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WIP - Work In Progress General

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Thread replies: 357
Thread images: 105

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No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>In the face of death, I shall have no remorse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_ZgyNoHtjw

>Previous Thread:
>>54084623
>>
LET THE 5000x5000 8MB PNG POSTING COMMENCE
>>
Painting a Cadmus knight (bottle green / yellow) and I'm trying to figure out a color for the eyes.

The 5 minutes I spent reading about color theory suggests purple, but I feel like it would look weird. Any advice?
>>
Death watch termies sound cool, any ideas where I can get some/lots of termy left arms?
>>
>>54110337
http://www.bitzbox.co.uk/

can set an alert if they're out of stock
>>
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Rackham Confrontation models I'm painting.
>>
>tfw the auction you're watching is undergoing a bidding war

What's the point? We're just going to end up sniping at each other.
>>
How the fuck do you use spray paint?

I have been modeling for 5 years now and I never had a problem before but in the past year or so more and more stuff just keeps coming out with tons of raised bumps all over it. I can't exactly afford an airbrush either.
>>
>>54110337
>What is ebay and how does it work?
>>
>>54110862
Set your highest amount to like .55 in the last minute. Most people bid to round amounts like the dollar or the fifty cent/pence mark - I win most of my auctions in this way.
>>
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Basing day for the wyches and Kabalites. pic is the wyches thus far
>>
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>>54111166
And the Archon with kabalites. Do you normally paint the rocks? Or do anything else on the basing front?
>>
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Where's the best place to get basing slate in bulk? I have a lot of models I need to base and GW texture paints only go so far in making something look nice.
>>
>>54111203
You are probably better off using woodchips or bark. Would kind of give you the same texture, but you can still drill, sand and cut it.
Slate is hard. It's a pain to use for basing if you want to pin something.

Woodchips and bark are things you shuold be able to find in any flower shop as deco material or whatever.
>>
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drone WIP.

I used texture paint in the fans to give it a really disgustingly dirty look.
>>
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So who likes genestealer cultists and Raven guard?
>>
>>54111612
I don't like the mold line and undrilled barrel on the raven guard, also the base and the tabard are a bit too similar in colour for me, it just blends in with the base.
Skintone looks quite nice though.
>>
>>54111104
>What is shitposting and how do I stop?
>>
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Got pedro all based and washed, time for layers and highlights
>>
>>54112072
>cactus on base
the absolute fucking madman
>>
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Worked on the cables and started filling in gaps
>>
>>54112072
muy bien
>>
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>>54112122
>>
>>54111393
I like it.

AK interactive worth checking out if you wanna disappear down the weathering rabbit hole.
>>
>>54112072
Me parece bien, hefe.
>>
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Vampire chads primed and ready to go.

Tfw had two left and ran out of mephiston red spray

Life is suffering
>>
>>54112857
BUY MORE SPRAY ANON!!!
>>
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>>54112927

I'm waiting until payday because poorfag
>>
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>>54112072
And here he is about done, just waiting for the technical to dry before moving to finishing touches
>>
>>54112133

Legitimately excited to see how this all turns out.
>>
>>54112133

What is this a mini Chaos Warhound? It looks cool.
>>
>>54112970
I know that feel
but in my case, payday is only three days away
>>
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Really shitty mock up, but does this look like it could pass as a Hellforged Deredo Dreadnought?

going for a "baby defiler" look
>>
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You versus the guy she tells you not to worry about
>>
>>54114073

That shit better be the same height, that's all I care about.
>>
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>>54114102
Shouldn't be too hard, deredo is a stumpy boy (except for the missile racks)
>>
>>54114113
The Hell-forged Deredo doesn't even need to be equipped with the missiles.
>>
>>54112133
>>54112122

>Geth decimator

love it
>>
>>54111203
people use big slates as aquarium decoration. Use an hamer to make small pieces
>>
>>54114073
maybe
>>
>>54114073
>I'LL KIDNAP A THOUSAND CHILDREN BEFORE I LET THIS COMPANY DIE
>>
>>54114201
FUCK HAHAHAHA
>>
>>54113838

>tfw payday was Friday
>tfw my paycheck had 20 hours of OT plus a bonus worth 1.5x my normal paycheck
It was a good day for my local Games Workshop
>>
Maybe you guys can help, I plan on splitting a tac squad in half, one to sit on a objective the other to push with special weapons. Do I do las plas marines or melta marines with heavy bolters on the razor back
>>
>>54114334

RB: Assault Cannon, Lascannon, or Multi-Melta

Forward squad: Plasma gun or meltagun, combi-plasma, combi-flamer, or combi-melta, multi-melta or grav-cannon
Rear squad: Lascannon or nothing
>>
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So these Sector Imperialis bases were so cheap for a reason, the sculpts are really shallow and not terribly detailed. I'm not looking forward to painting another 45.

Does anyone have the Mechanicus bases for comparison's sake?
>>
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>>54110024
Quick question:

Can you pose resin figures with boiling water?
What about hard plastic?
>>
>>54114888

You can with resin. You can't with plastic. Easy way to change leg poses with resin provided the bends and twists aren't too extreme.
>>
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So yeah here the finished Necromancer
>>
>>54114436
Mold
Lines
:)

Also maybe lightning is making washed areas super shiny but you can tone it down by glazing on some primary/light color (or matt varnish).
>>
>>54114436
I like it a lot, shame about the moldlinrs though
>>
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I ended up just using a head from the Blood Angels kit.

No clue how to paint dragon scales that aren't green or purple so this is difficult. Besides buying metallic paints of different colours, is there a way to get metallic sheen or flakes into normal paint? Was thinking of mixing some bright silver but I have no clue here.
>>
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>>54115257
Fuck I forgot to resize.

