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WIP: Work in Progress

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Thread replies: 349
Thread images: 98

File: photo.jpg (55KB, 375x500px) Image search: [Google]
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Put paint on small things edition.

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
>Currently offline

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw [Embed] [Embed]

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU [Embed] [Embed]

>Frakken Magnets, how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo [Embed] [Embed]
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Previous thread:
>>51732834
>>
>>51753204
Wow, that sure is something else...
>>
SHOW ME YOUR TERRAIN
>>
>>51753677
Oh deer.
>>
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>>51753677
Ok.
>>
>>51753875
That's a pretty well painted guardsman you've got there my dude.
>>
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Posting again since new thread, and no feedback from last thread. WIP. C&C?
>>
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>>51753947
Still have the blade, highlights to the red sections, wash on the silver, straps painted brown and the basing to go.
>>
>>51753947
Nuln Oil.
>>
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>>51753900
>>51753677
Thanks! I did him as part of a challenge here on /tg. I'm currently painting an Autarch friend for him to hang out with and tour tiny destroyed cities.
>>
>>51753974
over the whole thing? I've seen nuln oil used a lot lately, so have been thinking of picking up a pot. How does it compare in shading to Devlan mud? Asking since I already have that.
>>
speaking of terrain, my friend told me an old WD had a guide on how to make a kind of ogre thunderdome arena, would anyone know what issue that is, or have any tips on making a little arena, for stuff like killteam and hinterlands games
>>
>>51754043
top left is nuln i beleive
personally i prefer agrax earthshade for most things
>>
>>51753960
>>51753947
The highlights on the cloak are way too thick, and the black in the skin is a bit too stark, might be better if it were a bit thinner
>>
unfinished (and somewhat orange) ruined fort made out of a chunk of castle-shaped polystyrene.
>>
>>51754060
oh good, I have two pots of Badab Black. The name change threw me off. Glad I didn't get a pot after all.
>>
>>51753647
thanks for the constructive feedback famalam xD really loved this post!
>>
>>51754089
Noted. Will work on both issues.
>>
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>>51753677
>>
>>51754132
very nice, are those from a kit? i've been after some fantasy style terrain to fit a town for a while
>>
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>>51754147
Well you have the Laketown bunde houses at 70 pounds, that can make for a nice city, or if you need a graveyard, the garden of Morr is a favorite of mine.

Is it me, or did GW used to have a lot more fantasy terrain/houses/etc before AoS? Shame they scrapped those ones.
>>
>>51754104
Nice shitpost. Honestly though I don't even know where to begin, it's like someone posting a picture of a drawing where they haven't even grasped the concept of how to colour inside the lines. How do you explain to someone how to colour in the lines, without using that phrase because they clearly haven't understood it already?
>>
>>51754262
lol o ya well ur gay
>>
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>>51753677
>>51754147
Thanks! And, no, those and he house pictured are all scratch-built from balsa wood, foam core, sheet styrne and wood-filler putty (except the barrels and boxes).
>>
>>51754246
>>51754268
>>51754290
Anon, are you having a stroke?
>>
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>>51754358
>>51753677
Yes.
>>
>>51754246
>>51754268
>>51754290
>all those tries
>still missed the "t" on "the"
>>
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>>51754384
>>51754358
>>51753677

Ya'll just mad jelly of my extra autism.
>>
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Reposting these guys, just need to be based.
>>
>>51754596
dont think splinter guns have shells
>>
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>>51753677
>>
>>51754755
Looks great but what's with the divots?
>>
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>>51753677
>>
>>51754203
The houses there are a bit to nice and orderly for it to fit in Warhammer imo. Needs to be a bit more contorted and warped in like the foundation is fucked up
>>
>>51754819
Those are for Lord of the Rings.
>>
>>51753947
don't use a black inline to separate two pieces of flesh on a miniature. it looks weird, unless you are going for a cell-shaded look. Instead use brown or a darker skin colour.
>>
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>>51754789
Early attempt at making a hill. I wanted something more visually interesting than a flat 90-degree drop (I don't do sloped hills since minis just fall off all the time anyway). I have moved on to doing hills like pic related. I want clear-cut edges to the hill for rules purposes. I can just make an extra 1" support stand if a model needs to have it's base over the edge.
>>
>>51754716
It's battle field debris
>>
>>51754877
I actually am going for the cell-shaded look.
>>
>>51754912
It doesn't translate very well as is. Will wait to see the finished product, in that case.
>>
>>51753947
I gotta agree with the nuln oil crowd here. Dude is real small, so you could base, wash the oil on and paint beyond the recesses to get a similar effect. The paint looks way too thick in most places as it stands. I like what you were going for and I dont want you to stop, but I suggest trying out a different method or thinning your paints a bit more. hard to build up to that light brown from black, I'm guessing.
>>
>>51754972
yeah I'll give the nuln oil/badab black wash a go, then touch up the highlights, see if that helps transition things a bit more
>>
>>51754882
Stealing this idea
>>
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>>51755000
Good luck, anon.


Also, reposting from last thread.
>>
>>51755028
Oh damn, that was you? Yeah, I'll definitely be taking your advice, not that I wasn't going to anyway. They look amazing btw.
>>
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First ten of my headtaking cannibals.
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>>51755750
>>
>>51755750
Pretty solid work mate.
>>
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>>51755750
Forgot to say the base rims still need tidying up, but I'm torn over black or something else, like a Steel Legion Drab?

>>51755895
>>51755926
Thank m8s.
>>
I remember seeing a tutorial for making barbed wire out of mesh, but can't seem to find it anymore. Does anyone know a similar one?
>>
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Painting a leman russ for the first time. Next step is shitloads of mud.
>>
>>51756077
https://youtu.be/jIX7EmiOsro

The Terrain Tutor is generally the go to for, you guessed it, terrain.
>>
>>51756156
Sorry, looking for the wire-mesh method, not the regular wire method.
>>
>>51756194
He does have a part on mesh though. It's very short, but you can even see the mesh on the video's miniature.

