WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

>>50283867
Still looking for guidance.

>>50285197
thin your paints - if vallejo paints are at once both too thick and too thin, you probably didn't shake them enough. Vallejo dropper bottles are notorious for being difficult to shake up well, but you can pull off the dropper top and drop a pebble or something into the bottle to make it easier. Or just shake it super vigorously for a long time..

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Wip on the Kingdom Death messenger of humanity

>>50285229
I never once felt that the paints were too thick, and the consistency was even.
I did thin them, but then they mostly bled and spread everywhere like water and didn't cover for shit. I had assumed when you do things correctly a base coat is solid in 2 layers from the videos I saw, and it took many more.
Last thread someone suggested I had my brush too wet, as I would dip the full brush into water before taking it to the palette about every other time.

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Gonna grind some rocks and people on the tabletop.
Not 100% sure on how I should do the windows. I know I wanted them red, but what effect?

>>50285377
The symptoms of Vallejo I've noticed from it not being shaken enough is it thins too easily, but leaves thick brush marks on the model, which sounds like what you are experiencing.

Properly mixed paint with the right amount of water shouldn't run or leave brush marks - coverage may not be 100%, but there should be no running or brush marks.

For all the shit GW gets, and regardless of whether they deserve it or not, their paints are very beginner friendly.

As for the brush being too wet, it can happen. Different brushes suck up water from the cup at different rates and big brushes will hold onto more water than smaller ones. A paper towel can help dry your brush if you think it could be too wet.

Thinning paint perfectly is something with no magic ratio. Every bottle of paint will be different based on the brand, color, age, etc, so you will have to practice and judge when it is the perfect thickness. Don't get discouraged!

If you want to try again without buying a new model, you can remove the paint with a short soak in Rubbing Alcohol and an old toothbrush.

>>50285475
If that's the case, I'll have to shake much more vigorously next time. The bottles just said to shake, not shake well or for any duration, so I only gave them 5-10 seconds.
I probably won't strip this mini, it's for one of my players who helped gauge the colors and he's enthused with it. I've got a box full of others to practice on, though.

>>50285599
best of luck anon

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Figured I may as well post these again since they are my latest completion. Some Brutes ready for choppin.

>>50285257
Im going off topic here but his pose looks like something out of JoJo's Bizarre Adventure and his sword looks like something from Berserk, great job man.

>>50285377
If you find it too thin to stick, just add a brush worth of fresh paint back to it and you should be good.

I almost always add too much water and have to do just that.

I was stripping some secondhand minis of their paint and the primer seems like it may have actually seeped INTO the plastic... it's metallic gold and I was planning on painting the minis with a base coat of PP Cold Steel.
Does it sound like I'm gonna have a problem, or should I be alright?

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>>50285916

You're not wrong there. He is supposed to be not!Guts from Berserk

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What size magnets do you guys recommend for magnetizing bullgryn? Particularly the shields.

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So here is the starweaver I have been working on. Not sure if you guys can tell I was trying a space/galaxy theme.

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>>50286076
That is green and this side is purple. My troupes are going to be green and purple.

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highlighted the gold with silver to show the models lighting. still a ways to go.

So, the more that I work with it, the more I hate my current color scheme. What would work as a good sept color to accent Stegadon Scale Green, Leadbelcher, and black? I've been using red for Vior'la and I HAVE to stop after this model.

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A friend recommended I get some of this for model assembly. I'm doing Warhammer minis.

Should I? Someone else told me to just get some Gorilla Glue superglue, which would certainly be cheaper. I don't really want to make a $5 difference ruin $150 worth of models however.

Also, any brush brand recommendations?

>>50286765
don't use CA glue on plastic models

also don't use the thickest of all glues don't fall for the stupid gorilla meme

>>50286765
just use something like GW's plastic glue if you're unsure

>>50286877
So in other words the Testors is a good buy?

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Grimy suit is way too grimy. Anyone have any idea how the hell to paint proper rust/weathering on one of these? Typhus Corrosion is how Duncan does it in his guide, but "paint into recesses"- there AREN'T recesses on this thing.

Also, I'm >>50286317 and still looking for input.

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So I picked up a box of Demigyrph knights, cuz i think they look damn cool, and I wanted to do at least one in the royal altdorf gyrphites' scheme, pic related

They mounts are a mix of snow leopards and a gray raptor head. I figured a wash on the head would get some nice texturing but anyone have tips for getting the spots to look like not shit?

>>50286895
I've heard good things about the testors model masters but haven't used it personally

I use tamiya myself because I like the brush applicator over the nozzle.

>>50286994
Which Tamiya? The Extra thin or the normal?

>>50287103
normal is easier to use but extra thin is good for extreme precision

this is a video that shows both
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TwFxTEUf2s

when working with plastic cement be careful not to apply too much, and open a window - huffing the chemicals in plastic cement causes severe nerve damage

is there a torrent up for the painting guide for BoP?

>>50286947
Wet blending is the only tip I can give you. Just do the spots while the paint is still drying so there is a bit of transition on it.

Does anyone know where I could find assembly instructions for ork mek gunz?

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tell me...you're thinning your paints, right anon?

>>50287515
WHERE WAS THIS PICTURE FROM???

>>50287515
My paints are thinning themselves.

Seriously, I don't know what it is you guys do that needs them thinned down so much; well-shaken, out of the pot, my base paints come out like a shade. All of them.

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I tried to do some research on old grandma titties. I don't think it really helped with the painting so far...

>>50287657
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJEkGExjHcc

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>>50287801

>>50285257
love it mate. are those 28mm? i want that in my frostgrave band

>>50286765
I suggest superglue brand superglue gel. It doesn't bind to oily surfaces unlike most other superglues, so you won't spend hours trying to remove any that gets on your fingers.

Gorilla Glue is the wrong tool for the job no at any rate.

>>50288048
Kingdom Death is 30mm, and that model was a kickstarter-only promo model.

You'll have to go to ebay for it, but be prepared for bootlegs.

