Duncan advent calendar soon edition >Citadel Painting Gu

File: 20161127_163521.jpg (396KB, 1200x1165px) Image search: [Google]

396KB, 1200x1165px

I think I'll try painting all the hanging toilet paper now.

>>50421313
hot damn, that metal though

File: sos1_v4_cc.jpg (305KB, 2656x1494px) Image search: [Google]

305KB, 2656x1494px

Now to do the other pauldron and the head.

>>50421313
Goddamn this looks good.

File: 1480268935726.jpg (75KB, 979x979px) Image search: [Google]

75KB, 979x979px

From the end of last thread;
Colourblind DE anon here, I've brought my old army out of storage in prep for the new codex but the paint scheme looks a bit naff compared to my newer stuff. I've done one leg of this model, and the black for the cloth will be a dark blue probably. Do the scratches look ok, and is the blending subtle enough?

File: IMG_2379.jpg (751KB, 2468x2344px) Image search: [Google]

751KB, 2468x2344px

What do you think /wip/? this is now my 4th mini I've ever painted fully
[spoilers]fucking feet are too small[spoilers]

>>50421276
Hey /tg/
/k/ here, been like 10 years since I 40k'ed, been feeling the need to paint and model again. To that end I bought some old metal figs off eBay that are easy as fug to strip, so I can practice galore.

I've looked at a few painting guides, got a list of paints off them, Vallejo game color is the line I'm going to go with I think.

Ive got a good area already, well lit. Not sure what brushes to get, is there a decent set I should look at? Missing anything in my plans?

>>50421384
use multiple thin coats to get a smooth strong color

use washes and highlights to really make the details pop

and pray to St. Rhodes before each session

>>50421400
Windsor & Newton 7's are a good basic brush.
You'll want a 0 or 00 for detail work.

>>50421400
Seconding for brush suggestions. I currently have this set from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PS8GVU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And, while I can't quite put it into words, I feel like these aren't doing the job, painting seems to be hard. They don't really appear to put down paint well, though that could be my technique. And anytime I try to dry brush the paint drys almost instantly, and even when it's 'wet' it doesn't seem to apply at all after the first couple of strokes.

>>50421425
Lol, totally didn't see this when I posted >>50421543

Would two W&N brushes really do it all?

>>50421561
The 00 or 0 are solely for the fine details. You'll want something larger for other things but I'm not sure on sizes for that since I use an airbrush and then brush in details.

>>50421400
Assuming you're doing infantry you're going to want a size 0, 1, and/or 2 round. This gives you a good spread of brushes to do everything from basecoats to fine highlights. Don't invest in anything expensive like a W&N S7, just pick up some synthetics from Michaels or another art store (I just suggest Michaels because if you're subscribed to their email spam you'll get at least one 50% off 1 item coupon every week so it's really fucking cheap).

Don't feel like you're stuck with just one line of paints. As you use them you'll learn to prefer certain colours from certain lines (I love Vallejo blues, and Citadel yellows). Also each line has better technical paints for different things (Vallejo Thinner Medium is better than Citadel Lahmian Medium because it's in a dropper bottle that you can't contaminate with paint and easy count how much thinner you're using; Citadel technical paints like Nurgle's Rot and Typhus Corrosion simply don't have a Vallejo alternative).

>>50421400
>>50421543
I have W&N Series 7 size 1 and 2 and they easily the best brushes I have ever used but they are expensive and I can't recommend them for new painters because new painters usually destroy their first brushes since they don't know about brush care or accidentally get paint up into the ferrule.

>>50421580
Infantry, bought some termites and scouts.

I'm going to branch out of one brand of colors, I just remember that my friends who were amazing at painting loved them, and dropper bottles are easy to work with.

>>50421580
Coolio.

So does anyone else here use Leadbelcher for drybrushing? I like doing it as it gives metallics a pretty awesome look, but I always wonder if I should be using the actual dry-brush paints from Citadel, or are those memes?

>>50421642
Vallejo dropper bottles are notoriously hard to shake up right. If you pop the dropper off you can drop a metal BB in there and then replace the dropper. This will make it much easier to shake thoroughly.

If you are looking for good video painting guides, look up the WarhammerTV youtube channel with Duncan Rhodes. He of course uses all GW products, but the techniques can be applied to any models with any line of paints.

>>50421671
you can drybrush any paints. The dry paints were made to be easier to get a smooth and consistent drybrush, but before they existed people drybrushed with regular paints. The drybrush paints are actually good, but you don't *need* them.

Drybrushing metallics is really oldschool by the way. These days people usually wash them.

>>50421724
Thanks for the tip!

>>50421671
for my IW's I use leadbelcher drybrush to get most of the armour done quickly, wash down with earthshade and then bring back the sheen with a drybrush of compound and then highlight edges and create scratches and weathering where the metal might contact or rub together, gives me a nice worn look I like on my IWs

>>50421276
Link to stripping minis doesn't work

>>50421724
>These days people usually wash them
Care to explain this technique, I've never seen it.

