Gunpla/Plamo General

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SD Group Build

Rules:
Pick up an SD anything, plane, Gundam/other MS, whatever, if it's generally an SD it counts (so I hope to see someone do a D-Style). Obviously, per all group builds, you'll want to paint it.

Submissions:
Email it to [email protected]
USE AN ACTIVE EMAIL ADDRESS

Due Date: November 1st

Good news! A kind anon has purchased some prizes for the group build. He has decided to do a random drawing rather than judge them like I did in the previous group build. Winners will be contacted via email.

For those curious I intend to start the secret santa signups on October 1st.

>>5894875
https://order.mandarake.co.jp/order/detailPage/item?itemCode=1024361298&ref=list

Need your help my dudes. Anyone built this yet? How is it?

Reposting in new thread.

I need some advice. The shoulder armor joint of my RG GP01 full burnern broke at the tong and the plastic cement I'm using to reattach it isn't holding up. I've tried taking a bit of the runner and using it to sure up the break but even then it still isn't strong enough.

Should I just resort to using gorilla super glue or what?

>>5894919
Post pics along with manual for reference

>>5894899
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9OZ3BAQL3LI

I know everyone hates her/him/it, but there's diversity in the stuff Prime92 "reviews"

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Give me some MG recommendations. I have 78-02, Zaku II 2.0, Build Strike, Fenice Rinascita, and Jesta.

>>5894967
I thought she was a girl? Never knew she was hated, heck never knew she was even popular

>>5894968
OO Seven Sword / G, Aile Strike RM

>>5894968

Gundam Fenice Rinascita

Nu Gundam

Rick Dom.

Hyaku Shiki Version 2.0

Turn A and X

Dom

Aggai

Gundam Origin

Sinanju ver ka

Sazabi ver ka

Nu Gundam ver ka

The O

>>5894968
[rape her]
Duel AssShroud

>>5894972
I found the videos annoying even before first seeing them discussed here

When I was new to the hobby I found interest in a lot of kits and naturally looked up video reviews, with how much shit they've reviewed its impossible to not run into Prime92 videos. I quickly learned to avoid them like the plague, awful camera, horrible sound, too fucking long for how little reviewing there is, and what is there is badly done.

Just utter shit all around and only noteworthy due to its sheer quantity and diversity, but that's not saying much, I've yet to manage completely watch through any of those "reviews"

>>5894859
Quoting from last thread

>>5895006
Read the guide, you'd have to be trying really hard to fuck up a barbatos

>>5895006
Show us the RX-78-2

Also, Guide.

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>>5895006
Read the guide

RG line tends to be flimsy. My first kit was a RG mk2, it came out pretty well but the skirts fall of from time to time.

Well no real tips per se, just take your time with it and don't rush things, I made lots of mistakes because I'd hurry. Learn to handpaint

>>5895006
Parts can be glued on and joints tightened.
Not entirely sure where you fucked up unless you post pics.

Also I faintly recall the hg barbatos needing paint and stickers to look good, so I'll suggest going for something else, like the kimaris trooper or a graze

>impulse bought four tamiya spray cans and a can of primer for 80 aud

Kill me

>>5894919
If plastic cement doesn't do the job then superglue probably won't either.

Get a small drill and put metal pin in there to reinforce it.

Finished snapfagging. Still looking where to get good waterslides.

>>5895052
Where you at, kangaroobro? 16 bucks isn't too bad. My go to place for them sells it for 17.95 a can.

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I'm researching buying my first airbrush, painting with acrylics, looking at pic related, the aliexpress $11 from the last thread. The person who originally posted it mentioned it has rubber seals, but the google doc in the op suggests cleaning with laquer thinner. Is the thinner going to damage the seals? Is there a better option for cleaning it?

The doc also describes a mixture for priming with gesso, and the airbrush mixture needs a few drops of retarder. What retarder should I be using? Would I be better off if I used a can of tamiya spray primer?

And just to doublecheck, I can use any acrylic thinner, pledge future is the best diy flow aid. Actually, is there any other use for gesso besides the primer mixture? It's not a magically good acrylic thinner so I can buy one less object by any chance?

And regarding an air compressor, should I buy a cheap chinese one to compliment the airbrush, or should I spend a bit more money and buy a full kit with brush, compressor, and etcetera?

>>5895064
Hobbyco macarthur. I'm going to take it all back tomorrow and use the money to buy an airbrush.

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Not a contest entry because there's shitloads of mistakes on it, but I wanted to post this anyway since I'm mostly done with it.

Less than 3 weeks until g-con UK
Anyone here attending?
Entering the build comp?

I got my Formula Skell on Saturday, finished it yesterday!

Relatively fun build. Nothing too ridiculous, and I'm pleased to see Koto is stepping up their game (last kit I got from them was HMM Blade Liger). Great articulation, but low variety in colors, at least, before paint. Transformation is surprisingly satisfying and all of the weapons stay snug in hands.

Damn, this just makes me want a Verus and Mastema so bad, though. Even some weapon packs would be nice. Sucks, because this is likely a one-time thing.

>>5894848
>The shoulder armor joint of my RG GP01 full burnern broke at the tong and the plastic cement I'm using to reattach it isn't holding up.

It's ABS plastic, you need ABS cement for it. And the fumes for that are really strong and toxic, fyi.

>>5895118
Telling you now, from experience, just buy a decent airbrush and don't waste the money on cheap, rubber sealed pieces of shit.

Save for a few weeks and drop 150 on a decent set up. You'll find that you purchase and complete each kit slower so you "save" money in the long run.

What's the best ZETA Gundam MG kit to buy my Gangsters?

>>5894968
Turnx and turn a

>>5895470
If you mean the actual Zeta Gundam, you only have 2 choices in Master Grade: the original '96 release or the 2.0. I doubt anyone here would recommend the former.

Talking about Zeta as a series, probably the 2.0 of the Hyaku-Shiki if best for you mostly translates to most modern.

>>5895500
>I doubt anyone here would recommend the former.
I would. The 2.0 looks like ass.