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Iron hands for 30k, trying to sort out the armour, got some semblance of the FW oil stained look but it's not where I want it to be, got a can of Tamiya smoke spray coming and that might be what it needs

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>>50288439
it doesn't show up well in the photos but there is a gradient in spots around the model

>>>50281686
>>>50281740
I already used washes before I took that pic. Should I use more?

>>50286877
>also don't use the thickest of all glues don't fall for the stupid gorilla meme
The properties of CA glue change significantly with viscosity. The thinner it is the stronger the bond. The thicker it is, the more shock resistant the bond is. Really thick CA is appropriate sometimes but it's definitely not general purpose.

Also be aware that thicker CA has a shorter shelf life - about 3months unrefridgerated for regular CA gel, less for really thick stuff.

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>>50285257
Duuuuuude nice work :) keep on keepin' on postin, love seeing other/more KDM stuff. I wish I had him T-T

I've been on 12hr days at work for awhile now, not been able to paint, cant wait until Dec. to git goin. Got all this (and more as this is old photo) primed and ready!

progress log for today
>found an old conversion of mine, fixed it up a bit, slopped it on a base. It will be my third obliterator.
>put hella shade all over the four marines and rhino. This actually took a really long time to shade that whole tank!

Tomorrow I will start going at base coating all the browns and silvers, and ponder a bit as how best to proceed with the 25 cultists that have their base color applied but nothing else (hint, slather tons of agrax earthshade all over everything)

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Fuck metal PP models.

I have a bunch of old Legion shit that I decided to fix up and put back together.

I figured I'd start with my Scythean. Everything is warped, glue doesn't stick, and it broke my drill bit when I tried to pin it. Even then, the shit I pinned didn't stick. There's also a fuckhuge gap connecting the torso to the legs. Pic related.

Fuck this shit.

I'm broke as shit. Is their anything besides the speedstick land speeder, the diy baneblade and gobsmasha tanks that have offical GW scratch building instructions?

>>50285955
It's possible, though unlikely that they used vinyl die.

>>50289172
Posting what I have. I'm even interested in non GW stuff. pls help. I play orks and chaos, if it matters.

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>>50289197

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>>50289208

>>50286249

Show more anon, it looks great, if a bit flat. Must be the camera.

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Please assist, fellow anons. I'm poor as shit and out of plasticard, plasticard rods, and greenstuff and feel the need to build.

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The more I work on these guys, the more I realize that I kind of prefer them without camo.

Also, I really need help working on faces, I just cannot get eyes down. Are there any good video tutorials out there? I have read a few but I tend to do better by watching someone do something like this. Thankfully most models have helmets but a few have bare heads and theyll have to be done properly.

>>50285463
nice, those came out clean

>>50289391
also these are still very much in progress, only the two middle guys are even remotely close to being done. Still got a lot of weathering and highlighting to do, and the faces obviously.

>>50286765
LOCTITE
O
C
T
I
T
E


seriously just go to Walmart and get loctite super glue. Thank me later

>>50289265
Paper hammer it faggot

>>50289484
that's what i'm doing you dumb nigger.

>>50289501
So how can we assist you then?

>>50289532
I was asking for more scratchbuilding instructions, done by heavy metal or GW

>>50289471
>memeing
>using CA glue on plastic models
pls anon you are better than this

Asked last night at hhg, but since no one answered, I will try my luck here. In fact, I think I should have asked here first.

>>50282484

>>50289550
Don't have any of those, but I can give some advice:
Check out armormans thread on eli pataroch (just search in google) for templates of every imperial vehicle and a few xeno ones to loot, and ALWAYS chip and rivet your scratch builds. If you are working in paper and cardboard the cardboard can be 'chipped' with a pair of small scissors while square rivets can be made by cutting tiny squares from cardboard and glueing them where needed. Best of luck anon and remember to post progress!

>>50289471
Actually I use loctite too. The bottle is amazing. Doesn't dry out or get stuck. The applicator allows you to get the right amount out. 100% agree with this anon. Also if you use the right amount supergluing plastics is fine. It's a lot stronger bond. Only tricky thing is if you have two gun peices that link like nid or necron guns for example. But once you get the hang of it its great.
>>50289613

>>50289182
Okay, but is there going to be a problem with me painting over it? Should I prime again just in case, or would that just make more problems?

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>>50289677
I recently made a trukk.
I'm not the best scratch builder or mini painter, but I like what I did.

>>50289700
No problem whatsoever omae

>>50289702
The trukk looks swell anon. Do you want critique on it?

>>50289719
Feel free to give me some, always looking to improve on my scratchbuilds Shitty lighting because it's 3 am and I know I still need to finish my yellow, but these things take many, many layers.

>>50289728
The only big things I can really see are chipping and minor detail like armour bolted on the wheels and stupid wee stuff like door hinges and crap. Other than that its a solid build.

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Reposting. I think i missed the last thread but whatever.

>>50289102
That spider monster thing in the middle... paint that one first. It looks so cool

>>50289391
Eyes are barely visible at that scale Anon.
Besides, these guys wear helmets which casts a shadow over their eyes anyway. Especially if you look on them from above, like from a tabletop point of view.
I wouldn't bother with eyes and just use a brown or flesh wash for the faces.

>>50289678
>It's a lot stronger bond.

Its fucking not.

>>50275898
>>50275904

You are a good painter but you really need to start using glaze medium to soften those layers.

>>50285463

I'd go for dark and reflective

>>50286065

! already means "the opposite of" when put in front of a name/variable, so that's a !negative.

any guides for painting 30k thousand sons?

>>50286933
Check this tutorial, it was of great help when i paint some tau suits.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kasEpLchmCI

>>50290154
there should be the painting guide coming with Burning of Prospero somewhere around.

>>50285871
I think you dont get many responses as they are really solid, but nothing extraordinary. I guess they're going to be played, and on the tabletop they will look really cool. The claw of the ork in the middle looks kinda flat, but that may be the photo.

>>50290215

Gave an expansive reply a couple of threads ago, maybe 4 at this point. I've seen no changes since.