File: 「Too Much Monkey Business」.png (106KB, 346x327px) Image search: [Google]

106KB, 346x327px

I'm asking in here after 40kgen pointed me

>Is it really worth spending >£150 on an airbrush + compressor?
I'm honestly conflicted anons since while i'm not the greatest painter in the world i feel that using spray cans and brushing is limiting what i can do

>>50421813
If you have a big back catalogue, I think an airbrush is well worth it, I use mine mainly just for basecoating and highlighting on large models too, but I don't regret the investment.

>>50421800
you apply a solid base coat, such as leadbelcher.

then you apply a wash/shade of nuln oil or agrax earthshade.

then you go back and highlight the raised and flat areas with a brighter silver, like runefang steel or vallejo model silver

if you like, you can go back again with an even brighter silver and highlight the extreme edges

it takes quite a lot longer than a drybrush, but it looks really good and still doesn't require crazy blends like NMM techniques.

>>50421813
>i feel that using spray cans and brushing is limiting what i can do
It's not.

You might be able to go faster with an airbrush and there are a couple of techniques that are easier with an airbrush but the lack of one is absolutely not preventing you from painting better minis.

Post an example of where you're at now.

File: Talos First attempt.jpg (185KB, 601x805px) Image search: [Google]

185KB, 601x805px

>>50421943
Painted this ~2 and a bit months ago, had to take a "break" due to work

>>50421985
you could do more laying on the armor to get gradients if you wanted

a lot of the black bits are missing edge highlights

looks like the skin needs one more edge highlight

are their highlights and shades on the metallics? they look flat

>>50421985
Something that's really easy that would increase the quality of this mini would be to go back over your highlights with your base colour, and thin the line a little.

>>50422029
Nah he's effectively 70% to what i call "done", i probably won't be back to normal hobby freedom until after the new years

>>50422035
Yeah i've never been too great with line highlights in general

Is an Airbrush just for priming, basing and a little bit of highlighting?

File: DSC00048.jpg (546KB, 1600x1200px) Image search: [Google]

546KB, 1600x1200px

reposting

>>50422078
airbrushes are for flat coats and smooth gradients

so yes, priming, basing and highlighting large surfaces, but not edge highlighting.

You can also do OSL "glow" effects with them, but be careful as these look awful when done wrong

>>50422078
>done
if that's close to what you consider done, then it's not the lack of an airbrush limiting you. You're just lazy. Push yourself to do better, my nigga. It's the only way you can improve.

>>50422219
I prefer simplicity over anything, which is why all my bases are simply GW texture + wash + dry
I find anything else over the top and distracting

If i could consistantly paint, which i could do a few years ago while NEET, above average TT standard i'd be content
If an airbrush let's me burn through my huge backlog + gives me wetblending effects easier then it's all good

>>50421792

Works fine for me. Did you not include the ellipsis at the end when you copied it?

>>50422293
Even with an airbrush you need to be able to edge highlight, drybrush, shade, etc. All skills that you appear to be less than proficient at.

>>50422310
Just clicked on the link
I'm on a cell at work though

>>50422311
>To use an airbrush you need to master X, Y , Z first even though they aren't related
I appreciate that getting an airbrush will not change my degraded skills, however, if it saves me time, lets my prime + base in all weather AND gives me another painting skill then it's all good
I was just seeing if anyone has stories about their skills b4 airbrushing and after

>>50422355
It might make you faster, but your stuff isn't even tabletop standard yet. Going fast before you're good at something is an absolute pitfall and a good way to ensure that you'll be stripping and repainting those minis once you get good at painting.

>>50422353

Try copying and pasting instead, sometimes when a mobile device turns a link into a hyperlink it won't include things like ellipses at the end which could be what's causing your problem.

>>50422401
Good thing i've got plenty of models to practice on then.
Fortunately i have a few m8s with airbrushes so i'll see if i even agree with it

>you must be 100% proficent before moving on
80/20 nigga

File: SDE ranger sorc barbarian.jpg (296KB, 960x720px) Image search: [Google]

296KB, 960x720px

I've spent weekend on trying NMM on axe and OSL on hair.

>>50422401
Different anon here. An airbrush helped me consistent thin smooth base coats in a hurry so I could practice highlights without having to do basecoating again.

99% of the time when I prime or base with a rattlecan it ends up a disaster, but priming or base coating with an airbrush is so easy

>>50422454
>you must be 100% proficent before moving on
Never said that. What I said is that you should be good at something before trying to speed up your process. The mini you posted doesn't even look halfway to tabletop standard, so maybe you should slow down and make your stuff look good before throwing paint on a whole ton of shit.

>>50422401

>isn't even tabletop standard yet

your threshold of what is tabletop standard is really out of sync with reality

99.9% of people, if they had an army painted to the quality of that model put down in front of them, would be totally fine with it. In fact, it even meets the official guidelines of what counts as tabletop quality.

>>50422501
Go run a google image search on "Tabletop Standard" That's what I'm talking about when I say standard. Anon isn't even close.

>>50422491
Looks cute

>>50422500
Good thing i'm only using my possible future airbrush to prime and base until i get back to my old NEET standard of painting

I'll take your points on board as the cricket on my shoudler when i want to go fast when painting in the future

>>50422537
I can at least recommend you to Next Level Painting on Youtube. He does nice work and his tutorials are fun.

