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WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Thread replies: 356
Thread images: 95

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No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>This planet is ours, witch!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_b-qBTul44

>Previous Thread(s):
>>50782506
>>50762861
>>50741925
>>
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>>50809268
Generally, I enjoy the process of painting units up and having them look uniform. So it wouldn't need to be insanely detailed to satisfy me. I would rather have an army of guys like this, than an army of individually posed snowflakes. I like uniformity.

>>50809315
That's actually pretty clever. Saving for later.
>>
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>>50809385
>Generally, I enjoy the process of painting units up and having them look uniform. So it wouldn't need to be insanely detailed to satisfy me. I would rather have an army of guys like this, than an army of individually posed snowflakes. I like uniformity.

I get where yer comin' from, but here's da fing, boss: I don't think you'll get anyfing near acceptable quality by using DAS and resin to recast stormtroopers. Part of what makes the molds work is flexibility. This can range from the soft Velveeta-like consistency of Micro-Mark's "1-to-1" products, which reproduce detail nicely but tear easily, to the freaky stretchiness of Aluminlite High Strength 3, which may have serendipitously just become my new favourite.

Additionally, you should be warned that some kinds of modern synthetic clay will actually try to bond with Citadel's styrene, so you might have to be prepared to sacrifice your masters if you pick da wrong stuff.
>>
Hopefully I can wrap up the people part of my big D&D project at the moment before I have to clear off the table for Christmas. After that it's down to the bases which I hate painting but oh well.
>>
>>50809567
So a silicone mould would be the best option that will give any kind of reliable result?
>>
>monitoring wip threads for a sign of the secret Santa I sent
>other mail sent same day farther away has arrived
>feeling a bit bad the gift isn't as extravagant as many posted

Oh Greensville anon, I hope it wasn't lost, and I hope you like it.
>>
>>50809608
For somethink like infantry, I think 2 part is your ONLY option, realistically. Press fitting 2 halves of the figure and then mating them just won't get results (and is probably a bigger hassle than just making a 2 part mold to begin with).
>>
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>>50809608
>So a silicone mould would be the best option that will give any kind of reliable result?

For something as detailed as a man-sized 28mm infantryman, with the kind of budget most people here on /WIP/ are dealing with, yes, I think so. For smaller pieces like insignia or equipment, you can sometimes get away with using Oyumaru or even greenstuff and press-mold them.
>>
>>50809809
Do you have a good guide at hand for a total beginner?
>>
>>50809669
>>50809809
Thanks for the advice anons. I'll have a better look into this then and I'll post results if/when I go through with it.
>>
>>50809862
>Do you have a good guide at hand for a total beginner?

This is the one that floats around in here. I don't have much experience casting in resin, so you may actually find this more useful than I did.

I got most of my ideas from the clevva ladz at Hirst Arts: http://hirstarts.com/moldmake/moldmaking.html
>>
>>50809927
thanks.
>>
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Repost from last night, see if I can finish today.
>>
>>50810054
>wakemeupinside-cantwakeup.jpg
>>
>>50810054
Have you read what happens when that hole in his chest closes again... Ouch...
>>
>>50810141
No, i haven't. Story time!
>>
>>50810054
An reason you didnt prime the rest of themodel? Or is it grey primer?
>>
>>50810141
No, I havn't. I try to stay away from campaign spoilers for expansions I havn't done yet. Still running core at the moment. If it's not something crazy nutso spoilerific, story time indeed haha.
>>
>>50810236
It's grey primer, and his base colour for the skin. I'm doing him as a grey/black dragon. The entire body is basically all based (horns, teeth, claws, etc.) I'm gonna wash him with nuln, do a drybrush, and then nuln down some areas into a gradient and deep shadow (like the feet and hands/forearms). Wing web is a lighter grey that I'm gonna use agrax on for a more fleshy tone.
>>
>>50810315
Cool! Looking forward to the finished model, looks really promising so far.
>>
I still want my story, but dont ruin it for >>50810274

Also to,hell with captcha showing me Reubens
>>
>>50810213
During the fight you can inflict toughness penalties on the Dragon, representing damage to the protection over the face in his chest.
This makes him easier to damage, as he becomes easier to wound.

He however has an ability that can sometimes trigger off that damage that removes these tokens and restores his toughness to full.
When he does that he lets out a massive burst of radiation that hits literally every square to his front (like draw a line from his base to both sides of the board, everything before the line gets fried) and also hits all locations on his behind.

The effect of that attack is quite spectacular, and dangerous.

You take 1 damage multiplied by the level of the dragon for each token he removes. Then on top of that there's a 40% that you'll suffer a severe arm injury, a 40% chance to suffer a severe head injury, a 10% chance of being slapped halfway across the board and losing certain gear items and a 10% chance you'll remain unharmed
>>
>>50810054

Put a gold ring on the middle-left finger and you'd have a great goatse mini.
>>
>>50810712
I was going to say that, but i dont like showing my /b/sides to this board lol.
>>
>>50810054
what model is that?
>>
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Working on a deathwing terminator i picked up. Still new to painting. Some c/c would be great.>> Inb4 thicc
>>
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>>50810908
Kingdom Death, Dragon King.
>>
I know its a strange question, and I don't know if anyone could answer it, but would anyone know how to achieve the red on the right terminator in >>50776863 ? It looks amazing.
>>
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Secret Santa!

From Fort Worth Anon.

1. A Johnny of my very own!
2. Mrk IV Beakie
3. Sgt Aurelius
4. OOP Captain with Stormbolter
5. Geigor Fell Hand from BOP
3. Mk VI Beakie and possible Rogue Trader Beakie as well

Awesome! I had intended to maybe open this on Christmas day but I couldn't wait, thank you very much and I will go about gluing them all to their bases.

In fact... regarding Johnny, if anyone could paste the Marine Chapter /rolling chart I'll take a roll for what chapter he gets painted!

Thanks again!!
>>
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>once upon a time there was a man who made a master plan to save money building an army and buy all the cheap ass Space Marines lots he could find on eBay and scrub them instead of spending 5x the price on NIB
>one day he cleaned up his things into "must scrub" and "good to paint"
>he discovered over 100+ marines need scrubbing and disassembling, along with 5 dreadnoughts and 9 rhinos

Do I just toss everything in a vat of dettol and hope everything works out?
>>
>>50811414

>Do I just toss everything in a vat of dettol and hope everything works out?

yes. Just seal the tub so the water in the dettol doesn't evaporate leaving you with sludge
>>
>>50811414
ive left some ebey models and crappy painted ones in a container full of simple green for more than 5 months. maybe ill go check on them now.
>>
>>50811414
I'd do it in batches
>>
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Painted my first alpha legion unit
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>>50811359
Paint him as a Rainbow Warrior.
>>
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>>50811502
>>
>>50811451

Would this not end up merging all the plastics into a Chaos spawn of Nurgle? Is there even a way to safely dispose of the sludge without clogging up my drain pipes or contaminating the environment?
>>
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>>50811359
>>
>>50811502
>>50811566
Nice.

Why the red chain sword though? That looks very odd.
>>
>>50811567

Dettol isn't strong enough to do that.
>>
>>50811567

No.

Dettol won't clog pipes so it can go down the sink.
>>
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Finished version in a week!
>>
>>50811570

Thank you, Sir.
>>
>>50811359

Can I make a suggestion that you look at what we have painted in OP picture and go for a scheme not currently there?

We're missing a Yellow / Lighter Green / White / Split (half or quartered)

You could try that? Or roll or whatever, it's your Johnny.

