.

Other alternatives might be the Oldhammer forums in the UK, or, if you belong to a Facebook group that deals in such things, you could always ask around there.

>>55395346
I'm a huge fan of Satin. I find Matte makes things look too dull and Gloss is obviously way too shiny, Satin is a happy middle ground.

I do mix and match sometimes though. I'll spray a whole coat of satin then go back and and brush gloss on metallic areas that I want to really shine or gemstones.

>>55395109
Lookin pretty fucking good, man. Keep it up.

>>55395346

I use matte.

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Trying my hand on an interesting take on Salamanders 6th company. These are the first models I've been working on after spending a decade away from the hobby. I am getting my groove back, slowly. Where do I have room to improve?

What happens if my paintbrush has dried paint on the bristles and I soak it in stripper? Will everything get fucked?

>>55394916
intercessors kit

>>55387827
Andres Segovia. Try it.

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>>55395610
looks pretty thich on the metallics and theres loads of areas that could do with a touch up. The armor needs some more depth, hit the reccecces up with a wash.

>>55395610
Drill your barrels, first of all. Second is that your green is kinda flat - it really needs a wash and highlight. The metallics are also pretty hit and miss. They suffer from the same problems as the green but also probably need another layer of base paint as well; I swear I can still see the green under the silver on the faceplate. Eyes also need a highlight since they look really flat.

Overall, do all that and clean up the bits where you painted outside the lines and you should have a nice tabletop standard model.

>>55393247
How have you liked the new Army Painter paints? They've really stepped their product game up recently, but I'm a little tired of their marketing promoting shitty speed painting with dips or whatever. Have some pride in your work, ffs.

>>55395610

The nonmetallics look like you have painted them with nice, even, thin coats. Duncan would be proud.

Part 1:

First, you are not done with your base coats ... the purity seal is painted all green.

Part 2:

Once you are done painting the purity seal, take a step back and make sure you are done "painting in the lines"... some tricks to do this include holding your miniature upside-down or photographing your mini with a phone camera and observing it on there... your brain will "re-evaluate" the piece you are painting and you will catch small mistakes

For example... to me it looks like the faceplate on the helm and the imperial aquila on the chest can be neatened up by fully painting them in their respective colors, so that the green basecoat doesn't show through.

Also as the other anon has pointed out it looks like you can neaten up with green in a few places where gold paint went over green armor plating.

Part 3:

Aside from that, shade all the recesses and highlight the raised edges as the other anons have mentioned. This will make all the detail on the miniature "pop out". This is generally the most time-consuming part for me.

Part 4

Lastly, once you are done with your marine, do something neat with the base ... it always looks cool when your fully painted miniature is standing on interesting terrain... or at least the base has a piece of debris and is painted a suitable color which complements the paint on the marine.
Keep going man.

>>55394012
F

Think it's worth painting a flamer with a burnt effect on the barrel and are there any decent tutorials out there for that kind of effect?

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>>55395860
>Think it's worth painting a flamer with a burnt effect on the barrel and are there any decent tutorials out there for that kind of effect?

You mean like discolouration due to heat?

>>55395109
Gnarly. I have no idea what it is, though.

>>55395396
Do you generally just dip/spray the whole mini? Like as a last step?

how do you boys paint 1k sons

>>55395832
I like them a lot. I got the mega set, or whatever the fuck it's called. The brushes are really nice too.

>>55395969
My cousin complains about how much they separate and how much he has to shake them. You have that issue too or is he a pussy, as I've long suspected?

>>55395708

We practice on tabletop standard guys so I don't have to dip and repaint the Captain and then, eventually...Vulkan He'stan.

I definitely need to improve my brush discipline and relearn what colors sit well over each other. Serves me right for spray on my base coat with Army Painter. Need to do white next go.

Also, I got to get a pin vice.

>>55395698
I need a wash, definitely on the armor. Fifty-fifty Biel Tan and Nuln oil going to work?

>>55395850

Purify seal! Of course!

Thank you all for your patient kind response, I know it's a work in progress. And you helped me target where I can improve.

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>>55395882
I'm thinking more about a black sooty look (like on this flamer) rather than that kind of discolouration, still saving that pic though

>>55393299
I'm not sure anyone would want to play against a celestine that small. Let's hope you're not trying to cheese her into cover.

