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WIP - Work In Progress General

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Thread replies: 344
Thread images: 104

FAGgy edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>In the face of death, I shall have no remorse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_ZgyNoHtjw

>Previous Thread:
>>54110024
>>
People who understand colours, what colours are best to build up from a base of GW Incubi Darkness/P3 Coal Black?

It's a very dark turquoise colour.

I was thinking highlight up through blue-grey tones, to make a kind of green-blue (VMC Grey Blue, GW Thunderhawk Blue), or possibly greens (jade/malachite green colours).

Dark turquoise is a weird colour to have as a primer.
>>
>>54132821
>base of Incubi Darkness/ Coal Black
(great colors, btw. Coal Black is very versatile)
drybrush with Thunderhawk Blue, followed by an edge highlight of Russ Grey.
>>
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More of my WIP base for my Stormhawk.
Going to add a genestealer skull rested against the metal beam then call it finished.
>>
>>54132904
That sounds ideal, I'm going to use it on a starship model so with that as the base I'll do gold trim and silver gun barrels, and it should look stylish as hell.
>>
>>54132949
What wash(es) are you planning on using?
There's a lot that works with Coal Black (Nuln oil, Agrax Earthshade, Druchii Violet, Drakenhoff Nightshade, etc.)
>>
>>54132985
I was thinking a blue or black wash, I've tried Druchii over it on a test model and it looked really weird.

As I'm still a fairly poor painter I looked at some Duncan videos so was going for prime with Incubi, wash (probably Nuln) then drybrush before detailing (as most of the model is going to be that colour)
>>
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a swamp
>>
>>54133230
da fuck?
>>
>>54133230
>stupid weeb posting copy pasta for attention
>>
>>54133230
okay, Hentai Kamen guy... banana/kidney shaped swamp... you see it panty shaped... okay...
>>
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I started to paint up my nurgle horror, gonna make the claws more brown and the tounge abit brighter and maybe try having strands of goo hanging off it and its claws.
I'm not sure what I want to colour the tips of his tendrils though, should I go lighter or try a different colour shade to really make it stand out?
>>54132916
Looking good

>>54133125
Looks real peaceful, kinda reminds me of the spots I'd find when i used to explore the woods as a lad
>>
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Working on an npc for my dnd campaign, was trying out wet blending on the belly and was hoping for some C&C.

Any advice or tips, like advice on color for moving forward would be appreciated too. I'm experimenting a lot on this and a few other reaper minis and I'm willing to try new things.
>>
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I've been working on the idea of a custom battle standard bearer for empire, No idea of the optimal way to sit his 'lance' arm for now, but fairly happy with how the rest is coming along.

>>54133334
goo is always a good choice, why don't you have contrasting soft tendril/spiky bit colouring. I've done the same with a chaos spawn giving it's spikey arms a hardened carapace look while the soft ones had a lighter fleshy shade. went well!
>>
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Posting my WIP knights again, now with a better resolution!
>>
cardboard stairs
>>
>>54133784
Care to show us your spawn? I could always use the inspiration.
>>
What could I use as a statue for a urban 40k board apart from the classic marine statue? Looking for fountains as well
>>
>>54135825
Giant aquila? Reliquary full of skulls? Miniature bell of lost souls? Orphanarium?
>>
>>54135854
I was thinking like some 3d party statue that would look nice on a 40k board

Nice ideas though
>>
>>54135825
Take an Oscar and paint it
>>
>>54135890
generic statues will work, so will ornate columns, keep in mind that local government officials will put up statues of themselves or local heroes.
Just spruce things up with skulls and aquilas.
>>
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After a week of making all the colours nice and clean on these guys, I'm finally getting to the fun parts of griming and rusting them up. A lot is still unfinished, but I've gotten to the point where I'm happy to show them off.
>>
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so this is what ill be spending my week working on.
>>
>>54135976
These new dragon dildos really aren't doing it for me anymore.
>>
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So after all the great feedback from my beakie last thread I got to work on just a normal marine, who came with an assault harness for some reason. Don't ask why.

Anyway so even though I know this isn't the best work, I'd like to know how my paint control is going. Am I still slapping on too much? Are details getting covered up? I think I did well, but obviously that's coming from an amateur's eye. Anything else that I'm missing would be appreciated too.

And yes, I know I need to drill the barrel and stuff, but at the moment I'm not really concerned about that kind of thing. I'd like to know what basic mistakes I'm making before I move on to more "advanced" stuff like washed and highlighting and putting the pauldrons on the right shoulders.

Also, sorry for the disassembled-ness, I took the photo while rushing out the door. I can take better ones later.
>>
>>54135825
Put almost anything on a pedestal and psint it stone/metallic... Wander through a toy store's figurine aisle.

Dude on a horse. Dude with a flag. Dude standing at attention with gun.

Angels. Obelisks or pillars. Eagles. Lions. Bulls. Gryphons, dragons, sphinxes.

Cut the head off a larger-than-40k scale thingy, put it on a plinth and you have a bust.

Clock tower. Nymph in a fountain. Sundial. Propaganda video-screen.
>>
>>54136056
Paints a tiny bit thick, when you get down the decent consistancy its no problems to go over the bits where you might have accidently painted, like with the eye.
If your having trouble with shaky hands try rest your elbows on something or putting your wrists together when you try paint.

Keep it up!
>>
>>54136056

That's a mk v chest piece not a jump pack harness
>>
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>>54136056
Hey friend. You're definitely putting on the paint either too thick or in too many layers. Are you overpriming the model, or is the paint that's getting on too thick? I've attached a picture of a model that's primed with decent coverage without gooping up the details.

If you're not overpriming, how are you thinning down your paints? Water or medium? What consistency are you thinning it down to? I generally work mine down to the consistency of skim milk.

To be extremely general the idea behind thinning down your paints and applying them in two or three thin layers (waiting for them to dry between layers, always!) is that you achieve good coverage without obscuring the details. The dark blue has good coverage but is too thick. The metal parts of the boltgun don' t have enough coverage.
>>
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Does anyone know the dimensions of the Mastodon Carrier? I'm thinking about a 30k Word Bearers army, and I kinda want to make a giant rolling war-cathedral on two pairs of tracks to be a centrepiece. Rest of the army is Cultist blobs, summoning and Gal Vorbak dropping in everywhere, with a couple Vindicators and Dreads for heavy firepower.
>>
>>54136648
>the consistency of skim milk.

