WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Almost fucking done...finally...

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>>50243401
About 90% done with the crew. Suggestions on a next box of Harad?

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>>50243483

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Little bit of Shade for this evening

There already is a thread, look for the Duncan.

It's OP just put the subject in the name field on accident.

>>50243686
Why not post a link to it faggot?

>>50243686
>/wipg/ instead of /wip/
Disgusting

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>>50243272

Does /wip/ like my silly Blue Horrors of Tzeentch head conversions?

I'm going on record now as saying that I am aware of the faults with the pictures.

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How can I turn pic related into something similar to the Space Marine Mk. VI 'Corvus' Beakie Helmet?

I am a greenstuff noob, is it possible and if so how.

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Just got a Rogue Trader era marine from Ebay and I think he's welded to this base. What the fuck is this?

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>>50244994
I once bought an entire lot of older models that turned out to be hotglued to their plastic base.

It was less than ideal.

>>50243686
It's about time for a new one anyway. Half the posts are replies to the Duncan meme.

>>50243272
Does anyone have tips for spray priming with grey? I'm finding it real fucking hard to tell if I got good coverage or not.

>>50245040
Use a well lit space to see if the finish is good. Spraying white on white resin has been a pain in the ass for me, if I miss something I fix it manually with a brush.

>>50245020
The base was pewter at least so it was easy enough to snip off. I would like to meet the asshole that decided to weld his fucking space marine to a hexagonal base

>>50244877
I like the one with the giant phoenix head, and I hope it never has arms.

Good Tempestus Scion schemes?

>>50244919
It wouldn't be difficult to simply extend the muzzle into the cone shape. Just make sure to use a wet tool to finish the sculpt so there aren't fingerprints.

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Oh yay, a thread where my question is relevant.

I'm trying to convert a deffkopta into a warbike. I do have a problem though - I can't decide what wheel to use 1,2 or 3. I have only 1 copy of wheel №1(sadly), have like 8 whole wheels №2 and few of №3. I wanted to cut bigger wheels in half and cover them up with deffkopta leftovers using this youtube tutorial. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdL38W7BuzA [Embed]

What do you think, are №2 and №3 way too big and just won't fit bike? I have my doubts, but I've already wasted my money on those wheels and now I'm salty. Also if anyone could share an advice for what kind of scale/vehicle wheels I should look for I'd be grateful.

P.S. to anon who answered to me in previous-previous thread, your jetbike conversion looked amazing, I'm jealous.

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>>50245703
Wouldn't surprise me if that was the supplied base. Things were less standardized in those days.

>>50243401
>No elf climbing the hind legs
Awful

>>50245747
Thanks, I want to make sure I get the angle right so it doesn't look to stubby and I am not sure how to support the arcs.
I am afraid it will look like one of the Plague Doctors with the long beak masks, ya know?
I had a better view of the helmet.

>>50243660
>>50243535
>>50243483
>>50243401
Looks gorgeous dude!

Do people actually play the LOTR game in your area? I don't think I've ever actually seen someone play it.

>>50243272
There actually is one. The OP just forgot to put WIP in the topic.

>>50249220
You shouldn't lie.

>>50243608
Hot damn that looks metal as fuck. You did a really good job with his face. Do you a better angle on his sword?

>>50249331
Huh? I haven't seen anyone play the LOTR game. In my area it's all 40k and Fantasy.

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How does she look so far?

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>>50249406
And here is her booty!

>>50243401
>>50243483
>>50243535

Why is the base so shoddily painted, could you just not be arsed to finish it nicely? If you took more care the whole whole thing would look better over all. The same goes for the brown sheet bits on its back, it needs more shade or something as they lack depth, and whole areas like that detract from the rest of it.

>>50249406
It's always nice to see someone else posting Malifaux stuff on here. She's coming along nicely. I'm not really too keen on the skintone though, it's just personal preference but I like my gremlins to a bit more towards the yellowy green end of the spectrum.

>>50247689
Might have been the case. Looks just like the base in that catalogue except it was solid metal. He's rebased on a 32mm base now and getting prepped to join a tactical squad. Also don't strip resin in alcohol because I just ruined a Kromlech assault cannon by doing that.

What's the best for stripping paint off metal minis?

I never pay attention everytime it's talked about here

>>50250132
Acetone

>>50250132
Nail polish remover that has acetone in it.. that being said DON"T use it on plastic.

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The 1/35 german guy from a couple threads back reporting in. Assembled all the figures, partially converted the Unteroffizier and Schutze Ein (the first is now a Leutnant with P08, other got the screaming face).

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And the back view.

>>50247097
Well #1 (FW nob biker?) looks like it would have to be used on the rear only unless you wanna get needlessly creative, but nothing's saying you can't use it with other wheels, I mean the kit it comes from doesn't look like it has any identical tires either, so you could mix it with #2 or #3. Can we get front views of the wheels? It could give a little more of an idea of what might look good.

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which one you guys prefer?

also some models of my army in the pic to show how they are usually colored

>>50251205
Number 1 for me.

>>50250478
Skin tone seems rather zombielike.

>>50251205
Left fits the best I'd say, mid as second.

Just make sure it ends up a lot neater, since all three look a lot like, well, quickly painted test pieces, and not in the "field applied improvised camo" sense.

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>>50251205
I recommend using a toothpick for doing the small dots.

Thats how i did my SS

>>50251205
If you're keeping the same ruins-style bases, I'd say go for #1. BUT do a quick test with adding a bit of olive drab to the tan like a faint sage color, or swap it out with a gray that leans slightly green. Compare end results and if that adds a little more contrast that you appreciate.

>>50251391
uhm, N2 is made with a green that goes for gray, i could add a bit of black wash like the nuln oil before applying the pattern.

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Buzz Buzz

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Just doing some weathering today.

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As requested

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What's a Vampire without a bloodstained cape?

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As requested/2

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Oh lord, where do I start...
Well, first things first, this is my first mini in months. I have literally not had any cravings what so ever to paint, play or read during a long period of time.
And this model, I have to say, privateer press isn't known for their high quality (what ever the fanboys over at warmahordes may tell you), but this box takes the price!
I have never scraped of so many mold lines on a model before! I didn't even have this much pre-work on my forge world knight! And the material they used?!? Yea sure pp, "its the same as always, just added color", well fuck you with a nailbat! This is certainly NOT the same material we are used to, unless chewing gum was part of your original ingredient. The shit is like hardened rubber, you just cant "scrape" the mold lines of, you have to cut each and every mm of this model to make it appear clean. Then you have to repair damage... oh for fuck sake, Ill let you figure it out yourself.
The model is bad, thats all I'm getting at!