>>55395999
I do have to shake the shit out of them, so it's probably pretty accurate.

>>55396070
Ah well. Probably isn't that different from Vallejo. Maybe try a glass bead agitator.

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>it's so humid out the top layer of my tamiy paint starts to dry after a few minutes so I have to shake the pot after every other time I dip my brush
goddamnit it was in the sixties for two weeks straight and I get fucked the moment I have free time to paint?

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>>55394811
Isnt it obvious?

>>55396094
Good idea, will do. Thanks

>>55394829
>>55394843
Looks pretty good anon. I've never liked the standard green on Death Guard. Is the armour hull red?

That orange base rim is the most disgusting thing about the mini.

>>55396171
>handpainting tamiya
>painting from the pot

>>55395999

Most acrylic paint brands separate in most colors. It's very rare or only certain colors that don't. I only use black, grey, and white from AP but those don't separate. The grey will often separate into black and grey, but it won't separate super bad like Vallejo or GW paints do into pigment and medium.

>>55390399
Thanks for sharing this video! Will put these tips to use today.

>>55395886
Demons of chaos screemers

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working on my lil Nurglebro, hoping to get that horticulous soon

>>55387827
Preston Jacobs theories about A Song of Ice and Fire.

>>55396530
really like the bright highlights

So how long do you guys generally let your paint water sit when not in use/before changing the water? Longest you've let it sat?

I had an idea. SoS with Skitarii vanguard heads and CSM/SM backpacks as SoB models.

Anyone try this before? Pics?

>>55397077
I pour it away at the end of every painting session and if i've been painting red or metallics.
longest i've ever had it sit there is probably like 2 days

>>55397096
Why red?

>>55383667
Whats /tg/s thoughts on Anvil Industry?

I want to give some Cadians valhallans type heads

>>55397296
I've only gotten some weapons+drum/box mags from them but out of the various resin stuff I've gotten from various places, they're easily the cleanest and crispest casts.

>>55397220
not him but it seems to me like the red pigments for GW paints atleast are pretty strong and can affect your paints.
Metallics obviously because of the shiny flakes
>>55397077
I usually dump it after I'm done for the night

>>55393503
Thanks, it's:

VMA Gunmetal/Citadel Leadbelcher basecoat
Nuln Oil Wash
VMA Steel/Citadel Runefang Steel dry sponged
Oil paint wash of Burnt Umber all over, then brought back down with mineral spirits and a cloth/flat brush
Spots of Burnt Sienna oil paint blended at the edges with mineral spirit

How does the painting skills tree go
1-Paint in the lines and washes
2-highlights and basic tricks like lenses
3-blending
4-light effects
Something like that?

>>55397930

OSL is on the same level or lower than 2, but people treat it as higher because it appears fancy to them.

>>55397930
Add drybrushing to level 1? Too many people us it as a crutch from what i've seen.

>>55398020
I haven't drybrushed that much
How is it a crutch and when are you supposed to use it?
I think it gives weird surface appearance

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>>55397930
painting skills tree for what...beginners? Because thats a skill tree for beginners. The real tree is like this.
1-learning to paint near or at a tabletop level after a lot of work. Thinning paints, learning to highlight, get small details.
2-Tabletop level all the time. You've got the base/layer/wash/highlight and shit steps down to a science. You make constantly presentable, neat figures. Possibly works blending, feathering, and light osl. Most 'airbrush only' users fall into this category and stay there for a while.
3-Delving into color theory as well as more advanced practices. Experimenting with nmm, heavy osl, heavy basing, lots of conversions, more blending. Getting into busts/bigger figures.
4-Getting real good at nmm. Now you can blend, feather, etc, with the pros, and make real nice figures. Also lots of freehand.
5-a master who makes great nmm while practically blindfolded, doesn't need to look at references for anything, can paint amazing freehand.

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>>55398122
like these are all approximations and shit. Some people advance faster in certain areas, slower in others, etc. I've seen people who do amazing nmm but have basic grasp at things like color theory.

>>55398122
More so beginner-intermediate
Brainstorming what the skills and improvement roadmap is like

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How can I paint metal armor like in pic related? I'm really digging the gritty effect

>>55398081
It looks great if used for earth, furs, woods - rustic kinds of textures.

