/bqg/ - Bike Questions General

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What do I need to take into account in order to buy 2 good rims for my bike?

>>1025943
You don't want rims. You want wheels. A wheel is a hub, spokes and rim - sans tyre. If you ask for a rim you'll be building a wheel afterwards.

What wheel size? It's likely to be 26"/556mm going by the pic but make sure. Then walk into an LBS/online store and say 'I'd like a 26" wheelset for rim brakes and 130mm OLD, please'.

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>>1025946
>A wheel is a hub, spokes and rim - sans tyre. If you ask for a rim you'll be building a wheel afterwards.
I already have hub and spokes on my wheels. I want to replace only the rims. Or should I replace the hub and spokes too?

>What wheel size? It's likely to be 26"/556mm going by the pic but make sure.
This measure on the tire informs this, right? Pic related.

>>1025943
You may also want to make sure that you get a hub for cassettes/freewheel as appropriate, and quick release skewers rather than through axle.

>>1025947
>I already have hub and spokes on my wheels. I want to replace only the rims. Or should I replace the hub and spokes too?
You should replace the hub and spokes too. It will likely be cheaper. Spokes need to be tailored to both your hub and rim, and changing either will more likely than not mean changing spokes. At that point it's way cheaper to just buy a new wheel than have someone relace your new rims and new spokes on old hubs.>>1025947
>This measure on the tire informs this, right? Pic related.
Yes, 559mm is the standard 26" wheel size. My nine was turned upside down for some reason, earlier.

>>1025951
>Spokes need to be tailored to both your hub and rim, and changing either will more likely than not mean changing spokes.
OK, understood.

>At that point it's way cheaper to just buy a new wheel than have someone relace your new rims and new spokes on old hubs.
Wouldn't the bike shop do the job manually? I don't believe it's just replacing the whole wheel.

>>1025948
>quick release skewers
Nope. Ginggers would steal my bike wheels when I stop.

>>1025955
>Wouldn't the bike shop do the job manually?
Yes. Hence why it would take hours and cost almost as much as a whole new machine built system wheelset just in labour, never mind parts.
>>1025957
You still need a QR wheelset even if you don't use actual lever style skewers.

>>1025965
>You still need a QR wheelset
Why?

As of yesterday my bike has gotten extremely hard to pedal. It sounds like there is some cloth rubbing my rear wheel, especially at lower speeds. I checked the basic things: there's no brake rub, nothing touches the frame, and both wheels spin smoothly. It's only when I pedal. Any ideas? What should I look for?

>>1026005
Take the chain off, give the pedals a spin and if you still hear the noise it's your BB

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>>1025946
>say 'I'd like a 26" wheelset for rim brakes and 130mm OLD, please'.
Should I really keep using rim brakes?

>switched out brake pads for the first time
>only had modular allen key tool and adjustable wrench
Fucking sucked.

>>1026007
My bottom bracket was actually just changed by the local bike shop, as well as a new chainset. However, I neglected to change the chain itself. Reckon it could be the chain?

>>1026014
I don't understand why you would swap out new parts and not throw on a new chain? It's less than 10 bucks and you won't be wearing your new components down more quickly with an already used chain.

>>1026010
I fucking hate you

you are the worst poster, worse than fucking sieg

throw your bike off a cliff and follow it down faggot

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I posted yesterday about how to figure out what brake pads I need to buy. When I bought the bike it was like this, so I don't have old pads to use as a reference. Any help would be appreciated.

>>1026019
>you are the worst poster
Why so much hate about me?
I need knowledge, and help, to buy a good wheel that will not fail or waste my money.

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Hi, /n/. I found this guy on my local Craigslist. Folding 26in Montague... for $175. Worth it? I'm a poor Uni student, so I am unsure about the investment.

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>>1026025
Here's a photo of it in action. Thanks for your wisdom & time, /n/!

The local co-op has tons of 70s and 80s road bikes for well under a $100. Anyway to turn these things into decent cross bikes for cheap?

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>>1026027
A road bike won't have clearance for cross tyres, even moreso with old bikes in my experience. Pic related is my early 90's road bike, it doesn't comfortably clear 25c's and I'm currently running some NOS 20c tyres from the 90's on it. Go to the co-op with a tape measure and check out the clearances at the chainstays, you might find an old CX frame.

>>1026024
>to buy a good wheel
and that's when your attempt at trolling failed, you've been asking this whole time about rims and people have been telling you to just buy new wheels

Now you're going to change your mind and say you want wheels?

Fuck you, fuck your mother, fuck your piece of shit bike

You remind me of the faggot that was trying to force "downtube" as an insult around here or the collectible fag.

Go rim a posniggers asshole you filthy faggot, please burn in hell for all of your sins and never post here again.

>>1026031
>and that's when your attempt at trolling failed, you've been asking this whole time about rims and people have been telling you to just buy new wheels

They convinced me to replace the whole wheel. But the wheel has a rim... What makes a good rim? Should it really be a rim-brake, instead of another type of braking?

>>1026026
Do you really need a folding bike?

>>1025929
I don't understand that shirt.

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>>1026021

Glad you made it back. You're looking for pads that look like this.

>>1026038
>>>1026026 (You)
>Do you really need a folding bike?

Uni is in a shithole city and the folding feature makes it so I won't have to lock it up on a bicycle rack. Other than that... nah, I suppose I really don't need one besides convenience and less of a chance to be stolen.

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>>1026021
Any threaded road brake type. The retro blocks may be period correct but anything will work and modern ones are nice from a practical standpoint.

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>>1026042
>>1026047
>dat pic
Great minds...

>>1026042
>>1026047
Thank you both for the guidance. Hopefully I'll be able to finally start riding

>>1026046
Are you allowed to bring it in folded though? You might need to store it in a bag. When I was in uni I commuted with a brompton and I was still asked to keep it in a bag or a case so I ended up just riding my city bike in and locking it up outside instead of carrying it around all day +my school stuff.

>>1025877
I was just going to get a new drivetrain for it, so...

How legit are the sites that sell groupsets on the cheap? Could I just buy a 105 groupset from wiggle and would that fit that in there?

>>1026040
7 inches of rear suspension travel.

>>1026046
>the folding feature makes it so I won't have to lock it up on a bicycle rack
What? Why not?

>>1026066

I prefer thicker stanchion

>>1026065

Wiggle/chainreaction are legit. I'd avoid the weird no name websites though, shady. You can sometimes find 5800 on eBay for good prices.

That group on wiggle comes with regular english threaded bottom bracket, which won't work in a BB30 frame. You'll need something like this
>https://www.praxiscycles.com/product/shimano-conversion-bb/

>>1026073
I think he means instead of locking it up outside, he would fold it and bring it inside.