>can spend 90 dollars on Legion with sub
>or buy 2 trukks
Fuck

>>50286249
arms look really thin and weird like something made of cereal boxes. also a bit flat but like other anon said could be the camera

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Hi, I'm looking to repaint my old Emperors Children I painted 8 years ago in a better color scheme, kinda like pic related. Less pink, more flesh colored, can someone help me out what color they might have used for this?

>>50290457
I don't know if GW has ever done a noise marine tutorial, but I'd imagine that's pink on top of a yellow or orange base.

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>>50290648
Thanks, I think you're close, pic related seems to be my answer.

>>50290215
this is really beyond tabletop level when you look at what most people will throw together before they play. its way beyond a 3 color minimum with solid highlighting and shading, and good base effects. some people cant even prime their minis before they play with them

>>50291208
They're good tabletop standard, nothing more. If you want to argue that some people don't even bring painted models, then you are quite retarded.

That's the thing with /wip/, though, great models get lots of comments and subpar models get lots of comments. Average, as these are, don't get too many. Especially as OP didn't even say what areas he's unsure of. If he chimed in and said: 'Tips on red armor/on waethering/whatever', one could give better advice.

I know nothing about historical wargaming, so I ask you, /wip/, are there any good celt/gaul models around? Romans acceptable in a pinch.

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Not a very good picture, from a not very good phone. But a good idea of what the colors and appearance of this army in progress is. Only problem is under artificial light, the bases (black) can look really shiny, which is ugly. Not sure how to fix.

>>50291336
There is /hwg/ (historical wargames general). I assume they are the experts.

My little advise: Check Warlord Games "Hail Caesar" range. they should have some minis. If there are other, better minis on the market somewhere.. idk.

https://store.warlordgames.com/collections/gallic-celts

Some stuff is plastic, others are metal.

>>50291366
Thanks, mang.

>>50285257

I'm not a big fan of over the top OSL, but that lantern screams for a glow effect! If you don't know how, learn fast, because it (to me at least) brings down the model. Now you have a yellow painted can, with a tint of glow on the edges of the lantern, cape, and the closest part of his pants, you got an actual candle inside!

>>50285463

Real nice anon, clean and straight. You worked wonders with that edge highlight as well, really getting some definition out of all those edges, combined with that fine line shading, looks really great!

I would go for a classical glass/ruby effect. From dark, almost black, to orange/yellow, then a tint of white dot at the corner of black/brown to finish the effect.

>>50285871

And again, same comment as before. The unit looks good, but;
You need some blood on those axes, now stop being lazy and get some Blood for the Bloodgod!
And stop fishing for compliments, because this is all you will get until then.

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Latest hormagaunt, I'm only working with about 8 different paints. Thoughts?

>>50288439
>>50288450
That's looking good anon. I'm gonna be trying glazes to get that FW effect soon for the mkiii I have. Looking forward to seeing more IH

>>50291333
then /wip/ is shit. id love to see more "tabletop standard" finished armies posted to this thread. its nice to get a good high quality, golden daemon tier NMM masterpiece every once in a while, but its also good to see people have the balls and the patience to finish their models, to be proud of their work and to want to show it off. i wasn't here to see if he posted this image 3 or 4 times before, but its heartening to see someone working towards completing their project.

>>50291657
claws could use some highlights.

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>>50291922
>then /wip/ is shit.

Remember where you are, anon. Even idiots can get driver's licenses, and chances are you're going to have to share the road with them sooner or later.

>id love to see more "tabletop standard" finished armies posted to this thread.

I think I can help you there, but... is any army ever truly "finished"?

>>50292104
I wish I could stick to one game, one faction and one army.

>>50292033
What could I use to highlight Abaddon Black? I ended up using the 'Ardcoat to gloss it, mostly because I like the texture.

>>50292209
Eshin Grey

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>>50292209
Eshin Gray with an extreme highlight of Dawnstone is my go to for black. (On the backs and sides of the legs in the image.)

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>>50291922

I don't necessarily think that you get lower comments on average painting. Its all up to what your question is.
If your only in it to fish complements, then post a pic without any text to it, your in for some disappointment.
But if you, like many, posts a picture of "look what I just painted, what do you think?" or "any tips on how to paint XXXX?", you can be sure to get comments in a moderate amount.

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>>50292413
White balancing or color correction in the software of your choice can really help with those tinted pics.

>>50292542
Yeah, I prefer to thin my paints digitally in post myself.

>>50292104
Pretty sure you could feature in WD if you tried.

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>>50291922
>id love to see more "tabletop standard" finished armies posted to this thread.
Here you go.

I need to update the pic of my Tau, it's about 3x that size now.

>>50292783
Actually, I need to update all of them. The difference between the knights (taken with a DSLR) and the rest is massive.

>>50286765
I use this glue and I swear I've used the same bottle for probably 5 years now and it's still going strong

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>>50291922
Here's my most recently finished army. I'm now doing 35 corsairs out of the sisters of silence kit but planet coaster has taken precedence over conversions

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>>50292818
And here are the in progress corsairs I've done so far. No progress for around two weeks but I've had lesson plans and mock-OFSTED inspections to deal with.
Do these look ok or shall I change anything before I start priming and basing?

>>50292542

Thanks anon, it always bugged me that my photos got so bad after my lightbox got broken (I accidently sat down my fat ass on it...). This is just taken with a sheet of paper, unfortunately with not enough light!

Can I correct this in a program such as Photoshop? I never got around to be any good with that software, part from re-scaling and cutting.

>>50290397
You're not missing much by not playing WoW, to be honest.

Also you can save money on trukks by buying online instead of GW retail price. I know thewarstore has 20%-off standard for GW products with like $7 flat-priced shipping. (and that's before any seasonal/event discounts)

>>50293065
>Can I correct this in a program such as Photoshop? I never got around to be any good with that software, part from re-scaling and cutting.
You definitely could. The color correction and auto levels features of PS are pretty good.
The image I posted was just done with Irfan View's auto adjust feature though.
You don't really need to dive into the channel mixers yourself usually, unless you have a really bad picture.

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>>50291922
>id love to see more "tabletop standard" finished armies posted to this thread.

Here is my finished early war germans for Bolt Action. Did them around 2 weeks ago.

