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WIP - Work In Progress General

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Thread replies: 360
Thread images: 114

File: space_marine_painting_johnny.jpg (314KB, 736x846px) Image search: [Google]
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Work in Progress - "Working on the 4th of July sucks!" Edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Panther, I need Charlie Zone status. Report!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzWP-C8oDPw

>Previous Thread(s):
>>54132745
>>54110024
>>
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Working on some objective markers with some extra bits I had and some I got from my friend.
>>
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So I just did a test of striping a few models with Dettol, it worked quite well, but they are still sticky after rinsing with water. How do I end the stickyness? Kitchen roll?
>>
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Have some more jean stealer cultists
>>
>>54157824
Are you joking or something? Or is this some non-burger things people actually use?
>>
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>>54155262

The top torso, arms, rear leg armor and top of the head are Heldrake
Underside of the torso is two forward sections of the Defiler hull cut and joined together. Plate just above the head came from a Soul Grinder. Not sure where the head sensor and torso connector came from. Dreadnought power plant. Under the power plant is the cable bunch from the Maulerfiend.

Legs are Sentinel while the feet are reversed Killa Kan feet with Sentinel toes. Upper leg armor from the Maulerfiend, lower is cut down Defiler claw armor.

Then as many wires and cables as you can find. I've actually got enough for another one if I can find a couple more Defiler hulls.

Aaaaand another update as I start putting pin washes on.
>>
>>54157824
Washing up liquid might help. Stick some on a toothbrush, scrub the models under water and see if it improves.

If not, soak them again in Dettol then try the above again.
>>
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>10 y/o cousin asks if he can help me put together new models
>tell him he can help cut out pieces
>show him how to do a couple then let him get to work
>everything looks fine
>except the back door hatch for my Rhino (the one that is supposed to open and close)
>he cut off a few centimeters of the peg part that is supposed to go into the hole on each side so it's too short to fit
>the pieces he cut off are mutilated and wouldn't fit back in the hole after I glued them back on
Is there a way to order specific parts to be replaced? Or would they maybe send me a replacement door if I called and explained what happened and politely asked for one?
>>
>>54158059
They're usually pretty nice about this. Worth calling them.
>>
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>>54157553

Need sculpting/converting ideas for a Knight Atrapos possessed by a Herald of Tzeentch. Some anon posted this in the last thread and I'm definitely gonna give it a shot. Still need sculpting ideas though.
>>
Better to prime Carcharodons black or White?
>>
>>54158121
You're gonna want a healthy amount of warpflame action. Maybe have some horrors jumping around on it or the base.
>>
>>54158111

Checked and I will call them tomorrow
>>
>>54158121
Lord of Change parts would be good for it. How's your free hand game?
>>
>>54157824
I washed them in soapy water then a quick rinse afterwards
>>
>>54157860
dettol is not a joke
>>
An anon vouched for "Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X" pretty strongly last thread. Anyone here have an opinion on it?
>>
>>54158389

Not that anon but I like it and it beats getting Jew'd by Citadel's $20 spray can primer. They are pretty cheap (under $5 I think) so you can buy a can and test it out with one model to see if you like it.
>>
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More work on these scourges. Scheme is looking pretty Joker-y so far, though that wasn't the intent
>>
>>54158389
>>54158427
I used it on these
>>
>>54158418
For under $10 that sounds worth it to at least try. I'll try it out tomorrow and then post the results to see if it's helped (I'm the thinning fag from last thread)
>>
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>>54158258

Non-existant. I don't wanna go too feathery with it because I have another Knight that I'm gonna do a lot of feathers on. I'm making an army of 5 Knights each possessed by a different daemon of Tzeentch. Got good fluff and conversion ideas for all of em except for the Herald. He's gonna be horror-like (as in pic related) and I just need a way to translate this into Knight.
>>
>>54157824
rinse with the dettol itself you mong
>>
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>>54158389
Wasn't me last thread but I regular shill them. I've used the White, Black, and now Grey matte primer. I used it to prime this.
>>
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Couple more brutes done.
>>
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>>54158389
I primed these guys (and plenty of other minis) with grey Rustoleum 2x, and I've been extremely happy each time. Never had a loss of detail due to the primer.
>>
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Valhallan sergeant wip. Gonna have a cable going from the pommel of the mace to the bit on his belt next to the grenades. Anything I should change before I glue everything?
>>
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>>54158697
What models are these?
>>
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/wip/ you gotta help me, I'm at the end of my rope here
I've had these grots sitting in Super Clean for like a week now and the primer (old Chaos Black spray I believe) will not come off. Also, some of the color is still sticking in a few places.
Should I just paint over the primer or leave to soak even longer.
>>
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>>54159099
Another shot
>>
>>54158589
>Wasn't me last thread but I regular shill them.

It was me. My opinion shouldn't count twice, though.

>I've used the White, Black, and now Grey matte primer.

The model on the left was based with Rustoleum white, the model on the right, black.

>>54159030
>What models are these?

They're Ghar from the Beyond the Gates of Antares game.
>>
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>>54159209
>The model on the left was based with Rustoleum white, the model on the right, black.

Duh.
>>
>>54159099
The primer may have bonded to the plastic, in which case it may never come off. My advice would be to take a toothbrush to the bits of color, then paint over the primer.
>>
>>54159254
>The primer may have bonded to the plastic
Well they have been sitting in my basement for the past 5 years so maybe that's it
>>
>>54159254
>>54159295
Also that's the result of me brushing it with a toothbrush. Might need something a little tougher to get the rest off.
>>
>>54159295
Try them in isopropyl alcohol. Imo most things super clean cant strip the alcohol will and vice versa.
>>
>>54159355
Isn't that bad for plastic
>>
>>54159370
Not at all in my experience. It will start to work in minutes but I've left gw plastics in for weeks without damage. Don't use it for resin of course but that's most paint strippers.
>>
>>54159355
>>54159370
>>54159399
I use Non-Acetone Nail Polish remover, just make sure you dont try to trip FineShit in it as I just learned earlier tonight.

R.I.P. traded Ork Weirdboy
>>
>>54158121
This makes mustard gas
>>
>>54159497
Incorrect.
>>
>>54158389
Got it at the recommendation of some model railroaders, two 12oz cans for $6. It's thicker then hobby primers but works great.
>>
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>>54159635
>It's thicker then hobby primers but works great.
>thick
>>
>>54159635
>let's use thick primer so that no matter how much we thin our paints we'll always have a thickly painted model

Even the thinnest spray primers are too thick once you get an airbrush.
>>
>>54159661
>>54159681
ThickER and Thick are not the same thing. You just have to be more careful with it.
>>
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>>54159681
>airbrush
>>
>>54159713
I bet you don't even thin your thinners
>>
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>>54159790
bitch nigger meet me behind the LGS
>>
>>54159813
>mfw FLGS back alley fight club
>>
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Working on some Black Templars for 8th, decided to use assault marine legs for my crusader squads to give them a dynamic feeling.