>>1026066
Is that a lot?

>>1026130
I guess. At the time that photo was taken (early 2000s) it would've been considered a lot and only be seen on DH and huck bikes, these days it's more common and there are more frames with much greater travel.

That said 8 inches would've been a better fit and probably what that frame actually has.

I bottomed out my front tire today after taking a 3 inch ridge from where unpaved road meets paved road from construction at 30km/h, I ended up getting a flat and fixed. Im just wondering, but could anything else be fucked up now?

>>1026031
>or the collectible fag.
At least that's a decent meme.

>>1026140
Sure, you could have knocked your wheel out of true, or more likely put a big dent in your rim - but you would have noticed that during the process of fixing the flat and riding home.

>>1026140

visually inspect the rim, if there's no obvious damage, you should be fine

300 pound anon here. Soon to be 296 from all the riding I have been doing the past week.

Anyone know what I can do to increase my stamina on the bike? I am riding a little further (like 1 minute further) but is small incremental improvement normal?

Also, what kind of place has good, smooth bike paths? The bike path near me has holes and cracks everywhere making me feel like I am going to fall. Are beach side greenways smoother?

>>1026165
download strava and use it every ride, its a valuable tool to all cyclists, if you already have it post yourself and join our club forever shinkansen. You ride on main roads right? not just bike paths? please tell me you do and you arent a living meme. bad roads are something you will have to get used to, the only thing you can do is htfu

>>1026166
Honestly, my bike path is way worse than the main road ridability wise. I am just scared to go on main road because my stamina is so low going uphill and I am scared of my velocity going downhill. Maybe I can benefit from joining a riding group, but I am not there yet. I am trying to get there. Until then, I have to settle with a bike path.

Also, what can I wear for my top during winter months? I hate getting soaked with sweat whenever I ride. I just got cycling pants though. I can't wait to try the padding. Though riding with jeans might have upped my rear muscles

>>1026168
Oh my god you are a living meme on here........

>>1026171
I am a total beginner. I just want to work up my skills to be a proper road cyclist soon. I might even go to Manhattan to ride soon

>>1026172
Don't let that faggy get you down, keep doing your thing fat anon

>>1026168
ride on non consecutive days, ride until it hurts.

Just how much of a meme are high end road bicycles? will you expect much difference from a aluminum frame carbon fork claris/sora/tiagra bike compared to a full carbon ultegra or dura ace bike. besides getting 2 extra gears of course.

>>1026176
How much pain is good pain?

I feel like my lungs will burst

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Anyone have any experiences with BMC bikes? Their new line looks pretty good. Thinking of picking up the Roadmachine 03 but it's pretty expensive compared to similarly spec'd bikes from other brands.

>>1026185
Is X brand better than Y brand? it doesn't really matter tbqh and chances are they are both made by Giant. bmc is just another overpriced European company, you can find similar bikes with the same spec for cheaper.

>>1026177
watch this, you might struggle if you have an attention deficit disorder though
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NF4MIEkIBZs

>>1026180
Your lungs won't burst. If you've gone anaerobic, after a short while you'll ease up to drop back into an aerobic state, either voluntarily or involuntarily. If your gasping for air so much it hurts, back off -- you should aim for heavy breathing, but not gasping so much you can't hold a conversation with another person.

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>>1026192
You might struggle with that video unless you've had a lobotomy

>>1026177
nice things are nice

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>>1026205
>he paid too much for his bicycle

>>1026207
i dont even own a rideable bicycle : (

>>1026192
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NF4MIEkIBZs
>I'm a cycling expert who can do all his own labor, fitting, assembly, and maintenance, and I don't care about racing performance, bike weight, ergonomics, aerodynamics, resale value, how my bike looks, the costs involved in getting a bike from manufacturing to a retail shop's floor, or the fact that bike retailers charge prices that the market will bear
>in my limited experience high-end bikes don't work as well as advertised
>expensive bikes are a scam
He's completely right that beginning cyclists don't need to start on high-end bikes, but his argument is completely retarded.

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>>1025929
I am hoping to gain more mass in my thighs and was wondering if it is worth me getting a trainer for my bike? I squat 5 days a week and go for a 15 min ride up a hill six days a week. I don't want to go on long rides rather short high intense bursts any advice /n/?

>>1026224
sounds like you are doing the right thing. Squatting and sprints will do a lot more for building mass than putting in more kms

Hi lads, britbong looking to get a hybrid bike here. Ideally used to keep the costs down/keep it from being stolen. Going to be using it approx 6 miles round trip to go in/out of town, any ideas on where to start? I've looked into my local shops + gumtree and that's about it so far. Going to need approx 20" frame I think, I'm approx 6ft.

Gonna start dumping a few gumtree links to see if the price/bike is alright. Looking at max £100 for the bike itself.

https://www.gumtree.com/p/bicycles/dawes-discovery-200-hybrid-bike/1197644660

Any ideas on what sort of lock, helmet and lights I should buy to go with it?

>>1026239
I'm based in colchester, essex if that helps.

Is it abnormal for a new ultegra freehub to have a bit of play in it? Does it matter much? Is there anything i can do to fix it?

The freehub itself has play not just the cassette.

>>1026224
bodyweight squats or barbell squats? if you are doing bodyweight squats 5x a week you will not grow at all since there is fuck all resistance and you are doing them so often that you arent letting your muscles get rest. You DO NOT get muscles from exercise, you get muscles from rest. increasing the intensity with low volume actually makes you grow muscles while very little intensity with high volume actually does fuck all to muscle growth.

>>1026242
bearings are fucked, saddly replacing cartridge bearing are too big a job for the home mechanic and you may want your lbs to look at it.

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Going to buy a Specialized Sprint. Is the Ultegra group set worth $300 more than the 105? I'm coming from a shitty $500 hybrid bike so I don't have any experiences with higher end group sets.

>>1026286
No

>>1026286
>Is the Ultegra group set worth $300 more than the 105?
Depends on what "worth it" means to you; it will be lighter and made to tighter tolerances than 105; it's also been my personal experience that shifting between 5800 and 6800 is noticeably better, but the trade off comes when you have to shovel out the extra $$$ to replace things like drivetrain components and there is a pretty substantial gap in price between the two groups.

>>1026327
>it's also been my personal experience that shifting between 5800 and 6800 is noticeably better,
I should note that this is due in part to the fact that 6800 comes with higher-quality cables (which are also more expensive to replace when the time comes.)