It's easy to do and gets ok results, so some people just go HAM on it and neglect other stuff.

>>55398192
The tldr is basically, start with a metallic basecoat, carefully shade with black/brown glazes (as in glazes made from black/brown paints, not "GW glaze") and obviously highlight with metal.

>>55398192
Looks like leadbelcher plus nuln oil
Then some edge highlights with runefang or whatever

>>55396061
>thinned brown
>thinned black
Done.

>>55398259
>>55398275
thanks anons. is it just more washes than normal? would nuln oil by itself give that brownish color? If not, you're suggesting dark brown glazes, would a reikland wash not give the same effect?

>>55390734
This anon again. After some quick discussion and the tips from >>55390926 I'm still not sure about my secondary color besides Bronze (Warplock Bronze).

I've looked up color combinations and found that bronze might go well with blue. Or purple. Either way, I'm still bad at picking a good color scheme so maybe you anons can help me with that? What would you suggest? Mix something up from Karak Stone (a khaki-like color), or use some royal/navi blue as a secondary?

Man, painting really is kinda hard if you have literally no idea what you're doing if you suck at arts.

>>55398122
As a newb please define osl and nmm?

>>55398377
Open source(?) lighting- pretty much lighting effects to show illumination from things
Non-metallic metals- using non-metallic paints with lots of blending, highlighting, etc. to give off a metallic look

>>55398410
*Object source lighting

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How would I go about getting the shading and weathering in pic related

>>55398423
Ah, thanks for the correction.

Do any of you run blogs? If you do, post links. I want more stuff to follow.

>>55398428
Airbrushing, oil washing and weathering powders.

>>55389139
Ain't Living Ancestors the Dreadnaughts for Squats?

>>55396068
She's a Stormcast, so she's not actually that small.

So I retried my stucco for basing, repainted as water and it's good. tried matte varnish spray to seal. Worked wonders. No gloss, no soup skin effect like what happened with PVA last time. That said the raised points still chip if scratched with a fingernail.

My question is, how hard does the basing material need to be? As far as I know, it should only need to handle light handling since if you're doing anything more than that, you're actively trying to damage the fucking thing.

Also how do people clean/seal shit like leaves and twigs they find outside for use in basing? Won't they rot or harbour bugs?

>>55392502
Looks good to me. Should be easy to go back and pick out a few gemstones and details, and you've got a solid, clean set of base colours to work with.

>>55392705
I've been stopping myself from buying any for months now, but with Necromunda coming out I don't know if I can resist any longer. They look like much more impressive kits than the Sector Imperialis stuff, but it's still close to twice as expensive and has less of a LoS blocking footprint.

>>55398296
Nuln oil is just black, for a brown wash go for agrax earthshade. I would recommend experimenting a bit.

>>55398081

People who drybrush as their main form of highlighting are using it as a crutch. You're SUPPOSED to use drybrushing on fur and chainmail and sand. That's where it works best. But when you're drybrushing generic marines? It looks really scratchy and bad. You should at least cover it up with a glaze or wash after to hide the obvious drybrush marks, but people who drybrush everything rarely do.

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I'm curious, /wip/. What sort of quality do you consider tabletop standard? People seem to have a very different idea about what it means, from basecoat + wash all the way up some real fancy looking minis.

What sort of quality do you paint to, in your eyes, and how long does it take you per model?

>>55398428
Well, other than >>55398458 's reply of airbrushes, oil and weathering powders, I'm gonna try to convert this to the GW paints method. Prime Grey, Base Celestra grey (two thin coats), Agrax eathshade recess shade carefully, highlight screaming skull. Use agrax and/or seraphim sepia to draw the rust lines coming off those studs. For the tires, water down some brown and apply it between the treads, and on those hubcaps to get that caked-in dirt effect, Drybrush an appropriate brown for the dirt along the bottom side. And at the end, if anything looks glossy, slap on a thin layer of lahmian medium to matte that shit. The only things you'd want to be shiny might be the bare metal parts

>Watching a Duncan tutorial
>"Now you'll want to thin your paints down"
>Takes the smallest amount of water and adds it to the paint
>Still comes out perfect

Surely this is some camera trickery? He doesn't use much water at all.