Been a few years since I've really painted a lot of models, only done a handful of models for friends. Also, apologies for the low picture quality, my phone has a poor camera and my lighting setup is holding the pieces on a sheet of plasticard under my oven hood light.
>>
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Finished the skin for now, Finecast is horrible, feel like all the smaller details are fucked up
>>
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>>54159917
looks breddy good m8y
>>
What's the deal, /wip/?
Why did the work in this thread suddenly fall off a fucking cliff into scrub-ville?
Did you niqqers get complacent or is this just summer shit?
>>
>>54160177
It's because moronic newfags defended all the retarded 5000x5000 8 MB jpg posts

Ever notice all the best painters are also smart enough to crop and resize and take proper photos?

Enjoy the giant, shittily painted miniature photos. It's the kind of breeding grounds thes morons have circlejerked into being.
>>
>>54160177
>middle of the night on a holiday
Hmmm

>>54160200
>poorly sized images are the only cause for how slow /wip/ is
>>
>>54160177
Post your work if you're so great
>>
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>>54160200
There are better FB painting groups now. This place is a HUGBOX.
It really sucks.
>>54160234
I'm not great, but at least I'm trying

Pic related is part of my current personal project (WIP) apologies for it only being tabletop quality. Can post more of it or my current commission jobber.
>>
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>>54160257
Here's the base. Still lots to do on it
>>
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>>54160277
Some of my Dark Souls commission WIP
sorry for the extra shitty picture, only took it to give to the client as proof of progress.
>>
>>54160257
I have to disagree. This place can be fucking brutal, and your shit is way better than a lot of shit that does get posted. It's only a hugbox for the stuff that's really good, they get their dicks sucked. Everyone else gets put to the torch for not being at least 8/10 most of the time.
>>
>>54160293
>ALL THOSE MOLD LINES
>>
>>54159635
All right then I'm convinced.

>>54160277
Next is a genestealer skull, right?
>>
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>>54160324
>genestealer skull
Yeah, gonna put it up against the metal beam.
Might paint some of the dirt creeping up the largest stone as moss. Other than that, the base is done.
>>
>>54160304
No kidding. I was illustrating a point with my models last thread and still got my shit kicked in. /wip/ isn't happy unless you spend 6 hours on a genestealer (but at least it won't look like crap then)
>>
Posted this on /40kg/ but really I should have just posted here.

So, I've got new Seekers I need to make, and since I want them to be viable for fantasy I was thinking of sticking them on the square bases. They're a bit shorter than the rounds, though, so do I need to make some shit to sit them on or wrap around the bases to make them the right size, or can I get away with having them as-is?
>>
>>54158779
It looks really good. You should give him a waist scarf like the original models have though, as well as medals.

What bits/minis are those? I wish gw allowed 3rd party minis as I'd love to us plastics...
>>
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Spoopy
>>
>>54160583
come on, niqqa, I wanna see that dope ass shit painted
>>
>>54160589
Just as soon as I get some spackling to fill gaps
>>
doing mk3 yiffs in regular scheme. Should I use HH transfers or 40k for left pauldron?
>>
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>>54158427
I had a random urge and extra bits and intentionaly made a joker heliarch. Am I a bad person?
>>
>>54160656
>Am I a bad person?
no, just a bad painter
>>
>>54160656
>Am I a bad person?
among other things
>>
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>>54160689
>>54160701
>>
>>54160689
Still working on it need to green stuff the face to make it flush. But it's all wip little painting ADD never hurt nobody senpai.
>>
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>>54160689
>>54160701
Nice
>>
>>54160734
>model is already painted
>I need to greenstuff it
you fucking nigger
>>
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>>54160750
>>54160743
>>54160719
>>54160701
>>54160689
Might as well get roasted on it all! Wyches here.
>>
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>>54160788
How do we improve WIP?
>>
>>54160800
By finding, defeating, and absorbing the soul of someone better than you.
>>
>>54160800
they aint terrible, its just that joker face gave me hemorrhoids
>>
>>54160788
These guys aren't bad so far. post them once they're done.

>>54160800
your highlights are kinda shit. Thin your paint more and do highlights in multiple coats.
I'm not a fan of the color combinations, but on a technical level, the highlights are the only thing that's really not up to snuff.
>>
>>54160800

It's simple, really; we kill the Night Haunter.
>>
>>54160824
correct

>>54160788
paint those mushrooms. skin could use more color, too.

>>54160800
get that sock off your table and go clean your fucking house. >>54160850 is correct. Highlights are a little splotchy and on the green I can't even see them. Work on consistency.

>>54160848
>hemorrhoids
heh
>>
>>54160400
Damn, I forget they had those! For the scarves, I think I'll try sculpting them around the back since I don't want to cover up the molded detail on the front. The medals seem like they would be easy enough to sculpt too.

The bitz list is:
>body, head, arms, and shovel from Warlord Games Winter Russians
>mace from the warhammer flagellant kit
>bolt pistol and "power pack" from the Cadian command squad kit
>backpack from the bullgryn kit

Also, you can solve your no third party minis problem by simply not having a GW store within 200 miles, like me!
>>
>>54160848
Will work on the face I tried to use a needle for the mouth and goofed.
>>54160850
Hadent gotten to going over the highlights more will definitely do that. The pink ones are heat lances and the blue are blasters so I don't have to pick them up all the time. Will post results once stuff is altered though!
>>
>>54160884
The sock is my dry brush cloth haha don't think the green is highlighted yet on any of those bikes though.
>>
If i'm going to get an airbrush, should i get a gravity fed or siphon cup? looking at the iwata eclipse
>>
>>54160996
gravity. The Eclipse is nice.
>>
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So my little brother wanted a cyberwolf, but doesn't have money for one. He had an extra wolf head and two legs, and I had machine bits, a 150mm base, and modeling clay .

How'd I do?
>>
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>>54161127
>>
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>>54161138
>>
>>54161127
>>54161138
>>54161159
10/10
>>
>>54161127
Looks like a cyber-rat, but I'd allow it at my table. I'm sure it'll look better once it's painted and all the extra glue is off of it though.
>>
>>54161138
>>54161159
These sides do it more justice. Your rat-mess has dropped from a 6 to a 3.
>>
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My shit marine from last thread is finished. Any complaints on the assembly, details, etc?
>>
>>54161127
>>54161138
>>54161159
RATTRAP
MAXIMIZE
>>
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>>54161256
Ass view
>>
>>54160996
>should i get a gravity fed or siphon cup?

You wanna die, nigger?
>>
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>>54161127
>>54161138
>>54161159
It's just ridiculous enough that I can't dislike it, but I can't help but feel that it would have been better to sculpt a body out of green stuff. Also, you used way, way too much glue, so much that it may even show up under your primer.
>>
>>54161256
>>54161271
T H I N
H
I
N
>>
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>>54161259
Proxy Cyber-Wolf into proxy Leman Russ
>>
>>54161127
>>54161138
>>54161159
yikes
good try, anon, but you should have known better.
>>
>>54161299
Headed to the store tomorrow to get spray paint primer since imperial primer seems to be part of my troubles.
>>
>>54161256
>>54161271
Hey it's you again. Did you figure out what kind of primer you were using because you still need to go T H I N N E R.

>>54161159
>>54161138
>>54161127
This looks like what a stroke feels like.
>>
>>54161180
>>54161212
>>54161226
>>54161320
>>54161340


I appreciate the feedback!