Look around 3 minutes in.
>>
>>51756129
>that tiny muzzle
come on m8 it's a heavy bolter not a peashooter
>>
>>51756279
If I had bigger drillbits then obviously it would be bigger. I'll just have to paint it black for now.
>>
Hey guys, what do people usually use for a base when building scenery? I know it's some sort of foam but what kind? And there was also some kind of board needed but I can't remember that, either.
>>
>>51756517
Styrofoam
>>
>>51756553
It wasn't styrofoam. Something else. Installation foam?
>>
>>51756566
>Installation foam?

Insulation foam. Pink stuff, you get it in big boards. MDF would probably be the board.
>>
>>51756517
http://privateerpress.com/hobby/hobby-blog/trollkin-waystones

This blog post talks a lot about basing materials.
>>
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>>51753974
I noticed Duncan doesn't use Agrax Earthshade as often anymore.
>>
>>51756575
Like this? http://www.homedepot.com/p/MDF-Panel-Common-1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-500-in-x-49-in-x-97-in-988531/206512481
>>
>>51756668
Do you put anything under it for steadiness? Like cardboard.
>>
>>51754094
That's coming along very nicely.
>>
>>51756387
just use a pointy modeling knife and use the tip like a drill and then once you have a decent-ish hole you can make it look tubular
>>
So how thin should I make my Pallid Wych Flesh in order to get a good even, on-chalky surface on my vehicles?
>>
>>51756850
*non-chalky
>>
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>>51756801
Yeah good idea, I'll give it a go. If I fuck it up I'm going to REEE at you though despite it being entirely my fault

First stages of mud are done.
>>
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Not mine, but I just witnessed this in my local GW
>>
>>51756973
Hope your GW is ok after the earthquake anon.
>>
>>51756973
Phone number? I'm calling in a deathstrike.
>>
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>>51756973
>>51756991
>>
>>51756991
I was too autistic to ask if I could take a photo so I rushed it please kill me
>>
>>51757006
There are not panties anon, you don't need to be careful nor stealthy
>>
>>51757030
>there are
Wow, I'm tired
>>
>>51756731
If you're making something fairly squat like a hill or solid building, then there's no need. Just leave the bottom of the foam piece flat. Use a base if the terrain itself would be tippy or fragile, like ruined buildings, trees, tall industrial thingamabobs, etc.

MDF or masonite works well for a base. Foamboard would be okay for some stuff. Balsa wood or other types of thin wood lathe work for relatively small pieces like objective markers or short sandbag bunkers.
>>
>>51755750
Love that you have taken the time to paint different skin tones. Good work anon, pretty solid.
>>
>>51756684
Says something abut the UK that I can't get a board like this for anywhere near that price. Even 2x4 MDF boards seem to be priced at around £14... so about $20 each. :P
>>
>>51757276
That is literally the only size like that in my area. Everything else is unavailable. My home depot is a shithole, haha.
>>
>>51755750
Great work on the weapons and skin.

Why the darker skin tones though? I'm not familiar with the AoS lore but they were from the frozen north in WHF.
>>
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I never hear people talking about vallejo premium. I bought these 3 some months ago, the white is very thin and it need a lot of coats but i guess it happens with all the whites. But the blue green and specially the black are top level, excellent coverage, prethinned(a bit of water dont hurt though), dropper bottle and airbrush ready.
Have you tried these?
>>
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What do you guys think, should I paint the bumbs on the back wanes, and other parts of the wraithknight as gems as well?

I am unsure if I should do that, and if I should go with purple, blue or green gems.
>>
>>51757320
They offer their prisoners the chance to either feast on their former comrades or be the feast, so in AoS they should have a real mishmash of peoples. Also doing the same flesh is boring as fuck and I wanted to learn to paint different skin tones.
>>
>>51757410
if you painted all of those bumbs as gems it would look insane

and i like insane
>>
>>51757276
For an ork bastion I went to a thrift store, bought an old clipboard and chopped the metal assembly off. 9 x 12 inch chipboard (mdf?) sheet for one dollar.

If you go to a framing shop you and asj about backing-board remnants you might get cheap ends and scraps of foamboard or similar material.
>>
>>51754925
Consider the light source - usually from above - and focus your darkest colors on the opposite side. For example, the top half of the tail would be "segmented" in lighter colors, with only the underside using black. Still a bit heavy for my tastes though.
>>
>>51753875
http://www.tinyworlds.co.uk/blog/swamp-scenery-basing/
>>
>>51757537
So, I take it that you don't like the base for the oil spill?
>>
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>>51757442
>>
>>51757586
Oh, it's supposed to be oil? Yeah, I have never tried oil because the rainbow shine effect sounds too complex.
>>
>>51757605
This is how Aeldari should always look.
>>
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>>51757636
Can we please stop with that aeldari shit?
>>
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Okay, so for the anon who asked yesterday I'm going to post some photos and go over the recasting process with blue stuff. Today I'm going to be remaking my jump pack mold to include a left arm bolt gun I need, and I'll be posting the process as I go.First things first, you need a frame and a press, which I make out of Legos. This is very important. You really can't make good molds without these. Trust me, I tried, and then an anon was kind enough to enlighten me. My frame and press can be seen on the right. We'll get started on the mold itself in a minute once my blue stuff has softened.
>>
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>>51757811

Next, and I'm sure you already know this part but I'm just going to post in sequence as I go for those who aren't familiar with the process, put the blue stuff into the frame and spread it in. Then press the parts you want to cast into the blue stuff. After that you wait for the blue stuff to cool and harden. Do not put on the other half of the mold before then.
>>
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>>51757920

When the first half has cooled take the second half and spread it over the parts and the first half. Then take the press and put it on top of the blue stuff in the frame. Press down firmly on the press with the palm of your hand. This pushes the blue stuff tight against the pieces, meaning it gets flush and captures the detail. After you've pressed it down firmly let the mold sit until cooled.
>>
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I want start painting my Dark eldar and eldar start collecting sets.

