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WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Thread replies: 336
Thread images: 97

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Work In Progess "Now with Flesh Eaters Johnny!" Edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
>Currently offline

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>We stood at the edge of destruction, and would have fallen... if not for the might of The God-Emperor and his Angels of Death.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivXS-58a2EE

>Previous Threads:
>>51794564
>>51770055
>>51756957
>>
>>51812544
You could do with filling in some of the other colours, you're missing black in quite a few areas and it appears monotone as it is now.
>>
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So working on my Baal Predator and just gonna do a quick job on the inside before closing it all up and working on the outer layer. I'm just stuck on how much detail I should put into this thing. Goal is that when you look into it it actually looks like troops have been in and out of this thing so I was thinking of some Stirland Mud. Also looking for some thoughts on what else I can do with it to make it look swanky. I'm considering maybe changing the bench colours to black or metal. Maybe even put in some insignias an purity seals.
>>
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>>51812978
>Flesh Eater Johnny
Who made him? Where are you brother?!
>>
>>51812978
So I'm thinking of mixing and matching parts from a Sternguard squad, some Tac Marine pieces, and a Mor Deythan squad to make a more unique-looking Sternguard squad. Yea or nay?
>>
>>51813044
I wouldn't go nuts with mud inside unless you're doing a muddy theme, maybe just weathering powder to make it seems dirty.

And speaking of weathering, some chipping on the floor and bench would be cool, and maybe even areas of worn out paint and bare metal where the asses would normally be.
>>
>>51813044
For a predator it should have spare ammo boxes, fuel, and/or an upgraded engine for the sponsons and the main turret.
For a transport I like having jerry cans, ammo boxes, or grenade boxes, and usually a techmarine's.
Put some paint chipping where the most footsteps would be, make the seats black or dark brown. Those doors should be gunmetal
>>
>>51813120
*usually a techmarine's helmet lying around
>>
>>51813120
Nice, will see if I can find some stuff I can use for ammo boxes and such. Or at least learn how to make them. Doors will be an issue as it's hard to reach in that far with a brush, awkward angle. Was gonna do the rear door with a hazard pattern on the frame.

>>51813100
Chipping I can do.
>>
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Finally got some bases for my new terminators!

>>51813060
Don't think he's around anymore
>>
>>51813043
Thanks for the tips, I'll go back in to add more shadows/black
>>
>>51813165
Took me a second, good kek anon
>>
>finally found that bit I lost a month ago
FUCK YES, WHO'S GON' GET A NEW HAT!?
>>
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>>51813292
forgot pic in excitement
>>
Oh boy I'm having fun with this.
>>
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>>51813519
>having fun

That's the spirit!

>>51813096
>more unique-looking Sternguard squad

That's the name of the game, anon. Sternguard are veterans of countless battles, entrusted with the artifacts of their chapters and bearing armour embellished by the chapter's artificers over decades or even centuries of heroic service. Every one of those ladz should look mighty special!
>>
>order $5 worth of magnets
>$12 shipping

What the actual fuck? Is it always like this? Where do you guy get magnets?
>>
finished my pond and took a daylight photo pic. before
>>
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I'm sorry I'm not sorry.
>>
>>51813704
after
>>
>>51813720
can we get some xenos inquisitor tryouts?
>>
>>51813737
If I had any on hand, we most certainly would. My friend has some Eldar and another has some 'nids.
Before my time is up, both a Broodlord and Eldrad will try out for the Inquisiton. Give me time though.
>>
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Think I am happy with thise for now, will just do a little more on the panel. Tried to give this thing a little more personality. Does anyone have a tutorial on how to make ammo crates and flamer tanks?
>>
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>>51813165
My auspex tells me he's close, watching us.
>>
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Would Ironjawz with charcoal skin and this color green armor be cool, or no?
>>
>>51814021
I think you'll be getting some Salamanders "KANGZ" memes.
>>
>>51814060
So it's a good idea, is what you're saying?
>>
>>51814021
>Salamander Orruks

Do it. You can add Seraphon lizard scale bits to them too.
>>
>>51813519

Needs a black background instead of white, since the photos are a bit dark.
>>
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>>51812978
WIP im stumped, im going to convert some cowboy themed flash gitz and Ive got everything covered except what to use for an appropriate gun.

Any any appropriate sized steampunk or western themed guns that may be useful as a starting point?
>>
>>51814281
Why not just greenstuff a revolver spinning chamber on the big shoota?
>>
>>51814281
I think anvil industries has some very large revolvers
>>
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>>51814281
i have to say that hat is less "its high noon" and more "top of the morning to ye, guvner'
>>
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Inspired by a thread, I'd like to convert some IG dudes in feudal looking guardsmen.
Any tips on the bits?
>>
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>>51814455
Another Pic
>>
>>51814455
maybe scion bodies with Skitarii Vanguard heads?
>>
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>>51814505
That makes something much more like Arbites unfortunately.
>>
>>51814455
If Brets weren't discontinued I'd suggest them.
Empire bits work ok if you don't mind them looking more renaissance than medieval.
There might be a few other medieval or fantasy 28mm games you could use though.
>>
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>>51814393
Im really trying not to get to that point if i dont have to.

>>51814425
>anvil industries
Those are perfect for the bandolers of pistols.

>>51814438
And after some quick checking those are perfect oversized pistols to work off of for the larger guns.

Thanks anons, I was worried I wouldnt find the right bits, ill post pics in the future when I start them.
>>
>>51814581
man looks baller but not what we're going for, Maybe Frostgrave soldiers could work? they look a little more ramshackle, might work for conscripts
>>
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>>51814455
>>51814469
I made a handful of pic related out of Perry Miniatures and cadians bits. The proportions aren't perfect but no worse than a lot of 40k and if you got hold of smaller arms (like death korps for example) they would be better. Overall I think they look good but I got distracted with other projects.
>>
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Does anybody have both VMC Dark Sea Blue and P3 Coal Black and could post a side by side comparison of them?
>>
>>51813692
From the internet for $17 including shipping and handling.

But you could try to look for a supplier local to you; even if you are in the states your odds arent great. We're the only people shopping for this stuff in non-industrial quantities.
>>
>>51814818

I actually found 200 3mm/1mm magnets on ebay for $1.50. They're from china, but even if they're shit, I only paid $1.50.
>>
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Working on some rocky terrain pieces. The boulders are pine bark with some heavy dry brushing, I'm pretty happy with how they're coming along
>>
>>51814752

That guy on the far left looks like his feet hurt.
>>
>>51814840
i like the slight discolouration you've added with the warm tones
>>
>>51814281
Lovely hat you got there mate.
>>
>>51814581
Damn that looks great. Where the legs from?