>>54161259
>>54161212

Hopefully after I clean it up, he'll look less like a rat and more like a really fucked-up cyber wolf. I like to imagine he was found after being REALLY near death, and they placed him in an iron lung or something.

>>54161297
I know, it was a bitch to get the pieces to stay in place. Also I can barely sculpt. I have a nurgle army so my green stuff is more used for slime than anything else.
>>
>>54161301

Transmetal Rattrap was my favorite Beast Wars toy.
>>
>>54161256
>>54161271
Other than the fact his left arm appears to be hanging on by his shoulder pad alone, the assembly looks fine. On the painting, get some more practice then look in to getting a wash and some highlight colors for your paint scheme, also get some zandri dust and usabti bone for the purity seals.
>>
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>>54161340
Hey are you imperial fist anon from last thread? It turned out that I was using imperial primer, which turned out like pic attached. Some other anons suggested I get "Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X" so I'm going to try that next. Also, I tried out your method but I think I need to go farther in thinning.
>>
>>54161388
Actually it's just resting on his shoulder, his arm is attached by the forearm to his gun. It turned out pretty stable, and I'm proud I could get the pose I wanted seeing as I dont know any bending techniques yet.
>>
>>54161391
Yup! So I've used Imperial Primer in the past (through I just spray prime these days) and I usually apply two thin coats of it because it can go on too thick. Looking at your pieces I see texture on the grenade (clip?) holding arm so I think the thick primer is compounding your probably thick paint.
>>
>>54158138

Anyone? I'm leaning towards black since they're a bit darker
>>
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>>54161548
Hopefully the spray paint will help with that. I'll update once I'm done with my next guy, with a step-by-step of making him. Surely then I'll be able to figure out where I'm going wrong. Btw pic is of painted >>54161391 for >>54161256
>>
>>54161595
Do you have any grey? That'd honestly work the best. If not, I'd go with your gut and do black since that's what their shoulders are.
>>
>>54161656

I have a grey, but it's either rustoleum or Krylon, and idk how well it matches GW grey
>>
>>54161684
>>54161656

Also, I usually use that as an actual primer for resin/metal since GW sprays aren't technically a primer. My usual process is spray the grey and then black.
>>
>>54161296
yes, but thats besides the point
>>
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Rebased some Fists onto the Sector Imperialis bases. I'm doing their bolters and shoulders as a batch next.

>>54161622
Generally speaking you want to look for a smooth, non-textured layer of primer and then you know you've got a good canvas for your paintjob. I never asked, but which Chapter are you doing?
>>
>>54161702
I'd ust do black then; seems less complicated.
>>
>>54161786
Actually a friend has been letting me paint up some of his old splines, so I've been doing them up as his chapter, Ultramarines. Not sure what I'll do when I start collecting myself though. Blood Angels maybe? (Or Blood Ravens if I want to use more than just Blood Red).
>>
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>>54161957
>>
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>>54161957
>>54161968
Beautiful yellow, bruvalone
>>
>>54161256
Do you know what water is and how to include it with paint to adjust consistency and flow from the brush?
Do you have a personal grudge against putting gear on the belts of marines?
Is there a reason you have given this man a horrible shoulder injury and left his army dangling by a thread from the top?
Whose balls is he trying to cup?
How fast can he hobble with a boltgun mag-locked to the entire length of his leg?
Are you using actual modeling paints or nonsense from a michaels?
Do you know what a wash is? You should use washes.
Do you know what a mold line is? You should remove them along with the pieces of sprue you failed to clean from the bits. Looking at you, top area of backpack.
Do you know how to put things on the base of a miniature so that they do not stand on a black pog?

Here is your new god. Watch everything he does and do everything he says.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_odi1c7ErCg
>>
Has anyone used any Shapeways stuff like shoulder pads? They're apparently 3d printed, which sounds iffy to me.
>>
>>54161957
>>54161968
Damn that is a sexy yellow
>>
>>54161957
>>54161968

Fantastically executed yellow! I personally prefer my yellow to be a bit more golden/orange when I paint fists, but I like what you've done!
>>
>>54161968
Such a nice, happy box. He makes me feel like I'm excitedly pouring over the color photo here and there in a 3rd edition codex.
>>
>>54162017
>Do you know what water is and how to include it with paint to adjust consistency and flow from the brush?
Working on that
>Do you have a personal grudge against putting gear on the belts of marines?
Honestly, probably
>Is there a reason you have given this man a horrible shoulder injury and left his army dangling by a thread from the top?
Because I didn't have a spacer
>Whose balls is he trying to cup?
Not mine since I wouldn't use boiling water to fix that
>How fast can he hobble with a boltgun mag-locked to the entire length of his leg?
Probably pretty slowly since that's what's keeping his arm on
>Are you using actual modeling paints or nonsense from a michaels?
Citadel shit
>Do you know what a wash is? You should use washes.
I will use a wash on my next dude
>Do you know what a mold line is? You should remove them along with the pieces of sprue you failed to clean from the bits. Looking at you, top area of backpack.
I do and will pay more attention next time I'm cleaning
>Do you know how to put things on the base of a miniature so that they do not stand on a black pog?
I actually like the black bases. Put that lunacy up there with the scout knife and shoulder pouches though

Thank you for the video
>>
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Been painting for 10 hours so far...am I doing this right?
>>
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Just stuck some transfers on my razors so I can tell them apart easier. Will have to weather them a bit
>>
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>>54162164
>>taking criticism.
Yey. For real, that fellow in the video is an endless resource of excellent tutorials, even on really basic stuff. Highly recommend you look into it. I'm sure your next stuff will go better. Even the mightiest painters start out humbly.
>>
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One of two crusaders of my Inquisitor's posse for Shadow War. Thoughts?
>>
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>>54162175
Looks to me like you're doing it left.
>>
>>54162228
I think he looks fantastic. Love the shield. As far as representing a crusader, I think you could have gone a bit harder with the space bits for his weapons to make them more power-weapony but keeping it simple is better aesthetically so I get it. I would maybe consider doing a glow effect on the blade?

Show me the rest of your inquisition things please.
>>
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>>54157553
First completed specc muhreen since I came back to the hobby.

R8 my legionary.
>>
>>54160800
Two thin coats.
>>
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getting there, some mk3 into the mix.
>>
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>>54162025
Yes. They have a slight grain to them from the 3d printing process you need to file or sand off, but it's honestly not too bad and I think it looks fine after. Shoulder pads in picture are from the Pop Goes the Monkey store, which seems to the big one.
>>
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>>
>>54162380
you should put arms on them
>>
>>54162380
>clean shaven SW
>>
>>54162403
Good call on the extra support.
Flimsy model still has me using the classic metal.
>>
Apparently this middle aged british guy who I know used to work for GW back in the day so if you find some old white dwarf magazines that feature some armies with weird as fuck colouring just know that he was colourblind. He never bothered telling them since he thought they were a bunch of jews and whenever he was asked about his weird choices he said something along the lines of him feeling inspired.
>>
>>54162397
Hrm. Cool. Maybe I'll try it out. I'm particularly interested I the Tartaros shoulders since not even FW has any, though I would also need to get transfers anyway.

