WIP WORK IN PROGRESS GENERAL /WIPG/

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Kicking it off with my varanguard knight, apart from some highlights and touchups its finished, ideas for basing?

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So what you think of my Dark Eldar?

>>53414124
I wish I had his waistline.

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4th for wet palettes

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Came up with this off-white colour by accident and actually quite like it.

Not sure which chapter to do with it though, any ideas?

>>53414237
any idea how to remove silicone layer form baking paper, I feel like my paints are not getting hydrated, just slightly delayed with drying.
I used to have amazing baking paper, but I ran out of that one and I couldn't find exactly the same brand.

>>53414264
That would make an excellent base for White Scars. Mind sharing your technique?

>>53414264
White Scars.

Good luck getting the red and yellow to look good!

>>53414304
Honestly, best bet is to go to a different shop and buy different paper. I've heard that soaking the parchment for a minute or so in hot water helps, but I never do that.

Also, some of those paints have been on there for 3 days and about 8 hours out in the open.

>>53414024
I'd say go for some cracked earth effect with browns and greys, maybe some pale green/brown tutfs and cork rocks, lava is too obvious and would probably blend waaay to much with that kind of paintjob.

>>53414124
I would say to tone down the red, but it is deldartgdudufh or whatever they are now.

>>53414024
>>53414384
yeah a paintjob with cool and warm colors featured so prominently is tough to harmonize with a base, so i second something really neutral - medium brown/beige earth with some muted green

>>53414264
Mentors chapter

If you don't mind painting the torso green.

>>53414306

Got u senpai

It's literally just;

> corax white primer
> cover with 1:1 Agrax and Lahmian Medium
> drybrush white Scar
> edge highlight white scar

>>53414124
neat scheme overall, but the paint is way too thick and chunky. also some major slops of paint from one area to another. cool idea you just need way more practice before you can make a model that detailed look good.

>>53414124
It looks messy. You should really look at the painting tutorials on Warhammer's youtube channel. They'll set you on the right track.

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>want to paint them quick
>use pre-shading and glazes on skin
>finish that in no time
>go for white armour form grey primer, bretty quick aswell
>then decide to learn freakin NMM on them
>it took just as long as other models I've been paiting

>>53414264

Star Phantoms

Edgy devestator marines make me hard though

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>>53414511
>And we've got rides, and cotton candy, and Tzaangors, too! All colors!

>>53414511
you actually got too good at painting in the course of learning these techniques! the weapons look way better than the flesh/armor. those are OK, they just look a bit hurried/slapdash in comparison

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I made a neat dice tower internal build and I'm looking for ideas on how to cover it. I'd be very grateful for any ideas.

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>>53414384
>>53414466
good point, at first i was thinking of a lava base but it would compete with the colors of the mini too much. Muted brown earth and pale grass would sound great, but my krieg guys already have a similar base theme, pic related, maybe something gray...

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/wip/ I need your help
I found some old orks and with 8th coming up I want to repaint them to a decent quality.
I want to keep the same color scheme, but when I painted them I was using the old GW paint range. I'm not sure what the purple I used was, but I believe it was Warlock Purple.
Can anyone confirm based on pic related? Also is there a conversion chart for the old paints to the new?

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>>53414558
Well, those parts were supposed to be done quick and I'm aware that I could push them way further - especially the skin where I did not put higlights at all, (besides feathers and blended tencales at back). But it's my battleline infantry, and hopefully, I will go full crazy with one riding dics and heroes.

I share early (and poorly photographed) wip of enlighted.

>>53414735
It would be genestealer purple form GW, or hexed lichen form vallejo.

>>53414802
how do you properly shade the floor area of those discs? I tried washing and drybrushing but the details seem too fine for either.

quick question, im planning to prime black my minis with an airbrush. i heard priming with a rattlecan when humidity levels are high is a bad idea, is this the same with airbrushing?

>>53414735
>>53414822
Actually, I did some checking (thanks Dawn of War army painter!) and it turns out it was liche purple.

>>53414304
get parchment paper, not wax paper. they look real similar but are two different things

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Hey /wip/

The other day in one of these threads I asked for recommendations for stripping paint. I picked up some Dettol as someone suggested and it's come up tops! Thanks guy!

>>53415178
No you should be fine senpai.

>>53414564
That does look neat! When you say cover it do you mean seal/varnish it or ideas for a case?

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I always seem to post this stuff right as a thread ends.

To answer >>53410904

The legs are from Victoria Miniatures.

>>53415375
ok, thanks daddy

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So I want to do Mars themed camo and bases for my UNSC marines. What colors should I look for? I'm figuring 2/1 red/brown for metal bits and 2/1 brown/red for fatigues for color differentiation, but what shades of red and brown should I look for?
Pic related, Mars looks a lot like Arizona.

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ThiccSiren Anon here. Made some more progress on the Siren herself. Ended up making a sonic blaster for her (Will add more later) ...


And...

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>>53416046
That delightful fuckin' rear. So proud of this thing. Just need to find a way to smooth it better.

>>53415665
Vallejo game color and model color have a very nice selection of browns, some of which reach into the red spectrum quite a bit.
I'd grab a color chart from them and start there.

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Whatchyall think?

Still need a good idea for glowing eyes. But I may just leave them without the glow.

>>53416147
looks like he is underwater with the basing. Not sure if that is what you were going for.

The liberal application of verdigris also makes him look somewhat like a statue. It's important not to let it collect in joints on armor. Otherwise you end up with a pool of it in a recess where the armor plates would not be connected, but the verdigris give it the appearance of a solid surface.

It may help to pick out the weapons and maybe some details of the backpack or whatever techy bits he has to make it look more like a dude in armor instead of a statue.

Ignore what I said it this is just the first step in your process, the base just kind of give is a finished look.

Guys I'm looking for a website that had lots of really strange 40k conversions on them, lots of strange inquisitor retinue

>>53416342
could start by googling for Inq28 hobby blogs.
wilhelm miniatures is the only one that I can think of from the top off my head, but there are others.

>>53415459
that's just a random picture, sorry.
What I made is made of wood, I'd take a picture but it's already dark today and I have no light to take a proper picture. I'm looking to make an outer shell for the internal structure, could be looking like that obelisk, it's a bit more squat though, not as tall. I'm thinking of what material I should use, since I have leftover wood paneling but I don't want to add that much weight.

