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/bqg/ - Bike Questions General

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Old thread >>1022249

Ask your questions here
- Mechanical issues
- Buying advice


>General Resources
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
>>
To the multiple anons who have chinese frames on here, how have they been so far? and where did you buy it from?
>>
>>1023909
I don't own one, but I'd advise against it. Most of the horror stories you hear about carbon fiber frames shattering catastrophically are either off-brand Chinese-made, or counterfeits of well-known name-brand frames.
>>
>>1023911
i dont hear too many horror stories about them, i hear more good things about them than bad things tbqh. All bike are made in Taiwan anyway so who gives a fuck.
>>
>>1023909
I don't have firsthand experience, but the 2 brands I've seen people say are ok on forums etc is ICAN and Deng Fu
>>
>>1023909
>>1023911
>>1023912
No, not all bikes are made in Taiwan, many are made in China. The counterfeits are especially bad for various reasons, and don't believe any shit about it being open mold or them being the OEM. The most reputable ones sell under their own brand names.
>>
>>1023918
Yes Goy, here at overpriced Italianbrand™ we make sure you have the very best product for only 8000$ a frame on something that only costs us less than 800$ to make. Those china bikes even though they are made the exact same way disintegrate as soon as you go on them!
>>
Should I upgrade to Shimano 105? I have the second latest Sora on my bike. The shifting is fine I guess but the cables sticking out of the shifters is very annoying.

Also, the bike cost me $650 Canadian, it's a Devinci Silverstone 2 2016. Upgrade or just sell it? Upgrading to 105 should cost me about $400.

I'm kind of a noob right now, I haven't even got 300km on this bike yet since my pedals broke. Thinking about doing the upgrade this summer.

ALSO would Sora to Tiagra be a worthy upgrade? My friend has a Tiagra bike circa 2013 and is upgrading to Ultegra.
>>
>>1023919
>it's a /pol/ doesn't know anything episode


Two Chinese made but self branded companies have already been named in this thread, ICAN and Deng Fu. Counterfeits don't give a shit because it's not their reputation on the line, and anyone buying a counterfeit is more concerned about appearances and price rather than the quality of the product. These are made by smaller less reputable factories who don't OEM for others, which is why they sell counterfeits, and they don't R&D because they have no plans except selling on the gray market. But keep riding your Chinarello because you were too good to buy a Fuji or whatever.
>>
>>1023925
Do you have 11 speed wheels?

2013 Tiagra is okay, but it doesn't really compare to current Tiagra. Current Tiagra is almost the same as 105, except heavier and 1 less gear.
>>
>>1023925
Its a 2016 bike and im assuming you recently got it, theres no need to upgrade so soon, how long have you had the bike anyway? 300km is jack shit tbqh, the sora drivetrain components must have so much life in them still.
>>
How many bikes does /n own?

Do you ride with your friends?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4DKppzKKtA

what is it like?
>>
>>1023925
>I guess but the cables sticking out of the shifters is very annoying.

Geez, I dunno how you would have survived riding Dura-Ace prior to 2008.
>>
>>1023935

>How many bikes does /n own?
90's road bike and a flat bar commuter with panniers
currently shopping for a replacement for the road bike, but I doubt I'll get rid of it so I'll have 3 bikes

>Do you ride with your friends?
Implying I have any

>what is it like?
I enjoy solitude
>>
>>1023938
pics pls
>>
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>>1023942
don't have any pics of the flat bar, but it is a Charge Urban with Alfine 8 speed hub
>>
>>1023942
If you want pics of our bikes go to >>/pybt/
>>
>>1023935
Two, sometimes, fun but boring because they're slow
>>
>>1023925
Then buy new pedals and ride up grades don't buy upgrades yet.
>>
Got no reply in the winter thread so I'll ask here :
Which gloves woud you guys recomend ? Winter is not so rough here (-5°C). Thinking about buying some gore windstopper series, but they're a bit expensive. Also I'd like gloves that allow me to feel what I'm touching.
>>
>>1023935
>How many bikes does /n own?
29er hardtail and 650b full sus

no

it's fun
>>
>>1023935
Got 5.5 right now.
>Trek Atwood, steel is reel even for a hybrid
>90s rigid mtn bike with city tires
>80s rigid mtn single speed conversion +SLIX
>much tarck bike 08 Kilo TT
>70s gaspipe 5 speed w/ fenders for rainy days
>Dyno VFR BMX I'm rebuilding

I don't have any friends that stayed in state, most of the dudes I used to roll with either stopped riding, got fat or moved away.

To ride is to suffer.
>>
>>1023987
Just get a Garmin 1000 and program a virtual friend to race with you.
>>
>>1023989
What a marvelous idea! reminds me of racing my ghost in Mario Kart, never used a Garmin before so I didn't know you could do that.
>>
>>1023987
>not being an mtber
come on man get with the program we got some sick IPAs in the cooler back at the trailhead
>>
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>>1023929
>>1023937
>>1023950
OK thanks guys. I already ordered a pair of Look Keo Classic 2 pedals. I'm just going to ride a lot and once I put on a few thousand kms I'll think about upgrading.
>>
>>1023992
I can't drink beer if I want to have a happy tummy, besides I ride those rigid memebikes to work. I'm moving to Oregon next year though, I will fully embrace it when I can.
For now I'm a poorfag, most of those bikes I bought for less than 40 bucks and just fixed them up in my spare time as a hobby, I like wrenching as much as riding. I'd love to work as a bike mechanic so I'm just learning as much as I can for now.
>>
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How can I know if my wheel is of good quality?
>>
>>1023916
ICAN and Deng Fu don't do counterfeits though.
>>
>>1023902

I'm about to pull the trigger in a single speed hybrid, my only concern is that it comes with a coaster break,.

Can I change the coaster break for a freewheel or a fixie and add a proper break?
>>
>>1023997
bro just set up some knobbies for your clunkers and come ride!
>>
>>1024011
Aw yeah you're right! I should just stop being a nofun having jerk and get into it now. I'll throw some knobbies on the single speed one with my next paycheck.
>>
>>1024009

> Can I change the coaster break for a freewheel or a fixie and add a proper break?

depends on frame and rim. For a rim brake, you need a rim with a braking surface, and a frame with either a hole for road bike type brakes, or the mounts for V-brakes. For a disk brake, you need a frame with a disk brake mount and a hub which accepts a brake disk.
>>
>>1023902
>tiny baby rotors

really now
>>
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>>1024018
tiny babby car too
>>
>>1023902
[toe rub intensifies]
>>
>>1024021
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__FQdJmasJA
>>
>>1024027
36ers exist though, good prank I guess

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYt6IqaHk_Q
>>
What lock do n/iggers use?
>>
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when im on my small ring in the front my chain wont stay on theses gears in the rear. nothing else seems to be off, any ideas on what might be causing it and how to remedy it?
>>
>>1024043
http://www.bicyclechainrings.com/crosschaining.html
>>
>>1024047
thanks famalam
>>
>>1024040
I use an OnGuard Mastiff loop chain since there aren't making racks around me to lock up, most of the time I have to lock around poles or trees. I try to make sure I don't hurt the younger ones though. Or I use a mini u-lock if I'm just going out for a fun ride and won't be making long stops.
>>
>>1024043
Does the chain actually skip on the cog, or just it just try to jump to a different gear?

Unless the chain is skipping because those gears are the most worn out, the most likely problem is that your derailer hanger is bent just a little bit, so that your shifting works most of the time except for when the derailer is being tasked with taking up lots of slack in the chain.
>>
>>1024043
>>1024047
>>1024051
i fucked up i meant big ring in front, but it looks like the chain is trying to change gears
>>
>>1024053
check chain ware, cables, hanger alignment- it must be perpendicular to axle. do you know how to index your gears?
>>
>>1024053
probably just need to index the derailleur.
>>
>>1024057
>>1024056
seemed to fix it, thanks guys.
>>
Got my road bike and I rode for 1 hour and it feels like my ass is literally ass-kicked.

How long until I don't get ass sores anymore? Or will the new bike tights with pads that I'm getting help?
>>
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Why do my pedals spontaneously jam/jump? A pseudo gear change if you will. It's very annoying and potentially dangerous when I hit high speeds. How do I fix this? Please halp.
>>
>>1024070
within a few rides you'll stop getting sore and the shorts will help too
>>
>>1024073
Either the chain skipping on the cog or chainring (excessive wear on one or more of those parts) or the freehub or freewheel is skipping.
>>
>>1024070
Depends, if you're just getting into road cycling, give it a couple weeks and the problem may solve itself as you develop strength and technique (if you're a brand new rider, you're probably sitting on the bike like a sack of potatoes instead of supporting your bodyweight evenly between your legs, arms, and saddle, and you're probably not yet used to unweighting the saddle slightly just ahead of bumps to avoid getting jackhammered in the crotch). If you're still having pain after a couple weeks of riding, you'll likely need to try a different saddle.
>>
>>1024070
It'll probably go away remarkably fast, it was similar for me and after a few days it never hurt anymore.
>>
>>1024070
Have you had your bike fitted properly?
>>
>>1024006
So?
>>
>>1023902
is big bike or little man?
>>
>>1023926
>it's a /pol/ doesn't know anything episode
>/pol/ likes Chinese over Italians
>>
>>1023928
Can confirm that current Tiagra is the same as current 105 except for the extra gear and the weight.
>>
I am getting ready to replace the drive train on my commuter bike (former cyclocross bike). It currently has a 10 speed ultegra derailer, and I am having trouble finding cost effective 10 speed shimano derailers, so I think I am going to down grade to a new tiagra 10 speed derailer.