So...water?
>>
>>54136662
Shoebox sized.
>>
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>>54136671
Not quite. Specifically I use a 1:1 mixture of paint to medium, plus any additional moisture that soaks up through my wet palette. It flows together extremely well without being runny (because you still need to be able to control where your paint goes).
>>
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>>54133759
Heres an update
>>
>>54136169
Thanks, I forgot to go back over that. I generally think I've got a good hand, but when it comes to the eyes I always overdo it. A pass of blue usually fixes that though.
>>54136180
rip
>>54136648
When I prim the model (one coat) with undiluted black it usually comes out as more of a smokey color (I can snap a pic later if you want), so I don't think I'm overdoing it there.

However when it comes to watering down my paint I've been having troubles. It sounds like what you're supposed to do is get paint on the brush then dip it in water, but every time I do this (even barely getting any water on it at all) the consistency becomes extremely watery and will shrink on the model, which looks terrible. What I'm doing can't be right, but I can't think of another technique.

Also, the silver I used for the boltgun is the same as the color on his harness. The reason it's so dark is because I tried to be a little fancy and darken it by not putting as much on so more of the black primer would stand out and make it more of a gunmetal grey. With this in mind, is that still bad coverage or am I in the clear?

Thanks for all the help everyone, I really appreciate it!
>>
>>54136662
is that you again, Land Raider Church Anon?

>>54137195
looks nice to me
>>
>>54135176
Not 2 shabby. What did you do for the ovals; circle punch on both ends then cut out the middle?
>>
>>54137202
Are you spray priming or using gesso / Imperial Primer?

For thinning your paint you actually really want to use a palette so you can control how much water and paint you're mixing together. I'll take a picture of mine if it will help any.

Basically use your brush to collect some paint from the pot, put that paint down on the palette. Then use your brush to collect a tiny amount of water from your water pot (keep in mind brushes can soak up and store a ton of water!). All you need to do is briefly dip the tip of your brush into the water and capillary action will do the rest. Then you mix that water into your paint on the palette. Make sure to clean your brush.

The nice thing about this method is that if you water it down too much you can add more paint, or if you didn't thin it enough you can add a smidge more water.

If you want a darker metallic on the boltgun I suggest getting good coverage with Leadbelcher / Boltgun Metal / Gunmetal Gray and then using Nuln Oil / Black Wash to darken it.
>>
>>54137255
Thanks man
>>
>>54137255
Afraid not, although I took a considerable chunk of inspiration from a guy a few months back making the Spartan Assault Church. I just like giving each of my armies a centrepiece of some kind, even if it's kinda small - my Inquisition allies have their converted Goliath Truck pimpmobile with etched brass decals and the black-and-red paint job, my Genetors have the Whale-Stormbird WIP that is currently sitting in some Simple Green to remove the paint that came on it and my Word Bearers will have the Siegebury Cathedral.
>>
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First time I've ever painted anything
>>
>>54137306
I tried to make a video but I couldn't do it on my shitty camera and without a tripod, sorry. Need three hands.
>>
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The WIP here is my own painting skill;
These are some of the first two Nurgle CSM I painted. I basically primed white, then did Nurgling green where I wanted, Agrax Earthshaded all over, and did a mix of leadbelcher and nuln oil for the guns. More to follow.
>>
>>54138023
Thin your paints. Also there is a pretty obvious moldline on the rightmost marine's backpack.
>>
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>>54138023
More marines later down. The Blight King Obliterator involved my first edge highlighting, and splotching of nurgling green on a base coat, instead of being the base coat.
>>
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Yes boys, finally got some time for some therapy.. I mean modelling. Ignoring my half done predator for now, this evenings task, prepping some more plaguebearers.

>>54135961
Looking smart.

>>54137821
Solid start, get some colour in there to break up the silver.
>>
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>>54138057
Im getting to thinned paints lol Just showing my progress over time
>>54138094
A more standard base coating now, with work being done on the nurgling splotches. (The model was my brother's; this is after trying to fix up the actual holes and such)
>>
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Why did my base coat give them a texture?
>>
>>54138177
>Why did my base coat give them a texture?

How was the temperature combined with the humidity the day/time you sprayed him? Hot is bad, stuffy is bad, hot and stuffy is the worst!
>>
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>>54138172
Next along the progress path is a Maw-Krusha. Not much new in techniques used.
>>
>>54138212
Hot. 90-100 degrees in my garage. Super dry. (Live in Desert)
>>
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>>54138222
And lastly, one of my more recent models. For my necron army, I decided to actually start trying out thinning my paints. Now with my next batch of destroyers (still in the works), I will be practicing gap filling and things. That's all!
>>
>>54137257
Cut with a Silhouette cameo plotter
>>
>>54138172
>>54138222
not that bad, they could just use a few highlights, especially at the edges
>>
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Finished painting my Emperor's Champion. I think he came out decently, the trim on the shoulder pads is kinda messy and edge highlighting is still a bitch, but otherwise alright.
Also you almost can't tell that the sword is warped from this angle. Thanks Finecast
>>
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>>54138393
another angle
>>
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>>54138417
>>
>>54138392
Thanks! Only like 2 other people in my group of friends even bother to paint their stuff, so I don't have that much competition :P
Maybe highlighting will be a near future goal then to properly learn it
>>
>>54137306
I'm using black paint as primer (I can get the official name when I get home) so I think the latter.

And are you saying it's better to paint normally then darken, versus underpainting in an effort to let more of the black through?

>>54137859
I think I get the idea, thanks. I'll paint another guy using your technique and get back to you.
>>
>>54138393
I like the sarong, but the white on the shoulder pads and the gold is just far too chunky. You might want to redo those parts.
>>
>>54138569
The camera makes it look a little chunkier than it actually is but I see what you mean, white and gold are always colors I have trouble getting right.
>>
Quick what type of drill should I buy for gun barrels
Specifically something I could get at Home Depot
>>
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>>54138642
You shouldn't use a drill they would probably damage your minis, use a pin vice, the Army Painter one is a little more than $10 and comes with drill bits for minis specifically. You won't find it at Home Depot though, usually in hobby shops or game shops.
>>
>>54138642
I got a pin vice from micro center for $3. It does a fantastic job. You will need a set of small bits as well.
>>
>>54138393
>>54138417
>>54138451
I can't tell if it's supposed to be navy blue or black, and the white on the shoulder is a little messy, but other than that I think you did a bang-up job! The cross on his shoulder and the highlighting on his loincloth are both pretty well done.
>>
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>>54137613
He finished it - along with a chapel Rhino
>>
>>54138815
Thanks, I always have trouble with white, it's a real pain in the ass to paint properly. I don't do a whole lot of freehanding so I'm fairly proud of how the cross came out. Glad you like it.
His armor is supposed to be black, to clarify.
>>
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Early wip of some scourges. Assembled with 7th edition in mind, but excited to try them in 8th. My thinned nuln washes dry looking shitty, anyone have tips to combat that? I was thinking a layer of gloss but I don't like how gloss looks after I spray dullcote
>>
>>54138851
That's the one. Nice.