Also made a Librarian to add to the unit. Doing him as a Celestial Lion but besides finding some Lion pelt I had no clue how to define him as his chapter.
>>
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>>54115282
If you feel very confident in your skills, you could try to add some filigree to the armor like pic related.
>>
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Newbie here, starting with Iton Warriors

How am i doing so far?
>>
>>54110162
The GW examples seem to use scarlet / orange and the spot colour and I think that works well.
>>
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Pretty standart stuff i did here but this is the first full squad i could finish between my depression and family problems
sorry for blogging so im kinda proud right now

what do you all think of these?
>>
Does anyone find airbrushing resin extremely difficult? it feels like the paint starts pooling instantly and it looks messy and thick even when the plastic parts of the same models look great.
>>
>>54114436
painting is really nice

also how did you get the red so shiny?
>>
>>54115698
I really dig the stick and tube. The flames are nice too.
>>
>>54114073
Regardless of anything else, you have the scale WAY off. The Contemptor body is much, much smaller than that compared to the Dunecrawler legs/gun
>>
>>54115628
How newbie are you? Those hazard stripes are not bad at all.
>>
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>>54116055
Literally second attempt, never picked a brush up before

Pic is my first attempt
>>
>>54116137

Looks pretty good man but you need done Argentina on tree smaller details: symbol on the bolter, skull on top of top horns, the mouthpiece of the helmet and the eyes should all stand out from the solid background colors
>>
>>54116302
Attention not Argentina... sorry
>>
So I have 3 Blood Slaughterers that I want to add to my Iron warriors. Should I Paint them red or keep them in Iron warriors livery?
>>
>>54116309
Lmao, cheers mate
>>
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Do you fa/tg/uys think this head will work for an Intercessor sergeant?
>>
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WIP Chaplain. Just need to clean up a bit, fix the purity seals and paint the base.
>>
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>>54116418
Good work mate but I would put additional shadows along pic related lines. Either by a black wash or by a finned down black.

Otherwise the details get "washed down" ...sorry english is not my native tongue
>>
>>54115745
This is why you wash and prime your models, Anon; if you paint onto primer, it doesn't matter what the material underneath is.
>>
>>54116418
You know your color scheme is non codex for chaplains, right?
>>
>>54116412
I don't see any issue with using older helmets, just fluff it as a chapter relic or something
>>
>>54114201
DAT DANK MONSTERS INC REFERENCE
>>
>>54114272
> works on hours
Pleb
>>
>>54116456
It was washed and primed, the resin parts just look like shit.
>>
>>54115745
> already bought an airbrush for le 3lt3 paint skills
> doesn't know to wash or prime models first
I hate people like you. Fuck getting a solid grasp of the basic skills, the interwebs says this way faster and better!
>>
>>54116507
>he can't afford an airbrush
embarassing, how old are you dude?
>>
>>54116494
I don't know what you did, but when I primed a plastic / fw resin model the primed parts look the same. Maybe you did not wash the resin parts enough (I usually go for atleast 2 soaking & brush sessions with soapy water).
>>
>>54116481

My dudes are a BA primaris successor who were raised from a dead BA successor - as a result, they hold 'relics' of the old chapter in high regard. This includes BA helms and other bits.

Does it work aesthetically though?
>>
>>54116570
I think it's just the rounded edges, resin tends to look a lot less sharp than plastic, and the flat areas aren't as smooth.
>>
>>54116507
where did it say that?
>>
>>54116600
meant >>54116546
>>
>>54116598
>I think it's just the rounded edges, resin tends to look a lot less sharp than plastic
Where did you buy your models?
Resin should be able to hold much finer detail than plastic.
So if the resin models you got are worse quality than the plastics, chances are the master sculpts were just bad.
>>
>>54116471

Yes, I'm aware. It's a custom chapter.
>>
>>54116604
I'm just responding to baseless sperging with baseless insults.

>>54116615
From FW, it's a leman russ and yea, the mold is probably past its prime or something.
Most of my inf looks nice but none of the resin i have has a sharp edge or surface as smooth as plastic.
>>
>>54114938
Looks great. What's it for?
>>
>>54116931
My Kings of War Necromancer.

Which means the first 1000 points are nearly finished to paint.
>>
So how important really is basing? I've got that earth stuff from the painting starter pack, but I kinda like the black base look.
>>
>>54116982
Extremely. Always base your minis. 99% of other people who actually paint do, and to not will make them look incomplete
>>
So I've got a squad of tac marines kicking about, and I'm getting Dark Imperium soon. I play Blood Angels already and I'm not sure about using the Chadmarines for them.

Toying with the idea of doing them as a lesser known chapter to do paint something new. Any suggestions?
>>
>Spent 2 hours last night scraping shitty GW flock snow from my old model's bases
>Carpet by my desk is covered in white specks
>Fingers are still numb
>>
>>54110568
What minis are these anon? I like them
>>
>>54116982
You will be amazed at the difference it makes and how easy it can be.
>>
>>54115770
Blood for the blood god
>>
>>54117304
He's literally said in his post.
>>
>>54114334
>all those unpainted marines
>all those unpainted tanks
>box of sprues in the background
>that backlog
You have my sympathies, anon.
>>
>>54117367
Waiting on my air brush before I start painting again. It's suffering.
>>
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>>54117089
>>54117325
Okay. If ive got this earth stuff that paints on like normal paint but when dry shrinks to make cracks should I do it before or after the mini is glued to the base? If I do before I can see gluing become a nightmare, but if I do after then I run the risk of skreeing up their legs.
>>
>>54117472
Man fuck phone posting
>>
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How is my Boy?
>>
>>54117472
So it after. If it gets on the legs all well your models look dirty. You could always be super anal and try and not get it on there though.
>>
>>54117562
Not enough color. Needs one of the ork clan colors unless he is the merc one deth skullz or something
>>
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>>54117562
I'd pref a lighter green but he is just a boy so assembly line wise he's perfect

This too >>54117572
>>
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>>54114385
Don't even think about buying the large basing kit or the objective markers. They're utter shit, made in China and not the UK. Anyway, I'm using the 32mm bases for random stuff like my wip Fallen here.
>>
>>54117472
One of your easiest courses of action is to make an outline where you intend for the model to stand on the base, do the basing with the model not on it, but putting minimal/no basing where the foot print outlines should be.