>>1026165
good job man, your stamina will go up with time, but it may take a while
as you lose weight it will get easier and easier, until eventually you feel better on days you ride than days you don't
keep going man

I'm 182cm with an 85cm inner seam length, just ordered a (hybrid) bike with a 59cm frame. Did I fuck up?

>>1026330
nah, that's fine
you won't have much drop, but for a commuter or something it doesn't matter

>>1026257

You don't know what you're talking about.

>>1026242

Ultegra hubs do not use cartridge bearings. Is there play when it's installed on the bike? Look up the instruction manual from Shimano on how to adjust the hub if needed.

>>1026334
>drop
?

Sorry not really a bike person yet. I guess it has to do with drop handles? This will have straight handles.

>>1026353
He means that you won't be able to lower the handlebars as much, if that's what you wanted.

The main issue you may have is standover clearance (distance between your nuts and the top tube when both feet are on the ground), if it has a sloping top tube you'll probably be alright. The manufacturer's website may even give a measurement for this which you can compare to your inseam.

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>>1026355
Unfortunately the bike is out of production just recently, which is why I could get it fairly cheap, so I can't see any specs for that.

It will probably be fine. It's going to be used mainly for commuting but I'll also use it for a fairly long ride come spring or summer, might put drop handles on it for that.

>>1026286
no

>>1026356
>crescent
Hello fellow swefriend. You dun goofed. They are not what they used to be and now it's catalogue frames on a huge markup selling on brand name only. A brand that is still strong with non-cyclists for some reason. If you paid anything near 5000kr/€500 for that you got ripped. Return it and mail order something in your actual size.

>>1026356
>might put drop handles on it
Don't bother, it'll be quite expensive. You'll need the bars, probably a new stem, shifters and possibly a new rear derailer, and drop compatible brake calipers unless you wanted to pay a ridiculous amount for hydraulic levers.

It also won't be any more comfortable, if you can even get the fit right. Flat bar road bike frames are longer than drop bar frames and the one you're getting is larger as well.

>>1026358
It was 7500kr. Do you know any other bike I can get for a similar price with road gears, hydraulic disc brakes and a flat bar?

>>1026359
Fair enough, I figured it'd be easy since it already has road gears, but I didn't consider the breaks at all. I'll just keep it with flat bars, it will be fine.

>>1026361
>>1026358
>It was 7500kr. Do you know any other bike I can get for a similar price with road gears (this has tiagra back and sora front), hydraulic disc brakes and a flat bar?
Also orange if possible.

>>1026356
converting a flat bar bike to drop bar never really works out 100% because bikes intended to use drop bars will have a shorter top tube and a longer stem

>>1026361
>hydraulic disk

this may be a unpopular opinion on here, but if you're new to biking and just want something gerneral purpose, you may be better off with a good set of mini-v breaks or even cantis (using normal v breaks doesn't work right with road bike levers)

the main advantage of disks is that when your bike is covered in mud or its raining very very hard they won't loose stopping power. however, they are much more expensive if you want decent ones (and cheap ones are really shitty), and you can't service them yourself

standard rim breaks get a lot of hate partly because people just use the shitty pads that come with the bike, but if you upgrade to kool stops or something they are actually decent unless the weather is terrible, and to me they feel smoother than anything but very high end disk systems

>>1026364
Right.

>>1026365
I like in Northern Sweden and have snow 5 months a year, and a lot of rain. Disc brakes are one of the main reasons I'm upgrading from a regular city comfort bike. That and better gearing (upgrading from Shimano Nexus 7 hub gear).

While browsing for cranks I ran into some that fit specifications perfectly but are claiming to be designed for 9-speeds (mine is 7-speed).
I'm guessing it doesn't matter. Am I wrong? At worst they have wider chain ring spacing, right?

will a 160-170mm fork send me to snap city on a 67-degree hta?

>>1026385
What are you trying to ask? Will such a long fork snap the headtube off the frame? That depends on the particular frame.

>>1026256
What if i want increased functional strength?

>>1026406
same thing, heavy weight low reps. Doing those girly no weight high rep things do jack shit, they only do things for maybe 4 weeks from replenishing glycogen stores in your muscle.

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>>1026362
>It was 7500kr. Do you know any other bike I can get for a similar price
Lots. This for instance: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/eastway-flyback-h1-tiagra-2016/
Full Tiagra 10spd with Deore brakes and Ritchey kit instead of the Crescent Gott och Blandat abomination.
I'd also prefer the Charge 9spd option to your Crescent, but at a lot less money: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/charge-grater-2-2016/

Allowing some elbow room with the specifications, the Kona Dew family and Cannondale BadBoy/Quick, Scotts SUB Speed, the Pinnacle Lithiums and bargain Verenti/Jamis/Charge/Dawes all offer good hybrid options.

Fuck, you can get a Charge Plug drop bar bike with mech discs and almost have enought money to upgrade to semi-hydro left. It would be silly not to if you're already thinking about drop bar conversions and making it roady.
>road gears
Meaning a double chainset. It has no other meaningfull definition on a hybrid. Is that realy terribly important to you, or did the salesman just convince you it makes it sportier and more road? I'm guessing the latter.
You're buying a fucking hybrid, senpai. Drop the pretences. If you have a strong preference for double, state it. Never mind "road gears" and don't artificially limit your selection.
>tiagra back and sora front
It's neither Sora nor Tiagra. It's a mish-mash hodge-podge of all kinds of kit from various line-ups, and the actual derailleurs are irrelevant. The clicky bits overwhelmingly define shifting features and behaviour, and a square-taper non-group chainset kills any hope of a nice group-set-kit weight advantage.
>Also orange if possible.
No but use pic related to compensate.

>>1026366
oh, fair enough
yeah, if you're riding through snow all day then you definitely need disks
I'm from 'bama so I don't really have that problem

>>1026367

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html

I don't see a problem.

I'm contemplating switching from SPD to SPD-SL on my road bike, but I want to try and get a feel for it first--I've never ridden SPD-SL before, but I like the idea of the wider point of contact and I pretty much never walk much on road rides anyways.

Any thoughts on how I can demo SPD-SL pedals/shoes?

>>1026430

Where you at? Do you have a road cycling club nearby? Alternatively, buy it from REI. If you don't like it, easy return.

Don't get me wrong I enjoy riding bicycles, but, it seems I enjoying taking crusty old bikes, stripping them and rehabbing them back to almost new. I enjoy working on them more than I do riding. Is that bad ? Am I alone on this one ; ;

>>1026437
I've tried calling a couple of LBSes about demoing, but with little luck. I'll look into clubs.

>>1026443
You're not alone, that's how I feel too.