A Mastodon-sized Chaos Cathedral in the same vein of that was the plan, although I don't know where half those bitz are from and they would be kinda handy.
>>
>>54138851
I love those, but why do they have so much mixed iconography?
>>
>>54138884
I think the majority are from the garden of morr kit (or whatever name it has for aos)
>>
>>54138486
I'm looking forward to your updates. Always great to see people looking to improve.

> On primer
If you're using Abbadon Black out of the paint pot that might be part of your problem. It's not primer (more on that later) and it's a layer or two of paint that you're putting on and thickening up your mini.

Primer is a specially formulated paint that contracts and shrinks as it dries. The bare plastic (or metal or resin) of a miniature doesn't provide a great surface for paint to adhere to, so that's why we use primer first. You could buy GW or Army Painter's primers but for black I'd just go and get some regular primer from a hardware store. Make sure it says matte primer specifically, not matte paint, not gloss primer, etc.

> On dark paints
I'd say it's better to either create a dark shade of your paint by mixing it on your palette, or darkening it up after with dark washes. I get that you can apply a single thin coat that lets the undercoat show through, but there're a few problems
1) A single thin coat may not be smooth.
2) You won't have the same amount of thinning and same coverage over all your miniatures, leading to an inconsistent paintjob.
>>
>>54138884
it's the garden of morr kit, and/or sigmarite mausoleum
https://www.games-workshop.com/de-AT/Morrs-Garten
https://www.games-workshop.com/de-AT/Sigmarite-Mausoleum-2017
other parts like the candles are custommade (what I know, he used some sort of "plastic-tubes" and greenstuff for the candles)
>>
>>54138960
Hot damn, I wish I could put that amount of effort into my minis
>>
>>54138920
>>54138960

>garden of morr
TY anons, that looks about perfect if I combine it with some of the various Imperial Sector bits and probably two sets of tracks if I can find some suitable ones. Weapons can be jazzed-up Baneblade sponsons with Kastelan flamers instead of Hbolters, not sure what to do with the Melta Array but I suspect it will involve Knight Thermal Cannon.

I'll draw up some plans and look for good tracks, and try and find the Mastodon dimensions.
>>
>>54138236
High temperature is terrible for spray paints, 60-75 should be your sweet spot.
>i live in desert
do it really early in the morning or in the evenings when temperature is just right.
Just so you know, low temperatures are just as bad so you still have to aim for 60-75
>>
>>54138960
What's the difference between the twos?
>>
>>54139062
The Sigmarite one is literally just two Morr's Gardens from what I can tell...
>>
>>54139062
not much actually, the sigmarite mausoleum is basically two repacked morr's gartens
so yeah, the one difference is, one has more stuff into it
>>
>>54139024
good to know. thankfully ive only done a few so far.
>>
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Quick update on garran branatar homecoming edition. The colours are mostly in place, although some cleaning is yet to be done.
Also started highlighting here and there.
>>
>>54138917
The minis are clearly separate. You can place whatever mini you want on the tanks balcony.

The chaplain is supposed to go on the Land Raider Cathedral and the chaos priest on the Rhino Church.
>>
>>54139457
>>54138917
they're both word bearers stuff. the guys who used to preach about the emperor and shit. I don't really know why they have mixed iconography because they're worshiping chaos stuff now, but I guess it kinda works with them? (you can see on the land raider that there is clearly a full skeleton with some chaos-y symbol attached to it, clearly not imperial)
>>
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Working on the Geigor from BoP. First time doing S.Wolves, but I do like their gray 30k colour scheme without the blue from 40k.
>>
Any ideas on what colors to use to drybrush my Iron Hands tactical marines? On my characters i edge highlight dark reaper and thunderhawk blue. Should i use the same ones for drybrushing?
>>
>>54140291
don't drybrush marines
>>
>>54140306
If i have to edge highlight every single tacmarine i'm gonna go fucking insane.
>>
>>54140324
So go insane. At least your minis will look presentable for it.
>>
>>54140291
Dark Reaper and thunderhawk blue then wash with nuln oil.
>>
>>54140324
Edge highlighting isn't that hard man. Just use some runefang steel and run the side of your brush on any lines. Drybrushing just looks really sloppy. It should only be used for really dense texture and things like weathering.
>>
>>54140324
Oh boo hoo poor little space marine player.
I play Orks, how do think I feel?
That's why I cheat and only highlight the skin metal and purple on my boyz
>>
>>54140324
Not the guy but I only really enjoy the results of Drybrushing when painting Cloth, Weathering, skeletons and Terrain. I does work alright On marines on the backpacks and shoulderpads but you sometimes need to "correct" the slips on the shoulderpads
>>
>>54140415
Duncans drybrushing tutorials look fine though.
>>
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Is it possible to obtain this effect on some shallow puddles in a model? I'm looking at some videos on AK Interactive and man do I want to try those weathering effects
>>
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Guys do you have any advice or suggestions on how to convert my own Warboss in Mega Armour, I feel like the meganobz models are too small.
>>
>>54140448
With the new Secret Weapon stuff it is
>>
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>>54140456
Get a Megaboss from Sigmar and put a power klaw and some guns on it and you got yourself a big Ork in Mega Armour
>>
>>54140468
>Secret Weapon
I can't find it? Is it a pigment?
>>
>>54140352
Edge highlighting looks like shit though. Why would my CSM look like they have a factory fresh paint job?
>>
>>54140550
You can do weathering and effects afterwards. Typhus corrosion and the like should go on top of a decent paint job.
>>
>>54140456
Use plasticard and greenstuff to build mega armor around a blackreach boss.