That or pin it.
>>
>>54117610
Pinning?

Sorry for being such a mouthbreather. I appreciate all the help.
>>
>>54117572
The gun is red and the shirt is red, How do I add more red without making it too much red?
I feel like making the shoulder pad red would just clash with the red shirt, and a red and white checkered pattern feels like it would look silly considering I don't have any white elsewhere on the model.
What do?
>>
>>54117705
I'd add some sort of symbol to his shoulder pad. I think what they're looking for is more variation than color.

Maybe do some white somewhere?
>>
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This is one of my blood letters WIP, my first non vehicle too
>>
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I am starting to make a mechanicum warband. I haven't decided on colors yet, possibly darker blue or dessert(?) beige.

I got the sector imperialis bases, any suggestions on how to color them?
GW did grey metal and brown stone on some and red metal and grey stone on others...

I'm asking because I get the feeling you can fuck this up by not choosing the proper contrasting colors.
>>
>>54117583
Lovely
>>
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Okay so I know it's not 40k, but I'm really struggling on what colour scheme I should paint a Male Elf Fighter I'm about to start work on. He's part of Nolzur's series and I've just finished a Gnoll I'm really proud of but now I'm stuck with how he should be coloured.

I've already thrown out a red-gold scheme because my recent sorcerer is that, and purple-blue because it really didn't gel for me, and I'm trying to not use green because I want to stray away from conventional elf colours.

Pic related, it's the model I'm talking about.
>>
>>54117635
Do it on an empty base and glue the mini on after
Way easier than fucking around trying to paint round feet etc, it never works
>>
>>54117749
perhaps go for autumn tones? So warm browns, yellows, orange, that sort of thing.
>>
>>54117745
>dessert(?) beige.

One s, unless...
>>
Has anyone used the 25mm to 32mm base converters? Which did you have good/bad experiences with?
>>
>>54117799
Yeah I don't mind that idea actually, cheers. Might try and orange and yellow vertical stripe pattern on his pants as well, but the figure is fuckin' tiny, even by miniature standards so it'll be a challenge.

Thanks for the advice though, appreciate it.
>>
>>54117850
happy to help, do let the thread know how it turns out, painted models are always cool to see.
>>
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>>54117880
Yeah I will post when it's done, probably tomorrow after I'm done with my other stuff since it's my day off.
In the mean time here's a picture of the big boss Gnoll I finished tonight before I go to bed. I'm really glad how this has turned out, even though it looks horrendous in pictures. I do need better lighting for my pictures.
>>
>>54117749
/wipg/ is not just for 40k, it's just the most popular thing.

In more actual answer- that cloak looks pretty heavy. Consider a Winter scheme? Whites, grays, blues. Maybe some brown?
>>
>>54111393
really great. the "stinger" could use a bit of depth though. you could put some lowlights into the gold as well. it's a bit flat. overall it's top quality though.
>>
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Still have highlights and a bit of corrections on the knee and cloak to do, but this guy is getting there, finally.
>>
>>54118051
The body looks good but what happened to his face? Is that just how the model is supposed to look or what?
>>
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Base guy here

Just finished my first beakie marine, and I'm ready to move on to my first basing. Wish me luck!

>>54118157
Looks sweet. What faction is he supposed to be for though? I didn't think there was a black and neon blue group outside necrons.
>>
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>>54118250
Pt. 2
>>
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>>54118250
>>54118265
Pt. 3
>>
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>>54118250
>>54118265
>>54118276
Pt. 4
>>
>>54118250
one thing you gotta learn is dealing with all those mold lines. Especially the leg and backpack one. can't do anything about it now obviously, but it makes models look much better under inspection.
>>
>>54118293
I think he has other things to worry about before mold lines. I mean holy shit...
>>
>>54118293
Just use some snips to carefully take them off?
>>
>Finished
Haha, no.

-Scrape your mold lines.
-Drill your barrels.
-Thin your paints.
-Add highlights.

Once you've done that you can move on to basing.
>>
>>54118315
Try scraping them off with the edge of a hobby knife. That's what I do.
>>
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>>54118250
>beakie
>torso and right shoulder pad aren't corvus
>>
>>54118327
Whoops, meant to reply to >>54118250
>>
>>54118315
nah bruh, gotta use a filer or a hobby knife to scrape away at them.
>>54118314
well, one step at a time, everyone starts somewhere! next step would probably be brush control so that the paint doesn't bleed into other areas.
>>
>>54118347
>Autism
>>
>>54118360
>having a sense for quality control and accuracy is autism
>>
>>54115282
sometimes the shoulder pads have constellations on them from what I've read
>>
>>54118377
Little bit
criticizing someone new to the hobby over their choice of shoulders for a tiny plastic toy set in a fictional reality and raising the flag of inaccuracy is on the autistic end of things to criticize
>>
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>>54118250
He's a Dark Apostle for a custom warband, splintered off from Iron Warriors and not in the real-space timeline for very long, hence relatively uncorrupted. The black is actually dark steel (Vallejo Steel, specifically), but the metallic medium doesn't show up great. Unfortunately, I think I made it look a little more Black Legion than anything else.

And the rest of my guys are purple.
>>
Don't eat chicken in between painting sessions, because now I need to find something to paint Frank's Red Hot orange.
>>
>>54118377
yea, it is, especially since you see plenty of mixmatched sets in the lore.
>>
>>54118293
>>54118314
>>54118327
>>54118347
We'll shit I didn't know it was that bad!