Not on the pic is a truck and a light at-gun. The gun needs its crew to be painted and the truck lacks its driver.

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>>50291922
IG armored battlegroup. though this an old picture.

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Ayy,
Where can a nigga grab himself some cheap rocks/stones? I'm trying to bypass using any base/modeling product from GW as much as possible.

>>50293368
Nature?

>>50293368
Loot them from neighbors' yards or just from outside in general.

Hey WIP I got a question, it might be a little silly so sorry in advance

I just got my chaos black spray paint and was wondering what is the best way to use it on my miniatures. Also where im from its pretty cold outside right now so should I spray paint inside or outside?

>>50292300
anon, what shapeways dude did you get the imp fists pauldrons from?

>>50289678
>Actually I use loctite too. The bottle is amazing. Doesn't dry out or get stuck.
I have two bottles of loctite that are completely crusted over and barely usable despite half the bottle still being there.

>>50291436
Thanks. That's from learning to clean up your edges after a light drybrush.
I think I'll do that. Might have it more red than black, but I'll test out, figure what I like best, then post results.

>>50289140
Greensburg my friend.

>>50289140
The gaps on Privateer Press models are practically a meme in and of itself.
See "The Khador Gap" for the most well known example.
But like >>50294396 is trying to tell you, use greenstuff (or similar putties) to fill the gaps.
Greenstuff is strong enough to serve as actual structural support in most cases, it doesn't replace pinning, but it can definitely augment it.

When stripping plastic minis with simple green, how long do you soak them? Do they need to be scrubbed or just washed afterwards?

>>50294513
>>50294396
Holy fuck I'm a retard. Why the fuck did I just suggest Greensburg?

>>50293186
you can achieve similar results with any basic editor that comes with your computer. Like the Photo app on windows, do basic white balance and add more light.

>>50293065
I do my colour correction in GIMP 2.0. It's not as good as Photoshop but it's decent and free.

>>50294626
I assumed you posted from your phone or tablet and the auto-correct ate the Greenstuff.

Where can I get very fine chain links? Like a necklace's chain but small enough to be chain on my miniatures?

>>50294707
Specialist hobby shops or craft stores.

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last 4 grots are done, besides the last runtherda I am finally finished with something in my ork army. Playing with bases now.

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>>50295116
family shot of my grots

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I'm not sure what I want to do with the brain part. Any suggestions? I was thinking a contrasting color or something but that might look weird.

>>50295154
personally I would go with a pinkish color. It would certainly pop against the blues.

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>>50285167
started to paint my lorgar, aiming for a crimson and silver NMM armor

>>50295154
brain matter is a little pinkish grey IRL, so emphasise the grey a little for the whorls and maybe wash the folds with a cold pink maybe?

more of a higher-level question

do you guys have any sites or architecture books/PDFs that you guys used when making terrain for ideas/historical refrences?

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Master of ordnance dry fit. Unsure about which head and arms to use. Thoughts?

I'll likely trim down the big pole a bit too.

>>50295577

Good so far, but yeah that pole needs to be shortened a bit.

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Asked a friend to paint one of my whacky ork vehicles, did a fantastic job.

>>50293368
>Anon has spent so little time outside that he forgets that that's where the rocks are.
RIP

>>50292783
that's a lot of money...

>>50286076
>>50286089
This looks really fucking nice, and the galaxy theme comes through loud and clear. I always get angry about how fucking easy and nice airbrushing looks but why the fuck do I care? I insist on using a regular brush but so what, I have the same problem with digital art pens and those tablets illustrators use. I don't know what my problem is.

Anyways, This looks really fucking good and it makes me excited to work on my corsairs project (which I want to be bright psychedelic colors) because you obviously get why space elves should have batshit glaring colors

>>50287779
You're relying heavily on drybrushing. No amount of titty research will help you when you over-apply a technique that, while appealing to newbies, is actually really difficult to use effectively

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I need a second opinion on the skin tone I'm testing out before I strip and repaint all my orks. Am I crazy for liking the way the flesh wash looks on the skin? I need to blind the colors little better but I like the direction it's going personally.

>>50295191
Looks fucking hot so far. Is there a method to the madness of people who are really good at NMM/blending (like yourself) working on a tiny area at a time? It seems inefficient but many appear to do it.

>>50296212
looks good to me. the flesh wash does give it a bit more tone, I like it.

>>50296212
it needs to be greener. get rid of the white

>>50296212
At this distance I like it a lot as well. The only hiccup I can imagine is it looking too same-y and washed out from a distance with the clothes and weapons also being very dun-colored and weathered. Thoughtful use of spot-coloring could probably offset this

>>50296212
sweet orcs that flesh wask is looking great

and the shoota too what metallics did you use?

Am I supposed to be painting the wash in into recesses or just smearing it all over and then reapplying a base paint on the flat parts?

>>50296327
>>50296337
>>50296343
Thanks, I'll keep working on it. It seems like I’m heading in the right direction in achieving a unique skin tone. It's been kinda fun experimenting.


>>50296444
>what metallics did you use
For the shoota I based gunmetal, then sponged on magic blue, highlighted electric blue, layered dry pigments, finally light dry brush of silver. All Vallejo products.

>>50296489
honestly it might just depend on your style of painting. I see advanced painters do either.

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Working on my 2nd edition metal Dreadnought. Mostly for fun and for display, I doubt it will actually be put on the table in a game, at least not while I own it.

Hopefully I can start working on my first Knight's armour plates tomorrow.

>>50296574
2e Ultras generally have garish yellow or red details. I mean, if you want to go for period look.

>>50296620
I know, and I'm not. I think they look horrid, if charming.

>>50294396
I need like a pound of the shit, and I need to replace my bit to boot. I'm just going to dunk the shit in acetone or something and start fresh, though idk what to do about the holes that are already there.

I'm ready to write it off and/or put them back on the shelf because I don't even have anyone to play with. However, I might be too stubborn for that.

I have Liquitex brush-on matte varnish. Are there any pit-falls for techniques I should remember while varnishing so I don't fuck up my figures?

>>50293368

You could try aquarium gravel. Comes in a lot of different grades and is dirt cheap. Go to your local pet shop.