Don't do this >>54140513 unless you're doing a snakebites clan or tribe. (and even then it's a boring braindead conversion)
>>
>>54140572
>Says the guy who doesn't have 60+ models left to paint
>>
What materials and dimensions am I looking at for a pole arm to fit Space Marines? I need to extend the size of a power axe.
>>
>>54140537
http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=143_144&products_id=987&zenid=ebbf9a64abbfcd3ab568a7031bd882da
>>
>>54140550
>edge highlighting looks like shit
post pics of your minis, nigger.
>>
>>54140643
Those are just normal weathering pigments?
>>
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Working on more bootleg terrain anyone have any secrets to doing such or inspirational pics or anything?
>>
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>>54140699
Aerial shot between buildings. Also just how dense should shadow war terrain be?
>>
>>54140693
all kinds of things, washes meant to simulate oils, paints meant to simulate engine grime, etc etc etc
>>
>>54140217

I bought Geigor thinking he has a cool sculpt and would be easy to paint due to the heavy amount of details.

Then I got the sprue and saw just how thin and tiny the trim was and noped my way out of there. I haven't painted power armor in over a year and am working on some Terminators so maybe I'm just not used to that size anymore.
>>
>>54140592
Is Blackreach boss not smaller than actual Mega Nobz?
>>
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>>54140594
Stop being lazy and put in the work.
>>
>>54140735
What should I use for that iridescent oil spill kinda effect?
>>
>>54140798
You, my friend, have problems
>>
>>54140799
True iridescence is basically impossible. get good with Secret Weapon's Old Oil, Fresh Oil, and Engine Fluid.

Layer them on top of a wet-effects type product to simulate the type of oil spill in your pic.
>>
>>54140805
Why? I bought them all on an extremely steep pre-order discount, haven't bought anything since Nov 2016, and have slowly and steadily been working through them.
>>
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>>54140780
Don't know how big Mega Nobz are but here is the blackreach boss compared to a boy
>>
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Just finished a warrior blob.
Overlord
crypteks/characters
immortals
Heavy Destroyers
Stalker
Sector imperialis objectives
What should I paint this 4th of july?
>>
>>54140630
Got a pic of the model in mind?
>>
>>54140900
You sir win at taking epic pictures of models! Really dig the orange rods too.
>>
>>54140550
>Edge highlighting looks like shit though
you look like shit
>>
>>54140849
Thank you anon :) I'll try
>>
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>>54140662
These are my minis now. the edge highlighting is burning me out on the hobby fast as hell.
>>
>>54141029

THAT'S BESIDE THE POINT OKAY
>>
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WIP seems dead, so I'm going to post some pics of recent stuff.

tried an experiment
>>
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painted this on Saturday
>>
>>54141071
yea dont bother with it, since that highlighting is terrible
>>
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2nd
>>
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3rd
>>
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close to done
>>
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>>
>>54141178
Seems like he was following GW's painting tutorial for Iron Hands.
>>
>>54141071
>>54141178
They don't look so bad the one on the pouldren looks a little thick but other than that I'd say keep trucking!
>>
>>54141250
It says in the GW tutorial to make the first highlight wide.
>>
>>54141273
Oh well then in that case your doing fine crack on lad!
>>
>>54141162
>>54141187
>>54141197
Looks real nice, but I gotta say I feel his teeth are a bit too white and clean looking
>>
>>54141071
dude if you hate edge highlighting dont do it. just drybrush them, they're your minis. they might look shitty but so what, they dont look amazing now
>>
>>54140900
>That shrek
Is this the Shrektyk dynasty or something.
>>
>>54141357
I salvaged shrek mini from a sippy cup I found downstairs. I haven't finished painting him yet tho. I want to use yellow washes for armpit sweat. I was going to proxy him as a SWA special operative
>>
>>54141385
>Armpit sweat
You have me picturing an army of Nurgle shreks, well done anon.
>>
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Making an altar for a demonic sword
>>
>>54141121
>>54141162
>>54141187
>>54141197
>>54141219
>>54141230

very nice stuff
>>
>>54141443
Fulgrims sword?
>>
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>>54141443
>>
>>54141443
>>54141475
I want one!
>>
>>54140900
Did you turn on a freaking fog machine?
>>
>>54140900
>Fog machine
>Shrek
>Vial of what I can only assume is piss

You're just fucking with us now
>>
>>54141071
OK. just drybrush then, since it looks like shit as is.
>>
>>54141601
>>54141530
vape. i wish i was cool enough to own a fog machine
>>
I can't stop procrastinating
>>
>>54141781
you need to develop an audiobook habit
>>
When using Citadel layer paints, how much should I thin them? I'm going to paint Primaris marines using Altdorf Guard blue and Calgar blue.
>>
>>54142000
You should use at least a 10:1 ratio of water to paint
>>
first of the new deathguard. really digging it so far, just don't know how it's going to look on the bloat drone.
>>
>>54141781

Same here. I've found the trick is to force yourself to start the first motion, such as filling up your paint cups. Then the rest just falls in place and once you actually put the brush to the model it's clockwork.

Same thing happens to me with work outs. I never want to work out but as soon as I finish a set I'll just keep moving and at the end of it feel great and be glad I worked out.
>>
>>54142154
You really need a color other than cream and brown. Various greens are usually the go to for DG models, but IMO if you were to use a green glaze or wash it would look dirty but still contrast nicely.
>>
I hate painting skin and faces
>>
>>54142000

A lot. You shouldn't be able to get a complete solid color in one go.
>>
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>>54142702
forgot pic
>>
>>54134968
Very nice anon, if you get an even brighter green and dry brush the wreaths they will look mighty fine., also gloss the fuck out of the black, the effect ends up looking pretty good for armour
>>
>>54140456
Ghazkull is still bigger than the plastic nobs it seems (picture is not mine)

You could also try adding spacers between the legs and the torso to add height and spacers between the arms and the torso to add width.
If you cover the shoulder joints with some fat armor plates to add more bulk that may be enough to make your warboss look bigger.

You can also get away with cheating and adding a bit of height with your basing. If you are not too obvious about it, it can help with that impression too.

If you have enough patience and some plastic card you could also try building a brand new suit of mega armor around a new body.
Ogryns, Ogres or Hordes Trollblood bodies work well for this. AoS Ironjaws may work too, but since they don't come 'naked' may need a bit more work.

If you brake down the mega armor into it's basic pieces you just need a whole bunch of retangles glue to a box around the body.
The advantage of doing it that way is that you can go as big as you want.