Will I encounter any problem if I use my current 10 speed ultegra shifters with a 10 speed tiagra rear derailer?
>>
>>1024100
No, shimano are pretty good for compatibility desu
>>
>>1024084
Yeah. Bike shop fitted me properly

I was just wondering if it goes away with experience riding it. I have not rode a bike in like 8 years
>>
>>1024104
Yeah, you should be fine, its just your body adjusting to it, you may find in the future its your wrists or lower/upper back that gets sore. The weak point will shift around as you get stronger and then you should be able to ride all day, or you may need to make some minor fitment adjustment if there's a stubborn complaint that doesn't resolve itself after a few rides
>>
>>1024106
I see. I thought maybe I might have some medical condition and can't ride anymore. I will try riding tomorrow to toughen up more. I just hope this doesn't take me weeks to get used to
>>
>>1024104
are you that 300lb guy who kept asking questions last week? what bike did you get?
>>
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>>1024107
If you ride a lot consider a chamois cream. Just grease your butt up with this stuff and it'll make your long rides much more comfortable.

I always tickle my bum with some before a 2 hour plus ride.
>>
>>1024109
Yeah. I got a
Cannondale
Synapse Aluminum Claris 8

>>1024110
Does that actually work for what feels like a bruised bottom?
>>
>>1024112
did you use padded shorts btw?
>>
>>1024112
Honestly, if you're starting out from a really unfit/sedentary lifestyle, start out with shorter rides, maybe a 15 minute ride, but do it every day.

Once you get to a point where you can ride 15 minutes 3 days in a row with no complaints from your body, go for a bit longer, but build up slowly.

Consistency is key. Destroying yourself one day and not riding for another week because of how much it hurts isn't the way to go.
>>
>>1024112
dont listen to this guy>>1024115
Go hard or go home, you said you wanted to lose 100lbs right? DOUBLE CENTURY EVERYDAY.
>>
>>1024113
Not yet. It's coming soon.

>>1024115
I see. I already destroyed my bum for a day so I might do half an hour next time to see if it improves. I just don't want to suffer every time I ride especially after putting $1000 into the discipline. I did shed 1000 calories from my earlier ride so I hope I can keep at it for my weight loss.
>>
>>1024121
padded shorts will help ALLOT, expect them to remove all discomfort even.
>>
what's a good commuter bike to get from craiglist?

https://houston.craigslist.org/search/bia?query=bicycle
>>
>>1024130
https://houston.craigslist.org/bik/5862427384.html
>>
>>1024123
That sounds reassuring.

Any idea if I should get a bike computer to measure my progress?

Are those calorie counters accurate? I am willing to spend $100ish for one
>>
>>1024135
im not sure how accurate they are but i do have a fitbit charge HR, its nice to have as you can see the progress and it sorta motivates you. it also helps me get 8hrs of sleep and seeing my heart rate is pretty nice.
>>
>>1024112
It may help a bit, it is more for chafing/friction.

You should at least get a basic bicycle computer. Speed/distance/odometer/average is all I need. But you can get a nicer one and do Strava. Calorie counters are shit afaik.
>>
>>1024139
Can you recommend me a specific model? I am at a complete loss as a newbie.

>>1024135
Is that a good cheap option?
>>
>>1024131
I prefer flat bars

Also I'm 6 feet tall and weight 2 stones
>>
I am looking to buy a roof rack. I have a 2013 explorer with the factory side railes. I've looked at the Thule and Yakima brands and they seem so expensive. Is there any cheaper alternatives or do I just have to bite the bullet?
>>
>>1024147
>Master Exploder
>Bite the bullet
Come on, just do it, go for the 80s metal trifecta with a Thule, All Hail, brand rack.
>>
>>1024148
Your response is shit. Fuck off
>>
>>1024150
Well you're no fun, I was just jokingly saying that the cheaper alternatives are not worth the money and that you should definitely go with a reputable brand.
I'm not sure where you got anything different than that. Also, I'd like to recommend you http://www.gearscan.com/ and see if you can find a decent deal on a rack there.
>>
Is this worth it?

https://houston.craigslist.org/bik/5842877365.html
>>
>>1024139
Is a Garmin Edge 200 good for those aspects? The price is good it seems
>>
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Newfag to /n/

I am looking for some serious lock and chain since I am buying a $1600 bicycle.

What I found is 4 ft Custom Pewag Snow Chain and Custom Assa Abloy Stanley: $350+Tax

There are a bunch of videos of a dude trying to cut it, but only a cordless angle grinder was able to cut it in 2 minutes.

Worth it or not? Haven't gotten a bike stolen yet, and I don't want to start either.
>>
>>1024159
>a cordless angle grinder was able to cut it in 2 minutes.
People aren't going to do shit about a guy cutting your lock in broad daylight and in public. Cops will just ask if it's his bike, he'll lie and they'll move on. You're going to be lugging that shit around for an extra 2 minutes of "security"
Shit Leeroy, they can just cut whatever it's locked to more quickly most of the time. If this is just to keep your bike locked in your garage, then sure it's all good but if you are that worried figure out a way to keep your bike as close to you as possible while you work or whatever.
Good start but you need to look at the bigger picture.
>>
>>1024159
how stupid must one be to commute on a 1600 bicycle, get a piece of shit beater. there are multiple anons on this board who have had there high end bikes stolen while it was locked up in broad daylight in public, city folk dont give a shit if they seem someone stealing something.
>>
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>>1024160
>>1024162

I am using a walmart beater right now.

What's the fucking point of mid to high end bikes if it can't be used on a daily basis?

Anyway, the next best thing I can think of is rig the bike to explode. I am actually a /k/unt and don't fucking care if a degenerate receives a shotgun slug to the asshole and the bike he tried to steal is toasted.
>>
>>1024164
Buy a better beater then shit/k/unt, but really, most of the time people ride higher end bikes to work they're able to take them into their office or have on-site or covered bike parking. Talk to your company to get something set up if they don't and that's if you are talking about commuting with it and not just riding it everyday.
If it's just riding everyday, you'll get tired of lugging that chain around eventually. It will hurt your fun and... you should have some kind of insurance right? Just claim that shit and get a new bike.
>>
>>1024159
kryptonite new york lock
>>
>>1024159
Don't leave a $1600 bicycle outside, ever
>>
>>1024159
dont listen to this guy >>1024193
say anon where do you live by chance? and at what times would you be away from your bike? just wondering...... and heavy ulocks are a waste, just get those small cables, they get the job done.
>>
Lads, I need to get a new front wheel. Mach 1 or mavic open pro? Both Shimano 105 but the mavic are silver and my rear has black.

What are your opinions?
>>
>>1024153
$140 is fair market value, it's nothing special but would make a fine bike for basic mountain bike trails or commuting.

>>1024159
Locking a bike safely is more about making it look like stealing your bike would be more trouble than it's worth. If you want lock your bike as securely as possible, use a U-lock through the frame and rear wheel, and a separately locked cable through the wheels - this will discourage all casual would-be thieves and makes attempts to defeat the locks more complicated because two different tools will be needed. But the truth is, any lock or chain can be defeated by a truly determined thief, so don't there's not much point in spending lots of extra cash on a fancy lock when a cheap u-lock and cheap cable will work just as well as a practical deterrent. You can also make your bike less desirable to thieves by making it unique in some way (read: not generic) - this makes it harder for a thief to fence your bike without getting caught in the process.

Also protip: if you lock up at the same place everyday, just leave your heavy, main lock (whether that's a U-lock or a big chain) locked to that rack/post when you're away - there's no incentive for anyone to steal a lock that would be ruined in the process of stealing it.

>>1024199
Not familiar with Mach 1 products, but I can vouch that Open Pro rims are tough and not terribly heavy, they're a great choice if you're going to run standard width road tires.
>>
>>1024200
Thanks, I probably get those, only down side is the hub is silver but that's just an aesthetic issue.
>>
650 wheels are closer to 27.5 or 26?
>>
>>1024216
650b and 27.5 are the same (584mm rim diameter), the only difference is the name. As a general rule, wider mountain bike rims and tires in that size get marketed as 27.5, while narrower rims and tires for road use get marketed as 650b,
>>
>>1023911

>the only criteria for quality are the materials and origin
>>
>>1024102
>>1024100
Are you sure? I seem to remember reading the new tiagra stuff specifically uses a different pull ratio.
>>
>>1024235

They did, 4700 has the 11 speed ratio.
>>
>>1024159
thats not really a 'lock it up and leave it outside' bike. especially not with $350 worth of 2-minute chain (seriously what the fuck are you thinking).
i mean if you really want to burn $2000 with nothing to show for it you could just give it all to a twitch streamer. she'll probably use it better than you would.
>>
I want lower gears on my roadbike.
Currently it as 53/39 standard cranks with an 11-28 cassette on a short cage derailleur.