>tfw when you love working on bikes but working as a mechanic means low wages, seasonal layoffs, lots of competition for limited jobs, and practically worthless on your resume if you want to do something else later

>>1026448
well duh, the people who work at lbs are students on summer break, its the perfect job for them. being a bike mech isnt a career. The manager at my lbs actually told me if i could come work for him in summer! im a 19yr old student.

>>1026430
If you're already comfortable riding with SPD pedals, you'll find the SPD-SLs perfectly ordinary right out of the box - it's highly unlikely that you'll dislike them. But if you want to try them because you're looking for an immediate performance boost, you're unlikely to find it unless the shoes you're riding with now are extremely casual and have softer soles than a typical road shoe.

>>1026452
I'm mostly looking for the bigger contact patch to avoid some of the hotspot problems I've been having.

>>1026448
I do not work at a LBS. I do this as a hobby. Once I finish I bike, the satisfaction quickly ends and am already looking for the next project.

>>1026455
ah, well then you should just go for the SL's, they'll solve the problem (getting a stiffer shoe that works with your current SPDs would likely solve it too though).

>>1026443
nah, that's what I do
>>1026448
I wrench on cars because it's ez money and there are less freds. People laugh when I ride into work but then get jelly as fuck when I drive my hachi roku in to get it ready for the track

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>>1026448
Here's my current project. A schwinn tempo. Paint is OK but plenty of rust.

>>1026457
yeah, i got some pretty entry-level mtb shoes (Shimano XC31), and they're not particularly stiff, so if i was gonna be replacing shoes anyways, it makes sense to just make the jump.

Just bought a new mountain bike this week so I'm new to all of this. Rode it once and I was gonna ride it today only to find out that the back tire is completely flat. I can't find any punctures, and the valve was only a little loose, but the valve on the front tire was just as loose without losing any air. Could it be the inner tube or something? How could I go about repairing this as a beginner? Or am I better of taking it to the store I bought it at and seeing what they can do?

>>1026462

If you put the tube in a sink full of water and pump some air into it, if there's a leak you should see bubbles from where it came from, you can patch it with a patch kit or buy a new tube. I suspect it was under inflated when you bought it and you got a pinch flat

>>1026462
I have tubes that hold air for a week and some that hold it for two days. Pump up your tires before you ride dude. If you rode it once and it was fine and you let it sit the air just leaked out, it happens, keep them topped up through the week or pump before you ride.

>>1026352
It's not the hub that has play, it's the freehub body. Yes it is still apparent when the wheel is installed.

>>1026463
You got a video tutorial to share on how I could go about doing this just in case?

>>1026466
Check'd
I hope it's just air leaking out like you said. Would it be normal for all the air to leak out though?

>>1026469
I'm pretty sure I just answered that when I said "it happens"

Stop worrying so much, pump up the tire and see if it all escapes or not. All tubes are not created equal, there are some that just leak and they don't necessarily only leak from the valve either.

As for video tutorials, holy shit man, we're not here to wipe your ass either, fucking go on youtube and type in what you need.

>>1026087
>talking with the guy about the Orbea Orca 2011 SLT frame
>he says it's a standard English bottom bracket

Should I be suspicious about this, or what?

>>1026490
Well it's a Shimano crankset so it's going to use BSA which means it'll have a BSA to BB30 adapter fitted.

>>1026490
>>1026491
Sorry, thought you were talking about a complete bike and not just a frame. Still, it may have the stock adapter still fitted and the guy may not even realise that it's removable.

>>1026492
That makes sense.

Never biked before in my life and I'm 20. Want to start this summer going on bike rides since I live near the Santa Ana River Trail in SoCal. What do you guys recommend I buy?

>>1026495
something cheap and functional
fun yet practical
durable yet elegant

>90s rigid mtb

>>1026502
Thanks. There's a bike shop like a 5 min walk from my house but I'm worried if I go there they'll try to oversell me some expensive gear I don't really need

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Should I be worried?

>>1026525
I wouldn't worry at all, that looks like surface rust and it doesn't appear to extend under the paint.

>>1026420
>It's neither Sora nor Tiagra. It's a mish-mash hodge-podge of all kinds of kit from various line-ups, and the actual derailleurs are irrelevant. The clicky bits overwhelmingly define shifting features and behaviour, and a square-taper non-group chainset kills any hope of a nice group-set-kit weight advantage.
What does this even mean?

>Meaning a double chainset. It has no other meaningfull definition on a hybrid. Is that realy terribly important to you, or did the salesman just convince you it makes it sportier and more road? I'm guessing the latter.
I haven't actually talked with any salesman at all.

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>>1026525
I would sand off the rust, clean the area with a wax & grease remover, paint on some rust converter like pic related (dries black), and then cover it with hobby paint or nail polish.

More important imo is to spray some rust inhibitor into the frame tubes. I use LPS 3 i think it's called, but there's a bike specific product called frame saver that's good too. Steel frames are far more likely to rust from the inside out. This is good annual practice.

Another good option is to not give a fuck and do nothing, because a little rust is fine, but just offering some alternatives.

What's your favorite brand of road bike? Why?

>>1026256
Original poster here. Yeah I figured high well get and low reps would be best for but Leung mass like you said high reps isn't good for building mass generally. I am worried that 5x a week might be too much would you recommend 3x a week then? I do understand that by exercisizing you break down muscle fibres and during rest they will be rebuilt in greater volume to meet demands

>>1026358
>>1026359
>>1026364
>>1026365
>>1026420
Damnit these posts are really making me question my choice of bike. I can still return it. I haven't even tried riding it yet.

Does anyone have any suggested alternatives that meet my criteria of road gears, disc brakes and enough clearance to put at least 35mm studded tyres on it, for less than 700 euro?

Drop handles or straight bar doesn't really matter I guess. Drops look cooler?

>>1026573
And of course it needs to have mounts for mudguards. I've been looking at second hand bikes but I live in a fairly small town so it's not really feasible.

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>>1026573
>>1026574
Please respond.

I'm really close to cancelling my order and am considering the Charge Plug 2, however my friend who works with bikes says that hydraulic disc brakes are really beneficial for me as we live in cold climate. He says mechanical are more prone to freezing and require multitudes more maintenance. I'm thinking mechanical brakes are easier to service yourself, but he says it's not worth it.

The plug is almost 2000SEK (~200EUR) cheaper, is a small step down in shifters/gears and has mechanical brakes instead of hydraulic. But it does have a drop handle, wider tyres, and comes in a fancy blue that I like.

What do?

