/WIP/ - Work In Progress General

Guys I'm really bad at taking decisions. I want to start painting something warhammer from my grey armies. I'm a very slow painter as i paint mini after mini until they are well detailed. Choose:

-Night goblin army for AoS (moonclan grots)
-Tyranids for 8th edition (behemoth)
-40k orks for 8th edition (and which color scheme)
-space marines for 8th edition (ultramarines and deathwatch) (and no i don't care if they are marinelets)

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How's this look for a first time airbrush set-up? Do I need anything else besides pic related, a spraybox, and some paint?
Do I need to use airbrush thinner for my paint, or is just using water okay? I mainly use Citadel paints (non-air) and Vallejo surface primer. Can I these in my airbrush or do I need something else? I know GW makes an air range but I'm wondering if I can just convert my current non-air paints into air paints easily.

Reposting from last thread

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>>53305935
ORKS

>which color scheme
Custom clan. Paint them like frogs and toads and call them the WAAAGH FROGZ!!!

>>53305935
Choose most fun to you army, that's all.

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Sons of Horus WIP.

MkIII armour is hard to highlight but they're such nice models.
Think I'll go with black shoulders and gold trim for most of my army, makes the look less loyalist in my opinion.

Xth for holy shit how come no one told me that Reaper's Bones material is so rubbery.

Granted, it's not as bad as MageKnight's material, but this shit is fucking bendy.

>>53306000
well looks like your trips decided lad

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Does /wip/ like my Battle Sister?

>>53306152
Looks pretty good as far as those ancient sculpts go. It's really hard to make them look decent but you did a fair job on that front.

So how many of you make your own washes and do you got any recipes you suggest?

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Gettin this fucker done once and for all and using it once b4 8th drops in case no rules

I need some fukken help. Anyone one of you good at painting yellow? I cant make it look smooth on the figure. General tricks and tips are welcome

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Corrected photo( dam mobile)

>>53306613
yellow sucks

>>53306718
GET IT RIGHT YOU FUC omg that actually looks incredibly super cool.

>>53306152
>That guy who plays the ALL GURLZ army

>>53305949
I would drop the airbrush cleaner, personally; you certainly don't need it for acrylics if you're backflushing your brush regularly. Picking up a sonic jewelry cleaner down the line would probably be a good idea, though.

>>53306718
You may want to add some skulls to it.

>>53306858
Would probably help to say what to use instead of the cleaner; ammonia free glass cleaner. The stuff I buy is the Wal Mart brand "all natural" glass cleaner, but there's plenty of equivalents out there.

>>53306718
Chaos or Loyalist? Either way drill your barrels your heathen.

>>53306910
That's the enemy army's job

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>>53306613
Be sure to not get impatient and keep your coats thin try to start with a yellow primer or use an airbrush for base helps a ton if you want a quick and easy yellow you can prime white do a coat of white and then wash twice with a yellow wash but yellow in general is a bitch of a color in all applications pic related Is the wash technique

Thanks anon, I have primed the model gray and then I try to base it with averland sunset and it goes to hell. Should I try to build up the yellow with brown or so?

>>53307053
>>53307078
I meant to reply but alas, I am an idiot

>>53307053
>that yellow
Hey this is pretty go...
>that checkering
nevermind.

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this heat makes me want to die

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>>53306181
>all old metal sculpts are shit!

>>53307147
i assume the checking is WIP

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>>53306613
I don't really have any tips because I haven't ever painted yellow but I found this pic awhile ago you could use for reference.

>>53307281
Might want to tone down the blue on the tin bitz, otherwise they look damn good anon.
I hope these ladz are good in 8e, I really want to paint up a box of 'em myself but I can't justify it with how shit they in-game atm.

>>53307467
I never said that though. I'm fine with most old sculpts (hell, I even LOVE some) but a few just don't jive with me.
SoB, sadly enough, fall into the latter category. They feel iffy in terms of quality, especially compared to their contemporaries, and as such it's hard to make them look up to snuff compared to today's models.

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I bought these mummies because my group said we would start playing Mordheim but then Armageddon came out and everyone wanted to rather play that, so do you guys think I could somehow use these guys for a Armageddon?
They are still unassembled and unpainted?

>>53307564
>Showing a beginner, a shaded model
Mate, you don't trow a Van Gogh to a beginner.

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>>53306181

>Looks pretty good as far as those ancient sculpts go. It's really hard to make them look decent but you did a fair job on that front.

The STATE of this post

>>53306779

I asked if you liked the battle sister dipshit.

>>53307615
The blue's just a result of the way ink and metallic paint reacts to directed light and still photography. It's less stark in person.

And yeah, me too. Shotguns and boltguns are cool, but the worst possible loadout at the moment.

>>53307642


could count em as chaos cultists anyway

fits a nurgle theme, which is what everyone takes anyway

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How did I do with my Warboss? I have yet to base him, but I don't have any sand right now so that will have to wait.

>>53307727
Well they are still unpainted and unassembled.
Don´t know why I made a question mark there.
I would like to play guard the most, chaos would be ok too but I am not really a fan of Nurgle.
Was thinking of maybe kitbashing a bit for a more guardsy look, but I am not really sure how to do that and what bits to use.

>>53307821

Could use something to make him appear vibrant.
Something like a checkered panel.

>>53307821
drill the barrel, and do some highlights on the hair and symbol. Other than that it looks good.

>>53307971
That's a good idea. I'll check my transfer sheet to see if I have any in red.
>>53307992
I'll look into doing that, thanks for the input.

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>>53307679
>The STATE of this post

I think he was bagging particularly on the old Sisters' sculpts - about which many have complained over the decades - not *all* old sculpts in general. At least, I *hope* he was.

>>53305901
the OP pics keep getting better and better

How do I get my weathering powders to stick?