I'd take some Genestealers Cult legs, they even have some padding.
>>
Is it true that primer needs to be left to cure for a day otherwise the evaporating solvents will fuck up the paint's adhesion?
>>
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>>51814840
And done for now. Can't decide if I want to add some areas with grass/flock or not
>>
>>51815065
depends on the primer and the environment but generally it doesn't take a full day. If you use an airbrush to primer instead of a rattlecan it dries very very fast (5 minutes at most) and there are less fumes.
>>
>>51813692
aliexpress
>>
>>51812978
question from someone new to /tg/ and unfamiliar with the board culture
what is johnny? what's behind the meme
is is just a particularly silly classic sculpt that became a meme?
>>
>>51815317
Forced meme shit, just ignore it.
>>
>>51814752

>huge arms and hands
>chicken legs with dainty little feet
>>
>>51815317
>is is just a particularly silly classic sculpt that became a meme?
Basically. Thanks to the limitations of shitty 1980s sculpting technology, he's holding the magazine for his bolter up to his ear. People thought it made him look like a psychotic who thought the mag was talking to him, hence Johnny.

The name could be a reference to the "Here's Johnny!" scene in The Shining, since psychotic killer and whatnot.
>>
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My first Custodes Warder. It's only in the basecoat phase. What colour lens and gems should I do?
>>
>>51815528
greeeen
>>
>>51815528
is he riding a used condom spraypainted black

has he been fighting slaanesh daemons?
>>
>>51815356
Mate I posted it as a suggestion and acknowledged they need smaller arms and even suggested what smaller arms could be used. They aren't even wip I haven't touched anything IG in months. Thanks for the feedback though.
>>
>>51815698
I get what you're saying, but why the fuck not just use smaller arms?
>>
>>51815676
Haha no just poster tack, because I'm doing the base seperate.
>>
>>51813692
Wellparts of Zuzzy magnets.
>>
>>51815811
Because it was 5 guys made as a test with parts I already owned. And actually they look okay in person. Not everything matters, there's no reason at all to fixate on it.
>>
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>>51814455

Have you seen the stuff made by Anvil Industry? They sell sci-fi "Medieval", "gothic" and will soon "WW1" bits.

Here is a quick mash up of their bits from their Regiments Designer . I think it looks close to the artwork you posted.
>>
My buddy is getting me the Secutarii Hoplites upgrade kit as a birthday present. I've never worked with FW resin, or resin at all for that matter. What do I need to know?
>>
>>51813939
>actually doing the inside
Why?
>>
>>51815528
If you're going gold on black: blue glowing
>>
Im building an army that is supposed to be slavers and slaves. Does anyone have some good miniatures for the slavers? Im thinking guys with chains and whips. That kind of stuff?
>>
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>>51815935
>>
>>51815896
Wash it in warm soapy water first, or paint might not stick proerly later on.

If any things bent or warped, hold it over steam, or dip it in very hot but not boiling water, and quickly reshape it.

If you have to convert it or cut any resin, wear a mask.

Other than that it's like working with plastic.
>>
>>51815115

unless you're imagining these are on a rad blasted, venus tier hot, atmosphereless planet... then yes, they would be covered in lichen, moss, small tufts of grass yes.

just don't go overboard
>>
>>51815979
What kind of mask? I'm assuming I'll need one to get the bits off their sprues and trim mold lines, yes?
>>
>>51815361
>The name could be a reference to the "Here's Johnny!" scene in The Shining, since psychotic killer and whatnot.

Njet.
Johnny 2x4 from Ed' Edd and Eddy. Johnny talks to an inanimate plank of wood, simply called Plank.
>>
>>51815986
I think that's a bit of an exaggeration. Not every rock outcropping on earth has shit growing on it.
>>
>>51816012
Just a dust mask will be fine I think, or just do it right next to a fan and have it blowing away from you.
>>
>>51816040
Okay, thanks.

I'm looking forward to it, the hoplite models look fantastic and I hope I do them justice! I need to use super glue to attach resin to plastic, right?
>>
>>51816044

Affirmative
>>
>>51815929
"Because it's there."
>>
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HE WALKS AMONG US, A GOD AMONG MEN!
>>
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>>51816306
Seriously though ,look at that benevolent smile, LOOK AT IT!
>>
>>51816306
>>51816315

Someone on a "professional" painters salary in Nottingham can afford to holiday in Australia.

Weird.
>>
>>51816334

He was sent on a mission by GW to enlighten the locals in the southern hemisphere of the good news about using multiple thin coats and smooth clean lines.
>>
>>51816334
If you book in advance you can get a ticket for about £600 ~ £700 return. Its not that hard to save money if you plan with your finances.

I'm on minimum wage currently and still have money to go on holiday.
>>
>>51816334
If a person can afford Warhammer then he can afford a trip to Australia. Trips are only expensive if you're a doofus.
>>
>>51816368
>If a person can afford Warhammer then he can afford a trip to Australia.
As long as he doesn't actually plan on buying any GW products IN Australia.
>>
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>>51816315
>>51816306

We don't deserve Duncan.
>>
>>51813519
Wait, are you telling us that Bluhd Rehvens are descended from Flesh Eaters now?
>>
>>51816334
currently contracted 12 hours a week and been in Australia since December. Saving and planning m8
>>
>>51815935
FW Renegade Enforcers kit came with a whip iirc. If you can find them the first (as in RT era) plastic IG had one legs/body that was hunched over, and the HW arms particularly suited a 'chain pulling' pose I remember seeing a diorama way back wher the modeller had ten of them pulling a rhino with a marine atop whipping them.
>>
>>51816374
Maybe he's running a sideline smuggling minis to the antipodes in empty paint cases...
>>
>>51816374
>he doesn't spend all his vacation money to poofters, sheilas and shitty beer
>>
>>51815935
Try dark elf corsairs. Got some whiplike implements, chain-swords (a sword that is literally a chain) and so on. Dark eldar might also have something.
>>
>>51814455
Empire greatswords have sallets helmets
You can find medieval helmets in the free company box and the bretonnian man-at-arms box
Empire handgunners can give you some bullets and medieval-ish guns to convert
>>
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Some progress on the Knight-Questor for the local Hinterlands campaign.

Still a bit of work to do, obviously, but I'm pretty happy with the pose now. Many thanks to that anon that suggested twisting his leg around. That took some effort and a good amount of greenstuff, but it improved the pusture considerably.

I dread working on the cape. I don't do well when it comes to flowing materials like that...
>>
>>51814505
>>51814581
I'm totally doing that to all my scions!
>>
>>51812978
Would it be gauche to kitbash a Johnny out of modern plastics, /wip/?
>>
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Progress on my Skaven team. 2nd Gutter-runner done.
>>
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>>51814505
>>51814581

Scout torsos are good for arbite conversions too.