Somewhere near end stage wip. Pretty pleased in regards to what I had to work with.

>>50251937
The starter boxes were fucking garbage molds and everybody knows it. check my goreshade3 right above yours if you want to see what an actual model they gave a fuck about looks like before you have a hissy.

>>50251618

jesus christ

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>>50251121
Sorry for late reply, just returned home.
I don't know where #1 is from, just got it as a "bonus".

I know that almost anything can work with orks, but sometimes bits you are working with are too ridiculous.

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>>50251949

Oh I have been playing since the start of mk2, and have several fully painted armies to this game. Thus my punch that they ain't famous for high quality models. But as you say, the starter box models where under all critique in terms of quality.
Normally its a case of bad resin/plastic, in comparison to the metal models, and impractical solutions in terms of assembly (like a wobbly knee-joint to thin to hold a heavy jack upright, thats where we put the glue point.... I mean what the fuck pp?!?).

They usually have some great concept, a cool fluff and awesome concept art to "lift" the overall quality of their miniatures. Its a full experience so to speak, not to mention I love how the game plays. But that doesn't give the right to cheat potentially new players. Hell, I was almost about to buy the 2 p box for hordes, until I saw the contents of the Cryx box.

>>50251866

from what company that model came from? Warmachine, i guess?

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>>50252210
Goreshade, Lord of Ruin a mounted Warcaster for Warmachine.
http://privateerpress.com/warmachine/gallery/cryx/warcasters/goreshade-lord-of-ruin

>>50243272
hey guys, just started painting and i wasn't liking how my first model was looking. all i could find was a spray bottle of simple green, is there anything else that i can order or find in store in melbourne australia that would do a better job and also come in a larger container?

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>>50252119
Yeah, they're no GW that's for damn sure. Ill basg on GW for forever fo r their rules, but I've never had a problem with any of their models since 5th ed dropped. They're jaw droppingly beautiful at times, but PP just makes some awful choices. Bane Witch Agathia would look amazing in metal where that dress detail could shine, but this PVC shit they used made even cxlassics like the slayer look like ass with the damage removing the sprue causes, and like you said MOOOOOOLLLLDDD LIIIIINNNNEEESSSS that NEVER COME OFF

>>50252323
If it's metal, then acetone nail polish remover to brake parts/carburetor cleaner work great. Simple Green works best if you leave it in a sealed container, and non-acetone polis remover works, but not being in either of your hemispheres, can't say if there's something better down there.

>>50252378
All my models are plastic so I'll try look around for larger amounts of simple green. Thanks friend.

>Getting so tired of having to edge highlight my tacmarines
>Probably gonna start drybrushing

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>>50252422

You don't need to "frame" the models, just edge where the light would edge naturally. This way you also save strength to do multiple edge highlights, to increase the effect of light reflecting.

>>50243483
They are about 20% done, don't even kid yourself!

I'm looking for an easy winter themed way of basing my figures.
My two suggestions are technical mud, static grass and some snow. Or a industrialised city, complete with broken pipes, rails and other bricks and bobs + snow.
Have I missed something obvious?

>tfw want to give my pathfinder "spotter" model the binoculars arm but It would look retarded using it with the helmet on
>tfw i fucking hate using bare heads for anyone but special characters/HQs

It's legit ruining my aesthetic.

Best paint scheme for Skitarii? Thinking either the stereotypical red or a black cloak lined with red.

Best scheme for Scions? Thinking brass on white.

I'm painting demo armies for Kill Team. I did test models for my Skitarii in Castellan Green and brass but they look very similar to my marines... who are also Castellan Green and brass. I'd like to make the armies visually distinct. The Tau I painted are dark blue.

Holy fuck, how do you choose a damn color?

I want to paint grey skin, but there are Dawnstone, Warpfiend Grey, Eshin Grey, Mechanicus Standard Grey..

How do you know when to choose which color so you like it?
Looks the paint in the bottle the same as dry?

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Chassis for my first Knight pretty much done. Thoughts? I went for a very well-maintained look.

>>50255725
Grey skin? Eshin, wash with Nuln Oil, highlight with Eshin. Highlight with Dawnstone. Personally how I'd do it.
I look up visual examples of the colors. The shades on the pot are usually accurate though.

>>50255799

Thanks for your answer.
Where exactly do you search for the paint colors?

I tried YouTube but most often I find something with bad lighting or where it's used as highlight where I can't imagine what it would look like as main color.

Also, what's the difference to the "chaos" greys as in slaanesh / warpfiend grey?

>>50255758
Looks great. are you magnetizing the armor and everything?

>>50252119
>But that doesn't give the right to cheat potentially new players.

Not that I'm a fan of the shitty PVC plastic they use, but the models are at least workable, and the starter boxes are cheap as fuck. I grabbed a starter for $36 brand new, when they were released. I hardly call that cheating new players. If/when they release a metal version of Xekaar, yea I'll probably grab that to replace the pvc one, but honestly it's not like it's a horrible model.

Besides that, it seems the newest releases have stopped using that shitty PVC plastic, so hopefully PP is moving away from that trend.

>>50255936
No, I've only magnetized the weapon options. The armour will be glued on once painted.

>>50255970
You should consider magnetizing the mask at least so you can swap them out.

>>50256048
I see people doing that a lot, but I don't really see the point. I will put the helm on with superglue however, so it can potentially be taken off if I really regret my choice of helm.

>>50256084
>I see people doing that a lot, but I don't really see the point

Variety is the spice of life.

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I found this, I say this should be the new swarm lord

>>50256119
1. Cute! CUTE!
2. I didn't know there was a use for the Maleceptor.

>>50255902
My LGS's owner is nice, and since he has a paint rack in the back for shop terrain/models, he just does swatches on bare sprues when I'm in. Otherwise, there's things like the paint chart on dakkadakka that are mostly up to date, or Duncan's videos.

>>50256158
The Maleceptor is one of those kits cursed to look awesome but absolutely suck ass, so reusing the head like this is a great idea, I'd have kept the swarm lords 4 arms and swords

>>50255758
stomped the shit out of that church

>>50254757
glue a bunch of different shaped rocks to your base, and paint them in a blue base layered to white like ice crystals.
then use snow in and around the rocks to complement it

frozen tundra
you can still dot in some colour like helmets or broken pipes or stuff

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>>50251618
Buzz Buzzo?

Best Metallic paint?