>>50296152
It's more impressive they're painted. I easily have that much but fuck me if a third is finished.

How do you lads deal with resin bases? I just got some for my Bangles, but I take it they need primed like anything else before painting?

Any color suggestions for the base drybrush and the highlights on the armor?
Loren forest seems a little too bright l.

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>>50295577
Update. Still have no goddamn clue what to use for the left arm.

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>>50296897

>>50296899
The whitetac made me think this was a Slaanesh model of a poor Guardsman featuring in a tentacle porn video.

>>50296736
Nah there's nothing you can really do wrong with it. just don't put a fuckton of it on everything or it will take forever to dry

>>50296897
Then darken your loren forest down until you like it.

>>50296796
>but I take it they need primed like anything else before painting?

Exactly.

It wouldn't hurt if you wash them in warm soapy water before that, just in case there are some remains from the casting process.

I'm restocking my paints. My LGS doesn't have ratflesh or whatever it is.

What's a good base and layer for flesh that isn't rat? Is Bugman good?

Also, do I need the Reikland shade, or can I use Nulin?

>>50297066
just order them, then get them shipped.

>>50297184

That doesn't help me right now. I'm going to be painting at the shop.

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Some progress I made while painting fire on my first hexwraiths.
Also they were respectively my 4th, 5th, 6th and 7th miniatures ever.

Left is older, roght is newer.

>>50297066
For Flesh, don't use Nuln oil.

If anything, (and you don't have a proper Fleshshade) use either Sepia, Brown (Agrax) or a red shade.

>>50297368
Also sorry for shit quality, flash and everything. This is the best I could do right now. Will probably post a better picture tomorrow.

>>50296899
All his blingy shit just makes him look like an imperium ork. You've gone overboard IMO

>>50296314
as far as blending techniques are concerned, for small areas like that I like to use a kind of wet blending in which you use two colors at the same time in a single brush, this is a technique from ben komets and is explained in the painting buddha videos in youtube, small fixes can be done later using glazes to smooth it out further, it's a super fast technique too, specially compared to the classic layering, and more precise than two brushes wet blending as you dont have to do brush aerobics

painting area by area is just preference, I like to get a feel of progress while painting single models and also have a view of the final look of each area, that way I can correct what I don't like from the start before I fuck up the whole model, also it's a lot easier to do this when you use a wet palette

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>>50295188
>>50295192
yeah I think that works.

>>50297533
lookin' good!

>>50288012
When the paint is thinned juuuuust like that

>>50291397
That's the plan. I've done OSL on all my survivors before, but I need to wait until I have completed the rest so I can apply the OSL as a highlight to the true colours.

This may be a dumb question, but if I am painting a part of a model that is black, and the model itself is primed black, how do I base said section?

>>50298757
Base it with a different black than the primer. It may seem like a weird thing to do, but if you make a mistake and need to neaten up, it would look terrible if you only then used the base.

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>>50298905

I tried taking a pic to show, but I'm not at home. I'm actually at the card shop. The lighting is fine for painting, but not pictures apparently.

This is the best I could get. I'm obviously not done basing, and its a test model atm.

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>>50296212
Take two. Achieved a more gradual transition from flesh wash to green. Less white more green. Also brightened up the clothes and straps to help contrast the skin. I,ll sleep on it for now but I think I found the skin tone I want to repaint my army with.

>>50299496
I want the booty. Give me the booty.

In all seriousness it looks nice but could probably use a bit more contrast between the highlight and basecoated areas. Maybe your lightning set up doesn't show it off well?

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My sisters of silence prototypes so far. playing around with some airbrush and wetblending things

>>50299876
the fur cape doesn't really look... furry? It looks wet.

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>>50299998
going for something like this

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I thought I'd do something fun for my favourite mummy space frog even though I'm just starting out.

>>50300024
that's really cool!

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Looking for some criticism and thoughts. Took an anons advice from a few threads ago with layer my highlights and try to have it all blend smoothly. I am happy with how my layers have turned out here but am just wondering if it's "good." First layer is Eshin Grey, then a thin layer of Dawnstone, and finally Administratum Grey on the corners, just where the light would directly hit. Also I done fucked up the face. Eyes were a big issue and I have gone back and forth trying to fix it I don't know if it's worth it anymore. Idea was to get this guy looking like he was deep in the Black Rage, hence the blood at his mouth and I tried to give him blood shot eyes. However it came out too pink so I just went with white.

>>50300146
It's perfect. He looks like he took some bath salts and ate someone's face off. The rest of the model looks super fucking sexy though.

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Tried to go for a Bloody Rose, though the reds turns out kinda pink.

>>50300210
Thanks, Though still unsure of the face. I am considering putting some Blood For the Blood God on a tooth brush and flicking some on the front of his armor to look like he was doing a lot of rip and tearing.

>>50299041
Yeah. Sorry if I'm late. What I do is straight from the Gospel of Rhodes. I paint an Abaddon Black base over the Chaos Black primer, and then layer over that, touching up with Abaddon if I fuck up.

>>50300246
I'm unsure about that too. Don't want to go overboard with blood, but you don't want him to look like he got punched in the face and is bleeding from that.

>>50300229
What red is that? How thin are you getting your paints? How many layers are you using? Are your brushes new?

>>50300289
Fair point, I am gonna do some blood paint on his chain sword so I'll see how that turns out. Right now I am trying to figure out how to give the blood shot eyes look.

>>50299876

Fuck me that's good. Makes me feel all the worse for my own crappy painting.

>>50300273

No problem. The end result is up there a little. That's basic lay what I did.

>>50300316

Brushes are new, I'm trying out my first wet pallet, the paints are fairly thin, and it's about 6 layers.

The red is Khorne and wazdakka.

>>50300146
the armor looks good. eyes, not so much.

>>50300404

https://youtu.be/QtYFoY7Z700

just copped a youtube tutorial mang, I am shit as well (but trying to improve)

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Ultra potato quality pic!

>>50300146
Cocaine is a hell of a drug.

>>50300448
Thanks, and I agree, trying to fix the eyes. maybe with just some more wash around the edge. I don't know.