Bretonnian helmets might be your best bet though as >>51814598 suggests, but coming into them is hard going at the moment. I happened to get a bunch of them in a bitz haul I picked up on eBay, but they were mislabelled as empire parts. I'm also thinking of doing a feudal world guard conversion, so if you hang around this thread often I might be able to keep you updated with how it goes.
>>
>>51816567
I love your metal and the posing is nice as well. Keep it up.
>>
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>>51816576
I think some guy did it already, but Johnny's comedic aspect comes from hidshelmet, because it looks so much like he has an arched eyebrow, and his hunched position gives him that mad/malicious aura.
>>
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>>51816638
>>
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>>51814281
3rd party bits dealers are probably your best shot.
If you are super lucky you might be able to find an old GorkaMorka blister with grotguns.
>>
>>51816657
GS cults legs are the best choice for me. I love the padded look which, according to the designers, is meant to be a reference to Stealers chitin.
>>
>>51816694
Welp, looks like I'm making a Mexican Orc team.
>>
>>51813725
i still hate that frog model... don't know why
>>
>>51816720
You've been indoctrinated by (you know who) with subliminal messages about war on memes.
>>
>>51813309
Lol I remember you losing that. Congrats on finding it.
>>
>>51813720
You HAVE to leave it on the servo skull, that's amazing.
>>
>>51816638
>>51816681
you really need to start resizing your pics.
>>
>>51816947
if its true then i am happy memes are overused
>>
My first attempt at NMM failed miserably. I can't seem to get a clean and crisp blend. What am I doing wrong?
>>
>>51817058
One better: model a mechadendrite tipping the hat.
>>
>>51817383
thin your paints
>>
Alright, posted a few threads ago about wanting to build a custom AdMech Archmagos.
Got his fluff down now, just need a name and the actual conversion bits now.
>Archmagos of ice Forge World surrounded by several systems entirely infected with Orks
>is a restoration and recovery Forge World tasked with getting discovered blueprints to work
>been fighting Orks for millennia non-stop testing their experiments against them
>Orks are fully convinced that the metal men can get everything to work after having new tools every other month
>Ork belief of them getting everything to work results in prototypes working on planet but means they stop working without Ork influence
>everything they turn in to their higher-ups never actually works, Archmagos never gets praise, a promotion and barely recognition and supplies
>very angry man because he thinks the orks always sabotage everything he sends out
>taken on the habit of strapping on a combat harness and smashing some Orks himself with his own personal, giant caduceus-turned-giant-Power Maul

Idea was using a Kastelan torso for the upper body, several random cables and appendages on its back as Mechandrite whips and arms and giving him a huge two-handed mace that resembles an AdMech caduceus (so skull on top). Still need to settle on some decent, non-spindly, non-Kastelan legs, arms and a Heavy Flamer bit that fits in there since I want him to carry one.

Anons suggested Onager or Ironstrider legs, but Onagers are too large and Ironstriders too slim and tall, since I want him to be about the size of Cawl.
>>
Is there a good guide to basing models?
>>
Using the Exalted Sorcerer sprue I picked out everything that had raven symbols on it. What would be a good color scheme for a Thousand Sons warband themed after ravens? I don't want to go black since it's boring and won't immediately be recognizable as Thousand Sons
>>
>>51817708
Blood Ravens
:^)
>>
>>51817708
I know it'd suck to paint, but White Ravens would be pretty dope, with blue runes and gold trim
>>
>>51817708
Raven Guard!
>>
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Question here, see pic.

How do I get those fucking highlights? Every time I get those messy shit lines.
>>
>>51817383
pics and maybe we can help.
>>
>>51817959
patience and just do it over and over again, you'll improve. Try bracing your palms together.
>>
>>51817959
practice.
>>
>>51817959
I always did a mix between drybrush and actual painting. I'd dip my brush in pain, and then tap it onto some toilet paper or envelope (it's what I use, don't judge.). From there I just drag the side of the brush along the edges.
I've also seen people paint the highlights on, then go back over with the main color to clean it up.
>>
>>51818104
>I'd dip my brush in pain
Chaos detected.
>>
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>>51817959
patience and practice
>>
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Still very much a WIP but I thought I'd try a marble effect on the crozius.

Does it look ok or should I paint over it?
>>
There's too much brown and too dark a brown. If those parts were lighter then yeah, that'd look like marble.
>>
>>51818264
looks cool, but needs to be lighter.
>>
>>51818302
>>51818308
Reckon a very thin coat of ubshanti bone over the top would help?
>>
>>51818353
Eeeh, Ushabti is probably too beige/cream colored. Maybe a super watered down White Scar coat or something of the likes? Or just whiten those parts up by hand.
>>
>>51818264
Anyone doing marble should post their reference with it, because almost everyone thinks of something different when you say marble.
>>
>>51818264
I think the marble effect looks neat. Keep it up my guy.
>>
>>51814455
Perry plastic Foot Knights should give you plenty of useable heads.
>>
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Well, here goes nothing
WIP, I recently got back into painted stuff after a four year break (back when I was a teenager). I've been painting a trollbloods battle box, and while I am okay with what I have so far, I kind of want it to be better.
How can I improve?
Please be gentle
>>
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>>51813519
>>
>>51818537
For starters, no flash when taking a picture anon. Never. It fucks everything's and will always look worse.

It might sound silly, but thin your paints a bit more. I'll use the image of milk consistency, your paint shoudl be like milk. What helped me visualise the right consistency was a dude using a test tube with water and another with milk in it. Milk would go down the end of the tube like water, but slower, and still leave a riny trace after itself. That's how your paint should behave on your palette.
I know it's tempting to try and cover everything as fast as you can but taking your time is essential.

Don't overload your brush either. Even with proprerly thinned paints, if you have too much paint on your brush it will fuck it up. Remember, most of the time, only the tip of the brush should have paint on it.
To make sure your paint isn't too watery on your brush, use a tip an anon said a couple threads back: very lightly make your brush horizontally touch your tissue, parallel to it, let the moisture be absorbed by it. Flip your brush and do it on the other side of it, again, very lightly, and you should be good. If you followed everything you should have a brush with enough paint with the right consistency. It is not a sin to go back to your pallette for more paint when you're done applying your first load, so no need to overload.

Finally, brush control. Remember to brace your wrists down on the table and stick your hands together to have a steady hand. You'll learn how to control your brush with time.

So keep at it, and keep your mistakes in mind to avoid reproducing them.
>>
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>>51818537
>Please be gentle

Lube up fella.

You're not painting inside the lines everywhere, which is the most obvious thing initially. The guy on the left of this pic is pretty bad for it.

You're painting flat colours- minis need more. Washes are an easy way to add depth, and then you want to highlight.

Your light greys and whites aren't covering well: as always we want thin layers to build up to a nice strong finish.

Check out some youtube tutorials and keep painting. Oh, and next time try to get a better photo,
>>
>>51817959
Try to paint more on the side of the brush, rather than the point.