>tfw no Johnny
>>
>>50811688
Astral Claws it is.
>>
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>>50811688
Astral Claws
>>
>>50811750

I never noticed the Celestial Lions shared the same emblem until now.
>>
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This is odd, I was going to ask this last thread:

Let's say I have a load of old plastic Marines on 25mm bases that I don't give a fuck about. Is Astral Claws the easiest paintjob you can think of? Spray silver, wash Nuln Oil, blue pads with gold rims.
>>
Do you guys usually base first and then put the miniatures on or vice versa? I can see it being hard to place minis if you made the base but my stupid hands tend to get texture paint on the feet of my minis.
>>
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I bought myself a Mk3 armour set and Mk4 jump packs from chinaman to make some vanguard veterans for my jumpy marine army.

After buying them I realized they need to pack a little bit more punch to warrant the bigger cost over assault marines, so I decided to give some of the guys Storm Shields. But I didn't have the bits (gave all my marine shields away at a bits fair in exchange for heresy bits), so I took the Bullgryn buckler bit leftover from my IG and tadaaaaa

they're gonna have jump packs too, but I'm gonna prime them before gluing
>>
>>50811877
Why is everyone obsessed with this "easiest paintjob" shit? Why be lazy when you can put effort into making your minis look decent?
>>
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SEND HELP
>>
>>50811570
Rerolling from last time because Scythes of the Emperor are Ultrafags geneseed

Also because i need something to paint MKIII troopers in
>>
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>>50812016
Because some people don't have the time/patience/skill to sit down and spend hours on each mini. If they want a quick fix paint scheme in order to field a fully painted army then good for them.

I'd rather play a fully painted army that's been sprayed and washed instead of a sea of grey with 2 well painted minis.

>Pic related
my sprayed and washed space wolves
>>
>>50812083
Damnit, so close to Dusk Raiders.
>>
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>>50812105
And more on the way
>>
>>50812113
Dat Greatest Fett

I didnt think i could like you more. Also, what two colors on eyes again? White then bloodletter?
>>
>>50812138
Everyone needs a Fett on their painting table!

thats right dude: white, bloodletter, white... piece of piss!
>>
Anyone have any tips for making Sonic Blasters without buying the upgrade kits from geedubs?
I'm going to be starting an EC force soon since I got over Thousand Sons being shit for the nth time and Sisters not coming for another year.
>>
>>50811487
>last online: 1 hour ago
>>
>>50811487
I did this with my Dark Vengeance set and my first models. Got a summer job and left them for a couple months.

Shit came out pristine, except for red staining
>>
>>50810979
Why he black, also thin paints
>>
>>50812230
Sweet. Ive never tried Bloodletter.. but i got some mk3 armored troops and i like those eyes on them. Glad i remembered it.

And you're right. Everyone does, ive got an ex's painting of the fett man, and this little buddy
>>
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>>50812399
Forgot pic, oops.
>>
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Working on some tau
>>
>>50812427
>funko pop
>>
>>50812600
Its a damn Deathclaw, i dont care if ISIS manufactured it with backing from Trump and Martin Shrekli
>>
>>50811939
What arms did you use for the shield?
>>
>>50812230
>>50812105
So glad you shared this the other day haha, I used it on a glowy orb bit I did on another model, so good for that "white hot" glow effect. Thanks anon.
>>
What's the difference between the cheap craft store paints and the miniature paints like Citadel? Is it worth it to buy the Citadel stuff?
>>
>>50814067
>What's the difference between the cheap craft store paints and the miniature paints like Citadel?
everything
> Is it worth it to buy the Citadel stuff?
value is subjective
>>
theoretically, what would happen if I used antifreeze to thin my paints? there was a conversation a few threads ago about cats drinking acrylic paint water and how stupid they had to be to drink antifreeze, and since then I've been genuinely curious as to what the antifreeze would to to acrylic paints.
>>
>>50814067
citadel is actual quality, at least for most of their paints. their tools are overpriced, but not the paints. when you get craft store shit, you're getting shit in a can, because its cheap.
>>
>>50814067
The size of the pigments within the paint. In cheaper acrylics, the pigment isn't ground down to anywhere near as fine as those you'd find in model specific lines, such as Citadel and Vallejo. If you were to paint your plastic and metal dudes with cheaper paint, the end result will look grainy and lumpy. In the end, it's entirely up to you, but most would agree that it's worth investing more money into a better quality product.
>>
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WIP I need to know.
Is my Solitaire dressed pretty fair?
>>
>>50814346
I like it, but I think he might be a little flat. Maybe add some highlights or do a shade wash? Is that even the right term, the only minis I've painted to now are robots and I've been scared of actually using my nuln oil on them.
>>
>>50814346

You should add some highlighting to the black to bring definition to the model, but otherwise it looks solid. Interesting color combo.

>>50814428

Wash/ink wash is usually how folks refer to that technique. And give your robots some nuln oil love, they'll thank you. If you're really scared do it on a test model first.
>>
>>50814478
that's my plan, my and my lady are having a paint party tomorrow because I bought her a bunch of Warmachine minis since she likes to hang out when I'm playing. figure I'll do a few mockups to figure out my full colour scheme and try Nulning the ones I don't 100% like.
>>
What paints do you use for hair?
>>
>>50815023
averland w/ nuln oil
>>
>>50811939
Anon, MkIII is too heavy for jump packs.
>>
>>50815152

Finally, someone said it. Leave it to the retarded recaster to not know it though. It's like he didn't even realize FW purposely makes jump packs for everyone but Mk III.
>>
>>50811570
>>
Whats the origin of johnnies? I remember back wen people were talking about recasting him but I didnt pay any attention
>>
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Thanks again to Anon for his advice.
>>
>>50816119

How did you remove the details from the sarcophagus with the edge trim in the way? I want to make my Dreadnought with a blank coffin lid but the fucking trim gets in the way of me trying to sand or shave away the symbols. I was thinking maybe a chisel or some kind of small rotary sander.
>>
How do people pain't khaki/tan cloth? Painting some scouts.
>>
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>>50811359
>Thanks again!!

Merry Christmas, Beckenham anon!

>>50815926
>Whats the origin of johnnies?

Decades ago, Citadel released a set of Mk VI beekees sculpted by Aly Morrison and the Citadel Design Team. In very early advertisements, da Studio Ladz gave them all names, and they chose the cast of the Adam West Batman TV serial as their inspiration. There's a Brother (Adam) West, Brother (Burt) Ward, Brother (Burgess) Meredith, Captain (Cesar) Romero, Brother (Frank) Gorshin, etc. One of the models was named Brother Craig after Yvonne Craig, the actress that played Batgirl.

A few years later (c. 1990), Citadel published their Blue Catalogue. None of the old marines had fun names any more, just part numbers and descriptions: "Bolter 10", "Power Sword and Bolt Pistol", "Meltagun", etc. Brother Craig, however, was strangely absent; so, if he ever had a proper part number, we have no idea what it might have been.

Fast forward to a couple of years ago, when some clever anon grabbed this picture of Brother Craig and applied the "Kill 'em All Johnny!" treatment to it. Brother Craig looks like he's having a conversation with his bolter magazine the same way Johnny from Ed Edd, and Eddy has with his wooden "friend", Plank.

Then it was all downhill from there ...
>>
>>50816181
I got out as much as I could with clippers, then I did what I could with the knife, and lastly I filed as much as I could away with the tip of the file in some cases

Don't try a rotary sander, you'll melt pits in the plastic. You can get most of it with the clippers and what you can't get you can file off easily enough
>>
>>50811562
I agree, or a space shark.
>>
I've been thinking about the swamp bases I want to make for my Tau. I'm gonna make mud with watered down liquid green stuff like a guy at my FLGS recommended and I'm gonna use some realistic water to make it watery as fuck, but what else should I put on it? I was thinking some twigs to be horizontal tree roots sticking out of the water but what do you think?
>>
>>50817223

Roots, reeds, logs, frogs, moss are all good swampy things.
>>
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>>50817223
Dude. I've wanted to do the exact same thing.
Tau in a swamp.