File: ppol 2016.png (297KB, 953x767px) Image search: [Google]

297KB, 953x767px

>>50422552
Thanks anon

>>50422501
What I consider "tabletop standard"

>You haven't missed any major details with your base coat, and you've applied a wash, maybe a few highlights on large edges.

That model is tabletop standard.

>>50422523
are you referring to next level painting's (kenny boucher) table top standard? He has straight up said his "table top standard" is for tournaments with hobby scores, not for casual games, but his definition is pretty much the same - don't miss major details, and apply a wash. He usually lays down some gradient highlights on the base coat because he's been working with airbrushes for a decade, but that's a lot of work for someone who does not have an airbrush, let alone the experience to use one so proficiently.

>>50422523

Tabletop standard is 3 colours and wash, to make it look good from around 3 feet away.

That's the official standard.

>>50422621
Have you seen Kenny paint a table top standard mini? His "tabletop standard" is better than most people can paint at all.
If you aren't rush painting for a tourney, then you should be painting ABOVE tabletop standard, not below, for casual games.

>>50422632
>confusing bare 3 color minimum with tabletop standard
sounds like your gaming group needs a new house rule:

All models gain Preferred Enemy (Unpainted Models)

>>50422632
I've been paiting for almost 2 years and I've only made like 800 pts, one board game and one skirmish game crews of models so far.
Recently I started playing at LGS small league, and my oponents always shows up with that "tabletop standard" minis. Imo they're (minis, not oponents) ugly as fuck, and I can't imagine how someone could call it his army, but I see their point, since most of them just want to play the game with no pref enemy penalty.

About how long after release can we expect new videos from St. Duncan painting the new Thousand Sons and a few Chaos Daemons?

>>50422710
>All models gain Preferred Enemy (Unpainted Models)
best house rule.

As a commission painter, if my "tabletop standard" doesn't make somebody at the table go "oh shit, how did you pull that off?" it isn't done yet.

File: 15231678_10153986839430936_649334845_o.jpg (343KB, 1272x1079px) Image search: [Google]

343KB, 1272x1079px

big red

>>50422757
>>50422693
>fixing typo
I agree that you should always strive to do your best and improve.
Kenny's "Tabletop Standard" is in part due to him being a tournament player and in part due to him being a literal professional painter with a decade of experience.
Obviously his "Tabletop Standard" is far better than most people but that doesn't mean you shouldn't try your best.
And yes I love his videos and streams, despite all the memes.

If you listen to his videos, he says that regardless of his ability, he considers a model "tabletop standard" if they have basecoated everything, haven't missed any details, applied washes, and based the model. That's it.

He has a nice tutorial out about rushing an army to tabletop standard, but doing so in a way that lets you go back later and add highlights to bring it up a level afterwards.

>>50422805
lookin good so far, can't wait to see final result

>>50422710
my club has preferred enemy (faggots), it's a great house rule

File: 100_2502.jpg (203KB, 746x700px) Image search: [Google]

203KB, 746x700px

>lighting makes the metallics look like sandpaper
I might have to graduate from poverty photo setup at some point.

First knight just about done. Need to work on the heraldry a bit more. I wasn't sure if I should use this shield at first because the previous owner had melted the plastic details a bit (presumably with some kind of shoddy paint stripper), but I think it works well enough.

I'm not a big fan of the warriors of chaos chosen models. Do you guys have any ideas of what I could convert to chosen? I was thinking stormcast eternals, maybe?

>>50421384
Alright lad, first thing, watch this and this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWHnXyD8Qiw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmKMeY5gqZY

Also, I think you should make the left paltron a little bit more dark, and the brass knuckle more shiny

Also, you should rework on the feet on the left, and make the teeth a little bit more bright

But it's way better than the first minis I did

>>50422932
Salty faggot that doesn't have a painted army detected.

>>50422973
Blood Warriors with the heads and some of the khorne bits replaced.

Retributors, with the sigmar filed off and replaced with wholesome chaos

40k Dark Vengeance Chosen mixed with Chaos Warrior bits

>>>50421850
They're scourge bodies hacked down and greenstuffed over, with sanguinary guard wings, and statuesque heads.

File: IMG_20140617_082318.jpg (2MB, 2448x3264px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 2448x3264px

>>50423177
Here they are pre-paint

File: rps20161127_203718.jpg (151KB, 1249x1250px) Image search: [Google]

151KB, 1249x1250px

So here's the product of my first try at blending, and the first time I've used a wet palette. It definitely looks better than how I used to do my sisters but not sure I can stomach doing 80+ of these.
How does it look? Anything look a bit weird?

>>50423287
Has a bit of a spook vibe going. I like it

>>50421313
how do you blend properly? i keep trying to search this online but cannot get any good video demonstrations. do you with the second wet, paintless brush pull the wet paint away?

do you use drying retarder? how thin does it need to be? i wish some fucker could just do an in depth video on this

>>50423597

You can do wetblending, which is using very wet paints and painting them onto each other, leaving part of each paint showing. For beginners, layering is easier. Using glaze medium, you thin your paints to complete transparency and then you just smear it on again and again, decreasing the surface you're going over each time. More layers = more opaque.