Thin you're paints.
>>
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>>51817383
Use a wet palette, and mind the most importat tip when blending: the brush have to be humid but not wet.
>>
>>51818537

3 quick tips:-

A) Thin your paints, multiple layers
2) scrape off all mould lines
D) Invest in some washes. Or some Army Painter "Dip"

For a first paint (in a long time), they look much better than my first after returning to the hobby from a 15-year break
>>
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>>51818117
>Chaos detected.
Talent requires SACRIFICE
>>
About to make a little unit filler for my empire spearmen, is there a good tutorial about making cemetaries, tomb stones, skeletons poping from the ground, etc...?
>>
>>51816681
Resize images to about 45-50%
They're looking pretty good, now. Still like the shading style you have going on
>>
>>51818603
>>51818610
Thanks for the advice. I'm gonna try and touch up Ragnor, and give the metals a black wash. Not sure what sort of wash to use on the flesh though. Any advice?
>>
>>51819005
You could make your own with a blue ink and acrylic medium, or go for one of the GW washes, either drakenhof nightshade or druchii violet could work on trollkin.
>>
>>51818409
What about Screaming Skull, much whiter, not too white.
>>
>>51819048
Hm. Well, I don't have any ink, so I mixed trollbloods base, trollbloods highlight, and some water. (basically blue grey and water)
Seems to be okay.
>>
>>51819161
Also what colors act as a good wash for leather?
>>
>>51816306
Bought a brush and said "Bloody 'ell! These fookin' prices..."
>>
>>51818723
Thank you. It's good to be painting again.
>>
>>51816374
No joke we get ozzies coming into workshop and another model store in my city here in England who have flown over just to buy GW shit because it's cheaper to fly over and buy it than it is to import
>>
Now this is gonna sound retarded, but I've got a pretty bloody cut right now and I was wondering if there's any way to actually make use of my blood in painting. I play a lot of Khornate stuff and want to really nail the authenticity
>>
>>51815929
>>
>>51816334
He's the face of games workshop. He'll be on a decent wage for sure
>>
>>51818610
A White backdrop always fucks up the lighting in the pictures in my experience (Thanks phone). How do I fix that?
>>
How easy do you think it would be to convert the Visarch into a member of the wild hunt?

pic related
>>
>>51819586
Anon no.
I'm fairly certain that's not sanitary.
Also blood stops being red after a certain point.
>>
>>51819964

Looks fantastic
>>
>>51816694

The wall can't come soon enough.
>>
>>51819875
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4irXQhgMqg
>>
I NEED A BROTHER CRAIG!
>>
>>51819964

Really nice. Re: your question: it depends on how true to the artwork you want to be. But I think a head from the wrack sprue, shaving off the gems, and giving him a more medieval weapon would go a long way.
>>
>>51820121
Here you go.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9IYcRhiwt4
>>
>>51819875
Don't use auto anything.
use manual focus, manual zoom, and manual F-stop
>>
>>51819586
I did the same with my fecal matter and nurgle army(just a light drybrush though). Natural materials can work wonders for your army, makes the whole thing more realistic.
>>
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My Gobbo team is finally ready for a good thorough blood bowl crumping. This was a fun project.
>>
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>>51820276
>>
>>51819586
Search for Doomthumbs on DakkaDakka
>>
>>51820276
Old news are old. I was cumming on my slaanesh models way before you were into painting little soldier toys, kiddo.
>>
>>51820172
That's what's I was thinking. I appreciate I won't get picture perfect but a small long as I can get the feel I'll be happy.
>>
>>51820276
This method also really bumps up your immersion. I'm also playing a nurgle army and I invented this little trick to serve my "designated" god.
>have aids
>my firend(who plays khorne) is a frequent brushlicker
>mix a few drops of my blood with blood for the blood god paint
>gift him the pot, tell him that it would look great on his army
>little do I know he starts fielding all his minis with a thick coat of blood for the blood god
By now I gifted a "special pot" to a half of our FLGS 40k playerbase.
>>
>>51820504
oh sure, and I'm Vin Diesel.
>>
>>51820504
>>have aids
I believe this much.
>>
>>51820504
The HIV virus is extremely fragile from what I understand, and probably would not survive longer than an hour in whatever ungodly blood/acrylic paint mixture you created. Also, I don't think someone is very likely to actually contract HIV through minor contact of blood and a mucus membrane. Also, I believe this isn't real, but if it is I hope someone smashes your head open with a brick for trying.
>>
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>>51820379
Banned but not forgotten.
>>
>>51820379
>This fucking trainwreck
>Can't look away
>>
>>51816567
This is dope, really gives an otherwise boring model some character.
>>
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>>51820151
lurk ebay m8.
I was lucky enough too find two the same day. Snatched up both right quick, but ended up paying just under $40 USD in total for 'em. Haven't really seen too many since sadly. Don't worry too hard though, the OG Johnnyanon will often post links to any he sees here so just stick around and you may have a chance at one yourself. Often times the auctions are UK only though so that sucks, but hey, it's something at least.

Pic related are mine. The one on the right is in the OP image as a Flesh Eater, the one on the left I still haven't decided on.
>>
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Hey /wip/

So my airbrush was acting up and it turns out theres a bunch of paint in the nozzle (if you can see in the pic attached, just above the main body).

How would you clean it? I have testors aztek universal acrylic cleaner, should i soak it overnight or will it damage it?

This is a H&S Evolution Solo.

Thanks guys. Help would be appreciated.
>>
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>>51816021
>Johnny talks to an inanimate plank of wood, simply called Plank.

Pic related.
>>
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>>51820892
>Don't worry too hard though, the OG Johnnyanon will often post links to any he sees here so just stick around and you may have a chance at one yourself. Often times the auctions are UK only though so that sucks, but hey, it's something at least.

I was excited about this lot, eBay item 252775456062, because there are so many old First Edition beekees in it, including three squads of plastic RTB-01's and the original Space Wolf Primarch, Leman Russ.

But no Johnny...
>>
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Gloss primer shouldn't matter if I plan to paint over all of it with Abbadon Black anyway, right?
I have 2 Death Company (out of 25) I used paint-on Vallejo surface primer on and they turned out *quite* shiny. I could probably strip the bulk majority of the primer off, but the scrubbing required would probably break off a few fragile bitz and I think the repriming would end up clogging detail in the recesses that I can't scrub.
Wat do? Just paint over it? Spray some Chaos Black spray over it and hope they don't turn out PERFECTLY THINNED?

>>51821361
>those old termies in the second row
How are those?
I was thinking of getting the "Space Marine Heavy Assault" kit because hey, it's a 40 buck Black Reach Dreadnought, but I'm not sure what I could do with the 5 old Termies. They're originally models from Space Hulk 2nd ed, right? Are they semi-servicable today? Would they look out of place in a army that's comprised of mostly modern sculpts?