The Dark Eldar id like to paint like pic related but I have no idea how to get this effect without hours of careful brush work. Is there a simple way to do it?

Also want to paint a start collecting Eldar kit (probably red too as it is combined eldar armor color)

But I dislike sam haen and most eldar craftworlds.
>>
>>51757995

>Is there a simple way to do it?

No.
>>
>>51757995
>without hours of careful brush work
But that's Fun*
>>
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>>51757979

Now the next step is to remove if from the frame and then pull apart the halves once they've cooled. Once you've done that you take the back half, the part of the mold you made second, and ypu put it back in the frame and put the pieces into it. Once you've done that you take the first half and put it back in the hot water. When it's pliable again you put it back in and recast it using the press to force it tight against the pieces. After this has cooled you repeat that step. Recasting each half of the mold a few times front back front back front back. This creates a superior mold. Hope that helps anon. If you have any more questions or that didn't make sense please ask and I'll try to make things more clear.
>>
>>51758064
>>51758095
I'm still new to painting what would be a good way to paint decent looking red armor?
>>
>>51758208

Watch some duncan vids. The one on painting the visarch might help.
>>
>>51756684
No, the rigid insulation foam that people use for terrain is this sort of thing:

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Project-Panels-FOAMULAR-1-in-x-2-ft-x-2-ft-R-5-Insulation-Sheathing-PP1/203553730
>>
Anyone have a good guide for painting emerald or jade? Trying to do a NMM green breastplate and I want to see some color choices. Moot green was not working out for me.
>>
Does anyone know where to get sallet helmets?

Looking for some to use in my Skitarii army.

pic related
>>
>>51758499
Vanguard helms are sallets, last I checked?

If not, Anvil Industries does some "Gothic Void Helmets" that might be close enough, although they're a little off.
>>
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2nd squad is done
>>
>>51758573

I'm looking for something a bit more flared in the rear of the helm, more like a stahlhelm.
>>
>>51756957
That is way too much mud man.
>>
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*screams from Dawn of War intensify*
>>
>>51758656
If there's so much mud on your tank that you can't see the tracks...

You might be a redneck.
>>
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Ready for painting.
>>
>>51757806
You mean shaeti?
>>
If I were just planning to build some barbed wire or if some wire and sprews, what should I use for the base? The insulation foam or will just regular cardboard do?
>>
>>51758137
>Recasting each half of the mold a few times front back front back front back. This creates a superior mold
I love how there isn't a scientific explanation on why that works but it actually works, it's like we're motherfucking mars cult
>>
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Guys I need your advice

So I'm making my Stirland Greatswords Banner. I don't know if I should make :

>The heraldry of Alberich Haupt-Anderssen with his name on the banner
>The heraldry of Alberich with "STIRLAND" on the banner
>"Victory or death" around a skull
>"Stirland" around a skull

If it can help, I still have 4 more banners to make for the regular state troops
>>
>>51758499
The Empire greatsword box has 2 sallet helmet, with optional gorget
>>
>>51758912
>I love how there isn't a scientific explanation on why that works but it actually works
A scientific explanation is a poor replacement for faith, brother. Praise the Omnissiah!
>>
>>51758869
ok I chuckled
>>
>>51758912
>but it actually works
I don't know. Still seems like bullshit to me. I don't understand it.

>>51758673
Death Company colours are so sexy.
>>
>>51757320
>army of aggressive bad guys
>wonders why there are blacks in there
>>
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What do you guys think would be he best way to repair the hand on this model? He's missing most of his thumb and pinky fingers. Drill small holes, insert some metal rods, and green stuff over? Replace the whole hand with another? Leave it and try to pass it off as battle damage?
He's going to be my Mephiston proxy for my Flesh Tearers so I'd like him to look fairly nice.
>>
>>51759118

Exactly what I need, thanks.
>>
>>51759193
>I don't know. Still seems like bullshit to me. I don't understand it.
We all said that at first
>>
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Alright, finished that part of my Dunecrawler. Not entirely satisfied with the white armor, but I did what I could.
Really gotta get an airbrush some time this year to properly do large surfaces, especially freaking white.
>>
>>51758912
When you've already done it once or twice you're displacing less mold material each time so you will get finer detail with the same amount of pressure.

I mean ,++OMNISSIAH VULT++
>>
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>>51758844
Double primer? I'm not the only one doing that then..
>>
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>>51753629
Picked up painting GW minis again after a 10 year hiatus and my minis are coming out as horse shit. I don't what I'm doing wrong.

I primed using Krylon matte black primer/paint. Thinned my paints and started doing darker to lighter for highlighting but my minis are looking flat as fuck.

I think I'm not highlighting properly or carefully enough where my highlights are covering too much area and not allowing depth. Also I think I need more shades for each color. For example for purple I have two paints. I try thinning the darker one over the black and then thinning the lighter purple and then using a full swipe of the lighter purple on the edges but it looks like dogshit.

I need some tips. Anything.
>>
>>51759517
>>51759533
Wasn't really convinced on the conversion, I like that I have to swallow my own words, it looks awesome.
>>
>>51759092
>The heraldry of Alberich with "STIRLAND" on the banner
I like this option the most.

>>51759591
>but my minis are looking flat as fuck.
Have you washed them?
>>
No "How to Pain - Ironjawz"?
I'ms sad :(

Btw, there's a way to merge epub into pdfs?
>>
>>51759517
>>51759533
Lovely conversion, though not entirely convinced on the pose and proportions, though I suppose that's nothing you could have done anything about.
>>
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>>51759252
>He's going to be my Mephiston proxy for my Flesh Tearers so I'd like him to look fairly nice.