I've tried dabbing on white spirits or dusting with matte varnish but it still seems to kill the effect leaving the powder only visible in the recesses.

Do I just keep adding more powder and repeat the process?

>>53299280
>>53299290

Still waiting to find some good heada for the gals, but I'm proud of how they look so far.

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if I thinned down Stirland Mud, would it be the same roughly as Typhus Corrosion?

obviously it'd have the grit in it but that's ok.

>>53308617

Not even close, Stirland mud is a medium brown paint while typhus corrosion is a dark grey-brown wash.

>>53306613
hey bud heres the trick I know it sucks

1. you wanna paint everything thats gunna be yellow bleached bone first. (or a bleached bone equivalent)
2. then paint in many very thin coats, all of that bleached bone averland sunset.
3. then apply a yellow glaze of lamenters yellow to the area
4. Paint Yriel or whatever you want your main yellow color to be, over that.

>>53307821
Boring stock assembly.

Otherwise, echoing what others already mentioned.

>>53307078
If you started grey then you just have to bite the bullet and build up the averland and be sure to use thin coats and the next time use averland primer or a like kind of colored primer

>>53309017
It was from a push fit boxed set so I didn't really have any options other than what they gave me. I also don't have any green stuff.

>>53305949

Not this anon but does anyone have recommendations for an airbrush?
I'm a bit of a brand-whore so I'm okay with splurging for a good'un.

>>53307679
If im not mistaken those are sculpted by Kev Adams, correct?

>>53309134
>>53309092
>>53309074
I think the muscles stand out a bit too much for my taste but overall I quite like it, well done! I prefer actually red magnus. I dunno what GW was thinking, he's not called Magnus the Magenta ffs..

>>53309222
Thanks, and i agree... But most of the muscles will be hiden under the armour. Still wondering how to paint its wings

>>53305935
only input I can give is that I personally found painting black space marine armor mindnumbingly boring. So if you get around to marines do Ultramarines.
With glorious red bolters, flamer patterns on their plasma guns and checker on their jump packs. Danger stripes on power fists are obligatory.

>>53309064
>https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Eclipse-Action-Airbrush-Gravity/dp/B000BQKFAI
And
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001738DXU/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_x_tFiazbZPKKG1Z
get thrown around a lot as recommendations for a quality setup. If you shop around you can get the former for a good price (Hobby Lobby with a "x% off any item" coupon comes to mind).

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Aaaand done. Apart from the bases. And varnishing. And I might do a little touching up but probably not.

>>53309549
Oo I cut one of them off in the top pic. Whoops.

>>53307281
Your marines are smooth as fuck.

>>53309491
Do these coupons come easily to hand?

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>>53309549
nice

>>53309549
said it before, but it's always nice to see daemon armies that aren't monochrome

>>53309549
How did you do this?
Spray them white, then use washes?

>>53309549
Lookit all those quality painted daemon butts.

Good shit, man.

>>53306613

Base corax white, paint ushabti bone, wash recesses with aagrax, glaze with lamenters yellow over and over until you get desirable yellow

>>53309054
It's not hard to customize a shoota, klaw, or banner.

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>>53309847
White, pink, blue and yellow then a wash then glazes.

>>53309959
>>53309823
>>53309750
Thanks chaps the butts are the best bit.

>>53309665
I think you can get them online. They're not hard to find when they go up. It's usually in a banner at the top.
They work for online purchases too, don't worry.

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>>53309220

Definitely, he is the goblin master.

He goes to the Oldhammer event weekend near Nottingham, for a £5 donation to charity he will sculpt any face onto whatever miniature you bring.

Poor guy got randomly attacked in his own home and beaten up badly last year, had to spend a bit of time resting but I think he's on the mend.

>>53306071
nice shade of green, mind sharing how you did it?

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>>53310587
>Poor guy got randomly attacked in his own home and beaten up badly last year

I remember that. It sucks that there is human trash in the world that somehow thinks this kind of behaviour is acceptable. A similar thing happened to George Harrison in 1999.

>>53310103
<3

>>53310587
The faces he made for orcs and goblins truly catch the sense of the older editions of Warhammer: Dark humor, adventure and madness

>>53307147
ya they are bad but it was my first atempt at freehanding anything like 2 years ago

>>53310103
<3

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>Two questions:

One: What would be a good set of feathered wings to graft onto an Ogroid Thaumaturge to make it into a Tzeentch daemon prince? Are there any kits with Lord of Change-like wings without having to buy and cut up an actual LoC?

What's a good way to make a Lord of Change looking Daemon Prince without someone mistaking it for a LoC? Besides the Ogroid thing I'm already doing. I'm bored of the derpy normal daemon princes, I want something that looks more tzeentchy but is clearly not a greater daemon.

>>53311240
>wings
Dark Eldar Scourges

>not-LoC tzeentchy
Just break down the LoC into different aspects (eg. "birdy", "vulture neck", "bipedal") and remove one or two of those. The Ogroid is not birdy, for instance. You could also focus on the weird/cosmic aspect and make a giant faceless daemon prince with stars/moons around where its face should be. Maybe give it bird wings instead of daemon wings as well.

>>53311450
Is the Ogroid really that small/Scourge wings that big?
Solid tips. Thank you very much, anon!

On a side note, would I be able to splice Kairic Acolyte bitz into chaos cultists/traitor militia and not have it look weird? Can someone tell me if they're around the same size?

>>53306613

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_XqLR2orls

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A89Z5Ogu0Qc

>>53310625

Thanks man, the green was pretty simple.

>Incubi Darkness basecoat
>Kabalite Green layer
>Kabalite + Sybarite Green mix 50/50 layer
>Coelia Greenshade painted into recesses
>Sybarite Green highlight
>Gauss Blaster highlight on the finest edges

The Gauss Blaster green could be substituted for Sybarite Green with sole white added to it.