I'm planning to put a compact on there, is it worth going for an 11-32 and long cage as well?
>>
>>1024256
It's a 14% gearing change and you don't necessarily need a long cage, a medium will work too. Idk, unless you are riding hills all day and want that last resort cog then sure go for it, if you don't really need a bailout cog then just stick the compact on there and call it a day.
>>
Hey
I want to get back into biking but im not sure what kind of bike to look for (havent used a bike anymore in years) Mostly going to use it for going to work and city stuff, but there are no trains or busses for me to commute to work with.
>>
>>1024256
why the fuck did you get a 53/39 in the first place? you know only world class cyclists use that right?
>>
>>1024270
GOTTA GO FAST
>>
>>1024280
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhdVr2Cn1OY
here is bradely wiggins, one of the best cyclists in the world rage quitting because he couldn't climb on a 39, what makes you think your obese ass can do any better?
>>
>>1024256
Yes, though I think mid cage and even most short cage RDs can handle 32t just fine.
>>
>>1024283
lmao did that maximam sanics joke trigger your autism or your britbong pride?
>wiggins
Maybe he forgot to take his cortisol shot that morning but still, his fault for not gearing correctly mate.
>>
Which is better, wool head gaiters or balaclava for winter cycling?

Also, what is a good cheap computer for bikes? Are wired units more reliable than wireless?
>>
>>1024301
I feel like a wool gaiter is more versatile than a balaclava but I guess it would depend on the coverage you need.

I would say for cheap computers you should probably just go wired, a CatEye Velo 7 is under 20 bucks.
>>
>>1024303
Thanks a lot. I didn't want to spend hundreds for balaclava and bike computer.
>>
Why do so few bikes have frame mounted pumps?

I always have mine and tires full of slime. Do people prefer to carry in other ways? Co2?

Also, why are the mobile phone holders so unpopular? I love mine.
>>
>>1024265
hey, welcome back to biking :)

there are lots of great options for commuter bikes, basically anything that's sturdy and has reasonable tyres on it will work fine

main question, is how much do you want to spend? since you're getting back into it, it may be best to start of with a low cost beater, to see if you're enjoying riding and to get used to handling traffic. low cost bikes are also nice for commuting because you don't have to be too paranoid about people stealing them.

the standard issue low cost but reliable as fuck commuter is a 90s rigid mtb with slicks
>pic related

depending on road quality, an old ten speed road bike will work if you want something a bit quicker and still not too expensive

if you're willing to spend some more money for a more modern ride, and you have either a security patrolled space to lock the bike up in or can take it inside with you, touring bikes make great commuters
>>
>>1024352
lots of people use co2 because its light, but those little cartridges get expensive as fuck pretty fast if you ride on shitty roads

i have a lezyne hand pump that I keep strapped to my rack, it works like a champ
>>
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>>1024366
>forgot pic
>>
>>1024368
>>1024366
Hey thanks for the reply.
My dad offered his old Giant bike which he isn't really using anymore, it might be too big for me though. Other than that I live in holland so there are a lot of bike stores if I want to get a new bike instead.
Been looking online a bit since I haven't had the time to go any local stores just yet. Preferably nothing thats too expensive but if I would need to get something new i'd probably spend around 600-700 or something along those lines. It just feels like a nice idea to go biking again after so many years. Cube seems like it has a nice line to choose from going from a larger online store where I live. Not as bulky as the Batavus or Gazelle bikes that most stores sell. All I really want on it that most of them seem to lack are some mud guards in case it rains. Dont really need a pack on it or a carrier.
>>
How accurate are bike computers regarding cadence and bike speed?
>>
>>1024383
bretty accurate at least if you set them up correctly
>>
>>1024383
Depends on the computer, the method it uses to measure and how well you set it up. A garmin with cadence sensors set up properly will be sub-3% margin of error. If the computer uses GPS for current speed it can vary on signal strength and how often it polls the satellite.
>>
How much difference is there between Giant PR2-wheels and Campag Zonda -wheels? Is it worth the money?
And: Is upgrading factory-tyres (from Giant) to lets say Continental Grand Prix 4000 II also worth the bucks?
>>
>>1024237
No, the 4700 is still 10 speed.
>>
>>1024378
>I live in holland

I thought the dutch just stole bikes off one another whenever they needed one and when they broke you threw them in the nearest canal.
>>
>>1024398
yes but it does use a new pull ratio and is not compatible with 4600 and previous groupsets.
>>
I need to service my suspension and I can't afford it.

They said it needed an "oil bath"? I don't even know where to start looking. Is this something a noob would be able to even do?
>>
>>1024445
If it's a fork it's pretty easy to top up the oil, just unscrew the top cap and pour the correct amount in. That said if it's low then it's probably leaking, which means you also need to replace seals which is a bit more complicated.
>>
https://www.momentum-biking.com/us/bikes/street/blue-white
Is this dumb if I just want a minimum standard commuter? I got by with a 5-speed beach cruiser from 1987 in downtown Chicago for a few months, so...this would probably be a step up for me.
>>
>>1024449
It's brand new this season. Can you hook me up with a youtube vid and how do I know how much oil? I'm guessing I can get it from the local bike store. It's a fox 32 and I think I should service the rear shock too.
>>
>>1024452
Why not buy a used steel frame for that much?
>>
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fixie-track-bikes/track-fixie-colored-wheels.htm

Looking for first bike. Want to buy new. Into single speed/fixed gear.

Should get?
>>
>>1024453
The amount depends on the exact model of the fork, Fox should have the info somewhere on their site. For such a new fork if you don't know what you're doing it's best to just let a shop do it, if you don't have the money then save up (it shouldn't be that expensive and if you can afford that sort of fork it shouldn't take long to save up).
>>
>>1024456
I have the money, I'm just reluctant. I'm also trying to do DIY stuff, too, to save money and educate myself.
>>
>>1024459
Then you shouldn't be asking people on /n/ what to do. Find the service docsfor your fork from Fox and read through it all like 5 times. Bear in mind that if you don't know what specifically needs replacing that means you have to replace everything and chances are it'll end up costing you just as much. Even if the shop had to do a full service it could still be cheaper as they pay less for parts and already have tools that you may need to buy.
>>
>>1024462
grumble
>>
I was thinking about getting an old, second hand bike off gumtree before I actually commit to a good bike. What kind of things should I be looking for in them?

I take it I can upgrade parts if I need to.
>>
How much of a difference will getting a modern road bike be coming from a hybrid bike? Will I notice a significant increase in speed since the bike will be 10 pounds lighter than the one I have now?
>>
>>1024471
The biggest difference would be the geometry. On a proper road bike you'd be way more forward, giving your legs more to spring off.

Less comfort, though.
>>
>>1024462
What are the consequences of not properly maintaining shocks like these?
>>
>>1024473
Eventually the seals will wear so much that you'll start losing oil and getting grit under the seals, which will then lead to the stanchions getting worn. If that gets too bad then replacement seals won't function and the problem will continue to get worse and you'll eventually need new uppers.
>>
>>1024454
>used steel frame
???what???

I've jumped through the "buy used" game before and got:
Motobecane Team Track frame for $150
Diamondback Hard Rock (early 90's) for $40

But I'm not familiar with what the fuck kind of frame I would be buying used for $430. Unless you're talking a frame that was made in the last couple of years??

Look, just grab ANY example from online you can find to give me an idea of what type of frame you are talking about. What type of frame are you thinking that I'm going to use? And how am I possibly going to keep my budget under the buying price of the bike I linked earlier if I spend that much on solely the frame? Like I said my standards are already p. low, so it's not a problem if I start low and work my way up. I also know that this bike is Top Casual, but that's really all I want from a bike I'd use for commuting.

So then...
>>
I recently crashed and now my brake is not aligned, It brakes and changes gears alright so I don't think anything is broken it just is kind of pointing inwards now. Is it an easy fix that I can do from home or am I going to have to take it into a shop?
>>
Is there any easy way to tweak hydro breaks?

With cable breaks there's a little set screw you can manipulate to tighten or loosen it...is there any such thing with hydraulics?
>>
>>1024493
Most levers have an adjustment to move the lever blade closer or further from the handle bar, if it's not a knob you can turn it'll be a small hex screw. Some levers, mostly SRAM I think, will also allow you to move the pads in or out but not really something you need to mess with.
>>
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>>1024491
Pic related, it's the left brake. And I know I need new bar tape, anyone recommend any from Amazon?
>>
>>1024491
You should be able to do this yourself with an allen key. Quick youtube search brought up this video - he adjusts the brake angle at about 2mins in
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58kASaxYb4M
>>
>>1024495
>Undo bar tape
>Loosen screw under shifter
>Align shifter
>Tighten screw
>Apply new tape
>>
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I noticed the rear end of my bike was clunking so I checked it out. Turned out the qr was loose. So I went to tighten it and it fell apart in my hands. What now?
>>
>>1024489
Steel bike I meant.

check pinkbike.com or a local used bike store
>>
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>>1024455
Here. Take a look at the parts in the red boxes. Normally signs of lower-quality bikes.