>>51814244
Thanks m8. Luckily the little plastic painting board I have is dark grey on the reverse side.
>>
>>51820310
amazing, love the turf
>>
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Thoughts on this paint scheme, boyz?
>>
I tried priming something with black. I think I missed a spot because the paint job looks grainy in some places and I can see a tiny hint of the plastic color through it

Should I prime it again or is it fine?
>>
>>51821943
>the paint job looks grainy in some places and I can see a tiny hint of the plastic color
Sounds like the paint was drying before it hit the model. I'd advise against repriming.
Can you post a pic of the model or describe the weather conditions when you primed? Temperature and humidity mostly.
>>
>>51821897
well dey ain't green. why come dey aint green boss?
>>
>>51821994
Green is good, but black is da ded 'ardest color of em all
>>
>>51821897
i got no qualms with them not being green but as is they are a bit monocrhomatic. the grey, brown, and beige are very neutral and so the tomato red really dominates.

if i were you i'd consider doing the markings on their armor in a different color to break it up.
>>
>>51822022
What do you suggest? As soon as you brought that up, I thought maybe bright yellow would look fine.
>>
>>51822010
black mite be ded ard its troo. But dats why ya put it on ya ard bitz, cuz you iz green cuz green is best.
>>
>>51822040
My boyzes skin is arder than greenskins, dats why deys in charge. da arder you are da arder you fall, but who we fallin onto boss?
>>
>>51821897
WE WUZ ORRUKS N SHIT
>>
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>>51821992
55 and sunny. I dunno the humidity, probably not very dry. I live close to Seattle so priming days are rare

>I'd advise against repriming.
Why?
>>
>>51822088
is not who youz fallin onto, its who youz fallin wif, its about da spirit of da boyz. nuffin more ded ard den da spirit of da boyz.
>>
>>51822129
Pick alcohol 96º
Put it in a glass
Heat it 30 secs in the microwave
Put piece inside
Put a cup so it evaporates slowly
Wait a few hours
Pick a old teeth brush and start brushing

Both paint and primer will be easily removed
>>
>>51821482
2nd row termies look to be metals to me anon. The 2nd edit SH plastics were the same as the current boxed plastic termies. Orig SH termies were one piece (Or 2 piece if you wanted a flamer, which was a plastic bit that snapped over the stormbolter.)
>>
>>51822178
yous rite about that, lad. ill figuya out if da black should be on da bitz only, not da skin
>>
>>51816567
how did you paint the metal?
>>
>>51822129
It's also really hard to take a picture of grainy-ness when your camera is really grainy
>>
>>51820892
I want to paint mine like a Blood Raven.
There is currently one on ebay but for like 38 usd. It's crazy.
>>
>>51820310
Goblin green bases are best bases.

Any close up shots?
>>
>>51822129
>55 and sunny. I dunno the humidity
Hmm, stupid as it sounds, I'm a West Coastfag too and I was just priming in 55 and raining. Humiditiy was around 91% (which is pretty bad). The guy I was priming came out mostly fine, pic related. What primer are you using? Have you used it successfully before? How far away are you spraying from? If it's a rattle can, did you shake it well enough? Has the can itself gone bad? If you're using an airbrush, I have idea what could be going wrong; I don't use an airbrush.

>I'd advise against repriming.
Simply because if it fucked up once, chances are it'll fuck up again. If you plan on fixing something, you're going to have better odds if it's only slightly fucked up than completely fucked up.
>>
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finished basing these assholes today
>>
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>>51822418
forgot pic
>>
I'm starting to remember why I loved making models, but rarely painted them beyond primer, basecoats and washes. For the first time since I got back into the hobby, I got genuinely angry today while doing the edge highlights for the green on my chimera. It's splotchy and went everywhere, despite (or sometimes it feels like because) being thinned. Trying it a bit thicker only made it stick to one spot, dry up too fast and looked like shit.

To top it all off, despite cleaning my brush in water at least every 15 seconds and thoroughly cleaning it after every single use, this brush in particular is already fucked up.

Does anyone have recommendations as to what I can do- short and long-term- or should I just go back to the bare-fucking minimum and say "fuck it" to pulling all the stops and making my shit as nice as possible?
>>
>>51819177

Agrax earthshade, look at miniwargamings videos on youtube on how to paint leather. The paints are:
Mournfang brown
XV-88
Tau light ochre
Ushabti bone
Agrax earthshade
Screaming skull.

Also leadbelcher and runefang steel for any bolts or beltbuckles.
>>
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>>51822363
Heres some of the trolls.
>>
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>>51819964

Tutorial on the black armour please for the love of god!
>>
>>51820310
The guy throwing a sod of turf is my favourite. Love your work.
>>
>>51822433
Looks dope, are those from Bolt Action?
>>
>>51822039
if i were you i'd do a blue or yellow. you could also go with a blue grey instead of a pure grey for their skin to add some cool hues.
>>
>>51822579
I would offer you advice but I have no way of doing so because I can't relate to how incredibly stupid you must be to be unable to thin paint or to buy a decent quality brush.
>>
>>51822629
you have some goddamn wizard going on there, when I look closely I can see the transitions are some what harsh but the entire product looks fantastic.
>>
>>51823134
yea they're the warlord games fallschirmjager
>>
Where are people getting these rocks (shale?) to put on their bases?

All I'm seeing are bases with it already glued in, anywhere I can just get a tub of the shit?
>>
>>51823370
Hardware store
Model shops (especially model railway, they call it ballast)
The ground
Cork bark and vivarium sand from pet shops
>>
>>51819964
Damn.
>>
Is there any trick to painting black armour easily?

I'm trying to paint Ravenwing bikers and I REALLY can't edge highlight.
>>
>>51820310
Savage orks anonette is that you? How's it going over at FW?
>>
>>51823525
You can get acceptable tabletop results with careful drybrushing and washes to tone it down, but honestly you should just learn to edge highlight.
>>
So seeing as I want to make my Biologis Reductor (Fleet-based Admech) , does anyone know a good way to get a lot of bases suitable for ships speedily? I'm not buying Sector Imperialis bases for all 120 infantry and all the other stuff, and then filing off every damn eagle. They don't need to be fancy, they're going on tabletop quality 2ppm chaff, just some metal decking or similar with a little variation if possibly.
>>
>>51823662