Looking for a new RG to get. Already have the Freedom Gundam, GP01 FB, and RX-178 Mk II

>>5895506
Get the 00 ones. The 00 Raiser is amazing.

>>5895501
I personally prefer the look of the 2.0, but it's nice to see others around here who don't dismiss kits based on age, especially Master Grades.

If articulation is a concern, it's understandable to look for more recent releases, but if you like the look of an older kit, age shouldn't be much of a deterrent.

>>5895509
Ordered!

Thanks mate.

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>>5894927
Here's the pick of the guide. The part is setting with the glue now so I don't have a picture of it handy.

Part is the I1 18. The left tong broke near the top of the arch.

>>5895506
The astray is a good one to get, the only real nightmare is painting the inner frame when you decide to paint it.

Is the dragon momoko Epyon any good? The orange heat whip looks neat and Bandai really should've included something like that considering it's that way in the show

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Does anyone own the MG Gundam Alex kit?

Is it nice?

My autism is compelling me to buy it

>>5895598
you have two choices here.

1. check dalong

2. keep being a cuck

>>5895598

Own it and the MG Zaku II F2 to go with it but I've built neither.

Looks OK in the box...though I'm not sure that helps in the slightest.

>>5895598
It's an old kit, so dated articulation, weak polycaps. It's not great, but we're probably also not getting a 2.0 of it anytime soon.

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T.I. Eva update
Things I had to do to get to here:
Cut metal screws to right size
Modify polycaps to exact mm specifications
Pin and set spine pieces with brass rod
Otherwise it's actually pretty easy to go together, just takes a lot more concentration

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Getting the whole thing into the 20 year old vinyl was the hardest part so far, the manual actually suggests you use flour

>>5895628
>cutting metal screws

How? Are they made of aluminum or something?

>>5895608

Do you guys actually pose your figures, I just build them and stick them in my glass cabinet

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>>5895637
>he doesn't know how to cut hard metals

>>5895637
Nope, steel. I'm using a dremel with a cut off wheel, seems to work pretty well. No idea how you were supposed to do it in 1998

>>5895651
>No idea how you were supposed to do it in 1998
You're just meant to question why you're alive and hate yourself.

Has anyone ever had the idea to open up a commission studio setup for gunpla? This happens in table top imagine if you have a lazy fucker who has the money. He sends you the model either assembled or non assembled you do the work for the guy shit like panel lining,extra painting, or custom work and then you get paid.

Or is there already a service like this in the gunpla community?

>>5895803
There are people who do commision work and a bunch of people who throw stuff up on ebay (mostly overpriced trash paint jobs). There is just not as big a market for it as the miniature market as there isn't a tie in game for it and it's easy enough to snap a model together and get a reasonable looking result.

>>5895641
I keep 3 - 5 kits on my desk, pose them when I'm bored or make cool battle scenes. If a new kit comes in I put the oldest one on the shelf and the new kit stays in my desk.

>>5894881
WIP pics needed for this one?

>>5895542
>>5894927
>>5895061

Quick update. Gorilla super glue did not work either as guessed. I ended up getting it fixed using jb weld plasticweld.

I molded it around the piece then filed it down with some fine hand files.

Now I just need paint to match the part but I'm guessing even a gray gundam marker would work.

>>5895817
>inb4 $10,000 professionally-build RX-78

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>>5895452
thank you, i'll look into what kits my local hobby stores have.

that's an interesting point about saving money by taking longer on each gunpla kit. i'm just starting to mess around with customs too, so that will probably save more money/time.

how do people usually draft and plan their customs? i've been planning the changes i want to make with blutac and thick paper cut to represent plaplate.

i'm currently converting a man rodi into a gunman from gurren lagann, but i'm havig trouble filling the cavity where the head once was. i'm thinking either a plaplate lattice which conforms to the contours, or some sort of air drying clay or similar kneadable material i can sculpt.

problem is i want the piece that fills the cavity to be removeable so that i can transform the gunman, aka adding a head and buffing/extending the limbs a bit. any suggestions? i think a standard neck PC could be used to secure the filler?

>>5895181
What's wrong with it?

>>5896187
There's nothing wrong with it. He's just fishing for compliments.

>>5896302
fuck you caught me

>>5896187
>>5896302
To be fair the last contest winner was a pretty good build, show worthy except at an international level where those crazy Koreans and Taiwanese get you with their kibbles and bits monsters

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>>5896311
>kibbles and bits monsters
This couldn't be more appropriate.

But seriously, I can't forgive what was done to this ReZEL.

>>5894881
Just to be sure, the rules are pretty much to just make an SD, right? And it's not really a contest and more to get everyone to make an SD?

>>5896361
I can't even recognize that as a ReZEL.

>>5896364
It's a group build. It's a community event.

>>5896361
I don't like Tiefsturmers.

>>5895922

Actually some table top commission could be cheap just depends on the number of models and the level of painting needed+assembly

Gunpla is way easier though no glue needed and the fact that if you just panel line you already get an impressive looking model

Star Wars kit fag here. I picked up an HG Mack Knife discounted recently because it looked the least like a Gundam. Are there any other kits or brands out there that will fill the need I have for posable robot kits?

>>5896434
Kotobukiya's Frame Arms maybe

>>5896434
check dalong.net for most things bandai and some kotobukiya models. Those two companies do the majority of mecha kits, but max factory also does some, and Hasegawa does macross and a few other sci-fi series along with their regular model plane stuff

>>5895903
Not gonna require it in hopes that people aren't just submitting other's work like assholes.

>>5896364
Yeah, if it's an actual contest the rules are a little more strict (you can look back in the archive and see what I had for the last one).

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>Physical Shops
It feels good to feel this feel

>>5896498
>tfw hobbytown only gives a tiny section of a wall for gunpla
I wish I lived in Japan for numerous reasons. Arcades, having an actual gunpla store, the food. Man they have it good. All weeb shit for the most part but it looks a hell of a lot better than the states, especially with the elections coming up since hillary's probably gonna start a war with russia again.