Mephiston has a plasma pistol and force sword. The model you have chosen has a force sword left arm, so you could simply lop off the damaged right hand and replace it with a suitable right-handed plasma pistol
>>
>>51758656
It'll look better once it's on the display board. It's WW1 trench warfare themed with dkok and Imperial fists.
>>
>>51759721
I could have been more careful with the head. Am glad that it still works out.

The pose, yeah agree, that was lame to begin with. Could have chosen another model, but the ABH somehow called out to me, probably because of the head.
>>
>>51759635
>Have you washed them?
With soap and water? No. At what point should I do that, when the paint dries?
>>
>>51759735
>Mephiston has a plasma pistol
Oh yeah. Kinda forgot about that. Thanks m8.
>>
>>51759801
You can wash them before painting if they're dirty or if there is some remaining chemical oil, happens with FW minis. What anon talked about tho was the act of putting ink on your mini to shade it, like agrax earthshade for example. It feels the gaps and holes to give your mini some more depth
>>
>>51759801
I know you're probably trolling but I'm just going to reply earnestly. Obviously you wash the minis with soap and water before painting to remove mold release agents but you should know that already. I mean washing the minis with a shade paint like Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade.
>>
I'm pretty new to painting, and I'm sure this is a very stupid question, but just to be clear, the Citadel Base Coat sprays are not primers, right? The friend who was teaching me how to paint said they were but it doesn't look like it.
>>
>>51759959
I know that their Chaos Black and Corax White are meant to be used as Primers. Not sure about the other ones, though I'd like to know as well if I can use their Leadbelcher spray like normal Leadbelcher but to quickly cover large surfaces.
>>
>>51759959
They and be use do on their own or with a primer.

>no primer = whatever colour it is
>white primer = brighter base colour
>black primer = darker base colour
>grey primer = mix between the two
>>
>>51759959
Your friend is full of shit. They aren't primers.
>>
>>51759995
They can be used*

Fucking spastic autocorrect
>>
File: Not!Mephy.jpg (407KB, 1348x1792px) Image search: [Google]
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Rough first attempt at this.
His left shoulder is kinda fucky. I thought I could shave off his existing pauldron and fit another on but it looks like it's smaller than the standard. Going to have to green stuff it up. How does the pistol arm look? I can't really aim the pistol downwards, so I'm just going to play it off like he just fired it I guess.

Thoughts?
>>
>>51759686
What specfically do u want to know? How to paint orc skin?
>>
>>51759686
Are you daft, mate?
https://youtube.com/watch?v=uNP7p5smZyQ
>>
>>51758902

Either cardboard, or thin strips of wood or plastic. Foam won't have enough strength to hold together if you cut it down to flat strips.
>>
>>51758844
What mini is that?
>>
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>>51760162
>not duncan.
>>
>>51758749
"When I said we'd be heading into the shit, Corporal, I meant it quite literally."
>>
>>51757410
I don't like to paint them all on mine, It just looks way too busy and distracts the eye.
I paint them here and there though.
>>
>>51760195
Not him, but that's Percival from Kingdom Death.
>>
>>51760004
The other replies made it seem like they can be used in lieu of primers, is this the case?
>>
>>51760313
Ignore him anon, he doesn't know what he's talking about.
>>
>>51760352
I'm more confused now than I was before I asked.
>>
>>51760374
You don't need a primer.
>>
>>51760380
So just use Chaos Black spray to undercoat then?
>>
Hey /wip/.

Im working on a slaanesh army and are using some converted Eldar models.

I want to make their soulstones either look drained or corrupted.

I know of those cool GW gemstone colours but how easy is it to get a similar result but in purple. I guess I Can just mix soulstone Blue with Spiritstone Red to get a Purple?
>>
>>51760395
Yes. Or white. Or don't bother undercoating at all and just go straight to the coloured spray. I've always done this unless I want a specific tone for the base coats and I have literally never suffered adverse effects.
>>
>>51760463
It might be cool to have some cracked, too.
>>
>>51760313
Sorry. I must have gotten bad information. Just ignore me.
>>
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Did a little conversion and paint job for a freinds D&D character. Took 3 hours from start to finish.

What do you reckon?
>>
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Basecoated some Word Bearers that will work in both 30k and 40k.

The idea is they're a 'normal' tac squad in 40k, and a 'veteran' squad in 30k who have been extra corrupted by the warp.

Ignore the random strands of blu-tak that also got sprayed. I removed them and it looks completely fine.

Shoulder pads and weapons will be done next, but I'll prime them straight black.
>>
>>51760774
Speedy work. The static grass and texture texture paint is not a good look and the foam shrubbery isn't great either. Otherwise it's fine.
>>
>>51760774
Looks pretty good. You might want to consider adding a second highlight to the edges of the holes and a deeper shadow inside them.

Also are the eyes supposed to be flesh colored?
>>
>>51761100
Yeah the base isn't the best, but he wanted a woodland theme and I didn't have much to hand.

>>51761102
He's not bothered about mega detail, just wanted something presentable. I don't paint eyes, I just wash the recesses. Pretend hes squinting or something
>>
>>51761102
>Also are the eyes supposed to be flesh colored?

There's a school of thought that says shouldn't try to do eyes beyond pooled flesh washes unless you're at Golden Demon standard, and it works for tabletop standard stuff.

I tend to do them on single minis that I'm taking my time over because otherwise you never learn, but the learning experience does turn up some surprised looking bastards along the way.
>>
>>51761102
>Also are the eyes supposed to be flesh colored?

Those are the bottom of his eyelids fyi.
>>
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Continuing to quickly paint figures from the Mansions of Madness board game
2 Maniacs and 2 Cthonians done, up next - Hounds of Tindalos
>>
>>51761573
They look nice anon. Good job.
>>
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Trying my hand at green stuff for the first time , and got a little adventurous with some I had left over.