1. Dropouts: See how the rear dropout isn't flush with the chainstays and seatstays? The edge that sticks out on both sides? With so little attention to detail I can safely say that the dropouts will be stamped steel that are fit loosely into slots, and then the gaps filled with weld. Also look at the angle that rear dropout approaches the seat stay (marked with red lines); the dropouts were clearly designed to have the seatstays approach at a shallower angle but instead of getting a different dropout, they just bodged it in and didn't sweat it. Not so good.
2. Seatpost: I've worked with this exact type of seatpost before and it's p. garbage. The seatpost says "micro adjust alloy" but I flat out don't believe it. Even if the post itself is aluminum, then at least the clamp that holds the seat in place is a loop of steel that I'm very familiar with working on vintage bikes, and is a legacy part with little granularity in seat adjustment. It also isn't integrated to the seatpost so it can fall right the fuck off when loosened. Not good.
3. Pedals: This type is real common on cheap bikes and %90 of the time made of plastic. I'm frustrated, though, because I can't tell from these pictures and the material isn't listed. Regardless this is supposed to be a track bike but there are no toe straps of any kind to hold your feet down (And there is not even a fixed gear included with the bike!!).

I also want to bitch about the frame and fork because carbon is traditionally used just for how much lighter it is, but there is no way in hell that the weight savings will make up for the rest of the bike. If the rest of the frame is going to be 4130 steel, then the fork should really be too. That frame will be durable as hell but the fork won't stand up to half as much, so...I don't get the fucking point.

(1/2)
>>
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"Selling my 58cm Cannondale SH600 Bike, I planned to do a tour with but fell through. It is an Awesome commuter bike! I don't ride it much because I bought a different bike last year.
Components are Shimano Deore LX (10 speed) 700c wheels.
Comes with rear rack and everything else on it. I switched out the handlebars for butterfly bars/Europian touring bars and they are awesome but I haven't had a chance to wrap them yet tho.
Aluminum bike (the paint is in decent shape but slightly chipped in a few places.
It may need to be minorly tuned but it is 100% rideable as it is
Asking for 200 Obo, Open the trades
Any questions call/text me and or email me"

Found on local CL

What do you beautiful fucks think?
Pic related. Is bike.
>>
>>1024507
I just now posted one i found on CL as your reply showed up. From the beginning of your rant im assuming the one on BD isnt worth.

Can you take a look at the canondale?
>>
>>1024510
He says the front tire is out of true and fron derailleur needs tuned. So he's being at least somewhat honest on the problems.
>>
>>1024507
Last word on the matter is that the bike will work for what you need it to do. It's just the lowest standard of quality that you can have for it. And will eventually need parts replacement so just find a quality set of these right now:
-pedals (clipless + shoes), or (toe cages + straps),
-a seatpost,
-saddle
at least, and then pretend that cost is a part of the cost for the whole bike, because you'll want to change those parts out. When they wear out at least. Hopefully sooner than that. So if you don't mind starting with the three-hundred-some price up front, plus parts costs as soon as you can manage...p l u s a plebian build quality, then you'll be okay.

I believe in you, anon.
-(2/2)
>>
>>1024504
You can get an entire new skewer for like ten bucks online. Look around a bit, and figure out the specifics for yourself. You'll thank yourself later for having learned bike stuff for yourself.
>>
>>1024512
>rant
I was just trying to autistically point out things to look for to filter out trash bikes.

You're welcome.

By the way, there are no red flags on the Cannondale so I'm not actually sure. I only know how to watch out for critical flaws and otherwise lack the same autistic attention to detail with the different grades of Shimano stuff. As long as there is a derailler hangar built into the rear dropout, then it's at least mid-grade at how old it is. Next time, post the link to the CL ad so we can see the actual ad for ourselves. That will ALWAYS get you better quality of replies on /n/.
>>
>>1024493
Depends what you want to do. If the lever pull is too long, they probably have to be bled, not adjusted.
>>1024495
Lizard Skin tape is nice.
Adjusting caliper brakes is easy (I assume you have calliper; I can't enlarge the picture to look because my internet is shit), you can usually just do it by hand, sometimes you have to looseen an allen bolt first. Park Tool and Sheldon Brown (links in OP) have good guides.
>>1024464
Post in bbg. Make sure it's the right size frame, and not a department store brand. Inspect brake pads, chain, chainrings, cassette, cables, housing, tires, and know that you may have to replace some or all of those.
>>1024504
Put it back together...?
>>
What locks do /n recommend, ive seen some on amazon, I wanna invest in a good lock kryptonite lock.
>>
>>1024529
buy a cable lock and a u-lock. this is enough to deter drunks, yank-and-run opportunists and other petty thieves.

no chain will deter a dedicated professional thief that has targeted your bike and you need to be aware of this absolute fact.
>>
>>1024534
What u lock models are some of the besf?
>>
>>1024539
If you don't care about weight, Kryptonite Fahgeddaboudit (may have spelled it wrong)
Small (and thick) is best, less room for leverage to break it

Also consider a folding lock such as Abus Bordo Ecolution 6000. About as strong as a u-lock, more versatile (can wrap around bigger poles and trees), and thieves aren't used to cutting them so might go to a bike locked with something they already know how to break such as a u-lock or chain lock.
>>
>>1023935

5 bikes, 2 tandems

Yes, frequently, but not always.

I like all types. Solitude, comraderie, competition, gettin groceries, or bar hopping.
>>
Anyone heard of Hasa or Wheeler brand bikes?
>>
>>1024270
Why? The company who specced it are retarded I guess. It's an ultegra level bike billed as their climbing model... came with 53/39 and a fucking 11-25 on the back.

TWENTY FUCKING FIVE

swapped that one out pretty quick, although had I known it's kind of compatible (?) would have probably gone straight to 32.

>>1024284
Mid cage is the one designed for 32, short cage is billed as going to up to 28.
>>
Why would I want to have saddle higher than handles? What are the advantages?
>>
>>1024593
All about aero, and in the case of most modern road bikes, having a bike that actually fits you properly.
>>
>>1024270
>being this FUCKING weak
>>1024593
Because having saddle lower than bars makes you a massive faggot. If you don't want the world to know that you love dick, don't ride that way.
>>
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bik/5864415952.html

looks like a pretty good deal, and I'd love to "blaze it" down the road... huehuehue

Thoughts?
>>
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I was thinking about trying out BMX. Most of the "BMX" bikes I see are labeled "boys" or "kids". Could I use one of these? When I see adults doing BMX the bikes look really small anyway.
>>
>>1024596
>Relative positions of stem vs handlebars makes you gay
>Not a penchant for wearing skin tight lycra

Whatever, homo
>>
>>1024613
Yeah I would think having your ass in the air is like a mating ritual so that all the bumfuckers will stick their eyes and noses on you.
Skin tight lycra is just comfy though, don't hate on it.
>>
>>1024605
Seems like a good deal but I hate triple chainrings desu. Make sure the rear mech isn't super rusty and that the rings are still sharp
>>
>>1024716
What's wrong with triples?

Actually curious because I bought an upright bike for cheap because it was a little worn. The front chainring has sharkteeth for the big ring. I was wondering if I should just buy another triple for it or just put a single on there just to keep it simple.
My other bike is a rigid mountain bike that's only 1x7 and I feel comfy riding it.
>>
>>1024415
No canals where I live and I want to get a new bike.
>>
How do I find nice flat places to bike on? These hills near my home is making it impossible to feel comfortable riding either uphill or downhill.

Which bike rack for my car is good? Trunk rack or roof rack?

I kind of want to drive to my beach boardwalk for a smoother ride
>>
>>1024723
Unnecessary weight and tons of gear overlap.
>>
>>1024745
I can deal with weight but the gear overlap makes sense. Hmm, should I throw on a single or a compact double?
This would be for a bike that I ride along the canals here and commuting occasionally.
I assume it would be easier to put a double on there otherwise I'd have to work on it much more to get a good chainline right? Or does that really only matter on single speeds?
>>
>>1024378
you're making a good call to get something a bit lighter than your standard issue dutch commuter

those are nice for cruising around and indestructable, but they're so fucking heavy and don't handle super well

for the 600-700 dollar range, you have tons of options. I'd recommend a cro-mo frame, because its really durable and not that much heavier than alu

and yeah, fenders are super nice when its rainy, they make a world of difference in comfort

i'd recommend getting a rack anyway, even if you aren't going to need it much, they're cheap, look nice, and if you ever get panniers, it'll amaze you how much stuff you can move with your bike
>>
What are the disadvantages to riding a bike that's larger than your size? I can stand over an M sized mtb with my feet flat on the ground but I have no clearance between the frame and my junk. Would it be possible to ride the bike comfortably or should I look for one sized S?
>>
>>1024799
Are you willing to take a sack tap with all your weight when you slam on your top tube?

Do you want to have children in the future?

SIZE DOWN MOFO!!!
>>
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Any thoughts on the Crust Clydesdale fork? I'm looking to build up a city bike that I can use for errands and groceries. I have a spare all city nature boy frame, but having gears and a rear disc would be nice.
>>
I'm not >>1023973 but I have the same question. Hands are already getting chilly with my current gloves. What should I look for in a winter glove?
>>
>>1024968

The softshell type are great for that kind of weather. You'll pay for what you get.