My plan was to use hollow bases (secret weapon miniatures sells those, but they're easy to make yourself) and fill them to a varying degree with vallejo still water. I figured if you put some green flock in it should look like duckweeds. I also got some cattails for H0 model trains to put on the bases.
I even sculpted some critters to spruce the bases up a little.

Whatever you do, post it, I'd love to see what you come up with.
>>
I'm trying to convert flashgitz from nobs. Any way I could give them arms that hold a 2 handed gun? I suppose that ork boys hands are too small for that and I don't want to use combi-shootas hands that are in the box, I want to make my own crazy two handed guns from random bitz I got recently.

Pic is not mine, but I badly wish it was mine) What gun did he use by the way?
>>
>>50817223
Cyprus knots. Long, thin strands of algae that dont loop, but bow around sticks, knots, or even legs submerged. I grew up on the edge of marshland/swampland, and those were always gross. Also, algae splotches on top of Brown water, with thick bubbles. Large logs are really common, cuz swamp trees dont really break down that fast. And youd also be surprised how well a nice, perfect patch of hard earth with grass fits, we used to fish on them. You could pjt your larger model's feet on some.
>>
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Finished my dragon king, wew, 3 days of work, dunno what to paint next :/
>>
>>50819359
That's badass.
So where is it from, I'd like to read up on what its story is.
>>
>>50819368
Kingdom Death mate. Go search up lorez.
"The Dragon King's species is long dead. It remains alone, clinging to the memories of its once mighty race. Its destructive moods swing wildly from impotent rage to obsessive nostalgia. It stalks the darkness, lashing out at anything it meets. Survivors that run across the moody monster usually fall prey to the unseen waves of ruinous pain that emanate from the monster's glowing heart. Those survivors lucky enough to drive off the monster will be amply rewarded with a trove of new armaments crafted from the abandoned husk of the monster's body."
>>
>>50819368

Kingdom Death, it has tons of gorgeous minis.
>>
>>50819374
>>50819391

No entry for it on the Kingdom Death Wiki.
Only this blurb on the store.

WHY DOES IT HAVE A GUY IN ITS CHEST? I must know!
Is the guy the Dragon King and the dragon like a growth or extension of him. Is the Dragon like biological armor? Did the dragon consume someone?
>>
>>50818776
That's a Punisher Gatling cannon. I'm not sure if it's the miniaturized version from the Taurox or the king-sized Leman Russ variant, though.
>>
>>50811414
I found a sealed container from 3 years ago a week ago. Still full of dettol and none of the guardsmen have lost any detail.
>>
>>50819428
No clue. Majority of actual lore for stuff comes from the cards as the game is played, and I havn't used him yet, I'm still playing core.
>>
>>50819428

As far as I know (someone else described it this ay) it's like giant biomecha armor for the dude inside of its chest.
>>
>tfw love imperial fists
>have nothing but trouble painting yellow
guess i'm glad my second favourite chapter is the ultramarines
>>
>>50819686
Use army painter sprays or commit to white primer
>>
>>50819704
using a white primer, using thing coats too I always seem to have problem with yellow paints, it's horrible

i might try out an army painter yellow, though
>>
>>50819686
Yeah. White primer plus yellow ink/glaze and blacklining afterwards should be easy.

Yellow is difficult, if you have to work from a dark basecoat. Difficult in this case means you have to paint three or four coats instead of two to make it cover evenly.
>>
>>50819686
http://taleofpainters.blogspot.de/2013/09/tutorial-how-to-paint-imperial-fist.html
>>
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>>50811414

Ok, I get it, you want to play the game, not enjoy the hobby. Don't get me wrong, most people do like you do, they want a gaming experience above the usual board games.

But when I started it was all about making an investment. You didn't even think in the "I need to get a 3k army on the table STAT!" kind of ways. You bought a box, and you took your time with it. Buying anything else but new, or nearly new was out of the question, because you never knew what standard the miniatures would have, and the running the risk of loosing details on your miniatures was deemed to high. Back then, it was more a question about quality over quantity. And sure, it cost a lot of money in the long run, but month per month, you didn't actually spend that much. And when you played the game, it was more of a finale to show of your hard work and dedication to the hobby! Back then we almost always played fully painted, because we all recognized it was a hobby about miniatures, not a game with action figures.
But I wont judge, I to follow the flow of time, I to get the urge to sometimes just get the new and improved stuff in one go, and then finding myself playing grey armies, that cost me a fortune. But man, I really wished todays players would bring back some of that "hobby" in to this game again.
>>
>>50819359

This looks great anon, the base really makes it pop. Really like the teeth that stands out in contrast of the otherwise dark model. Great job anon, keep it up.
>>
>>50820100

YO IS THAT A FUCKIN ARVUS
>>
>>50820100
>You didn't even think in the "I need to get a 3k army on the table STAT!" kind of ways. You bought a box, and you took your time with it. Buying anything else but new, or nearly new was out of the question, because you never knew what standard the miniatures would have, and the running the risk of loosing details on your miniatures was deemed to high. Back then, it was more a question about quality over quantity. And sure, it cost a lot of money in the long run, but month per month, you didn't actually spend that much. And when you played the game, it was more of a finale to show of your hard work and dedication to the hobby! Back then we almost always played fully painted, because we all recognized it was a hobby about miniatures, not a game with action figures.

Holy shit this is 100% me. Always buy sealed, new on sprue, or new off sprue bits, only play painted, take my time painting, enjoy the hobby for years and years despite slow progress, swore off unenjoyable unpainted games, and laugh at all the plebs whining about how expensive the army is because they're trying to buy an 1850 netlist in one go while I have a full non recast FW army and spend less than $20 a month on the hobby.
>>
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>>50814346

You have posted this model for days now. And you have been given the same advice every time, yet ignoring it.

What you have hear is a very "clean" but flat model. Use shades and highlights to create the illusion of depth on your miniature. The black needs work, edge highlights at the very least! If you want to go the extra mile, blend black up to a very dark grey, then do the edge. The same goes with the white, its "to white". You need to create shadows. A good rule is this, when painting black or white, you never actually use black or white, except for that most extreme highlight and shade, that way, you give the impression of a white and black color. The red also needs some work. Looking at the digi squares at his cape, you can see you have missed out some spots of paint. And when doing edge highlights, hit the very edge, and never "frame" objects. Think of it as light hitting the very edges of your miniature, it wouldn't bring the same amount of light to all 4 corners of a square now would it? So, repaint red, lay down wash, repaint red, ad some highlight, and finish with soft edge highlights.

The gold and gem looks pretty good to me, and would qualify as "finished" in my book, but thats about it. Now, less posting and more painting, that is what you need!
>>
>>50820181
>obviously airbrushed miniature

Should probably post an example that didn't use airbrush to really push the point home. Gradients and highlighting are easy with an airbrush, although that image does show the extra mile of brush highlighting on top of everything else.
>>
>>50816216
I believe the sculpt is based on an RT era drawing of a Marine in a similar pose, but with what looks like a radio next to his ear. Also, lets be honest, that helmet totally has a raised eyebrow on it. Makes the suspicious stare combined with the "listening to the radio" pose seem like a match made in heaven.
>>
>>50811502
>>50811566
Pretty good.

Now I feel like the edge highlights on the cape could be better, as well as the knives, we kinda lose the outline of the blade, but maybe it's the picture that blurs the edge and the shaft.

Finally, I feel like having dusty greaves like that on metal/urban bases like that is a bit weird but at least the weathering is well done.