>>50256199


But is the paint chart on dakkadakka precise enough to show the look of the color? I thought it's just about which paints across different producers are similar.

Also, I sadly cant find a single video of Duncan painting grey skin. He betrayed me

>>50256383
I've only use Vallejo and Citadel. Vallejo Metallic Air series, without a doubt, is the best. The white-cap Citadel metallics (Retributor Armour, Stormhost Silver, etc.) are the runner-up and easily beat their old metallics like Balthasar Gold (which is probably better off working a basecoat to layer towards brass or bronze)

>>50256545
Model or game air?

>>50255799

What would you use as undercoat and base?
I want to paint tyranids similar to the "standard" on the boxes, but with grey skin, stronger purple on the carapace and light green claws etc.

White undercoat and Rakarth Flesh or what else would you recommend?

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>>50249654
Just have to do some basing and he's ready for the front lines.

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Would really love some opinions on the weapons options for a raptor lord I'm building.

>>50256838
ALLOFEM

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Finally got my Genestealers primed, or at least I think they're primed. Either I'm having a hard time telling paint from plastic, or I got really good coverage.

First time using a liquid mask to cover where I want to use glue later, too. The Vallejo stuff works well.

>>50256731
Yea that should be fine. I usually use white undercoat for everything, makes it easy to not miss the details of the model, as opposed to black sometimes.

>>50255758

Where did you get the bits for the base?

>>50257093
Looks like the plates from the old GW 40k building kits. Not sure which set, or if they still sell those, hopefully they do.

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Does anyone know how well Marine torsos fit Scion legs?

>>50256674
I want to know this as well.

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Don't have my camera, but this will have to do.
Finished winterizing my ratlings!
Greenstuff is a pain.

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And started my second valhallan squad.
Just started the robes

If I'm painting silver armor with red cloaks/tunics, what color should my primer be?

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how my eyes lookin /wip/?

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>>50244877

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I hate painting infantry.

>>50257537
>heard you talkin shit like my autosenses wouldn't find out

Not bad.

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Just started working on a Guardians of the Covenant army. Any cool models DA I could convert into a decent looking chapter master?

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>>50257911
I love painting infantry!
>>50257537
You need to paint a black line in the eye socket, then a white line inside the black line to make it look good. It's OK right now.

>>50257996
>>50257932
thanks for the feedback. i was trying to take a more closeup shot but my phone wouldnt focus, and then it died. ive done some more work and ill try to get a new pic up in a bit.

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>>50257996
>>50257537
Here's a better pic of what I mean

>>50258033
i tried to do it the heavy metal masterclass way from the new issue of WD, where I just paint the whole eye black and then two white dots either side to make the pupil

>>50258062
To be honest it looks like you just painted a white line then the pupil

Try practicing on a sheet of plasticard or paper

>>50257537
looks good to me

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What do you guys think about using lead fishing weights as rattlers in paint pots? The lead shouldnt oxidize while in the paint, right?

I would think ball bearing are better, but I dont have any laying around.

I'm planning on ordering some minis from based Chinaman to get myself started. I've been lurking in these threads for a couple months, and I've watched basically every video with the Dunc. Any advice on which models I should pick? I honestly have no clue what I should do in this regard.

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>>50257945
Ezekiel, Grand Master of Librarians

He has a cool model and you can easily take the runes off of his sword to just look like a regular sword as long as you arent worried about WYSIWYG-ness.

Or you can get Cypher, he looks like a pretty cool guy who doesn't afraid of anything

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Finally finished my warboss onna bike. Now i just have to finish a bike squad to go with him. Also, marine for scale.

>>50258293

I just have cut up sprues in mine. Am I retarded???

>>50258418
I remember you posting progress shots, mind sharing a good angle at full size instead of five smaller shots?

>>50258406
Pretty good one here, the model is even light on the actual DA markings so I can make it seem a bit more believable.

>>50258435
Go with what works, I guess. I was just thinking something heavier would be more effective.

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>>50258445
Sure thing

so it looks like those artificer tint paints are basically worthless

>>50258386
I don't know, man. It's really up to you. What aesthetics do you like the best? The cool thing about BC is that you can order shit that GW doesn't make anymore, without having to buy it from a pleb of unthinned paint.

>>50258544
Not bad at all. I like the work on the choppa under the shoota.

>>50258547
How so?

>>50257545
Saved.

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>>50258609
they're basically just pigment in extremely small bottles (they're 3 ml bottles) for 50$ that you drop into whole bottles to change the color. it just doesn't seem impressive for what it does. Maybe people will find other, better uses for it, but like, you can find colors of pretty much every shade under the rainbow already, so you don't need to buy these just to use them on bottles to make them a slightly different color.

>>50257945
Adding in something.
Preferably with terminator armor

>>50258544
Fantastic, that is the orkiest bike conversion I have seen in a long long time.

>>50252104
I think the black tire would be best.

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>>50255153
Stygies VIII Skitarii a best.

Black robes plus red armor is sex.

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sorry about the hand, this model angles the face in such a way it's impossible to have it well lit on a flat surface

>>50258921
Is that a conversion? The scaling of the head & arms is...a bit wierd.

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Tervigon I just finished a few minutes ago. Still a novice painter, but this is definitely the model I'm most proud of.

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Cant decide on a paint scheme for my tau
I just gt my first models and I've thought about doing the colour like the third marine in pic but I'm having doubts

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So the antennas on my scions kept breaking off, and I finally got fed up with it and started replacing them with 24ga wire. Fortunately I have a 1/32" drill bit for my Dremel.

It's pain, but my standards will not let me settle for less. Ignore the partially stripped head on the left, these guys have been simple greened a bit - they're secondhand.

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>>50259056
that's amazing.
>>50258921
nah it's original, i chose it to enter into a painting competition before i realised its really not too great a model

>>50259056
>Novice
Well, you're a talented one, and a good photographer too. The camera's hiding the ordinarily blocky look of those freehanded highlights excellently.

If you want some advice, your base is a bit plain. Needs some bits on it. Dead Guardsmen, or something of that nature.

I just found some old metal WMH models, and idk was younger me was thinking.

Long story short, what's the best way to remove glue and green stuff? I need to rebuild a few of these, and some are unsalvageable I think because of missing parts.

>>50259084
>>50259102
Thanks to both of you. I guess seeing all of the amazing work on here makes me neurotic about all the little details. Also I agree the base is plain. I'll go over to one of the bits exchanges at my local store to pick some stuff up. Thanks for the advice.