File: 99819915016_EpidemiusNEW01.jpg (37KB, 600x620px) Image search: [Google]

37KB, 600x620px

I got myself Epidemius few days ago.
It was pretty easy to clean up, but I've never assembled resin mini.
Should I go with superglue or bind it with greenstuff, or try to pin and glue everything.

File: tumblr_inline_odqkeqgDRv1si52o4_1280.png.jpg (615KB, 1130x1920px) Image search: [Google]

615KB, 1130x1920px

>>50423205
Nice work, anon.

>>50423669
superglue

pin if you feel the part needs it

fill bubbles with liquid green stuff or a milliput wash

fill large gaps with regular kneadatite (green stuff)

when grinding or filing resin parts, make sure you are in a well ventilated area

File: WarbossArt.jpg (156KB, 555x607px) Image search: [Google]

156KB, 555x607px

POST YA WARBOSSES LADZ

I need inspiration.

>>50421347
Hrmmm... can you put a flat piece of paper behind the model, or something? The pictures aren't that clear and the shadows arent helping.

>>50422491
The OSL is bad the NMM is pretty solid. Just practice more and remember to shade with your light source. It should be brighter toward the light first then you add the colours.

>>50421313
It's looking really good, but you know.. 30k is supposed to be a historical army tabletop game. Lorgar did not have red armour.

>>50424117

This is chaos lorgar I guess.

>>50422491

The source of the light isn't anywhere near bright enough. It just looks like she has cotton candy hair. NMM is pretty good, just need to smoothen up those transitions.

>>50424048
I always got prob with OSL, I'm trying to slowly blend it form base colour to source colour, but usually it ends up not-blendy-enough, or look not-illuminated just, diffrent coloured.

>>50423597
There are several techniques for blending. Mainly: layering, glazing, and multiple variations of wetblending.

For Lorgar I'm using a technique called "loaded brush". It consists basically in having one color in the brush, then pick a little bit of the second color with the very tip of the brush. You then apply it carefully over a surface in one direction so the two paints mix gradually. With some practice you can get perfect blends in just a few seconds. It is only for small areas though.

Watch the Painting Buddha videos on youtube and pay attention to Ben who uses this technique a lot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VepXVggrfiE

>>50424335
>painting buddha
are all their videos on their youtube channel? or are some just lost because their website went rip a while back?

>>50424335
Thanks

>>50424117
I don't play 30k :^) My Lorgar is post-heresy Lorgar.

File: snik.jpg (120KB, 672x641px) Image search: [Google]

120KB, 672x641px

>>50423933

Have my 10 year old Snikrot

>>50424364
Some videos are premium only.

>>50424117

Source?

>>50424467
eurgh. oh well. guess I can't get my hands on those ever. thanks for the info.

I'm looking at Winsor and Newton brush sets for miniature painting. Which set should I be looking for? They're not labeled like Citadel and Privateer Press brushes are. No base, layer, wash/shade, etc. Just "series 7" and "size 12" and whatnot. No idea what I'm looking for, can someone provide a little guidance?

>>50424607

winsor and newton series 7 Kolinsky size 1 + size 0

that's all you need senpai

Those are you detail brushes, the base coat and regular brushes you can buy what the fuck ever, wherever

File: 1480279178063.jpg (142KB, 1000x749px) Image search: [Google]

142KB, 1000x749px

What do you guys think of my lord of plagues? I am a mediocre painter at best, but I think his skin turned out good. He is not finished in a long way, but I like my progress so far

File: 1480279200588.jpg (135KB, 1000x749px) Image search: [Google]

135KB, 1000x749px

>>50424644
Here he is from the back.

>>50424641

Does it matter that it's labeled as a watercolor brush?

>>50424117
Who gives a fuck? People like you who don't allow for variations in colour scheme are cancerous autists and you shit up this hobby for everyone else.

Red's not even a wildly divergent armour colour either, it'll go nicely with the post-Istvaan colours of the WB.

>>50422805

Does the axe not want straightening a little bit?

Looks promising though.

>>50424683

No.

It's the best fucking brush on the planet for what we do.

>>50424683
Yes, if it's clearly labeled as a watercolour brush, it won't work with miniatures, even though the bristles are much better quality and could deliver better performance.

That's why citadel, army painter and many others have released their own range of fine miniature brushes, especially designed to be used exclusively with miniature paints on fine plastic, metal and resin mini-choors.

/s

>>50424755
whatcha doin dunc?

File: IMG_20161121_172339.jpg (2MB, 2448x3264px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 2448x3264px

I painted this a while ago but every time I look at it I feel it's missing something, any ideas?

>>50424644
Looking good with the skin anon. I just grabbed him for silver tower. What's your recipe if you don't mind sharing?