>>53311590
acolytes are pretty beefy dudes, but it should be workable

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>>53305901
I'm painting blueletters for a friend. How am I doing /WIP/?

Right now I need something to do to the face, any suggestions?

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>>53311747
Another side

>>53311726

Some*

Not sole

>Want to make display board
>don't have room in my home to make a 6x4 gaming table
>don't see any practical use in it
>know I'll have fun but then it'll sit around collecting dust.
I have this problem where if I can't use it on the tabletop there's no reason for me to make it. Please help me overcome this autism or whatever it is

I figure you guys might know about this stuff: I'm looking to cast some Dungeon tiles for my d&d campaigns. I was looking into Hirst molds, and wondered if anyone here had suggestions for dental / flow stone to order, and good places to get it.

Mostly just wondered if there were any tricks or relatively good sources of info on the topic that are up to date.

>>53311747
paint the face white like a freaky skull mask, if not i'm sure it'll look better once you get the details like the eyes and teeth in

>>53311912
Make a display board that also functions as an army carrying tray.

they're convenient to have in tournaments

>>53311950
Yeah. I'm wondering if I should do the eyes in green or another color

>>53312103
either orange to match his lumps, or green to match the tongue.
I don't really like the green so I'd say orange

>>53305935
If for some reason I would be only limited to those options I would do tiranids. At least I will have fun doing them and maybe they will be fun to play too

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>>53312092
>Make a display board that also functions as an army carrying tray.
>they're convenient to have in tournaments

Instinctively, my brain says, "man, this is stupid! If I trip, fall or otherwise happen to drop that display board, there go all my valuable models and all my hard work!"

Tell you what, though, I actually *have* been doing this lately, and it saved me from the *other* catastrophe: picking up your miniatures case when you forgot to latch it closed. I did this a few weeks ago, and as aggravating as that was, almost all of my nicely-painted models were safe on the display board! Repairs consisted of nothing more than gluing half-a-dozen arms back on.

>>53312563
I've been toying with the idea of making a display board, I'd magnetize everything to minimize damage from dropping.

>>53312598
>I'd magnetize everything to minimize damage from dropping.

It also helps during transportation. A lot of my models are metal, and tend to fall over when jostled too much - like during the 30 minute car ride to my FLGS. Inside some of the holes I sunk in the board are steel washers, and the heavier models (metal heavy weapons, jump packs, etc.) get neodymium magnets glued to the underside of the bases, so they stick when placed in the proper slot.

>>53308551
Bump

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>>53312809

How about Victoria?

>>53312838
I intended to get those heads, actually! I just want some critique on the color scheme.

>>53312866
I'd go in for some brighter highlights. Make the gold and white really pop through the grunge.

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>tfw you know this guy is inevitably going to break some point but didn't bother with pinning any of it

Hope I actually paint this dude, he deserves it.

>>53312563
>or otherwise happen to drop that display board
that's why you use a wooden base+frame and add some secure (preferably metal) handles on the sides

Some people go all the way and make what's basically an upside-down box, so the terrain has no chance of being damaged while being transported.

>>53313051
Seems like an easy job. Just lots of drybrushing, I'd assume.

>>53311747

use a wash

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>>53313164

I'm torn, been looking at schemes and some are like that, whilst some pick out every sinewy branch and vine and it looks better for it.

>>53313256
The rocks would likely look better for the drybrushing. I'd do the plant matter first, either brush or airbrush, and then go over and drybrush the rocks for a craggy effect. Then all the little fine details.

You thinking something swampy or more vibrant? Older/rotten or fresher/bloodier?

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I hope you boys have been following the golden rule

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Working on Dark Eldar with color-shifting paint. Thoughts?

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Just painted my first minis, some Reaper Bones. Did they come out ok?
I kinda like the material. Bendy as hell, but they seem kinda noob-friendly.

Is it okay to paint over a thin, single layer base coat that I'm unhappy with with a new color, or should I really strip the model? Thanks in advance!

>>53306081
Did you not read any reviews? Because that news is all over the reviews. I hope you didn't spend too much on Bones minis.

>>53314272
>actually looks really fucking cool
More?

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>>53314282
Just realised the pic looks like it was taken with a potato. Here's a close-up of the lil' guy.

>>53314347
The fuck is he holding? A Big Hunk or a ZERO bar?
Just taking the piss, he looks pretty ok. I feel like he needs a wash or something though. His face is pretty one note in terms o' color.

>>53314448
Yeah, thought so. I'm just afraid I'll make a mess since my hands are kinda shaky.
And you got me, ya sneaky bastard.

If I want to start an army, how difficult will deathwatch be for a first-timer to paint? However, I have decent experience with painting in general, I've just never painted minis before.

>>53314607
not hard. black is pretty fucking easy

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>>53314260

>>53314607
Wouldn't be my first pick, since you need to paint several different colors in close proximity, and need to have color supplies for all the different chapter shoulders. Still pretty interesting and fun though, if you're genuinely looking to enjoy the painting.

>>53311747

Bluedletter.

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>>53314607
>I have decent experience with painting in general, I've just never painted minis before.
Mini painting is a ways different from normal painting but as long as your brush control carries over it shouldn't be too hard to pick up.

As for Deathwatch, they might not be TOO hard. Mostly black, which can be pretty easy to do right, but with a lot of little bitz and bobbles on them, making for a lot of detail work. If you can handle the detail work, I'd say go for it.

Deathwatch are only like $35 for 5 which isn't too bad as far as 40k models go. Not a huge loss if you fuck up. I lost $60 dollar worth of Terminators learning how to paint myself, pic related.

>>53314347
He looks OK, but like >>53314448 said, he could probably use a wash, maybe even all over. If you thin your wash down first, you might be able to get away without highlighting back up afterward.

>>53314795
>is this enough to put in a dreadnought?
>brothers?

