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WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

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Thread replies: 337
Thread images: 82

File: How to Model.gif (4MB, 250x141px) Image search: [Google]
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"How Do Retards Keep Spilling Pots of Nuln Oil?" Edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
>Currently offline

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>We stood at the edge of destruction, and would have fallen... if not for the might of The God-Emperor and his Angels of Death.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivXS-58a2EE

>Previous Threads:
>>51812978
>>51794564
>>51770055
>>51756957
>>
>>51829251
>"How Do Retards Keep Spilling Pots of Nuln Oil?" Edition

Our science isn't advanced enough to know yet.
>>
Reposting

Hey /wip/ trying to make a napoleonic style regiment of IG, here's a list of the parts I'm using thus far but there are a couple of them that I'm not especially happy with

Head
http://kirtongames.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64_160&product_id=1181

Body
http://kirtongames.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64_160&product_id=1178

Arms
http://victoriaminiatures.highwire.com/product/dress-uniform-arms-resin

Legs
http://victoriaminiatures.highwire.com/product/victorian-legs-standing

I love the parts from Kirton Games but the arms/weapons aren't quite what I want as I wanted a more 'retrofuturistic musket' feel and the legs are far too expensive for a unit as numerous as Imperial Guard infantry. Seriously, dafuq Victoria Miniatures?

I've tried buying standard GW cadian legs elsewhere and just filing the pockets off but can't find an affordable bitz store with them in stock, any suggestions for alternative weapons/legs or ways to convert them?

pic related is pretty close to what I want them to look like
>>
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Working on this venom. How's it look? Any way I can make it stand out more? Kinda looks plain but don't know exactly what to do expect add freehand of the ynnari symbol, and there isn't much room for that

Need some easy eldar/ynarri runes
>>
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And here's the back. It looks fine here imo because there's more colour variety present.
>>
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>>51829276
I don't know, but I did it twice the only day I did it
>>
so just Praetorians with cuirasses? why not just make some bluestuff molds of the leg bits?
>>
>>51829251

Hey! Maybe a long shot asking here, but does anybody know if Cadian arms fit on Chaos Gors or Clanrats?
>>
>>51829483
I'm not really familiar with the process, how hard would it be to learn?
>>
>>51829514
not difficult

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDbNmvUY9II
>>
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Reposting my Archmagos kitbash WIP.
He's supposed to hold a giant Caduceus-turned-Power Maul, for which I still need a base grip and a sizeable skull for the top (either human or even Ork), so any tips on where to find something for that are highly appreciated.

Still trying to figure out what legs to go with, but I do like the Ironstrider legs so far. Do need some more buffing up to get some extra bulk, but I can pretty much just use sll the remaining armor bits and stuff I have for that. Will try to make a cloak to throw over them, if I can get a decent one done out of green stuff, which I already have trouble with making a good cloak for a simple Marine.

Also still need a head for the fella. Have Datasmith heads left, some Kataphron Breacher heads and a Ruststalker head as main candidates. Gonns need to find a good way to anchor it in place either way. Thought about maybe making his whole actual upper body stick out from the top for that.
>>
Does anyone know where the fuck I can get a bolter with no hand attached, I am in desperate need so that I can finish a kit bashed acolyte
>>
>>51829276

One day it's going to happen to you too, even though you thought you would never be dumb enough to do it.

Unless you keep the pot closed at all times even when using it, or put it way out of reach so you can never knock it over, but then have to bring it close to you or reach over to dip your brush in it every time, which is equally as retarded.
>>
>>51829600
I laughed all day at dumb asses complaining that the new nuln oil pot was poorly designed and was easy to knock over

then the next day I knocked it over twice
>>
>>51829637
You won't know true pain and despair until you knock over a Chainmail or Abbaddon Black pot.
Both has happened to me already.
>>
>>51829532
Uhhhh, that video seems to miss out some key parts of the process...What was he using for the piece itself? How do you ensure you get a full cast with no bits on the center of the model being lost?
>>
>>51829600
This is exactly what I do with all my paint, washes, and even the brush-on primer. I open the pot / unscrew the dropper bottle, put it on my palette, close the pot, and only then do I start waving my arms around / painting.
>>
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Did some work today on the other four Seraphim and my first Battle sister. What do you all think?
>>
>>51829637

GW should have kept it the same height as the old one but doubled the width.

WE MUST GO WIDER
>>
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Alright, I think that's enough progress for one day.
I got the base, legs, and back half of the main chassis done along with a good deal of the claws and powerplant (not in pic). The front of the main body (Sarcophagus and all) and the arms are barely at two base coats.

Overall, probably looking at a days more work, depending on much time I can devote to it.
>>
>>51829578
They come in lots of different kits. I probably have at least a dozen.
>>
>>51829578
>>51830048

You get them in kits produced before 6th edition September 2013.

The Command Squad kit should still be from that era.
>>
>>51829446
FUCKING
ME TOO
>>
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What is a good sub 100 dollar airbrush bundle (With compressor)
>>
>>51830234
As I was told on Saturday and another anon just last thread: there are non. You can get a decent compressor for 100-150€ from what I saw so far and a super cheap airbrush for like 30€.
>>
>>51830234
>that red trash can icon

I cri evertiem
>>
>>51830294
Really? Doesn't harbor freight have a cheap one?
>>
Are there any sculpting guides that you would recommend to a beginner ?
>>
>>51830234

Basically buy any decent tank compressor that costs $100 and has a shitty airbrush thrown in with it for free, and plan on buying a better airbrush in the future.
>>
>>51830234
>tries to do expensive things like miniature wargaming and airbrushing
>refuses to spend a reasonable amount of money to do them

Why do this to yourself? Why waste money setting yourself up for failure? You're literally better off saving your 100 and not doing it at all than wasting 100 on a shit setup. You need at least $150-$200 for a permanent setup that includes all the hoses and spare needles and accessories. You won't drop $100 and never pay a dime more for a good setup unless you only use it on priming.
>>
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Working on my Chapter Master's Terminator armor. I'm a sucker for the Sigmarine legs so I ended up using them with the Custodes top. The pose is a little more static than I'd like, but blame GW for not making more Paladin Prime legs in a dynamic pose
>>
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>>51831634

Helmet is too big.
>>
>>51829276
Oil spills are like bread falling on the floor spread first. It's just a thing that happens.
>>
>>51831634
Agreed, it looks like a cool mini except the head is totally out of place.
>>
>>51831634
How do the Custodes torsos fit on the Siegmarine legs? Is it a clean fit or does it need some fiddling?
>>
>>51831634
T-rex mode
>>
Anyone got tips for doing a decent turquoise? open to any easily available paint range, have a plan for a mechanicum army and want to figure out a colour scheme for my robutts
>>
>>51829567
>Thought about maybe making his whole actual upper body stick out from the top for that.
It could look cool for him to be nestled/plugged into a a huge bundle of cables. You could stack a ton of them to fill out the empty space and have his torso emerging from the top.
>>
reposting my boat for no particular reason
who wants to name it
>>
>>51832875

GOS Boaty Mcboatface
>>
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Reposting from the last thread.