Really though, I appreciate the help.
So: get ride of mold lines, use washes, don't paint too heavily, go easy on the glue, be more careful with tiny details, get hobbit drills for the guns, and switch the shoulder pads even though all the pictures have it on the left.
Anything else I can improve?
>>
>>54118419
Well I was joking, but okay, I'll just criticize him on all the other things he did wrong, like mold lines and brush control
>>
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I think the build is done. Now to wait for it to dry so I can scrape and sand
>>
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>>54118486
>>
>>54118458
You don't actually have to worry about the mismatching bits thing, it's not that big of a deal, I've got plenty of marines with varying armor pieces
>>
>>54118458
The shoulder pad is ok, anon is just being autistic.
Particular marks of armour, shoulder pads, helmets and weapons make sense only if you're trying to recreate a particular army in a particular setting and time period. If you're painting it for normal battles in Wh40k it's perfectly ok, since it's in the lore that older and newer marks get mixed together since they're hard to produce and replace
>>
>>54118486
>>54118497
CCON Heldrake?

pretty cool, what is it supposed to be?
>>
>>54118486
Nice, what did you use for the cables and tubes?
>>
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>>54118507
>mfw I try to make a joke and everyone takes it seriously and starts calling me autistic
>>
>>54118458
Leave the shoulder pads, someone's having issues telling right from left.

But the rest, yeah. Maybe not worry about washes and highlights really yet, but then again, just adding a slightly diluted wash all over is a very easy way to make shit look better. And deal with the nubs where the sprue was attached while you take care of the mold lines.
>>
>>54118593
Don't worry I'm just kidding
>>
>>54118486
What's that central plastic plate on it? I can ID a lot of the rest but I'm not sure on that part.
>>
Is there somewhere I can buy little skulls and oaths of moment as decoration? Not finding them on the GW/FW website.
>>
>>54118657
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Pack-of-Skulls
>>
>>54118657
http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=230
>>
>>54116597
Looks great. Every BA primaris army I've seen is using BA bits.
>>
>>54118657
Some GW kits have extra skulls taking up free space on the sprue. I never bought any extra skulls and I have a little tacklebox's section full of 'em.
>>
>>54118657
http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/scenery-accessories/350-100x-resin-skulls-sack-skulls.html
>>
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r8 my WIP.

Still lots of small stuff to do like all the red lenses and shit like that.
I'm really happy with this kit.
>>
>>54111166
Thats awesome. Did you make or buy the stalagmites/crystals/mushrooms?
>>
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Just for the sake of comparison, here's one of the ultramarines from the painting starter pack, which I used a wash with. Is there anything better about this one?
>>
>>54118688
Awesome, thank you!

Regarding the oath of moment, is there some other key word I should be using? Typing in "warhammer oath of moment" just gives me the novel.
>>
>>54118508
It will be a Decimator. I can pull the claws out so eventually I'll make some guns for the arms

>>54118520
Cables are just random things I found laying around. I know some are from the Knight kit.

>>54118619
That is from the Soul Grinder kit
>>
>>54118875
>spending all that money for GW Skulls^tm
>>
>>54118875
https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-US/Purity-Seals
>>
>>54118841

the weathering looks fantastic
>>
>>54118918
Thank you kindly.

>>54118912
I'd go for the recasters if they had faster shipping.
>>
>>54118948
Just buy from the other links, they are the same shit
>>
>>54118841

The Brotherhood of Nod is in trouble now!
>>
>>54118657
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.de/2012/07/how-and-why-you-should-make-purity.html
>>
I know this is unlikely but does anyone have one or two spare Leman Russ turrets in their bits boxes. The old ones preferably.

Or if anyone knows where to get two?
>>
>>54119014
at least the Stormhawk doesn't look that much like an Orca compared to the StormTalon
>>
>>54118841
OH, and if anyone has a guide to Space Marine Flyer markings, it'd be a big help, since I plan on fleshing out a squad of these guys.
I know red stripes and panels denote squad leaders, but that's about it.
>>
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>>54110024
So i'm repainting my slann, and I want him to have white skin and a spaceblue/purple blended belly. I've never painted white flesh before and am afraid it will come out very flat. I've painted this bastard twice in green already and don't want to strip paint again. Any tips?

pic is most recent iteration of the slann.

bonus: how do you guys like the stargate behind him?
>>
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How did the NMM gold brocade on this banner turn out? I'm worried the vertical sides look bad. Rest of it turned out ok considering I'd never tried it before.
>>
>>54119280
starfield looks excellent mate

if you don't wanna strip the froge you could blend up through cream to white with a green undertone
>>
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Garran Branatar is coming Home! Altough there is still a lot do before he is done.
>>
Anybody got ideas for a Lias Issodon model that reflects his new rules?
Do we think FW is gonna make a legit one this time around?
>>
Dark Imperium Death Guard: prime white, black or gray?
>>
>>54119766
Really depends on what your intended end result is.

Dark = Black.
Bright = white.
"I want to start out looking like bare plastic" = Gray.
>>
>>54119793
>"I want to start out looking like bare plastic"
more like "I want my shit to look good in the end"
>>
>>54119556
I had to google who that is and I even read the rules update, but I assume being armed with 'Malice' is not meant to be as funny as it seems to me.

Anyway, aside from the omnious weapon, which I assume is a bolter of some sort he's just a guy with bolt pistol and a sword.
There are a lot of different options to chose from.

Guess the deciding factor would be Malice, whatever that is, but I don't feel like reading through the books again now.
>>
>>54119910
t. Never tried to paint yellow over any other colour.
>>
>>54119910
Why's that?
>>
>>54119949
Malice used to be a combi-bolter type thing, but since he never got a model, it could be anything now.
Don't know if the Raptorclaw is just the name of the old generic powersword he had, or if it's something new and interesting.

I imagine him wearing a camo cloak so, maybe one of those Ravenguard scouts from HH would be a good place to start kitbashing.
>>
>>54119990
FUCK painting yellow over black or white. White is kinda ok, but having a black base for that shit.

>>54119991
Here's the rundown:
Black is great for beginners. If you fuck up and can't get to all the nooks and crannies, the primer is gonna look like dark shadow.
White is good for brighter paint schemes.
The downside of either is that you have to build up to a lot of colors with either.
Grey primer allows you to get to the color you want with fewer coats and fewer intermediary colors.
TLDR: Grey is good because it isn't white or black.
>>
>>54120057
Well I'm a total beginners, so perhaps Black is the way to go.
>>
>>54118841
>When you fly so low you get blood splatters
>>
>>54120352
>flying tyranids
>>
>>54120057
I can't fathom why people have problems with white or very light grey primer, I don't see how people find it harder to get to a colour with white than with grey, particularly yellow.
>>
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Paint stripping a land speeder. Looks like it was primed black, then white, then painted blue.
>>
>>54119487
I'm sure that will turn out amazing, keep it up
>>
Anyone work on a Fire Raptor?