>>53416294
Actually, that's great. From what you've said, I hit my goal perfectly.

The idea is that they are indeed statues that have been left underwater for a while. They're now rising to the call of their captain, who is the only one to have survived.

I aimed for a relatively quick and easy scheme that will actually produce decent looking models. I waste so much time on single models that I've never had a painted army.

>>53416385
Yes I found the one I was looking for one the side bar of Wilhelm Minatures, thanks man!

>>53416342
Check out the Ammo Bunker Forum they have a whole board of INQ 28 stuff that's pretty out there.

http://s3.zetaboards.com/The_Ammobunker/forum/3012278/

Jeff Vader's stuff there is amazing.

>>53416456

Hmmm you could get some High Density insulation foam from a hardware store, very light and easy to carve. Seals up easy enough with PVA glue. Probably not terribly durable though. Maybe try just sculpting greenstuff directly on to it?

>>53416771
I happen to have a softer variant of that which I usually use for making terrain features like walls and buildings
I suppose it will have to do for now, I need it done by Friday evening

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>>53416342
exprofundis has some great stuff, though most of their more recent works are chaos

>>53416935
I once got a model looking like that when I tried stripping it with wrong stripper and it started melting before the paint came off

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First of four Autocannon Havocs for my Death Guard. I'm unsure on how the cannon itself came out, but I don't have any ideas to improve the design.

Sorry for bad picture, all I have on me is my phone.

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>>53416970
I think in that case the effect was intentional, but they kind of went overboard with it

>>53417046
Looks great

I'm not sure if the parts would be compatible but maybe use one of the autocannon reloads from the IG kit? It has visible shells so it would look different from the normal HB magazine.

>>53417054
these guys definitely look better
it seems on the big guy they wanted to have barnacles but just went with thick sand texture

>>53417046
it reads as an autocannon so that works

autocannons are not modeled as consistently as many other weapons. Havoc autocannons, predator autocannons, and Chaos Terminator autocannons both look very different.

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>>53417046
Looks grand.

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>>53417082
>>53417119
>>53417164

I appreciate that a lot anons.

Here's another Death Guard that I was particularly pleased with; a Possessed. He still needs some green stuff, but it's mostly there.

>>53416079
>>53416104
Can I get some holla holla critique?

>>53417315
Okay woah not >>53416104

>>53416046

>>53417046
Anon can i steal this

>>53417333
>>53417315
gs work does not look smooth at all

your kitbashed sonic blaster doesn't look like a sonic blaster. It looks like an eldar weapon with a big supressor made by the tau.

what is the point of this? you wanted a smut model? there are plenty out there already

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>>53416147
>>53416673
Fucking sweet dude (not original reply dude) always wanted to do a space marine chapter with that theme

Anybody get like, crumbs in the GW grey and white paints?

>>53417436
It's hella easy man. That's a big reason I like it. It goes like this:

1) Base: Balthazaar gold (thin it or use air)

2) Shade: Reikland Fleshshade

3) Techinal: absolutely drown in oxide. I basically used it as a wash

4) Drybrush: Balthazar Gold again. You might experiment with another metal. I found that this creates a uniform statue look, which is what I'm going for. If you're looking to have live but corroded suits, I might use something else.

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>>53415487

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Got these guys pretty much done

>>53418155
looked nicer before the weathering

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>>53415487

>>53417914
I've had it with some of the "base" paints

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About to get started on bulking my 12 gaunt squads out to 20's

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>>53417973
Thanks bro, ive had a probably VERY dumb idea for an aquatic base but i like the look of yours

>>53417914
Only with my White scar so far. And I can (usually) squish them smooth with my mixing brush

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>4/10 done
>want to die and burned out already
help
whyd I pick an army the three colours I struggle the most with.
I want to go back to painting blue and red and green.

>>53418436
I'm going to use some actual sand. This was that shitty basing paint, painted tan/white. Looks bad. The seaweed is preserved moss and I like that bit a lot.

>>53418521
it's good to challenge yourself, if you keep doing "safe" schemes it's just boring and you'll get stuck in a rut and never get better.

>>53418155

Yellow looks really nice, any trick or just the patience of a saint?

Also, a quick and dirty drybrush of those bases would make them look a lot better for 10 minutes of work.

>>53418521

By and large looks pretty good! The white on the shoulders stands out as a bit messy maybe. What are you building up to it with?

>>53418610
airbrush for yellow on most but patient saint on the first 3

and the dry brush is the last step just the texture paint is drying still

>>53418630
Its just multiple thin coats of celestia grey built over abaddon black with ulthuan grey fine highlight. The problem is cleaning up the black trim and washing the shoulderpads that makes most of the mess

Can you make a wash by just deluding the fuck out of a normal paint, or does it have to be its own thing? Using Vallejo.

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I am finally, once and for all, out of bits

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>>53414735
>Also is there a conversion chart for the old paints to the new?

Yes. Pic related is the official GW translator. If you look in the OP, you will see this link, which is more comprehensive and covers other manufacturers besides Citadel:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

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Does anybody have anything else for Chaos Runes? I've got three references.

I want more options for inscriptions on Chaos models and such, but Warhammer Chaos script isn't as convenient as - say - Daedric.

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>>53419116

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>>53419130

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Reposting, I'mma try and get these guys done I promise. Got distracted tonight though and played Talisman all night with the BF

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>>53419157

I was skeptical when I first saw these unpainted, anon, but they are really turning out nice!

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>>53416079
Looks very nice anon.

very t h i c c

>>53416385
>Inq28 hobby blogs
>Look him up
>Thinks the new Eldrad model isn't as good as the old one
I heartily disagree.

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For any ork people out there:
What sort of wash do you like on your ork skin? Black, brown, or dark green?

>>53419560
Depends. For big warbosses I like a nice black shade to really make him look dark. For boyz I'll usually go in for Agrax so I can wash them and the armor at the same time. For really pale greenskins, like Grotz or Snotlings, I might use a very dark green shade.