For truly cold weather, best bet is to switch to alpine ski gloves.
>>
>>1023902
>36" Wheel MTB
>Middle-aged white dude in kit
Was there any surprise?
>>
>>1024929
I ride a single speed porteur around Seattle without much issue; it just required me to commit to a lower gear (2:1) than I would normally like to ride to accommodate riding with a loaded front rack.

Also there's nothing wrong with mullet (Disc F, Rim R) set ups!
>>
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26" gumwall mtb tires. Where do I get some new? I don't want antique Panaracers.
>>
If a wheel is completely utterly untrued (not my default one, I was hoping to turn this into a backup, I've already bumped one (thumps while braking) so I'm running out of spares) is there no hope to true it with the tool? It's not bent or scratched, it literally looks like this while it spins ~~~~~~ but I have no idea if the best course of action is loosening all spokes and starting anew or the opposite.
>>
I recently bought off craigslist one of these GMC Denali road bikes for 80 bucks to find out if cycling is my thing or not. And well, I fell in love with it.

My question is: does anyone know how fast is the top gear on these bikes? I understand most of the speed will come out from my effort, but even pedaling full speed I've caught myself barely reaching 20 mph.

It has a flywheel instead of a cassette. Do cassette deliver a higher top speed? Are there flywheels that could improve that?
>>
>>1025047
You should be able to reach 35mph easily if you're strong enough on that bike. You're weak. Get stronger.
>>
>>1025041
maxxis ardent- $30 or sunlite makes some cheap ones for $10
>>
>>1025047
thats a walmart BSO- its only $160 new. Selll it and get a used real bike.
>>
>>1025047
http://www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence
enter the number of teeth of your biggest chainring and smallest rear cog. No idea what the gearing is on that bike but with a normal compact chainset with 50x11 you'll probably spin out at around 60-65 km/h
>>
>>1025047

Bad shifting for sure. You need to favor spinning over pushing, always shift to the one that allows you to comfortly spin while still feeling the tire grip to the road. If you have to push to keep moving, you're doing wrong, if you're spinning in lost motion, you're doing it wrong. Find that sweet spot, learn to adjust to the slants and you'll fly.
>>
>>1025047
>flywheel
Freewheel. And no, there's no difference with cassettes speed-wise. Also the fact that you're mashing on the highest gear doesn't mean you're going as fast as you could. Work on your cadence.
>>
So I bought a cheapo fatty for the winter and whoever assembled it routed the front brake line behind the fork, which is really stupid

I don't know anything about hydraulic dick brakes, how do I move with the cable to infront of the fork with the least fuss? Will it shoot mineral oil all over me if I detach it
>>
>>1025052
Ardent was my first go-to but it seems they only make the gumwall in 29". Dunno if I can stomach sunlite.
>>
>>1025046
don't loosen everything, it takes way more work to make it true vertically (i.e. make it a circle) than to true it horizontally so it doesn't rub against brakes in one part

sheldon has a bit on truing wheels
>>
>>1025061
onza ibex- but its $$
>>
>>1025064
No love for 26" anymore in those it seems.
>>
>>1025059
ok I just removed the entire brake assembly and routed it like a normal person should
>>
>>1025047
>flywheel
LOL
It's called a freewheel. Freewheel versus cassette won't affect your speed. The tooth count will. Higher tooth count on chainring (front) and lower tooth count on freewheel/cassette cog (rear) = higher gear = "harder" gear = higher max speed. If you sprint on a flat and aren't in shit shape you'll be able to reach 25-30mph for a brief time. If you aren't that fast yet then just keep riding, you'll get there.

Actually, I think I just responded to a troll post. Well done, good sir.

And if you're serious, >>1025053 is right. >>>/n/bbg can help you pick out a good bike. And if you get lucky you can get a good 80s road bike for $100-$200 (though it'll probably need another $50-$200+ of parts/labor, again depending how good of a find you get)
>>
>>1024752
Yeah i saw a couple of cheaper Cube frames that had both fenders and a rack. Need to look around a bit more to see which one would fit best for me.
>>
>>1025046
Normally you should be able to true it with a spoke wrench by tightening and loosening spokes (both links in the OP post have good articles on truing)
If it's extremely bad then that is likely due to the rim being bent severely enough that the wheel is shot.
>>1025041
DMR Supermoto
Panaracer Pasela ProTite
Kenda Street K40

Any LBS can order you any of those from QBP assuming you are in the US. Otherwise Amazon, Universal Cycles, etc

Make sure you get the right version of 26" though. The Kendas I listed are in 26 x 1 3/8. That is NOT the same 26" as the standard 26". Even though both are called 26", they are different diameters.
If your tires are in decimal size (as opposed to fractional), make sure to get decimal.For example, if your current tires are 26x2.2", then 26 x 1 3/8" will NOT work. If you care about the details, see http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
>>
>>1025079
Nah it wasn't a troll post, just very new to cycling.

I will be buying a decent bike, but not until I've reached a decent amount of fitness. I've never exercised in my life, so just wanted some reference where I should be with this bike. This past weekend I went on a 30 mile ride with an avg speed of 14 mph. So I do believe I'm weak as shit.

I think this bike is fairly decent to begin, like I said I'll get a better bike once I get fit. Currently there's no point to me to go faster since I'm not racing anyone, but the extra air drag with this bike should help me get stronger too (I think).
>>
>>1025082
>Kenda Street K40
Sorry. Should have specified XC/DH tires, not street.
>>
When should I eat? I'm not sure whether to eat before I ride, after riding, or half way through a ride.
>>
>>1025121
Eat some carbs an hour before. More carbs while riding every hour if you're riding for 3 hours+. Protein when you get back.
>>
>>1025124
Thank you. I ride around 3 hours, only eating once I get back. Guess it's time to change that.
>>
>>1025054
>34x10@130rpm: 36.81 mph
doesn't seem like it's that fast

>34x50: 7.36 mph
but i'm also riding up a wall if i'm on the 50 ever (which is never)
>>
>>1025091
>XC/DH
what? do you want fredtreads or knobbies? did you mean AM/DH? or XC/TR?
>>
>>1025129
How do you know you're spinning at 130rpm?
>>
>>1025129
I don't think you have a 50 tooth cog on the cassette. The chainrings field is the number of teeth on the cog at the crank (the largest one), and the cogs field is the cogs on the back wheel (use the smallest one).
>>
>>1025134
He's not the Denali guy. Judging by the numbers he's an Eagle user, or perhaps they make 50t expander cogs now.
>>
>>1025134
not him either but after searching the front is 28X38X48 and the rear is 13-28
>>
>>1024606
Do you plan to start it as a sport, making special stunts on specific places made for this?

If you plan to ride it on the city normally, you shouldn't use this.
>>
>>1024396

Can't speak on the wheels but upgrading my Giant tyres to gp4000s was a noticeable upgrade
>>
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My wheel rim warped, again. Is it common to happen, or my rim is of bad quality? What makes a rim of good quality? Should I pay to unwarp it, or replace it?

What happened is that, some day, the chain slipped outside it's place, and broke many many spokes. I paid to replace them, but 2 were still missing after the shop work. I left it that way, and now the rim warped exactly on this area. Could it be a coincidence only? Now I can't ride properly because the warped part touches the brakes and slow me down every turn of the wheel. Frustrating! I don't even know how much time has passed until I noticed.
>>
>>1025134
sram eagle

>>1025133
newfangled techno-magoogly computationalizer uses some manner of electro-magical sorcery to tell me haw fast i'm spinning while i charge down the flats to the actual trails. it's not super far though, so i'm not like spinning 130 for hours or whatever you roadies do. it's just a sprint to the singletrack on flat pavement.
>>
>>1025147
>missing spokes
your bike shop fucked up bad, man. you need ALL the spokes to keep your wheels trued. they're not optional in any sense of the word. they are a necessary component that your wheels need to operate properly.

i think you should go back to that shop and ask them to do it the right way or replace your wheel entirely.
>>
>>1025149
130 is pretty dam high, most people just stick to the 80-100 range.
>>
>>1025149
>newfangled techno-magoogly computationalizer uses some manner of electro-magical sorcery to tell me haw fast i'm spinning
Fair enough, I thought you were just guessing and thinking you should be going faster than you were.
>>
>>1025150
I know they fucked badly, I stopped going to that shop. But I can't go back, as this non-fix happened more than 1 year ago. Too late now. Say, I pay to unwarp and add the missing spokes, or do I replace the rim? Why?