>>5896498
>literally no hobby shops around me
>forced to order online for EVERYTHING

this is truly awful.

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>>5896506
It's not Japan, it's Taiwan. They have gunpla in every toy store and this particular store had like 7 marasai which were 40% off because no one wanted them. I would have bought one but I'm on holiday and luggage space is tight

>>5896498
>visit hobby shop
>6 kits, overrated Wing/Seed garbage
>$15~ more expensive than online
Nope.

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>>5896525
Actually, the best thing about hobby shops is the gems you can find like the 177USD PG Unicorn which I glossed over because I already have one.

>>5896523
It's still pretty cool, and my point still stands. Japan's got the coolest fucking stores.

>>5896532
I just want to go visit some of the sex and doujin shops and bask in the degeneracy

>>5896508
Hope your postal service is good at least.

>>5896523
Cut everything out of the runner and keep them in a bag.

Only saw a few shops when I went there but their prices weren't attractive. (due to not going to taipei and also the lack of time to find shops)

Head's up guys, God Hand SPN-120 is on Amazon for a normal price, $52.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T5IH8PI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>>5896508
There's a hobby shop on the other side of town here, but because it's on the other side of a toll bridge it works out to be cheaper to just get stuff shipped from another state instead.

>>5896550
Is this post ironic?

>>5896570
Biggest issue is finding the damn things in stock honestly, it's the main reason I never bothered getting any before.

>>5896572
>52 USD

>>5896541
Every big retailer I see has pretty average prices. This was the first really nice store in terms of prices and selection.

>>5896434
You can try the Zoids stuff, they look nothing like gundams because they aren't even humanoid. I know they give me a childhood boner at least.

>>5896498
I wish I had that feel. My only options are cars and trains at Hobby Lobby or Michael's.

>>5896550
Kinda doubt they're worth that price when they'll probably wear out in a few kits.

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Can anyone attest to the quality of the metallic markers? I got plans.

>>5896616
Forgot to ask if they could be used for things like the main camera sensors as well. And you use it by letting it bleed onto a small tray, then handbrush right?

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>>5896616
>>5896621
I use the red and greens a lot. I use the green to replace the camera stickers. Reds I use to fill in thruster cups. You can bleed them out I guess, but I just gingerly paint them using the marker itself. They don't drip the paint out unless you apply enough pressure to push the pen tip in. It isn't a fine tip, but if you're careful or you clean up well it can work. I used the red to fill in the orange panels on my latest build here 1/2

>>5896615
Mine's gone through a few dozen and it's still sharp. But yeah that price is really something.

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>>5896632
Also I'd like to point out I'm really new to this and have only built a handful of kits so I am far from an expert, just putting in my 2 cents.

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>>5896616
I like them used for this

>>5896636
Sharp enough not to leave stress marks or sharp enough to leave minimal stress marks?

I just don't see the point of paying extra when you're going to sand have to sand it down for a "perfect" look anyway.

>>5896632
My nigga

>>5896498
Fucking hobby shops that sell GunPla around me are always closed, it's starting to really piss me off

>>5896523
Taiwanese SAL isn't too expensive and it's fairly fast, 2 or so weeks to the east coast US. At least that's my experience with GK-M

>>5896632
>>5896638
Great. Thanks anon.

>>5896636
I've been using a Mineshima D-25 for the last 5 or so years. It's still pretty sharp and I oil it every 5 or so kits. Much cheaper then Memehands.

The biggest cause of dull nippers is when you squeeze too hard and let the edges touch each other.

>>5896670
I've had those for about 6 months now, but mine are a little rusty. How to prevent this?

>>5896674
Most tools take 3-in-1 oil fine. It prevents rusting and protects tools against minor damage

>>5896674
Machine oil, dont touch the blades (too much), dont leave it out in the open.

If the rust is hindering cutting performance, sand it.

>>5896670
True enough. I only got mine because it was just a little above if i got it from hlj. (if it even stocks)

>>5896674
Oil them once in a while. I use wd-40. But any anti rust oil should work.

Any ideas how to remedy frosting from Mr Super Clear?

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Another one.
I'm in heaven

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>>5896705
There is even a section for non Bandai gundam

>>5896706
20 bucks?

the barnes and nobles near my house has some gunpla.

Okay so after looking I was really hoping there would be like HG's or RG's of the 5 Gundam Wing Mechs but seems there isn't?
All I find is the really old ones.

There's RG's I think but they're all Endless Waltz versions.
I just want the 5 main mechs.

>>5896708
540 NTD, so 17USD

>>5896712
MG is the only way to get them all.

>>5896712
i just hope bandai would continue hgfc/hgac/hgaw/hgcc/hgce again now that revive sf and impulse are happening
maybe hgad too because where the fuck is hg gnxiv

>>5896714
What's the 600 next to it?

Also, those fucking prices, holy shit. It's less than 2/3 the price of the regular Bandai Tallgeese. Even if you order from Taobao it ends up being close to $30 with shipping

>>5896717
I want a GNX-II. Even if it's P-Bandai, it's my favorite of the GN-X line.

>>5896706
>>5896705
Die. I hate you so very much.

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>>5896718
I think that means it is on sale, 10% off

>>5896498
>only place within 50 miles that sells gunpla is a comic book store
>$30+ for hgs
> $50+ for rgs
> $100+ for mgs
>hot toys and statueshit on shelves for $150-$800
>ok

Even the fucking comic books and board games were at least $20 more than amazon.

Whats the general option on the RG Aile Strike and Skygrasper?

I'm thinking about picking them up as my next build.

$25 rgs
I don't have enough space for all these

>>5896704
olive oils?

>>5896742
Ahh, sorry guys. Ill quit it with the blogging. Just excited to be in a country with gunpla is all.

>>5896733
>$11 for a hg graze
>$25 for a 1/100 ibo kit

Feels good

>>5896632
Forgot to ask, did you need to prime before painting it?