File: IMG_20161121_172311.jpg (2MB, 2448x3264px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 2448x3264px

>>50424837

>>50424837

>I painted this a while ago

Did you just want to reshow us your Demon, anon? :3

>>50424855
Skin is:
>Base layer(s) of Rakarth flesh
>A layer of carriburg crimson
>Then a drybrush of cadian fleshtone

>>50424837
the blood and the base need a little work, aside from that it looks good

How do you add weathering or battle damage to black models? I assume a silver like Leadbeltcher and maybe a dark brown or grey?

>>50421378
looks really nice. Blends are smooth, weathering is subtle

File: IntroSwatch.jpg (55KB, 300x300px) Image search: [Google]

55KB, 300x300px

>>50425096

File: IL92roR.jpg (448KB, 2064x1161px) Image search: [Google]

448KB, 2064x1161px

heads last or I'll end up rushing the boring shit

>>50426230

Clean as hell. Very nice.

hello wip friends
does anyone know where I can download the Painting Buddha videos? the big season 1.1, 1.2, and 1.3 dvd's. they used to sell them as HD downloads as well, but now I can't find it anywhere since the sites gone offline.

>>50421313
Beautiful, I love it.

May I ask for the recipe for the red? I tend to do a very orange hue for my reds, but I'm looking to branch out, and your red is perfect for me.

Commission painter here. Realize that I've been vastly undercharging lately because my turnaround time has been really slow because of school and work getting in the way. Thinking of restructuring to an hourly rate.
Something like $9 per hour spent on assemblies, $20 per hour spent on painting. With a minimum of 4 painting hours per commission.
Is that a fair rate or do I start pricing myself out of some work at that point?

>>50426807
>Is that a fair rate

That depends entirely on the quality of your work.

>>50426816
Well that'd dependent on what the customer wants. I can paint up to diorama quality, but it's most efficient to paint commissions to a high-tabletop standard (basecoat, layer, wash, layer, wear, base).
But ultimately the level I paint to is time dependent and that's a matter of how much someone wants to pay. At my minimum rate (4 hours), I can paint a 10 man unit or a large vehicle to my high standard.

>>50426611
If you don't want your red turning into orange use a skin tone for your highlights instead of yellow. But don't use a very light skin tone or your red will turn into pink.
For example that red is done like this:

- Base: Mechrite Red (this is the only GW paint, the rest are Vallejo Game Color, but they are the same)
- Highlights: Gory Red + Elf Skintone (applied like this >>50424335)
- Edge highlights: Pale Flesh + a little bit of Gory Red
- Shadows: Gory Red + Dark Green, add more green for deeper shadows (these are applied like glazes)

>>50421313
Wow, this makes me jelly... great job.

>>50422841
Yeah, his memeyness is dumb, but it's also fun, and fuck it's better than the 50 Slav guys on Youtube going

"Dis is how ai painted this mohdel. First, I used the ertomotif preymer, becaush it gevs me ther best finish"

At least Kenny has some actual charisma.

Hey wip-friends, complete noob here, have only been tinkering and looking up a shitload of tutorials so far.

Just wondering about bases, since it seems that people do those last. If they have rough texture or stuff on em, how do people put the model on when its all done?

Making room in it for the footprint while you do the base, or after the base is done? Something else?

>>50427547
They glue the model to the base first unless they're doing something super custom.

>>50427495
for sure, but I like some of the youtubers

>'ames werkshop 'ave this rust paint, and 'ey 'ave these vidyos with the guy, da way he explains it is so easy, an' I'm thick as fook

>>50427557
Ah ok, should've figured that much. Won't it look like the model is sinking into the basing material then? Should I heighten it with pinning/plastic under the feet?

Sorry if I'm retarded

>>50427607
depends on the thickness of the basing materials

>>50427572
I'm shit at phonetically typing Russian accents. I was hearing Apathetic Fish in my head when doing it, but there's a few.

He does some excellent tutorials, but fuck his voice is hard to sit through. Although to be fair to the guy if I had to teach someone how to paint in another language than English I'd not manage it.

>>50427622
Ok so I'm actually just retarded, thanks for answering though!

>>50427632
the youtuber I was referring to was english... I think? and not slavic, but he has a really thick accent anyway. Ian Wyatt (wazzoo2000) does great ork scratch build and kit bashing tutorials by the way.

>>50426566
no one? I can't even find it for sale anywhere, and I doubt they're coming back to business, since the owner is probably still in the hospital.

So, can someone post a good wet pallet explanation? I know how they work in theory, but how do I make?

File: plane.jpg (97KB, 1280x960px) Image search: [Google]

97KB, 1280x960px

i wish i had a damn airbrush for those things
(and a better camera)

but yeah, this is my first try at something that is not Imperial guard with camo's and gas masks.

>>50424117
You do realise that Lorgar did turn his armour red when his legion did? Pre-heretic lorgar had silver/bone armour colour.

>>50423644
I have rarely seen such bad advice. Brava.

Is it possible to strip primer off of minis?

>>50427973
how is that bad advice?

>>50424607
You want the series 7 and size 1 to 2.

>>50424641

You really do not want to be painting with a size 0 for anything outside of maybe irides. The important thing for high level techniques is the tip which is the same on all of these brushes. The rest is about belly size where a 1 or 2 will give you plenty of dry time without messing up the brush and allow for a wider amount of techniques to be used. Basically you want a good tip and a good belly without the brush being too big to fit between arms/etc.