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Here is a mock-up of my color scheme. What do you guys think of the green and purple? Will they go nice together?

>>50259184
If they're metal models, Super Clean will melt the glue bonds provided you didn't use plastic cement to put them together. For green stuff, I don't know.

>>50259217
Looks great, a full army in such a style would be a pleasure to see.

>>50259184
You can freeze the model to try and cause the glue to separate. Since plastic and glue have different thermal expansion coefficients, they'll shrink at different rates with the cold, putting stress on the glue seam. This can cause it to crack if you stress it a bit further by pulling at the glue joint. If it's a lousy enough joint it might snap on its own in the freeze.

Simple Green can soften some glues without damaging the plastic or metal.

Green stuff is an epoxy. I dunno what it does in Simple Green, but the same freezing trick that works with glue should help the Green Stuff separate, too.

>>50259217
Fuck yes.

>>50259217
Weren't you the guy who was worried the Trump Police would hunt you down?

Colors are excellent, by the way.

>>50259080
I'll have to tell my buddy that. His antennae snap off all the time.

>>50259226
>>50259237

The models are all metal, so things that harm plastic don't matter.

Someone suggested acetone.

>>50259258
WARNING! Acetone is STRONG stuff. It won't hurt metal, but if there is ANY plastic in there it'll melt it like chocolate on a hot Sunday afternoon.

Be ABSOLUTELY SURE before you use stuff like that. I've lost good minis to bad solvents.

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>>50259250
Yeah I really had to tone down my models. Can go running around in full gay pride parade mode.

>>50259258
Yeah Acetone is a little excessive. It's like killing a weed with a flamethrower.

>>50259329
>Can't go running around in full gay pride mode
>Playing Harlequins

Too late, my friend. Better just embrace it and make them as garish as humanly possible.

>>50259329
Not that it's relevant, but the gay marriage ruling is apparently the one thing Trump doesn't feel like touching. It's Roe V Wade he wants overturned.

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>>50259349
This is practically how playing harlequins works.

>>50258910
>Stygiesposter is right this time
Good call. Any suggestion besides "black robe and Mephiston Red armor" for paint and/or weathering?

>>50259408
I don't play Harlequins, but I do love to revel in their absurdity. The models also look great on the table.

>>50259306
>>50259338

Hrm. It's an old PP mini, which should be all metal.

>>50244919
thats a cool idea. I would first measure the radius of the beak and cut it out on card or plasticard, make a cone out of that and just fit it under the muzzle that's already present then finish it up with easy GS touchups like rivets and exhaust slots. I think it could give the beak head a layered armor look.

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Been batch painting 18 of these guys, though only his Sergeant has the Admech head,

Still a WIP, need to do highlighting on the black armor and ink everything, thoughts so far?

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>tfw I'm a WAACfag, a conversion snob, AND a cheapskate at the same time

Only 3 more to go and I will have the delete-everything-grav-squad that I've always wanted by only paying $6 for the weapons

>>50259568
Nice choice of colors, got an Iron Warrior feel to it

>>50259665

It helps to be good with green stuff. I've never been good with that shit.

>>50256316
Holy shit dude, gross. Great work!

>>50252856
>>50253957
Is liquid talent one of those GW washes? Are they better than washes made with normal, thinned paint? I'm following the Reaper learn to paint guide and they don't mention specific washes in there.

I'll try to do something about those moldlines on the next mini I'll paint.

>>50259694
I used this
https: //www.greenstuffindustries.com/store/p1/Tentacle_Maker_Tool_Box%2C_Wave_1.html

Pretty much a lifesaver since I'm working on a dark mechanicus and iron warriors collection

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>>50259568

>>50258544
>>50258418
Dude, that looks bloody amazing! Too bad Hammer of Wrath on this guy stays STR4 AP-, eh.

On the subject of bikes, I'm this anon. >>50247097 Could someone post size comparisson of official ork bike(norma boy bikerl or nob biker) to a deffkopta or a vanilla nob model?

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>>50259714
>Liquid Talent
Yeah, that's a catch-all term for GW washes, the reason being because they're AMAZING at bringing out detail and incredibly easy to use.

I hate GW prices but their wash pots are the one thing I buy straight from the source. There's just no beating the quality of depth they can offer.

>>50259714
liquid talent=GW shades/washes, mainly agrax earthshade and nuln oil.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rD7Shdx_VBs
compare this skeleton to yours.

>>50259665
>conversion snob

Apparently not, with that garbage conversion.

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This was the worst model to put together. And ive done some fucking hard models.

>Fire raptor
>Kill krusha
>Dreadclaw
>Spartan

This takes the cake

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>>50259849

Y'know, every time a new SM super-heavy somethingorother comes out I just shake my head.

All the meta reasons for it are obvious. GW being the usual shills, trying to sell a new expensive model with new and possibly power-creep-ish rules.

But it's silly to me from a fluff perspective too. How many thrones did THIS hyper-specific, only ever used for X, mothballed at all other times, over-engineered, under-produced, probably under-developed boondoggle cost?

How many Leman Russes could I build with that money? Heck, how many Baneblades? And would they do the same OF COURSE THEY WOULD.

Space Marines are like WWII Germans. Bigger is not always better.

>>50259714
>>50259784
>>50259787
Worth noting that earthshade is the one that you want to use on your skellies since it gives them a more bony color. Nuln oil, as good as it is, just doesn't look good on bones and teef. I think it's cause it sorta dyes them black

>>50259911
Though I should still mention...DAMN sexy model.

>>50259911
I think space marines are generally on their own separate budgets that they manage themselves

>>50259911
This is the great crusade motherfucker, no expense is spared

Sometimes you really, really need to get through a fucking wall.

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end of todays progress.
guardsman for scale.
>>50259964
true that, on top of all the other shit that could require it to be made.
>"shit, it's almost time for review, if we dont have something crazy to show the high lords of terra we might lose our forge world fortune 500 status."
>"

>>50260162
He's a big guy.

>>50256316
I thought I had done well, but that's gorgeous!

>>50255965

Well, granted its cheap, the mk2 starter box was also cheap. But those boxes contained run of the mill, regular miniatures from the normal production line. The stuff you get in mk3 boxes though, its pure shit. Fuck, I would rate FF Star Wars X-Wing´s models at a better quality standard than this, and they counts as pre painted toys!

So yes, when you have product A. at quality X, and then proceed to release product B with quality Y in a new box, but at the same time claims its the same stuff as the first model quality, thats cheating! And I can tell you right now, the models on the front of the box is nothing like the models inside, my guess is that they made those exclusively in metal (the caster at least) for their own paint team.