>>5896781
Nah, but like I said I'm pretty new to gunpla so I haven't gotten deep enough in to start priming and painting proper. For the missiles I did multiple coats, otherwise it doesn't pop out as much.

>>5896781
Everything that will be handled and expected to last more than a year should be primed, lest you are using some form of lacquer or enamel based paint. Painting acrylic on something you are going to touch is just asking for it to be scratched

>fixed pieces in place
>puttied the seams
>sanded
>puttied some more
>sanded some more
>primed
>painted
>tfw repairing drywall

>>5896799
Are you gluing these seams or just puttying them?

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>>5896807
>we won't need glue where we're going

>>5896813
>not using brick and mortar

>>5896799
>not using plastic epoxy to bind the pieces

>>5896454
Well for posable macross models there's only Bandai, Hasegawa is classic static models

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>>5896899
>Hasegawa is classic static models

Not true. I have a posable Hasagawa model right here

>>5896733

try new zealand comic stores. minimum $45 for an HG, $70 for an RG, $120 for an MG. PG unicorn is $380.

>>5896454
Thanks for the recommendation. Some of the Frame Arms sets look pretty cool.

>>5894968
Jesta

>>5894968

rickdom, sazabi ver ka, gogo kampfer, shin musha, gn-x

>>5897110
>Some of the Frame Arms sets look pretty cool.

as someone who owns all the frame arms kits, get magatsuki, hresvelgr-ater and w2 specter. those are the best 3.

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>>5894600
Actually those shoulder connections are great, and the polycaps are set in a way that they can't really be reversed.
Actually, the loosest connection I have is the polycap for the canopy hinge.

>>5897155
>not baselard, type 48 and stylet

>>5897155
>>5897161
>magatsuki, hresvelgr-ater, w2 specter, baselard, stylet
No. These robots all remind me of edgelords in JNCOs.
>type 48
Already hunting a good price online. This was one of the three I found that I liked on dalong.

>>5897161

type 48 is a reissue of the standard kit with a gun after the previous armor pack which makes the whole mech basically hover. I didnt include baselard because the Zeryphikal is 10x better.
as for the stylet, its the most boring design in the whole range.

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>>5897182
What? Type 48 came first, the booster addon came later.
Base Baselard is a little lacking in weaponry, but its variants are bretty gud.
Agree on the Stylet, but I was really thinking of the full interceptor ver

>>5896741
Bump Please

>>5897193
Don't think I've seen anything offensive about them, except the strike's side skirts which limits the movements of the legs

>>5897190
>Base Baselard is a little lacking in weaponry, but its variants are bretty gud.

its variants add 2 koto MSG weapons to the standard kit.

>>5897201
The two MSG cannons are more interesting that that poor excuse of a "gun"
Now the FAG Baselard on the other hand has some neat looking weapons

>>5896741

all RGs are good buys

>>5896938
Well, transformation kits then, only gerwalk and battroid kits have articulation

>>5897228
>Well, transformation kits then

No, you're right there. None of the Hase stuff transforms.

Not a problem for me as I feel the transformation gimmick tends to mess up the rest of any transforming kit, but that may be a deal breaker for other who want to do so I suppose.

>>5897177
This guy again.
I just hit an art store to pick up some tiny Microns to play around with panel lining. How do these things hold up to touch once the ink has been left to sit for awhile? Has anyone here tried Copic Multiliner SP ink? I saw those kits with refills for ink and nibs...color range looked good, too.

>>5897159
Hum, a lot of reviews for the vanilla Soltic say the shoulders pop off easily while posing.

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All these Gundam stores T.T

Thank you stars you have the privilege of buying Gundam from stores. I don't get anything in this shithole and even the few that are available cost an arm and a leg.

>>5897386
If you're in the US there's almost no reason not to buy stuff online unless you really want to support them.

>>5897388
Some people like going out and finding things. It feels nicer to actually go out into a store and browse the selection there. Especially if you limit yourself to buying only when you take a trip specifically to an irl store for gunpla.
I have a friend who refuses to ever order stuff and does things this way. Keeps the hobby affordable for him.

>>5897388
Not USA, I'm from India. We do get this stuff on Amazon here but is very expensive and importing from Japan is another no because of the customs and taxes, bloody thieves

>>5896704
Anyone?

>>5896744
Can it damage the plastic?

>>5897425
Normally you'd strip the paint, but recently on the scale model general, two people have tried the olive oil thing and it seems(?) to work.
You'd have to dig a bit through the archive to find the original guy who tried it, but here's >>5891433 the result of the second dude.

>found out there is a hobby store in the next city
>they have gunpla

Living in Norther California is suffering for this hobby. Hopefully they have a good selection. Will post pictures when I get back.

>>5897520
>living in commiefornia
How's that shitty tapwater fag?

>>5897613
>California is homogeneous in its infrastructure and cities

Norcal and socal might as well be separate states.

>>5897613
Of all the things you could possibly choose to harp on California for it's that? Besides, this guy >>5897620 has it right.

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>>5897520
I'm back from the journey and boy howdy do they have gunpla!

1/?

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>>5897676

Fuck

2/?

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>>5897676
>>5897678

Bah, didn't look at the pictures before uploading, sorry for lack of gunpla

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>>5897679
4/?

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>>5897680
5/?

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>>5897683
6/7

They even have a fair bit of Mr products. Picked up their last can of Mr. Topcoat.

Decided to look up what hobby shops are near me because of this thread. Turns out there are several, but not a one carries gunpla. Is it really that uncommon to find stuff like this in the US? The only time I've ever seen gunpla in an actual store was in one of those stores with japanese imports and anime merch, and even then the selection was limited.

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>>5897687
7/7

This is what I walked away with for now.

>>5897520
Where is this in cali. I might go visit

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Has anyone put together and painted a Star Wars model? Pic related is what I was thinking of getting, and it looks like shit without paint. I've never painted a model before. I'm looking to avoid any pitfalls putting it together if it's going to make painting harder.

Only only other model I've put together is a GP-01Fb. It looks good enough without paint, but I somehow fucked up the torso, it doesn't properly latch on to the leg section. Again, if anyone has some tips for the X-wing, I'd really appreciate it.