Schism of mars based Imperials fists chaplain.
>>
>>51829251
Has anyone used Dettol to strip Forgeworld resin models before? I've currently got some pieces soaking, the paint is stripping but dettol is a slow process. I've left plastic minis in it for over a month with zero damage and the paint just peeled off like a sleeve, 100% clean. Does anyone know if resin will hold up the same? Some people reported the resin softening after prolonged soaking.
>>
>>51832922

If your resin gets soft you can just let it dry out over a week and it'll harden back up. When people say soft they don't mean floppy flaccid penis soft, it's more like the model's surface is beginning to not be as rock hard.
>>
>>51830234
https://www.amazon.de/Agora-Tec%C2%AE-Komplett-Set-Komplettsystem-Airbrushpistolen-Luftdruckverteiler/dp/B00A8I95NW/
>>
>>51832930
Yeah okay. The pieces are the main body and head from the Vultarax so they're pretty solid. I left them today for 6 hours then gave them a scrub and even the little spindly bits were still rock hard so put them back in for the night so hoping they'll be okay.
>>
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NOT my original idea, but my version of mecha-squiggy. Counts as gorkanaut. 10 dollars worth of green stuff, half a bottle of glue, 10 hours so far, and too many bits to count.
>>
>>51832875#
Boaty McBoatface?
>>
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>mfw I got boored with every army I paint just before I buy any vehicle

anyone else with shelves full of infantry?
>>
>>51832875
Boaty Mcboatface
>>
>>51829332
Try skitarii ranger guns.

http://www.bitzbox.co.uk/product_info.php/adeptus-mechanicus-skitarii-rangers-galvanic-rifle-p-106

This place is pretty cheap, but they don't have many in stock.
>>
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>>51832956
>>
>>51832974
>>51832964
>>51832881
O.K. keep eyes peeled future threads, it's not at the top of my in pile atm since i have a contest entry i have to finish but i will post here as i get to it
>>
>>51832995
>>51832956
Very cool
>>
>>51829988
Is he WYSIWYG for when I blast him off the board fampai?
>>
>>51832967

I only have one small army but I have yet to paint any of the vehicles.
>>
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Please notice me senpai.
Back tanks and details to go, but at least I can play him now

>tfw need two more to play that retarded tri lord formation
>>
>>51829664
I spilled half a pot of Ardcoat on my desk yesterday. Funnily enough the desk is cleaner now because it tore all the dirt off the surface when I wiped it
>>
>>51829967
>thinking it isn't functioning exactly how GW intended
Oh no, looks like you'll have to buy more overpriced specialty paint goy.
>>
Someone from a /wmhg/ was talking about mixing steyrofoam and superglue to make a super bonding agent. Anyone have any experience with this?

>Generously apply super glue to one side. Add styrofoam (one bubble should do for most cases, more for larger surfaces). Cover that styrofoam in glue and wait for it to dissolve. Then press both sides together for about 3-5 seconds. Let it sit for a few minutes before you continue working on it. After about 12h the bond should be as close to unbreakable as it gets.
>>
>>51829348
>>51829338
that edge high light is very messy, try using masking tape.
>>
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>>51832995
>>
>>51832995
Metal Gear?!?!
>>
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>>51833171
>>51833188
Again no weapons or glyphs to hide stuff atm
>>
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>>51833247
>>
>>51833033
Noticed.

Man, that's honestly the most retardedly '40k' model currently on the market. Love it. I personally think the chest armour looks a bit flat. Maybe drops of nuln around every rivet and a recess wash along every crevice would help giving it depths.
>>
>>51833095
Probably produces mustard gas.
>>
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I have spilled this one time too many!
>>
>>51833397
Think I've found your problem mate. You're storing it upside down mate with the lid off
>>
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Finished this lady last night. Feel like I'm starting to get African skin tones down pat -- which is great considering looking at my backlog I won't be painting another black person for months. Oh well.

I like how the leather turned out here. The green, too, although I could've poised the highlight a step further. The coat is frankly an embarrassment though.
>>
>>51833537
i really like that grass, how did you do that?
>>
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Just finished him, I don't know with what I should base him on. And can anyone tell me how to not have your phone's camera fucking up the colors? I have an Xperia E5 and the camera settings just either lose details or contrast the colors too much.
>>
>>51833645
Your lighting is probably bad.
>>
>>51833561
Uh, pretty basic stuff to be honest. I put down a layer of GW Stirland Mud across the whole base, then after that is dry I cover it with PVA glue and sprinkle green flock over it, tapping the mini over the flock bin to shake loose any that didn't hit the glue. In this case I also put on a grass tuft for some extra interest. Last thing is just paint the stripe of white to make it look like a football field.

Pretty basic stuff, but it works for me.
>>
>>51833694
Can't help it. If I don't put too much lighting the camera can't pick up the details, if I do the camera fucks up the colors. I miss my old phone.
>>
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99% done. I ran out of brown paint to finish the trench walls, but other than that the board is done
>>
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>>51833802
>>
>>51833815
>>51833802
Wow, that ended up looking really good! And now I realise you don't have any barbwires or sandbags, or bunkers. But I suppose those are easy to add in a modular fashion.
Congrats on a work well done, though!
>>
I need brush recommendations, /wip/. I'm aware that a lot of people swear by Winsor & Newton brushes, but I'd like to hear from some people with more experience with different brushes before I go ahead and get new ones.
>>
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>>51829332

Pic related
>>
>>51830757
They do, but it's not worth the money. The airbrush is a janky siphon feed double action, and the bundle compressor comes with a water trap only (no regulator). That said, the compressor wasn't terrible after I added a regulator; if you caught the compressor only (which does have a regulator, oddly) on sale and picked up something like a Neo, you might be OK. A comparable tanked compressor off Amazon really isn't much more, though.
>>
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>>51833918
I appreciate the effort but that does nothing for me I'm afraid...

>>51832991
Thanks, they look pretty good. I actually have a friend who plays Ad Mech so might be able to scrounge a few off him. Would be even easier if I learnt how to greenstuff the epaulettes on myself

a 40k version of pic related is going to represent some vengeance batteries on the tabletop
>>
>>51831634
Needs the head from the Emperor's Champion
>>
Reposting my Nurgley chaps.
Appreciate all kinds of input and especially any pointers regarding the usage of the paints Nurgle's Rot and Blood for the Blood God.
>>
>>51834213
>>
>>51834213
>>51834222
>>
>>51829332
interestingly that photo is from WW1.
Obviously they still look very similar to the Napoleonic style, but they are different and about a century out of date.
>>
>>51833918
I'm really struggling to accept this. The Fringed sheepskin and blanket roll suggests the 2eme Hussards, but her Shako and Jacket say infantryman.