>>50259911
that vehicle in particular is a little stupid. It is supposed to be an assault vehicle, but also a mobile command center. Like for real? why both?

A mobile command center would be cool enough on its own and make some degree of sense.

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How do I base my Iron Warriors?

I'm a big fan of desert bases but I'm open to trying a muddier brown color with barbed wire and debris but I've yet to find a nice tutorial for it.

Haven't weathered the model yet since I have to know where they'll be fighting first.

>>50260618
Personally, I would get some sector imperialis bases, put some mud and rust on them, maybe a little barbed wire

>>50259665

I like it. This is the point of this hobby, to make your own stuff, give it your touch so to speak. Good work on the fingers as well, looks believable, and fits well. Also, good work on the gs.

>>50260631

Thought about doing that, going into town later today so I might pick up some and try them out.

I kind of like cleaner looking Iron Warriors anyway so just adding a bit of dust and rust to my tanks would work with that.

>>50260533
>But those boxes contained run of the mill, regular miniatures from the normal production line.

Your not referring to the old metals right? Are you sure about that? I got both the Mk.2 and 3 skorne boxes. Mk.III has the red pvc, but both are still the same shitty pvc plastic. I'd actually say one the cyclopse from the mk.ii box was worse then the ones in the mk.iii box. I have the mk.ii Retribution box too, same very meh pvc plastic.

One of my gaming buddies picked up the mk.III trolls box. His caster was actually phenomenal I'd say, though i've herd people say that the trolls is probably the best cast quality of all the new starter casters.

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Just finished the yellow on my ork test model and first real attempt at highlighting. Any advice to improve it?

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>>50260685
And the booty

>>50257093
they come in renegade knight

>>50260651
I've used the GW fantasy bases, while while they caught heat for not being quite as detailed as people were hoping, their price is very reasonable (for GW) and with a little bit of texture and a nice paint job I think they can look great.

They are priced and best used I think as a sort of halfway point between resin bases and flat bases. A box of 60 is only 33 USD, or a touch over 50 cents per base. If you get some texture paint as well (apply it sparingly - the sculpted bases only need a little!) you still come out way ahead of buying 2 USD each resin bases.

>>50259849
The doors on that thing are a NIGHTMARE - what where they thinking with the fake pistols

>>50260618
Cool take on the iron warriors scheme, the photo is not clear on what the technique is here, it seems like a very dark silver with a mix of brown and black wash, but I can't be sure. Would love to know how you did it, might consider using it for the veteran squads in my iron warriors or something

What's the best Citadel primer for bright silver (Runefang to be exact)?

Also, about magnets: how do I properly work them into small model arms? Will I have to just cut a majority of it off and fix it with greenstuff? Where can i find a mini drill that can easily do the hole for the magnet?

Which do yall prefer, the assembling and gluing or the painting?

>>50260802

I just sprayed it Vallejo GunGrey (similar to Leadbelcher) and washed it with black and brown washes, drybrushed it Runefang Steel and painted some brown and sepia washes into the deeper recesses.

Super quick and easy scheme, can't be bothered spending ages on every singly infantry model.

>>50260813
look up "pin vice" on amazon for small drills. You can also buy tiny drill bits too, and even adapters to put tiny drill bit in normal sized drill, but I wouldn't do that,

>>50260844
I find Vallejo Gunmetal Grey to be super dark compared to Leadbelcher.

A 50/50 mix of Vallejo Gunmetal Grey and Vallejo Silver seems to get closer, but then I found my old old pot of Boltgun Metal and was able to rehydrate it, so I stopped mixing silvers for that.

>>50257093
Sanctum Imperialis.

>>50259787
>>50259784
Are the washes from other companies any good? I already have a black wash from reaper. I'll pick up that Earthshade as soon as I visit my local store as long as it's compatible with the reaper paints I got.

>>50260855

I found GunGrey quite bright before I washed it down but it might be down to the Airbrush making it smoother than my old Leadbelcher test models.

>>50256263
Nah, my other Knight will stand in the blown out church.

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>>50260874
I guess I should also specify, the Gunmetal Grey I noticed being dark was their Vallejo Model Gunmetal Grey. I did not realize they had multiple gunmetal greys,

>>50260903
Speaking of which, what is a super bright Gold good to use for extreme edge highlights?

>My current gold
Base Boltgun Metal
Super Thin Gehennas Gold (VM Old Gold would probably also work)
Reikland Flesh Shade
Gehennas Gold
Auric Armour Gold
VM Gold (super bright, but not quite bright enough)

I am thinking of either trying the new GW edge gold, or else mixing like 5:1 VM Silver to VM Gold or something to see if that creates the color I am looking for. Any other suggestions?

>>50260846
These pin vices are basically just tiny drill bits holders, right?

>>50252323
Methylated Spirits is your go to for anything Plastic or Metal. Soak it 24 hours.

Resin you'll have to figure out on your own. Dettol worked for me though, kind of.

>>50252407
Don't use Simple Green in Straya, cunt. Get some meths. Like 6$ a liter. Just soak that shit overnight, scrub it with a toothbrush. Soak it again to get any residual shit off.

>>50261016
pretty much. If you try to hold the bit with just your fingers you won't be able to drill very well, but a handle lets you use your wrist and hand, and not just your fingers, to drill.

You can also use a rotary tool like a Dremel. They are really cheap these days (like 40 bucks for the tool and an assortment of different attachments, not including a drill bit).

You can purchase drill bits in sets or in packs of way more than you will need. I would buy American made drill bits, since in the past every Chinese drill bit I've bought has been crap (though they came out to about 2 cents per bit)

>>50261046
Alright, guess I'll pick up one of these vices. Might still have some bits at home to use with it, even.

Do you think greenstuff will be necessary or can I do without?

I want to make some extra big warbosses. Bigger than ghazghkull. Anyone know of any models that could be chopped up to work? Idea for one is a rokkit pack sort of deal for a counts as biker boss. Other would be a foot boss maybe mega armored.

>>50259849
This thing looks like it should be a Sisters of Battle vehicle, all it's missing is some stained glass and gothic trim.

>>50259911
yanno, compared to the real life world where there is a fuckton of weird one off stuff and way way way more varients than 40k could ever hope to fluff - its not so bad

>>50261182
Would love to see a conversion like that.

>>50261182
No reason it couldn't be. They are imperial vehicles right?

How would one go about making their own battlemat ? what material would best for the mat ? and what measures to take to keep the paint from peeling off ?