How was it to assemble?
>>
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My two WIP projects.

a test model for my Primaris Deathwatch squad ( in this case a Lamenter), and slightly converted Plague Drone.
>>
>>54120714
Annoying; be prepared for lots of hot water bending of parts.
>>
>>54120845
>undrilled barrel
>>
>>54120845
I wonder, how large are those drones compared to, say, a land speeder? I play traitor marines using vanilla SM rules (due to them being a quite recently fallen chapter) and been thinking of making some blight drone style things using land speeder rules. Either use those sprayers as a pair of heavy flamers or convert them into big machine guns (heavy bolters).
>>
>>54120962
Why not just play traitor marines as traitor marines?
>>
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First time doing browns and cloaks, does it look okay /tg/ ? Is it tabletop quality?
>>
>>54116492
OT is measured in hours dude no matter what your setup is. Unless you are really high up I guess.
>>
>>54120485
Is there supposed to be some sort of upside to that? Looks kinda annoying to have to do extra.
>>
>>54121751
If you're salaried then you don't get OT so sometimes it's better to keep hourly pay so you actually get reimbursed for your extra work.
>>
>>54121412
Because they're suppose to be a newly fallen chapter, not a 30k era legion warband. And because GW said in WD303 that Codex: SM is totes legit for newly fallen chapters (using Red Corsairs as an example). And by now I got so much stuff from Codex: SM that going to Codex: CSM would invalidate a bunch of units or tops make them poor proxies.
>>
>>54121728
You won't win Golden Demon but it looks really good to me. I especially like the flames on his gun!
>>
>>54121913
any tips on what I can improve with the model?
>>
>>54121974
thin yo paints
>>
>>54118841
maybe drill those assault cannon barrels,
but other than that it looks pretty frickin sweet
>>
>>54122179
I considered it before I started painting, decided against it, because it's more minor than something like a bolter. I might just wash that face with a few coats of Nuln Oil to give the impression of depth there.
>>
Is it alright to get some aos models and convert them to carry 40k guns while also having 30k dudes and 40k dudes, demon engines, tanks?
Yeah, chaos stuff.
>>
>>54121974
need to make those highlights thinner and less messy, i like it outside of that
>>
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Any quick way to get decent results on highlighting the blacks of my gauss flayers?
Was thinking I'd highlight just the very tops of their guns at the most light catching areas, so that it won't take days and will cut down on mistakes I'll have to fix.
>>
>>54122136
they thin as they gonna be without being a wash
>>54122738
which highlights? on the cuffs and coat?
>>
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Groin Kikka, here. A few more Brutes for da waaagh!
>>
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>>54116982
>I kinda like the black base look.

Me too, I thought I was just a freak.

I've always wanted to try to do a "fancy" basic black base. The plan was to go for some kind of reflective marble or linoleum look like pic related (pardon the Taylor Swift, it was the first image that had the effect I wanted when I googled "reflective black floor"), and that it would otherwise be devoid of detail. Like a showroom floor or something.

I think it could look really nice. And it'd have the bonus of never mismatching with whatever terrain you happen to be playing on (my autism goes off when you made snow bases and you're playing on desert terrain, but for some reason "generic" bases like that would be OK with me).

Never got around to it.
>>
>>54119290
You can try deepening the shading, maybe with a dark green glaze. Rest is a-ok (pure whites should pop up more with darker contrast too).
>>
>>54118486
15/10
I assume its a titan for chaos use?
>>
>>54120485
Is the front antenna on Land Speeders just incapable of not breaking off?
>>
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Painted up my first Raptors test marine.
>>
>>54123378
Holy shit that's fab.
Maybe put some little bits of dead grass or something on the base? idk
Great stuff
>>
>>54114385
just bought the mechanicus bases. These have more depth than the other bases. But the sharpness of detail really isn't like the regular plastic used for miniatures. but hey, it are many bases for a good price.
>>
>>54123378
I second this: >>54123392, needs some yellow grass on that base.
But other than that, it looks fucking awesome.
>>
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>>54123378
Gonna add green grass to the base later for maximum tacticool blending with the environment.
>>
>>54122946
Yeah, those look pretty sloppy. It's fine to keep highlight paint a little thicker than normal coats
>>
>>54123764
I make my highlight colors ultra thin, but maybe I just need a steadier hand?
>>
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>>54123424
My dick is rock hard right now. Great work anon.
>>
>>54123378
>>54123424
Ok, I'm wasn't a big fan of the Primaris, but painted like this, they look absolutely amazing.

10/10 would get inflitrated by
>>
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Currently working on my rough riders mounts. 20 points to people who know where these came from.
>>
>>54124015
australia
>>
>>54124015
Australia
>>
>>54124015
New Zealand
>>
>>54111612
I love the skin tones, especially on cultist.
>>
>>54117304
Rackham was a French miniatures company that made VERY finely detailed (for the time) HARD pewter miniatures, back circa 2008-ish era. Then they decided to stop and make pre-painted plastics instead... went out of business pretty quickly after that.