>>50426864
If you can paint ten miniatures to "your high standard" in four hours, you're not overcharging in the sense that everyone doing work others don't want to deserve some reasonable remuneration, but you are overcharging in the sense you're probably (visual proof nonwithstanding) overstating your painting competence

>>50427910
Nice color scheme, but those freehand symbols are crap, and that sun "thing" is just egregiously shitty. Also are you taking the picture with a kodak instant film camera and having it developed at walgreens? jesus.

>>50421378
The blending looks alright, but you really need to drop those shadows. Right now your tonal contrast isn't high enough to differentiate between the plates and your shadows are a little off with the boot and knee being a little too bright.

>>50426230
Scroll work needs some additional definition, but that armor is crisp. Nice work.

File: 1299201891918.jpg (91KB, 642x630px) Image search: [Google]

91KB, 642x630px

>>50422727
>>50422727

Anybody know?
AFAIK he's never even done a video painting Daemons aside from the new Bloodthirster.

>>50428182
might be on release.

>>50428065
but muh random greek letters.

i need to go back to my precius pea dots camos
>Also are you taking the picture with a kodak instant film camera and having it developed at walgreens?

i fucking wish i did that, it would have a better quality of my camera.

>>50426807
Commission painting is a weird business as most of the target audience is very unwilling to pay livable wages for it as there's always Gamestore Johnny who will slap paint around for $5/hr. If you're lucky enough to have tied your local rate to yourself then yeah that sounds reasonable. A good rule of thumb is that you need to be making whatever hourly you're comfortable with (full time, part time, etc) by day/week/month's end. If your volume is too low to accomplish this then just charge a flat hourly rate and give estimates based on previous work.

For example, it takes me around two hours to paint a singular complex 28mm man-sized model. When I'm giving an estimate to a customer who comes to me with one model then I'll say it's going to cost between $30-60 just to give a range for the unexpected (the unexpected is almost always a customer wanting additional work put in, but is sometimes just unforeseen challenges with color choice/etc). This large range gives you room to play with without the customer suddenly being hit with a number you'd never discussed. It also has the side effect of almost always being at the minimum rate which makes people feel like they're getting a good deal as they had mentally prepared for double that.

The short of it is that it depends on your quality, your volume of work, and the expectations of the consumer. If you have control of the expectations and we can assume your quality is up-to-snuff then it's just a question of volume. For small amounts, go with hourly rates that are stated during the contracting phase and for large amounts just charge whatever you need to make that 20/40 hour mark (at $20/hr that would be around $400/800 a week).

Hey guys I'm painting an undead bloodbowl team at the moment and want to use Naggaroth Night as my teams main color. Any advice on what to use as their secondary color? Someone suggested green, but I wasn't too into the idea.

>>50427910
>>50428065
The sun's not that bad, it just needs a little cleanup m8

>>50428002
Because taking paints to "complete transparency" defeats the entire purpose of painting that layer on. Wet blending is also not determined by how "wet" the paint is, but instead by how quickly it is going to dry. You want it thinned to whatever consistency is best for you and otherwise mix a retarder in to extend the time the paint will be active. Nothing to do with "wetness."

Also anytime the phrase "just smear it on again and again" is used the advice is already crap. Brush movement is important for smooth finishes.

>>50427986
Depends on the primer.

>>50428579
Citadel brand citadel chaos black?

File: aliens-hicks-500.jpg (18KB, 500x299px) Image search: [Google]

18KB, 500x299px

>>50422727
>About how long after release can we expect new videos from St. Duncan painting the new Thousand Sons and a few Chaos Daemons?

17 days.

>>50428774
>not using chaos black XL

its like you wanted to fail man

>>50428774
Should be strip-able same as the paint. Might need to soak it for a bit longer, and make sure you brush the paint off so the stripper can get at the primer. I would go with break cleaner or simple green myself.

>>50427986
castrol super clean and a ultrasonic clean can remove almost anything, save krylon stuff not intended for miniatures

I've been building minis since the early 2000s.

I still can't glue a damn thing without super gluing all my fingers together.

Why am I so bad at this.

File: Junk Bin Conversion Monk.jpg (667KB, 1583x1157px) Image search: [Google]

667KB, 1583x1157px

I'm still new to this, but I think I successfully saved her from the FLGS dollar bin.

File: WIN_20161127_12_58_59_Pro.jpg (136KB, 519x558px) Image search: [Google]

136KB, 519x558px

picked up blood bowl the other day, got my first one painted, thoughts?

>>50429738
because you're clearly still using too much glue!

>>50429798
Nice analogous scheme there. My suggestions are:
-The base really lets the model down. I get the attempted astroturf, but it still doesn't read particularly well.
-The green on the shoes is too close to the green used on the base. I'd swap it out for some black so you don't breakup the cool scheme.
-Everything is a little washed out here. The finish is very clean, but your tonal contrast is lacking. Try bringing your highlights up in a few areas to break up the dull tone.