>>50259911

It's basically orbital bombardment in breacher tank form.

It's rarely seen because it is hyper specific. It's only brought out when they must breach a fortified location without just nuking it from orbit, but all their normal methods of breaching fail.

>>50261148
Any of the AoS Ironjaw models is bigger I guess.
You'll just have to replace some parts of the model via sculpting or cover it up cleverly with armor, since the armor that comes with the models looks different than anything else.
Scratchbuilding some mega armor from plastic card shouldn't be too hard if you have another model around to use as template. It consists mainly of really crude blocky shapes anway.

>>50261342
You mean painted by hand? There are some tutorials for painting yoga mats.
That could work I guess.

>>50243401
>>50243483
>>50243535

That all looks like you've just got the base layers on, give them a wash, neaten it up and highlight, you've started good, now get them finished properly.

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I'm building a 40k PDF force as a Christmas present for my brother and I want theme them as an mechanized infantry force created to combat riots. I've designed vehicles to proxy as Chimeras (using the IG codex ofc) but I don't know how to do the weapons. I'm leaning towards flamers for most with some having multi-lasers but I don't know how to model them, as I don't believe that a riot suppression force would roll around with anti vehicle weaponry. Any clever ideas for the weapons? Pic related is a shitty drawing of the vehicle used, although I'm thinking of using an octagonal turret instead of a circular one.

>>50261518
shotguns and tear gas grenadessss

Anyone know how to convert something into a DS8 Turret?
I have a pair of unassembled missile drones but I don't really have any idea what I could use. Buying new fire warriors for a 10 point turret is a waste of money

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Maybe a question for HHG... but would it be heresy if I combined these heads with tartaros terminators to create the atrementar for my Night Lords army?

>>50261629
*Atramentar

>>50261629
Is anything ever NOT heresy if you have to ask for it?

>>50261866
So no?

>>50261880
It's highly heretical.

Go for it anyway since it'll look cool.

>>50261890
Yeah I'll do it and post pics when I'm done painting at least one.

>>50261629
only mildly heretical because night lords

the bodies might need a bit of detailing up to match a little better and you might have to cut down the heads to fit which can be painful for stuff as expensive as fw

>>50243401
Mamuk guy?

How do you guys paint scratches and weathering on black armour?

>>50262042
with a brush

>>50261906
Any ideas on what detailing I can add? Skulls from the 25 & 40mm base box maybe?

I think the heads fit. Those terminator heads looks like they are the same as mark 4 helms.

>>50261569
>shotguns and tear gas grenadessss

They're rubber bullets, I *swear*!

Is there a better feeling than finding a nice use for a completely unrelated piece? I'm going to use the beckoning power fist from the Prospero marine sprue as mandibles for one of my Dark Mechanicus guys, model base being an Ork Painboy. Chopped off the grot on the back and most of his face, going to cover it in a green stuff cloak and add some mechadendrites or a servo arm, probably.

>>50260685
>>50260698
1. Thin your paints.
2. Use more colours before the absolute white highlight.
Looking good, but you can do better!

>>50262095
Post pics

>>50262162
I will tomorrow!

>>50259849
How so? I might buy one in a few years when I go above 5k points of IW and have painted all of it. I love the look of it.

>>50262059
Which paints, though?

>>50261573
Cut down a slot into a drone head, build a box (hexagonal maybe) out of plasticard. Since they can't be targeted, the size/shape doesn't matter as long as the base is right.

>>50259521
Thanks!

We have a similar idea on how to do it but I know I will have a hard time with it.

Probably have to wait for Christmas to get my Knight unfortunately.

>>50243401
Aren't you the guy who rage quit a few months back cause a few anons gave you shit for tripfagging?

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The Crimson Slaughter called, they want their Chapter Master back.

>>50256119
it makes me ill knowing someone bought a $150 archaon model just to use the tails to make that

>>50263088
From the look of it, Anon use a lot more than just the tails. The heads, archaon himself and maybe the Torso weren't used.

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Remember first time painters, even the greats started out from humble beginings.

Even our very own St Duncan forgot to thin his paints at one time

http://www.warhammer-community.com/2016/11/14/my-first-model-part-1-our-own-duncan-rhodes/

>>50263105
>Thought for the day:
>“Thin your paints.”

ha

>>50263105
>Site is up
Finally. Thanks for the heads up anon.

Pretty sure we can add this to the OP:

http://www.warhammer-community.com/2016/11/13/the-model-photo-how-to-photograph-models-for-display/

What model has the best jet/rocket engine bits I could use to make an Orky Crisis Commander jetpack with?

>>50263221
Stormboyz?

>>50261906
nl etched brass might have some helpful stuff, besides that trophies should give you extra spots of detail to even it out

>>50263265
That could work for regular suits, I suppose. Unfortunately, the Commander is roided out and huge compared to infantry, they'd be maneuvering rockets at best. I was hoping for more like a Dakkajet engine, but those are built into the hull. Can't cut it down as far as I'd like.

>>50263201
http://www.warhammer-community.com/2016/11/13/citadel-paints/

This too.

>>50263415
You could look into those robogear toys from russia that were popular amongst ork converters a few years back.
They cost like 5 bucks per mini.
Some of them were fliers with fat little jet engines.

>>50263461
As nice as it is, its way to small to be useful

>>50251865
Noice

>>50263532
Open the image in a new tab.

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>>50243272

So here's a question. I started painting some minis for my first time stuff after reading up on things. I remembered I had a bunch of old mage knight figures and started stripping the paint off of them for more practice and whatnot.

I accidentally left one figure in stripper for a couple hours do to getting distracted and then forgetting about it. Didn't melt on me, but along with the paint coming off all the adhesives built into the thing fall apart and is now pic related.

I guess I want to use this for assembly and a learning experience, but I have no idea where to start. Reassemble first and then paint again? Paint areas that would be super hard to reach one parts are back on, reassemble, fill in?

I have no idea where to start with this.

>>50261101
You only need green stuff if you intend to do sculpting or filling large gaps.

If you decide you want it though, buy "kneadatite" off Amazon or at your FLGS and not GW green stuff. It is the exact same epoxy, but you get way more for your money. The downside of course is you get a ton....

>>50263602
It's one of those "whatever works for you" deals. And since you're new you have no clue what'll work for you. Have fun.

The real ass is when you get a mini where you can't fucking reach properly once assembled, but you have joints that need filling and sanding.