Front seat tube mounted friction-shifting derailer (not E-Type) that worked fine with a 42T largest chainring triple.
Will It will work with a larger, say, a 48T largest chainring triple?

Or cage shape has to match the chainring size, and it is *not* enough to be able to adjust cage height/angle?

Sheldon Brown says it's *not* OK in two articles, but in one he adds an anecdote of how he made it work in his indexed-shifting derailer (which is supposedly harder).

Should I just stick with smaller chainrings to be on the safe side?
I'm pretty sure my riding style would benefit from larger chainrings but if it requires a new derailer then I'll pass.

>>1026602
Interesting. I have honestly never heard of mechanical discs freezing up, I can only imagine that happening if it was very damp and very freezing... where do you live?

>>1026602
>He says mechanical are more prone to freezing and require multitudes more maintenance.
Yes and no. 'Multitudes more maintenance' is way overstating it. The pads will need to be screwed in as they wear and it may need recentering when you take the wheels off. Hydros can self centre a wee bit and adjust for wear automatically. However, if you have leaks or air in the system it's suddenly a type of maintenance not needed on mech discs. Not difficult, but still maintenance and troubleshooting. It averages out roughly the same.

Pros and cons:
Hydros usually have better feel where as mechs can feel a bit spongy, but still less spongy than rim brakes where you have a fucking centimetre rubber block as a brake interface, and no-one throws a fit over that so...
Discs are actually less prone to cold weather failure why they're very popular on fatbikes. The seals and delicate bits of at least earlier generation hydros started to fail and leak when it got seriously cold - (meaning more -20°C blizzard than -5°C November evening) and that was a problem for bikes built mainly for having fun in the snow. The SRAM recall on their first generation drop bar hydros were also about seals failing in cold-but-not-that-cold weather. I believe Shimano had similar but not as serious issues in the beginning. Some brands use automotive brake fluid that attracts moisture, and this can actually separate and freeze in the blocks or lines.
Cable brakes of all kinds have an issue with moisture getting in the cable housing and freezing. I suspect this is what your friend was referring to. It is however an easy problem to fix by using lubricated housing that keeps moisture out, o-ringed ferrules and a bit of thought when installing. Not having naked wire end pointing up and no low hanging loops where water would settle, for example. It is usually easy to fix.

1/2

>>1026602
2/2

Hydro drop bar discs are still only just maturing so expect to pay roughly 10kkr (€1000) for a descent one. I say the latest SRAM Apex 1 1x11spd looks ace and builds of that group can often be had at that price. It's 2.5kkr more than your current budget, but that's not a terrible amount of money, gets you a whole different class of bike and it's definitely less than a near-future bike upgrade would work out to.

The PX Kaffenback or London Road are decently priced. The Kaffenback has less tyre clearance but still enough for Schwalbes smallest studded tyres, but much better looks in my opinion. I'd speculate it has better ride quality too as the London Road is a very heavy aluminium frame. The new Full Monty looks like a much facelifted London road.
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBPXKAFFAPEX1/planet-x-kaffenback-sram-apex-1-road-bikes
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBPXKAFFAPEX1/planet-x-kaffenback-sram-apex-1-road-bikes
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBPXFMAPEX1/planet-x-full-monty-sram-apex-1-hydraulic-disc-road-bike

This was just a quick check at one dealer. You can probably find similar deals if you shop around a bit. Canyon is popular. Obviiusly you stand to save a decent wad of cash if you think you can live with the slightly spongy cable discs. And you end up with less bulky shifters and lots more choices. No matter what you end up buying, cancel the hideous orange monster.
Sorry for turning this into /bbg.

>>1026239
>>1026240
left this a day, any help? I just need some advice lads, I'm a complete newbie.

>>1026655
>complete newbie
>£100
>buying used
You're walking a minefield and there's no way to know what bike might be a complete lemon from looking at some picture. Though I can say with some emphasis that I wouldn't take that bike even for free, but then I'd never buy any sort of bike for £100.

Unless you're a borderline homeless chav on welfare - save up another £200 for a decent bike. Cut down on the fake Burberry if you have to.
Buy a Kona Dew. New, not used.

>>1026618
Northern Sweden, temps regularly drop to -30c in winter for at least a few weeks. Average temperature is around -15 to -20c.

>>1026653
>>1026654
Thanks a lot for your input. I called to cancel the order for the Crescent, however since it's already been shipped I'll still need to accept it and then return it at a shop, no biggie.

I'll make sure to shop around a bit more before making a decision, I'm not REALLY in a hurry more than I want something now. The city bike I currently ride works, if barely due to shifters being broken.

Those Kaffenbacks are about 11.5kkr in total (not counting shipping) which is almost 50% what I'd consider my absolute max budget. It's still a beginner road bike primarily used for commuting that I'm interested in, so I'm not really looking at spending that much (right now or in the foreseeable future) as I'm a uni student.

What concerns me is this
>The seals and delicate bits of at least earlier generation hydros started to fail and leak when it got seriously cold - (meaning more -20°C blizzard than -5°C November evening) and that was a problem for bikes built mainly for having fun in the snow.
Because as I said, I live in northern Sweden and temps exceeding minus 20 degrees centigrade aren't uncommon at all, and I want to be able of commuting even in that type of weather.

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>>1026665
>Those Kaffenbacks are about 11.5kkr in total (not counting shipping)
Np they're not. Keep the price in pounds. You get a shit exchange rate if you change it. They're only £899 and shipping to SE is £40, which makes it pic related at the current exchange rate - including shipping. CC exchange rates are often with minimal or no exchange fees.
Though pedals and fenders are extra of course.

>>1026666
Alright, still some 40% over my budget, which is a bit too steep.

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My $265 chinese carbon clinchers just shipped. Red pill me on the afterlife, will I go to valhalla?

>>1026679
Only if you bomb down a rad hill when they give out and enter Valhalla face first.

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>>1026655
By an odd coincidence I live in Colchester and I'm selling a cheapish road bike: carrera vanquish with sora groupset. Size 54cm frame, chain and cassette were replaced earlier in the year and have less than 500 miles on them.

I'm looking for £150 for it, maybe a bit over your budget and maybe a little small for you. I'm happy to meet up and you can try it out though. I have more pics if you want also, just give me your email or something.

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>>1026687
Oh also brand new gp4kII tyres that I paid £60 for and I'll leave the crud race mudguards on. Another pic because NDS fail in the last one.

Would I be able to put a sram force rear derailleur on a bike with shimomo 105 levers or would I need to switch out the levers too

>>1026707
You need to switch the levers too and there would be no point as the derailleur is an immaterial parts of the group. All the magic is in the shifter. Why do you want the SRAM derailleur?