>>55398900

He uses quick strokes and spreads the paint out very far to make sure it doesn't clump up. He definitely doesn't thin it as much as normal painters do, but that's because he's making a GW tutorial, not a normal tutorial.

You could argue it's some conspiracy about GW wanting you to use paint faster and spend more money, but really it's probably because GW knows beginner painters don't have the patience to do several thin layers so they make a video telling them to just thin the paint enough to not make huge chunks and try to do at least two layers.

>>55398900
He uses Citadel Warter™. It allows you to paint with only one and a half thin coats.

>>55398920
>GW knows beginner painters don't have the patience to do several thin layers

I know that I sure don't. How anyone can get any army painted in good time when every colour needs multiple coats is beyond me.

>>55385914
Basecoat averland sunset, then layer with Yriel Yellow, Highlights with Flashgitz Yellow and White Scar.
>>55386523
Thanks, and yes, it is freehand. I dont really like using transfers, since they usually stick out from the model.
>>55390431
Stay strong anon.

>>55398929
Citadel Warter is for gits. What you need is a hearty pot of Citadel WAAAGHter

What air brushes does /tg/ recommend?

ONE THICC COAT
https://youtu.be/sTDrFc7BrqI

>>55392859
nice FNV reference

>>55398993

Iwata Eclipse or Badger Krome, if that's too much, Badger Krome or any cheap knockoff.

>>55387060
>i cri evertim

Does /tg/ think the Citadel paint app will decrease the number of "fallen" soldiers ?

>>55391388
>daemonette (male)

>>55390823
inside of the cape looks unfinished. Just nitpicking here though. Looks great

>>55398993
Badger Patriot is a good starter IMO.

>>55390949
What can't you reach?

The Magos Dominus is pretty ok to paint assembled, you just have to do the small bits as slightly awkward angles and use narrower strokes.

If you're new, put it aside and practice on your skitarii first. You never want to start with the HQs like I did.

I'm picking up my first resin and metal miniatures later today (an inquisitor and ratlings)
Is there anything I should know beside not using plastic glue, cleaning the resin before I paint it and not snorting resin dust?

>>55399436
It's really really easy to miss flash on metal minis. They like to be folded back against the miniature and the reflective nature of the metal can make them difficult to see. I've lost count of the amount of times I've pored over a metal mini to clean it, primed it and sat down to paint only to find one or two little tags still stuck on the mini.

>>55387827
Either dad rock or The Daily Shoah or Exodus Americanus

>>55396530
That's pretty good. I dunno 'bout the horn being blue though. I just always felt like they were made from, you know, horn.

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Poor Bert
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTDrFc7BrqI&ab_channel=WarhammerTV

>>55399741
This got literally posted 12 posts above at >>55399047

>>55399470
Good to know, thanks

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTDrFc7BrqI&ab_channel=WarhammerTV

f

>>55398587
Washed & drybrushed with minimal slop. That's my bottom standard.

>>55395610
Not bad but here are a few things you can try,

1. Make sure all of the base colors are done---that purity seal is still green and it sticks out like a sore thumb.

2. After you do your initial base of green a really easy way to make the model pop is to give either a recess shade, or if you wanna have a great look AND keep it relatively fast do this----Shade the ENTIRE model in biel-tan green or some other green ink, when it dries take a lighter color and drybrush the entire model. This effect tends to make the power armor look great

3.Gotta wash those metallics, nuln oil would be best for those, possibly reikland fleshshade.

4. Take a very small amount of a dark grey (like eshin grey) and edge up the black a little bit. If you dont want to to edge highlites than take a very small drybrush and highlite that way.

Not bad overall though, it's tabletop but it does not pop.

>>55398587
3 colors and a wash at the least is enough effort to keep my racial slurs at bay.

>>55398461
Nope, psykers.

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Fag who made the Doomrider back again. Tested out the Emperor's Children colors on a spare model. Wondering if it's a bit too vibrant.

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>>55401162
Better and somewhat more recent pic, since I didn't realize that one was complete ass.

>>55401162
>Slaaneshi worshippers
>Too vibrant
Anon, you've got to embrace the garishness

>>55399128
desu I'm sure some of them are traps. I say that with a degree of uncertainty because my reasoning for making some of them flatchests is because I simply like flatchests.

>>55401162
>Slaanesh
>too vibrant
you do not have the correct mindset to attempt this. I am sorry.