3/10, would not pass muster.
>>
>>51834251
hah, don't worry, I knew that. It's basically a hodge-podge of everything roughly from that time period that's vaguely french. But not in the grim 'Krieg' style, more flashy uniforms and horribly ugly french tank designs I first had the idea when I saw the Malcador Annihilator and was reminded of the Char B1 and other monstrosities the French came up with
>>
>>51833033
Is that sir killalot from robot wars?
>>
>>51834429
Kek
>>
So are there any giant skull bits available? Like, "Khorne Lord of Skulls head" sized skulls, from some Fantasy giant or something? Preferably a humanoid one at that.
>>
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>>51834281
>Char B1
>ugly
>>
>>51834429
That's actually what I asked for when I bought it
>>
>>51829946
Is that age model?
>>
>>51835725
*a GW model
>>
>>51835725
>>51835784
Those look like scourge legs with a lot of greenstuff and recasted torsos
>>
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Haha! Time for converting!
>>
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Old GW painting guide has some goddamn gems in it. Why haven't you converted up a boxing dragon yet?
>>
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>>51835859
Hello my friend, I too buy random parts from toy soldiers and take screencaps using Puush.
>>
>>51835725
>>51835784
>>51835800

Scourge legs with recast sisters of silence torso. What do you think?
>>
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Look how Lifelike this is. It's LIFELIKE
>>
how do I go about creating a Chaos Lord - for 40K or AoS, doesn't matter which - that looks more unique, different and such? I feel like I've hit a bit of a wall in terms of ideas.

Where do you draw inspiration from?
>>
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>>51836101
Go to the Warhammer thread, grab the realm of chaos books. Enjoy your cluster fuck.
>>
>>51829499
They fit pretty well on gors, though the arms are roughly half the size of their normal arms.
>>
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Tac sergeant for a thousand sons army for 30k.
>>
>>51833017
This particular variety of canned meat will open you up instead, just as he always does.
>>
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>>51836101

Kitbash. The lord picured is drawn from 3 kits. Not too hard, and it feels relatively unique.
>>
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Here's some face shields I'm working on. This is an older pic, as they've been cleaned up and filed to make a better blend into the shield
>>
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Anyone got this model? How high is this mounting piece on the turret? Specifically, how high is the mounting point from the turret ring?
>>
>>51832910
Looks really nice anon. Good controlled edge highlighting, love the weathering.

If I were you though I'd add some highlights to the plumb
>>
>>51831928
>>51831683
Unsure what helmet I would replace it with, maybe one of the smaller gk purifier heads.
>>51831945
Unfortunately no, I had to cut off a sizable chunk from both sides of the abdomen portion, but after that it fit like a snug bug in a rug.
>>
>>51836596
>I had to cut off a sizable chunk from both sides of the abdomen portion

Like shave the attachment point of the legs to fit into the torso?
>>
>>51836101
It all depends on how you wanna go.

First, pick load out. My chaos lord has a seer's bane and plasma pistol. Second, think of cool ways to convert that loadout (in my case, mixed a Stormcast glaive bladewith a grey knight halberd hand and used the sanguinary guard plasma pistol arm, but cut off the head and replaced it with a demon head.)

Then, figure out the pose you want, find the prices, and KITBASH
>>
>>51836636
Somewhat, I basically carved out the sides of the rounded top but kept the details intact.
>>
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This is not my first model, but the first I put real effort into, how is the colour scheme and what can I do to improve this?
>>
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Thoughts about my first mk III word bearer? Any tips for the next 24?
>>
>>51836129
>>51836243
>>51836667
alright. thanks
>>
>>51836718
Ok, good to know. I've been wanting to use Liberator legs on Sword and Board Custodians, maybe even shave the lightning bolts from their chests to make them like the ones found in Collected Visions. Also allows Elite units to be distinct from the Troops.
>>
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>>51836809
Another fucking flipped image, god I hate phoneposting.
Also not sure about the shoulder pad and battle damage
>>
>>51831634

Don't know what those other anons are on about with the head, it looks fine to me. Nice job.
>>
>>51836863
You should put him down on the table and place a backdrop behind him but it looks really good.
>>
>>51833918
Why is a girl with no pants so close to a horse dick and not taking it?
>>
>>51836101
One (or both, I don't remember) of the Realm of Chaos books has a table for creating a chaos lord by rolling for mutations. You could have an insect headed, crab armed, lord with a snake body.
>>
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>>51833397
>>
>>51836804
Paint is too thick
Green on the base rim ugly as shit.
Green should be more saturated for the EVA scheme.
>>
>>51832875
SS Minnow Johnson
>>
>>51837099
>The Duncan of disapproval looks in your direction
>>
>>51836518
you cna see it in the picture

i have a couple of land speeder vengenaces and the x,y pivot of the turret is about the same height as the space marines head.
>>
>>51836129
I used to own moon man I miss him
>>
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>>51836863
for the battle dmage i would recommend learning how to do actual battle damage that isnt just dabbing specs of silver onto the mini

real wear and tear leaves black and rusted marks on metal, the whole point of painting metal (besides making it look cool) is to prevent it from rusting

IMO, battle damage like pic related looks much better (especially when you highlight under the specs)
>>
>>51837864
That doesn't give me accurate measurements, though.
>>
>>51836198
Very nice
>>
>>51837925
maybe explain why you need the measurements and i can tell you if it would fit or not

i dont have my mini in front of me rn
>>
>>51837942
I need to fit a missile battery on there, and unless I know how much clearance I have, I can't figure out what sort of missile battery would suit.
>>
I just watched the WHTV vid about painting gems using a silver basecoat and the technical paints. Is there another technique to paint them? How do you guys paint your gems? Doing some research because I don't want to mess up my Dwarf giants gems.
>>
>>51837971
due to the construction of the mini pic related would probaby work really nice
>>
anyone have a good tutorial on painting complex gems?
>>
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>>51837921
I actually used brown and black before metal but 'ardcoat for the transfer and my camera being shit makes it look far worse than it is. Anyway, any tutorial about the subject? Has Duncan enlightened us with his wisdom about it?
>>
>>51838254
if you have an airbrush:

do you entire model, clear coat, then speck on the brown and black and then highlight underneath the specs, seal with a clear coat

if you do not have an airbrush:

paint as normal, but instead of doing decals after battle damage you must do battle damage after decals

Decals are put on top of paint, so i something were to chip the paint, it would also chip the decail, also worn out decals really blend the decal better with model