>>1026711
I had a bike with a sram force group and i got hit by a car and the frame is totaled but some parts are fine. My next bike is gonna be a 105 bike so i wanted to maybe switch some stuff over. Sadly the levers are pretty much destroyed. carbon levers snapped in half

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Should i get one of these for around 70 $? I saw 2 of them for sale online, decent condition, supposedly with the original biopace crankset, shimano everything (brakes, acera derailleurs). It will obviously need minor fixing/setting up. Everyone I have asked told me it is ugly as hell/ a "womans bike", but this is eastern europe so the rigid mtb nostalgia craze is not really in yet, and I love that Winding Refn paintjob. My plan would be to polish it up and equip it with fenders, a seatpost rack and a front rack for multiday "hiking" or touring/winter getting around. Or should I stick with a more regular frame shape in the same price category?

>>1026736
Get that shit and route it with cyan cable housing, fucking RAD

>>1026736
When you buy it, please pls but a I drive sticker on it. or Real Human Bean.

Pls buy it for us.

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>>1026736
what the fug?!~!

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>>1026759
>>1026736
I'm shocked to learn this is not a shoop.

>>1026679
>>1026679
I wouldn't worry, more carbon wheels are built in china than outside of it

>>1026691
Looks very interesting, what part of Colchester are you in? I'm CO2, south side of town. Honestly feels like a waste though if I'm just going to do a round trip 7 miles long into town on mainly bike paths. I'll be on later, gotta get ready for stuffs.

>>1026810
Also it has the problem of "looking to nice" to leave in any area that is shitty. I'm guessing you have experience leaving it in places like the highstreet which is probably fine in the day.

>>1026812
Honestly any bike looks like a theft target if you lock it in a bad area. Locked with a D-lock in a place with good oversight or in a rack with other bikes and no-one will bother with it.

I'm in St Marys, near Jumbo/Mercury theatre. Since last march all I've used the bike for is riding to Stanway and back for work which is a 6-mile round trip. I've got two other road bikes now though and don't really have the space for 3. Bought this one to get back into cycling after a few years off and it did it's job, if you wanted to ride for fun/fitness as well as transport a road bike would serve you better than a cheap hybrid.

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>>1026753
Big one on the seat tube, rubber head on the head tube, text ones on the side of the frame?

>>1026737
Will do if i find and have the budget!

>>1026759
>>1026764
The middle tube looks and is positioned like a regular top tube on an old womans frame mtb. there are two of those top ones intersecting the middle one, smaller in diameter than the rest.

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>>1026759
>>1026764
So if >>1026837 was not articulate enough, here is a pic of the frame.

Planning to order in a couple of hours, so if anybody has a comment please do it now (one correction - it's actually indexed shifting):
>>1026615
Did more research on the subject and the only non-Sheldon articles I found said the only way chainring size matters is chainring triple size *range* since it has to fit within the derailer's cage capacity.
So if I get a bigger triple in which all chainrings go up X teeth (range stays the same) it should be A-OK.
Anyone for the last-second save?

>>1026837
Kinda silly to put stickers related to driving on a bicycle, specially ones that say "I DRIVE".

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Any suggestions on how to make this thing roll smoother. Feels so sluggish.

>>1026855
If you use it on pavement, get some slick tyres, the thinnest you can get for the rims you have there.

anyone ever switch down-tube shifters to brifters on some 80's or 90's road bike? Is it harder than it looks on youtube, and are there a shitload of compatibility issues?

>>1026876
Its not that hard, just kinda pricy
You're gonna have to /n/igger rig cable routing, but zip ties work fine
You'll have to redo all cabling obviously
And you may have to replace the actual derailer depending on pull ratios

>>1026848

Just shooting from the hip, but this sounds like it would work okay. Doing a quick glance at triple front derailleurs available today, quite a few have an upper limit of 48t. There are some that are 42t, 46t, etc. But I think the odds are in your favor, it's hard to tell without knowing your exact derailleur.

One quick test you could do is loosen your cable and move the derailleur up and down by hand to get an idea of it's range of motion. If it can go higher, it could work. But there's still a chance it won't.

>>1026855

Don't ride in that gear, for one. Look up cross chaining and how to prevent it. You generally want to spin at a higher cadence.

>>1026884
What? He's on the big ring/small cog, literal opposite of cross-chaining.

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>>1025929
Should I buy this one for $70? It says "very good condition".

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>>1026888
One more picture.

>>1026888
$70 would be a bit much
would buy for like $45

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>>1026838
looks collectable af

anon must buy the bianchi and get the stickers and the cyan housings

>>1026892
>$70 would be a bit much
Thank you Anon, that's what I thought.

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>Aero
Is this a good type of rim?
Searching online, people most talk about aerodynamics, wind tunnel, and other marketing bullshits. I'm not a pro competitor, I just want to ride my mountain bike on the city, fuck.

But the LBS mechanic told me that, as this type (Aero) has 2 walls inside, they are less prone to bending than "common"/"normal" ones. I'm really upset by how many times my rims bended on the last decade.

So, should I buy this type (Aero)?

>>1026883
It's from an old Shimano Alivio 1997 set, couldn't find exact model id.
It does have a free-reign in terms of height adjustment since it's seat-tube attached.
Only question is about the cage - if the only concerning metric is its capacity then it should be perfectly fine.
On the other hand if cage is shaped for 42T tops somehow and I get a larger one I may run into some trouble.

Worst comes to worst, I could just do some "manual" cage adjustments to make it fit.
Thanks for opining.

>>1026831
Tempted to come and have a look at it tomorrow/sometime this week if possible, I'm in town doing stuff pretty much all week and you aren't that far off, can meet past 3:45 pm~ pretty much all weekdays or whenever on the weekends. I would need to get a few things sorted first like a good lock/helmet/light/visjacket ect.

Want me to give you a temp email or something?

>>1026914
Sure, I'm off work tomorrow. hmu with an email address.

>>1026917
[email protected], No idea if I can reply with this email it's a temp one.

I finish at 3:30 but will be walking from east side of town so approx 4? I'm missing locks/helmet and other stuff at the moment so will likely be just to see what the bike is like. Assuming amazon doesn't fuck me over with delivery I should be able to buy it on the thursday or whenever it's convenient for you onwards.

>>1026920
sent you a mail. If you can't reply from that one you should have my email address now to reply from a real one.

>>1026923
sent a reply, couldn't reply with temp. Should probably keep email chatter off the board from now on.