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>>53416147
I've got a similar project in my closet, but every time I pull them out to work on them, I remember how much time and effort they take and they get put back.

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>spent a shit ton on hobby materials and paints
>skip buying files or sandpaper cause i figure some household stuff will do
>immediately find myself lacking with coarse connection points that i cant make totally smooth

wtf i thought painting was supposed to be the most time consuming. Cleaning these space marines is taking ages

>>53420236
A good set of files is like 10 bucks at the hardware store, it's not had to get tools

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First try at a Leman Russ for my Death Korps. Somewhat related, I put a Vulcan mega bolter on a Chimera chassis for my engineers to ride around in. Forgive me, Magos.

>>53420402
I suppose, sucks spending hundreds and the one item you think you can cheap out on turns out to be important as well.

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Can anyone Identify these bear sculpts?

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Is there a list of shade/base/highlight paints for Vallejo like there is for citadel?

>>53414594
Maybe rocky/cliff type base? Mostly grey with few tufts of grass?

>>53414489

So you just spray primered it and then gave it a bit of a wash then? I've been trying to find an easier way to do my whites for ages. I use the Corax primer but I just dust it on lightly and then start painting.

>>53415487
Damn those look good. Skitarii heads?

>>53419882
Once i figured out a method, one guy takes about 10 minutes active painting time, if that, for tabletop quality. The longest part is just waiting for things to dry

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How do you guys assembly line paint cultists faster? I sat for 3 and a half hours basing 40+ single cloth pieces and not even fully, just first layer,im thinking of cheating a bit, keeping pants and cloaks same colors, paintinf belts as pants, and painting boots and boot covers the same. Should I feel ashamed? I still have 100+ guard to get through

>>53421056
the thing is though, spraybomb + wash doesn't look that great on its own. That model doesn't look even slightly finished.

Go back and do the details, wash the recesses, and do some edge highlights.

As is, while it is a neat effect, I would consider an army like that to be "tabletop acceptable" and not "tabletop standard"

>>53421235
Well, given that I've yet to ever have a fully painted army of any kind, this sort of quick thing makes that possible.

I do agree with you, though. Details need to be done. I have that issue though where I'll spend a ton of time on one model and never have time to do more. This helps. And yeah, tabletop acceptable is the word.

While I plan on doing more, it's very unlikely that I will. I just don't have time and from far away to doesn't matter too much. The picture doesn't show the shading (which is there), and edge highlights... well, it wouldn't do much. I've accomplished the look I was going for: oxidized copper/bronze statues. They're not supposed to be live KO anyways. Having in all those details wouldn't actually make sense.

>>53420903
No, but c'mon, Anon. You don't really need a chart to tell you how you shade and highlight, do you?

>>53421311
I find it helps to look for time here and there. Got 15 minutes? edge highlight a model, or do a few details

I'm told a wet palette is really useful here since you can seal it up between sessions and hop right into painting the same color a few hours later

>>53421366
I'm relatively new to this whole thing, I don't know how to color theory

>>53414935
They were primed light grey, and then I've used watered down vallejo inks to make basecoat and shade at the same time.

>>53421442
Ah, well: https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

It's not quite 1:1, but it'll get you started.

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Made a bit more progress, I am not enjoying these wings though, finding it hard to get the depth, just look a bit flat at the moment to me.

>>53421380
Sure. But do I really want to? Not really lol. Dry brushing achieved the look I was going for. Edge highlighting won't, I think.

The only thing I really want is the glowing eyes. And other details that would make sense for a statue that's been sitting in the ocean for who knows how long.

>>53421510
They don't look like they have any hard edges you could highlight.

Have you considered blending them with another color like St. Dunkie did with Magnus' wings?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4Hzls-ZU3sc

>>53421611
>But do I really want to?
so you are satisfied with a model that looks like a cheap aquarium decoration painted in a sweatshop? It lacks both definition and detail anon...

>>53414511
how do you do your preshading anon? I tried doing it with black and white spray primer with zenith highlighting and it didn't turn out great.

>>53422028
probably the dubest way ever - prime with light grey and heavy drybrush with white.

>>53421724
For now? Yes. Especially considering I'm an Aquatics specialist. My plan for armies on parade is to actually put them in an aquarium lol. It's not supposed to be wholly impressive. I've had several anons and folks mention the underwater, statuesque look and that satisfies me. Perhaps when everything is assembled and tabletop basic I'll go back. I still have some 2000 points of sigmarines and KO that need to be assembled.

I need to build a lightbox for pics, too. It really does look a lot better in person and I can see how you says it has no depth. There's shadows you can't see in that picture, and the oxide blends well with the copper.

>>53421724
Oh god. Just took a better look at what I uploaded. Yeah, it looks a ton better than that in the hand.

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sorry I missed the replies in the last thread, I got home right as it went down.

Camera still sucks, no surprise there. When I finally get a proper camera I'll take some nice pics of these guys, they're coming along great. They need a few more coats of snow to get it properly fluffy but at least they're somewhat based now for shadow war.

Also had a question. So these guys are going to be used as "modern" 40k alpha legion, even though they're all using heresy tech. I know alpha legion was notorious for not wearing a chapter emblem back in the day and just showing up without chapter emblems, so I'm tempted to leave these guys as is, maybe give them tactical/ squad markings and that's it.

In the other hand, some nice white alpha legion decals from forgeworld would really pop on this scheme. What do you guys think?

and yes I'm painting the bases black don't worry, I'm maybe 80% done at this point

>>53422793
They are looking nice and your bases really work for them, but I think you kinda fucked up with the lenses all around.

I also paint my dudes with the gradient towards the back of the lense and then a white dot, but your dots look way too big. Makes them appear cartoony.

>>53422815
Yeah I need to redo several of the lenses. I mentioned it a while back but this is my first attempt at lenses. I fully expect it's going to take a few tries to get them just right.

>>53420837
the two on the right are foundry.
the two to the front might be too. I think they have two listings for bears, one with two and one with three variants.

There was something confusing about it when I looked into it, can't remember anymore what I was confused about though.

Anyway. Foundry.

>>53417046
This is exactly what I did for my autocannon Gunner for my Shadow War CSM team. Looks great!