If im painting a model with battle damage i do heaving chipping on the rest of the model but do a much softer and subtle chipping effect directly on the decal to knock it back into the backround a bit and blend it with the rest of the model.
>>
>>51838254
look at this dreadnoughts left kneepad, see how the decal is worn out? this type of chipping makes it look like its an actualy decal rather than a glossy sticker
>>
>>51829600
>>51829637
GW DELIBERATELY DESIGNED THEIR POTS TO BE EASY TO SPILL SO YOU BUY MORE

IT'S A CONSPIRACY
>>
>>51838735
>not making a stand for your paint pots
>being this much of a pleb
>>
>>51837062

Because she's not a degenerate like you
>>
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>>51833397

Pic related
>>
I'm working on assembling an Iron Warriors squad for Kill Team. Got a bunch of the metal heads and torsos coming in the mail, and I was scrounging eBay for a cheap box of chaos marines for the rest of the bits when I realized something-
would I be better off using the Prospero marines instead? Less of the chaos derp, and slightly cheaper, but would they be chaos-y enough?
I plan on heavily converting the fuckers either way. Would weapons be a problem?
>>
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>>51836070

>lifelike
>>
>>51839039

Just paint those black and yellow lines over everything and you're fine
>>
>>51839074
i love how conscientious iron warries are about safety in the workplace
>>
>>51839074
Sounds good. Maybe it's worth ordering some regular chaos marine bolters and backpacks. Wish I could get IW pauldrons somewhere other than FW or Chinaman, though.
>>
>>51839157
They're just warning everyone that anything they build is liable to collapse.

Dorn is my copilot
>>
>>51835347
Hey I'm not saying I don't like it! It's got... character...
>>
>>51832875
The Hmas Shipstain
>>
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Does anybody have a good mud recipe I can copy?

I have this nice SWM kit I could use but I decided to base my entire army with mud. I'd like something more repeatable, that way I don't end up with 50 shades of mud.
>>
>Finally got a new job at a Lowes
>Have a 10% employee discount

Well, sounds like after I get some more personal things squared away, maybe I can get a good air compressor at a discount.
>>
I'm seeing some painting tutorials online where they recommend adding a coat of gloss varnish before washing to break up surface tension and protect the color then re-matteing everything at the end. Does it really make a difference? Should I pick up some gloss varnish?
>>
>>51839709
>I have this nice SWM kit I could use but I decided to base my entire army with mud. I'd like something more repeatable, that way I don't end up with 50 shades of mud.
the kit uses pigment and spackle or something right?
You can just premix enough of that for your army. That way you always end up with the same shade of mud.
>>
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Done. R8?
>>
>>51839969
Try it and see how it goes
>>
>>51840013
I like the face on the gunner, but I would have gone paler. Great eyes though.
>>
>>51840013
no runes, flames, graffiti/10
>>
>>51840004
I suppose thats true, and the pigment bags look like theyre going to last a hell of a lot longer than the spackle and sand
>>
>>51840013
Looks good but you could give another coat of highlights between base colour and the final light so that it doesn't come so hard.
>>
>>51840119
Anon, I understand you find memes funny, but we've reached a point where its just annoying.
>>
>>51840187
It actually is a little bare desu senpai.
>>
>>51840187
I'm not memeing, you need a contrasting color somewhere to make it less boring.

You've got red as your main color obviously, and black and silver accents, but there's no secondary color to make the red interesting. Add a blue, green, or white rune to make it look really solid.
>>
>>51840232
>>51840241
There no way to do so on such a small body though.
Im doing the Ynnead army so I cant do the tradition Deldar thorn rune scheme they have. And the ynnead is too large imo, I only got like 1CM of space in the centre before im touching the glass or im off the model.
The only damn thing in this book is that Y logo and the traditional eldar runes which only really apply to tradition eldar vehicles, as Dark Eldar have their own runes
>>
>>51840344
And before anyone says anything, the Starweaver IS WAY BIGGER than the venom
Not my pic
>>
>>51840344
>>51840361
Why not make the rune smaller? Or paint it along the side panels? Alternatively, some kind of pattern like on the Ynnari Starweaver.
>>
>>51840406
Have you seen the Tony Skater Pro Raider skull I did? I dont want that to happen again. Really dont want to paint on the sides as symmetry isnt really easy.
Diamonds is a trademarked harlequin thing also so.
If I make it smaller itll be illegible .
Really difficult to get a good freehand idea going unfortunately.
>>
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>>51840512
>Have you seen the Tony Skater Pro Raider skull I did?
Yep. I thought it was silly but not nearly as triggering as so many other anons did. Some silliness is inherently part of 40k after all.

>Diamonds is a trademarked harlequin thing also so.
Didn't necessarily mean diamonds, but something similar to break up the monotony of the red. Like making the points of the Venoms nose or something to look like stylized fangs or something like that. Or something like pic related.
>>
>>51839709
Duh. Just shit on the bases. Cheap, efficient, biodegradable, realistic, especially if you have small rocks in there for assistance in digestion. Wait for it to dry and then apply matte varnish to lock it in place.

literally that easy
>>
>>51840622
I see what you mean, ill think of something, thanks.
>>
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Been practicing speed painting. Did Boromir in just under 2 hours. Obviously not winning any awards and still in need of details finishing, but happy with the result.

I may finally have an army finished to a tabletop standard yet!
>>
>>51840699
>just under 2 hours.
nice
>>
>>51840699
Dubs of nice Boromir
I have restarted to paint after 3 years without touching any miniature and now I take from 6 to 10 just to paint a space marine. They look way better than my old models but I have 60 marines to paint. How have you practiced?
>>
>>51840699
Looks rough, but good for 2 hours. i reckon a wash of agrax on the cloak and nuln on the horse's mane and tail will mute the highlights down and not be so smack in the eye. Boromir's face is excellent however.
>>
>>51840788
6 to 10 hours*
>>
>>51840788
>6 to 10 just to paint a space marine
What the shit?
I can paint a whole brood of gants in an hour or two. Waiting for the washes to dry takes more time than anything else.
>>
>>51840699
Teach me your secrets, anon. I need more than 2 hours for a single fucking Skitarii and need to trim that down significantly.
>>
>>51840845
I imagine it's focus with no distractions and a plan of how the model will look finished in the mind.
>>
>>51840788
>60 marines to paint
I feel for you anon.

>how have you practiced
Basically trying to get as much done in a short space of time. Whilst one coat is drying be working on a different bit etc. Being accurate with the brush takes loads of practice too but is really important so you save time not covering up mistakes later on.

God speed anon.

>>51840812
That's a good shout on the washes anon. Nice one!
>>
>>51840871
This too.