>>1026855
>>1026885

d'oh, my bad. shitposting before class. I didn't mean cross chaining. But I regularly see people riding in small cog/big ring around town pushing about 30 rpm. Easy way to feel "sluggish". OP, disregard if you're just posing the gears for a photo. Otherwise look into chain lubrication (or new chain), repacking your hubs with new grease, making sure tires are properly inflated, making sure brake pads aren't dragging, check derailleur pulleys are spinning freely.

>>1026901

I think your mechanic is referring to a double wall rim. They are stronger than cheap single walls and would be worth the money, yes. But the aerodynamic benefits of that rim on a MTB ridden around town is zero.

>>1026901
>>1026928
Another question I have is about the hubs. They sell ball bearing, and roller bearings. The roller bearings are much better?

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>>1026981
I wouldn't say one is better than the other, they are just different. Nearly everyone has moved to cartridge bearings, with the exception of some track hubs and Shimano.

ball bearing (also known as cup and cone)
>easily serviceable at home with cone wrenches
>simple design, has been around for 100 years
>can chose your own grease used
>typically spin "more freely"
>last for-fucking-ever if maintained
>need to be serviced more frequently if riding in harsh/dirty environments

roller bearing (also known as cartridge)
>set and forget, usually no adjusting required
>replace entire bearing unit when worn out
>replacement is more involved, sometimes special tools required
>can last years without change or fiddling around
>don't spin as freely, but still great rolling
>typically better for harsh/dirty environments

So it's just a matter of choosing what is important to you. 95% of people will choose the cartridge bearings for ease of use. If you're one to enjoy changing your own oil, the cup and cones might be worth a look. Otherwise I would probably go cartridge for a city bike.

>>1026989
>If you're one to enjoy changing your own oil, the cup and cones might be worth a look.
I never did this.

Thanks, based on what you told me, the roller bearing will be better for me.

Got a 2015 Giant TCR Adv. frame for $700 used. How fucked am I?

>>1027011

Who cares? Just ride the snot off it

So I just got my new saddle and seatpost. Is it necessary to grease the seatpost etc? It's not a great bike but... will there be any noticeable difference? Is it alright if I just do it a bit later when I get some good grease?

>>1027018
Unless your frame or post is made of carbon fiber, then you should always apply some grease to the post to prevent it from getting stuck in place by corrosion/oxidation. It takes several months at the very least for a post to become stuck, but you should still grease it right away - grease is cheap and if you do it now you won't forget later.

>>1027020
Okay thanks, I'll do it as soon as I can ride down to the hardware store and pick some nice grease up

Is aluminum frame + carbon fork really all that bad?

>>1027042
No? It's the standard for low-mid range bikes, and some manufacturers are taking it more seriously recently with high-ish end stuff with ultegra and such.

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How hard would it be to ride a fully rigid 90s mtb off-road?

I have a bridgestone mb-5 that I bought when I knew nothing about bikes. I still know not much about bikes, so I'm a bit stumped on what to do next. The flat bars and frame geometry make the position way too relaxed and extremely uncomfortable to go moderately fast in, and for the brief time I had the seat post really far up I looked like a flaming faggot and the post popped out once. Also it still has thick ULTRA MOUNTAIN EX tires that lose grip if I lean moderately. Seeing that the bike is still in fairly good condition, would it be worth refitting it with drop bars and slicker tires? Or would getting a budget gravel/cx bike be a better choice?

On the subject of cheap cx bikes, I popped into bikesdirect and they seem to have cheap bikes with decent parts sets and REALLY low prices. Scouring the internet, I've not found anything damning about all but the cheapest road bikes they sell. I've also seen advice to hand assemble them (which shouldn't be too hard since I have access to an entire bike mechanic's toolset for free) to avoid issues with their construction.

I apologize for sounding like a whiny faggot asking to be spoonfed, but being on the poor end of poor college student I really don't want to waste my money and I haven't found online any other resource that has answered these concerns in a way i can understand. Yet. Sorry again.

>>1027079
depends how tough the trail is and how much skill you have

>>1027080
Cornering on pavement with knobby tires is problematic because the side knobs flex if you lean over too far, so yes, if you're planning to be doing most of your riding on pavement (or packed gravel) you should pick a more appropriate tire.

As for modifying your MB-5 to be more like a road bike, I wouldn't try it unless your mechanic friend also has spare handlebars, brake levers, etc. that you can install and experiment with. If you have to start buying new parts then it's not going to be worth your while, you should buy a cheap new/used bike that better suits your needs from the outset instead.

What you read about BD bikes is correct - they're good value as long as they're properly assembled and inspected before use.

>>1027042
It's a great combo.

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>>1027079
People used to ride rigid off road all the time, because that's all there was. I shred the local singletrack all the time on rigid (pic related)

>>1027080
Retrofitting a mountain bike meant for flat bars with drop bars is a lot more involved than it seems.

First, drop bars place the hands further forward relative to the handlebar clamp, so unless you want to dramatically increase the reach of the setup, you need a shorter stem. You may also need a higher rise on the stem as well if you don't want a big saddle-to-bar drop. That's easy to do with old threaded steerers and quill stems, but you may have a hard time finding an appropriate stem if it's a modern threadless steerer.

Then there's the problem of brakes and shifters. You aren't going to be able to use the shifters and levers off your flat bars, and you need a fair amount of bike knowledge to know what's going to work right with the derailleurs and brakes you already have on the bike. It's not worth spending the time to write about specifics unless you're serious about doing a drop bar conversion - in which case you should post a photo of your bike, the brakes, and the derailleurs.

>tires that lose grip if I lean moderately.
Knobby tires suck on pavement.

Replacing crank & BB.

Quick question:
Do I get a BB of the same spindle length as previous BB?
Thanks.

More info:
Goal is same chainline (47.5mm)
It depends on distance from crank mount to end of inner chain ring, but that measure is not provided on any crank ever.
Should I therefore assume all cranks are standardized in this regard (and the answer to my question is YES)?

>>1027239
If you're replacing both just go ahead and get a two piece crankset like Shimano's Hollowtech II, not only do you not have to worry about axle lengths it's easier to work on (no puller needed) and most likely stiffer and lighter.

>>1027242
Already have the puller, cheapest hollowtech is more than double the price and I may run into deraileur cage capacity issues.
Plus I know literally nothing about the hollowtech technology. I still need a specialized BB for it, right? The integrated spindle confuses me greatly.

>>1027252
You can pick up cheap cranks on Ebay, sure you can get cheaper square taper stuff but it's not exactly expensive. Bottom brackets can be had just as cheap as square taper ones, probably last longer too unless you're one of those people that repacks loose ball BBs.

> I may run into deraileur cage capacity issues.
How so?