>>53314886
Thanks, I'll definitely try that!

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>>53314308

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How do i stop buying shit when i haven't even completed my current projects? This is getting pretty serious guys.

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>>53315235

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>>53315265

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Honest opinion on my attempt at a more complex conversion? Still has a long way to go and im replacing the corpse pole with a skaven bell banner

>>53315240
You can't. Welcome to hell.

>>53315500
I like where it's heading, the arm looks kind of silly but I don't think there's anything wrong with that, it's definitly looking nice and nurgley

>>53315500
Kind of hard to see what details might be on the upper arm. I'd recommend sculpting some finger/toenails. Also be ready to make the large, flatter surfaces interesting when you finally paint. If you don't create some visual interest the parts might not look like they fit together.

But I like it! It's creative and gross, and gives the unit some character.

>tfw you knock your knife off of the desk and it embeds itself in your foot.
Oww

>>53315617
How exactly do you sculpt finger and toe nails? I had thought the same thing myself

>>53315240
You have two options
>develop a sense of self-control
>score some Ritalin and complete your backlog with the newfound focus

>>53306613
Don't use the GW yellow, it's trash, and yellow's usually a shitty color to be painting in. I start with a white base, use a light orange undercoating, and then drybrush yellow over it, but I'm also generally painting hair, you should be able to get away with just drybrushing yellow on.

>>53307821
Take a brighter green (like whatever the current goblin green is) and lightly drybrush/highlight all the raised areas of it's flesh.

>>53315755
I got so much more done this year since I started drinking coffee every morning. Stimulants for the win.

>>53306718
I have exactly the same glue and I thought it was a local-only brand, what region do you live in anon?

>>53305901
About to buy Custodes off of ebay but for 35 bucks but the price seems suspiciously low. How can you help against being ripped off or getting fake shit?

Also, can you arrange a Custode to hold the banner in one hand and a sentinel blade in their left hand?

>>53314305
Less than $30, as I just needed models for conversion parts.

There aren't many options for parts to make short or nonadult human characters for 28mm.

>>53316041
Pls respond. If I can't have a Custode with a banner and sword at the same time I might not buy them at all

>>53316297
you can, yes.

>>53316333
Fuck YES

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You may haz been askin yurself, "where iz Groin Kikka?" Well ladz, I haz been muckin about, neglectin da boyz. Da spirit of Mork (or Gork) entered me today and I started working on dis git. Just a few more bits and some ruffin up to do and jobs a good 'un!

>>53308551
Have you looked at Anvil Industry range for heads?

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More progress on Alarielle, the feathers still need more shading/highlighting.(also missing the seconds half of the wings at the moment because they get in the way)

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Whats the general opinion on mixing a single colour for shades and highlights?

Like taking a green, then mixing a bit with white to make the highlight. Or mixing a bit with black if you want to darken an area.

Are there any significant reasons besides convenience that most the tutorials use a totally separate color for this purpose?

>>53317233
sometimes i'll do that, more often than not though just adding white for a highlight doesn't actually look that nice, things get washed out and sort of muted looking.

>>53306152
great brush work and highlights but i have no idea what is up with that helmet thing shes got going on, guess its the sculpt

>>53317258
I see, guess its not a safe option to cut down on buying 2-3 pots for each color you want covered.

>>53315265
>>53315285
how tf u do that?
also looks like some of your paint is too thick, like the eyes and gun

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>tfw paint can easily be scraped off with fingernail with little to no effort
what the fuck man : (

>>53317233
>Whats the general opinion on mixing a single colour for shades and highlights?

I'm in favor of that method, but... I probably wouldn't be adding white or black to green and definitely wouldn't suggest that method for all colors.

>Are there any significant reasons besides convenience that most the tutorials use a totally separate color for this purpose?

Consistency. Those videos are typically aimed at newer painters, right? Well, a new painter isn't as experienced in mixing paints and might want to totally replicate the paint scheme.

>>53317549
Consistency in replicating the paint color and in using it to do an entire army honestly. If you're gonna mix your own highlights and shades you'd better be doing a huge amount of it to batch paint the entire army because otherwise you absolutely will fuck that mixture up. From that standpoint it's better to just buy the shade or highlight color in a bottle to keep your entire army consistent.

>>53317549
>>53317605
That makes sense. Im new to painting but the tutorials bother me cause some of the highlighting seems like it has too much contrast to the base.

Ill probably experiment and see how it works out. Maybe make good mixes noted down or in new bottles.
Just a shame that there isnt an easy shortcut to avoid spending too much on a bunch of different paints.

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For those who've used other manufacturers model kits for warhammer vehicles (orky conversions in this case as i'm planning on making a trukk with a german halftrack kit by tamiya.) What do you do when it comes to rubber treads? Is it okay to prime/paint them(I'm assuming not.) if so, do you just leave them off until after all that's over and then put them on? Also, if it is'nt wise to prime/ paint them, how do you go about weathering them? (Just to get like a slight dirt/dust effect.)

Strangely, i've had little luck looking up on how I should handle something like this, figured this would be the place to ask.

>>53316776
This guy vs. Sherbet nurgle guy who wins
keep in mind nurgle guy has prep time

>>53317476
I just had to fix a dude I did the same thing to. Now I'm not going to look at the last squad I finished until I can varnish them.

>>53317321
You can still mix colors, but for green try something like yellow instead of white for the highlights. Mix brighter, warmer colors for highlights and darker, cooler colors for shades. White and black should rarely be used.

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I'm hoping someone with a little more experience with the Imperial Guard line can help me on this.

I'm looking to start an army made entirely from Victoria Lamb's not-Cadians because goddamn are the Cadians (and the Cattys, as well) awful.

My question is: how out-of-place will Imperial Guard advisers (like the Fleet Officer, the astropath, etc) look next to her sculpts? Are they made to look good next to Cadians or are they, you know, actually done well?