Stick a decent playlist on, make a brew and keep your head down.
>>
>>51840840
Lack of practice and being very perfectionist but not a good painter. I've posted some word bearers before if you want to take a look
>>
>>51840871
I doubt it, a lot of people's problem is that they learn to paint well slowly, then try to paint fast, which is a hard transition to make.
>>
>>51840996
I'd like to see anon
>>
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Its been a few years since I painted. Finally got on my butt and started projects again. It was hard getting back into it but Im starting to pick it back up. I also feel amazing getting stuff done Ive had sitting around for years. Battletech stuff, some Smoke Jaguars, Marik Catapault, and SLDF lance. Few TBD faction minis too. All WIP except the purple one in back just needs varnish.
>>
>>51841006
This guy. I have painted one more today but he isn't finished
>>51836809
>>51836863
>>
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all right /wip/ I will preface all of this with the warning that this is my first time ever trying to paint anything.
I ordered some Pathfinders a while back and this is my first attempt at painting them. this first drone is my "spare" drone, with some spare parts left over from others and thus the first victim of my experiments. the primer went on blobby because I held it too close, so its already off to a bad start, but the others came out fine. Here's the first layer of actual paint: what am I doing wrong?
>>
>>51841048
see how the paint is so thick it's actually adding extra texture to the model? Thin your paint more next time
>>
>>51841048
THICC
>>
>>51841033
I like it. Much prefer the more dark, muted red for WB.
>>
>>51841048
>Here's the first layer of actual paint: what am I doing wrong?

Yellowish colors are notoriously difficult to work with. You need to apply multiple thin coats, instead of applying one gloopy thick coat. If you don't want to go through the extra effort, I recommend switching colors. Not all cheesy fishmen need to be yellow.
>>
>>51841048

Thin your paints. Begin with a base coat and then work your way up to the color you desire. What paints do you use?
>>
>>51841158
I'm trying an orange base with dark red/maroon/burgundy highlights, I've got Gory Red and Fiery Orange from Vallejo, along with a simple Red Wash.
>>
>>51841158
>Yellowish colors are notoriously difficult to work with.
Why is that?
>>
>>51839709
Variant shades are good, more natural.
>>
>>51841236
>Why is that?

I guess chemistry? The yellow pigment allows whatever color is underneath it to show through. The result is highly noticable brush streaks which makes people want to apply more paint on the first go.
>>
>>51841236
The pigments are more translucent, same with white, and red to an extent. More translucent pigment means there needs to be more pigment there to get a solid colour, and if you apply that pigment in thicc layers the paint will look like garbage.
>>
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>>51841081
Yes, I like things introduced by FW's horus heresy like black shoulderpads, the golden scriptures and silver faceplates but that bright red they paint word bearers for example in betrayal at calth is too blod angel-ish.
Pic related is much better
>>
>>51841286
>>51841289
So they're are only difficult to work with if you're impatient?
>>
Does anyone else forget how much eyes fucking suck every time they have to paint them?
>>
>>51841350
They take longer no matter who you are.
>>
>>51841211
>I'm trying an orange base with dark red/maroon/burgundy highlights, I've got Gory Red and Fiery Orange from Vallejo, along with a simple Red Wash.

Did you use white primer?

I'd suggest you get a nice solid tan or light brown and use that as a base coat, then build up a few layers of orange.

I got good results on my Eldar with the old Citadel Iyanden Darksun Foundation paint - I'm not sure if the current Citadel Base equivalent is as good.

>>51841350
>impatient

Patience is always vital in painting, though there are some painting methods that require less finesse. If you don't mind super bright minis, you can prime white, then use a few coats of yellow shade or glaze. However if you do this, you won't learn the basics.
>>
>>51841490
I used dark primer. Right now thisbis more of an exploratory commission than a real paint attempt. hopefully by the time I reach the actual pathfinders I'll have something figured out.
>>
Hey guys, any chance to get my hands on some video tutorials here? Looking for the commercial ones like Miniature mentor etc.
Kisses
>>
>>51841675
>Looking for the commercial ones like Miniature mentor etc.
I haven't seen them, but I can guarantee that you won't find any info in there you cannot find for free.

Just hit up youtube and start watching videos, not even warhammer tv, there are more than enough channels focusing on different areas of the hobby.
>>
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More progress on this fine tough girl. Time to try freehands, I was thinking about painting a little golden fleur de lis on every single red diamond. I suck at freehands though.
>>
>>51841752
She looks shocked. Y'gonna touch up the eyes later?
>>
>>51841752
>Time to try freehands
hold up for a second there, cowboy.

Jokes aside I think you should have another look at her eyes. Her tiny pupils gives her a simpson style look.
Or like she is freaked out of scared.
You need to give her bigger pupil to make her look less scared.

In any case the eyes look too big either way. I don't know the sculpt, but are you sure her eyes aren't supposed to be closed or something?
>>
>>51841733
Ye, I know. But I thought pirating a comprehensive guide on 4chan is less work for more than collecting useful advice on youtube
>>
>>51836198
anon, clean your lens for christ's sake!
>>
>>51841833
They did clean it. With Vaseline.
>>
>>51841752
As has been said, irises need to touch the top and bottom of the eye for her to look less shocked, you really don't want that dragging down what's otherwise a great job on this mini.

Check out Massive Voodoo's tutorial on painting eyes, can't link directly because mongolian basketweaving site thinks it's spam.
>>
>>51841824
>pirating a comprehensive guide

Just because something has a price tag attached to it doesn't make it better, anon.
>>
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>>51841802
>>51841823
>>51841899
Actually the irises are green and normal sized, the little black dot is the inner pupil, the even smaller white dot is the light reflection. Or so I intended. But yeah maybe it just doesn't work at this scale.
>>
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>>51841953
Doesn't work like this, you need more contrast between the whites and edge of the iris for it to read properly.
>>
>>51841953
Could be the photo, but I made this killer diagram to help with painting the eye.
It looks like it is flat.
The iris is an aperture. It's not a flat circle. It's a concave surface with a hole in it behind a shiny smooth convex transparent lense.
It just kinda looks like a flat light green circle. You need to give it a bit more depth.

enter my mspaint magic
>>
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>>51841953
>>51842084
dammit
>>
So i'm starting to paint a large group of similar models and I figure batch painting is the way forward.
I'm used to just painting one model at at time then moving on and i'm curious; how many models is a good number to work on in one go?
>>
>>51842218
>how many models is a good number to work on in one go?
somewhere between 5 and 10 works well for me.
I tried 20~25 and it's just draining. No fun at all.
If you got a smaller number you are still being pretty effective, but you also see your progress.
It's frustrating if all you do for two hours is a basecoat and you feel like you made no progress after your session, simply because it doesn't really show.