Keep at it.
>>
>>50811939
That shield idea is actually pretty good. I'll keep it in mind.
>>
>>50819686
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A89Z5Ogu0Qc

Use your brain and google anon, there's loads of tutorials out there.
>>
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>>50820207

The example is that of an edge highlight, and that, my friend, is not made with an airbrush.
But you obviously didn't bother understanding the context of my post before you answered.

>Gradient highlights are easy to do with airbrush

Well of course it is, thats what the tool is for. That being said, its not impossible to create some good´ol fashioned highlights looking ok, despite not looking like its perfectly blended. Hell, some people prefer the "hand made" look.

A better example would be pic related on how not to do a edge highlight, exactly the way the original poster have tried to make them, by "framing" the edges.
>>
>>50820486
>The example is that of an edge highlight, and that, my friend, is not made with an airbrush.

Read the rest of the sentence, moron. And the point still stands, if you want to demonstrate edge highlights, show a model that displays clear edge highlights NOT on top of a gaudy airbrushed scheme that completely distracts the eye from the hard edge highlights.
>>
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>>50820486

Much better example from the same fucking blog you took the Infinity model from.
>>
>>50820507

>Read the rest of the sentence, moron.

Well spoken, as you clearly didn't read the rest of mine. I answered the part about gradient airbrush as well you fucking dimwit. And I'm sorry your to stupid to be able to appreciate the full context of a miniatures painting techniques because of one specific ingredients involved

>Did that model have edge highlights and shade added? I couldn't tell, because the model was well blended

Do you know how fucking stupid you sound with a comment like this?

>>50820520

Oh that, I just Google "edge highlights", no more, no less.
>>
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>>50820239
It's reloading the bolter and holding the clip to his ear.
>>
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>>50820646
Thanks for reading what I wrote.
>>
>>50820568

Fucking Google, what a piece of shit.
>>
>>50820568
>why post a gradient airbrush photo if you aren't talking about gradients. well at least he bothered to highlight it afterwards
>THAT'S AN EDGE HIGHLIGHT IDIOT NOT WITH AN AIRBRUSH

That's you, moron.

>your to stupid

You memeing or literally this illiterate?
>>
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Converting Dark Vegenace chosen to bulk out plague marines.

Pardon the gaping joins, bought used and the last owner used superglue that has since crystallised so I'm having to break them all apart, scrape out the crap and redo them.
>>
>>50820738

Aww, nice try to save your face. But you're still stupid anon. And you still sound like an idiot trying to cherry pick your way through this argument.
>>
>>50820730

>Using a photo from Google to demonstrate a painting technique
>YOU SUCK ANON!

You clearly have mental issues anon, you should see someone about that.
>>
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Feel like this took way longer than it should have. Anyone ever does one of these I recommend doing each leg as a separate sub-assemby in addition to the bottom half.
>>
>>50820791
If you've got a sonic cleaner, try putting them in. I recently discovered that it fucking destroys super glue (Loctite)
>>
>>50820207
>obviously airbrushed

You can't two brush blend? I consider myself an average painter and I can blend like that without an airbrush.
>>
>>50820966
Sadly no, i should get one though for both glasses and my mini hoarding.
>>
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>>50820791
Update, found some ancient CSM bits in my messy scrap box, man what a hackjob.
CSM head, rhino gunner arm and a goliath ganger boltgun.

Still better than having a boring duplicate.
>>
>>50813920
Glad I could help anon. Care to share pics of said orb?
>>
>>50820950

Looks solid anon. Good strong red you managed to get there!
>>
>>50820950
This is BADASS
>>
>>50820950
Amazing red my friend.
>>
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Khornestruction moving forward, 2 more bikes done and 4 drivers wip
>>
>>50821395
Fuck yeah!

CSM and not Chaos Renegades, yes?
>>
>>50811359
>1. A Johnny of my very own!
I'm extremely jelly!
>>
>>50821407
yeah. They construct the Gehemeut, I don't really use actual CSM much.
>>
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I planning to buy https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mini-Airbrush-Compressor-Tank-AS186/dp/B004Y4JSPQ/ for my new Iwata Neo CN brush
I'm still a noob when it comes to painting - this a decent purchase?
>>
>>50821564
yup
>>
>>50821553
What is a Gehemeut?

Also are people ok with you using them as count as? I mean I would love to play against this, but some people are wierd, especially GW when its about 3rd party parts.
>>
>>50821584
Awesome, but is there any real difference between that one and this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fengda-AS-189-Airbrush-Compressor-Fenghua/dp/B00OB8B8AI/
Is it like PC parts where the brand matters?
>>
>>50821608

Nope.

At least I dont think so. I think most airbrush compressors are sourced by one manufacturer with just minor changes in design.
>>
>>50811877
>Is Astral Claws the easiest paintjob you can think of?

There are tons of equally easy paintjobs as long as you use a spray can for your base color.

Red->wash->minor details = Blood Angels
Blue->wash->minor details like shoulders = Ultras

etc.. they will look like that though.. if you rush your paintjobs it will look rushed.
>>
>>50812113
What is that book in the background Anon?
>>
>>50821654
Ah cool then, thanks for the help
>>
>>50814150
>their tools are overpriced, but not the paints.

Their paints are overpriced as well.

3,30€ for 12ml compared to 2,95€ for 17ml from Vallejo

Yes, their paint is good. So is the paint of their competitors. (No, craft store cheap acrylic paint is not a competitor).
The price difference is not as big as with their (really) overpriced tools but if you buy a lot of paint it sums up too.
If you have a store nearby where you can get P3, Army Painter or Vallejo as well as GW paint there is literally no reason at all to buy GW. If your local store only stocks GW and you have to order the other brands somewhere and pay shipping cost then i'd still calculate and see if its possible to avoid GW paint.
>>
>>50821673
heh not him but good find anon
>>
>>50821593
Gehemeut is the device used in the word bearers book to turn a world into a daemon world. They build a huge tower and a giant hole, and it transitions into warpspace.

And no, I haven't had any confusion. Granted I havent used these smaller forklifts yet, but I use giant forklifts as Maulerfiends and its never questioned.
>>
>>50821778
Happen to get any good use out of the gs cult release? Seems kinda right up your alley, weirdly hard to find conversions of that stuff converted away from gs cult on google.
>>
>>50815413
>>50815152
I bought them separately. I'm well aware mk3 is too heavy, but the chapter's artificers aren't. Not 10 millenia later.

I just think it's the best mark to make some really brute-force assault marines who aren't termies.

But don't worry, though, I will only use Mk3s on the storm shield dudes, maybe on the power fist guy. The rest will have Mk4s and 6s
>>
>>50813531
A chaos chainsword arm for the one with power axe and a grey knight psycannon left arm (the one hefting the gun) with the wrist reposed for the other.

Their little fists fit the buckler's gluing points almost perfectly, too!
>>
>buy Veridyan model for nostalgia's sake
>open the box
>it's a Shitcastâ„¢
>lost detail everywhere

Why do you hurt people, GW?
>>
>>50821921
Mail them, ask for a replacement because of molding mistakes etc..

sell your dublicate for 80% of retail price on ebay
>>
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Had anyone ever come across a left handed xacto knife?

I find the regular version tends to unscrew when i clean moldlines.
>>
>>50821957
The first line I thought you were making a joke but then the second line made me realise that threading is setup for a right hand world.
>>
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>>50821957
Get a scalpel.
>>
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>>50821957
I hate these knifes with the screw mechanism.
Get a proper slot in handle for these type of blades and you are good to go.
>>
Any general paint reccs?
I've heard that GW have the best washes, Vallejo have good colours and AP have amazing sprays.