I think Kromlech also has a bunch of Meganobs, I don't know how big exactly they are but I think they were bigger.
If you like the sculpts that may be an alternative that would take less work, provided they are bigger.
>>
>>54142745
>>54142745
>I think Kromlech also has a bunch of Meganobs, I don't know how big exactly they are but I think they were bigger.
Found a size comparison pic.
They seem to be huge. Even bigger than Ghazkull.

Personally I think they are a bit busy, but it's definitely easier to just buy one than build one yourself.
>>
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rate my new succubus

My hand slipped while I was painting the skull.
>>
>>54142854
I hate most kromlech orks, they look like they were sculpted out of crumbled resin instead of plasticard.

They basically come pre-customized instead of being an outlet to customize your orks with more options.
>>
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>>54142629
some green glaze sounds like an awesome idea, thanks anon.
>>
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Hey /tg/, wanna play another shitty game of "Guess what this is supposed to be"? I know you don't, but why not give it a try anyway?
>>
>>54141178
>>54141328
>>54141637
Man I can't tell if WIP just has a obelisk up their ass or if that really is shit.
>>
>>54143058

Power generator with vertical clear blue power rods.
>>
>>54143108
>people tell the dude to edge highlight
>he bitches and says it looks like shit so why bother
>>
>this whole edge highlighting conversation
>mfw I don't even edge highlight because I can't but I want them crisp 'Eavy Metal edges
>>
>>54142629
what if i did the horns in a greenish colour?
>>
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>>54143138

Yeah, this one was easy to figure out. I almost fucked up with it though. Since some of the parts are designed to fit together now, as opposed to the Path to Enlightenment earlier, I have to worry about tolerances and component thermal shrinking fucking with dimensions. I'm using a tolerance of 0.025 inches, which is slightly larger than the minimum tolerance of 0.023 inches suggested.

Speaking of the Path to Enlightenment, I had some dry-fits done remotely. It looks like everything is sized as intended. I'm looking forward to getting everything assembled when I finally have the parts in hand.
>>
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>>when you were gonna paint something in an hour but get sucked into freehanding things with varying degrees of success
I need to decide what to do with the lower center of the banner - I'm not sure what exactly that piece of heraldry is.
>>
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>>
>>54143108
WIP is only satisfied when it looks like a golden daemon winner.
>>
>>54143310
>lol NMM looks like shit scrub
>it must take some kind of autism to paint something like that
>>
>>54143287
google "drop cap"
>>
>>54141071
Honestly, bro? Just don't even fuck with anything that isn't a nice, sharp edge. Biggest example, those pauldron highlights. Don't fuck with that. Do tiny curved surface and soft highlights when you get good at it. A few sharp edge highlights here and there in the easy stuff is more than enough to give definition to black armor
>>
>>54143310
>Taking /wip/ seriously
>Taking life seriously
You must be over 18.
>>
>>54143334
Good idea.
>>
>>54143373
>Do tiny curved surface and soft highlights when you get good at it.
How do you think he is gonna get good at it, if you tell him to never paint that stuff?

Frankly that's retarded advice.
>>
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Hey, can someone ID me the citadel paints this guy used? I want to make something like this for my Tau.
>>
>>54143421
It's basically just brush control? And that comes more from general practice than from specifically trying and failing to paint a certain technique? Dunno, dude. If anons problem is getting too burnt out to enjoy painting, probably best to ease up instead imo.
>>
>>54143016
looks a bit lazy. plenty of room for improvement; start with better pictures
>>
>>54143108
its not bad, dude was just being a pissy bitch about how he doesn't like painting, and arguing like people would condone laziness because of it.
>>
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Late night and I can't sleep, so I'm bringing out some of the old conversion projects to work on.

Rear pintle-mounted rokkit launcha got snapped off in the move, but to be honest it looked silly anyway. I want to get some dakka, so at least two more big shootas, one on either side of the cab with a big ammo drum. Should the fourth weapon be another rokkit launcha or big shoota?

Also, anyone got any advice on how to make treads? I've been meaning to do some for this for ages.
>>
>>54143310
and how do you think people win golden demons, dingus? by saying "yeah, looks ok"? it may not be realistic for everyone to paint at that level, but if you dont aspire to be better than you are, why share your efforts at all?
>>
>>54143629
looks fucking awesome dude. is it just a battlewagon chassis under there, or what did you use, besides the obvious battlewagon/munitorum container peices?

for tracks:
http://miniaturesconversion.blogspot.com/2012/09/tutorial-how-to-build-very-quickly-ork.html

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sis.html?_itemId=260603835915&_nkw=Krusher+Pattern+0+Tank+Treads+40&_trksid=p2047675.m4099.l9146#ht_720wt_941
>>
>>54143642
>finishes painting
>"yeah, looks okay"
>standing on first place podium, being handed the Slayer Sword
>"yeah, it was alright"
>being interviewed
>deadpan
>"it was so-so"
>>
little painting experience.
I painted 2 IG start collecting boxes
I have set of primaris marines for allies.
I want them to be shiny like a new car.
I test painted craft gloss acrylic on a sprue. looks alright.
Is there a better option to get this look before I commit to craft paint, for someone with very rudimentary painting skills?
>>
>>54143709
Useful. I'll have to look into this.

It's actually two trukk chassis glued together underneath, with the rest being plasticard and trukk/battlewagon bits. The zzapp gun is the tip of a lascannon (can't remember the kit, landraider maybe) with part of some other gun as the base.

The glyphs are a mix of standard ones from plastic kits, as well as some Forgeworld ones and plain plasticard panels. The rokkit launcha has an orky handle from the ork vehicle weapons kits from Forgeworld on the back of it, which is now unfortunately OOP :/
>>
you could just use regular acrylic miniature paints and then use a clear gloss coat, also. if you want a "deep" or iridescent look they also make model car paints for that
>>
>>54143964
meant for >>54143736
>>
>>54143736

They sell candy coat paint for model cars.
>>
>>54143964
Clear gloss. Is that a spray can of sealer or a modeling item? I don't have a lgs to look at paint product.
>>
>>54144064
is that acrylic or enamel?
>>
>>54144095

They tend to be enamel. It's very very hard to find "special" paints like candy coating, metallic colors, or iridescent or pearlescent paints that are acrylic, they're almost always enamel or lacquer.
>>
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>>54138934
Finally got off work and assembled my marine. I brightened the silver on his gun and bayonet, but other than that I just slapped him together. I would've darkened it with a shader, but all I have is Drakenhof Nightshade and Agrax Earthshade, and neither look like a good choice for a gun. I'll try out the palette method on another marine tomorrow, and we'll see how that goes.