Confrontation was their Fantasy game.
>>
>>54120845

check pattern on the chadmarine looks real nice anon
>>
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Working on my first leman russ, sorry for img size

Planned to use a kill team/low point mech guard during 7th ed, guess i will merge my 500 pts guarda with some vet marines for fluffiness
>>
>>54124203
Please put the gun mantlet on.
>>
>>54124228
Not sure a gun manlet would fit a guard army. I mean, I know marines are small but they aren't small enough to be a hood ornament.
>>
>>54124228
Unfortunately i cannot, i magnetized the kit and don't know how to put it on
>>
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>>54123096
>Never got around to it
>>
>>54123096
Base man here
I think just priming the bases makes then look really nice. They almost look like action figures, which is what they _should_ look like, to me at least.
>>
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terrible pic of my current project, almost done, just need to work on the bolter, come up with a chapter badge and decide on basing him and the rest of the army.
Ignore the fact he's on the wrong sized base it's temporary
>>
anyone got any tips or advice on how to cover up a bit of damage from a clipping mistake? It's on a unit's shoulder so my plan right now is just to go looking through pictures of wardamaged armor and trying to replicate it when painting.
>>
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How would i go about drybrushing a blueish black? My Iron Hands characters are edge highlighted with dark reaper and thunderhawk blue. What colors should i use to drybrush my average tac marines? Edge highlighting every model like this is burning me out on the hobby.
>>
>>54119290

The NMM colors are fine, but you need to make the brush strokes sharper and thinner.
>>
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>>54123344
Decimator proxy. Don't like the Forgeworld model.
>>
Out of curiosity, is /wip/ only for models actively being worked on, or can I get some feedback on a potential paint scheme? I've never posted in this general before.
>>
>>54124891
How bad is the damage? Got a pic?
>>
>>54118486

Look at that rubbery recast detail.
>>
>>54125129
Go for it.
>>
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>>54125135
>Got a pic?
not a decent one, but here. I clipped a little bit off the shoulder while distracted. it's from a skitarii ranger so maybe I could get away with it be damage to a pauldron type piece.
I'm about to leave to grab some paint wells and food, but any insight on how to cover up the mistake would be much appropriated.
>>
>>54125129
Newfags get out, reeeee, something about cheetahs or churches.
>>
>>54125129
>/wip/ only for models actively being worked on
Unrelated, but this triggers the accountant in me.
>>
>>54125337

Trust me, you don't want to be the ones auditing these shitty generals.
>>
>>54125129
Color schemes are fine. We actually had a bunch of primaris templates posted a week ago.
>>
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Just finished my Gaunt Summoner ready for a AoS skirmish campaign.
>>
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>>54125310
Do you not have any extra pauldrons like they give you in the SM packs?

Alternatively you could undercoat black and paint it normally, then use sandpaper or something it to rub off the colors in layers, similar to on the backpack vent of pic related.
>>
>>54125383
>posting finished minis in /work in progress/
>>
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>>54125293
I like the base I got for them, the metal legs and arms and head (I have a thing for symmetry over the y-axis for whatever reason). But it felt a bit drab, but I wasn't sure where to add color to add a bit of character without creating too sharp of a contrast, or looking tacky or out of place. So this is eventually what I've settled on so far (sergeant stripe, and face mask indicating veteran), which brings me to my current conundrum: I was thinking maybe I could spread the color around by coloring facemask according to role (maybe blue like the Blood Angels for devastators, yellow for fast attack, etc.), but once again, without it sticking out and looking tacky. I'll be the first to admit I'm not the best with colors, but I think, for example, yellow for fast attack would stand out against the rest of the scheme, and not in a good way.
>>
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Some of my Knights of the Blazing Sun, still need a little clean up
>>
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>>54125391
That's a shitty photo, here's a better one
>>
>>54125400
you can do that
>>
>>54125400
More of the WIP process for my entire Tzeentch project is here http://www.beastsofwar.com/groups/painting/forum/topic/what-are-you-painting-now-q2-2017-waypn/?topic_page=18#post-205797

But is started looking like this after zenithal priming and and initial base colours.
>>
>>54125444
I was just meming, friendo.
>>
>>54125467
And it followed a process near similar to my Karic Acolytes for the metals etc
>>
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>>54125484
Final shot of the Acolytes.
>>
>>54125506
>Purple People Eaters
>>
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How do I get better at putting the arms on my Orks. I like to do sub assemblies where I put the arm with the gun on last so I can paint the chest more easily, but I find it difficult to line up the arms correctly, as you can probably tell. Should I use poster putty, or is there a better way?
>>
>>54125400
what's the point of these threads if people don't post the completed models after showing us daily updates?
>>
I live in upside down land and this transfer sheet doesn't appear on the GW Au website, anyone know if I can buy it from the GW UK webstore and have it sent to my local store or something?

It's way better than the Dark Imperium BA transfers, and there are way more of them, *and* I'm trying to be good and actually mark all my marines with company, squad and chapter markings this time around.
I just want GW to take my dollaridoos and give me a decent product.
>>
>>54125578
You could glue the gun handle to the handle-arm, then the handle-arm to the body. Then, glue the stock-arm to the stock of the gun and the body at the same time.
>>
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>>54125752
That's a pretty good idea, however, the gun is actually part of the arm.
>>
>>54125859
Well then skip part 1 and glue that arm to the body, then glue the stock-arm to the gun and body simultaneously. Dun.
>>
>>54125933
But then I won't be able to paint the chest underneath as easily. That's why I glued the other arm on first then painted the body and the gun arm separately and glued on the gun arm last.
>>
>>54125391
>>54125432
thanks. there might be a spare arm I can use but most likely I'll try to just work with it somehow. I like the idea of painting it and then sanding over it to give it a rough look though.
>>
>really busy last week getting ready for the fourth at work
>haven't painted since a week ago today
>find my celestra grey pot
>too late in the day to run to the store and replace
>can't get to the store and replace it during the week because the traffic is horrible in Portland at 4:30
Fuck
>>
>>54126137
Fuck my keyboard
My celestra grey pot was left open.
>>
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Alright lads, give it to me straight.

I'm new to the hobby- just finished priming my first ever set of minis yesterday. This is the color scheme I've been working on in Photoshop for my Dark Eldar and I'm curious how well it would translate into the physical miniatures. What paints would I even need to pull it off? They're primed in black.
>>
>>54125977
Oh I assumed everyone painted first before gluing. If you do that it's a lot easier to paint everything.
>>
>>54126424

Forgot to say, the white sections are bone.
>>
>>54126424
I'd say it looks pretty good. This link may be a cool idea on how to do your paint scheme, obviously with your colours. Just an idea.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xBqQjHVUlk
>>
>>54118841
What colors did you use for your main base color and highlights? I wanna do a raptor company and that looks tight.
>>
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Rate my wip Archon
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>>54126609
Main color is Deathworld Forest. Main highlights are Elysian Green, extreme highlights are Ogryn Camo.