It's more about motivation though. Depends on what works for you.
I'd advise against painting more than a dozen models at once though, even if the unit you are painting contains more models via your army list or something.
>>
>>51841546
One more thing, regarding thinning your paints, I always mix in some Vallejo Matt Medium with my paint, generally one part medium, three parts paint, with more medium if I want a slightly transparent highlight.
>>
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>>51842069
>>51842084
Thanks for the input, I'll try to correct the eyes before continuing. Yeah the sculpted eyes are actually a bit tinier, but I wanted to show the green iris so I enlarged them a bit. If I can't make it look acceptable I'll reduce them to their real size again and just make them more simple.

There's a limit to how much I can do though, keep in mind those dots are so tiny I had to drop the 0 sized brush after a few hours of failed attempts and use a sharpened toothpick to paint them.

Just for the lulz the face looked like pic related before, started all over.
>>
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>>51829251
>>51829251
Been painting some deathwing

Not sure if i should have used more shade, went with a more subtle ahade this time
>>
I need to paint a liquid blood effect and can't work out how to go about it. Basically needs to look like a glass container full of blood.
Trying a few test bits using a BftBG, spiritstone red and bloodletter glaze in differnt combinations and techniques and all look shit
>>
>>51842381
Nice and smooth. I like it. Mine have a more marbled and mottled look due to too much wash and too many transitions. Yours looks better i m h o.
>>
>>51839969
Gloss varnish creates a much smoother surface which does help the paint run easier. I don't think it's necessary for the kind of washes most people here are doing.

However, if you're doing an enamel/oil wash it's a must to protect the paint from the thinner you use.

Also if you actually play games with your minis, gloss varnish followed by matte varnish after you're finished is the best protection against handling wear.
>>
>>51842381
Like the mini, but instead of going heavier on shade I'd go higher on highlights, and also drybrush some variety of colour onto that clump foliage.
>>
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>>51842541
To be fair i do initially use an airbrush and instead of just applying the wash to everything i apply a gloss varnish then only put the shade in the cracks

I think im gonna use darker wash however, up close it looms nice but far away it doesnt really "pop"

Pic related is another deatbwinf witbout the matt finish
>>
>>51842587
Not original poster

But gloss varbishes should only be applied witb an airbrush or they will gunk up the model

I reccomend vallejo gloss varnish with 50% thinner and 50% varnish and apply in think coats
>>
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So finished up the inside and am now just cleaning up the drybrushing and wash. This is my first vehicle so I am trying to get as close to the box art for the most part. But how do I do that smokey effect they show on that box within the yellow circle? I'd like to try that myself. Also should I try to apply my rust effects using a sponge or should I just go around with a brush like they also did on the box art?
>>
>>51842626
Thats a good point

Im really busy at college and generally have very little free time, so i usually try to finish a mini in under one hour
>>
>>51842322
>I had to drop the 0 sized brush after a few hours of failed attempts and use a sharpened toothpick

I have never come across a situation where you're genuinely better off doing this.

At 35mm you can absolutely paint eyes with a high quality brush. I don't paint irises on 28mm, but I do paint eyes, and I haven't touched the no. 0 I bought when I upgraded brushes because I haven't found a situation I need anything smaller than the no. 2 for yet.
>>
>>51842709
If you have an airbrush just airbrush it on


If not just dead a really dark dryvrush


Alternitivly you can buy some black pastels and crush them into dust and rub it on
>>
>>51840344
Mask a racing stripe on that motherfucker.
>>
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Done for the time being with my Hinterlands warband, bar some minor fixes here and there.
Three Vanguard-Hunters and a Knight-Questor.
>>
>>51842723
Yeah simple eyes are not hard to do with any 1-sized brush or smaller that has a good point. The hard part is making them symmetric so they don't look googly.

Now try to do that three times for the iris, pupil and reflex on each eye, if you fail to center a single one you are fucked, if you make one of the 6 dots a bit bigger than it needs to be you are also fucked.
A toothpick is a lot more precise at this point and it's a lot easier to get dots of the same size on both eyes.

Fucking eyes man.
>>
>>51842736
Don't have airbrushing so I may just try my hand with the drybrush with some Nuln Oil, Just need to decide if I want to go with Black with a lil bit of Agrax mixed in or maybe Burnt Umber mixed with a lil Nuln.
>>
>>51841802
>>51841823
>>51841899
I think it's a perfectly reasonable expression to have when you're fighting giant nightmare penis monsters, tentacle pregnancy monsters etc. honestly.
>>
>>51842723
>I have never come across a situation where you're genuinely better off doing this.

I'm about to throw my hands up in despair and go buy some toothpicks soon.

I ruined a non-recast Roboute Guilliman because I couldn't get the eyes right and I did some damage to the head after an ill-considered stripping attempt.
>>
>>51842827
Can you drybrush with shade paints? I just use Abaddon Black and it works fine for the type of thing you're looking for. Shade paints seem too wet in my mind.
>>
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>>51843300
Well this is the effect I just got with Abaddon Black, didn't thin it down with wash or water. I like the effect but it's gonna need some cleaning up and highlights.

I think next I'm going to do the rust, chipping and welding effects before I move on to the rest of the base painting and decal.
>>
>>51841313
That headcage probably catches on that gorget all the time. Poor Word Bearer.
>>
>>51843339
Looking good my man, keep us posted.
>>
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>>51829251
My third attempt painting minis. Some giant sea creatures for D&D
>>
Can anyone tell what the highlight colors are on the green? It doesn't look like Moot Green.
>>
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>>51842218
>how many models is a good number to work on in one go?

Even if yer allowed more than 10 squadboyz in a unit, trying to paint more than that at a time (or, more specifically, having that many partially-painted models staring back at you on your workbench!) is risking a loss of focus. Even if you have more than that started, it's best to put away the ones yer not workin' on so you don't think about them as much.
>>
>>51843753
Seriously?! I even posted from my laptop instead of my phone this time. I don't know how this shit keeps flipping over.
>>
>>51843840
>I don't know how this shit keeps flipping over.

You should probably cut down on the Vegemite, m8.
>>
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>>51843753
>>51843840
Testing
>>
>>51843840
Because you're not rotating and resizing first.
>>
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>>51843900
>>
Should I texture and glue shit to the base before or after I varnish?

I'm gonna add little tufts of grass, but it's obvious I should do that afterwards.
>>
>>51843900
Looks good to me, anon. Thanks for taking Australian anons into consideration.
>>
update on slaugherpriest. this is the one im entering in the painting comp
>>
>>51843900
Try posting it a 3rd time without actually editing it. You never know.
>>
>>51844094
also since i am entering this in a competition any and all feedback is appreciated. i went with a cherry red gloss gradient for the armour and i'm not sure how i should go about edge highlighting
>>
>be me
>painting turret of my genecult Russ
>got my Zandri dust
>Multiple thin coats
>"This doesn't look quite right"
>One more thin coat
>"This doesn't look right at all"
>Think maybe the paint turned or something
>Look back at the label to make sure it's Zandri Dust.
RAKARTH FLESH
>>
>>51840996
I am the exact same as you anon. I take days to do one model. Although it's only after work I fit in some painting so like 2-3 hours a night. I bought the silver tower set months ago and so far I have painted 2 pink horrors, 4 blue and the ogroid thurmatage which I want to go back and redo some of. I also got those fancy gw shattered dominion bases and it took me 3 hours to paint 3 of the 25mm bases.