Guessing form the pic though you'll be best off just gluing that thing together completely before you get to the painting. Don't forget priming, and the mini ain't done until you've based it.

>>50263152
w-what? it is just a blog? not even a forum? wtf this this???

>>50263105
I guess he really is human.
Feels good that my first mini was marginally better painted than Duncan's first.

>>50263834
from a cursory view it has a bunch of painting tutorials, some tactica articles, and background information.
Some of it recycled some of it new.

Basically the hobby section of the old GW page. They don't seem to have produced original content for it like Black Gobbo did though.

So far not a bad start though.

Honestly an official GW forum would just be shitposting and whining.

>>50263834
A forum needs moderation, a blog doesn't.

Its a start though.

>>50263880
>Honestly an official GW forum would just be shitposting and whining.

This, or it would be moderated like North Korea.. and both sides are equally bad.

>>50263880
>>50263944
This. They already have the FB pages for feedback, and it forces a bit people to post without anonymity. For all the good it can do to a place like 4chan, anonymity would be toxic to something like that.

>>50264019
Look at face. It radiates kindness. Even ADB wanted a selfie with him for the BL weekend. Must be weird for him to have become the most popular guy in GW by just doing what he loves and actually being paid for it.

Finished building the 3 prosecutors and with that it's finally over, my first and last set is complete.

I don't know how you guys can stand it, I'd rather shoot myself in the fucking head than do another set. So much trouble and hours for a few little soldiers.

Now I just have to paint them haha fucking kill me.

>>50264048
>Must be weird for him to have become the most popular guy in GW
He's the first public face since most prominent people jumped ship in the 90s/early 00s and the codex books are not attributed to singular people anymore.

Not a big surprise really, if you think about it.
Good thing for GW he seems to be universally well liked.

>>50264049
So why do you bother with the hobby if you hate it this much?

I've heard that a fairly painless beginner method to doing black armour is to layer black washes over a gunmetal basecoat. The effect was described as a sooty, murky black with little need for highlighting because the high points of the model are less tinted by the wash layers.

Does anyone know if this is just fool's gold? I've struggled with black armour before and hate highlighting. This seems like a great idiotproof method but it also seems like it could be too good to be true.

>>50264049
You don't like assembly or painting?

Why are you in this hobby then?

>>50264049
Check out the X-Wing game. It comes with pre-painted and pre-assembled minis.

>>50264131
Try it.

As you said, the result is more like a very black-ish dark metal rather than a neat looking black armor but it can work for certain types of miniatures.

>>50264159
I'm trying my best to find pictures of models done this way, and I've definitely seen a HH Raven Guard army done so on m'leddit, but I'm having trouble finding it again.

>>50264131
Never heard of people using metallic colors for this.
Seem people do this with dark greys though.

You can get some darker greys from Vallejo in case you are reluctant to mix your own.

And the 'too good to be true' part is kind of relative.
There are no shortcuts or easy ways to paint something really well. If you use washed to paint that way it's gonna look like you used washes to paint that way too.

Might be what you want though, then it's all good.

>>50264126
>>50264142

Well actually, I'm not. Don't even play the game.

I love the way miniatures look when finished and painted. Absolutely love them, so much detail on a small thing appeals to me. So I thought how hard can it be, I'll buy a set. In the process I realized it takes hours and it's frustrating as fuck. For me, at least, you might be a lot better than me, I'm clearly shit.

Basically, I took the bait.
Lured by the pretty pictures on the gw site.
I collected anime figures and now collect lego, so buying plastic shit is my thing.

>>50264284
There are companies that do prepainted stuff, others do single-pose minis. Maybe thats more for you?

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Daily repost

Almost 25 people reported in so far!

>>50264147
>>50264312

Thanks, I'll look into it.

>>50264284
It's not just you mate, it's time consuming and finicky. The rest of us just chose not to give up. Feel free to give up though. If you've had trouble just making them then here's hoping Duncan smiles on you trying to paint them.

>>50263944
>>50263880
>>50264048
I get that an official forum would be bad.

Hiroshimoot seems determined to fuck up 4chan, and if he shuts down /tg/ or drives too many people away with malware ads I'll need a new place to ask stupid hobby questions

http://www.warhammer-community.com/2016/11/14/my-first-model-part-1-our-own-duncan-rhodes/

He was one of us

>>50264427
Just hang on DakkaDakka for warhams, leadadventure is nice for historicals but theminiaturespage is a mixed bag due to it being owned by a fat guy who had philipino trannies do admin work.

>>50264324
Is it normal that you haven't sent a reply acknowledging addresses yet? Last year I got an almost immediate response fro sending mine, before waiting a bit to get someone else's, so I wonder if my mail got through.

>>50264650
I actually didn't send something back in most cases (only if someone forgot his name or stuff like that), but now that you are saying it... maybe i should do that. Totally forgot that i did it last year.

>>50264695
Sounds good, godspeed anon. You are part of what makes /tg/ great.

>>50264695
Got it. Thanks anon

>>50264324
I think I'll take part in this year. Got some $$ to spare so I'll try to make someone happy :3

>>50264324
>>50264650

So i just send a mail to everyone who mailed me.

I don't think i missed someone, but if anyone didn't get a mail back from me, please send your mail again.

>>50264727
Great

>>50264752
Nice to hear

>>50264799
Got it as well!

>>50264799
Confirmed.
I hope that my anon will be alright with non-40k doodads

>>50249406
Not sure if it is the lighting or the angel, but it was very hard to see the arms at all.

>>50249522
Not him, but he did say he wasn't done. Those could be on the to do list. No need to be angry about it, anon.

>>50264324
I want to participate but I am stuff utterly terrified that something bad will happen, despite every single one of these to date having gone great with no issues.

>>50264947
What could possibly happen?

>>50264947
Hence the organiser's advice of "between 10-15" which is sound for someone frisky like you. A little Character is the right kind of things, around 20 is perfect for a nice gift if you're scared.

If you don't get anything, well shit, that happens but you wouldn't lose much, and apart from some people not getting anything, I didn't hear about anyone getting into troubles after that.

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Working on converting some Space Wolves into Skyrar's Dark Wolves. I just got a shit ton more chaos bits so, it should be a good night.

>>50264969
I just have this fear that if I give my address that either someone will smash up my place, or they will mail me turds, infected sharps, rotting meat, etc.

and of course if I give my work address they will write "DILDOS" all over the box and probably still but all the above in it.

>>50264995
Not getting anything in return is the least of my fears.

>>50265026
Broski, there's a thing called a PO Box if you're worried about it.