How well do you think the icons you need to glue on yourself look? You get 60 of them for like $18 and it feels like a much better buy.
>>
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>>54162410
>>When they forget about Ragnar Blackmane.
>>
>>54162410
imo SW are a lot cooler when you only use a little of the tribal flavor.
If I were to do SW I'd give them the old school mohawk with a few cleanly kept beards maybe.

>>54162380
Nice work, dude. Shame we see ice blue space wolves so rarely these days. It's a beautiful color when well painted.
>>
>>54162288
Yup, I agree, but non space marine power sword arms are nonexistent. As for the futuristic edge, his torso and legs are of genestealer neophyte stock, the shield just hid all of it.
>Show me the rest of your Inquisition things please.
Sorry to say he's still the first of the posse. The others will have the neophyte torso and legs, but the head and arms will differ for each. I'm working on a Fenrisian crusader with horned helmet and a broadsword with muscular bare arms next.
>>
>>54160656
Yes, you are. Acceptable comic book Hellion homages include Green Goblin, Hobgoblin, Demogoblin or any other permutation on the "guy that fights Spider-Man on a flying bat rocket" that Marvel's done over the years.

The Joker isn't even close to trying.
>>
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>>54160656
>>random urge
You painted them all in a purple green color scheme and did a banner too. You even shoved clowns in here.
>>54162532 has enumerated the acceptable list of hellion homages. Green goblin would have been very cool and doable and would have matched your scheme. You could even have used a harlequin mask and GS'd a hood and... and... You're a monster! You're a monster, anon!
>>
Rat Cyberwolf-anon here, I want to pursue custom models for units like "chaos spawn". Apart from making sure they are on the same size base, and the same size as the actual model, what should I take into consideration?
>>
>>54158657
>>54122973

Looks pretty great anon! My only suggestion would be to do something additional to the weapons. Right now I think it looks too flat with just the bland silver.

What about doing a much darker metal as a base, and then applying the silver highlights in brush strokes away from the blades edges to makes it look much more savage and brutish.

Or just some sort of wash to bring out the recesses and details?
>>
>>54162403

How did you paint the black/gold? TELL ME EVERYTHING
>>
>>54159978
Yo dude that looks real good, how you do that
>>
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wip Poxwalkers on top row,

the difference between top and bottom is literally 4 different coloured washes ( sepia, purple, green-brown, red)

No highlights, just basing and a fine point pen on the eyes.
>>
>>54162951
>No highlights
Damn, coulda fooled me
>>
>>54162951
those eyes look great
micron pen?
>>
>>54163023
That's the joy of washes over pure white and silver.
>>
What's wrong with Astrogranite Debris? It doesn't seem to work.
>>
>>54162951
you missed a mold line on the spikey mace
>>
>>54157824
So with dettol, scrub them without water to remove ALL the paint residue first.
We've all made this mistake.
Metholated spirits can be bought at poundland or any supermarket. That will remove the sticky residue with a quick dunk and rinse.
I've been told it's safe on the plastic, but make it brief just to be safe.
>>
I am thinking of making a display/carrying base for my army to quickly and safely move it, as it has a lot of models of varying heights that don't fit neatly in a carrying case.

I was thinking of getting a thin sheet of steel, texturing and painting the top with some wood around the edges, then putting magnets in the bases of all the models (73 in total)

Has anyone done anything like this?
>>
>>54163217
Magnetic movement trays were (are) very common with warhammer fantasy players so I recommend you look there on how to do it best.
>>
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I showed u my minis tg anser me
>>
>>54163320
That's an angry roomba
>>
>>54163269
thanks for the tip on that.

Looks like a steel sheet is the way to go if I can get one in a non-huge size, and then just buy a bunch more of the rare earth magnets I've been using for everything else.

I also saw some tutorials that recommenced steel foil applied to wood or plastic, but I live near several hardware stores so a steel sheet will be much easier to get.
>>
>>54163411
You can get sheets of 0.9mm flex steel for next to nothing either online or from hobby stores.
>>
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>>54163507
I recommend you grant the Emperor's Peace to those valiant souls.
>>
>>54163507
Edge highlight your blacks with a dark grey so you can see the details and definition of the model.
>>
Sup /wip/
I need siege shields for my iron warriors vehicles, any suggestions on 3rd party bits? or should i just build my own from plasticard?
>>
>HQ
Warboss w/Attack Squig, Power Klaw, Kombi-Skorcha
Weirdboy w/Da Jump
Weirdboy w/Da Jump

>TROOPS
29 x Boyz w/Slugga & Choppa, 1 Boss Nob w/PK
29 x Boyz w/Slugga & Choppa, 1 Boss Nob w/PK
29 x Boyz w/Slugga & Choppa, 1 Boss Nob w/PK

>ELITES
12 x Kommandos, 1 Boss Nob w/Big Choppa, 2 Kommandos w/Burna
12 x Kommandos, 1 Boss Nob w/Big Choppa, 2 Kommandos w/Burna
12 x Kommandos, 1 Boss Nob w/Big Choppa, 2 Kommandos w/Burna
4 x Nobz w/Big Choppas and Kombi-Skorchas, 1 Boss Nob w/PK and Kombi-Skorcha
4 x Nobz w/Big Choppas and Kombi-Skorchas, 1 Boss Nob w/PK and Kombi-Skorcha
2 x Nobz on Bike, 1 w/Choppa, 1 w/Big Choppa, 1 Boss Nob on Bike w/Power Klaw

>DEDICATED TRANSPORT
Trukk
Trukk

How will this list fare against blue commie xenos?
>>
>>54163546
If you think you can do a good job with plasticard, do it.
>>
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>>54163552
>>>/40kg/
>>
>>54163575
Yeah, I know, as soon as I posted I realized I was in the wrong tab
>>
>>54163494
yeah and I have some 1/16" wood laying around that I forgot about to attach any thin steel sheets to, with wood stain to pretty up the wood too, and drawer handles that could easily be screwed to wood. This project might end up being really cheap and quick.
>>
>>54163552
There's not much point specifying that you take boss nobs anymore because they're free.
>>
>>54163624
Only did it to specify that they were the ones holding certain weapons
>>
>>54163546
puppetswar, forgeworld or chinaman
>>
>>54163522
Christ is it that bad?
>>
>>54163122
I used 0.1 mm Staedtler pen
>>
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And more vanilla death guard!
Did what anons recommended me, change the highlights, and improve the bases.
Only need to touch up the lenses and the head-granades. Thoughts?
>>
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>>54163706
Test model I posted for reference.
>>
>>54163674
Well. The sprue nubs haven't been cleaned, gaps haven't been filled, paint seems thick and messy and they generally look like they've been barely basecoated.
>>
>>54163706
I preferred the non green ones, but these are still pretty cool.
>>
>>54162228
>>54162380
>>54162403
Today is a good wip day.
>>
>>54163745
>tfw I really worked on those
Still, very helpful criticism, thanks
>>
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Paints came out a little thick but I got drunk for 4th :-(

What should I use to highlight the blues on the casing(incubi darkness)? Thinking administratum grey or ahriman blue?
Also any tips for screens and buttons?
>>
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>>54163773
We all start that way, my dude. Try again, get better, repeat.