What do you guys think of my attempted flaming sword?
>>
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I'm not sure what I want to be my renegades, the actual renegades models with cadian arms/legs, Death Korps or something else. I need about 200 of them Thanks for making this possible China
>>
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What's your most dreaded part of your dude's paintjob? What do you hate to paint, but it just tickles your fancy enough to keep on?

Mine is sept symbols on drones. I hate freehanding circles, and straight lines are annoying too.
>>
>>51762125

Cheats: use a ruler for lines and a small bead for the rings. The drones are big enough for that to work
>>
>>51761977
Looks nice, now string that bow!
>>
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Converting some Black Reach Terminators to a Lightning Clawed Assault Squad. How do these poses look?
>>
>>51762527
Why the hell does the guy on the far right look like he wants a hug.
>>
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>>
>>51762527
>Eiffel 65
Kek

>>51762555
>dab trips
Now that's just silly.
>>
>>51762385
I was thinking it would be easier to do after painting, not done it before so I'm unsure
>>
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>>51753677
First bit of terrain. Its hard.
>>
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>>51753677
>>
>>51762554
He got very self-conscious after being so shit in 7E. He needs someone to hug him and tell him it's gonna be ok.
>>
How much suffering would a newfag to painting be in for if I start out on an army that isn't Space Marines/Eldar/Necrons?
>>
>>51762659
Depends on the army, how much previous experience you have at painting, and how good you want your army to look there, bub.
>>
>>51762555
No.
>>
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Any tips for 12 year old me lads?

Got to strip some of these mighty fine gentlemen. I have no idea what I was thinking
>>
>>51762659
Tau are easy. Big flat panels with large panel lines. The more cartoonish looking the better.
>>
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>>51762895
Need to do some stripping but this is the start of a Chaos dwarf army. Idea is have 50 or so night goblins captured by 25 Chaos dwarves and a group of Black Orcs.
>>
>>51762895
underage b&
>>
>>51762895

You were twelve, you probably weren't thinking.
>>
I am currently working on my thousand sons. However I have an unsettling inquiry doubt.

Should I paint the second guy from the right - its crest - into blue? or should I live it like it is?
>>
>>51763008
Blue and yellow, just like your guy on the left
>>
And this is how they are turning out. I should paint the backpacks but I want to do them way after I am done with the initial 5 man squad.
>>
>>51763020
I tried to do it like that originally but it wasnt working. I used a reference from the actual GW eavy metal model and they painted it all gold as well.
I am thinking on just painting it blue?
>>
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>>
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>>51758443
Never got a reply but that's okay. I switched from a brown shade on the green to a blue and it's working much better. I've got a ton more work to do on the armor, but hopefully I'll get it to at least acceptable looking like the sword is.
>>
well here is my linup. Gotta do another rubric, then perhaps the sorcerer and then my TS dreadnought - now it will play as a maulerfiend sadly.

I am trying to see if I can get another FW ranged weapon on ebay for the dreadnought. Cause I only have the lass canon, I bought this almost like 13 years go!
>>
>>51763153
>he actually fucking drybrushed them
holy shit I thought you were just le epic trole
>>
>>51763516
There's no drybrushing on there, bud
>>
Anyone read the Skitarius novel? There's an (Arch)magos Explorator as one of the main characters who'S described as having a hulking, heavily armored body and weaponized body and I'm considering to do something like that for my own custom Forge World's own Magos.

What should I use to get that across? Kastelan Robots would probably be the easiest solution for such a model's core body, but I feel like just that with a Tech-Priest head on top would be way too boring. Any suggestions what could be done to get the arms and lower body more intricate and interesting? Want to put him on the same kind of base that Cawl is on to be able to proxy him, so there'll be more than enough room for any funky suggestions to use as a "Tech-Priest built to shoot and punch things to death himself".
>>
>tfw my old-ass busted brush I used for drybrushing is so old and busted now that the bristles don't even move anymore

Oh boy.
>>
>>51763577

Put a kastellans torso onto a dune crawlers legs if you can. I think that would look interesting. Have the big robot arms, and then have the human arms coming out of the front of the chest like little t Rex arms, and make some doc oc tentacles out of the back.
>>
>>51763516

What's wrong with dry brushing?
>>
>>51763577

Or give it ironstrider legs. That might work better actually.
>>
>>51763625
He's memeing
>>
what wings would fit well onto the stonetusk?
>>
>>51763608
>>51763643
I like that idea, but I'm not sure if the Dunecrawler legs would even fit on the base, even if put closely together. The Ironstrider concept sounds more feasible, though I feel like that might give him some really weird and comedic proportions.

How tall are Sentinel legs? Don't really want the legs to be more than twice as long as the torso. I do like the "tentacle arms, t-rex arms and big robot arms" idea, though.
>>
>>51757410

I can really admire the technique, but I have to say the scheme is horrid. Sorry.
>>
>>51762603
>>51762619
Looking good mate! Almost too good to game on. The small additions like the mesh help sell it as a proper ruin.
>>
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>>51762938

I would strip some of the classic Chaos Dwarfs but why not get some picture related for the Hobgoblins rather than go to all that effort?
>>
>>51763625
Frequently misused by newbies.
>>
>>51762555
>le ebin dab meme

kys, millenial.
>>
Test
>>
>>51763690

For the tentacle Arms maybe you could use the spine scorpion tail of that one dark Eldar thing.
>>
>>51763770
I have some russian alternative chaos dwarvs on the way
>>
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This is breaking all rules of miniature photography, but here's my progress on my blood bowl kroxigor. Orange didn't come out well in the photo, unsurprisingly.
>>
>>51763841
You mean Talos tails? Getting several of those is gonna be a pain and probably cost a fortune, though I do like the thought of what it might look like.
>>
>>51763885