Just trying to expand since 99% of my paint is GW Until i get an airbrush and can start doing OSL :^)
>>
>>50821834

Not really, the problem is the items like power claws and saws all have that 3rd arm to support them, while the rest is actually too clean, too future for my tastes. They also look very very heavy, too heavy, like when a guardsmen holds an autocannon heavy

All the genestealers seem to have better gear than guardsmen.

I'm more about finding the middle ground between Guardsmen mechanized and genestealers space-oddesy/dune feel without slapping ork bits on everything.

It's harder than it looks.
>>
>>50822068
>I've heard that GW have the best washes, Vallejo have good colours and AP have amazing sprays.

Generally speaking, other companies washes aren't bad, other companies colours aren't bad either and if you don't use AP paint the biggest benefit of their spray paint (100% color match with their regular paint) won't help you.

The differences between the "big" paint companies are marginal at best.

The only thing that really sticks out in my opinion are the Vallejo metallics. (not their metal paint within their game color/model color ranges, their metallic range). It has real aluminum powder in it which makes it awesome to paint and look at.
>>
>>50821957
Loctite
Alternatively super glue.
>>
>>50822139
How do you change the blade if you glue it in place?
>>
>>50811570
>>
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>>50820239
>I believe the sculpt is based on an RT era drawing of a Marine in a similar pose, but with what looks like a radio next to his ear.

I suspect the chicken came before the egg. Pic related isn't the only place Johnny (and a lot of the other marines from the "second wave") shows up.

>Also, lets be honest, that helmet totally has a raised eyebrow on it. Makes the suspicious stare combined with the "listening to the radio" pose seem like a match made in heaven.

I'm sure that was unintentional, but damn if you're not absolutely right! Plus, the angle at which I photographed him only appears to have (accidentally) emphasized the eyebrow.
>>
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>>50822433
>Pic related isn't the only place Johnny (and a lot of the other marines from the "second wave") shows up.

I don't know specifically who the artist here is, but he borrowed a lot of the models to stage the artwork for the Epic/Space Marine books.
>>
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>>50822471

... and then there's this other piece by Russ Nicholson, (same artist as >>50822433) featuring the model that in some apocryphal texts was referred to as "Brother Longun".
>>
>>50822471
That looks like an eldar weapon, not sure if heresy
>>
To add to the paint conversation: what's wip's opinion on P3 paints?
>>
>>50822471
>>50822503
Damn, I really want them all. They'll work well as Raven Guard.
>>
>>50821698
GW washes and technicals are good and worth buying from them simply for the ease of use. Other than that, Vallejo is generally equal quality for lower price, which I agree with. Some of GW's other paints are worth buying though, their new gold metallics are nice and I find their greens to be really good.
>>
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>>50822503
>Brother Longun

Brother Longun appears here, named as such, in a Warhammer 40,000 ad from White Dwarf 93 - about a year before the Nicholson piece (>>50822503) appeared accompanying the generic Space Marine army list in White Dwarf 105.

>>50822568
>That looks like an eldar weapon, not sure if heresy

You might find this hard to believe, but most races shared weapons with identical stat lines back in Rogue Trader days. Imperial units could get distortion cannons, Orks had bolters and bolt pistols instead of shootas and sluggas, and Panzees had meltaguns, plasma guns, and flamers.

A Space Marine tactical squad could, at no extra charge, swap out its standard issue flamer for a a shuriken catapult - a weapon which had a profile much like a bolt gun, but had "Follow Fire" rules allowing it to lay down a curtain of fire, potentially hitting and wounding multiple targets. Similar rules applied to weapons like plasma guns and heavy bolters as well.
>>
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>>50822606
>To add to the paint conversation: what's wip's opinion on P3 paints?

I really like their inks - I have brown and green. I also bought a bottle of their "Armor Wash", but I prefer the blood of our saint.
>>
>>50822644
Sure, if you buy only one brand you only limit yourself.
There is nothing wrong with having a couple of GW paints. Literally nothing they sell is unusable or bad. (Well, Imperial Primer is garbage compared to GW brush on primer, but thats the only exception i can think of). Everything else can be used. But thats true for most stuff of the other companies as well. Ryza Rust for example is awesome. (But so are other Rust effect paints from various other companies, in that case it was just easier for me to pick up the GW version of it instead of ordering a single pot from elsewhere).
Just get what you can find easily and whats affordable.
>>
>>50817528
>figure diving frog
I love it
>>
>>50817528
magnificent sculpt work!
>>
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So I finished painting my first model (well, fourth if you count the practice marines at my FLGS's intro painting course). What do you think?

(I know the face is kinda fucked up, but thought I'd ask for feedback before potentially going back to fix stuff.)
>>
>>50823359
- thin your paints
- edge highlighting on the black surfaces could help outline some of the details

You're doing good, but I think may benefit from getting a finer brush for some of the hard to reach and fine parts.

I do love the mini itself! Did you convert it yourself?
>>
>>50821957
Oh shit, I knew the unscrewing was not normal, but thought it was because my xacto is somewhat old.

Stupid things made for right handed people.
>>
Does anyone have a good source for tank accessories (eg. barrels, tools, luggage, camo etc)? Preferably in the UK but happy to look anywhere. I've seen the GW leman russ sprue and looking for an alternative.
>>
>>50823388
>thin your paints
I tried, but it's kinda hard to find the right consistency without making it flow everywhere and not cover anything. Will try to thin more next time.

>finer brush
Yea, was thinking that myself.

>I do love the mini itself! Did you convert it yourself?
I did, yes, thanks!
>>
>>50823542
1:30/35 kits.
>>
>>50823550
You want Milk-like consistency.
>>
>>50823542
Warlord Games sells stowage sets for german and allied tanks and also a set of "generic" canvas rolls etc.

https://store.warlordgames.com/products/stowage-pack-tarps-and-rolls

Check their store, you will find the other ones.

Rubicon sells similar sets, again for german and allied tanks.

Tamiya has a set of Barrels and other items as well. In both scales 1:48 and 1:35. (1:48 is closer to 28mm).

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-32510-Jerry-Can-Set-1-48-Military-Model-Kit-/351018764033?hash=item51ba594701:g:tm0AAOSwYshUZ6J0

Other companies have tank accessories in 1:35 as well.

Some are generic, others are for specific tanks like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEGEND-PRODUCTION-LF1031-M60-TANK-ACCESSORY-SET-1-35-/122064110652?hash=item1c6b96843c:g:mVQAAOSwtnpXm80S
>>
>>50823559
>>50823609
Thank you both.
>>
>>50823550
>I tried, but it's kinda hard to find the right consistency without making it flow everywhere and not cover anything. Will try to thin more next time.
I find that "touching" the surface of the water with the tip of your brush for a fraction of a second is just enough.

>>I do love the mini itself! Did you convert it yourself?
>I did, yes, thanks!
Was it only greenstuff or did you use bits from other kits?
Also, are you going to convert a whole squad or platoon? It definitely looks cool!
>>
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FIRST FOR RATS
>>
>>50823792
Did you screenshot a photo?
>>
>>50823745
Thanks! I've converted 5 models so far, but got like two dosen more, as well as some vehicles, I'm planing on converting. On the model in the picture I've only used green stuff, but I'm planing on using some CSM and daemon bits for the officers.
>>
>>50823964
>not knowing about metaphotography
>>
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>>50823792
Got yourself a little sprue nub.
>>
>>50824240
busted
>>
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Hi /wip/ here is my first real attemp at painting minis,a perry miniatures footknight
now,i was wondering should i use a shade on him? Every single tutoriao for painting i watched splatters that shit all over every mini

I got nuln oil,seraphim sepia and agrax eartshade
>>
>>50824342
hard to tell with the lighting.
>>
Alright wip, I have a spare China man Heldrake, minus the neck and no idea what to do with it. I also have the body, armor, and arms of another Heldrake. Any ideas what I can do with all of these spare parts?
>>
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>>50824342
Better lighting
>>
>>50824342
Use nuln oil on the armor/metal parts, and agrax on the cloth.