I got oil based enamel paint stuck in my brushes :I
Can I use paint remover or aceton to clean them? I read about paint thinner but I don't have that right now.

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Alright so im painting an auroras contemptor dread and i basecoated him with warpstone glow but im not sure if i want to edge highlight with moot green or something else. Any ideas?

>>53423002
Moot Green is the right choice. You can always go over the edges with a glaze if it's too bright for your taste.

>>53423036
thanks anon, will do.

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working on some blood warriors.
good models for practicing steadiness and the control the tip of the brush

>>53423066
What gold is that? It looks great.

>>53423203
Retributor or Relictor I imagine, GWs two brightest golds.

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>>53423203
vallejo gold, its has lesser saturation (almost silver) than the never ones.
it works nice with reikland earthshade since it gives it a bronze like look

>>53423262
cool, I have that paint, I assumed the use of a GW paint, but glad to be proven wrong.

>>53421235
>Tabletop acceptable
Fuck off, they're tabletop acceptable in fucking grey or only primed you fucking fag

I'm trying my first hand at basing some dudes, I used that citadel astrogranite texture paint and just shaded with drakenhoff nightshade. while its drying I figured I'd ask, I don't have any "dry" paints but I've seen the duncan use layer paints on a tissue to drybrush before so figure I'm good there.
What would be a good color to drybrush over the texture to make it more ashpalty/concretey? I was thinking Karak stone as its a lighter color but would I be better off using a grey or something?

also what color do I use for the bottom edge of the bases? Black or grey?

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motivation levels absolutely plummeting after thinking this may take atleast another two weeks minimum to complete...

is my repose gud but /tg/? i hated the original pose.

>>53423466
pallid wych flesh might work. test different colors on something that you don't care about and see which ones you like.

>>53423538
I like that pose a lot, and funny because it doesn't change much, but enough to make it 100 times beter.

>>53416079
When these are done i am going to fap to them so hard.

>>53423563
just tried the wych flesh vs the karak stone on a cultist and I gotta go with the wych flesh. Thanks for suggestion.

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While there is still a lot of stuff that could be corrected and be done better, I decided they are finished.
Really lost motivation after messing up the highlighting on the cloaks, which shows quite a lot. The knowledge that I might just win the contest by deafault didn't help either.

>>53423538
you should have painted it sub assembled.
it makes you concentrate on just one part at the time.

it also makes way easier painting those annoying corners and gaps

>>53423262
Thanks, I suspected Vallejo. It looked too good for GW. GW can't into metallics.

>>53423262
>*reikland fleshshade
I have been drinking too much nuln oil

>>53423656

What's the story with the antlers?

>>53423758
Generic creepy horror motive
I originally planned to keep them in far darker shades.
They really always had them during my entire planning process.

>>53423766
looks like the way dark eldar are painted, check that out maybe

>>53414304
Sounds like you're using wax paper instead of parchment paper.

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Hey guys I want to do my marines based on this, do you know where I could get a helmet like this?

>>53423376
Calm down psycho

>>53423376
Acceptable seems accurate for what he said, and even what you said. Both are sub table top standard. So you're shitting your pants for nothing.
But we know who has a grey tide.

>>53423908
They're not sub table top standard, what is the table top standard?
People say anything from any paint on the models at all, that anon is completely fine and if you think that is sub table top standard, then maybe you should come down to my LGS and tell some of the fat fucks I play with that their shitty models aren't up to scratch, and so they can't play on tabletops

>>53423929
>undercoated models are tabletop standard
>say it to my face faggot not online see what happens
>reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

OK settle down spaz

>>53423890
maxmini sell steamknight heads. The designs are based on some of the early HH artwork that was featured in the TCG.
One of the helmet designs kind of looks similar.

>>53423766
that's incubi darkness with an edge highlight

>>53424014
Do you turn down matches from horde players for not meticulously painting every one of their models?
I mean, if they're not tabletop standard for you, how could you bare play them on tabletop?

>>53424240
Not the guy you're arguing with, but you sound like a fucking retard. Are you a fucking retard?

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Reposting from last thread because I can't fucking decide.

What citadel paints would I need for these blacks and browns? Any input would be really appreciated.

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>>53423766
>How do I replicate the weird dark teal color on the Vindicare's gun?

Chaos Black undercoat, Kabalite Green followed by Dawnstone edge highlight. This particular model was the subject of the "Paint Splatter" article in White Dwarf 65 (pic related).

>>53424264
Amazing input my man

>>53424291
you are very welcome

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>>53423910
>Any advice for painting the stone column behind him? I can't figure out how I should do it.

That's also in White Dwarf 65:

Basecoat Mechanicus Standard Grey, wash with Agrax Earthshade, drybrush Dawnstone (Layer paint), drybrush Terminatus Stone (Dry paint).

>>53424279
the guy on the right looks like he his wearing a dark grey with a slightly purpleish hue.
Don't think GW as any colors that would right right out of the box. A eshingrey/black mix washed with purple (druchii?) might get you close.

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Trying out gun for the IG regiment commander.

>>53424516
Paint it grey and then glaze it with a mix of bloodletter and girlyman blue

>>53424516
I can't believe you see purple. But that's definitely not something I want to go for.

Also what do you think about dryad bark?

>>53424240

I have on occasion turned down games when people want to use unpainted armies, mainly because trying to identify specific units and wargear when everything is primed the same colour can be quite hard. It's like going snowblind. I'm actually more likely to play against someone who hasn't even primed his models, than I am someone who has a tide of white/black models.

I've never turned down a game against anyone who has at least base coated the majority of his models. As a tyranid player I sympathise with people who have horde armies, although personally I prefer to buy and then paint one unit at a time. If I buy an army boxed set I'll only construct one unit at a time and then paint them. It might take me longer to get my army to "table standard" but I have just as much fun painting as I do playing.

>>53419157
Anon where are the helnets from, could i use them on space marines?

>>53424759
>As a tyranid player I sympathise with people who have horde armies
funny considering the majority of tyranid units can be painted with simple wash over white technique.

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>>53424759
>I have on occasion turned down games when people want to use unpainted armies, mainly because trying to identify specific units and wargear when everything is primed the same colour can be quite hard.