*Shrugs* I'm the lunatic who bought a fifty dollar kit because I needed one bolt pistol, and another 50 dollar kit just for a few heads. I'm really not the guy to talk to about conversions. When I see something cool or that I think would work I do it, even if it kills my wallet a bit. I can't help it.
>>
>>51763925
I mean, I'd maybe consider buying a kit for a single bit, but realistically I'd need upwards of 4 of those tails to get a proper "mechandrite arms" feel from them and buying that many Talos kits would be way too much. One I can understand, since you can usually find ways to convert a single model worth of bits over time but having so much of the same kit is just never going to all get used.
>>
>>51763945

Can you into blue stuff?
>>
>>51763945

And I think three wouLD be sufficient, though four would be ideal. Get one on the left and right and one coming up over the top.
>>
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>>51760115
>I thought I could shave off his existing pauldron and fit another on but it looks like it's smaller than the standard.

I experienced just about the same thing.
>>
>>51763956
The most I did in that direction so far was using green stuff to fill gaps and make sockets for magnets.

>>51763972
I just checked the kit and noticed that they also have those whip looking arms. Could maybe buy a single kit, use the main tail as the cannon mechandrite coming over the shoulder and the small ones as additional mechandrites coming out from the back.

I'll think of a concept of what I'd need and if I can get that stuff in a reasonably easy manner. Thanks for the suggestions so far, gonna look around if there's maybe some arms and legs to be used as alternatives. Should still have all the Breacher bits from my Kataphron box left, might be able to do something with those as well.
>>
>>51764033

Look at bit sellers, maybe you can get it for cheap.
>>
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>primer sputtering then stops
>notice this later

what the fuck is going on here?
>>
>>51764060
Can's dead. Might explode. Throw it out, buy a new one.
>>
>>51764060
PAINT GRENADE
>>
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>>51764051
Put these on my bucket list so far. Sadly, the only thing these guys don't have is Kastelan bits for some reason and I really don't want ot use the second one of those that I still have no assembled for a conversion when I don't have one unit of them yet.

Price seems alright, just need to then find a way to put those Sentinel legs onto a Kastelan torso and add the arms to the back in a good way. Maybe try to make a green stuff robe to cover the back with those things coming out from it to cover the fact that it's only a handful of arms.
>>
>>51763625
Drybrushed marine armour looks like garbage.
>>
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>Trying to make a fucking cast of a gem from Eldar and space marine sets I have, that way I can use gems and put them on stuff
>Keep getting fucking airbubbles and since the gem is so tiny, it gets contorted and destroyed when pulling it out of stamp

Fucking how do I make gems to put on armor?
>>
>>51764202
Good thing I didn't drybrush my DAngels
>>
>>51764247
Just make them out of plasticard
>>
>>51764267
I feel that it'd be waaaaay to small for that, do you think it's even possible?
>>
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WIP conversion on cold ones into salamanders
>>
>>51764278
If you've got small/fine enough equipment to cut out the ovals of plasticard then file them round.
It's not easy, but it's kinda that or greenstuffing them from scratch, because casting something so small is gonna be harder.
>>
>>51764250
I never said you did. Your dangles look okay.
>>
>>51764311
As okay as a drybrushed model can look.
>>
>>51764332
This faggot
>>
>>51764351
Not him, but he's right tho.
>>
>>51764399
Nigger, they aren't drybrushed. Not even a little. Not one surface in that army is drybrushed thusfar. I'll give you the plasma guy's highlights are trash and that he'll likely need to be stripped and redone, but saying that they look bad because they're drybrushed is an outright lie because they aren't drybrushed at all.
>>
>>51760848
looking like a good starting point, quick question where's that head from the marine in the front right from?
>>
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>>51764415
(cont.)
For reference, here's a marine that is actually drybrushed. Just so you might know what the fuck you're talking about
>>
>Use Vallejo Black Surface Primer as a brush-on
>Seems to do the job well, but want to try white to see how it affects the color scheme's brightness
>Vallejo's White Surface Primer is thin beyond all fuck
>Two coats and can still see a spots of grey peeking out from under
Is this supposed to be happening?
>>
>>51764415
>>51764434

Well, either they're extremely dusty, with very bad highlights that make the armour look like shit or they're drybrushed, either wat they're shit.

No need to get all "RRREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE it's not drybrushed you fucking faggot kill yourself" over your mediocre models.

Remember, getting angry about everything can give you diarrhea, and over time develop into anal cancer.
>>
Are GW's gemstone paints just gloss glazes?
>>
>>51764611
yes
>>
>>51763160
Looking good.
>>
>>51764290
Looks cool so far. I prefer dark elf cold ones to lizardmen, they just look too goofy.
>>
>>51763945
http://www.ragingheroes.com/collections/tgg/products/nepharya-necropriestess-ie

you could use the base arms, and probably quite a few other bits for decent conversion work
>>
Only bought a leadbelcher for basecoating but these citadel air metallics really are quite smooth for regular application.
>>
>>51764653
I agree, but I had extra minis from my SC box.
So my options were have an extra understrength unit of knights, wasted models, or convert them into something else.