Here, have one of my first marines to cheer you up.
>>
>>54158059
If you fail to get a new part, some wire properly sized could be glued to the part where your cousin cut it off.

In future he should be given his own models to ruin. Orks or Crons would be best.
>>
>>54163817
Mix the 2 colors. For the screen you cant go wrong with bright green.
>>
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Wip of my warboss
>>
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Decided to repaint my old eldar army, got a new farseer for the occasion
I still have to paint some parts like the soulstones, but what do ou think of the result so far?
>>
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Added another Big Shoota to the monster, as well as a door from the Taurox for the grots to use. Just need to make a beefier door on the other side, add the tracks and rivets, and it'll be ready to paint.
>>
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Just finished my test model for the poxwalkers from the new set. Any constructive criticism or feedback?
>>
What colours would you use to get the armour on these guys? I'm thinking of starting a Tau army, I like the look of this scheme (probably gonna do green fatigues though).
>>
>>54164525
VGC Earth, Khaki, Bonewhite and Deadwhite.
Maybe Charred Brown for the blacklining on the armor.
Sombre Grey for the grey parts.

How I'd paint it:
>base armor Charred Brown
>layer Earth, but leave Charred Brown in the recesses
>edge highlight Khaki.

>base fatigues Khaki
>layer Bonewhite, but leave Khaki in the recesses
>edge highlight Deadwhite

>base armor and gloves with black (VGC or any other)
>mix 1:1 sombre grey and do a broad edge highlight
>use pure sombre grey to do sharp edge highlights

VGC is what I have at the moment, but also they are close color matches to old GW colors.
>>
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>>54164563
Thanks dude, this is a big help!

I'm thinking of having the fatigues a bit like this (quick photoshop mockup), and maybe changing the sept stripes to a dark red, the blue doesn't really work.
>>
>>54164609
If you're going for accurate lore, the sept stripes should always be of the same recognizable color
>>
>>54164659
Yeah, I'd make all the Sept iconography red, I just think the blue will look kinda hideous, especially when it's covering a whole shoulderpad.
>>
>>54164609
>I'm thinking of having the fatigues a bit like this
I'd say that looks a lot like VGC camouflage green.
So you could just switch Khaki and Bonewhite with Cayman Green and Camouflage green. Though Cayman is a bit darker than your shadows there.

A quick look at the GW color chart looks like Death World Forest and Elysian Green would give you a similar result with GW colors.

If you make the stripes red I'd consider a different color for the lenses though.
>>
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>>54164686
I thought that too, but the red lenses and stripes actually looks kinda nice? I thought it'd be too much red but I don't mind this. (Excuse the mediocre Photoshop job)
>>
>>54163706
What program did you use to create the collage?
>>
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newbie here

working on dark angels, getting sick of "only green" so I´m trying out different things.
Ushabti bone and agrax earthshade works really fine for surfaces
>>
>>54158389
>>54158418
>desperatly looking for a Citadel primer alternative
>Rustoleum is more expensive than Citadel sprays where I live

Life is suffering.
>>
>>54164699
Yeah you are right. Looks pretty solid actually.

The sept markings have a bit more brown in them than the lenses though. More of a terracotta.
If you go pure red on the sept marking that may look a bit too aggressive against the armor.
I'm just theorycrafting here though, you can just try it in photoshop.

What are your plans for basing? Swamp, forest or jungle? Anything like that?
>>
>>54164736
Army Painter is around half the price of GW stuff I think.
And you get a lot out of it. One can should last for over 50 28mm miniatures easily.

And you can buy matching basetones with it too.

Not as cheap as stuff from a DIY store, but still.

If you are in Germany Brückenkopf has an article about spraypaints from Toom.
>>
>>54164746
I was thinking forest, but swamp isn't something I'd considered, that could look pretty cool.
>>
>>54164766
>If you are in Germany Brückenkopf has an article about spraypaints from Toom.

Perfect. I have a can of grey Army Painter and am severly dissapointed by it, the spray head is gushing paint like no tommorow which resulted in too thick, uneven coats. Maybe it's a bunk can because I've read pretty much only praise about AP primers but I'm reluctant to purchase another can.

How is the Mechanicus Grey GW primer compared to the standard black one (with which I have had no problems ever)?
>>
>>54164845
The only issue I've noticed with the AP cans I've had is that some seem to have tiny leaks at the bottom. Could be from rough handling, but so far I've noticed it on two of the cans I've had.
Nothing major, you just end up with a wad of paint on the bottom of the can, but still... kind of freaked me out the first time I noticed it. It's a pressurized container after all.

Aside from that they are pretty good. Never had an issue with them.
When I use a spray can I usually do several thin coats rather than one thick one.
>>
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weeabork update:
think I'm ready to prime the jin roh boy, though I'm not sure if I should try making the studs a bit bigger and risk making them look worse
>>
>>54164307
Wasn't 100% happy so I went in and did some more highlights on the legs, horns and the nurgle-goo.

Based properly now too.

Thoughts?
>>
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>>54165021
Shit, forgot the pic.
>>
>>54163926
I like the muted green you've got. You need to make the barrel hole a little bigger and remove the extra plastic around the hole with tweezers or a knife if you have to. The purple looks too clean and new for an ork to wear it, his belt buckle looks sloppy and flat, the pants need better camo than that. Even if you want it to look orky, there are better ways than just putting down a bad paint job. The checks and dags are sloppy. For some reason orks can make checks and dags right but nothing else. Don't ask me why, I'm just calling it how I see it.
>>
>>54163971
You've slopped the white part of the helmet onto the black part. The blue looks really dull, but you could probably change that moving forward. I really like the way that blade looks, though. Odd that you would hide the only good part, but from what I can see it looks good.
>>
>>54164733
Neat. Looks like a Mantis Warrior.
>>
>>54164700
Im a filthy mobile poster so I used an app called photo editor.
>>
>>54164102
It needs more width. Add some shoota gantries to the sides.

Those eyes look like they're glowing but the glowing effect ends suddenly and goes back to the whites of the eyes. It doesn't look right. And I'm not talking "doesn't look right" in a good way, I mean it looks cartoony. The boils are too solid and flat. One technique I've seen is painting them yellow, then applying a red wash, paint, or technical paint to them, and then wiping the top off to create a pussy center. That looks like what you did, kind of, but the boils need more blood surrounding them. The maggots are also the same color as the tumors and that's fine if you're speed painting and just want to get this tabletop ready but if you want my criticism there it is.
>>
>>54165037
The horns need more highlights (drybrushing) and it looks like you didn't paint the teeth at all,
>>
>>54162437
>imo SW are a lot cooler when you only use a little of the tribal flavor.

think so. GW went over the top with the fur and pelts all over the place.
>>
>>54165062
thanks for response and criticism, at least i know where i have to work it out, instead of "i like it".
>>
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This guy Isn't done yet, but what do you guys think about him so far? Before I say what else I plan on doing with him, what do you think he needs done?
>>
>>54165232
>what do you think he needs done
Non drybrushed armour
>>
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How would I do the flaking effect like on this model?
>>
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I decided to paint my Dark Imperium Marines as Imperial Fists, because I already paint enough blue stuff.