This might belong in 40k General but since it deals with the actual mechanical thing-in-itself models I'm going to post it in DIY.

This is probably a dumb question, but whats the best way to prime/paint a bunch of Marine shoulders and heads? I'm working on Calth marines and assembled the full Marine with a magnetized gun and left those bits off, and I've never tried that before. Now, I realize I'm not sure how. I'm using Krylon grey primer and then a coat of chaos black because night lords.

>>53318159
personally i just plastic glue a piece of sprue onto a connection point and prime and paint it from there then pop the sprue off, clean up the area if i need to, then assemble the model
its not really efficient and you waste a tiny bit of glue in the process but i prefer to paint that way

another way ive seen people do is drill a tiny hole in a connection point, blue tac a paper clip in the hole, and put the paper clip on a cork top and prime and paint it like that

>>53318140
>used with permission
>used without permission
died

>>53306779

What is it with sisters players.

Every single one i have come across is more annoying then ork players that scream WAAAAGH!!!! every fucking time they charge.

Either lard ass neckbeards that play SOB because it gets them off or lanky ass little twigs that invision getting assraped by their sister superiors strap on.

>>53318140

Goddamn, I love that female sculpt. It's decidedly female without going cheesecake, she's wearing the same shit as everyone else, and she's ready for war. I would totally start a guard army with those models (male and female).

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>>53318213
forgot pic oop

>>53318213
>drill a tiny hole in a connection point, blue tac a paper clip in the hole, and put the paper clip on a cork top and prime and paint it like that

Exactly what I do, love it.

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>>53306181

The old sculpts aren't so bad. I've gotten enough of them over the years.

>>53318265
First off, that wasn't a sisters player you were responding to, just a shit poster. Secondly, good luck finding an actual sisters player irl. I've been playing mine for 10 years now and have personally met 2 other people who play sisters. Two. That leads me to assume you're just making shit up, but if you're not, I'm sorry they're insufferable.

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>>53315500

>>53318347

There is a twig in my local group
A lard ass in the group a town over that i venture to for tourneys once in a blue moon.

There are several at adepticon and other big cons.

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Well the Internet on the computer kept fucking up because it started to rain so I made minor progress painting dudes and filling gaps on an Epidemius I intend to paint someday. Here's a pic of the gang so far.

>>53318289

I'll have to try that then

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I backed Kingdom Death Monster on Kickstarter, but the wait for it to ship was just way too long and arduous to endure. So I bought Allison the Twilight Knight from the KD:M store and painted her up. What do you guys think? I tried to make the sword look ghostly or ethereal, but I'm not very happy with it.

>>53316776
I honestly think that the shading on her leg is too stark but looks fucking lovly otherwise.

>>53317233
Adding white to a colour doesn't make it a lighter shade of the same colour. That's sadly not how (acryllic) paints work.

>>53319240

nice, anon

Is a bead box a good investment for storing bitz? Currently I'm cutting my models off sprues and bagging them by box for moving soon and I can't really afford to moving boxes + waste material. Also quick and easy projects for sprues. I was thinking grinding them up for dust and concrete debris and other terrain parts.

>>53317476
Did you prime it? With a spray can that specifically said 'primer'? A regular can of spray paint won't do the job, it has to be a primer.

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>>53319240
Looks like you could do with a bit more recess shades and highlights.

Also, the face/ eyes are goddamn terrifying.

>>53319360
I have a bunch of these sorting boxes for nails, screws and stuff like that from a diy/hardware store.
bead box sounds like it does the same but could be more expensive due to the 'arts and crafts tax' these kind of hobby things usually have.

The good thing about these kind of boxes is that it is easy to store several boxes worth of troops in one of those things, once you go the bits off the sprues.

Is there stuff you guys do in the lead-up to moves or when you know you can't complete models? Right now I'm just trying to make space and get things done but I don't want to start builds because I know they'll end up taking more room and be a bitch to move. I've heard some people mention priming on sprues, cutting and then just storing stuff ready to build but I dunno how legit that is since I've heard arguments for an against priming or painting on sprues.

>>53319402
Yeah a sound buy then, I'll start shopping around for a big one.

>>53319488
Priming on sprues is one of the stupidest things you can do because there is no way to clean mold lines or sprue nubs if you do.

>>53319488
I moved last november.
I put everything in boxes. Now I don't exactly know anymore where any of my thousand of minis are, but at least I was able to start with relatively clean slate and by that I mean a tidy desk.
I'll just take it from there and try to work through my backlog one project at a time.

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I finished my Arkanaut Frigate. Took me like 4 days to finish.

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>>53319656
Closeup of the endrinrigger. I've left him loose so I can move him around.

>>53316776
That is an excellent winged thigh lady.

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>>53319667
Some of the art on the bow. I wanted to make the base look like they were floating over a cloud-covered mountain top.

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>>53319683
Finally, the other side.

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>>53318284
Victoria Lamb is very good. If I were a richer man I'd spend hundreds of pounds on those guard squads.

It was a nice surprise to realise that she's a Golden Daemon vet and was responsible for this masterpiece.

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After wet mixing some different greens I finally got a few I like.
Now It's time to try it out on the rest of the kill team.

>>53319707
I like it!

>>53311240
put him on a disk

>>53319656
>>53319667
>>53319683
>>53319692

Very cool.
Fan of the base, helps "lift" the whole thing :P

>>53319703
she's a hobby legend, dude.
She basically invented OSL with her 'saving of sister what's-her-face' diorama.
She was frequently featured in WD too.

>>53319734
Thanks man. I was most nervous about the base. I've never used cotton wool as clouds before - I was worried it would look "cheap". That said, as far as I can tell it's still the best way to make model clouds!