>>50300501
More like Blood Angel Gene-Seed is a hell of a mutation.

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doing Kill Team box tac squad as grey hunters

>>50300789
Looks sexy.

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this stuff much of a difference vs water?

>>50300789
>old school spess wolves

I'll allow it

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>>50300954
the upgrade sprue was a bit disappointing to say the least

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Alright sluts, post what you're working on tonight.

>>50300862
huge.

for one, water may bring pigments back a bit in a dry bottle, but it actually dries out paint faster.

this is what they actually use to mix in with pigment for paint. stays fresh alot longer. also you can get like a lifetime supply from michaels for like 10 bucks Look for liquitex professional matte medium. never use water again.

>>50289764
How may people are doing this?
I have a real job now, so it might be fun.

>>50301332
>liquitex professional matte medium

thanks just ordered a bottle

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>>50301145
not very interesting

>>50301471
What do you use for those metal poles?

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i got some more done on my Custodes today.

Still have all the silver to paint, gems to do, energy weapon stuff, big cleanup etc etc.

>>50301518
chopped up jumbo paper clip. Either that or bog standard nails.

>>50301145
Trying to decide if I'm going to paint my Doom Eagle vehicles black like their backpacks, or silver like their armor. Any suggestions?

>>50301566
What colours did you use for the white on the standard and shield?

>>50300862
You can make any colour into a wash/glaze as well. especially if you don't want to buy a whole bottle of wash for weird shades like purple, pink, orange. Just thin down the paint with thinner till it's kind of translucent like skim milk.

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>>50301145 (You)
Applied some skill oil.

>>50301728
You could do silver in the majority and black accents, or vice-versa.

>>50301576
Makes sense, thanks.

>>50300789

>they're all dancing

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>>50301145

>>50300229 here.

I started on my second model.

Now that I'm home and not at the shop, I can get a better picture with proper light.

This is base coated and washed.

>>50300291

>>50300407 was meant for you.

What's the best way to paint the inside of Skitarii cloaks on fully assembled models? Ebay is a gift for money but a curse for painting.

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New to 40k, this is my allies to my SoB list, picked these up for cheap at local FLGS.

I hate painting white, just an FYI.

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>>50302553
Here's their rear, let me know what you think of the dirty cloaks, any points I would appreciate. I will also work on the image size soon.

>>50299496
I love it! looks very fleshy. but i would make older boyz, nobz, and ya waaaghbos darker, to show their age.

>>50300146
NEW REACTION IMAGE! YES!

>>50302462
with force, apply pressure to the hip in twisting motion, snapping the mini.

I'm going to be painting some Eldar and I've decided on going for a bone coloured base but I'm struggling on secondary colours, for robes and cloth I'm probably going to go with a regal purple. I'm not sure if I should just leave the armour plates as mono or add white as a secondary. What colours compliment bone (thinking ushabti bone).

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>>50302062
H-okay. How do I make the marble effect better?

>>50302641
I think in terms of color theory some kind of bright orange (wild rider red, fire dragon bright, etc?) would complement a purple/blue and bone.

>>50302649
I'm not sure that was supposed to be marble. Why would you rivet marble to cross hatched steel flooring?

>>50302707
It wasn't, but I painted the rivets as golden studs instead. I might make the rivets into gems instead.

>>50293212
Come visit me in Ottawa Canada and battle me with that lovely little force.

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>>50299496
B-b-b-but kharki orks is my idea...

Just kidding anon, bit of advice with highlighting though i found that if you add a light skintone like ushabti bone rather than pure white you get a better result.

>>50299496
looks smooth, but needs more contrast imo between the shade and highlight. Maybe one more layer of brighter green just better blended?

>>50302574

Those Fleur-de-Lis look great.

Only criticism of the paintjob is that the colors look a bit stark next to each other, I'd wash em down a bit.

>>50298757
Mixing in a bit of very dark grey in your black, or as dumb as it sounds, a bit of turquoise

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>>50301566
Is he foaming at the mouth on purpose? Also how did you do the eyes?

>>50302062
>>50302649
HEROOO BASESSSS!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1o1r9uUDmoM

>>50303674
>batteries not included

Ok, I smiled.

so how to the fuck i should airbrush /tg/ ??

mix citadel paint with too much thinner
>it comes out too watery
>nozzle gets stuck

mix citadel paint with thinner
>instantly nozzle gets stuck

wtf

>>50303803
What are you using as thinner?

>>50303824
tamiya airbrush thinner or smth like that

>>50303803
Use a wider nozzle.

>>50303831
Tamiya might be cooking off your paint; Tamiya acrylics are alcohol based. Try water first.

>>50303803
I also would appreciate any airbrush tips

getting one for Christmas

>>50303831
>>50303852
This.

Tamiya paint behaves different from others. So their thinner might not work with water based paint.

Try Vallejo Airbrush thinner instead (or use tamiya paint if you want to keep their thinner).

>>50303855
When you get your airbrush, spend a couple of afternoons with a pad of paper and some off the shelf airbrush paint and practice basic shapes with it.
http://www.airbrushtutor.com/airbrush-control-exercises/

>>50303852
thank you
i actually double checked and its x20a thinner, alcohol based, so it might be a problem like you mentioned.
can compressor pressure have an impact? mine runs at 4 kps x 100

>>50303934
Alcohol based thinner will generally wreak havoc on a water based acrylic like GWs, I recommend switching to an acrylic airbrush thinner (Vallejo has one among others).
As for your pressure, that's a little high... 400 KiloPascal is 4 bar, usually you don't go over 2 (ie. 200 KiloPascal).
Your paint might not be dispersing properly at that pressure.

>>50303934
>>50303962
Who's selling regulators that read kPa, and who uses them?

>>50303982
I don't, mine is in Bar, but kPA is simply Bar x 100, so the conversion is easy enough.

>>50303997
Bah, who needs a measurement system based on logic and reason? I prefer arbitrary measures based on sources lost to the annals of time.

>>50293266

nigga, pics on the Vanquisher please! how did you do the camo?