I quickly discovered that transfers are a paint in the arse. Are there any ways to effectively get rid of "ripples" in a transfer on a curved surface, or is cutting them with a knife my only option?
>>
>>54165062
It's because they make the grots do it
>>
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>>54165257
Also need to find a way to make the base look less like "moon that has snow for some reason" and more like "battle damaged city" without much in the way of access to spare terrain bits.
>>
>>54165256
Those technical paints that people put on bases.
>>
>>54165257
What are you using to transfer? Don't use water.
>>
>>54165257
With round transfers I found that cutting a straight line from the outside to the center is the only workable solution.
Also, looks pretty nice except for the lenses. You should consider doing either a glowing effect or paint an actual lense.
>>
>>54165167
I actually did the teeth in pure white, the wash muted it too much. Thanks for the input.
>>
>>54165279
cork streets with rubble and snow
>>
>>54165290
I am using water. What should be used as an alternative? I have never heard of anybody using something other than water before.

>>54165294
They seem to kind of take the shape of the thing on the transfer. The round one was actually less of a pain than the bloody arrow.
As for the glow effect, that was originally the plan, but it looked silly and I was getting tired so I decided to tone it down. I will probably try again at some point.
>>
>>54165395
there's microsol and microset
>>
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Will probably go back on some elements like the blue dots or the green toxin in the near future but let's call it a day for now.

There's X-wing ships and Dark angels waiting.
>>
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>>54165452
Oups forgot to resize the first image, my bad.
>>
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>>54165478
>>
>>54157831
>not wearing jeans
Heretic.
>>
>>54165452
armour and suit looks genuinely reflective. well done.
>>
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>>54162826
Just did the standard
Warboss Green
Thraka wash (biel tan wash now I think)
Goblin Green (Vallejo Game Color)
Escorpena Green (Vallejo)

Those last two have GW equivalents
>>
>>54162403

I'm triggered by that pink paint not being closed correctly
>>
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Nabbed this for about 30 bucks.
They will be conscripts and bassy loaders.
>>
>>54165711
The old IG metals were sooo good.
Can't believe I wasn't more into the models back then.
Oh well.
I burned all my pocket money buying deathwing terminators. These days nobody would even look at the metal models anymore.
>>
>>54165537
>Reply

I wish my syringes had Ketchup and Mustard.
>>
>>54160177
>>54160200
I dunno, I kinda think what makes /wip shit are people like you guys - someone fucking ANGRY about other people sucking who also happens to have the thickest, messiest highlights, and the fucking third worlders who are on fucking dialup and want everyone else to know. Go to an internet cafe, they must still have those where you are from
>>
>>54165734
They're really neat sculpts and they fit beside valhallans also. I noticed until I bought it that wounded new cadian model, I see that guy going for like 30 alone on ebay. No idea what I'll do with it though
>>
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weh wub primaris incoming

Hate the fluff, love the models
>>
>>54165773
Mine are always filled with them anon
>>
>>54163926
that skin is aces, my man
>>
>>54165809
Sorry if this sounds harsh, but you really, really need to work on your edge highlights.
Some of the lines on this thing look like the brush was half dry while you were painting. What is going on there?
>>
>>54165809
Clean up your highlights. Like, a lot. Right now they look splotchy to the point they seem more like random blots of paint than actual highlights.

Thin the paint you are using to highlight slightly more than usual, then carefully apply it onto the area with as few strokes as you can. The highlights should look continuous, and they should be thin. They are there to draw attention to the detail, rather than being the detail themselves.
>>
>>54165809
>>54165848
Yeah, that's just sloppy. Keep practicing, getting the ratio of water to paint correct when edge highlighting successfully takes time.
>>
>>54165809
It looks like someone took a bright green crayon to his armor. Salamanders sure are good with the kids!
>>
>>54164914
i fucking love you and everything you post, my guy
>>
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>>54163971
I used some ink to make the blue coat less monotonous and also worked on the soulstones, and also corrected some small details

What do you think now ? Should I try and put more different shades of blue to make the coat less dull ? I could also try to paint runes but I'm not too confident with this
>>
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>>54167007
The coat definitely needs some soft highlights on the creases and the edges. Try mixing your base blue with the next most bright, and getting a nice inbetween that will subtly stand out.
>>
>>54167007
Yeah you should continue to work on the coat. It's kinda hard since the only real way to have a nice tissue is to apply a lot of layer, going more and more toward a lighter tone, same for the shadow but with a darker tone.

Don't rush it, add slighty more white to your painting, it can take half a dozen layers to have a nice coat, especially since this model's coat doesn't have deep folds.
>>
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>>54164525
Follow your dreams anin
>>
>>54163729
Colors used?
>>
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My Big Mek on a bike. I've got a magnet up top for switching between shokk attack gun and KFF, though I haven't finished building a KFF yet.
>>
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Settled on an iron warriors scheme.
>>
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>>54167614
Stupid sideways pic.
>>
How would one go ahead painting a Blood Axes Weirdboy? Axes colors always confuse me as to what they actually are
>>
>>54167606
I see General Grievous has been lending out his bike
>>
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>>54164914

oh jeez, I didn't notice all that filth on him, though it's to be expected considering I used cotton balls in my makeshift model case

still need some feedback on those shoulder pad studs


in more pressing matters I'm trying to do what thi guy did with his blood bowl team

http://warhammer.org.uk/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=13439

specifically the samurai hair, though I don't know whether to let it recede like he did or make my boy less bald
>>
>your friend buys a baneblade

>he builds the non turreted version

Now my orks have a baneblade turret. Gotta build something worth carrying it...
>>
Any possibility my models will be damaged if i leave metal models in acetone nail polish remover overnight?
>>
>>54167949

Mount on Boy is clearly the only way
>>
>>54167951
No; Metal is basically the hardest model to fuck up. Acetone will strip paint and most super glues.
>>
what's so special about johnny?
>>
>>54164914
Studs are good; if you fuck with 'em you'll probably be sad

>>54167907
Bald Boi all the way
>>
>>54167663
What's up with your paint? It's super grainy and really retracts from the mini
>>
>>54168380
Looks like Typhus Corrosion painted over?
>>
>>54157860
i use nailpolish-remover without acetone,
it cost 2 $ fo small bottle and after 30-40 sec its cleaning few paint layers without dmg mini(plastic resin,metal)
>>
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>>54167471
Armor is 75/25 russian uniform and bright green. Athonian camoshade went on the armor and the smoke. Agrax on everything else. Highlights are just lighter version colors, I think you get the idea.
>>
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These contagion lords are all the rage, huh? Here's mine. Comments?
>>
>>54168380
It's typhus corrosion mix wash,the goal is a cast iron look.
It's not nearly as grainy in person.
>>
>>54169277
Never seen a white contagion lord before. Is he supposed to be from World Eaters?
>>
>>54169277
I dig the white armour, but I tink you should make it a bit more dirty
>>
>>54169390
not all nurgle based warbands are green btw
>>
>>54169277
it's a striking look
>>
>>54169390
Nah, I made a renegade chapter based off the sons of malice. So, white armor with black trim and brass rather than quartered.
>>
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>>54169277
Dirty up that armor and you'll have a very nice pre-heresay color scheme
>>
>>54169477
>>54169390
>what are "Your guys"
people can paint whatever army however they wish.
I got told that using red wash for my Poxwalkers, as to make the skin flushed from feverish sickness, made then look Slanneshi, since "only slaanesh can use pinkish tones"

people need to open their minds more, man
>>
>>54158138
I've done about 120 Carcharodons at this point, I primed them grey, did a super coat of Vallejo black wash over that. Then I used Vallejo Neutral Grey as 2 drybrush stages. The first was more a layer than a drybrush, but you know what I mean. So grey, black wash, grey, less grey. Shoot me an email at kiltedbruce@gmail, and I'll send you some pictures when I get back home. And I'd love to hear what you're doing for exile marks and tattoos.
>>
>>54169557
All we're saying is it's like painting Khorne stuff blue. Not /wrong/, but really different.
>>
>>54167663
Looks great.