I've tried to learn, a lot, but they just ALWAYS come out too thick, no matter how thin my brush is or how much I thin my paints.
>>
>>51823679
Try a bigger brush with a better point, all the GW brushes have a reservoir too small for me to do detail with.
>>
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Steel is done, time to paint the clothes.
>>
>>51823525
At some point you're going to have to, unfortunately. Best thing is to do a very thin layer of black over black primer, then highlight with light grey (the GW colour is celestra grey) and then tidy it up with black again and wash it all down with nuln oil. All together it'll both add depth and minimize the effects of poor highlights.
>>
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>>51818693
OK. What am I doing wrong?
>>
>>51824027
I think your brightest reflections should be both at the edge /and/ about 2/3rds down the helmet flutes, but it still looks very nice.
Have you added any colours to flavour the steel or is it pure black and white? A little blue goes a long way.
>>
>>51821482
If something that should be matte turns out glossy, it's invariably because you didn't mix it enough before using it. But otherwise it shouldn't be a problem, because you should be varnishing at the end anyway.
>>
>>51824206
Your primer went on a little chunky. Not enough paint on that figure to offer further comment.
>>
>>51824299
All the pics of models primed with the primer I used seem to be just as glossy as the ones I have, so I'm not too worried there. I didn't think the primer when I brushed it on however, and that I'm a little iffy about.
>>
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Trollbloods guy here. So I took peoples advice, gave the models various washes, and tried my hand at hightlighting.
The shield is fucked up, I attempted to highlight that with a mix of metal paint and white paint. Clearly didn't work, so going to fix that.
>>
>>51824526
>highlighting
I am good at spell words
>>
>>51824246
Thanls for the observation, I will correct things later. Yeah, I added a subtle grey-blue glaze on the parts facing upwards, I don't want the steel to look blue because it would clash with the other elements later.
>>
>>51824206
You didn't convert the legs to be bare thighs.
>>
I'm painting orange for the first time, should I use an orange wash or sepia one?
>>
>>51814455
Some anon did vanguard heads, cadian arms and body and greatcoat legs from Victoriaminiatures and it looked legit.
>>
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Made so much progress the last few days.
This is finally in a playable condition with only the rear tanks and all minor details like pipes, vents and mini juggernaut heads to do
>>
>>51822629
Hah! I thought that looked like savage_orc_guy's stuff. Went to check instagram, sure was. That style is so distinct.
>>
>>51813519

Any chance I could get sauce on that Inquisitor model? It's not from any range I recognize.
>>
Finally finished. Didn't have the Balls to go back and fix the marble Crozius... another time maybe.
>>
>>51822418
Recently bought chaos black

I think I just didn't give it enough spray, honestly
>>
trying to make dark angels models look more like knights. does anyone know of a good 28mm knight helmet?
>>
>>51825185
Not perfect but using mk 2/3 space marine heads does wonders.
>>
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>>51825154
Hasslefree Minatures' "Justice Sedante"
>http://hfminis.co.uk/shop?product=justice-sedante~hfsf127&category=sci%252dfi-%26%0D%0Aweird-war~sci%252dfi-humans

They got another one that is pretty much the same but with a few little changes, "Salome Kohn"
>http://hfminis.co.uk/shop?product=salome-kohn~hfh101&category=fantasy-%26%0D%0Asteampunk~fantasy-humans
with hat
>http://hfminis.co.uk/shop?product=resin-master-%252d-salome-kohn-%28heretical-variant%29~hfmaster-h101b&category=fantasy-%26%0D%0Asteampunk~%2Anew-fantasy%2A
without hat

I have both Justice Sadante and Salome Kohn (w/ hat). They're pretty good models for decent prices.

>>51825170
Kinda sounds like it. Shake it up a little more and try spraying some spare sprue. If it works well on that, spray your minis.
>>
>>51821041
I have a solo. The nozzle is fairly tough and can withstand a soak in mild cleaner but don't soak much else.
>>
>>51824729

(・ω・)b
>>
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Alright, finished the Dunecrawler. Just need to now decide on what list I'm gonna use next tourney and wether I paint the Icarus Array or the Neutron Laser.
Next goal: either starting my 6 Kataphrons or my second Tech-Priest Dominus.

Excuse the image size but it's still better than posting 4 separate images.
>>
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I decided to work on a proper ye olde Chaos army. First model I wanted to work on was this guy but I'd like toms feedback.

>Skull helmet
>Chest circle will have an eye sculpted onto it
>Loin cloth and new skirt armour
>Demonic faces on knee pads

The problem here is I can't decide what to do with his arms. The left arm is definitely going to be a tentacle but I don't know what to do with his right hand.

The double arm pose feels really chaosy to me and I like the idea of it here but I'm also tempted to make the shoulder fleshy and have spikes coming out of it like his mutations burst out of his shoulders. Would give more of a barbarian impression with only 1 set of shoulder armour.

Thoughts please?
>>
>>51826196
The blue ink is messy as fuck, it looks like ink pooled.
>>
Taxmas is coming for me this week, and it looks like I might have a little extra spending money after catching up on bills and shit. So I'm looking to pick up a decent airbrush and compressor to start learning on.

>Looking to spend $100 or less, maaaybe $150 at the absolute most and even then it has to be for a damn good setup
>Needs to be idiot-proof. Like, a complete fucking potato could use it with a quick tutorial
>I'm located in the US upstate NY to be exact, so I'm not particularly keen on ordering stuff from overseas if I could help it.

Any recommendations/stuff to avoid?
>>
>>51826300
>>Looking to spend $100 or less, maaaybe $150 at the absolute most and even then it has to be for a damn good setup

Good luck. The cheapest airbrushes worth using are already $100. Same for compressor. You expect the "absolute best" setup at $150? Try $300 just for the brush.
>>
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Not very far into painting some Tzeentch wizards, am I a bad man for just going blue for my colour scheme? I've not really painted any of my other models with blue so it was nice to use it.
>>
>>51826345
>You expect the "absolute best" setup at $150?
No, I just want something that I don't have to constantly disassemble and reassemble because it was a piece of junk. Appreciate you trying to put words in my mouth, though.
>>
>>51826527
You will disassemble and reassemble literally any airbrush you buy literally every time you use it at least once. Protip: you should spend more on the compressor than the airbrush. It's far more important.
>>
>>51826527

Well you're not gonna get a "damn good setup" for $150. A simple google search would have told you as much, poorfag.
>>
>>51826345
Not >>51826300, but I had heard that Iwata Neo's are pretty solid for being around $50 airbrushes. At least as far as a starters airbrush, anyway.

You're pretty much dead-on about a compressor tho. $100 will get you a standard air compressor with an air tank, that'll keep the air flow at least mostly regulated.
>>
>>51826583
>buy a $20 brandless Chinese dual action
>only left with $80 to buy a compressor and shipping

He's fucked.
>>
Just use a bicycle tire and duct tape for your air supply :^)
>>
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Working on my Bloodsecrator to go with the Bloodreavers I posted the other day.
>>
How do I mash together a big-ass fuckin' mace with a skull as its mace head? Any recommendations what bits to get for something like that?
>>
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Do you think pic related would make some neat looking Blood Talons for a Death Company Dreadnought? I want them to be a green color, but I'm not sure what paint to use. Should I just go with multiple coats of Waywatcher Green instead? I don't have any spare primed sprue on hand to test both on.
>>
>>51827650
If you do do it, make sure to draw the paint towards the base of the claws and away from the edges, naturally after the metallic undercoat.
>>
Hey /wip/ trying to make a napoleonic style regiment of IG, here's a list of the parts I'm using thus far but there are a couple of them that I'm not especially happy with

Head
http://kirtongames.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64_160&product_id=1181

Body
http://kirtongames.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64_160&product_id=1178

Arms
http://victoriaminiatures.highwire.com/product/dress-uniform-arms-resin

Legs
http://victoriaminiatures.highwire.com/product/victorian-legs-standing

I love the parts from Kirton Games but the arms/weapons aren't quite what I want as I wanted a more 'retrofuturistic musket' feel and the legs are far too expensive for a unit as numerous as Imperial Guard infantry. Seriously, dafuq Victoria Miniatures?