I do make a lot of mistakes I have to correct and that process seems to repeat itself over and over, even though I am slow as shit and try take my time.

It bums me out though that I spend all this time on the models and they don't even look that great. Like the anon that posted his 2 hours Boromir. My stuff doesn't even look as good as that even though I spent days on it.

I've no idea when I will finish this box set, probably 2019
>>
>>51844241
i found what helped me improve is trying new techniques. dont just learn the basics and repeat them, try something you dont often do. be it extreme edge highlighting, or wet blending, or just really deep layering, trying new techniques will build up your ability to achieve varied outcomes and give you a more overall grasp of painting
>>
>>51842069
Also note there is usually no white showing above the iris, covered by eyelid & lashes.
>>
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What does /wip/ think of my color scheme for my chapter master? Looking for tips and advice on color composition. Sorry for potato quality
>>
>>51844391
I like it, not many people have the sheer gaudiness to go full gold but you've made it look really nice. The green and blue spot colour in particular, although I feel like the helmet wreath should be green also along with the kneepads
>>
>>51844391
Red and green look weird too close to each other. I know people say that complementary colors work well, but some work better than others, and some of that has to do with culture rather than anything abstract.
>>
How big are Flesh Hounds? Gryph Hound sized?
>>
>>51844391
Too many colors, maybe? Or maybe it's that a golden god wants really warm colors in his color scheme, and this guy has lots of blues, greens, and cool grays in his details
>>
>>51842381
>2016+1
>Not drilling out bolter barrels
Looks pretty good otherwise.
>>
Hey guys I'm just starting out with my first set of models.

I got testors non-toxic cement for plastic models. Will that work?

Also what set of brushes should I buy?
>>
>>51843789

Okay, what shoulder pads are those?

I need to know.
>>
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I want to make some slaaneshi stand-ins for plaguebearers and pink horrors. Give me some ideas for models I could use or conversions to do to make them fit.
>>
>>51844423
The laurel on his head is going to be gold i was thinking. Its just primed at the moment.

>>51844427
I dont know what else to add warm wise. I figured yellow would look weird next to all the gold. Would purple be a better choice than the red?
>>
>>51844784
I think so? Cheap super glue works fine for me most of the time.

Probably you'll need a medium brush, a small brush, a thicker drybrush, and a mega tiny brush for doing eyes and stuff. Don't pay more for nice sable brushes while you're still learning the basics.
>>
>>51845020
A little bit. Maybe even white?
>>
What lamp do you guys use for your workstation? I'm looking at either this one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016LTTS8S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=534RTKAC7SO0&coliid=I2SHYARCRUKYEY&psc=1

or this one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CQ0L6WM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=534RTKAC7SO0&coliid=I11Z99MCIQLQ68

Currently. Also some recommendations for organizers that I can user for paints and things would be nice, since I just have cubbies attached to my desk currently.
>>
>>51845025
is there a brand I should go for?
>>
>>51842218
>>51842262
I'll second this, I go between 5 and 10 generally. Err toward fewer rather than more. My first big batch paint was basically all of the marines out of the Deathstorm box, plus a tactical squad, and it took me six months to get done. Flash forward a bit, and I've painted half my Necron army in less than three months.
>>
Should I get a 40k army that may very well get squatted in 8th edition or cosplay
>>
>>51845507
Buy the same value in original flavour pringles.
>>
>>51845518
I'd have to buy it over time though and consumption would be time consuming as well.
I couldn't buy it in bulk like I would one or the other because expiry dates.
>>
>>51845507
Which are you talking about? At worst armies will just have their units rolled into larger factions.
>>
>>51845593
One of two lists, both Vraks Renegades but from very different spectrums. One being the standard rapier laser heavy selections with wyverns/quadmortars and Heralds Anarchic formation with a palanquin sorc, relic rhino for initiative and fire raptor or 180 decked out infantry with max special weapons and a renegade baneblade for Unending Host formation
The first list gets a bad wrap but I wrote it long before it's topped LVO. I'd only use it for competitive play.
>>
>>51845678
Forgeworld stuff will stay pretty independant of whatever mainstream GW does. If 8th is a big enough change to render IA books unusable, which I doubt, then FW will probably release supplements to keep their stuff playable.
>>
>>51842709
Based Duncan to your rescue, anon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HbJIrH-QHV0
>>
>>51844391
It weirds me out because it doesn't follow the heraldric rules of tincture; gold and silver (white) shouldn't occupy the same space. That said, it looks well painted.
>>
>>51833397

To my utter shame, I've spilled Nuln Oil twice.

The first time, I thought to myself, "Why do these fucking retards spill their pots all the time? Are they Michael J Fox?" and then I knocked over my Nuln Oil and lost about 25% of it.

The second time I thought "Well at least I'll be more careful from now on, I should never stab myself with a hobby knife or spill a pot of wash again after the first incident. After all, fool me once, shame on YOU, full me twice shame on me." And then I spilled 50% of my current pot.
>>
>>51845507
>actually caring about the rules for this shitty, imbalanced game

I don't understand why people do this UNLESS your current army is min/maxed and top tier. Because otherwise, you're not going to beat these faggots anyway so why bother? I gave up trying to compete with scatbike WK Eldar and Riptide spamming Tau and now I can

- Enjoy using the models I want
- Never have to go "Too bad I can't do this because of X formation or Y restrictions or Z terrible rules"
- Have the coolest and fluffiest army in the store
- Not get upset if I don't win because I wasn't going to win anyway

And most importantly

- Never have to give a shit about what GW does regarding editions or rules changes.
>>
>>51844820
the right ones are from the normal company champion bits from the command squad.
The one on the left dude are from chaos marines with the icons taken off.
>>
>>51846240
c u c k
u
c
k
>>
>>51846225
I've knocked over the bloody nuln oil as well. Lost about 75%, gotta buy more..
>>
>>51846240
The better solution is to just not play the shitty game at all.
>>
>>51846308
I bet a lot less people would paint miniatures if they were only for display

Might as well just do Gundam or buy pre-painted anime masturbation statues at that point
>>
>>51846341
I do both of those and paint tiny toy soldiers.
>>
>>51846354
>not masturbating on the tiny toy soldiers

You disgust me.
>>
>>591846018
I had no idea these "rules" existed until now. Ill have to tweak my design
>>
>>51829338
Don't eldar transfer sheets come with thorned vine decals? I feel like all venoms need twisted thorned vines
>>
>>51833101
Is that how some people get nice highlights?? I thought the pros freehand that shit. I cant imagine painstakingly crafting masking tape masks for every edge
>>
>>51836070
Fuck the standards back then. Mfw i found a "how to paint citadel miniatures" from early 2000s and more than half the minis being showcased had shite paintjobs
>>
>>51846341
I play Deldar, what do you think I do with them?
>>
>>51844094
My 9 year old daughter's looks much the same except she put a little blood for the blood god on the ball and rust on the sword.