And yes, you just brush it on straight out the pot.
Just give it a try and you will see that it is extremely thin and its going to run all over the place (like it should) and it'll settle in the recesses.
If you notice that it pools in a large blop somewhere, get your brush and wipe it off.

Its not hard at all, you'll see how it behaves once you did it.
>>
>>50824419
focus your camera
>>
>>50824402
make a dragon titan.
>>
>>50811570
Rolling for respite from these never ending cultists.
>>
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>>50824419
>>
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>>50824240
Only slightly ashamed as these guys get used more than my 40k and 30k shit
>>
>>50824458
That tail looks like it will snap off the second you breathe on it.
>>
>>50824453
does your phone/camera have a macro setting? jesus fuck
>>
I still need to get a brother craig.
>>
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>>50824500
>>
>>50824480
Theyre actually really strong surprisingly, kinda like a more stretchy plastic
>>
>>50824458
I know my BB team got the most work of all my shit as theirs 14 of them so I've no excuse not to go all out.
>>
>>50824574
Thats better.

One tipp for the future: don't paint his base just brown.

You'll want to buy some bases for your knights. I recommend plain 25mm bases from Warlord Games or Renedra (they are pretty much the same) and then you glue your knight on there and add some sand and stuff on top of it. Then you paint the sand brown.

As for the armor, just take your nuln oil and paint it on.
>>
>>50811502
Is it your first Alpha Legion? Or you THINK it is your first alpha legion?
Or you want US to think it is your first Alpha Legion?
>>
>>50822663
Were relationships between races way more relaxed then? Or Humans built Shuriken weaponry?
>>
>>50824694
The Fluff wasn't fleshed out, thats all.
>>
Hey tg, which of the texture paints would you guys recommend to make it appear as if it's been raining? Should I go with one of the Stirlands?
>>
>>50824709
Vallejo!
>>
>>50824705
yes but stuff had a precise design. We all got the shuriken weapon at first sight. The design matches very well the eldar.

Does not look like something added because "whatever". There were Half-eldars back then...
>>
>>50824714
Which one specifically? The reason I ask is that a friend of mine who lives upstate informed me that his LGS is having a big sale and I'm passing off my paint list to him. I'm getting a whole mess of citadel paints and I'm going to be trying to do basework for the first time.

Bonus points for the quick response, yo.
>>
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>>50824429
>>50824614
Thanks anons
added the nuln oil and the model already looks waaaay better
This is just a test mini to see how thinks work
also got these bases in the box but they are kinda bleh and way to bright green
>>
>2 days to Christmas
>still no secret santa package
why live.
>>
Are there any places that sell decent lookalikes for Kroot or ideally, Vespids?
>>
>>50824767
And they actually come with bases on their sprue
but can't really argue since 37 of these bad boys cost 20 good boy pounds
>>
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>>50824850
Forgot pic
>>
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Do either of the models in pic related come in plastic? Im looking but ive seen only metal so far for both, except gw site has resin kroot hounds
>>
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>>50824896
Full pic, just for fun reading material/idea sparking.
>>
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Any good claw-like hands that hold swords or something? I need some and the Wulfen claws that hold thunder hammers and axes have a bit too thick of a grip to work well with swords I've been planning on using.
>>
>>50814346

you need washes and highlights to make it look better
>>
>>50825097
couldn't you just find some regular ones and shape them around the blade with hot water?
I'm not sure if that suggestion helps at all, but that's always an option if you're stuck with open palm hands.
>>
>>50824767
You are supposed to glue sand onto the base and paint it anyway, no matter what color it originally has.

In the end your chosen base has to fit your chosen game. If you just paint for the sake of it, pick whatever you like. I prefer round bases.
>>
>>50823359

looking nice anon, im guess this is slaanesh themed traitors? the black and pink is a cool scheme on guardsmen and i like the arrow on the helmet
>>
Is the Army Painter superglue any good? I presume most brands are about the same.
Also, seeing as I want to paint a lot of Leadbelcher and Zandri dust as my base colours for my Admech, would using the GW sprays for those on top of primer be better? I know they're pricy, but do they work well?
>>
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>>50824754
Vallejo texture paint comes in 200ml jars, not tiny gw pots. No matter how good the discount is, GW texture paint is always to expensive.

Get something like pic or link related
http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/water-stone-and-earth.html
>>
>>50811570
rooooll
>>
>>50825229
Fair enough, hopefully I'll have finished most of my AdSkitarii before the mud arrives. Thanks anon.

Also, quick question. Does anyone have any good charts, pics or whatever of interesting color schemes for Skitarii? The fluff for my guys is that the forgeworld they come from is in a constant state of rain or downpour, sorta like Washington or Britain. I'm just looking for a neat scheme or design that will tie into the constant rain.
>>
>>50825304
Ayy, you rolled my favorite gradientmarines. It's like being murdered by a beautiful sunset.
>>
>>50825386
Washington rain gives you really deep greens and blues, with blue-dominant greys. For the deep greens you could go with a brown or blue, and gunmetal blue would look good with that. For the blue-grey you'd probably want to go with a darker metal colour, and for both of those schemes I have no clue what colour you'd use for the eyelights but I'd just go with red because I'm basic.

I don't know much about Britain's rain, but it seems to be a blue-dominant grey as well, only much less coloured and if you're taking human creation into account, frequently coupled with red and brown brick colours.
>>
Do Metallics work well on black?
Was considering priming my Imp Knight Chaos Black then Leadbelcher, but worried it wouldn't work well.
>>
I'm not currently at home to measure. What are the heights (cm preferably) of the Tau battlesuits? I've found beautiful jetpack replacements and Onager proxies, but they're definitely meant more for Riptide scale than Crisid.
>>
>>50825744
I've only ever painted Convergence of Cyriss robots, and I always prime black and base cold steel.
>>
>>50825744
I'll give you one better. Silver-based metallics work best on a black base, it makes them more reflective.
Gloss black would be best if you're airbrushing the metallic.

Golds work best on warm browns and reds usually.
>>
>>50824948
This is awesome.
Wish Tau were more crazy allied aliens then XBOXHUEG fucking robots... also new kroot codex when?!?
>>
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>>50821673
Haha, it's 'images you should not masterbate to'

>pic related
>>
>>50825974
m-moar
>>
I finished assembling these two guys largely. I plan on putting the rest on after I done painting so that the process of painting will be easier. Still not certain of what I want to do with the bases.
>>
>>50825386
If you want to go with damp BritSkitarii, this is my recommendation.

Blue-Grey jackets, grey fabrics and silver metallics. Red or yellow eyelenses for contrast.

Then for the basing, either muddy earth with patches of water or urban detritus with red bricks and rusty pipes. I think that'd look nice.

Also, if you want them to look wet, blend the colours on the top of the model (where the water would collect) slightly darker than the covered bits and then put a layer of gloss or satin varnish over it.
>>
>>50825951
Yeah, the aliens were why i started my Auxiliary Force Tau. I eventually want to convert some knarlocs into crisis stand-ins if i could
>>
>>50825778
>>50825881

Thanks. I've bought a lot of stuff to make this Knight look good, since if I'm going to paint a huge centerpiece I want it to be at least decently done.

>>50812113

Do you think that method would work reasonably well with other colours and on other lenses?
Ceramite White/Bloodletter/CW seems like something even an incompetent like me could handle.