Pic is the WIP base.
>>
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Another day, another battle brother to join the chapter
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I've just realised GW sell Averland yellow in a tin.

Should I use it like an undercoat or should I still undercoat them black then use the AY lightly on top? This is for space marines by the way.
>>
>>54116982
It puts your miniatures into context.
It can make a huge impact to storytelling, if you want to use it that way.
Think of how an ork army would look that uses a lot of shirtless bodies, tracked vehicles etc on blank bases vs desert bases. Kind of tells you a little story about why the guys are dressed the way they are and why the Trukks don't just use tires.

Or Tyranids on lush jungle bases vs empty dead earth with the occasional biomass puddle here and there.

But ultimately it's your choice.
Completely blank bases kind of look unfinished imo though.
>>
>>54126866
I wouldn't undercoat yellow with black. That will make it harder to get the yellow right. The GW sprays can be used like undercoats just fine so you shouldn't have any problem just undercoating with AY
>>
>>54125578
Just glue the gun arm on, or both arms on, before painting. They're boyz, you've got fifty more to go.
>>
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Working on my exalted sorcerers, any suggestions if I want to paint the beetle arms a light grey? I'm not big on color theory but I want them to be visually distinct.
>>
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Brain on legs
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>>54126424
I feel like the earth tone tabard looks super out of place and kinda screws with the scheme unless you're pulling that color in somewhere else across the unit. Otherwise cool
>>
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Come on boyz! Boss Frizzle is gonna find us a scrap!
>>
>>54127620
>Brain on legs

"What's it thinking, colonel?"
"It's afraid... it's afraid!"
>>
>>54125614
>I live in upside down land and this transfer sheet doesn't appear on the GW Au website, anyone know if I can buy it from the GW UK webstore and have it sent to my local store or something?

Emperor's Teeth! I haven't seen anything that glorious for Blood Angels since they GW published our first codex in 1996! This must be something new and special...

>I'm trying to be good and actually mark all my marines with company, squad and chapter markings this time around.

A man after my own heart!
>>
>>54124203
Looks legit anon
>>
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Hey guys, I was watching a HH batrep when I saw that a player modeled his rhinos with the hunter/stalker front armor panel like pic related. Unfortunately, ebay has none of that particular bit on sale. Do you guys have any suggestions on how I could mod the front of a rhino to look similar to this?
>>
>>54124038
>>54124043
>>54124060
Never change, /tg/.
>>
>>54127696
Proppa fuckin' orky. Just needs some dakka.
>>
>>54127696
Holy fuck that's great
>>
>>54126153
That's not a keyboard issue
>>
>>54127847

Just get the normal rhino and fill one of the windows in and leave the window guard off.
>>
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About 95% done Weeping Legion plague marine. Any advice/criticism on improvements on color? I'm not sure if I should do another color for the tentacles and flesh cords or not.
>>
Opinion on this color scheme Ive had floating around for a while and intend to use for my Primaris chapter. Wanted something not too crazy but I fear it may be a bit too bland.
>>
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>>54128993
forgot to post picture I'm pants-on-head retarded
>>
>>54128757
My only critique is that maybe pick a different colour for the pistol.
>>
>>54129002
eyes could be a different color, would be too monochrome elsewise.
>>
>>54129186
I can do that I reckon! I was trying to match the one on the little packet. Just some metallic paints and/or rust for the gun?
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Working with Greenstuff for the first time and wanted to make a ribbon to go on my banner like this (the cut out lines are for behind the banner.) How do I use green stuff in a way to make this happen?
>>
>>54127847
If you are making a BA army then you will get a Baal Predator at some point. That's the front panel used for the tank. I would take that and maybe try and make a mold of it so you can just make green stuff copies.
>>
>>54129002
>>54129232
What this anon said. Could play with yellow.
>>
>>54127847
blood angels baal predator kit
>>
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Finishing up my ork trukk after all these years. Don't know why I avoided working on it all this time, but it's almost done now, just gotta finish detailing the crew. Then I can move on to the rest of my army and get them tabletop ready.
>>
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>>54127572
>>
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>>54127660

It was supposed to be more of a tan color, like it's made out of skin.

But now that I look at it I'm not sure it's even skin.

Does this look better?
>>
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Any tips to avoid "grainy" looking primer?

And

Dumb rules question: why do some units have ballistics skills when they don't have ranged attacks?

Example: kairos Fateweaver only has a melee weapon, but a 3+ ballistics skill. Why?
>>
>>54130144
operating stationary guns, or in this case psyker powers that shoot.
>>
>>54130144

You never know when something like new equipment or psychic powers come out and use the shooting rules
>>
How does everyone feel about the GW texture paints? I picked up a bottle of the Astrogranite to try with my necrons. It seems solid after a wash and highlights but I'm not sure how many bases I can get done out of one of the 24ml containers.
>>
>>54122973

Looks pretty great anon! My only suggestion would be to do something additional to the weapons. Right now I think it looks too flat with just the bland silver.

What about doing a much darker metal as a base, and then applying the silver highlights in brush strokes away from the blades edges to makes it look much more savage and brutish.

Or just some sort of wash to bring out the recesses and details?
>>
>>54130352
Because I'm a lazy fuck I based my DAngles with Armageddon Dust when I decided to strip and repaint them. Works fine. And you can get a surprising amount of bases out of a pot.
>>
>>54129842
Easiest way would be to mix up enough GS to make the whole thing, then lay it out flat on a smooth surface that you either got really wet or a bit oily so you can remove the GS once you got it into ribbon shape.
Once flattened you shuold probably let it sit for 15-20 minutes cut the edges straight and carefully remove it from wherever you put it.
Then you can drape is as you want.

The trick is finding the sweet spot. If you try to do it too fast the GS is gonna be too soft to hold it's shape and stick to everything, making it hard to manipulate.
If you wait too long it may not want to stick to the banner anymore.