Not as bad as another that didn't secured the nuts of the wheel axis and due to this the wheel was displaced on my route to home. I came back, but the shop owner disappeared, then I went back to home, and secured the wheel on a more adequate position. Never went back there.
>>
>>1023996
Nigga you could have gotten the keo 2 max for just a tiny bit more which has a larger, metal plated platform for better durability and power transfer and with better bearings too.
>>
>>1025151
pushing it as hard as i can on the way there gets me warmed up and ready to shred and it's seriously not far at all. it's like 4 miles on a rail trail to the country and 2 miles up a country road to the trailhead, like i could arc my piss and hit the parking lot if the wind was right.

like i'm not saying 'im 130 spinnin all day ery day' just that when i hold that cadence for whatever scant few minutes that i do it doesn't really feel like 30-something mph.
>>
>>1025154
it might actually be cheaper to replace the whole wheel at that point. hell, get both replaced (if the replacement wheel is cheaper than the repair job) and call it an early birthday present for yourself.
>>
>>1025158
>it might actually be cheaper to replace the whole wheel at that point
Which point is it?
>>
>>1025150
>your bike shop fucked up bad, man.
It's cute how you assume the shop fucked up and that Anon wasn't a cheapskate opting to only replace the "important" spokes.
>>
>>1025161
This would be completely stupid. Simply absurd.
>>
>>1025154

You might be able to replace those two spokes and fix the rim. But sometimes when you ride with missing spokes, the remaining spokes get over stressed and will constantly break. If they haven't been regularly breaking spokes, you might have gotten lucky. If that's the case, replace the missing spokes and get the wheel trued.

If your spokes have been breaking more, I would get all new spokes and nipples installed on that rim. Or alternatively (and sometimes cheaper), find a replacement used wheel. If you had any bike co-ops/bike kitchens in the area, they'd be a good place to look. 26" rim brake wheels are everywhere, they were the standard for 20 years.
>>
>>1025160
When the cumulative cost of replacing individual spokes becomes more than replacing the entire wheel. Things like the condition of the bearings in the hub and how worn through the rim is are worth considering when making this choice also.
>>
>>1025160
The point at which you can go to a co-op and donate some money and get a used wheel from them. Shit negro, I built a bike out of parts for 60 bucks at my bro-op.
>>
>>1025162
And yet it happens.

Not everyone can afford to replace half their drive-side spokes after they've been mangled by a chain drop and replacing an incomplete number of spokes can mean difference between a bike being technically ridable or completely unridable. I'd rather keep someone going a little longer by replacing a few spokes strategically than tell them "tough, you can't afford to fix it all, so I can't fix any of it; guess you're walking."

Look at Anon's earlier photo; does it look like they put much care into maintaining their bike?
>>
>>1025164
>replacing the entire wheel
Does this includes the tires and air air chambers? These are new.
>>
>>1025168
Moreover if this was what happened, it was most likely done with the agreement that Anon would return to get the rest of the spokes replaced at a later date and they for whatever reason decided not to do so.
>>
>>1025169
Not if they don't need it. Tires, tubes, Cassettes/Freewheels and sometimes even rim strips can all be moved over to the new wheel assuming all the standards are the same.
>>
>>1025163
>But sometimes when you ride with missing spokes, the remaining spokes get over stressed and will constantly break. If they haven't been regularly breaking spokes, you might have gotten lucky.
They have not break after being installed.
>>
>>1025167
>The point at which you can go to a co-op and donate some money and get a used wheel from them.
I think there is no bike co-op on my city! I would need to buy on a shop.
>>
>>1025185
Then ask your LBS if you can look through their pile of wheels in the back from all the guys that get their wheelsets swapped out. Mine has a bunch of stock wheels in the back, stems, saddles and whatever else freds upgrade first.
>>
>>1025168
>>1025170
Hello. I'm the bike owner. I was depressed some years ago and couldn't do proper maintenance. Now I'm trying to solve issues. Also, I received some paid training (scholarship) and I'm more able to pay for things. My father is a miser and hates bikes, so if there are problems with the bike, you know why, now. OK?

He left my chain rupture one day because he didn't want to pay for another chain before the rupture. He said that if a chain isn't broken, it doesn't needs to be fixed. And he made me carry the chain to the store so it could be fixed, instead of replaced. It was long before the case I already told here, about the chain being displaced and hitting the spokes.
>>
>>1025131
Sorry, I'm a bit out of the loop on all the current MTB disciplines. XC/Trail.
>>
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I picked up this sweet Schwinn Tempo for 10 bucks. Lots of rust on it but I want to try and revive it. Do you think it's too far gone? Pics inc
>>
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>>1025221
>>
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>>1025222
>>
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>>1025223
>>
>>1025221
Take a wire brush to it and see how much steel is left under the rust before coming to any decision.
>>
Any ausfags about?

I'm after an 11-speed 105 groupset endurance road bike, thinking of getting this

http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/2017-wheeler-route-1.5-alloy-shimano-105-22-speed/CGRT5CM

any better deals around?
>>
Is getting a Fuji Touring 2016 to replace me old alu trekking/cross bike fitted for commuting, with a ~30% discount a smart move?
I already got myself a "fast" bike to ride fast.

Really liking the Fuji, really not liking how heavy the old bike is.

Pls respond.
>>
>>1025253
I always recommend the Fuji Touring to someone looking to buy-and-ride. It's a great bike and with that discount I would buy it for sure.
Post pics when you get it!
>>
>>1025199
>Then ask your LBS if you can look through their pile of wheels in the back
There is no pile on the back, there is another building. There is no back door, just a 2nd floor.
>>
>>1025245
It almost sounds too good to be true, desu. That said I looked through the component list and didn't find anything disagreeable.
>>
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Hi I'm looking at a Trek 820 ST 21" mtb for sale at 180$ and would like advice on if this is a fair deal.
>>
>>1025296
Hi-ten heavy trash that isn't even worth $100.

look elsewhere and fuck the shock on an old bike unless you want to overhaul it, just git a rigid fork
>>
>>1025299
>Chromoly frame
>"Hi-ten heavy trash"
Do you even know what Hi-Ten means?
>>
>>1025150
>>1025158
>>1025161
>>1025163
>>1025164
>>1025167
>>1025168
>>1025170
>>1025171
>>1025199

People. I need answer to this original question:
>What makes a rim of good quality?
I can't buy another one if I don't know what makes them good.
>>
>>1025300
Well shit nigger, I looked on bikepedia and most of the earlier models I saw that matched the paint scheme all were hi-ten or only teh rear triangle was chromoly
Next time include more info maybe? Still doesn't mean they might not have to rebuild the shock, just cause it looks fine doesn't mean it is. You can find a full chromoly 90s rigid mtn bike for like 50 bucks most of the time near me. Shit I got one at a pawn shop for 20 dollars and it had some new parts on it.
>>
>>1025257
I called the place and told them to hold it for me till Monday.
How good are "mini-V" brakes? Should I change the tyres for marathon pluses outright?
>>
>>1025309
I prefer mini-v brakes to cantilevers, get a bit more stopping power since I have weaker hands, but they're good.
If you're going to commute on it I'd just go ahead and throw the Marathons on there, I believe the max you can fit on the Fuji is 38?
>>
>>1025222
oh wow. I mean, it's _probably_ ok, but you aren't going to finish the job with some touch-up paint afterward. there's no rescuing the original paint job and decals here.

however, this is probably a good thing. by writing off the paint, this frees you to just take it to a pro powdercoat place that will sandblast the frame automatically anyway. after a few minutes of wirebrushing off the most ragged rust, you can outsource the whole process.

I diy'd a frame that was only about half as bad as yours and it was a tremendous PITA in terms of both effort and time. getting it sandblasted alone is worth the money over brushing, sanding and filing that shit off by hand, getting a perfect new paintjob is almost just icing on the cake.
>>
>>1025329
The clerk was sure it'll take up to 35c with fenders (that's a must for me).
I have 38c's on the old bike and will try fitting them in, but if it won't go, then I'll ride the stock tyres to death (32c).
Also, the saddle looks a bit wider to what I have currently installed (and I did switch to a narrower one). Pretty eager to switch that too, but the bike would lose on the looks (brown stock saddle to compliment the paintjob an drown tape for a generic black one).
Ah well, nothing lost until I actually sell the old bike.
>>
>>1025333
>>1025329
Also, good to hear mini-V's aren't completely crap.
Cheers.
>>
>>1025335
Yeah if you want to use road brifters and wide tyres your options are discs, cantis and mini-v's. I'd say mini-v's are worse than hydro discs but better than cable discs and cantis. Good mini-v brakes feel similar to good caliper brakes.
>>
>>1025333
I have a fugi touring, and I still use the stock saddle
It is a bit wide, but its comfy af
>>
Bought a Cateye Velo 7 and was all happy setting it up when I discovered that it doesn't feature my 28-559 tires (Continental Grand Prix). Wat do?
>>
>>1025343
Just go with the closest setting and compare it to a cycling app if you want to see the difference.
I mostly use mine to track miles and not rides, I picked a route I knew the distance of and compared it to what the velo told me and it was close enough.

Close enough is what you buy when you don't spend more for a cyclocomputer.
>>
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Give me a reason not to pay a mere $340 Canadian loonies for chink carbon wheels
>>
>>1025345
What would the closest setting be? I have no idea.
>>
300 pound anon here. Finally starting to get less pain in my assignment riding. Not fully adapted yet though.