(Is CW normally as lumpy as the one pot I have? is a bit strange next to my other paints, but seems to work well enough thinned down.)
>>
>>50809476
I want to countershade my remora drones. Is Russ Grey a good color for the underside? Thinking mostly Loren Forest on top.
>>
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Working on death for the first time, want to go full spoopy, so I grabbed a box of malignant! Working on the cool mortis engine first.
>>
>>50825707
>>50826038
Thank you for the advice anons. I think I might go with the yellow lenses, that sounds pretty good. It instantly made me think of lighthouses I'd see at night back when I lived on the coast. Which paints do you think would make for a good blue-gray? Something like Russ or fenrisian gray? I'm trying to visualize the exact sort of shade. Also, I've never worked with varnish before, I'm pretty new to the hobby overall. Would it be a good idea to use the gloss on only the wet parts and then change it to something less shiny for the rest?

Hmm, I might have to go get some simple green when I start doing test minis for this design.
>>
>>50825097
Not sure how big wolfen hands are, but goblin or ork hands might work, depending on size.
Or maybe beastmen hands.
>>
>>50826297
This is my last post before going to bed, so if you have any other questions I'll try and answer them in the morning.

For the blue-grey look, I'd suggest Thunderhawk Blue or Fenrisian Grey from the Citadel line, or Grey Blue or Dark Blue Grey from the Vallejo Model Color line.

When it comes to varnishing, it's often a good idea to varnish models that will see a lot of play in order to protect the paintjob. In that case, I'd advise varnishing the whole thing with gloss varnish, adding a coat of matt varnish to take away the gloss effect and then using a satin varnish on the parts you want to appear wet.

For the basing I'd suggest using Water Effects as this gives a fantastic realistic looking water.
>>
I just got superglue onto one of my brushes

is there anything I can do about this, or should I just accept the sweet embrace of death.
>>
>>50826485
pretty ded
>>
>>50826485
let it dry, then sonic cleaner.
>>
>>50822121
Yeah I see what you mean, they are pretty clean in comparison with the dv culitsts and don't quite fit the theme. I just kinda figured all the mining equipment would pique your interests. There's one of those big weapons, it's like a lazer cutter that's got a bipod and a set of the "mildly mutated" arms (only two of em). MIght be worth checking out pics of the sprues to take a look at the pickaxe and dynamite throwing arms, pretty cool one-off bits to use. Hell even the optional drilling equipment for the goliath might be worth nabbing for conversions and that type of stuff tends to be fairly cheap.
>>
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Speak the words and it shall arive, here we go!
>>
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Cool! I actually needed some greenstuff and was thinking about starting to recast some stuff, this'll come in handy!
>>
Just bought a pack of 10 Cadian SHock Troops.
I wanna get into painting.

Should I spray prime the assembled mini, or on the sprue?
>>
>>50827764
>here, have the last few sticks of instand mold that I don't need anymore
stay classy guys
>>
>>50827687
I can recognize the khador models to the left, but what are the models on the right of the image?
>>
>>50827764

He gave you an axe?
>>
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Working on my Xiphon, plenty of weathering and work left to do. Also need to finish the pilot. But I think it's looking breddy gud!
>>
>>50827782

Cut them off the sprue and remove the mold lines from each piece. Put the body together, use blu-tac and put the heads/arms in place to figure out the head pose.

Glue head on, then glue gun on now or after you paint separately.
>>
Anyone have any tips on how to do blood axe camo and scheme?
>>
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> >50827800
They're Convergence of Cyriss Reductors, using them to decide on a final colour for the energy/eyes/etc.
>>50827808
And a sword, and two pennies, plus the instant mold and some green stuff
>>
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Gonna start painting Mistweaver Saih from Silver Tower all white (she's gonna be my Solitaire stand in, gonna swap her staff for a second knife.)

Now I know all of her dress will be white and so will her mists, and I will have her mask be red, but I dont know what other colour should I take for her armor, pants, etc.
>>
>>50820950
The extra time clearly paid off, that is fucking nice looking
>>
I hate painting SW on commission (unfortunately my biggest client has me painting his whole army).
I just feel like venting about how fucking shitty Space Wolves are to paint. Next to impossible to assembly line without missing shit on every other mini.
>>
>>50820996

Not that smooth you can't, and not with enough patience to go from both red to black and red to lighter red, and on so many parts and in different directions. You're full of shit.
>>
My 1k sons termies
>>
>>50811570
gib something aesthetic
>>
>Gundam/Armored Core/Frame Arms parts on Tau kits

Which parts can I actually use that are in scale to each battlesuit size? Kotobukiya doesn't advertise its scale, and "1/100" doesn't give me much to go off of besides knowing that it's around Stormsurge size.
>>
>>50828875
I liek it. How are you doing the red?
>>
Anyone know where to get Sanguinary Guard-sized bird wing bits? I've looked around ebay but they're all expensive (in the case of the SG themselves) or OOS (Scourges)
>>
>>50828851
At least somebody could be arsed to say it.
>>
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Anons, how do I get a bloody brass color for my KdK warband that I want to do?
>>
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>>50828924
Back row: Kotobukiya Frame Arms Durga, Bandai RE/100 Efreet Custom (Both 1/100)
Front row: 1/144 Geirail.

I don't own any of the Armored Core kits.

My recommendation is don't buy 1/100 kits since the parts may be a bit big for what you want, and look into the Builders Parts line for things like thrusters, panels, and wings.
>>
>>50829176
So Frame Arms pieces are bloody huge and I won't be able to use any of them. Shame, there's a very nice Onager Gauntlet-alike available through Kotobukiya. The 1/100 looks about right for a Stormsurge or Tau'nar, though, and the 1/144 is about on target for a Riptide.

Thanks, man.
>>
>>50829144
>bloody brass
what colour is that?
>>
>>50829222
I dunno, but that's how their armor is described, and looking at the pic, it's supposed to have a metallic hue to it.
>>
>>50829144
Paint them brass. Coat the brass in thinned Blood for the Blood God
>>
>>50829041
Undercoat it with boltgun, do preshading with runefang steel then spay it over with tamiya mica red spray
>>
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>>50829198
Too be fair 1/100 is a bit screwy in Gundam since in CCA-Unicorn-era UC mobile suits are fairly large and in Late UC (F91-Victory) mobile suits are fairly small. Both of these are 1/100 even though one goes up to the other's crotch.

Frame Arms are more in-line with one another since they all use the exact same frame on the inside.
>>
>>50829144
Maybe paint them brass, then sucessive Bloodletter glazes?
>>
>>50829338
Huh.

Any recommendations for what I could use for Crisis Commander-scaled parts? Seems to be a little sparse below 1/144 as far as scale goes. I've settled on using a Graze model for Stormsurge parts, but most of my custom stuff is for Crisis size. Onager gauntlet, replacement jetpacks, that sort of thing.
>>
>>50829258

Paint gold

Wash in blood red

Drybrush with brass
>>
Does anyone here have any experience stripping figures with a sonic cleaner? Specifically, regarding plastics.
>>
>>50829411

Not worth it.

Buy pinesol and soak inside a plastic bag.
>>
>>50829455
Care to elaborate?
>>
>>50829379
Try looking up cheap Victory/G/Wing/X kits since around that time mobile suits were purposely made smaller so that the models could be cheaper than older 1/144 kits. They might scale better since they're about a head shorter than a normal Gundam.
>>
>>50829480

It's a shitty gimmick that doesnt work as well as simply soaking the miniatures in a bag with Pinesol or a similar product.

And it takes an extremely long time.
>>
>>50829493
Doesn't Pinesol eat plastics though?
>>
>>50829523

Not to my knowledge.

Use something different then.