It's been my experience that a lot of these guys are WAACfags who just haven't taken the time to paint the three Knights and Baneblade they put together last week after everybody figured how to counter their two-Wraithknights-and-all-heavy-weapons-jetbike Eldar army.

Every once in a while, though, you get those hard-core WAACfags who paint up *both* of their Tau supremacy suits ...

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planning to market these once i get them primed.

does Anon think this looks like it would cost 24-30 USD?

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Pretty stoked to have almost my entire 2K Tau army painted, finally. Doing up the last 8 infantry models right now. After that I just have to put together my Ghostkeel, prime a few more single units and paint those up too. Should all be finished by 8th's release.

Keep at it, lads and ladies.

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>>53424720
>I can't believe you see purple.
I didn't say purple-purple. I said purpleish.

I color picked the image to show what I mean.
It's a clear progression from grey to grey blue, which then get more reddish in the shadows.

On both my monitors it looks that way. Maybe your monitor is calibrated different though.

>>53424937
I think that seems fairly reasonable.

>>53424937
I would pay 25 dollars for it if it was flocked with fine sand to give it a nice concrete texture.

Hey /wip/
Strange question, dose anyone have a way to tint plastic windows to dark so that the interior is not visible, I cannot be asses to pain another cockpit that you can only see from an angle. Especially not on the stormraven that eats time and greenstuff in horrible amounts.

>>53425266
you can just paint it black from the inside.

Otherwise google for the future floor polish tinting tutorial. 'The whole future'
Should be easy to find.

>>53425285
Thanks, I never would have thought to use floor polish, but you learn something new everyday.

>>53423908
Do me a favor:

Grab a KO infantryman and replicate what I did and post a pic. Then do what is being advised (edge highlight and details) so that I can see if it's worth it or not.

A big problem here is that the photo is utter garbage. As I said, they look a LOT better in person. But doing much more than what I have will likely ruin the look I was going for anyways.

Old copper statues don't have edge highlights. They're oxidized seemingly at random; basically where water collects (ie recesses). Due to weathering they tend to be smooth and worn and soft. These models achieve that. If I throw in any different colours other than spooky bits, they won't be statues anymore.

>>53425285
>you can just paint it black from the inside.
that's actually how they do the tint on movie cars.

>>53425285
>>53425346
>Check the floor polish thing out, some guys is coloring drinking glasses with floor polish and that food color thing.
>Makes the recoloring from the inside of the glass.
It might just be me, but drinking shit from a glass you just had floor polish in seems to be a dumb as fuck thing to do.
Shit looks cash tho.

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My first photo of my minis ever.
As well as my first mini I ever painted.
Rate and tell me what colours would you put on his face and tentacles

>>53421197
I did that for my conscripts that were catachans. They get removed so fast. If you still have 140 models left, I would go lazy mode. You can always go back and paint more details on them later.

>>53426378
You might wanna give that a good wash, especially the metal parts, for face and tentacles you really need to ask what god dose he like, is it just as planed-man blueish, if its smelly farts-man go greenish and so on.
Also, there is a mold line on the gun, it maeks me sadest.

>>53419232
Thanks!
>>53424822
They are all FW Chaos Dwarfs anon

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>>53426524
Since my army is heavily "despair/hopelessness" themed I planned to put really pale/grayish colours on pic related which I got from Dark Vengance.
It would work good to put the same on my hellbrute's face.
Thanks for the help, next time I promise no molds on any model!

>>53426378
Looks alright, good job. But it could use a wash of colour to help give in more definition in spots. I'd paint the horns like you'd expect horns to look like and the tentacles red.

>>53426696
It all good man, mold lines happens, and good work for your first mini and pale gray / pasty white is a good color for the face, but do make sure to give it a good once over wash with something like agarax earthshade on the metal, and a slight dry brush after that, will make it look a whole lot better for very little work.

>>53420523
I like it anon, it's subdued but obviously well done. And I like the cage made using what looks like a sentinel cockpit cage, as well. That's a nice touch.

I have some of those Vallejo alcohol metal paints, but I wanted to mix some blue into the silver in small batches. What blue dyes out there can I mix with an alcohol-based paint?

Taking a shot in the dark, but does anyone happen to have the link to a site depicting a converted King's Man from Kingdom Death? Starting in on painting some of the minis, and while I love the sculpt, the pose is a bit too static, and I remember seeing a somewhat simple conversion that just had him walking menacingly that did a lot to make the mini pop

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How do you think - it's fine to Ordo Xenos sniper lasgan? Or it's too big?

>>53427032
The barrel doesn't look aligned properly.

>>53427062
I know, fix it if will be glued.

>>53422793
the contrast between the bases, the base color, and the red details is enough to make these look great on table.

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>>53427032
Maybe a bit longer muzzle? Other than that I like it. Add some bipods to it.

Also guns can never be too big. Im using pic related on my guardsmen as antitank rifles. They are fukken huge compared to you average guardsman.

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wondering what I could do to make the skirt look better

also I'm still undecided on the bone color, maybe grey would be better

>>53427032
looks fine, although the scope is not lined up with the barrel

>>53427032
You have to move the scope further back. There's no way it could be used that far forward. Also, I think it might look better with the cables the other way around, so it comes out of the back of the drum barrel, and connects to the bottom of the lasgun's battery pack. Otherwise, I think it looks cool.

>>53427218
I'm thinking about using AM rifles, but now can't get them.
>>53427276
>>53427293
Thanks, try to fix scope!

New into painting, just got my first batch of paints in the mail and opened some of them to check them out. Found that one is slightly chunky - not entirely liquidy/flowing, does this indicate drying? Or will simply stirring it up a bit solve this?

>>53427361
Yea they were quite hard to get, I probably searched the worldwideweb for 5 days until I came across with few of those.

>>53427520
Stirring and vigorous shaking cannot hurt. What paint was it?

>>53427690
Citadel's Averland Sunset. Gave it a good shake and it seems a bit better.
Can this slight chunkiness be a problem if I start painting with it, though?

>>53427733
Dude, you seriously need to check out https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Citadel-Paint-Guide

The guy in those videos will basically explain you everything, if you follow his advice closely your first mini can come out pretty good.
If you feel like it's too thick just shake it more, when i started I kept shaking those fuckers for at least half a minute before starting. Just make sure there's no bubbles before applying it!