Anyone know what is an optimal cadence for a heavier rider? I seem to be going even slower than other riders far fatter than I am.
>>
>>1025377
80-100 is the optimal range, weight should not change anything about the mechanics of pedaling. dont mash heavy gears too much as it is bad-ish for the knees i think?
>>
Is Cateye a good company? Just bought Velo 9
>>
>>1025380
Cateye is pretty based, long history, great products.
>>
>>1025333
different anon with a 2012 fuji touring here
riding 35 marathons (though they call them a 37) on mine and they're perfect for the ridiculously fucked up city streets and occasional gravel i ride on- i'd have gone wider but that tire testing site said they were not as fast rolling. the 35's fit nicely under 45 mil fenders.

http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/schwalbe-marathon-32-37-40-47

I
>>
Recently got a new used bike. Pretty good, except the Ultegra shifters are a bit fucky. Derailleurs shift fine, but sometimes the shifter levers themselves just go nothing - push in all the way but no click. The only way to fix this is to pump the brakes a bit and then try again. What's up?
>>
>>1025406
Just blast the internals with some aerosol lubricant. Or give it some WD40 first if you feel like it
>>
>>1025406
The grease inside has hardened and isn't allowing the ratchet mechanisms to work. Blast the shit out of them with WD40. I've had to use half a can of it per shifter.
>>
>>1025411
>>1025409
Thanks. Should I open them up properly, or just push down on the brakes and shoot it in through the top?
>>
Alright, lads about to pull the trigger on a wheelset

CXP Elite vs Open pro

Both shimano 105 hubs

Which one?
>>
>>1025412
Just shoot through the top (and also through the entry hole for the shift cable if accessible). STI levers aren't designed to be opened up and cleaned more thoroughly, it's not impossible to do so, but difficult.

>>1025414
I'd go for the OPs personally, the aerodynamic advantage of the CXP is pretty minimal, not really worth the 80g of extra weight unless aerodynamics is a huge priority for you.
>>
>>1025417
Going with the OP
>>
>>1025409
>>1025411
Thanks guys, we'll see how it goes on the road, but looks like it worked perfectly!
>>
http://littlerock.craigslist.org/bik/5827102412.html
Bike sells for $400 on their site. Im a little skeptical because it doesnt have a saddle though.
>>
>>1025417

Not trying to be a shit, but could you evem notice 80 GRAMS of weight difference?
>>
>>1025442
Definitely yes, with both wheels that's 160g, or 1/3rd of a pound. That's not much compared to overall bike weight, but small changes to the weight of your rims (and tires and tubes) count extra because of rotational inertia, which means that a heavier wheel requires more force to accelerate or brake.
>>
300 pounds anon again.

What is a good way to practice bike handling and balancing skills? I don't want to keep feeling like I am going to fall and kill myself. Already had a few close calls
>>
>>1025465
Confidence will come naturally as you put more time into riding. As for what you can do to practice, just focus on keeping your weight in line with the center of the bike in turns, and shifting your weight back before braking hard and I think a lot of the rest will follow.
>>
>>1025466
How do I center around turns? You mean I should let myself be a counter balance to the leaning bike?
>>
>>1025337
I have [spoiler]cable discs[/spoiler] in the "fast" bike. They're pretty good. Regular V's in the old bike and they're pretty good too, but that's for commuting so I don't go very fast.

>>1025339
Will have to test it, really. Only sat in it for a little while.

>>1025389
It's not about being fast for me, but for being indestructible.
>>
Hey everyone I'll admit it straight away I have no idea about bikes or anything.

Anyways recently the bolt beneath my seat snapped and I've looked around all the fuckin places that would sell them, can't find any that are the right size. Ended up buying one slightly off size and grinding it down so it would fit and then I realise it's not fucking long enough. Now I'm just thinking the entire thing might be too fucked, most of it is threaded. Anyway will post some pics to perhaps assist but what I really need help with is buying a new seatpost and making sure it's the right size. And possibly a new saddle because the last one I had was from a $30 bike and hurts my fuckin ass if I ride too long

http://www.pushys.com.au/rex-30-8-x-400mm-seatpost-black.html

Would that fit? Or am I getting this wrong? I need help bad guys, oh yeah I ride a Giant mountainbike I'm pretty sure it is. Thanks in advance
>>
>>1025467
Not quite, what you want to do is imagine a line running through your wheels, frame, body, and head - keep that line straight when you lean the bike over, inertia will keep you upright.
>>
>>1025474
Bonus pic of broken bolt next to ground down bolt next
>>
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>>1025477
>>1025474

Rode it until it broke desu bad choice now I know... but I had to get places
>>
>>1025474
whether you replace it or not (you would find that bolt at any decent bikeshop) get a tub of wheel bearing grease from an autoparts store, and put a little bit of grease around the seatpost where it goes into the frame, on the bolt threads, on the saddle rails where they clamp and on that mating surface in the top right hand corner pic. Bonus points for cleaning all these places first.

Then you won't have to overtighten any of the bolts and it won't slip, make noise or sieze.
>>
>>1025480
I thought it all looked way too ruined for it to be any good honestly. But if I do want a new seat post just say... would that be the right size? Been getting conflicting opinions via google and that number on the seatpost itself is unsettling... I don't understand
>>
>>1025482
>would that be the right size?
Yes, 30.8 is the size you need, "⌀" is the symbol for diameter, not an extra 0
>>
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>>1025483
>a straight line passing from side to side through the centre of a body or figure, especially a circle or sphere.

So... from one edge to the other... I measured it at 3cm exactly... are you sure? I mean the measurement I got and the measurement printed on the seat post just don't seem to correlate is all. And this just sorta blew my mind when I did this one... I'm honestly too stupid to own a bike I'm starting to think. Maybe a case of too many cooks in the kitchen? But a bike is my only transport so I really need help with this where I can only hurt myself and not others in a car. Besides I can't afford a license :(
>>
>>1025488
Okay thats the circumference I realise but what really can someone please help with

>>1025474

This? I need to order the seat post ASAP every day makes the difference here sorry. I can't afford to go to a store and buy one they charge at least twice as much there...
>>
>>1025474
Hardware store, try some bolts.
>>
>>1025496
I went to a fastener and they didn't have it. Hardwore stores don't have bolts strong enough for bike seat.
>>
>>1025497
>Hardwore stores don't have bolts strong enough for bike seat.
U wot m8?
>>
>>1025510

Hardware store bolts are not to same quality as seat post bolts. Please I just need help with the measurement... I don't understand... printed on seat post is "⌀ 30.8" as far as I can read but it measures exactly 3cm across... please help time is of the essence for me :(

>>1025474
>>
>>1025488
>I measured it at 3cm exactly
>>1025513
> it measures exactly 3cm across
Did you use a caliper or mic, or just that ruler? You can't expect to be able to measure less than 1mm using a ruler. You're first photo also clearly shows that it's not exact 3cm but rather slightly over. There's no reason to think that the labelled diameter isn't correct.
>>
If you fucked up and used a sanding sponge to rub darkened spokes, and now they are less dull but tend to get rusty (superficial shit but it does appear), what's the cheapest way to prevent it for as long as possible? Steel wool then Wax?
>>
>>1025535
Powder paint.
>>
>>1025520

The labeled size will be correct. Bolts from a hardware store are completely fine for bicycle use. I've bought many stainless and plain metal bolts for random things. As long as they aren't wood screws or anything.
>>
>>1025422
Once they're all dried out you should apply some silicone grease with a small paint brush or q-tip to the internals so they'll keep on working.
>>
>>1025540

I'm not talking about a pro rim, it's a regular ass one, powder coating is more expensive than buying a new one.
>>
>>1025546
just keep a light coat of oil on them. That or clear nail polish.
>>
>>1025355
Do you want to die?
>>
>>1025546
I used to wax them but I stopped driving a car so I never had it around then I tried clear nail polish but I'm a lazy bastard so I just ride to an auto store and pick up a can of rust preventative spray paint in silver.
Good and cheap, just spray and let it set.
>>
>>1025569

Found I have an old can half full of nitro-sintetic aluminium chrome varnish, is it good for this? I've put some with a small painting brush on a busted rim, to see if and how it sticks.
>>
>>1025556
I actually kinda do
>>
>>1025575
If you apply that product to your spokes and the finish sticks (doesn't flake off) then sure, it will presumably do just fine as a corrosion preventative treatment.
>>
>>1025578

I went to rub the spokes I tried it on, and it seems to stick decently, I'm using a wrung very small brush and it's so little chrome I don't even think it will have a chance to chip off. My only qualm is I'll have to either stop right before spokes cross over or deal with that very little intersectional gunk that happens in such situations, not even spray can escape it, unless you want to take apart the wheel, and I'm not doing that.
>>
>>1025357
Anybody? Thankful for any answers
>>
>>1025579
Why not bend the spokes by hand and apply the varnish at the cross before getting the rest of the spoke?

Also, of course the varnish is going to stick while it's still liquid - you're not going to find out whether or not it flakes off until it dries completely.
>>
>>1025581
Read your manual, they explain how to measure and input the exact number you need:
https://www.cateye.com/files/manual_dl/0/704/CC-VL820520_HP_ENG_v3-1.pdf
>>
>>1025577
Do you want to die in one of the most painful ways possible?