>>53319667
i think you could do some more work on the brass and the struts just look unpainted, but everything else is great and i love the clouds

>>53319752
>tfw no smoke machine in your display cabinet

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>>53319707
you can try spongeing as well as layering, i found it works well with nurgle

>>53319763
I know those feels bro.

>>53319756
I am considering adding some oxidation to the brass, but I need a rest from this thing. It's taken me so long to make.

>>53319772

Ohhh, I gotta try that.
A while ago my girlfriend gave me her old makeup applicator when I busted out all my painting stuff.
I didn't even thing about that until now.
(Will wash it first)
*thumbs up*

>>53317865
I usually avoid using the rubber treads whenever possible, and make my own. If you are going through the trouble of modifying a Tamiya kit, spend the extra few minutes and make some chunky treads. There are plenty of tutorials out there. If you are going to use the rubber, a light coating of brown spray paint and some rust/dirt pigments will look ok. Dull coat and don't try to mess with them too much after. The rubber has enough grip to hold onto the paint, but too much flexing will still pop off tiny bits.

Painting an orc blood bowl team. Could gold weapons/metal work, or is that unorky? The rest of the uniform is purple, black, and khaki.

>>53320161
I'd go more for a brass or bronze (for that sweet verdigris around the rivets) look, but in the end it's entirely up to you. Gold is as good as any other color.

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Got my basecoat down for my Fireblade. Trying to see if the colour combos mesh well and also to see if they make the chest look not too big. Cape will be cream coloured ala Cypher. Thoughts?

>>53320231
>and also to see if they make the chest look not too big
I don't think the paintjob is gonna help with the chest looking too big. It's easily twice as big as a normal tau torso.

Just got my first kit with actual options and choice of parts.
Is there anything where I can figure out what I want online and put it together before I start clipping and gluing?

I'm pretty sure I've got what's what on the sprue sorted and how it connects, but it would be nice to see an actual representation first.

>>53320268
most kits either have assembly instructions on the box or a pamphlet in the box.
Most people just dryfit the parts or look at assembled models, I don't think there really is a big demand for virtual assembly first.

What is the kit you are working on though?

>>53320261
Yeah but so is the official Fireblade. That said, I think I'll try filing at least the front down to be more angular than rounded as it is now. Find something to attach to the torso like a tassel. I can't sculpt for shit so I honestly don't know a way out of this problem aside from just filing it down.

>>53320299
Wyches.
Looking at the box is how I've sorted out how it goes together, and it doesn't seem too complicated. I just don't wanna mess up with anything.

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Finished about what I can finish until I get heads and shoulders done. Time for the next one.

>>53320314
Dunno man. A Tau torso with catachan arms or something like that would have gotten the message across just as well, imo.
The official model also has additional armor on the legs, so it kind of balances it out.

>>53319667
>>53319756
I agree with this anon on the struts. Also there is a bit of over spray on the ship from your white shine on the windows. Besides that, it looks really nice, anon. The cotton as clouds looks quite convincing and really shows the fantasy behind the Kharadron.

>>53320367
I guess you're right but again, my sculpting skill is nada. I'll have to hope filing it down gets the point across.

Thing is, I like him as is but the thread and friends telling me its too big made me see it as too big as well. Fug

>>53319656
Looks great, what did you use for the clouds on the base?

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>>53314260
Wank after painting a model to reward yourself?

>>53314647
MFW people are still posting my image!

>>53320447
Thanks man. I am glad you guys like the clouds.

>>53320231
Looks like garbage.

>>53318140
It's a shame that her miniatures cost more then Forge World.

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Started working on some havocs recently, and right after I finished two autocannons made from heavy bolters I got a set of FW "Legion Autocannons" for very cheap from some guy who sold off a bunch of his CSM stuff. Does it look too out of place to have them in the same squad?

>>53320231
Wtf is that "sculpt"?

>>53320687

£43 (DKoK Squad) is like $56. That's more than hers ($50).

That being said, I'll probably just go with Mad Robot, they have a carapace armored squad for 40, I'll pay 10 bucks over Cadians for a squad, 20 is a little much.

Plus DKoK is over-hyped trash.

>>53320231
Is that some sort of modified Crisis Suit chest part? Not sure what you were going for anon, but that chest piece is just too big.

>>53320231
Never skip leg day.

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>>53320364

The painted squad. I'll get head and shoulders for them done eventually.

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>>53321657
paint during assembly

>>53321657
Depends on how much of a pain it would be. If you CAN paint the parts together, then do, but if not then do sub-assemblies.

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>>53321657
>Paint before assembly or assemble before painting?

As much fun as >>53321958 is having, he's on the right track.

It's often best to paint in sub-assemblies. For example, on a Space Marine, you might glue the legs to the torso, and *maybe* the arms, but paint everything else separately, only gluing the remainder together at the very end and then touching up.

Look at this example. In the foreground are a pair of single-piece casting marines. The best I can do with them is paint their backpacks separately. For multi-part plastic models, though, you can see where I've left off not only the backpacks, but the heads and shoulder pauldrons as well. The company champion was a special case - I even separated the torso from the legs to get his loincloth painted right.

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What are good value bundles to buy besides "Start Collecting" for a Tzeentch Daemons army+allies?

Are there some Thousand Sons units that are very valuable to lists? CSM or Renegades&Heretics units?

>>53322077
Should I invest in a fuckton of Horrors?

>>53321657
Assemble and then paint, if your brush can't reach an area another persons eyes probably can't at 3 feet away on the table.

Now if you're painting something to a super high standard you want to paint in sub assemblies if it's really hard to reach.

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>>53322085
always

>>53322077
Hard to tell right before 8th, but I'm just slowly working on my TS army anyway. Horrors and heralds will probably always be relevant though we don't know how/ if summoning is going to work.

>>53315285
>>53315265
>>53315235


I question the thickness of the paint on that model or the quality of your camera. Both is my guess.