>>5897718

Fundemonium Toys in Rohnert Park. They also have a great free rewards program.

fundemoniumtoys.com

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Looks like Christmas came early boys.

>>5897693
I hope you felt embarrassed buying that fucking bearguy.

>>5897760
I didn't.

In fact the cashier even pointed him out for me. He is going to be a cute desk figure for my wife.

Being normal is suffering otherwise.

Don't listen to the nazi worshiping modelers from the other thread
>>5896744

>>5897832
Agreed.
>>5897848

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STOP SHITTING UP OUR THREAD FILTHLY JAPS

>>5897875
The people here WISH they were japs.
t. one of them

>>5897875
>frogposting
fag

How not to thin your paints:
>>5897823

>>5897772
I got that Bearguy and also the little Panda one. For myself though.

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How do I paint on cameras? Is it like silver as a base then clear color over it? Do I need to do the thing where you paint it black before spraying silver on it?
On MGs where it's clear plastic, like the RX-78-02, can I just directly put clear paint on it without priming?

Small questions: I got some SD Gundams, an MG Age-2, HG 00, FA Baselard and FA:G Architect. What should I start on to greatly improve my masking/airbrushing skills? I've done some small parts in the past, never required masking though.
Is it possible to airbrush a primer layer?? I am tripping on Tamiya acrylics and I was wondering if there are any detailed colour mixing/thinning guides out there. Also do you pre-build a kit before painting? Did so before but wondering if I'd save time just taking it to the shed rightaway..

So if I'm just topcoating, that goes on after the decals, right?

>>5897721
http://dalong.net/review/etc/sw01/sw01_p.htm
It comes with stickers and waterslides, so you don't really need to worry about painting. It's also recent bandai kit, so there it shouldn't be very difficult to build

>>5897393
There's a difference between just clicking and buying and going out to find it. The Journey just makes it more satisfying.

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Bearguy WIP

>>5897693
>Memeguy

You should be ashamed of yourself, you filthy normie

>>5898100
What'd you do to piss him off so much?

>>5898017
>masking and airbrushing
Test on spoons

>airbrush primer
Yes, and mr. surfacer is often used to do this. If you really want to go into detail on it, you can watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_-v7-Wp6no just be warned that it's a bit much if you're just starting out
>detailed colour mixing/thinning guides out there
Mixing paint should be fairly self explanatory (not sure what you're looking for). If you're using Tamiya's own thinner, just follow their ratios. Otherwise, just google it. There are a hundred different modelling forums you can get an answer from
>Also do you pre-build a kit before painting
You usually build/do a test fit before you paint, yes. It shows you what surfaces need paint and which don't, as well as gives you an idea of where pieces may rub so you can add clearance

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Rate my latest haul, /toy/. Also got an Origin Gaia/Mash Zaku II but that's not as cool as these guys. The Zaku I and Guncannon are gonna be sacrificed to Plamor to give them a bit of an overhaul

>>5897721
I just bought my own xwing and I'll have to agree with you, the plastic doesn't look good unpainted. The colour is all wrong, and without a decent wash, it's gonna look like shit. Panel lining ain't gonna cut it here in afraid.

>>5897904
Shh, don't tell anyone but I'm doing the exact same thing. Hope no one steals my idea but I already got all the materials for a Russian guncannon with 152mm KV-2 barrels for the shoulder cannons and a 76.2mm field gun to replace the beam rifle. The howitzer is from miniart. Great detail and only a dozen dollars or so.

>building MG Strike Noir
>bought waterslide decals for it
>gonna have to keep it in separate parts for 2-3 weeks

50/50 non-acetone nail polish remover and water can work as a mark softer alternative, right? Pure acetone seems to be too strong.

>>5898181
All kits look good in the box. You've never built a MiniArt kit have you? The polystryene they use is way too soft. They have horrible QA; sprues with mold slip are passed without a care. Their kits are usually covered in flash, ejector pin marks, and sink holes and are ill fitting. Their decals are the typical Eastern European crap.

>>5898206
No. Acetone and ethyl acetate will destroy the decals. Decal softeners/setters are typically made from acetic acid or alcohols.

>>5898163
Not that anon, but:
I just bought an airbrush (iwata hp-cs gravity type, 0.35mm) and I'm waiting for my compressor to ship. I was planning on airbrushing primer because I live in a third world country and odd as it may be, it's virtually impossible to find primer that's meant for plastic here (even in hardware store). The only proper primer I can find is specifically meant for airbrushing (I can get alclad primers and vallejo acrylic primers here, and I ordered some mr surfacer from sealmodel). Will the hp-cs do the trick? The video has me worried that the nozzle/needle won't be big enough to give a proper coat.

But then, he seems to be working on very large smooth surfaces. Does it matter as much in Gunpla, when you're usually priming much smaller parts separately?

>>5898221
Yeah, the thing about the wide nozzle is what I was referring to mainly. It's not as necessary for gunpla because a lot of the surfaces are smaller, so it's easier to get a smooth coat on the pieces surface. Also, if you watch more of his videos, the methods he uses *need* a smooth coat of primer, so unless you're aiming to emulate his exact modelling style, you really don't need to be quite so anal about primer

>>5898211
>All kits look good in the box
I have to disagree with you
>You've never built a MiniArt kit have you?
I've built their German valentine and I have a T44m in the backlog
>The polystryene they use is way too soft. They have horrible QA; sprues with mold slip are passed without a care. Their kits are usually covered in flash, ejector pin marks, and sink holes and are ill fitting.
I didn't find their plastic particularly soft. Nor did I notice much mold slip, sink-holes or flash. Some ejector pin marks here or there, but not too bad considering some other offerings on the market which are passed off as good. (AFV club T34). The fit wasn't terrible either. It didn't fall together, but that's to be expected when kits get more complex.

>Their decals are the typical Eastern European crap.
Eduard makes fine decals, and theyre Czech.