Got the idea form another anon on this site, but he just painted his and left of the riders, and I'm not settling for that.
>>
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For any guys looking to convert haywire blasters here's some i made outside of the warrior blades on a heat lance thing.
Puts me at 4 haywire blasters with leftover warrior bits for my 1 box of scourges
>>
>>51764709
Oh shit, that's also one fucking awesome model for such a conversion. Gotta bookmark that for later, thanks a ton.
>>
>>51764749
scourge boxes are pretty godlike for getting extra bits. and their pretty cheap.
used mine for kitbashing into aspect warriors, and 4 boxes of scourges got me 12 hawks, legs for 8s banshees, weapons for 10 fire dragons, weapons and heads for 8 dark reapers, chest pieces for 5 warp spiders, some melee weapons and pistols for the banshee.
All for less than $100.
>>
>>51764290
>Coney Island Hard Root Beer

My nigga
>>
>>51764642
Thanks man.
>>
>>51764817
No worries. I have it bookmarked too. They have some stellar models.
>>
>>51764711
Should have gone with vallejo model air metallics or metal colour if you want to see smooth.
>>
>>51764893
I shall try their balthasar equivalent next time I do a shop
>>
>>51762895

I'm curious what that lemon-lime color scheme would look like if it had a proper paint job.
>>
So I need to scrape primer off of a small part of a resin model so I can glue something onto it. What kind of tool should I use to damage detail the least?
>>
>>51764849
trying Sprecher hard root beer which I got because it was on sale, it is not holding up to the Coney Island.
>>
>>51765365
toothbrush after simple green soak
>>
>>51765409
Simple green damages resin and I only need the primer off of a small part of the model, not the whole thing.
>>
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>>51754047
>>
>Friend has an airbrush
>Want to ask him to prime my stuff for me
I really should get one and get a set-up that would let me work inside.
>>
hacked up some old sprue and the odd dagger and sprue chunk to make piles of treasure.
>>
>>51765590
That is such a cool idea. I'm taking it.
>>
>>51765590
>>
>>51765600
given that treasure piles are like four dollars each in resin, and this is literally sprue, it's very cheap. from idea to painted gold it was about a half hour for the two of them, and i made another while the gold dried. you could embellish them with some coins or things if you have the patience, too.
>>
>>51759888
>>51759931
Not trolling just being facetious. Thanks guys I actually picked up some Nuln Oil and Agrax earthshade from my local hobby store today. So should I still do layering and highlighting and then shade them?
>>
>>51765649
wash after doing the layers but before doing highlights
>>
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>>
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>>
>lost one of the hatches from a alpha pattern russ
What the fuck do i do.
>>
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>>
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>>
>>51765711
Different anon, but should I change the order I've been doing
>The Fang Base
>Nuln Oil wash
>Russ Grey Layer
>Ulthuan Grey Highlight
>>
>>51766108
sounds fine, i mean washes are a pretty subjective thing to use, you can use them anytime really. theres no strict order. i should have specified you can use them over certain layers or not, etc, really however you like
for example my flesh is
bugmans glow
cadian
wash reikland
layer cadian again
>>
>>51753947
>>51753960

If you're going for an extremely stylized, cartoony look, borderline cel-shaded, it's looking pretty good so far.
>>
>>51766288
he is, end of last thread he said he was aiming for a cel-shaded look
>>
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>>51763977
Hey, it's biblibby.
I actually saw your model a while ago and based mine off of it. I chose a different piece for my bib (a reference to an old Librarian proxy I had way back), but the thought behind it is the same.

Everything on him is glued except for the arm (green stuff I used to fix the shoulder pad dilemma is still drying), but he should be ready for priming tommorow.

An egregious errors I missed on this guy? Anything I should improve?
>>
File: IMG_20170217_055027.jpg (3MB, 4160x3120px) Image search: [Google]
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Visor will be reattachable, to be finalized at a later time.

Fin
>>
>>51763883
Looks better than the Lizardman Tyrant from Reaper I'll be using. But, the Tyrant also doesn't come with an $85 huge lizard attached to it.
>>
How do you Blood Angels players do your red?

I spray on/base-coat with Mephiston Red, wash with Caroburgh Crimson, drybrush with Astorath Red, then highlight with Evil Sunz Scarlet mixed with a bit of Ceramite White
>>
>>51766442
Ah, I almost forgot, I also glaze with Bloodletter Red before the highlights.
>>
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>>51766442
Since my marines are Flesh Tearers and not technically Blood Angels, I use a Khorne Red basecoat instead of a Mephiston Red one.

After that, I simply do a drybrush of Kindleflame and then a wash of Carroburg Crimson to bring the basecoat and drybrush together. I don't really use and layers of glazes since I'm a filthy heathen who thinks a drybrushing and a wash looks fine enough.

I also prime matte black. I've heard gold can make a nice red but gold primer is hard to find for relatively cheap. White primer can also be nice but I prefer darker reds to lighter reds so I don't use it.
>>
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>>51766505
Here's a pic of one of my marines. The left eye is a tad wonky but I'm proud of him nonetheless.
>>
>>51765431

I just use my knife and scrape it, but not too hard. Same as if you're scraping a mold line. It's fine if you shave a couple molecules off the surface, because the paint is gonna come off first, and two if you don't hack away at the model, the thin layer of resin dust you scraped off won't be noticeable at all, much less after gluing.

Next time use putty to mask your glue points.
>>
>>51766514
>Flesh Tearers
>all red

Did you mean Flesh Eaters or something?
>>
>>51766514
Yeah, I prefer the brighter Scarlet-like color of traditional Blood Angels. It really makes them pop. I run a successor chapter that incorporates some more black and gold into the color scheme, so it's not just a block of red like the actual Blood Angels scheme (my one complaint). I wish I had pics handy.
>>
>>51766442
I airbrush prime black, spray some white from above, then spray Minitaire Innards, then spray Minitaire Angelic Blood while leaving some Innards in the shadows, then spray the very brightest parts with some VGA bloody red. After that I panel line them with a brown oil wash.
>>
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>>51734959
Did the pants and booties today. What do you guys think of the image quality compared to last time (it's the >>'d post )?

I bought a clip-on macro lens for my phone so I'm still taking terrible phone pictures but hopefully they will be less terrible than before.
>>
>>51766551
>I prefer the brighter Scarlet-like color of traditional Blood Angels.
A nice scheme, no doubt. I'd check out either the Eldar or Ad Mech painting books to see how they do their reds. Both of those are pretty vibrant.