I've tried buying standard GW cadian legs elsewhere and just filing the pockets off but can't find an affordable bitz store with them in stock, any suggestions for alternative weapons/legs or ways to convert them?

the epaulettes on the arms are non-negotiable
>>
>>51827132
>Bloodsecrator
That name somehow manages to be absurd even for Age of Sigmar.
>>
>>51827762
Also, before anyone points out that pic related aren't napoleonic, I know, It's just roughly what I want them to look like/paint them like
>>
>>51827769
That name is seriously right up there with Bloodtrocuted https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qbAaVid3dN0
>>
>>51827769
But dude, my Bloodbound army needs a Bloodsecrator and a Bloodstoker to buff my Bloodreavers and Blood Warriors so I can blood blood blood blood
>>
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JUST
>>
>>51827991
How do people keep doing this?
>>
>>51827991

Washes are the only time I like Citadel pots, but once my short pots run out I'm going to have to start pouring the tall pots of Nuln Oil into droppers or switch to Army Painter Dark Tone.

I've accidentally spilled even the short pots, losing about 50% of the contents, even though I always thought I would be careful enough to never stab myself or spill pots.
>>
>>51827991
https://youtu.be/ZMmKUTxLms8?t=41s
>>
>>51828030
I thought the same fucking thing until 5 minutes ago. Shit fucking magnetized to the side of my desk, I swear to god.
>>
Anyone have any tips on weighing down specific sides of bases for things like minis that leans forward too much?
>>
>>51828030
Retards painting from the pot.
>>
>>51827991
>Your pots are open for more than the few seconds it takes to get some wash onto a palette.

Pic related an artist's impression of the guy who spilled agrax fucking everywhere when I was in GW.
>>
>>51828122
I just use nickels.
They fit under even 25mm bases and are heavy and cheap
>>
Just wait a few months for GW to start selling Official Citadel Premium Gyroscopic Paint Stabilisers for people still dumb enough to buy GW paints. Only $30 each.
>>
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>>51821482
>those old termies in the second row
>How are those?

Personal opinion? They're butt-ugly. I can't believe they'd still make and try to sell those when the current multi-part kit - or hell, even the cookie-cutter Assault on Black Reach models - are *so* much nicer-looking.

I must admit, I have a squad of five, but only because they're already painted so I can be lazy and play Space Hulk with them.

>I'm not sure what I could do with the 5 old Termies. They're originally models from Space Hulk 2nd ed, right? Are they semi-servicable today? Would they look out of place in a army that's comprised of mostly modern sculpts?

That's a pointed question, anon. You might not want too much advice from someone whose army has First Edition beekees fighting alongside Fifth Edition plastics... all with nice green flocked bases.

>51822191
>2nd row termies look to be metals to me anon.

They're the same ones as the Heavy Assault box: the plastic multi-part models from the Second Edition Space Hulk, which were later sold in boxes as squads of five. That's why the only heavy weapons there are heavy flamers.

>The 2nd edit SH plastics were the same as the current boxed plastic termies.

They most certainly aren't.

The current boxed plastic terminators *have* appeared in other sets, though. The Deathstorm box had a squad of them and wanted you to pretend that they were unique Blood Angels characters with their own special roolz and everything, but the assembly instructions are from the vanilla box, so they're shown there with Ultramarine markings (HERESY!).

>Orig SH termies were one piece (Or 2 piece if you wanted a flamer, which was a plastic bit that snapped over the stormbolter.)

As much Oldhammer stuff as I have kicking around, though, I actually *don't* personally own any of those ladz. The one exception is the Librarian with the force axe that has been sitting partially-painted in my bitzbox for at least 15 years now.
>>
>>51828235
The nickle is so perfect for this it's scary

Just wide enough to snugly fit under the base and just thin enough to not raise the base.
>>
>>51828235
Hmm, cool. The ones I got right now are slot bases so need to modify something and I'm in Europe. American currency is a collector's thing so I hope the 5c euro coin is good enough.
>>
Is picking (off) white as your primary color a bad idea for a newbie painter?
>>
>>51827991
Better than me. I once spilled an entire pot of Typhus Corrosion on the keyboard of my $2000 laptop. Needless to say, that was the last time I ever painted in bed.
>>
>>51828521
Why the fuck were you painting in bed
>>
>>51828499
Just be smart about it. Watch videos, do research

If you're the sort of beginner who doesn't bother to educate yourself before you make a whole bunch of stupid mistakes, yes it is a bad idea
>>
>>51828534
it's comfy.
I have a bad back, and it helps to lay on my stomach.
>>
>>51828499
Not worse than anything else as long as you do not prime black.
>>
>>51828568
I've spent a few weeks painting and I can get a perfectly even and opaque coat of light tan over black just fine.
>>
>>51828499
White (and yellow) can be very hard colors to do for stupid painters, not really new painters. As very light colors, people often tend to paint very thick layers in order to get a solid color rather than do multiple thin coats for the same effect. If you DON'T do the former, then you should be fairly okay. However I still feel they'd be harder than another color like red or blue. Your choice.

>>51828521
Ouch, I'll count my blessings then. I do think I ruined my jeans though. Why couldn't it have spilled all on the carpet? That's getting torn out any week.
>>
Hey y'all.