>>53421366

Helps for me.. colour blind. Have trouble with colour hues.

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Necron noob guy from some threads ago.
Finished the first squad and dove into some lychguards...the first is done and damn but am I proud.
I know you will tear me apart, but that's the purpose of this.

So how did I manage? Tips and critics more than welcome

>>53418521
Looks good. Id recommed that you dont glue the shoulder pads, prime them with white instead and work from there. Is just easier.

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>>53428066
And another one

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>>53428066
>>53428090
Last one I promise

>>53416147
Mind telling me where you got those plants for the base, I'm going to be building some aquamarines soon

>>53428090
I'd add some of that lime paint on the edge of the sword.
I'd add some wash on that white skull, it looks weird like that.

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I am working on a couple of Illuminated right now. I still have a bit to go with the clothing mainly.

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Working on a scratch built base

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>>53427733
>Citadel's Averland Sunset. Gave it a good shake and it seems a bit better.

How about getting some heavy glass beads and dropping a few in there to act as glackets when you shake them? Just don't use metal BB's like I did - the paint may corrode them and the stuff will mix into your paint!

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I straight up stole this idea from a WIP poster, so all due credit to them.

But anyway here's my WIP plague bearers.

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>>53428116
That's some preserved moss I picked up at a garden store.

Are you building actual aquariums or dioramas? If you're building real aquatic things, I can give you much better information on actual plants. I'm an aquatics specialist lol.

Here's my 10g community tank.

>>53428116
Rip. I read 'aquariums', not 'aquamarines'. My bad lol

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>>53428437
And some WIP sisters of silence.

I did a super lazy lighting effect on the power swords by putting some Nihilakh Oxide at the bottom of the blade.

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What kind of painting should I go for my ghoul regiment?
Grey or fleshy skin?

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>>53428568

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>>53428568
And here the grey one alone

>>53428568
Both, but if you only want to do one do grey.

>>53427940
Checked them out, good shit man. Thanks.

>>53428419
>glass beads

That's a pretty dank idea, I'll have to get some. I imagine they're sold at every art store. Thanks dude.

>>53428568
>>53428592
>>53428629
>gigantic files
>subject matter takes up 5% of the shot
Stop this.

>>53428419
you can use small cut up pieces of sprue for this.

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So, third member of my Ordo Xenos kill team with custom sniper lasgun.

>>53429374
from this angle it looks like the lasgun extends below his base.

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I haven't painted anything in years so I dug out some old cadains. Figured I could shake some cobwebs by touching them up. These guys were pretty much just paint-by-numbers so I was practicing faces, shading and highlights. It's coming back a little but damn it's not like riding a bike.

Trying to brush up (pun semi intended) on my painting before 8th comes out. The basic scheme I've got involves using Leadbelcher primer and then Ironbreaker as the main colour, with some nuln shading and now I'm choosing the pauldron colours.

I've been testing out what looks best on some shitty AoBR marines, but 'lo and behold, none of the paints except Abbadon Black want to go over the metallic paints at all and even then, they don't really want to go over Abbadon Black

Coverage is streaky and breaks apart regardless of the level of thinning and layers I seem to play with - what the fuck do I do? In future I can just hold the pauldrons off, spray and do them separately, but the new 8th box is all snap fit

TL;DR, how can I get colours to sit over Leadbelcher/Ironbreaker without going to shit?

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>>53423066
that's enough for today.
going to finish them off with some shading and highlight tomorrow

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>>53419560
Grots and Boyz get Agrax and Nuln for a scruffy look, Nobz and Bosses get Biel Tan and Drakenhof for a much stronger green.

Speakin of Boys, how's mine?

I want to add some curved plating to one of my conversions. Can you mould plasticard into a curved shape, or get a suitable material that you can?

>>53429946
I love pale orc/ks. There's something much more monstrous feeling about them that way.

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How did I do, /tg ?

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>>53430572

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>>53430572
>>53430596

>>53430572
>>53430596
Pretty damn good, from what I can see.

>>53427237
I really like the bone color. skirt doesn't look bad, but it's tonally a bit close to the orange, and the highlights in particular just kinda meld with the orange cloth and copper metal of the charm thing. On the other hand, I'm not sure how a cool color would work, it has a nice sort of autumnal harmony at the moment

>>53428373
I'm loving the purple!

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Bug shell tyranid anon has returned

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>>53430741
This time with even more successful bug shell look

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>>53430778
Now there are two of them

>>53430786
Subtle colors, but still interesting. I like the gloss coat.

>>53430836
Thanks. My whole goal was to make them look shiny and slimy. Like nasty critters from outer space with dark coloration

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>>53430957
>My whole goal was to make them look shiny and slimy. Like nasty critters from outer space with dark coloration

The only good bug is a dead bug!

>>53430957
I'd say you did a pretty good job then

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>paint most parts seperately
>put grenades on belt
>can't fit arms the way I want because grenades are in the way
REEEEEEEEEEEE

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>>53431120

I know those feels, anon.

I did *SO* *MANY* test fits with Brother Cringer here, trying different heads - even breaking and re-positioning his left wrist - until I finally settled on a Mk VI head as being the most dramatic. After everything was painted and I went to glue the head into place, I found it was such a tight fit that the upraised hand actually scraped the head down to the bare metal as I pushed it into place.

>>53414264
Pre-heresy sons of horus aka luna wolves.
Those are literally the grayest.

>>53430778
I like it, somwhere between xenomorph and a rhinoceros beetle

would purge

>>53430572
p. good mate

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Feels so good to take a break from the resin devil and work on some nice, hard, responsive, non-bubbly plastic.

Base layer done, now to build up the wraithbone and keep edging the blue lighter.

>>53431234
It's painful, going through so many steps to have nice miniatures and then fucking up due to some mistake one should see from the very start.

>>53431119
Good to hear. The first time I posted my initial attempt at this scheme I got shat on, couple of months ago

>>53431120
Minotaurs? Nice job on the bronze. Looks super smooth.