>>50304015
PSI is such a weird unit, but as a Euro I prefer my units to be SI.

>>50303962
thanks, ill switch to water for now and lower the pressure

Any suggested non-spray black primer instead of Chaos Black? I can't use spray paint here

>>50304277
Vallejo Airbrush Surface Primer works fine with a brush.

>>50304285
Thanks, I will check that for sure. What about GW's Abaddon Black, Imperial Black or Imperial Primer?

>>50304299
The first 2 are not primers I believe, and I've not heard much beyond horror stories here about Imperial Primer if I'm honest.

Guys I need a good lamp because it's always dark here so I dont get enough daylight.

Is shelling out on a decent daylight lamp the way to go or can I just use any old lamp and get some kind of specific bulb?

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>>50304731
I use a $7 daylight bulb with architect's lamp I got at wal mart; works for me. I think you're good as long as you can put light on what you're working on.

Trying to align that fucking hand holding a communicator in the Tau Pathfinder box is a bloody nightmare!

Also love how you have to cut off the bottom part of the helmet comms for the head to be anywhere near posable cause its gets in the way of everything on the right side of the head.

>>50304731
Amazon has this one on sale right now.

https://www.amazon.de/TaoTronics-Schreibtischlampe-eingebautem-USB-Anschluss-Smartphones/dp/B00C4PD9BQ/ref=sr_1_14?s=lighting&ie=UTF8&qid=1479568328&sr=1-14&keywords=tischlampe

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Dear /tg/, what do you think of this prototype for Genestealer Cults Neophyte? Is the colour scheme good? Dude too pale?
It's a very cold palette, so I'm thinking too fleshlike colour will not work. Also I plan on playing these alongside full black and glossy Tyranids.
Could use your input, thanks!

>>50303698
Already ordered some. I don't even collect daemons.

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What should I do to improve this /wip/? I only intend to drybrush the net with a shade of brown and maybe try to add some shine to the metal.

>>50304860
I love his pale skin.

Seeing that the lore for these guys is that they are miners/workers it makes sense for them to not see lots of the sun.. and the alien blood might also cause them to go pale.

A really cool color scheme overall too.

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In addition to my Nurgle dude, I also started working on this Slaanesh Pit-fighter. one arm will hold a sword, but what should the other be? the one on the left, or on the right?

>>50304895
Thanks! That's reassuring!

>>50291349
looking good
working on some epic loyal marines at the mo myself

>>50303698
So, is this just not available in the US? If not, then this is the single most depressing thing I've seen in a long while

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>>50304929
A dick.

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does anybody know what kit this is from, pretty large shoulderpad looking thing

>>50305245
forgefiend

>>50305245
It looks like something off a Helbrute or FW Chaos Knight kit from a glance.

>>50305269
this

>>50305147
I think they are refreshing the US site later than the EU one. Should be up in a couple of hours.

>>50305325
Yeah, NZ always gets the new stuff first because they're in the 'earliest' timezone. We here in NorAm get ours pretty late.

>>50305147
Are Timezones just not taught to people?

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>>50302622
Here you go.

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>>50305325
Ah, right. I'm not usually off work this early, so I didn't consider the time/ timezones
>>50305372
Just the ones that matter: Murrica's

>>50305387
I've been trying to work out what his eyes reminded me of, and I just got it. It's the kids from Chernobyl who got that thingummy icythosis. I'd say google it but then it's pretty gross so maybe don't.

>>50305269
yeh thankyou

>>50305387
YES!

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>>50305417
I actually managed to fix the eyes. The reason why it looks so fucked up in the first pic was because I painted too many layers and lost the detail on the plastic. Literally felt like I striped a mm of paint out of the eye sockets.

>>50305461
Yeah, that's a massive improvement. I wasn't trying to be mean, I've genuinely been racking my brains trying to work out what they reminded me of.

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>>50305481
I knew I fucked up the eyes, no hard feelings. I like the criticisms to improve and all. The eyes actually remind me of this.

Besides, I can take a joke. I posted this. >>50305387

>>50301925
i did light grey, then white. Then gave it a flesh shade wash.

>>50303582
just light blue dots with the tip of a toothpick, then washed over it with fleshshade.

>>50305417
I thought of steve buscemi

>>50304860
Looks like the engineer from Prometheus.

Do you guys use a separate primer on your bases? I'm debating if spray priming and basing the base and the models feet would be a smarter way to do a dusty legs approach or if it would be smarter to just keep them fully separate. Newbie to painting.

>>50305847
If your bases are not too complex, then you can do them in one go, but you should try to make sure that the base doesn't get in the way of painting the model.

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>>50302649
I hope this helps

>>50305846
Is that a good or a bad thing? I hadn't thought about that. Ironically, every tyranid in my army has been converted into a Xenomorph theme.

>>50303206
To be frank I'm afraid to even touch the helmets

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Paladin, two knights, and a marksman (sans crossbow). Early days, but paint really helps show the flaws on the older casts. Might strip/rebuild/repaint specific parts (the fucked up hand on the bascinet knight, for example) if clever highlighting and shading can't fix things.

Also got to think of something flashy to do with the paladin's crest and heraldry (fleur pattern on the blue? red stripes on the white?), and more importantly think of some appropriately knightly names and titles.

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Thoughts on the poses of these World Eaters Vets /wip/? Been cutting up/reposing the arms from Prospero, and casting more bolt pistols using Oyumaru & greenstuff. Opinions please!

>>50304886
Making the highlights on the bone & metal brighter would help it a lot in my opinion.

>>50304299
Yeah, Imperial Primer is sort of garbage. I might have been using it wrong but I'm sticking to sprays from now.

>>50306601
A wash of nuln oil or Agrax Earthshade should do the job. It'll blend the whites a bit better with the other colours

>>50306700
Very, very nice.

>Also got to think of something flashy to do with the paladin's crest and heraldry (fleur pattern on the blue? red stripes on the white?)
Fleur de lis would look good I think. I like the simplicity of the paintjob so far too though.
>and more importantly think of some appropriately knightly names and titles.
I vote for Sir Henry or Heinrich if you feel inclined.