Also, >>54137306 I'm using Imperial Primer to start, followed by Macragge Blue and then detailing from there
>>
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>>54144204
Pt. 2
>>
>>54144204

The shoulder pouches look stupid, but I like them. I don't know if that makes any sense.
>>
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>>54144204
Pt. 3
>>
>>54143452
Pls help. First time painter here need assistance
>>
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>>54144204
Pt. 4
>>
>>54144204
is this banter?
>>
>>54144074
most of the major miniature paint lines have an acrylic gloss coat - games workshop, vallejo, etc.
>>
>>54144268
I totally get what you're saying, and I think the three small pouches work better than the big ones desu. Overall I like the tacticool asthetic when it comes to my marines since a. if they're earth's mightiest heroes shouldn't they be smart enough to have extra ammo/supplies and b. they come with the pouches on the splines so why not use them
>>
>>54143452
Maybe celestra grey, castellan green, and averland sunset as base colors.
>>
>>54144422

I've heard that old fluff says they have compartments for ammo in the shoulders and/or backpack but that doesn't sound like it's current fluff.
>>
>>54144331
probs elysian green, abbadon black, dark reaper, pallid wych flesh, whatever the brighter gold/silvers are called (some AoS sigmarine names) and I couldn't call the red with confidence, but maybe wazdakka
>>
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>>54144422
Forgot photo
>>
>>54144268
I agree wholeheartedly and I'm tempted to try it myself.
>>
>>54144458
this is bait, yeah?
>>
>>54144458
>>
>>54133759
>>54137195
prophet of nurgle?
>>
>>54144431
That just sounds like a hand wave to me so they could justify clean marines. The pouches clutter up the model but I think also add "character" or something gay like that.
>>54144484
No I just think they're cool and add some sort of vague history to the minis. Pretentious hipster shit ya know?
>>
>>54144501
Tau marines are back?
>>
>>54144453
>>54144426
Thanks based anons. May your hearts be blessed.

Love from BC Anon
>>
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>>54144458
>>
>>54144561
I don't give a fuck about the pouches, but your painting and modelling is ass. no highlights, mold lines, come on dude.
>>
>>54144626
Yeah I know that. Why do you think I had such a big conversation with that anon half a page up about proper thinning? Highlighting can wait until I've gotten past meme-level stuff.
>>
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thoughts?
>>
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>>54132745

So I tried to repaint my carnosaur and am doubting the blue stripes for the new scheme. Original is on the left, repaint is on the right. Anything I can do to make the scales better?
>>
>>54144821
The base and face look weird but other than that no complaints. I like the highlighting on the bolter.
>>
>>54144458
thats some hot tom of macragge shit
>>
>>54144864
you need a black wash on the blue stripes, and then a highlight of individual scales with the original blue - overall a really good-looking scheme, you just need definition and brighter highlights on your colors
>>
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So, working on a chain axe conversion, as so. But I want a power source for the axe, something more than just the blades to show it's a chain weapon.

Any suggestions for making one? My problem thus far is I can't really find anything that isn't super huge and makes the thing look extremely bulky.
>>
>>54145125
Krak grenade and hoses made of green stuff?
>>
>>54145162
That was my conclusion as well, but it looked a little silly. Maybe just don't have perspective and I'm looking too close, maybe since I see it as a krak grenade it just doesn't blend for me.

hm.
>>
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>>54144821
>thoughts?
>>
>>54145123
thanks for the feedback

how would you suggest to highlight? a drybrush over the blue, or to highlight the outer edge of every scale?

also there's a little bit of a shine to the blue, would a black wash (nuln oil) take that down?
>>
Any T'au battlesuits the right size to be looted for a Deff Dread?
>>
>>54145195
the wash will take the shine down, and then for the best result, a highlight of the edge of every scale will look best. If you trust your brush control, a sort of "wet-drag" method can work too, with thicker paint, if you can keep the distance between the bristles and the model consistent.
>>
Anyone know a good way to reflect laser burns on armor?
>>
Working on my Carcharodons at the moment, really liking how they are turning out.
>>
>>54144503
Nah just a reaper mini, iirc Friar something. He's not gross enough to be a nurglite.
>>
>>54140900
>What should I paint this 4th of july?
A Necron in Red, Blue and White

>>54141121
a little bit "too" clean (especially for a Khorne-follower, but maybe, I am just jealous)
but nice and interesting scheme for Khorne

>>54141443
>>54141475
looks demonic

>>54142702
>>54142716
I know that feel (at least with the faces)
looks great tough

>>54145570
nice
>>
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>>54143629
Just added a bit more dakka. One thing I like about 8th is that I can put shit wherever I want without having to worry about sponsons, pintles etc.

Bottom gun is some Sisters heavy bolter (from the Immolator, I think?) with most of it trimmed down and the barrel replaced with something more orky. Top is the same but the bracketed exhaust from the ork kit, plus whatever the hell that ammo loader is for. Glue needs to dry before I tidy it and drill the top barrel.

I still need one more big shoota or rokkit launcha. Running out of space to put it without it looking stupid.

I'll probably try and do the tracks tomorrow.
>>
>>54132745
If my wash pooled up heavily and dried, what's a good way to fix it?
>>
So I just bought a bunch of old minis, and a lot of them are bent to shit. What's the best way to fix em without weakening them any further?
>>
>>54146302
Depends on the material.
>>
>>54138172
How'd you make the inside look as black as it does? I'm very interested
>>
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Oh ebay you trippin
>>
>>54146317
It's pewter.
>>
So the primer ended up looking velvety on one of my models, usually this isn't the case.