>>51766544
My marines are actually mostly Flesh Tearers, but I do have a few Flesh Eaters in my army though just for variety's sake.
In any case, I do the red armor the same way for both. My Johnny was just the first pick I had on hand.
>>
>>51765999
>buy a new one
>make a new one
>carve the area and add battle damage to make it look like it was blown off
>>
>>51756957
Whoaoah. Slow down soldier. That's way too much.
>>
>>51761573
I felt sad, because doing that kinda ruins one of the concepts of the game.
>>
>>51764478
Diarrhea doesn't cause cancer.
>>
>>51762555
>>/out/
>>
>>51766288
>>51766328
I am. Thank you, glad I'm sort of achieving the effect I was going for. Have never done it before and am pretty happy with how it's working out. I think I'm procrastinating putting the nuln oil wash on it though, as I don't want to make it too dark. Maybe I should use Devlan Mud instead?
>>
>>51754047
It wasn't long after the release of the ogerkingdom armybook. So one of the early 2005 WD issues. Had it lying around but can't find it.
>>
File: Oh you little shit.jpg (16KB, 126x111px) Image search: [Google]
Oh you little shit.jpg
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>>51763694
Your taste is horrid.
My scheme is great.
>>
>>51762034
Vraks unending host?
>>
>>51766685
How?
>>
>>51754047
WD 300 has some OrgeKingdoms/hidecovered huts instructions but that's all I know of
>>
>>51759205

Are you a bad enough dude anon?
>>
>>51762555

>wastes a model on the Dabs
>head not buried in left shoulder

0/10 bad meme, you made pepe cry
>>
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Painted my second battlesuit. (the one on the bottom) I'm having a difficult time finding a color I like for that rear bit behind the head, though.
>>
>>51766972
neat, thanks. that riverboat is crazy.
>>
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>>51758673
Oh my fuck... I hope that's just coming out of paint remover other wise how the fuck does someone layer so much paint over the DC Dreadnoughts Skull that you completely fill in the eye sockets.

>>51759193
Truth
>>
didnt someone post Crawl with boobs greenstuffed on to it? does anyone have that picture?
>>
>>51763883
looking good but still too close to saurus in my opinion. Korixgor look totally different, tohugh I know the pc game basically mde them into big saurus as well. They shouldn't have a triangular crest and look more like a t rex rather than a raptor/triceratops hybrid. Just a personal hangup though.
>>
>>51766579
Looking good, which cult you running? It's funny how gene cults look like they'd look good with a massive range of schemes and then they don't. I tried 5 before settling with a rust theme with orange and grey and dark green carapaces. They aren't like tyranids either since even the arm carapace is part of the shell so you have to have a skin, carapace and claw colour.
>>
>>51763153
You're painting the wrong knee, Dark Angels 5th Company wear their company marking on their left knee.
>>
>>51762555
>>/trash/
>>
how did we go from this...
>>
>>51767851
to this?
>>
>>51766715
Wrong. Not that guy, but there's a reason I take a bunch of drugs for ibd.
>>
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>>51765984
>>51765996
>>51766055
>>51766106
>>
>>51765590
Totally stealing this idea.
>>
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Progress on my BB field. magnets installed on the fences and buildings. Still need to finish painting the buildings and construct another for the opposite side of the field.

Also, gotta finish details on the dugouts. I've build the dividing walls, just need to paint and glue them in. Then, a surgeons table, some coffins and fences for the respective areas of the dugouts.

Oh, and the scoreboard which is under the commentators box. Gotta finish that, too.
>>
>>51757320
>>51757411
>>51759205
>do mad shit at huge personal risk
>follow nothing but their own crazy doctrine
>fetish for extracting blood
>literally halal
>berzerkers = ISIS
>>
>>51766514
I hope that guy added you to the johnny's pic.
>>
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>>51768226
>>51759205
>>
>>51764441
Yes, only use vallejo white primer if you are using an airbrush. If not, you are in for a dark travel.
>>
>>51768184
You could sell that shit nigga. How long did it take you?
>>
File: Sieppaa.png (446KB, 516x598px) Image search: [Google]
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What color I should paint this guy's gun as?
>>
>>51768342
Bout 2 full days to get it to a playable level. That is; framed, foam cut, based, and painted.
>>
>>51768317
God damn it.

Thanks anon.

What about their grey primer? I wanted to switch off the black because I felt like it was obscuring detail (or maybe the Aquilas on guardsmen models really are that flat looking and my eyes AREN'T shit).
>>
What are some ways to make small cover? My LGS had absolutely none of it.

Planning to make some barbed wire, but what else will work?
>>
>>51764060
It's a boy can
>>
>>51768492
barrels, crates, bushes, small walls/ruins, sandbags, rocks
>>
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What material do dark eldar use for manufacturing their weapons, like the splinter rifle for example.
>>
>>51768492
Tank traps? Barrels, crates, sandbags...
>>
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>>51768474
Always like the vanilla wraithbone color.
>>
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muh wraithguards.png
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>>51768585
Unfortunately it doesn't really fit well with the rest of my army's color scheme.
>>
>>51768585

TITS OUT FOR YVRAINE
>>
>>51768604
Getting real sick of seeing you ask for feedback without presenting full context, not to mention shit like >>51766826

Remember when I said you had a shitty attitude?

Anyway, you've basically already decided your weaponry is blue, but cold white like on the usual biel tan schemes would also work.
>>
>>51768585
correct answer
>>
>>51768629
That was obviously a fucking joke m8. With the reaction picture and everything.
>>
>>51768604
Then make him match I guess if that's important to you. If you already have a colour scheme why are you asking?
>>
>>51768736
I am unsure if blue guns would look good with the guardian, because the color ballance is very different in it, due to the lack of green.
>>
>>51768708
>With the reaction picture and everything
>young prodigy just trying to meme
>>
>>51768585
>tfw called to war to defend your craftworld when really you just want to bust out an awesome guitar solo
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