>>55401412
Perhaps vibrant was the wrong word; its more that the 'official' colors of the legion are stated to be more pastel whereas the pink I've gone for is a more of a hot pink. Wondering if it'd look better with a more cool color.

>>55387827
the voices in my head

>>55401527
My only complaint is that it looks splotchy, but you did say it was a test model so I chalked that up to "getting it done fast for visualization". Beyond that it seems fine. Be sure to throw in some blues, khaki/off-white, reds and maybe some purple. Doomrider should be suitably loud visually.

>>55398520
Also how do people clean/seal shit like leaves and twigs they find outside for use in basing?
Bake them in the oven to dry out and sterilize them then seal the base with a varnish when you're done.

>>55398122
nmm is a meme that only looks good at photos and at few angles. At other times it looks like a cartoon.
The real deal is true metallic metal.

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this is my WIP nurgle army. Still need to do all the guns and horns and rebase. Tips are very welcome!

Not sure what color to do for the guns but overall getting to something which looks cool

>>55398577
>You should at least cover it up with a glaze or wash after to hide the obvious drybrush marks

This. Drybrushing IMO can be a fundamental part of a paintjob, but washing/glazing afterwards is practically mandatory, unless you're really going for that chalk look.

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>>55398577
>ou should at least cover it up with a glaze or wash after to hide the obvious drybrush marks, but people who drybrush everything rarely do.

That's the thing though, if you hit it up with a wash/glaze after it tends to look really, really good. But like you said people rarely do. From what I have seen they do it the opposite way, wash first then drybrush when it should be drybrush then wash.

>>55398577
>People who drybrush as their main form of highlighting are using it as a crutch

Post your best work. Something tells me your highlites are gonna look like total shit.

>>55402317
I figure as long as said drybrush wasn't the last step on the paintjob, it'll be fine.

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>>55398577
Hey look it's a newfag thinking he understands painting because he read a GW guide.

Dry brushing as a technique isn't for any single purpose as you claim. It is a technique that catches the highest points in a semi random way. This can be used for many different applications. Some times you want that sketchy highlight but messy look for style reasons rather than laziness.

In the pick I used 3 different rust colours to build up an undercoat then gave it a heavy dry brush of Army painter's dead flesh. This combined with a heavy wash of rust ink gives a deeply corr decayed look. This is something I could not have achieved using any other technique. It's simply not viable to layer this randomly nor would stippling give the lines dry brushing does.

Now stop being a new fag and learn that painting goes beyond the basics. Old canvas painters used paint texture to add depth to a 2d plain. When you get deeper into mini painting understand that we can do the same thing with our techniques

>>55402459
>I figure as long as said drybrush wasn't the last step on the paintjob, it'll be fine.

Pretty much. Drybrushing is a wonderful technique that just like washing can make one look like they have more skill than they do, but you have to do things in the right order.

>>55402508
>
>>55402500
>>55402459
>>55402431
>>55402317
>>55401914
Jesus christ so much talk about drybrushing. Look, watch this video, this is how a one drybrushes standard dudes.... Base, drybrush, wash. Easy as fuck, no need for all these posts.

>>55402553
https://youtu.be/VEjaR_-lCxw

>>55402431
>you make a better movie then
Every time.

>>55402500
A super corroded look is one of the only exceptions for when drybrushing is appropriate. A lot of the time it's used by lazy people who just don't want to highlight properly.

>>55402593
Lazy people do stupid shit, everyone knows that. But you're also being stupid when you discount a technique because stupid people misuse it.

>>55402593
>>you make a better movie then

We are all painters here, every one of us. No matter how skilled or or unskilled and we come here to learn from each other. Now in your case I am calling you out for talking out of your ass. I say show proof that your personal way of doing things is superior, or fall on your knees and suckle me for the dark gods.

>>55402655
He doesn't have to present his work to have an accurate argument. That's like saying you can't say good is burnt unless you cook the food better yourself. People who can't cook can still taste how bad burned food tastes.

And not all of us are "here to learn from each other". Some of us are completely beyond /wip/s level but we come here to help newbies get off on the right foot. The actual good painters are all on facebook. In 1 day you will see more top tier paintjobs in 1 group than you do in /wip/ in a year

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>>55402770
>Some of us are completely beyond /wip/s level