Does anyone know what I did wrong?
>>
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What would this be a good proxy for?
>>
>>54146680
Depends on size. Probably a dreadnaught/knight
>>
>>54146680
That's the most retarded mech I've ever seen. The huge fucking AT-ST head on a manlet body makes it look like a goddamn child.
>>
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>>54140513
This. I painted pic related a while back. Could work, and if you're more adventurous than me, you can actually cut off the dragon skull. The Right shoulder pad won't have a hole in it if you're careful.
>>
>>54141121
Plasma for the plasma God!
Odd but I like it.
>>
>>54140798
Is your closet my closet?
>>
>>54140456
Kitbash a killa kan and a mega nob.
>>
>>54145570
Looking good void brother. The gold is a bit bright for my taste but the tribal markings look great.
>>
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Working on my Wasp nids at the moment, but I cant decide on how to do the markings. Can you help me, /WIP/?
>>
Has anyone used pic related before?
Wanting to do some tank tracks and i dug it out of my drawer, how is this meant to be used or is it just a normal wash?
>>
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>>54147942

Did a few tests here, which one looks the best? Or do you have any better ideas?
>>
>>54147950
I really like 7 anon, though 8 gets a cute loveheart outa 10.
If you can easily replicate no.7 then you will have a really cool looking set. you could always vary the markings per unit also, eg zoanthropes have number 3 while little shitters have no x.
>>
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Haven't picked up a brush in over 20 years, but thought I'd get back into painting again after the kids started getting interested in 40K.

Apologies for the potato photo. Just trying to get a decent set of colours together for a nice warm gold. Its short of a couple of highlighting layers, but how is the base looking?

I know it might be sacrilege using an old metal Necromunda model as a test bed, but its not like he was ever going to get used.
>>
>>54147950
I like 3 and 6 the most
>>
How do I paint predator?
>>
>>54135961
Yes, there are a lot of ways you could grime them up, a simple layer of agrax earthshade would be the easiest route, but you could also take some watered down typhus corrosion technical paint to some key areas. Nice to see you drilled your barrels. Although for some reason the barrel on the one second from the left is too small, which is strange seeing as how the other bolters don't seem to have the same problem. You should also widen up the barrel of the plasma gun a little.
>>
>>54135976
I fucking love the modular features of these new sets, I could toy around with them forever.

>>54136021
And now I'll always think of that when I look at them. Maybe we could take two of those domes and put that chimney in the middle...
>>
>>54147950
Do all of them
>>
>>54148095
Looks alright so far but pretty monotonous, kinda hard to pull off these golden only looks when they model doesnt have too much detail.
>>
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>tfw you lose airbrush access and have to go back to painting reds poorly by hand
I feel like I can't get much further with these guys without buying my own airbrush to fix the reds and add more clean white lines for visual variety.
>>
>>54148494

Cheers man. The model is just to test the palette and the medium really. I haven't painted for so long and even then I'd moved away from metal.
>>
>>54142702
>>54142716

Really like the black/gold here, more pics of similar? Tips on how its' done?
>>
>>54147894
Wouldn't turn out well. Killa Kans are pretty big desu
>>
Quick question: Does simple green or acetone affect green stuff during paint removal?

Messed up not taking into account how dry and windy it was when I tried priming outside, resulting in a grainy surface that will ruin painting.
>>
>>54140456

you can just use the thraka model


otherwise you could cut up all the limbs as well as the body and extend them with green stuff
>>
I finally got some Dettol, something that is not readily available in my country. I got it for cleaning up metal models that I got off eBay. What's the proper way to use it?
>>
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>>54149289
for metal models anon you really coulda used a bunch of other products, however the general consensus is to get an old toothbrush, get a test piece, soak it for 15 mins, attempt a brush, If the paint doesn't completely disintergrate then wait another 10, attempt a brush.

Once you have figured how long its going to take the dettol/cleaning product to soften the paint enough that you can scrub it off easily, record the time, then do it for ALL of them(at once if your game ofc)

WARNING!:
you said you have metal models but be careful with any plastic bits my man. just warning you. if you have any plastic bits do not leave them in for long or scrub hard or it will erase the detail or melt the plastics.


now how the shit do I make the pennant/banner for this guy bsbey, I have no idea what to do and I'm out of transfers
>>
>>54146428
It's a hollow empty socket, not painted.
>>
>>54140798
Don't those models get quite repetitive after the first box?
>>
>>54143452
you need a serious counterweight under that base or the poor suit will topple
>>
>>54144821
What's with the base?
I think the axe handle is odd. The bottom of it is red, the top is golden.
The skull on the axe looks sloppy.

Nice colour scheme, I like the golden trim on the fine ass coat.
Good highlighting on the pistol.
>>
>>54143058

>more soulless cad garbage

kys
>>
>>54149813
go back to your retirement home, old man.
>>
>>54149813
dude its tau come on
>>
Right so I'm going to try my hand at highlighting for the first time. For Macragge would Enchanted or Regal Blue work? They're all I have on hand.
>>
>>54150602
I'd go with enchanted.
>>
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>>54144204
I tried thinning down my primer. Any better than before?
>>
>>54151100
is this imperial primer? looks janky but if its smooth to the touch paint will probably go over it ok
>>
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>>54138094
>>54138115
>>54138172

I actually kinda like your paintjobs. It manages to capture crusty dried nurgleness quite well.
>>
>>54143452
Castellan, Celestra and Jokaero used for base colours - of course not counting abbadon and leadbelcher. Gold looks like retributor armour. Recess shade of agrax on everything and weathering woth abbadon and leadbelcher.
>>
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>>54140900
WHAT ARE YE DOIN' ON MY TOMB WORLD?
>>
>>54140900

SOMEBODY
>>
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>>54151148
It's smooth, just smokey for some reason. Perhaps I'm thinning too much?

Anyway, I finished two thin blue overcoats, and did the silver and gold detailing before having to go to work. I'll do the black and red when I get back. Anyway, am I applying too thickly still or have I thinned enough?
>>
>>54146680
Tau Broadside
>>54152075
>>54151100
That looks much better than earlier model, but I think you should try spray paint for undercoat.
They usually perfectly cover the whole model while staying very thin. I used imperial primer for long time and I deepy regret it.
>Anyway, am I applying too thickly still or have I thinned enough?
I'd thin it more, but there's definitely progress from the last one. Again, it may be fault of the primer
>>
What is a good primer you can find at a hobby or home improvement store?
>>
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Does anyone know where I could get pipes/wires similar to these?
>>
>>54152203
army painter stuff is good and probably everywhere
>>
>>54152259
When I said hobby store, I meant something like Hobby Lobby.
>>
>>54152203
>What is a good primer you can find at a hobby or home improvement store?

Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X. Make sure you get the Primer; Rustoleum also make a Paint + Primer that doesn't have quite the same tooth to it.
>>
>>54152257
These are just insulated copper wires. Try a hardware store.
>>
How do i paint bone color properly?