>>50429798
It's got this odd "flat" quality. Almost as if it's a cartoon or anime character. I kinda like it. It works for Blood Bowl.

>>50429738
I use toothpicks to apply glue instead of trying to apply directly from the bottle.

>>50429904
for some reason the base looks like garbage in the pic but much better irl, or are you talking specifically about the hashmarks?

i might change the shoes i wasn't 100% on them anyway but this being the test for the color scheme i wanted to stay as close to the real uniforms as possible

i'll give the brighter highlights a try, thanks for the imput

>>50430291
The hashmarks look fine, it's just that the base as a whole looks like it came straight out of the 90s. Maybe try mixing in some additional color in there like a bit of reddish browns and yellow to give it more pop.

>>50424117
>implying there isnt enough room to justify basically whatever colour schemes you want for Your Dude™ in the autism after istvaan
stay autist

>bought a few issues of this cheap online painting magazine
>it takes paypal basically a week to process online payments

>>50429798

looks really nice... what's on the base?

>>50429795

Is she Dabbing?

>>50428182
>new bloodthirtster painting video from Duncan
I don't recall that one.

>>50421313
Holy mother of god.

>>50424855
>>50424889
Not the Anon that posted the LoP but I am curious to see your LoP after you (possibly) used the colour the other Anon used

>>50429738
Stop using superglue onplastic, anon.

It's bad and you should feel bad

Does anyone have the link to one of Duncan's painting tutorials where he shows how to paint plague bearer swords?

>>50431644
https://youtu.be/urm-lWXxtJ0?t=320
?

>>50431644

http://letmegooglethat.com/?q=warhammer+tv+plaguesword

second link

>>50431685
>>50431686
It's neither of thuse. I remember when seeing it some time ago that it involved applying agrax earthshade as one of the major steps in painting the swords

>>50431723

Right

>>50431686

The video referred to here is him painting a plaguebearers sword using Agrax Earthshade amongst other paints.

what are you talking about?

>>50431745
I found it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO60F31D4UA&feature=youtu.be

>>50431822
...that was literally the link he posted >>50431686

File: See, not there.png (93KB, 734x666px) Image search: [Google]

93KB, 734x666px

>>50431831
>http://letmegooglethat.com/?q=warhammer+tv+plaguesword

It didn't show up for me

>>50431857
That'll teach him for patronising you with lmgtfy

>>50427607
>>50427557
>>50427547

If you're really worried, you can just drill a couples of holes into the bottom of your model and superglue some paperclip pieces in there. That way you can stick it in a piece of cork to paint, do your basing separately and glue it on later. bending the pins on the bottom of the base gives it a little extra strength too.

File: IMG_2528.jpg (100KB, 540x720px) Image search: [Google]

100KB, 540x720px

Does anyone know where I can get some bears that are thebright size for a space marine to ride?

Also lets make a vb themed army boys

File: IMG_0630.jpg (2MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4032x3024px

Building a scenic base for this chaos lord. It will be covered in snow and the mini is there just to show the scale of it. Should I add more shit? I initially tried making an imperial corpse but the pose looked really dumb

>>50427910
at least you didn't put more swastikas on it...

>>50427910
>>50432636
Needs a big ol swastika in the center

Nah but srs good job m8

add a swastika [/swastika]

>>50432605
ayy cunt

>>50432709
Fucken what cunt?! Do you wanna get glassed mate?

File: b49.gif (1MB, 680x680px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 680x680px

>>50432636

What are you supposed to write on those little scrolls on the sides of imperial guard vehicles? I don't feel like naming my vehicles.

>>50433118
DIE XENOS

>>50422148
Every time I come across your pics I have to say it: I love your paint scheme and army!

>>50432731
oi m8 where u at fukin dog cunt ill smash u

WIP which can actually be found in the catalog

>>50424961

How do I best paint light brown hair? What colours and techniques should I use?

>>50424465
>new base
>UNBASED
>10 years old miniature

you appearantly don't give a shit about anything

>>50434863

That picture is 10 years old mate... That was the base he got in his box

Weird...

How to make a ceramic appearance?

>>50435531
gloss varnish

File: warlord-Hail-Casesar-WGH-GT-24-Germanic-Tribesmen-with-Roman-euipment-sklep-warszawa-fgb.jpg (158KB, 599x1200px) Image search: [Google]

158KB, 599x1200px

I work at LGS, and my boss made me responsible for painting lessons, which we're supossed to run at january/february.
I know some basic, and most of people says that I'm good at this, but I'm not even close to Duncan tier (and I've only painted like 3 diffrent armies) and it's quite overwhelming.

So I got question for anons: how would you like to have your own paiting lessons at LGS? What would you like to learn, etc.


Flashy picrel (not mine) to get some attention.

>>50436860
Mainly the basics, like for example:
>How to paint skin
>How to paint metal (along with what shades to use etc)
>How to paint bone/skulls
>How to do higlighting, shades, drybrushing, etc
>Maybe do a quick lesson on how to base a model and then how to paint it so it looks good/decent
Stuff that new people can use to get better on over time

>entire skullz mechanicus line up on ebay for cheap as chips
>no money because I did my holiday shopping early this year
I'm not sure if they're recasted, but fffuck

File: 1476709485921.jpg (261KB, 600x835px) Image search: [Google]

261KB, 600x835px

One of my friends/players is trying to come up with a way to play someone from the new FF movie, I'm trying to take a crack at it and also having it be the "thrown weapons don't suck" archetype.