>>5898228
So basically I should be okay airbrushing mr surfacer with the hp-cs, and maybe sanding it with some 1500 grit paper after right?
I could buy another cheaper airbrush with a larger nozzle, like a paasche vl, to use just for priming, but I feel like it might be a little too much investment right off the bat, especially after the money I spent on the hp-cs including shipping and taxes to my country.

>>5898240
>Czech
>Eastern Europe
There's a reason they split from the Slovaks.

>>5898240
Eduard's decals are printed by Cartograf in Italy.

>>5898242
I've never tried doing it with an HP-CS myself, but it won't hurt testing it out on spoons, or better yet, spare/extra pieces and finding if you like the result. And yeah, you have the process right

>>5898221
You can airbrush Mr. Surfacer 1000+ in an HP-CS just fine. Add more Levelling thinner if needed.

>>5898273
>>5898278
Thanks.
Also, I read somewhere that the best thinner for mr surfacer is actually the Tamiya lacquer thinner. Is that right or will I have to order some mr. leveling thinner too?

I'm out of ideas on how to paint up a Bearguy Petit. I could go for a seasonal/holiday themed paintjob, or something more graphicy/pop art style.

Any suggestions?

>>5898242
I do painting and priming with a single 0.3 airbrush. With parts separation in mind, individual gunpla pieces are a lot smaller than the hull of a 1/48 tank or that 1/350 warship.

Anyone here airbrush Testors enamels? I airbrushed some on kit (thinned with the testors red tin thinner), it's been 24 hours and it still feels a little sticky, The site says 24-48 hours for a full cure.

Anyone else have experience airbrushing testors enamels? Could I have used too much thinner? What should I do if ti's still sticky after 48 hours?

>>5898282
Mr. Color Levelling thinner is worth it's weight in gold and a must for Mr. Surfacer. You can clean up using any lacquer thinner.

>>5898296
Testor's enamels are awful. You never know if they will dry or not even if using lacquer thinner.

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Bearguy wip 2: electric boogaloo

Arms edition

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Hey all.
Not sure if this is the right thread to ask, but a fellow anon was wondering where this effect part comes from.
I guessed that it belongs to a Gundam model kit, but I'm not sure.
Any ideas?

>>5898172
that's a really fucking old Guncannon

>>5898100
>>5898316
What'd you use to hide the Sprue marks?
And make it look so nice.

>>5898388
Nothing actually.

Good angles on the photos, top coat, and I use an X-acto #11 fine point to cut down the nubs.

I actually just gently shave them down with the knife until it's flush and will use 2000 grit sandpaper on rounded edges.

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>>5898323
Well that's Rockman.EXE holding the sword there, it's not from the Rockman line? Is the eve t part fluf onto the hilt of the sword? If so, closes thing I can think of is Victory Gundam's sword. Here's the weaponry that comes with the HG Victory Gundam. Though I think it would be too small to fit in a sword like that, they're barely wider than toothpicks.
Perhaps it's the MG variant. Hope this helps.

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>>5897385
That could actually be why. The 24th Unit Roundfacer's shoulder parts are [new] pieces on a separate runner, since unlike the standard Roundfacer, its shoulders are the same color as the rest of the upper arm. So it could be that those new shoulder parts have improved ball-pegs for the torso and shoulder-armor connections.

>>5897907
No? Looks fine to me.

>>5898448
Nah the gray paint/primer on the wheels looks fucked.

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I don't get it when guides say that you should cut the connection piece several times after getting it off the runner. Most of the time, it just falls off by itself with any kind of pressure. I can't even imagine taking a knife to it without it immediately falling off.

>>5898481
Cut it once away from the part on each connection. Then remove the part as normal. THEN cut close to the part. Then remove the remaining minor nub with a knife or sandpaper as normal.

Cutting flush against the part while its still on the runner can create stress the plastic and can end up being a visible mark when you remove the nub. Same with trying to use a knife to cut an overly thick nub.

>>5898448
Ah, that explains the shoulder thing.
I guess I'll have to fuck around with the vanilla Rondfacer to fix the shoulders.

>>5898481
Sometimes nubs are especially wide, and these ones won't just fall off and have to be cut as the guides recommend. These ones tend to be especially bad about leaking dark marks after sanding, especially if the plastic is a dark color.

I thought stickers were a bitch to apply, then I tried water slides. Someone please save me from this beautiful evil.

>>5898517
If they're difficult you didn't let them soak in water long enough, or your surface isn't smooth enough. Also locking tweezers are a huge help.

>>5898517
waterslides are much easier to apply though. it just takes a while to peel it off the backing.

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>>5898434
Thanks, guy.
I'll link the anon to your post.

>>5898524
Not a problem, have fun with the Rockman stuff, you'll be getting more toys than games nowadays.

>>5898520
>>5898521
I can't get them to stay in place and despite being precut there's clear overhang. I can also tell the things are going to be a tad wrinkly. Glad I started on an accessory I don't care about.

>>5898434
the rockman in question has a sword inside the effect part, and while he looks big, he is part of the 4in line, so he's smaller than an HG I believe

>>5898534
Did you use setter?

>>5898051
>does topcoat go on top?
If you had a coat you wore outside would you put it on last or would you wear a shirt over it?

>>5898587
I asked because I was seeing stuff about putting them on top of gloss coats. I wasn't sure I had a coat that went outside in the form of stickers or the spray.

>>5898600
Gloss coats make a surface smooth, use them sort like a laminate to sandwich between layers and protect them. Also decals go on a gloss coat, because the smooth surface helps them adhere better. You shouldn't use a matte coat for layer protection like you do a gloss coat.

Conversely, a "topcoat" is the final coat you put on your model. If the final topcoat is a gloss coat like the layer ones, then your model will be shiny. If it's a matte/flat one, then it'll have a 'dulled' look, because a matte topcoat creates a bumpy texture that's bad at reflecting light.

>>5898579
Thought I would try with the vinegar trick to avoid yet another hobby specific tool. They separated like a charm at least, but...