Just one tiny thing. Maybe do more highlights on the collar, or paint it brass.
>>
>>54169600
I ay be wrong, but I distinctly remember a white armoured death guard warband being canon in one of the older csm codices
>>
>>54169600
uh, its nothing like that at all.
http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Lords_of_Decay
>>
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So I got my Mountain King on the way and this will be the first time I've ever painted something so big.
Any tips for painting large models such as this?
>>
>>54169600
>Khorne stuff blue
I've seen an anons Yellow-armored khornates, and they looked great. Blue can very well work, as long as you get the tone correct, and probably chip it a bit.
>>
>>54162403
Teach me your ways
>>
White contagion lord guy here.
I appreciate the feedback, but anon, don't devolve into nuances about armor just yet.
I want to keep my armor somewhat clean l, while gri.ier than loyalist chspters. But good points were raised. This is a nurgle lord, so I should probably dirty up the armor some more. And I will with some typhus and agrax, but I'm going to try and keep it to recesses mostly as I don't want to lose the color too much.
And for reference, here's more of my dudes.
I originally wanted to go undivided, but marks, death guard, and alpha legion are so damn fun.
>>
>>54169717
Looks pretty simple.
1 white primer
2 basecoats. Light blue, stone, steel, red, tiny stuff.
3. Drybrush Blues, and stone. Highlight reds,
4. Blue wash, sepia wash, black wash, red wash.
5. Re-highlight and do eyes etc.
>>
>>54167663
This guy welds
>>
>>54167606
I don't know if it's the photo but I think that model would look better if the tire was a lighter grey.

Still a nice model.
>>
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>>54169964
kek
>>
>>54169931
No no, I'm not talking about what colors to use, that's the easy part.
I'm more talking about assembly and actually painting it.
>>
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>Want to ask /wip/ for advice
>Take photo
>See pic of my shitty painting
Who else can't even colour within the lines here?

Incompetence aside - I'm aware of my most glaring problems and basically need practise - how's my colour scheme? Not sure what to do with the hands to break up the blob of silver in the middle. More red doesn't feel right.

And yes, picking yellow as a noob was a mistake.
>>
>>54160788

The wytch with the gauntlets... on the base... is that ET's face?
>>
>>54169877
These look lovely. Do you have a bigger pic ?
>>
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>>54160788
>>54170157

Oh god, someone put it out of its misery
>>
>>54170056
don't know about assembly, but Painting won't be an issue, because this models got a very limited number of colours.

I honestly reckon it'd only take about 3 hours to paint ( of actual painting, not drying)
>>
>>54169277
It looks well painted, just the white falls into the same problems as always where it looks flat.
>>
>>54170066

Need to thin the paints more; for yellow you may need to do 3-10 layers of thin coats to make it look good.

Add washes to give depth; color scheme works well, yellow is bright but when washed will be toned down!
>>
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Okay, bit of dirtying and touchups made, highlighted the black, might have overdone the blood.

>>54170197
Apparently I don't. I accidentally resized that pic too small and replaced the original like an idiot. Never phone post images.
>>54170327
I started painting these guys when I was shittier (still kinda shit) and haven't wanted to go back and redo them. I agree on white. It's a bitch and a half if you ask me. Why I wanted it across two damn armies I'll never understand.
>>
>>54170066
The scheme works, to break it up you could darken either the gun or the guys cybernetics. Basically just have one or the other with a brighter metal, while the other would have a darker one. Maybe mix some blue wash in with nuln oil for the gun.
>>
>>54170433
>thin the paints more
Yeah, that's one of the main things I need to work on. Really struggling to get it thin enough without being a wash. Though that one guy's back is really weirdly grainy.

>toned down
Why would I want that? I didn't pick yellow to skulk around in the shadows. I've washed the armour though, and will do the gun.

I'd rather have less saturation than less brightness. Can I do that other than by using other paints or mixing?

Oh, and what about the base? Apparently goblin green is out of fashion for some reason.

>>54170947
Hmm, a slightly blue wash on the gun might help pick it out. Thinking about doing some spots in copper, or might save that for the alpha.
>>
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So I'm getting my first spray paint primer, and could only find grey. That won't fuck me over, right? Also, I should stay about a foot away and be careful while applying, right?
>>
>>54171234
I have that one, I use it in place of black. Also have a can of white for brightly colored stuff. I try and keep a foot or so away, but my area is windy and it gets annoying.
>>
>>54171234
>and could only find grey
I find extremely difficult to believe that there was no black
>>
>>54171278
There were about a hundred colors, but they were all paint + primer, instead of just primer like I wanted. They only had grey and cherrywood red under actual primer.
>>
>>54169717
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HjkO44H-AU
>>
>>54171234
spray in short bursts moving over the model. start left (or) right of the model, move across it and stop spraying. Never start a pass while aiming directly at it.
>>
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it really pisses me off that I cant get my DA like the ones on the dark vengeance box. I dont know how 'eavy metal did them but theyre my perfect dark angel goal. Duncan's guide for DV marines were basic as hell and the citadel guide is lame too. Every dark angel ive seen IRL looks too much like a salamander or too close to pure black
>>
I have a resin model from Raging Heroes, but I don't feel like priming it with a spray can like they say you should in the paper it comes with. It's my first resin model, so is it really not that big a deal and I can prime it by hand, or will the model explode if I don't use spray-on?
>>
>>54171703
it basically needs long experience in painting to be this good
but I have found this guide, it may help you
http://taleofpainters.blogspot.co.at/2012/04/tutorial-how-to-paint-like-eavy-metal.html
>>
>>54171884
one thing that really kills me is how they did the highlight on the beak without making it look like it has a sharp edge
>>
>>54171875
priming by hand is certainly possible. I would give the model a good wash to be sure that it's free from mold-release or the paint might not stick to it at all.
>>
>>54171234
I used it once, and had a hell of a hard time telling where I had coverage and where I didnt. Depending on the shade, it's nearly indistinguishable from the plastic itself.