If you are confident in your sculpting abilities you could also just try to sculpt it right there in place. Would give you more control. You need something like a wire or some foil to work over though.

Another thing you may want to consider is just using really thin plastic card and using heat to bend it into shape before applying it to the banner.
You could also use thick metal foil to begin with. If you cut a tincan open and take a strip of metal and try to bend it the right way it could work as well. Just have to use some fine grit sandpaper on it before painting it.

You can also mix these methods. Sculpt the hanging portion on the back with GS, after doing the free hanging ends with plastic card or foil for example.

Hope that helps.
>>
>>54126633

Unassembled/10
>>
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>>54126633
>>
>>54130284
>>54130297

Are there any psyker powers that can shoot currently? None of tzeentch's psychic powers specifically state to use the BS, so... should I just not worry about it for now ? Thanks guys!
>>
>>54125467
What is the name of this model?
>>
>>54130436
Don't know the name but it's the sorcerer that comes with silver tower I think.
>>
>>54130436
>>54130452
>>54125383
>Gaunt Summoner
derp. Should have just followed the string of answers.
>>
>>54130352

vallejo texture paint is £10 for 200ml
>>
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So I just bought my first model from forgeworld, the great unclean one.

Any tips or tricks on painting this bad boy?
I heard they are a different kind of plastic?

Any information helps! I'm excited
>>
>>54130581
You have to lightly scrub the entire model in slightly warm soapy water to clean off a protective layer that does not let paint be applied easily. Some primers do the job a bit differently on FW resin, but I've never head of it being a real problem. When you build it, super glue works, but plastic glue does not. Also pin all the pieces since it's so big and glue only does a decent job
>>
>>54130634
Thank you! Question... Do I still need to scrub the model if im planning on spray priming it?

And what is "pinning it"?
>>
>>54130064
Holy shit, anon, thin your fucking paints.

And drop those old ass models.
>>
>>54127696
Nice. What's it built on?
>>
>>54130656
Check the op for the old ~2000 how to paint miniatures book by GW, the one with the blue cover. It has a really good basic introduction.

Pinning is adding a pin, i.e. a short piece of wire between two parts of a model to minimize mechanical stress on the glue bond.

And washing the models is always a good idea with metal and resin. Sometimes even with plastic if the models have collected dust over a while or you've handled them a lot because you converted something.
>>
>>54130709
No and no. Especially the latter part, I have both RT and 2nd ed era models I fully intend to put on the table, even in mixed units with newer models.

I'll thin my paints on guys that matter more, though.
>>
>>54130717
Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions, you're a huge help.
Really ignorant question about pinning...
Do put the wire through the plastic? Or?

What is the process?
>>
>>54130753
Best way to avoid hearing criticism of your work is to not post in the future
>>
>>54130759
Well as I said the book has a pretty comprehensive introduction to all hobby related stuff, including a fully illustrated guide to pinning with a few helpful tips along the way.

Abridged version:
Take a tiny dip of paint and press the parts together the way they are supposed to fit.
Now you have the place where you need to drill marked on both sides.
Drill a few mm deep on each side and then insert the wire. You glue the wire in with superglue so that it sticks out a bit and then you glue the other part of the mini while sliding the wire into the hole in that part.
Basically like pinning works with woodworking and the like.
>>
>>54130762
I didn't say don't criticize, I just dismissed it. Don't take it so personally. Though I'm not sure how "drop those old ass models" is even criticism, I don't want to get rid of minis I've had since my 2nd ed days.
>>
>>54130656
The level of release fluid on the model varies, i've tried to paint on unprimed, unwashed resin shell casings before and the paint literally dissolved.
Some pieces barely even need a wash though.
>>
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what base coat do you reckon is used on these models?

black or white?

I've never attempted to paint orange before.
>>
>>54130581
I would preshade with an airbrush an then paint him with washes.
>>
>>54130796

>I'll thin my paints on guys that matter more, though.
u wot?

if you've been in the hobby so long it's not unreasonable to expect you'd have more interest in having your models not look terrible.
>>
>>54130941
Can't go wrong with grey
>>
So I made the horrible mistake of using Reveal basic colour spray on 3 of my skitarii and the guy from who I bought it didn't tell me that it leaves this grainy surface that you have to sand it down, but because GW models are "tiny" sanding down is not an option. Any ides what might strip down that horrendous layer? (denaturated ethanol doesn't work on it, but nail polish remover does to certain degree)
>>
>>54131054
*Revell, fucking autocorrect
>>
>>54131054
Write them off and don't spend more money on cleaning 'solutions'. Revell basic color is an actual primer and you'll never get it off without damaging the models. Simply paint your dudes and be grateful you didn't spray your entire army.
>>
>>54126424

For the black armour: prime with chaos black, highlight with eshin grey.

For the Silver parts: Leadbelcher, wash with nuln oil, highlight with runefang steel

For the bone: Base with zandri dust, highlight with ushabti bone, find edge highlight with palid wych flesh.

For the pink trim: Emperors Children or Pink Horror, or both.
>>
>>54130122

No, I say use a tertiary colour for the loincloth, you could try doing it in a flesh colour so you get some pinks in there, it looks like flesh but also differs from the pink of the armour.

I would paint it in bugmans glow, wash with reikland fleshshade or carroburg crimson (if you want it to be more pink) then highlight with cadian fleshtone.
>>
>>54119280
The stargate looks great mate!
>>
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Working on my Sylvaneth ancient. Model is really amazing, but fuck those branches are annoying. They get stuck to everything and I'm 100% sure this guy will break at some point. Hands, head and torso are all magnetised for extra care.

Just got most of the basic colours in, sigh..
>>
how do you guys organize your paints?
i have different bottles with sizes like Vallejo and citadel, and they are just on my table next to my monitor, anyone got a good idea how to nicely manage them in a box or some sort?
>>
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>>54131870
Y-you primed it before right?
>>
>>54132512
looks like he primed it grey, hasnt got the shine that plastic has when its not spray at least i hope it is
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