>>5898619
The point of setter isn't to loose the decal. Setter helps the adhesiveness of the decal to a surface, you just apply some to the area you want it to be and then lay down the wet decal. Once it's positioned right you remove excess moisture with a cloth or q-tip and it'll be stuck on there better than normal.

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Just got this
Is it gonna looks good unpainted?

>>5898613
Ah, that makes more sense. Thanks for that.

>>5898661
Nope

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>>5898661
define good

>>5898674
It's very moe

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>>5898674
Thats painted though

I have so many model kits I want to work on but no time

>>5898661
Passable with a matt coat and good nub removal.

>>5898680
did they paint turrets red for easier targeting from above

>>5898725
IFF purposes apparently

>>5897758
Do share if the Sinanju's worth it, been eyeing it for a while!

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1/100 Stargazer when.

Luckily I still have some TS-80 so wouldnt have to deal with piano black fingerprint magnet and scratch coverage for all the black.

Recasts of the 1/100 Vayeate and Mercurius confirmed

>>5898748
>1/100 Stargazer

After MG Zock.

Any alternatives to Pledge w/ Future as joint tighteners?

>>5898784
A brain

>>5898172
Are you gonna be kit bashing those old MSV kits with the other two?

So I just topcoated my second kit.
This was bare plastic.
And I seemed to get a frosting effect.

The last kit I topcoated had a glosscoat.
Is that what I should have done to prevent that?
I was damn sure you can flat coat bare plastic.

Is there anyway for me to clean this up without losing the coat?

>>5898970
That's the intention, but I may swap out the Revive Guncannon with the Origin Guncannon depending on how I want the proportions. The Zaku I is from my snapshit days from like 3-4 years ago and is gonna have some life breathed into it with the Tank parts.

>>5899006
It means you did a shit job of applying the topcoat.

dunno, never explored removing topcoat

>>5899011
Yeah, I didn't think I was too heavy, but I could be wrong. It's only my second time doing a flat coat.

>>5899006
Frosting is caused by either:

A) Spraying to close to the part
B) Spraying an area too heavily
C) Spraying while it is too damp/humid

Frosting occurs when the particles in the clearcoat that give it the flat appearance get clumped up in an area instead of spreading evenly across a piece.

>>5899015
Might have been the humidity then.

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Guys need your help. I'm from India and well it goes without a saying it's a shithole. Everything is expensive here and I'll have to spend a months salary to get an airbrush and a shit compressor, even the paints are really expensive and cost a fortune

So my question is, is it possible to paint kits using artist acrylic paints? The ones you get in art stores. I'll be hand painting them and if so what should use to thin them? Also what about nail polish?

Thank you for all the help mates

I decided to kill myself and just gloss coat and flat coat it again in my bathroom.
The gloss coat is killing the frosting.

>>5899008
Nice, I've had the same idea but don't have the skill to pull it off. Do post your progress once you end up doing it, I'd love to see how that goes.

>>5899024
POO IN LOO
O
O

I
N

L
O
O

>>5899038
I've built a few scale model tanks here and there, so it shouldn't be too hard to do. The hardest part is figuring out how to attach the Zaku 1's torso to the thing.

>>5899019
Just buy one of those tiny humidity thermometer things.

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Check what I just got in the mail today :)

I'm pretty excited that I can tune the world out and now for a few hours

>>5899051
Nice!
How much did the ghosts and Panda cost?

>>5899051
>ghost jegan M and F
neat! i hadn't heard of those models before

do you have other beargguys and petitguys? the cutesy design throws me off but if they're good kits i might get some

>>5899024
It's possible, but most likely will look like shit. The pigments in artists paint usually isn't fine enough for modelling, meaning that it'll be hard to get even colour coverage

>>5899050
Uh, I live in Texas. It's gonna be humid until January.
I'll just try to coat during the evenings.

>>5899060
They're good practice kits. They're good for kids.

>>5899069
How would buying a humidity gauge do anything but help you in that situation though...

>>5899064
Oh okay. I'll give it a try anyway and post the results here, could be used as a reference for others in the future. Thanks for the reply anon

>>5899071
It's always humid outside, unless you can control coastal breezes with your humidity gauge then I doubt it'll actually help.

>>5899058
The ghosts were pretty expensive because I got them from the UK (I'm from Denmark) I think it was £33 each
Gunpla is fucking expensive here in Europe... I was recently in Tokyo where I got my first couple of kits and they were really cheap out there.
I've become addicted to building them. They're like a Lego and Warhammer mixed

I got the panda from Japan on ebay, it cost me £3 plus shipping

>>5899060
I have the brown Bearguy. He was one of the first three kits I bought when I was in Tokyo. I just thought it was so "lol Japan" I had to get it.
I just got the brown petit guy to match my big bearguy and the Panda because why not, it's a panda robot!

I really want the petitguys with the guitar and the one with a drum

Yeah they may be cutesy, but I find them so stupid and Japanese I had to get some.

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>>5899060
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I like using the "cute factor" and make really gory stuff with them for movie clips
I'm working on a short movie with some of my old toys and want some of the petitguys to tear some gi joes to shreds and shit. Blood everywhere

Here's a shot from it when I was filming it

>>5899092
Didn't someone post rules on a tabletop game for plamo?

>>5899071
Why bother buying one if it's humid all the fucking time? I don't get it.

>>5899115
I don't know, I'm just shooting a movie where The RX78-2's and Transformers have killed Arnold's kid and captured his woman, so he gets an army to kill them all

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Bearguy is CUTE!

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>>5899092
>that castle

>>5899025
are you that guy who was spraying in his tub with no mask and almost died?

>>5899247
No. I just did the spraying, left the vent running and let it air out before doing it one last time. Then I had the shower running to kill the fumes.

>>5898626
Got it. Well, I'll try to track some down today locally, hopefully the rest are less catastrophic.

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just going to leave this here

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Bought this on a whim, can I use this no problem or did I have to pick up the one that says Top Coat in all caps in a blue can?

>>5899468
nah thats fine mate, its my preferred one and imo is the best

>>5899331
so which one should we use for lacquer paints?