You really need something to make the plates separated, ether by dropping a line highlight across every bladed edge like typical GW, or throwing a wash of some color into the cracks so we can tell any sort of definition. The result is cool, but it could be refined before i would call it something really magical.

>>53322175
From what's been said summoning is probably not going to be giving you free daemons any more. Points must be set aside for summoning before the game, and they're spent whenever you summon something. What it allows you to do is be flexible in what you spawn onto the table.

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Do you have to do anything special when using brushes that have been in storage for a while?

I've got a set of W&N brushes that have been in a draw for a year unused (though they were used intensively and cleaned using master's soap before that), should I do anything particular before I start using them again of will they be fine with just a wash and condition?
Cheers.

>>53319752
>Cotton
I fear that the dust will set in eventually runinig the whole thing. Good luck, anon

>>53319656
>>53319667
>>53319683
>>53319692
the cloud base is great. i still don't really like the runes tho....and the gold is very flat. you could put a wash over it that would do wonders.

>>53318741
this picture looks like it was taken in my apartment complex

>>53319707
which green is that?

>>53322977
>>53319707
or rather what did you mix to achieve that?

>>53315500
KANEDAAAAAAAAA!!

>>53306981
It has a mark of Khorne near the base of the tower and there's demon faces on the top so i'd say Loyalists.

>>53311747
Man, the new Ultramarine Primaris look great!

>>53323167
You're blind. That's a goddamn disguised Dark Angel.

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SoS WIP, still need to do hair, skin and blades. I am pretty pleased with the red, the armour not so much, but what do you think so far?

>>53306181
Err... as far a SOB sculpts go.... that's a new(-ish) one. The old ones never had Storm Bolters.

>>53323275
the armor is a bit dull but i kind of like it. if you make the blades really punchy it could work but otherwise you'll have to try and kick it up. i like the way the pale skin looks, whatever color you choose to paint it i would suggest keeping it pale.

overall these are amazing.

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For the anon a couple of archived threads back that was looking for a source of jump packs in the style of the metal raptors, Maxmini just posted these up, they're a bit closer than the Kromlech ones.
http://maxmini.eu/conversion-bits/torsos-and-arms/storm-talon-jump-packs-bits

>>53319996

Alright, thanks for the advice. c:

>>53323476
Thank you! Didn't want to make a too bright gold, but yeah, turned out too dull.... what you think, silver or blue power weapon style blades? Yes will definitely go with pale skin!

>>53323275

I dont think armor is bad, while not shining gold it looks bronze and it has a refreshing look to it.
What colors did you use?

>>53323746
Not that guy but i never liked light effects on the miniatures. However you do it looks fake and cartoony. So go for silver without blue effect.

>>53305949
you can use regular citadel paints in an airbrush, though you have to thin them down to a milk like consistency, Grab a bottle of flow aid as well and some drying retarder. these will help both your airbrush and your brush painting as well

>>53323942
tbf though some of them apply like shit.

>>53323942

NO! dont do this.
It is not worth the effort, it takes too much meddling and your airbrush will clog after a few passes and you will have to constantly try and clean it.
Just buy vallejo (normal paints not airbrush range) and thin it with vallejo thinner.

>>53305949
You can thin with water but beware as minerals or contaminants in the water can react with your paint. Buy purified deionised water at the very least, or just stump for the airbrush thinner you cheapo, one bottle lasts years.

Also citadel paints aren't so good for airbrushing, GW paints often have a higher pigment concentration than other paints and it will clump on the tip of your airbrush. Vallejo paints are good for thinning or just save the hassle and buy pre-mixed Vallejo air paint.

Can I use any brand of spray paint as my primer?

Got two cans of flat black. The brands are Canbrush and Storm. Anyone here have any experience with these brands or know more about them?

My local shop is out of Citadel spray and there's no ETA on the restock.

>>53323829
Yes on the photo its more of a bronze, Auric Armour Gold with Runefang Steel a hint of Caliban Green and some Balor Brown after that i Drybrushed it with some Agrax mixed with Nuln

>>53324489
sry meant dryburshed it with some Runefang and Auric, afte rthat wash of Agrax and Nuln

>>53324339
Only use spray specifically designed for miniature painting, otherwise it will likely fill up all the detail and leave you with a horrible blobby model, and even if it doesn't there's no guarantee your brush paint will then adhere to it.

>>53323859
Now that you mentioned it, it has a cartoony touch. maybe some edge highlighting with silver?

>>53324510

Hmm, okay thanks for that reply. I think I'll just stay away from these sprays then, maybe just get the primer paint instead if the cans aren't in soon.

>>53324538
Cant go wrong with the classic.

>>53322811
As long as the bristles didn't get bent you should be golden. If they did, conditioning might fix it.

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>>53305901
kitbashed jade wizard, because fuck paying 20 bucks for a heal support

>>53322981
Base green is a one to one of Averland Sunset & Stegadon Scale Green.
The light green is a three to one of Flash Gitz & Stegadon Scale Green.
Then highlights of Averland Sunset/Lamenters Yellow glaze.

>>53318140
>Dreamforge Games
>used with permission
>Games Workshop
>used without permission

heh

>>53325453
Love it, really nice!

>>53325453
mate, that is pretty damm cool!

>>53315240
just look at your bank account

>>53316776
Think you should restrain yourself more around knees and feet, which look a bit grotesque with such stark transitions. Looks great on the face though. overall excellent

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>>53315240
Oh I know your paint m8 but i-
>it's all plastic garbage
I'm not sorry for you. At all.
I can understand finding a box with some old school metal dudes inside and buying it on a whim, but hoarding massive amounts of plastic boxes? Really dude?

>>53322975
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZowK0NAvig

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>>53327325
>I can understand finding a box with some old school metal dudes inside and buying it on a whim

Happens to me all the time!