I like that brand, though. Went on thin enough for me to prime them over again with black
>>
>>54172063
That was the first thing I did when I got it in the mail. I mean, I know -some- stuff about resin, like how to reshape it and that you have to wash it off, but I didn't know there was evidently a particular way to prime it. But thanks mandude. Sounds like there wont be any issue if I just slap my white primer on it.
>>
>>54172212
It certainly should create much of an issue. Assuming you're not using corrosive paint (why would anyone do such a thing), it won't harm the resin any more than it would plastic, ie. not at all.
>>
>>54172281
Shouldn't*

It's getting too late here, missed that particular typo.
>>
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Working on my gatorman, still got a couple fuckups to fix
>>
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Also the fish monsters that are going to get set in a scene and submerged in a block of clear plastic-a-like
>>
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Finished my Tzaangors
>>
if I cover the bottom of a box in magnetic sheet do I just need to glue some metal to the underside of the model's base?
>>
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And the finished Tzeentch warband for Skirmish
>>
>>54172777
That seems logical. You'll have to make sure the metal base will be able to touch the sheet though.
>>
how likely is an emperor's children/slaanesh range update within the next 6 months?
>>
>>54172965
It's GW, your guess is as good as ours, however since the last major event was chaos and space wolves I doubt it';ll be chaos again. Probably an ultramarine foe, so basically anyone...
>>
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I ordered a tyrannosaur model to steal the head for my gargantuan squiggoth build, but estimated the size wrong. It's too big. Might be able to steal the lower jaw and teeth, but no idea what to do with the rest of it. Got too many projects on the go to start a cyber-squigzilla with no rules just for the hell of it. Can't see anyone paying decent money on e-bay for a partial kit. Takes up too much space to keep for a rainy day. Anyone got any suggestions?
>>
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>>54173084
>1:13
>>
>>54173051
yea..basis only them having done thousand sons and death guard that they'd continue on through.
>>
>>54173084
Dino Riders it up and add robotic parts (arms, lower jaw) and armor
>>
>>54173084
Call it a loss and give it to your kid brother/son/cousin/etc. They'll probably really love it.
>>
>>54173084
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_scale_model_sizes
>>
>>54172666
>>54172838
very nice stuff
>>
>>54172965
Likely schedule is something like:

Late July: Space Marines (confirmed). New models: various primaris guys (apothecary, chaplain and heavy weapons squad at least) and vehicles (dread, tank).
Early August: Grey Knights (confirmed). Likely models: a character or two.
Late August: Chaos Space Marines (confirmed). Likely models: either Fabious Bile and his experiments or new daemon engines. Possibly nothing.
Early September: Death Guard (confirmed). Likely new models: plague terminators, plague tank, giant beast, mortarion.
Late September: Blood Angels (speculation). Likely new models: BA specific primaris.
Early October: Tyranids (speculation). Likely new models: god knows. Maybe nothing.
Late October: Chaos Daemons (speculation). Likely new models: great unclean one?
Early November: Space Wolves (speculation). Likely new models: primaris wolves, Leman Russ.
>>
>>54173458
what is the lore for that shit anyway, like how the primaris integrate into chapters? They're all of a sudden covered in wolf pelts and runestones whatever?
>>
>>54173133
It's actually closer to 1:20 unless it's meant to be a juvenile or something. Still too big to graft the whole head onto the supposedly 1:13 (actually about 1:16, almost exactly the same size as the FW GS) styracosaurus body I'm using.
>>54173183
That was what I was thinking, along with a bunch of metal spikes running down the back to give it a 'godzilla' profile. That would be a huge project with limited payoff though.
>>54173287
Unfortunately don't have any relatives or friends with relatives the right age. My nephew is too young for any kind of kit.
>>54173312
This series is completely arbitrary size. The styracosaurus uses half the pieces from the triceratops kit despite being a much smaller animal.
>>
>>54173458
>No Orks
Why live?
>>
>>54173458
>primaris marine dread late july

pls be true

>>54173534
primaris marine were made with collected gene seed samples from all space marine legions (before the horus humbug) and their primarchs, so they're basically tailor made for each respective major chapter.

They're also GW's "new army" they were teasing before 8th edition of 40k, so you can either add primaris marines to your existing forces or player them entirely separately.
>>
>>54173534
The primaris process is something that is added on top of the marine transformation. The first ones were made using gene-stock taken from various chapters as tithe, but any marine can be transformed into a primaris. The technology has been disseminated and now all the notable chapters are making their own primaris marines from both new initiates and veterans.
>>
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lava is hard
>>
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>>54173638
>The primaris process is something that is added on top of the marine transformation. The first ones were made using gene-stock taken from various chapters as tithe, but any marine can be transformed into a primaris. The technology has been disseminated and now all the notable chapters are making their own primaris marines from both new initiates and veterans.

OK, I missed that part.

I saw that Primaris Marines were being rushed into the field to shore up chapters that had suffered grave losses (as well as entirely new chapters, just like a normal Founding), so I was trying to figure out what a Primaris Captain would be. Many chapters have captains named explicitly in the fluff - some of whom even have rules for them - and I didn't think they'd just calmly step aside while some Chad in Gravis Armour puts on his bars 'n' starts orderin' 'is ladz around.
>>
Anything wrong with spray painting the whole sprue? I'll have to get rid of the mold lines afterwards but that's better than pieces rolling while I'm spraying.
>>
>>54173638
This makes Primaris much more acceptable to me and now I want to make an entire chapter of them fuck you
>>
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How do you pull off that darker, duller scheme Forge World likes to put on their Salamanders?

I like it more than the brighter look Games Workshop's painters do.
What paints do I need for this kind of look?
I especially like the way that Contemptor in the pic looks.
>>
>>54171943
Check out painting Buddha wet blends and glazes video on YouTube
>>
>>54172838
>Skirmish
what are you counting the Gaunt Summoner as?
>>
>>54174074
As a Gaunt Summoner. 20 points for him, a Tzaangor and 2 Karic Acolytes, for a total of 30 pts for a campaign I will be playing in.
>>
>>54173907
Shade all the way down to black, desaturate your highlights (i.e. add white, not yellow to the base green) basically.
>>
>>54174281
Any specific paints I should use to get that color of green though? I know Games Workshop's Salamanders scheme is Waaagh! Flesh as the base coat with Warpstone Glow as the main layer cover to get their bright, clean green, what's the best paints to use for this?
>>
>>54173790
You end up with huge pieces of model with no primer? Best method is to part assemble, glue back onto sprue at the surface you will be joining and then spray that.
>>54173768
Also, the timeline has advanced a hundred years (for Guilliman at least, different amounts of time passing depending on proximity to the great rift, warp travel, etc.). The date is still 999.M41 though, because there was a bureaucratic error which made the previous calendar wildly inaccurate
>>
>>54173907
According to the HH masterclass book they basecoated with Vulkan Green which is their Airbrush color, which might be different from GW's greens. Then edge highlights of straken green followed by another edge highlight of moot green more selectively, They also use Sycorax Bronze for their metals.
>>
>>54174332
I don't know what the current names for GW paints are, but you basically just need a well-saturated yellow-green (like fresh grass), white and a black wash. The green will seem bright, but the black and white will soon dull it down to that dark olive.
>>
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183KB, 1152x864px
Changed my demolisher to a punisher with lascannon and multi meltas
>>
>>54174332
Just guessing, but a base of moot green over white (or caliban green, warpstone glow and moot green to build up from black) followed by highlights of gauss blaster green and white scar and a whole load of nuln oil should do the trick.
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