You need to step up your effects.
>>
>>51842801
Hmm the terrain is kind of weird. Almost like those stormcast are going out of their way to awkwardly clamber over as many rocks as possible. Maybe youd want to ass more substance to the terrain?
>>
>>51846959
you better post some pictures.
>>
>>51846986
can anyone post pictures? i keep getting upload failed
>>
>>51847014
yeah me as well
>>
>>51847021
>>51847014
I heard you can post pics if you have a 4chan pass, goy! Buy 'em up and help support the site!
>>
>>51846721
>Fuck the standards back then. Mfw i found a "how to paint citadel miniatures" from early 2000s and more than half the minis being showcased had shite paintjobs

Back when painting for fun was hobby, and not a competition?
>>
>>51829251
I don't get the whole "thin your paints" thing. Is this some ironic meme? Why would you want your paints to go on all streaky and blotchy like that? Why waste forever trying to build up a solid colour like that?

If the paints weren't meant to go on at the consistency they're sold at, they'd be sold at a different consistency. Stop driving away new hobbyists by making them feel ashamed of their painting, you memetard faggots.
>>
>>51846886

Tiny gladiator matches in a scale model colosseum filled with tiny spectators?
>>
>>51846721
>Mfw i found a "how to paint citadel miniatures" from early 2000s and more than half the minis being showcased had shite paintjobs
Early 2000s? Sounds more like something you'd expect from a mid-90s GW publication.

>>51847129
Part of the fun is learning and improving.
>>
>>51836070

The highlighting, blending, and overall paintjob is still better than 99% of /tg/ right now. The sculpt on that model just happened to be garbage tier. Like, even worse than /tg/'s sculpting attempts.
>>
>>51835859
>>51836043
Where are you getting lists of bits like this and purchasing them?
>inb4 check ebay
>>
>>51847160
>Like, even worse than /tg/'s sculpting attempts.
Or most attempts at Nurgle conversions. I swear, Nurgle armies are the holy grail for garbage-tier sculptors and painters who want an excuse to not have to improve their techniques.
>>
>>51841752
Your painting is amazing, and that model look fantastic.

But those eyes are fucking terrible. Like really bad.

Fix immediately.
>>
>>51847201

Ork scratch builds too.
>>
>>51847201
Dude, just slap some greenstuff on vehicles and poke holes in it. Looks great.
>>
>>51847374
Not sure if playing along or not.

But yeah, that usually looks like you... well, slapped on some GS and poked holes in it.
>>
>>51847201
>>51847218

Nurgle and Ork conversions are my favorite parts of these threads.
>>
>>51847407

Nurgle's aesthetic is LITERALLY green skin and holes.

>mfw this WIP general during a period of no images
>>
>>51847445
Yes, but if it's done well, it looks more like festering skin that's been eaten away by maggots and bacteria, and not like a hunk of GS that someone stabbed at with a toothpick.

Nurgle conversions are easy to do, but they're hard to do well.
>>
>>51847445
>>51847534
i think the most commonly recognised problem is people greenstuff things 'onto' vehicles, instead of making it look like corruption is coming from within. nurgle is the god of corruption, and that should be represented. I personally like fractured armour panels with horns coming out of them.
>>
>>51847144
Maybe one day, if I ever get good at making dioramas ill dedicate one to that anon who got dubs.
>>
Any of you gents know how big a flesh hound model is and how big its base is?
>>
Where's the best place to get "junk" bits that aren't Orks?

I want to model my psyker going full Magneto and I need to model a stream of debris.
>>
>>51847948
a fair amount of FLGS will have a bits box, sometimes with a 'take a bit, leave a bit' policy

or if you want actual junk bits, some manufacturers like secretweapon will sell bulk bags of products that didnt meet quality assurance, so they'll have slipped molds or air bubbles, but you get like a kilo of bits for twenty bucks
>>
Anyone ever mount a crisis suit on a clear plastic rod on the base? If so, any tips? Going to try that tomorrow
>>
>>51841048
Watch Duncan's videos on the Warhammer TV youtube channel, they're great for learning painting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CHVvvwbbek
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0WvQL3CqAs
>>
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How thin should oil paint be for washing?
>>
>>51848622
Thin enough that it runs into the crevices with no effort, but not so thin that it has poor coverage.
>>
Any chance you guys know or share a source of video guides for miniature painting? Looking for commercial stuff like The Complete Painting guide to Miniature Painting by Miniature mentor or Jennifer Haley videos. Kisses
>>
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>>51848753
>>
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Still an asston of detail work to do.

Send help.
>>
New thread when?
>>
How do I keep brushes viable for longer than a handful of painting sessions?
>>
>>51849337
>longer than a handful of painting sessions
holy shit what do you do?

Brush maintenance 101
>never let the paint go up in the ferrule. That splays the tip. Cannot stress this enough. If the paint gets up there and dries up in there the brush is fucked.
>form the tip before and after using it
>don't use the tip to stir or mix or anything like that. Use the brush handle or a toothpick.
>don't use your good brushes for metallics
>don't use your good brushes for drybrushing
>clean your brushes religiously after using them

Not much to it really.
Synthetics have a shorter lifespan by default though. But they are cheaper.
>>
>>51849414
>If the paint gets up there and dries up in there the brush is fucked
not if you clean your shit with acetone
>>
>>51849476
natural hair and acetone doesn't do well with each other. It's gonna get brittle.
And synthetics are just gonna melt in acetone.

So yeah, it's fucked, even if you clean it.
>>
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>>51849090
>New thread when?

9:00 AM Central time.

>>51849581
>>51849581
>>51849581
>>
>>51849595
>It's gonna get brittle.
yeah, but it's not perma-fucked.
It'll save the brush for a little while longer.
>>
>>51847130
If you have to try it yourself to understand, then do that. It's not hard - just dip your brush once into water and swirl it around in the paint each time you add a new color to your palette. It doesn't make the color weak or blotchy, and it preserves a lot of detail on the models. I don't know why they don't just make model oaint a little thinner, but it's universal and not just kimited to Citadel paints, so maybe there's a reason.
Thread posts: 337
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