>Prime muhreens gray
>Paint bone
>Thin paint as it should be, but takes a bajillionty coats to get a solid color
>Too thick now, looks bad
>Go to shade thinking that will help it
>shade looks like junk, and muddies the bone
>Another bajillionty coats to cover the excess, too thin so the paint runs into the recess, fucking up the shade too

How thin is too thin? Is basecoating with zandri dust that important?
>>
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In the process of cleaning, reposing, assembling and painting 40 necron warriors along with the rest of an army

It's been a while since I did this and it's taking for fucking EVER,
>>
>>54152629
spray the bone sections white separately if possible or tape off sections.
>>
>>54152629
It's really simple what I do but i like to put some clean white and then a single rather thick layer of agrax earthshade, then a little of agrax where I feel it will fit righ. I only painted horns with that technique tho.
>>
Is an airbrush better for priming if you can't prime outside for 2/3s of the year, and can't spray paint inside?
>>
>>54137821

Also apparently the first time you've ever photographed anything!

I kid, but you should definitely use a less busy background for photography, makes it a lot easier to see the mini itself.

On the plus, it's a good color scheme and the paint's not too thick. On the downside, brush control is a tad sloppy in some areas and your highlights are too stark, there's not enough transition between the actual color and the highlighted edges.

Give him a good wash and most of the bad's gonna go out the window and you'll have a decent tabletop quality mini. Keep going, anon.
>>
>>54152891
it's better even if you can
>>
>>54140798

>Warhammer and Warmachine

My man. How many armies of each do you have? I've got Daemons of Tzeentch, Thousand Sons, and Renegade Knights for 40k armies and for Warmachine I've got a bunch of Menoth and a small Convergence of Cyriss army.
>>
>>54140900

Well done, and awesome use of the vape.
>>
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Thread's gonna start autosaging soon but fuck it, how would you guys go about making a Knight Atrapos look like it's possessed by a Herald of Tzeentch? I've got lots of Chaos bits but I don't think I'm gonna be able to pull off the possessed look without a lot of sculpting. I was thinking of sculpting some flesh onto him and having a gradient where it changes colors, but where do I put it? How much do I put on? What else can I do so he doesn't just look like a regular Knight with skin that changes colors?
>>
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>>54153225
Some of this, some tentacles, some books, maybe some ugly sorcerers around his feet carrying bullshit
>>
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>>54153415

The fuck is that? Some kind of resin? Looks like good stuff, I could do that. Don't like the idea of tentacles though.

What do you think of having a few Blue Horrors crawling around on his armor?
>>
>>54153527
No idea what Vicol is, just saw that image one day and saved it for future refrences, I think having a few crawling and a few shambling would look dope. Magnetized obviously so if you need extra Horrors you got em.

Maybe even have the horrors represent the level of damage he has taken or something
>>
>>54153527
PVA glue.
>>
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>>54153225
>Thread's gonna start autosaging soon

Han'll have that thread saged. We've got to give him more time!
>>
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Got him based, second is in the tin can of nail polish remover.

Stripping models is a pain in the ass
>>
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Daily update
>>
>>54153415
>>54153655

Can't find shit by googling, so it's just PVA glue? And microwaving it gives it a texture like that? Because that's pretty sweet.
>>
>>54154363
Seems like you can't tell it is a recast once it's painted, nice
>>
>>54154375
That's what the other anon said, id try it on a different PVa first and see if it does the same thing
>>
What better to base Carcharodons, black or white? I have a grey primer, but it's not GW, so idk how well it will match GW grey.
>>
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>>54154514
Obtain airbrush, apply zenithal
>>
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Finally getting my thousand sons done. Base metals are on, time to wash and layer it up.
>>
>>54154578

I would love to, but I can't afford the investment at the moment. After I get the work done on my car, I'm going to save up for and/or impulse buy one. In the mean time, I'm stuck with rattle cans.
>>
>>54154363
Is it a Tzeentch mech or from warmachine or something? Looks good so far.
>>
>>54154438
Well the recast parts are easily picked out on closer inspection. It helps that it's less than 50% recast visible surface area.

>>54154851
Kitbash Chaos Decimator in service to the Thousand Sons
>>
>>54154578
I do zenital with spray desu.
>>
>>54152425
>tfw been using the paint+primer the whole time
>>
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>>54143287
>>54143251
Ah my fellow battle brother. I have played Fists in 30k, as such I'm not too familiar with
the look/iconography of their 40k counterpart. Wish I'd painted the helmet white like yours.
>>
>>54154363
Pretty neat! What'd you bash it with?
>>
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>>54155229
Rock on, battle bro. I dig the tiny legion number. Was that on a transfer sheet or are you just a beast?
>>
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>>
>>54155525
Man, that is some seriously nice death guard.
>>
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>>54155568
Thanks! My heretical friend here just finished em. I think they're pretty rad too.
>>
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>>54155568
>>
>>54155355
100% the Forgeworld 30k IF transfer sheet. I'm going to buy another one soon. Such a quality sheet.
>>
>>54155657
>>54155648
Only shame is that they're not as tall and anatomically correct as the Primaris marines, but they're still fantastic fucking miniatures that just ooze nurgle.
>>
New thread where
>>
>>54155719
Oh man. I actually have been using their old sheet, this one is way cooler. I have an achilles that would love some of these big detailed ones.
>>54155733
Super agree. They really did a fantastic job designing them.
>>
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So I'm going to be working on a techmarine soon, from my understanding khorne red would work best for the base color?

I only have mephiston red though, would it be possible to mix in some black or a dark brown with it to produce a darker red like khorne red, or would I be better off just buying a pot of khorne red?
>>
>>54155911
I think there's a specifically mechanicus flavor of red if you're interested. Mechrite red? I'd probs use khorne red.
>>
>>54156033
mechrite red was phased out for the new citadel line

Im very certain khorne red is its new equivalent
>>
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Anybody ever tried to use bismuth in their wips? Looks pretty cool, it'd make for some nice bases. Would it work well for that? Or is it too fragile/strong to be able to fit it on bases?
>>
>>54156214
Fun fact, bismuth is about as dense as lead and similar in properties, but significantly less toxic and often used in pharmaceuticals
>>
>>54156256

So it's like an actual heavy metal? Something I wouldn't easily be able to break apart to stick on bases?
>>
>>54156214
Make sure it's pure Bismouth or it'll melt in your hands
>>
>>54156285
probably not
>>
>>54156287

Like gallium? That's also kind of a deal breaker.
>>
>>54156309
Not that bad, but it does melt at 70°C with like 12% of whatever the filler is.
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