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>>50257245
They're pretty small. I wanted to use some for Scouts but they look apish for them too.

>>50265026
I'm reasonably confident sociopaths aren't actively participating in a niche thread for a fairly niche hobby on a Vietnamese Karaoke hosting site

>>50264418

Painting doesn't sound that bad to be honest but I don't know yet, haven't tried it. Looks kinda fun.

Gluing them is a real pain in the ass though. Also, I'm sure inhaling that shit can't be good for you. My whole room smelled of glue after was I done so I had to open the windows.

>>50258386
Try CSM. Plenty of spikes to practice detail work, yet with some of the open space of normal marines.

>>50265073
I know it isn't likely at all, but somehow when these things happen, it is always to me.

It is a bit of an unreasonable fear I think.

>>50265051
Seems like a waste to set up a PO box for one package.

>>50265106
That you TJ?

>>50265106
>>50265026
No offense Anon, but it sounds like you suffer from paranoia.
But nobody forces you to participate if you don't like.

>>50265098
Lol, man, yeah, good ventilation is a must. Unless you want to see the models coming to life and talking to you!

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Finished my immortals. Any CC welcome.

One thing to note: I did the OSL with a fluorescent paint and those don't play well with cameras - irl the light sources are highlighter-like orange and the actual OSL is much "dimmer" - no yellow there, regardles of what it looks like in the pic.

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Thinking of changing the head?

>>50265363
those guns are sexy as hell but I gotta ask- any intention to make the crons themselves not look so flat? Maybe some nuln oil or something to make the details and recesses pop a bit?

>>50265429
The head doesn't really match the overall organic shape of the model. Though once it's painted it might blend better, look more like a helmet.

Also the mold line on the gun is killing me.

>>50265363

As >>50265459 said, great guns, the necrons themselves are a bit flat. Shade them and maybe add a highlight after.

>>50265363
They could really use a recess wash of the silver.

>>50265459
>>50265485
>>50265493
>>50265459
Thanks. Any idea what to do with them? What I did was gunmetal -> nuln oil -> silver drybrush. Thinking of painting the shoulderpads teal, which is my army's secondary color.

>>50263105
This gave me hope. I thought my painting was just shit, and would never get better. Even when he was shit, Duncan still managed to teach me something...

>>50265538
There is always room to grow.

>>50265537
Do a wash of nul oil or agrax earthsahde in the recesses. Adding some color to the shoulder pads might also do you some good. I might add that things like bronze or gold accent panels tend to make silver models look really good, though you can't have it clashing with your color scheme.

>>50265537
Re-apply the nuln oil to recesses will probably do you some good.

The way I do my crons for table-top standard is simple- Prime black, coat in leadbelcher, dry brush ironbreaker, nuln oil the whole thing, super light secnd drybrush of ironbreaker on the sheer pannels but not the skeleton-y bits.

>>50265538
I know that same feel anon, I feel like there should be a before and after pic with this

>>50265537

I'd paint black or brown wash into the recesses to give the models more definition.

Using brown, sepia and even green washes here and there can give a realistic appearance while still keeping the look clean.

>>50265363
How about painting the shouldes black and using some of the included glyph transfers?
But giving the armor joins another wash would definitely help too.

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>>50265593
The have one of his more recent models in the article. Pic related. He plans on doing a whole army of space marines in the same colour as his first though

>>50265655
See, I hate that model, but damn is it well painted.

>>50265683
That's our Dunc

>>50265363
Really cool anon, its hard to make necrons look exciting but you made it.

>>50265363
You literally airbrushed metal and orange with some yellow

>>50265655
THICC

new thred when

>>50260672

No, they contained the regular plastic/resin models that you could also buy in a separate box. Just the regular models you could normally buy.

The shit they put in these boxes however was pure shit. Never during my years as a wargamer has I encountered crap material and quality such as this. And they did so, while at the same time ensuring their customers it was the same models as before, just added color.

>Troll caster

Yes, he looks great. In fact, many of the new models looks great... when you look at the box. Its not the concept but the quality I'm complaining about here.

>>50259665

Pure sex. Stealing this.

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>>50265363

As other anons have pointed out. To airbrush 100% of a model isn't actually finished.
You did the base, skipped all the middle steps (hell, you didn't even bother to wash the metal or edge it!) and then hit it with OSL.

What you need to do with next squad is this.
After metal, wash. This is a major part of making metal come alive, to get definition to all the cracks and lines running through the model. Then you highlight it, I personally prefer the traditional drybrush when it comes to pure metal models such as the crons (even though I to own an airbrush). You get great depth and can easily control the flow of light, from dark metal straight up to almost silver. And then you hit it with straight edge silver.
This will solve a LOT of the problems several anons have already pointed out, your models looks flat, you have absolutely no depth to the actual figure. And while it might look bitching from across the table, you, me and your opponents know its just a beginners trick to create a illusion of an awesome paintjob. And it only works when you stay 1m across a table as well.

After metal is done, it is after all 90% of the models surface, so it should be done well! Hit it with some weathering powders down at the feat man! An army that has walked through the dusty dessert surely must have collected at least some sand on the legs. No need to go ballistic on the weathering unless you don't want to, but just do something to integrate the models to the base, so it wont appear they just got there.

Then you do this awesome OSL that your obviously talented in.
Now, re-post on /wip/ and see the change in comments! Because if there is one thing we anons hate more then new players destroying good miniatures with thick paint, its new players saying "there, I'm done" when you can clearly see they didn't use anything beyond an airbrush! Its a tool, just like anything else in your arsenal, use it for what its good at, nothing else.

>>50266246
>You literally airbrushed something
And that's the 2016's standard for you.

>>50267447

Long way from it. Thats 2010 for you right there. You know when the AB hit the grid for the common man, and every new kid to the hobby would get one.

Now days though, there are still a few misguided fools left, thinking the AB to be a "all in one tool". but one visit to /wip/ and they will get things right.

Take the Orruk above for instance, its airbrushed, to a degree. But its also drybrushed, edged, shaded, highlighted and so on, with traditional brush. The airbrush did the job it does best, blending colors, in this case the skin.

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>Do you love me brother?

>>50267590
Really cool Anon. I love your color scheme and also the old minis.

Are both of them WIP in different states?

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>>50267617
Thanks! And yes, the left one is finished, the right one is working on finishing touches and basing.
Heres about half the batch as of recent

>>50267638


You missed the straps on his bedroll then.
Are they recasts or originals?

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>>50267590
>Be strong, Clarence. Be strong for mother.