I posted this Putrid Blightking in a previous WIP-thread and just wanted to let you guys know my progress on it.
Since last time I've retouched his skin by adding anoter wash to it, redoing the boils and sores and then added a fair amount of Nurgle's Rot (freshly bought and never tried before!) to it to enhance that Nurgly feel.
I've also adjusted his stance so that he's not close to falling over any longer.
Any C&C are highly appreciated!
>>
>>51828664

Forgot to attach the pic...
>>
>>51828600
Paint long enough and you'll get paint on EVERYTHING you own.
There's paint on my floor (hardwood, so it's no big deal, though it could use refinishing), my jeans, many of my teeshirts. All of my notebooks have had their covers used as pallets. etc etc.
>>
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What color should I paint the medic patch that says "HEKIM" and has a crescent moon logo on it? Brown? Blue/white? Green? Some other suggestion?
>>
>>51828664
>>51828681

While I'm at it I might aswell post some other minis I've been working on. Feel free to C&C as much as you like. I need all the help and input I can get as I'm new to the hobby.
I'd especially appreciate any tips or pointers you might have regarding the application of the paints Blood for the Blood God and Nurgle's Rot.
>>
>>51828664
>>51828681
>>51828730

And finally my Nurgle Lord on a very much WIP Palanquin.
>>
I'm trying to paint brass bolter shells. Balthasar base, Brass Scorpion highlight, then Fleshshade wash is a good way to do that?
>>
>>51828600

I myself use an old worn-out t-shirt and sweatpants as an impromptu painting smock for just that reason.
>>
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>>51828790
>I myself use an old worn-out t-shirt and sweatpants as an impromptu painting smock for just that reason.

You can tell the quality of the artist by the quality of his smock.
>>
>>51828767
I'd go with Warplock instead of Balthasar and Agrax, but yours will work.
>>
>>51828895
>Warplock
Unfortunately I don't have this one on hand. Thanks for the advice though.
>>
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>>51828548
>>51828600
>>51828568

So, if I go with

Corax White Primer
Mechanicus Standard Grey basecoat
Nuln Oil wash
Ulthuan Grey/Pallid Wych Flesh for very thin layers
Praxeti White drybrush/highlights

I should be good?

I'm hoping for a sort of pre-Heresy Luna Wolves feel to these guys, but I'm trying to assemble a list of paints I need to get that sort of sickly blue-gray off-white color, and I'm definitely not working from experience.
>>
>>51818693
That model is a Dark Apostle conversion waiting to happen.

And I shall be the one to do it.
>>
>>51828235
What do you use to secure the nickel? Just superglue?
>>
>>51828722
Red moon, white background. Like the actual Red Cross. If you didn't know, the Red Cross adopted the red crescent symbol alongside their namesake so that Muslim areas couldn't claim it as a holy symbol that was being used in spite of them, despite it just being a reversal of the Swiss flag. Love, medicfag.
>>
Why the fuck are there a million tiny bubbles in my paint? It wasn't doing this yesterday.
>>
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Aight, working on my custom Archmagos. Got this as the torso and torso pose so far. Mounted on Cawl legs only for showing the pose and the axe is also only there as a placeholder for the mace I want to build for him.
Any ideas for a head and legs? Was thinking for the head to maybe use one of the Datasmith heads or the Ruststalker Princeps head. Also still have some Kataphron Breacher heads left that I could maybe use. Just need to figure out how I could mount it properly inside that giant torso.

Anyway, main issue is what kind of legs would be fitting. Did reconsider using Ironstrider legs in a "full sprint" pose and armoring them up more than they normally would be. Maybe toss some cloak over them too. Thoughts?
>>
>>51829031
>>51828722
Alternatively, you could do a subdued style and paint it in the colors of the guy's uniform/armor with the crescent being the darkest color of the camo pattern and the background of it being the lightest color. Just thought of that while looking at the patch on my bag.
>>
>>51829036
Is it a red or brass color? Maybe even a white or a blue? If so, that's normal. It's just simmering with rage.
>>
>>51829075
That's a pretty fucking /fit/ magos.
>>
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>>51828979
Just superglue. I've yet to have one break off.

>>51828952
>Corax White Primer
Corax White (and Chaos Black) spray isn't technically a primer. While it often has enough bite to be *used* as a primer, it's actually not.
If you're an ameriburger, get pic related. It's not only a primer, but it's also 1/4 the price of the Citadel junk for the same quality. Get it at Walmart. Otherwise Corax White will probably be fine, just make sure to varnish your guys after.

Anyway, moving on
>Mechanicus Standard Grey basecoat
That's a fairly dark gray. For reference, it's dark enough that even when I paint it over black primer and it'll be a solid color in ~1.5 coats. If I wanted to end up with white outside the recesses (where I'd assume you'd want the Nuln Oiled color to remain), I think I'd go with Celestra Gray instead, especially if I'm going to dump oodles of Nuln Oil all over. Nuln Oiled MSG looks more black than white.
>Nuln Oil wash
Sounds fine.
>Ulthuan Grey/Pallid Wych Flesh for very thin layers
Either of these would work really.
>Praxeti White drybrush/highlights
Sounds fine.

Good luck anon.
>>
>>51828876
Considering my smock is composed of pic related I'd say that I'm quite the masterworker then.
>>
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Working on this venom. How's it look? Any way I can make it stand out more? Kinda looks plain but don't know exactly what to do because add freehand of the ynnari symbol, and there isn't much room for that
>>
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Here's the back
>>
Bump limit reached.
New thread at >>51829251.
>>
>>51829220
>>51829233
Add hotrod flames
On a more serious note, maybe add something to the front tips
>>
>>51829265
Fucking retard.
>>
>>51829075
Figured I might as well try the Ballistarii legs. Imagine a cloak thrown over that if I can figure out how to do a decent one with greenstuff and a bunch of mechandrites and shit coming out from the back. Probably also gonna add some random smaller arms and stuff I might have lying around all over the model but that's just regular AdMech decoration

>>51829165
He's supposed to be smashing Orks up personally to let off steam and use his modified Tech-Priest Caduceus as a giant Power Mace. Can't do that with a frame like Cawl.
>>
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>>51821041
How much paint is a bunch? If a nor ma cleaning brush doesn't cut it, they sell a nozzle ream specifically for the H&S nozzles. Give it a good soak to soften the paint then scoop it out.
>>
>>51829173
>ameriburger

We prefer the term Hamerican.
>>
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>>51828979
>What do you use to secure the nickel?

Find a way to secure the model upside-down, then fill the base with PVA glue. After it coats and envelopes the nickel, it will shrink a little when dry. This results in a pretty good fit.
>>
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first attempt
>>
>>51826196
It looks like it would sink on that base.
>>
Redpill me on fine-tipped paint pens.
>>
>>51829684
What advantage does that have over just superglue?
>>
hows my laughterpriest looking /wip/
>>
>>51830050
laudable
>>
>>51829979
>What advantage does that have over just superglue?

It seems to be a more solid bond, although there have been occasions where dropping the model or otherwise treating it roughly has dislodged the entire weight (coin + glue) from the base.
>>
>>51830050
>laughterpriest

Lol

>>51830090
>PVA glue has a stronger bond than cyanoacrylate

Lol
>>
>>51828960
dude from calth works pretty good too
>>
>>51829173

Thanks, bro. You're awesome and you should keep being awesome.
>>
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>>51827991
I know that pain, then fixed the problem.
>>
>>51830381
>those almost empty purple and blue

I know those feels after transferring. Even brand new pots only go like 75% full.
>>
>>51822673
Fucking this. Please I need this
Thread posts: 336
Thread images: 97


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