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>>53327596
>go into an old gaming store
>look at the shelves
>metal sternguard, vanguard, tyrannic war veterans, legion of the damned, metal grey knight terminators, metal everything
>it's still cheaper than the new plastic boxes
>buy ALL OF IT
>barely be able to afford food for the rest of the month

It is a good pain.

>>53320849
Nah looks fine

>>53327596

Pete is that you?

Any tips for rebar sticking out of broken concrete? I was thinking paper clips, but I'm concerned primer might not stick to metal that smooth. Haven't actually tried it yet though.

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>>53305901
Okay, I have a couple of questions. I painted my first marine, and apart from not quite understanding just how much I needed to thin my paints, or how much I need to buy a better desk lamp and magnifying stand for my poor eyes, two things stand out.

I ended up disliking the original color I intended to paint my army, Hoeth Blue, as I looked like The U.N Marines. That said, I messed around and found that a 2:1 ratio of Hoeth Blue to Leadbelcher really produces a sort of steely air-force blue that I quite like. Would I be able to get that just by painting a thin base of leadbelcher and then layering on Hoeth blue, or should I mix beforehand? And the second question is about thinning, I was going with a brush of paint and mixing that on the palette with a brush of water, but it still seems too thick. How do you guys thin your paints.

>>53327977
>Pete is that you?

Shhh! We're supposed to be anonymous here, remember?

>>53328088
>Would I be able to get that just by painting a thin base of leadbelcher and then layering on Hoeth blue

Do you want a metallic blue?

If so you can't paint on leadbelcher and then paint on blue, because it'll just layer over the silver.

You could consider painting Leadbelcher and using a LIGHT wash of Drakenhof Nightshade

but if you want that blue metallic yes you can mix leadbelcher and blue but it might be hard to recreate in future.

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>>53327767
>walk into a store
>see pic related
>in foil
welp, there goes my fucking salary

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>>53305901
Painting a 3D Printed T-34

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>>53328182
Ya. I'm a little worried about recreating it to be honest. Pic related is it, the green is Caliban Green just to see if I would like it as trim to go with it.

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Which figure was used for the base in this piece?

>>53328425
That's some fine features. What printer, out of curiosity?

>>53328498
If I'm not mistake the body's from the new orruk shaman or whatever he's called now.
I'm not sure about the head though, looks chaosy.

>>53328289
>Chaos Wrrior Spearhead
>no warriors of Chaos

>>53328551
*mistaken,

>>53328498
body is from the orruk weirdboy or whatever, the new shaman

the head looks like the tzeentch sorcerer

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>>53328563
>no warriors of chaos

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>>53328513
This one was done on a UP.
You can get that on any printer that can go 0.1mm layer height.

It's being painted with the tiger. The lines on the tigers are going to be filled with some green stuff.

>Not painted for years but a boardgame with miniatures gets you to do it again

I haven't activated these almonds for about 4 years, it's a bad feeling

>>53321315
Look at you, making progress. Nice.

>>53328790
I know this feel. I helped a friend by giving him basic painting lessons and and critique and am very slowly building up painted dudes again after a couple years.

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I need a dick in my ass so fucking badly right not.

>>53329064
oh shit wrong board

>>53329064
you are on the wrong thread then

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>>53329064
>>53329088
ok I chuckled

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>>53329064
what

>>53320314
The fireblade model is nowhere near that ridiculous

>>53329064
Well, that is a work in progress in a way. Have you thought about the colour scheme?

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>>53329226
>have you thought about the colour scheme

oh you cheeky fucker

>>53329226
kek

>>53329064
>>53329088
>>53329226
what the fuck is happening here

>>53329330
We are helping anon to work a penis up his ass.

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First time doing scenery, any advice here? Only been painting models since feburary so I think its not bad for now but can always use tips to improve.

>>53329064
Remember to apply the lube in multiple thin coats, it'll last longer than a single thick one.

>>53329399
Also, wash (afterwards) and (share) highlights.

>>53329366
>>53329399
>>53329484
I'm proud of you, you sick fucks.

>>53329064
these are the types who browse /wip/

>>53329064
Come to my place so I can remove your clothes from the sprue down and do multiple thin coats of semen on your face.

>>53329395
a good tip for archiving a quick, nice rust effect is to use Lamian Medium mixed with Troll Slayer Orange. it gives you a "smooth" rust, with less texture, so you can build upon it with every layer, if you wish.
it's good tho, what you're doing. Maybe add a bit more grime in some recesses, but otherwise it looks good so far!

>>53329964
Sounds good man, I have both with me so I'll try it now.

Thanks a lot!

>>53319240
Boys we have a new meme face

>>53328498
I absolutely love it!

so im planning to buy and magnetize a contemptor dreadnought from forgeworld but have never magnetized before, what is a good magnet size/drill size for switching weapons on the arms?

>>53331121
I used neodym magnets. First arm was a round magnet, 1,5mm*0,5mm, supposedly holds 30grams of weight. Didn't quite work out, but was the close combat arm anyway.
The other arm I was using a round 2mm*1mm magnet, holding ~200g weight. The arm sits perfectly, but is still movable and you can easily pull it off the miniature, but not accidentally.

Those are pretty strong magnets though, if you use just some regular ones you might need bigger ones. And always, absoluteley ALWAYS dry-fit the arm and the hole you're about to drill. You want this to be exact, or else you end up with a derpy pose.
Glue the magnets with superglue into the holes, but be sure to have them facing the right side, so they pull each other, and don't push themselves away. If you've glued them in the wrong way, you'll never get them out, aside from drilling them out.

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I'll be darned. New thread!

>>53331422
>>53331422
>>53331422

>>53314795
The good news is that with a bit of applied Green Stuff, you've got a decent squad of Nurgle Termies ready to go!