>>53431274
>I did *SO* *MANY* test fits with Brother Cringer here, trying different heads - even breaking and re-positioning his left wrist - until I finally settled on a Mk VI head as being the most dramatic. After everything was painted and I went to glue the head into place, I found it was su
The blue looks super smooth and lovely.
Nice work.

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>>53431384
Thanks anon. It's just Balthasar Gold as basecoat, a heavy drybrushing of Runelord Brass and Agrax Earthshade for shading all over the miniatures, obviously. And then another drybrushing with brass. The only thing they're missing are some fine highlights with silver on the edges.

And some heads. Which leads me to a question, actually. Should I rather go with the regular Space Marine heads, or pic related, the spartan helmets from Anvil?

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>>53431860
Personally I think the Anvil heads are a bit squat. The fail to capture the hellenistic feel.
The puppetswar ones are better in that regard imo, if you want that kind of helmet.

Regular old space marine heads look always good too though.
A compromise might be the khorne berserker heads with the eyeslits. Once you shave of the bunny ears, they look pretty cool on loyalists too.

/WIP/ I need guidance. I want to bend some metal minis into new poses, but am worried about damaging the detail work. Should I get the plastic grip pliers I found, or am I being paranoid and regular pliers would work just fine?

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My attempts at "lazy painting" to bang out my 200+ malitia renegades. Tabletop passable?

>>53432135
looks great anon

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>>53431423
Yeah, I'm really happy with how the blue is turning out. Only one more step after this, but the airbrush clogged up and it's late so I'm calling it a day.

Hey if my superglue exploded onto important parts for a plastic kit, how would I get the glue off if I couldn't get it off in time? Alternatively, anybody selling Avatar of Khaine bits for the Cauldron of Blood?

>>53432273
I've heard putting it in the freezer crystallizes superglue and allows you to just break it off.

>>53432103
Plastic grip, anon. White metal is usually pretty soft, and any details that stand out could easily be crushed if you just use a regular plier. You can try, but I wouldn't risk it, especially if it's an old miniature that might be out of production.

>>53432071
I guess I'll go with the regular heads then. I already have one of those spartan helmets with a crest and the spartan torso, which looks quite good combined with a cloak, powersword and all that stuff, but the one I tried with the spartan head and the regular SM torso looks a bit off. Good thing I only bought 40 of them

>>53432103
>I want to bend some metal minis into new poses
Beware that the more pewter is used in the alloy the more likely the minis are to break.
GW minis are mostly pewter. Usually that's a good thing. Unless you want to bend them.
>but am worried about damaging the detail work. Should I get the plastic grip pliers I found, or am I being paranoid and regular pliers would work just fine?
Whenever I had to bend something back in shape where I was worried about that I just folded a paper kitchen towel a few times until I had a thick layer of paper to protect uneven surfaces.

If you want to repose limbs or something you are probably better off just sawing in the back of the knee or the inside of the elbow if you want to bend them and then smooth that over with GS again.

>>53432103
I would just use my fingers where possible
needle pliers where fingers can't reach because round dents tend to be less visible than teeth marks
all in all it's pretty risky, I wouldn't start it if I weren't ready to fix them, soldering or otherwise - in my day I got a number of white metal gw minis really cheaply but they all had bits broken because they got bent and someone tried to straighten them one too many times. If you have a fine file, a soldering iron and some balls you can fix most damage.

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Anyone know if there are alternative top doors for the rhino if you use the razorback top panel? I was thinking about making circular doors from the square ones but i doubt it will look good

>>53414024
Lush green meadow with burnt / dead areas emanating from the hooves.

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Did the base coats for my first scion today. Well the torso at least. Still needs work but im pretty new st this so I was hoping I could get some pointers on what to do from here. I'm also debain't whether I want to make the face mask bronze or leave it this color. What do you all think?

>>53432550
is he CIA?

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Making progress. Slowly but surely.

Also, fuck lenses. They are the bane of my existence.

>>53432550
leave it white

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anyone want a shit ton of chaos bits and enough bodies and legs for 10 man squad and some old thousand sons marines

>>53432642
>some old thousand sons marines
yes

>>53432642

I like chaos bits

>>53432573

No, i just thought it was a nice color scheme, why? Did I ape the cia's colors on accident?
>>53432629

Leave the face mask white you mean?

>>53432573
>CIA
>>53432613
>bane
pottery.

>>53432550
Kind of hard to tell, what other colors do you plan to use on them?
Looks fine as is though.
Bronze pushed it further in a somewhat 'clerical' direction, while white/silver looks more like military outfit.

>>53432613
If you do the lenses before you do the freehand on the helmets you don't have to worry about cleanup so much. May make your life a bit easier.

>>53432653
>>53432659
Esdeathy
#6648 my discord

>>53432683
ive also got 30 forgeworld renegades and a daemon prince

>>53432613
Duncan painted them in some video by painting just a line of white in the middle, and then a thin layer of red glaze over it, to give the impression of glowing eyes. Didn't look too bad, and it's really easy to do.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_odi1c7ErCg&t=479s
At about 14:30 minutes you can see it.

>>53432550
He's a big guy.

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>>53432712
>for you

>>53432665
>do lenses first

That's what I started doing, and yea it did help. My problem is getting the second layer and dot right while keeping the black outline. I'm getting there, but there's just a lot of touching up. I can also kinda cheat with the paint because it doesn't have to be perfectly smooth because white is a bitch.

>>53432705

I thought about using the red glaze, actually, though I was using his other technique for lenses. I'll check this one out, thanks.

>>53432665

Honestly had just planned on white armor bluish grey fatigues and silver detailing. You think it looks alright? I've barely done anything honestly and I feel like it looks kinda shite.

>>53432777
could add a spot color.
Say you paint a red stripe over his helmet or add a logo to one of his shoulderpads.

The color combination you got so far is pretty solid, you just need something to make it up.
The thing about miniature painting that is often times looks like shit until you put the finishing touches on it, which magically makes it all come together.

Can be frustrating to get there though.

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Looking for advice on this here Tyranid Warrior, it's literally the first thing I've ever painted "properly" beyond some horrific base coated models I did when I was a wee lad.

Any advice welcome. I know the edge highlights aren't great, I wanted to get them a bit thicker so they'd stand out at a distance but they started to get messy.