>>50292815
THIS.
You use so little glue per application with the needle-tipped Model Masters glue that you will only need like 2 bottles per 10 years. And I'm a fucking commissions guy.

>>50306826
I like 'em. They're a bit calm for WE veterans if you ask me, but they look great

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I am 110% done with this model. How do you guys paint so quickly? It takes me like a month to get everything on a model to where I can live with it.

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From the general consensus online, it seems Citadel is overpriced and Vallejo is your best bet for quality and price. Do you think its a good idea to go and get the full game color set?

Money isn't that much of an issue and it seems like i get more paint for my buck compared to others brands.

>>50307189
I don't care for Vallejo, personally, but all but one of the really really good painters I know love it. Do you live near a hobby shop that sells Vallejo?

>>50307227
Sadly enough I don't. I have to pretty much pay out of my ass online for a set because I live in Canada.

>>50307189
no, because it is never a good idea to buy bulk paint, in case you don't use them, and GW tech paints are brilliant. like seriously, it is costly, but they do more, and cover amazingly.

>>50307189
I don't think this is really. I find some citadel colours better to work with than vallejo colours, and vice versa too. I'm a big fan of the Citadel metallics (especially the new white-tops) over VGC or VMC metallics (though I hear VMA metallics are top-tier). On the other hand I much prefer Vallejo blues to Citadel blues, except there is no true equivalent to Lothern Blue in the Vallejo lines.

Experiment, find out what works best for you, and use those instead of following consensus.

>>50307189
limiting yourself to one brand is a bad move, IMO. Each brand does certain colors really well.
Citadel has some of the best washes, technical paints and yellows in the business, P3's got amazing greens and some nice reds/browns. My point is that each brand has its merits.

how do you paint space marines, with or without guns on. and if u do it without guns can you let me know the process you take . cheers

>>50307636
I just paint them with the guns. It's just an extra bit of effort, but still less of an effort than painting everything separately with tweezers and shit.

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>>50307636
I generally assemble them without the bolter, but sometimes without the arms (the second guy is going to be holding a missile launcher and it's easier to assemble the arms and launcher together).

Then I paint the rest of the owl and assemble the pieces carefully to avoid having glue spill and ruin the paint job.

>>50307717
do you cut the hand off? is it normally attached to the gun? just general questions, gonna get some marines soon

>>50301566
The guy in the front left looks just like Brock Lesnar, these guys are turning out super rad

>>50307189
>From the general consensus online, it seems Citadel is overpriced and Vallejo is your best bet for quality and price.
from a lot of retailers the price per ounce is the same if you buy individual bottles, but if you are buying sets vallejo wins by a landslide.

GW has a few really good ones though, especially their Shade and Technical line, and you would be a fool to pass those up.

Why restrict yourself to a single brand of paint?

>>50307806
That's just how Horus Heresy marines are sculpted. Maybe 40k ones are different?

>>50307636
I've tried both and have to say that guns-off is a LOT easier while painting, but makes assembling harder

>>50307806
modern marine kits have the hand attached to the gun

older kits like the Chaos Space Marines have the hand and gun seperate

>>50307179
>Captain, watch out for those stai-
>CRASHBANGTUMBLE

Honestly, this is a great result. If it takes you a month to get there, then take a month for the sake of quality. Anybody can slap some paint on and call it a day, don't be ashamed of taking the time.

If you want to get faster, just start setting yourself goals. Keep practicing so you have more faith in your neatness, and start doing things like "I'm going to get this model done by the end of the week/five days/two days" and then just give it your best shot.

So i have painted miniatures when I was a lot younger but now I want to get back into it because I can actually afford the hobby my self.

How do I get started so I can get decent at painting?

>>50307977
you buy some models, paints, and a brush and start painting

If you look up "duncan rhodes" on youtube you will find a lot of beginner friendly painting tutorials delivered by Living Saint Rhodes. He paints GW models using GW paints, but you can apply the techniques to any model with any paints.

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>>50308025
>Living Saint Rhodes

Honour His name, >>50307977!

>>50307248
Citadel paint is not better than all the other ranges out their. Their paint is good, but it costs more and there is literally no reason at all to buy citadel if you have a store or an online retailer near you with good (i.e. regular) prices for vallejo or p3 or secret weapon or scale75 or mig or ak or army painter. All of these can be used without problems and all of these are cheaper than citadel.

>>50307189
I wouldn't buy a whole set because you won't need most of these paints right now. Why not buy one of their smaller sets which fits to your current army/project and then if you start building something else you can get more paint.

But if you can get that set for a bargain.. why not i guess.

>>50307977
Check Warhammer TV (Duncan) and Dr. Faust on Youtube. They do great tutorials.

Get some minis you like and think about what paint you need for them and buy these as well. And then just start following tutorials and practice. Its not hard to get decent results.

If any questions occur: ask here.

>>50308131
you are missing the point. Each brand has certain paints they excel at, and brand loyalty gets you nothing

>secret weapon
they have a few great colors, a few nothing special colors, and the worst dropper bottles to have ever existed. They clog all the time.

>>50300789
>MkVI legs on MkVII torso
>MkVII legs on MkVI torso

Reeeeeee, triggered and all that jazz.

>>50308260
canonically marines mix armor marks all the time

If you have some legs that still work great but the torso is all busted up, why replace the legs? just keep using them.

>>50308260
>>50308295
The only marines who don't mix-and-match for artificer goodness are lame-ass rank-n-file HH marines.

>>50295191
Hoping to see this project finished. Keep the photos coming!

When is it appropriate to dry brush to highlight? I keep seeing in most tutorials that you do it using normal techniques

Would you guys recommend this as a good beginner compressor?

There's no pressure gauge, but it can go to 30 psi, which is enough right?

Also, which iwata airbrush models do you recommend?

https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?products_id=22142

>>50309206
The Iwata Neo-C is a cheap and cheerful airbrush.
It is still a fully functional dual-action airbrush, so it's a good learning tool.

And yes, 30 PSI is plenty, it'll usually be your maximum pressure.
If you're working with more volatile paints, you might want to halve it, but for acrylics its fine.