Fighter Archetype: Aperturist
Level 3: Can draw weapons with the thrown property as if they had the ammunition property, can magically recall a thrown weapon to their hand immediately after making an attack with it
Level 7: Can use a bonus action to teleport themselves to a thrown weapon instead, gaining advantage on the next melee attack they make before the end of their turn

I think it definitely needs more at level 3, it's practically just a rule fix and fluff.
Should I move the "thrown weapons drawn as ammunition" to a new fighting style instead? Or should I just allow archery to apply to thrown weapons? Dueling and TWF already do, and Defense is always good.

>>50421313
It really pisses me off that even with a fantastic paint job, that chest still looks like a clusterfuck of retarded sculpting.

>>50438492
Are you sure this is the right thread Anon?

What's the best way to apply blood onto weapons?

Based WarhammerTV at it again.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RY6qGamu24Y

Nun can stop the Dunc.

>>50440430
Kek
>tg-fit meetup

>>50440409
blood for blood god in very tiny increments

>>50427821

I have only used one once, when I was given one for a painting event at a convention, it was made from
>paper plate
>wet napkin
>sheet of wax-paper

It seemed to work fairly well, all things considered. Not needing to thin doon muh paints anywhere near as much as with a "dry" pallet took some getting used to, especially since they gave me vallejo which tends toward wateriness already

>>50431560

Here ya go anon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDwEGQLk6BE&t=477s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJQ0ZM2ew38

>>50444775

Better to use parchment/baking paper rather than wax paper

>>50445014

It probably was parchment, I just assumed it was wax-paper

>>50444775
lol don't use a paper plate, the water will eventually seep through it.

1, jam jar lip
2. sponge cut to fit inside it.
3. wax paper, or parchment paper
4. enough water to soak the sponge (or tissue paper) completely, but no excess water running around.
5. wait a minute while the wax paper gets slightly moist, but not wet.
6. put your paint on.

>>50445691
jam jar lid**

File: GemsTutorial.jpg (63KB, 1000x627px) Image search: [Google]

63KB, 1000x627px

>>50421276
You didn't actually put "WIP" in the header. making this threader harder to find than usual.

>>50445691

I've looked into wet palettes before, I actually like the idea of a box you can close a lid on to keep your paints wet overnight, but I figured the cheapo disposable option would be a good idea for practice/testing it out before deciding whether to commit to it

>>50445691

Or just thin with drying retarder. Don't know why you guys all bumble around with homemade wet palette when none of you have the skill that requires one.

The amount of WIP photos I've seen that contain blending can be counted on two hands in the course of 6 years.

File: side left.jpg (73KB, 634x468px) Image search: [Google]

73KB, 634x468px

Thanks giving break gave me some time to work on my models. I base coated about 20 harlequins, Just need to drag in the checkers, paint the checkers, and then wash and highlight the models. Easy stuff. I got to finish the design on my three starweavers. Just need to paint up the guys that go on them and glue everything together. I also bought a green stuff rolling pin from green stuff works. When it comes in I can make some nice ruined runes bases. Overall I am really liking my harelquins. The rainbows are BRIGHT, I used fluorescent paints and you can see them from across the room. I really like the planet I made.

File: side right.jpg (72KB, 643x475px) Image search: [Google]

72KB, 643x475px

>>50446961
And the other side.

File: 20161129_021823.jpg (2MB, 4160x2340px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4160x2340px

Heres the work I got done tonight on my team. Pls gib advice.

File: 20161129_021903.jpg (2MB, 4160x2340px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4160x2340px

>>50447119
From the back

>>50447119
Before asking for advice please take a picture with better lighting. That said, lay off the static grass, a few clumps is all you need.

File: 20161129_023406.jpg (2MB, 4160x2340px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4160x2340px

>>50447170
This is the best I can do

>>50446813
>Don't use a wet palette if you don't know how to blend fag

Or, maybe, just maybe, people don't feel like using some drying retarder, with which they might fuck up, and just like using paint that doesn't dry in 30 seconds on the palette.

>>50447694

If you're fucking asking for advice on how to make a simple wet palette on /tg/ of all places, the board filled with inept and incompetent morons, then there's a 0% chance that simply buying a dropper bottle of retarder and dropping that on your current palette to thin your paint is going to be more complex or difficult than making a wet palette.

It's literally no different than thinning with a dropper of thinner or with water.

Maybe, just maybe, you should stop being retarded and stop defending retardation and making shit up like squeezing a dropper bottle is some kind of fucking rocket science.

What colours should I use when painting horns and bone?

File: black-xl.jpg (299KB, 600x620px) Image search: [Google]

299KB, 600x620px

>>50440430
>little white can
>big black can

>>50445014

I built one using parchment paper and didn't work so well. It was like a wet dry pallet, but my shit dried up after a little while.