Imagine if the cheapo rim snaps, you would be impaled on spokes.
>>
>>1025583
Yeah but was looking for the closest setting because I lack a measuring tape. If it's unfeasible I'll just do a roll test.
>>
>>1025577

go with a reputable chinese company if you're going chinese. Light Bicycle (dumb name) makes good stuff. there are others.
>>
How much does it cost and where would I find someone to replace the rear dropouts on my bike?
Have a shitty old ten speed that had one of the, I think stamped, dropouts crack. Yes I know I need to loose weight.
Bicycle was made in Japan.
>>
>>1025600
At a certain point it would be cheaper to just buy another OTS than fix the one you broke. I believe you'll be at that point when your local welder gives you an estimate.

Find a co-op, get a new frame or just build a new bike. The one I go to has a program where you build a bike with one of their volunteers and learn how to work on a bike at the same time. At the end it only cost me 60 dollars to build a rigit mtn bike and then I went out on a group ride with them. Having friends to ride with is great for losing weight, makes it way easier.
>>
>>1025600
Find a local framebuilder. Ask your LBS if you don't know any. It's likely to cost about the same as a new frame, probably more if yours came with stamped dropouts. A local framebuilder to me charges ÂŁ90 to replace dropouts although this is at the higher end price-wise: http://www.varonha.co.uk/repairs/
>>
>>1025520
Just a bendy ruler... I'm pretty sure I got it exactly across 3cm though. But I'll just trust and get the 30.8 thanks.

Does anyone have any advice for picking a saddle out or anything? I got about 2 hours before I gotta send in an order. Do all saddles fit all seat posts? Anything I should avoid? Looking for something as cheap as possible but not a hard black thing like you get on the depertment store bikes.
>>
>>1025637
I see some saddles that appear to be Chinese brand... I hear that Chinese carbon fibre frames are prone to breaking suddenly... should I be weary of these saddles?
>>
I'll be commuting with a backpack but also going on 4+ hour rides without a backpack, but still want to carry food. Should I get a touring or racing bike? Budget is around $800.
>>
>>1025643
Touring bike especially if you'll be riding a lot of hills. The options for mountain racks are nicer and you get to slap on wider tires than a racing bike. For that budget I recommend a Fuji Touring, the 2016 is $770 and you can tour or commute with it right from the shop.
>>
>>1025647
Can I descent like a madman on it?
>>
>>1025650
get a fucking car since you have such high standards on what the bike should do.
>>
redpill me on fixies
>>
>>1025654
hipster shit, simple as that
>>
>>1025650
yeah like a mad cunt
>>1025654
Fixies are fashion bikes that most likely come with a flip-flop hub which then people just ride it as a freewheel single speed bike. I've seen more and more advertisements with the word "fixie" in them and the bikes they are advertising have people coasting with them in the commercials, it's just a buzzword.

Though, there are some people that just love the feel of it, or like to do tricks (you can pedal backwards) or just don't want gears and like a simple setup.

read up on more here:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixedgear.html
>>
Hey folks, someone in my area is selling a 2011 Orbea Orca SLT frameset for $400 flat. Looks to be in good condition.

Seems like a good deal, should I? For reference:

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchListingDetail.aspx?id=3038610&model=70635
>>
Is it normal to get too tired to bike after only 1 minutes of hard riding? How do I build stamina?
>>
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Guiz
How do we prevent this in the future?
>>
How do you figure out what brake pads will fit on a bicycle? Looking online it looks like I need road brake pads, but when I started looking I found a lot of brands that look like they are specifically made for their own brakes. The brakes on my bike say dia compe, and I found some pads with the same name on amazon, but I wasn't sure.

Alternatively should I just buy new brakes? Sorry if these are basic questions
>>
>>1025773

No reason to get entirely new brakes if they are working fine. Just replace the pads. It's less about the brand and more about what style pad the brake takes. Dia-Compe brake doesn't necessarily need Dia-Compe pads. This might help.

http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html

Kool Stop is a popular choice and makes pads to fit all brake types. You could also post a photo of your brake and we can help further.
>>
>>1025691

That looks like a decent deal for a good carbon frame. I'd ride it.

Make sure you know what bottom bracket it takes and is compatible with what you have.
>>
>>1025782
Thanks for the info. I'll take a photo of it when I get home tonight.

One other question. One of the brake levers is pretty loose and jiggles around and doesn't seem to be pulling the brakes well. Is it more likely to need new brake cables or does that seem like an issue with the lever itself

The bike I bought a few weeks back needs a bit of work. Trying my best to get as much done myself, so I really appreciate the help
>>
>>1025794
Broski, you got a bike co-op or bike kitchen near you? I always do my own work, I just ride down to my local bro-op and rent a bike stand for like 5 bucks an hour and buy cables and housing there. Every so often I just run down to donate tools or parts, pay it forward you know.
Try and find one and see if you can check them out so you can fix your shit.
>>
>>1025798
I'm not sure but I'll look into it. I'm trying to get into riding bikes so I'm pretty new to all of this
>>
>>1025800
Oh yeah definitely look into, the one I go to has weekly group rides that are casual as fug, it's nice.
Meet a bunch of people that just like bikes, riding or working on them. They have classes on how to build a bike or maintenance or even like a safety class on how to ride on the road with traffic. I highly recommend it for new riders, shit's awesome.
>>
So my favoured chain ring succumbed to wear to the point its teeth broke and fell off.
Unfortunately I have no clue what to buy as replacement so it fits the crankset.
The only designations I found on the whole thing say "Shimano A" and "Shimano IG chain only". Not very informative, huh.
I was browsing their parts and seeing that they have both 4 and 5 arm spiders in their assortment it's clear to me that there isn't just one standard regarding this.

How can I determine what will fit? Also can I buy just one chain ring or do I have to get the entire bottom bracket (or maybe even the whole crankset)?
Still, regardless of what I have to replace, how do I determine what will fit if there's almost no description of the already used parts whatsoever?
It's a 5 arm spider if that's of any indication.

Also on an unrelated side note - favoured sprocket is also showing signs of wear and I can't tell what will fit there either.
>>
>>1025783
Would I be able find that info online or do I have to measure the BB length myself?
>>
>>1025835
Just make sure it has the same BCD:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html

You can buy individual chainrings, cheapest good option will probably be a stronglight one.
>>
>>1025841
Well the resource is extremely helpful but I'm still in a pinch.

According to this the BCD of my crank is 68mm (a C-C of 40mm on a 5-bolt) and since internets tell me that's not a valid BCD for a 5-bolt chain ring I'm completely stumped.
There's another set of (unused) bolt holes on the chain ring, but they measure a swooping 85mm C-C for a 144mm BCD (but, more importantly, the crank doesn't reach them).
Am I doing something wrong or is this some weird one-of-a-kind crank I'm dealing with here?
>>
>>1025847
Are you sure you're measuring it accurately and that it's not actually 43.5mm? Measure from the edge of the holes instead of trying to find the centre (from the edge on the same side, so left to left or right to right).

Can you take a photo? Some really low end bikes have non-standard components so that could be a possibility, but if it's that low end I'd expect a fixed chainring instead or removable.
>>
>>1025847
Dunno that's odd. How many teeth on the chainring? if it has another set of holes it sounds like it's the middle ring of a triple. 68mm is really tiny though, like >>1025847 said it could be a proprietry sizing for a low-end crank. Pics might help.
>>
>>1025850
>>1025851
It's definitely an exact 40.0mm regardless of whether I measure center to center or edge to edge. And it's the only BCD on the crank.
After a closer inspection it *is* the middle chain ring, with outermost welded to it (and it's the outermost that has that other set of bolt holes).
So I guess no one chain ring replacement for me? What's worse - I might be unable to find anything to fit the crank since it's has such weirdly spaced bolt holes.
Or is it another standard entirely and I'm just looking up the wrong thing?

The middle one (~68mm BCD) is 34 teeth, the outermost (~144mm BCD) is 42 teeth. Innermost is also ~68mm BCD, didn't count the teeth.
Don't have a camera handy but I can probably borrow one if it proves necessary.
>>
>>1025855
Found it, seems like you're out of luck when it comes to getting replacement rings.

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=111356
>>
>>1025856
>fc-mc16
Yup, spot on. That's the culprit.
Thanks a lot anyway, don't think I'd be able to find it out on my own.
>>
>>1025836

I just looked again, it uses BB30, which is fairly common. But the bottom bracket rabbit hole goes deep. What are you riding now? Post again in the new thread.
>>
NEW THREAD

>>1025929
>>1025929
>>1025929
>>1025929
>>1025929

NEW THREAD
>>
>>1025877
>uses BB30, which is fairly common
You'd think so until you realise that it's all five thousand ever so slightly different but completely incompatible flavours of "BB30" because every respectable frame wrangler should have their own bottom bracket.
>>
>>1026078

yeah, I forgot to add "fairly common for that era". Everyone jumped to BB30 to get away from the BSA/ITA threaded systems and to cheapen manufacturing. Then they all branched to their own. It's a fucking disaster, and I wish they'd all just adopt T47 and call it done. Although my current bike has PF30, and with a Enduro torqtite, I have no complaints.
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I'm aware that Imgur.com will stop allowing adult images since 15th of May. I'm taking actions to backup as much data as possible.
Read more on this topic here - https://archived.moe/talk/thread/1694/


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