>>53432841

I had been considering a red Cross along the right side of the chest. The scions are part of a crusade I'm making see. What do you think? Yeah or nea?

>>53432866
you're too hard on yourself, anon. looks great! i'd add some brighter oranges on the carapace highlights to make them stand out more

>>53432414
kromlech has some but they come with weapons and are around 13usd each

>>53432902
The cross is a neat idea.
The only possible problem with that may be that the rifles may sometimes cover that part, but I don't know where you are going with the conversion in that regard.

Either way, go for it.

I recently spent a lot of time staring at bloodbowl teams. They have some pretty cool markings all over. The numbers, chevrons, stripes etc.
Maybe you can find some inspiration there too.

>>53433087

The official GW highlight chart suggests wild rider red as my 2nd layer, should I stick with that or do you think there's another colour that would look better?

>>53430648
thanks, that's pretty flattering
I had this exact dilemma where I could either keep it this way and refine it, or :

-use a cool color and have it clash with the rest of the uniform

-tone down the highlights and in turn have it be a darker shade of red overall

I'm afraid the second option would mostly end up looking boring without the orange highlights

>>53433180

Thanks, I'll mess around and post the results.

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>>53413996
Just bought some models. I will save you poor ebay marines. I promise

People that have done Skitarii - any tips?

>>53433564
Paint it in layers. Dont assemble and paint. Paint and then assemble

Anyone know if the D&D minis need to be primed before painting or are they like bones minis and don't need priming?

>>53433418
pewter?

>>53433717
Yes

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>>53432613

>>53433737
godspeed then
looking forward to updates

>>53414264
might make a nice statue terrain piece

>>53433564

Do the inside of your cloaks and the legs before assembly or its murder.

What's a good alternative for snow on a model's base? I'm usually pretty good at cobbling together things for mini bases, but finding something that fine has been eluding me.

>>53433636
If you're talking about the Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures, they come pre-primed.

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VERY new to painting minis, and sorry for the shit lighting be gentle

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>>53433192
>The official GW highlight chart suggests wild rider red as my 2nd layer, should I stick with that or do you think there's another colour that would look better?

Wild Rider Red is brighter than Evil Sunz Scarlet, which is what I use to base my Blood Angels. I prefer it over the "proper" (but darker) Mephiston Red.

The next step up in my scheme is Troll Slayer Orange, which is very definitely orange, rather than red. You might consider mixing it with your red, though, if you wanted something in-between.

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>>53434184
Its supposed to be a helmed horror btw

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>>53433418
>Just bought some models. I will save you poor ebay marines. I promise

They're metal. Pull no punches.

>>53434194

Thanks, I'll pick up some wild rider red the next time I swing by my local store and start working on a second layer of highlights. Not sure how I feel about going all the way up to a distinct orange tho.

>>53434184

A good start. Adding a wash over the armour will give it some depth and of course, thinning down your paints with water is always a good habit to get into.

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Does anyone have a link to a blog or something where I can see more pictures of this? Was thinking of doing my own

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Which is better for my swarmlord?
"The Regular", "The Council", or "Clawface"

>>53434287
www.MiniPicsForAnts.com

>>53434349
2nd
I'm too drunk to really see what it is, but I like it more than the other 2
>>53434287
Best I can do is tell you its for a dude named Rich Grabski for his Dwarf Army, calls it the 'lead zepplin'

>>53434349
"The Council". It's way more interesting.

>>53434184
>be gentle

First ... did you undercoat this model? I honestly can't tell. If so, did you undercoat it with black primer? If not, you should have. Learn to plan ahead. Knowing that your model is supposed to look like a big suit of steel armour, black is the natural choice for underneath all that gunmetal.

Second, work on your brush control. You need to stay inside the lines more. This will come with time and additional practice.

I also am tempted to tell you to thin your paints, but having a closer look at some of those surfaces - especially the brown parts - makes me wonder what paints you are using. If you bought the cheap stuff, thinning your paint is not going to help enough. What kinds of paints are you using (acrylic? enamel?), and what brand?

>>53434349
Either regular or Clawface.
The council has potential but at the moment it just looks like some tiny heads plonked next to him

>>53434381
I primed it with white primer, and most of the detail paints are GW paints, the base coat was an grey acryllic I mixed from black and white paints my friend had, don't remember the brand. I'll keep thinning the paints in mind. As far as brush control goes, I'm working on it, no idea how people get such fine detail even with tiny brushes though. Like I said new to painting minis and I've never been much of an artist in general

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>>53434566
>I primed it with white primer, and most of the detail paints are GW paints, the base coat was an grey acryllic I mixed from black and white paints my friend had, don't remember the brand.

I specifically asked about the brown because it looks very much like the kind of effect you would get with a gloss enamel - the kind Testors sells in small glass bottles. That is not the kind of paint you want to be using.

If you have access to GW paints, then you should consider picking up a couple of their "Shade" paints for washes - Nuln Oil being the appropriate colour to use here on the steel, but Agrax Earthshade goes along with so much else, it's virtually required.

>I'll keep thinning the paints in mind.

Thinning, and also watching how much paint you get on your brush at once... but honestly, it doesn't look like that is a problem here.

>As far as brush control goes, I'm working on it, no idea how people get such fine detail even with tiny brushes though

Try this: rest your elbows on your work table, and brace your hands (often, I press the heels of my hands together) so you can increase stability while positioning the model closer to your face and maybe even your light source. I find this also ameliorates the problem of a sore neck caused by hunching over, looking down on my models as I paint them.

>>53433564
its fine to assemble them, just for the love of god dont glue them to a base, undercloaks are a nightmare

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I just finished some of my acolytes today, not sure if they turned out okay or if they are garbage? I think ive been looking at them for too long

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>>53434828

Why are they so ... shiny?

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Objective marker. Yes/No?

I'm gonna paint it as a chaos banner and probably put one of the gubbins on the right on it if I dedicate it to a god.

>>53434721
I think what you think is brown is the loincloth or whatever, its actually maroon and i made it with the same types of paints for the base coat

>>53434828. Some of the faces don't look like they've been washed or highlighted and lack depth. Other than that I'd say they're fine.

>>53434873
Looks good to me