>>5899723
At the very least it has to stop organic vapors so 60921 is what the guide has.

Personally I prefer 60926 because you never know and the price is not that different.

Also 2097 is supposed to help with the smell for things like putty and cement where you are not actually spraying the stuff.

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Started on the Astray.

This leg is great.

>>5899331
>>5899735
So how long do the filters last if I were to use one of the 6500 series respirators?

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So I'm pretty new to this stuff, I've got a lot of experience /tg/ stuff and a couple model kits but after watching Iron Blooded Orphans recently I decided to take the plunge and order pic related and Gusion Rebake as well. Anyone got any general tips on these kits or just know if they're any good, I've got my eye on the custom Graze and a couple Option Packs because I've found them all relatively cheap but I'd be interested to hear what people in the know might think about them.

>>5899984
If you have experience with /tg/ stuff, all you need to know is that there aren't any fitting issues, you don't need glue or putty, and you don't need paint (although you might want to use that anyways, especially for colouring details that they provide stickers for)

>>5897721
The Bandai Star Wars kits are garbage, painted and unpainted. The X-wing is the pinnacle of mediocre with retardedly heavy panel lining and ridiculous colored plastic shit. I can't help but point and laugh at any faggot duped into buying that garbage because of "muh accuracy".

>>5899984
The IBO kits are well made, and super easy to assemble. Generally speaking for all gunpla; for best results, add paint and mods. There are entire websites dedicated to the ins and outs of the various processes, and reading the guide in OP and checking all the various links is a good starting point.
Besides the kits themselves, I recommend getting some nippers, files and/or sandpaper, and hobby knife. All that is just for part removal (from the sprues) and cleanup.
If you choose not to paint initially, just lining markers and dullcoat will go a long way towards making the completed model look nicer.
The clear stickers they come with for markings are kinda crappy IMO, so when you do paint, there are people that print and sell waterslide decals online, for when you can't find the Bandai releases in stock.

>>5900000
What a waste of digits

>>5900000
Oh, and I suppose you would rather buy one of revel's kits? If you treat it as a traditional model rather than another gundam kit, the thing is an absolute beauty: no fitting issues, tons of surface detail, and cheap to boot.

>>5899989
>>5900007
Awesome, thankyou for the advice guys

>>5899847
If you toss them in a sealable bag (or just toss the entire mask + Filters into a big one) when you aren't using them then they can last for months before needing replaced.

I would like to make a model of RX-78-2 Gundam for my first Gunpla but there are many different versions, including multiple in each size. Any recommendations for a good one?

>>5900191
anime accuracy - MG 2.0
sculpted detail - MG 3.0
like guns? - MG Gundam the Origin
want a smaller size kit? - RG Gundam
on a budget? - HG Revive Gundam

>>5900191
For a beginner? You'd probably want HG because it's cheaper. You're choices for that are:

>Revive (HGUC #191)
Pros: Cheap, simple, modern
Cons: Least anime-accurate proportions

>30th anniversary
>Pros: Lots of surface detail (learn to panel line), good proportions, reflexively modern
>Cons: Harder to find, more surface details means it's less anime accurate
As an alternative, this model also comes in the starter set 2, which includes a gundam panel lining marker http://dalong.net/review/hg/hst2/hst2_i.htm

>Original HG (HGUC #21)
>Pros: cheap, arguably most anime accurate, simple
>Cons: VERY dated

If you want images of each, you can check on dalong.net

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>They worked the transformation in as a hover bike

>>5900416
>tfw mostly just want her for the high heels and sukumizu

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>>5900432
>not for the boobs
for shame

Saw the preorder for devil gundam on amiami. Doe anyone know if this is just a straight reissue of the old kit or do you think they reworked it a little? If memory serves the or,iginal kit was pretty terrible in terms or overall quality.

>>5900555
It's just a reprint; if bandai ever changes any of their kits then they'd make a big deal about it.

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>>5900416
Of course they did, it would be SILLY otherwise.

That said, that's a rather busy design when she has everything on. And that price.

>>5900555
Straight reissue. So it will be terrible.

>>5900570
>>5900569
Well shit, there goes my hype boner. Shame it never got an mg treatment. Come to think of there's a few mobile fighters I wouldn't mind see getting the mg treatment

>>5900267
>Cons: Least anime-accurate proportions
Its actually the most anime accurate

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What's in the box, in the box! What's in the box today?

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>>5900590
It's fucking GunPla. What else? Get over it.

You all think it's a dragon dildo or some shit?

>>5900592

wouldnt be surprise

>>5900592
I always hope, but it never is. Thanks for disappointing me again, Anonymous.

>>5900592
The box art is gorgeous on those. I want to buy one just for the art.

Posted this on the last general but got 0 replies since the thread was dead already:

Ok so my first build was a RG-RX 78-2 and I've been told that was one of the hardest kits ever. It ended up looking like shit. I loved doing it but it the parts hardly stay together etc.

That said, I really want to give Gundams a second try and was aiming for the Barbatos. Any tips?

>>5900570
She definitely has the best base body out of all the FAGs released so far.

>That said, that's a rather busy design when she has everything on. And that price.
I'm having nightmares about all the tiny pieces for her equipment already. The tiny pieces on the much simpler Gourai were already sanding hell.

>>5900633
I'll probably just find a way to pad the alligator clips on my spare hand or something. It can't be THAT bad, right? Right?

Guys?

>>5900627
The RG RX 78 was bandai's first attempt so it wasnt really that great compared to other Real grades. As for Barbatos you don't have that problem that the RG gundam had but it requires touch up for some small color details like teh shoulder

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>>5900592
>DAT Gouf with CIA post
> on Dodai YS
the artbox guy must be influence by Baneposting, isn't it?

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Fucking indofags I'm salty as shit.

How do Ideon kits compare to modern kits?

>>5900917
Frame arms girls are shit

New thread: >>5901184

>>5899837
The leg itself is great, but the ankle and foot I've always hated. Just feels disjointed