It works better than the sonic gimmicks, then just scrape off with a toothbrush.
>>
>>50829556
>Not to my knowledge.
>It works better than the sonic gimmicks
This sounds as though you don't actually have experience with it.
>>
>>50829411
People hold them in high regards, they work but you shouldn't go with pinesol. It's not nearly as corrosive as you need it to be. Buy a jug of Super Clean, used to be Purple Power but went through a name change. It destroys your hands so wear latex gloves.
>>
>>50829570

Jesus dude, nothing has ever melted or corroded when I've used it, but you can go ahead and buy that expensive plastic worthless household appliance that gets the paint off your models only partly and is disgusting and inneffective to use.

I dont care
>>
>>50829606
Then you shouldn't have replied in the first place. This was pretty useless feedback.
>>
>>50829523
Given Pine Sol's own website has instructions on cleaning plastics with their product, I'm pretty sure you're safe, you retard. Now, FOH.
>>
>>50829606
>>50829659
Not that anon, but it has melted and warped things on me before. Plus I've used denatured alcohol and got far better results
>>
>>50829687
>denatured alcohol
That's what I was going to be using as my solution.
>>
>>50829718
If you've got the bank, use the denatured alcohol and a sonic cleaner at 40khz for 20 minutes. The results are top class and far exceed anything I ever got cleaning by hand.
>>
>>50829755
Sweet, thanks for the feedback, it seems to match up with most of what I've read.
Cheers anon
>>
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>>50827942
What would you define as a bloodaxe colour scheme?
>>
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Making my way through a ton of 1k sons.

Waiting patiently for anything new to come out for slaanesh.
>>
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New shoota boys joining the deathskulls klan.
>>
>>50830376
Aussie orks sound like a huge menace. Imagine the shitposting they get up to
>>
How do you guys work up the resolve to keep going? I keep slipping into states of ennui and depression, especially about the hobby.
>>
>>50830708
I make painting part of my day but not the only thing I do, that way lies burnout. I'll go to work, spend time with friends, work out, play some video games, etc.
>>
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Update on these guys.
Sorry that my focus is a hair or two off. I don't feel like retaking these pic rn. I've got more group shots and a couple close ups of the white wolf.
Doing these as part of a fuckhuge SW commission.
>>
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>>50830371
You should probably have cleaned up the gold before applying the wash, but it's not too late to fix.
>>
>>50811586
I like it, nice contrast
>>
>>50830971
LONDON
[The white looks off imo/spoiler]
>>
>>50831033
I think that might be the camera, all the models colors look a lot more vibrant in person.
>>
How comfy is WIP tonight?

I just made some S.O.S for dinner, fed the pups, and started a nice fire to accompany the Jurassic Park trilogy as my background noise
>>
>>50831110
pretty comfy, I'd say.
I'm watching schlocky movie reviews, drinking a glass of pinot grigio and painting some Space Wolf commissions.
>>
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Posting a few pics of a tech priest dominus I'm working on.

Here's a fun question: Is it possible to have TOO much light when painting? This thing looks very different under my work lamp at full brightness that it does under normal house light. Haven't been home during the day to see how it looks in sunlight. But so far the shading gets super dark on the metal bits at home under standard incandescent bulbs
>>
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>>50831210
>>
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>>50831220
>>
>>50831220
I like the purple. It'll go good with some green eye lenses
>>
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>>50831232
Also curious how I did with the layer/blend thing. First time trying it.
>>
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>>50831242
Last one.

>>50831236
Thanks m80, I didn't think about green for the eyes, will have to give it a shot.
>>
>>50820860

He was being facetious, dicklord
>>
>>50827687 you're welcome I'm glad you like it I only wish I could have given more... Like the shell casing I wanted to put in
>>
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Might as well post these guys while I'm at it.

There's definitely something weird with the camera though, everything is slightly purple.
>>
>>50827978 I had to throw my two cents in I also understand you Canadians don't have pennies anymore
>>
>>50831329
Really diggin that dude on the left's weapon. Well done anon.
>>
>>50831329
The white on these dudes looks much nicer!
>>
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Still can't decide what colour to paint the inside of the cloak or the bulk of the scabbard
>>
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Finaly i got the inspiration to finish these guys..
>>
>>50831329
Turn off your instagram filter
>>
>>50831453
Purple and blue vertical stripes. Go big or go home. Also gold/brass scabbard with diamonds or rubies+emeralds on that pommel. Pimp City
>>
>>50831701
mechanicus confirmed for absolute, utter sex.
>>
>>50831701
Rock solid.
I like...even though I would have gone for a more dead flesh tone.
>>
>>50831210
>Posting a few pics of a tech priest dominus I'm working on.
>Here's a fun question: Is it possible to have TOO much light when painting?
Absolutely; if your lights are washing out what you're looking at, you're not seeing what the color actually looks like. Bonus fun fact; the word for the color change you're seeing under different lighting conditions is metamerism.
>>
>>50832220
well fun, maybe I'll start painting on a lower setting then.
>>
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>>50831453
Scabbard could be leather, brown or black. Dyed leather, like a red.

What's the outside colour for your cloak?
>>
working on a nurgle themed magewrath throne. going to use a water effect on all the green to make it look like the throne is some kind of horrible fountain.
>>
So, guys, I was using my spray primer just now, room temp, and the concave bottom just kinda bubbled out with a pop.
I understand this is the effect of a structurally weak bottom piece and pressurized gas. My question is, is this can safe to keep using? is it safe to keep storing next to my bed? Never heard of an exploding spray can. Couldn't imagine it happening at room temp for no reason.
>>
>>50832709
be careful that's how you make nerve gas
>>
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I haven't done many minis.. Did I fuck up by gluing bits and arms on before painting?
>>
>>50832717
thanks for the meme, fucko
>>
>>50832734
>Did I fuck up by gluing bits and arms on before painting?
nah, you should be fine. looks like there's plenty of room to paint those guys.
>>
>>50832754
>>50832734
Yeah, I think you're fine.It's mostly just a worry for people painting barrel-chested marines whose bolters are held right up against their bodies.

>>50831242
It looks nice to me but I think the harsh lighting is washing out your colours a bit on the photo.
>>
>>50809476
Any recommendations for cheap models I could buy to practice on?
>>
>>50832818
Look for cheap lots on eBay, Craigslist, or Kijiji for preassembled stuff. Sometimes you'll find really sick deals on there as long as you're willing to strip the previous paintjobs off. For NIB probably Reaper Bones? The cast quality is pretty low compared to the various wargames but the models themselves are pretty cheap (though some Start Collecting boxes might end up being cheaper per model still).
>>
>>50832818
if you just want to practise basic colours really cheaply and you're not fussed on detail, bags of army men. fifty models for five dollars.

otherwise, check out your FLGS's. i went to one the other day to pick up something and found they had an 'everything $1' bin and i snagged a bunch of infinity models
>>
>>50832709
I would throw it like a hand grenade, because that's probably what it is at this point. What brand (so we know to avoid it)?
>>
>>50832850
>>50832916
Thanks guys, I'll check out all of these options, I just don't want to ruin nice models with crappy paint jobs.
>>
>>50832936
it's a cheapo brand called Board to Pieces.
I bought a box of cans on sale aaaaand so far two of them have now fucking popped like this.
At least this shit is cheap and works well if you shake it enough.
>>
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I'll be darned. I thought for sure that would push us off the bottom, but it looks like there was one thread behind us that got the deep six.

Oh well. New thread:

>>50833449
>>50833449
>>50833449
Thread posts: 356
Thread images: 95


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I'm aware that Imgur.com will stop allowing adult images since 15th of May. I'm taking actions to backup as much data as possible.
Read more on this topic here - https://archived.moe/talk/thread/1694/


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