>>1027256
Just checked Ebay. My retailer offers better prices.
I got a really good deal deal on both ($59 for FC-M4060 & SM-BB52; $33 for FC-TX801 + BB-UN26), it's more of a matter that I'm kinda just trying to "make it work" for cheap.
Though that Hollowtech II is looking mighty good all of the sudden...

>How so?
Currently running on 42T to 24T chain ring range, going 48T to 28T (FC-TX801) is upping the range by just 2 teeth; FC-M4060 is 48T to 26T for 4 extra teeth, which may or may not be beyond current cage capacity.
It's *probably* not a big deal, just a one more thing to worry about.

>>1027263
Just get a bare crankset, no rings, then either carry on using your old ones or buy new ones separately (likewise Ebay has tons of cheap ones).

>>1027263
The TX801 is junk with non-standard chainrings, once those wear out you'll have to replace the whole thing again.

>>1027267
All good suggestions. Can't use old chain rings since it's a welded triple with non-standard BCD (and also broken teeth).
Buying a separate inner chain ring if I run into deraileur capacity problems is a great idea though. I'll keep that in mind.

Think I'll go with the Hollowtech II. Sure, I'm just doing cheap repairs, but I *do* plan to use it for as long as possible, so that's probably worth the extra $26.
Thanks for everything, sorry my quick question turned into a lengthy conversation.

>>1027270
Are you sure? All sources I found said it uses 104/64 BCD.
Can you recommend a good source on these things?

>>1027274
I'm going by the images I found, this one shows all three rings riveted together and it looks like the only attachment point is where the smallest ring is pressed onto the arm near the axle hole (probably permanently attached).

https://nodari.com.ar/i/Platopalanca_FC-TX801_-_Shimano_Touney_170mm_42x32x22_negro_con_cubre_1425677312_grande.jpg

>>1027275
Oh okay. That's a useful tip.

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>Circular tumblr pin lock
Is this kind of lock really unsafe?
The LBS tried to sell me a thicker cable to replace my actual cable. But I don't want cable locks, as they are easy to cut. The LBS even told the D-lock is bad due to being heavy.

So, the only model of D-lock they had uses this tubular tumblr thing, like pic related, but without being broken. Is it better to keep my actual cable lock, instead of replacing by the other one?

>>1027287
Those locks can be opened with a pen cap. Avoid at all costs.
Just go to a different store and get a proper Ulock, hell, even supermarkets carry them sometimes.

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>>1027287

Kryptonite used this style lock cylinder until it was found out that you can break into them with a pen. U-locks are good and worth the weight, IMO. Pic related is close to ideal.

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>>1027290

>>1027290
Tfw I still have a kryptonite ulock with a shitty tumbler mechanism

>>1027290
This image is terrible advice, the cable lock needs to be independent of the U-lock (and be attached to the parking rack) if it's to provide any deterrent value.

>>1027290
at that point you might as well make a chain out of u-locks

>>1027299
The point of the cable lock is to prevent theft of just the front wheel, something that happens quite often. If they manage to cut through the U lock they'll have no trouble with whatever padlock you stick on the cable lock.

>>1027299
Meh, there was some guy here during the spring that just went around cutting off the cable locks and taking front wheels. I guess he thought it was fucking hilarious or he just had shitty snips that could only cut the shit-tier cables.
That strategy is just to not carry as much shit and deter the thieves that just try to take front wheels with quick releases. Best would be u-lock+loop chain so you can lock up mostly anywhere if the u-lock can't fit around the object you are locking to and to make those fuckers have to carry a battery-powered angle grinder and even then it only takes ~two minutes per lock.

>>1027302
Is right, if they can cut your u-lock, they can cut that cable lock easily and you'll be the one carrying around another key for the cable lock or thinking a combo lock can't be broken in ~1 minute.

Shit advice mate, stick to the back of the bus.

What's so special about Canyon Bikes? I keep seeing people on forums etc lusting after them, but I don't get it. They're not cheap, they're not super light, the customer service seems quite poor

>>1027322
>they're not super light
Aren't they? Most of the listed value for mid-high end stuff seems quite reasonable. The listed weight for the 105 ultimate cf sl is 7.6 kg which assuming that's not a big porker is lighter than my ultegra bike from [other brand]
>not cheap
3200AUD for an ultegra carbon roadie seems cromulent

I think people like the aesthetics a lot and it helps that people like Qunitana are winning a lot with them, probably?

>>1027322
There aren't any bad road bikes. They are all good. The differences aren't much.

Canyons aren't discount bin Merida, but they are cheap for a euro brand, considering the marque has a lot of prestige with Movistar and Katusha winning races on them.

They also sell with a complete group and good wheels and good tires, unlike most low- mid range road bikes which swap in a cost saving crankset, brakes and come stock with anchor wheels and $5 pieces of rubber.

I think they look quite good but the color schemes are awful. I'm not sure who would actually want a black on black on matte black bike.

>>1027305
>to make those fuckers have to carry a battery-powered angle grinder
They can use a car jack too, to snap the lock.

>>1027289
>>1027290
Which tumbler mecanism should I choose, then?

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so I'm just building up a city bike with leftover stuff.
I bought a pretty weird frame that I would like to use as a base.

it's a kross grand millenium.
it has a 1" ahead fork and 135mm spacing in the back along with a slightly sloping geometry.

now I wanted to use a crank I have lying around that uses a gxp bb.
I thought it would fit since the frame is european and has those weirdly modern features.

it dosen't seem to fit however.

the old bb is similar to the picture but instead of 122 mine says 113.5L.

can I use a gxp bb on this ?
I just tried a shimano road hollowtech 2 bb
I'll see if I have a mtb one and try that.

>>1027352

also

I have a27,2 seat post lying around and a 25,4

the 27,2 dosen't fit but it's super close.
the 25,4 also dosen't fit. can I use something as a shim ?

>>1027353
Aluminium stock from a beer can.

You could also sand the larger post a bit.

>>1027363

nice, I'll try a can.

the 27,2 post is carbon , so I probably shouldn't sand it

>>1027352
That BB number is the spindle length, just get a longer one

>>1027366
the gxp bb dosen't seem to screw into the shell.
are hollowtech2 bbs not 24tpi ?

>>1027352

I just noticed that the new bb I tried to screw in there is 36x24 so it just dosen't fit.

>>1027390
36mm diameter? That's an Italian bottom bracket and the right side cup will be normal threaded. Hollowtech bottom brackets are the more common BSA threading (which most square taper ones are) and the right side cup will be reverse threaded.

Scroll down to Bottom Bracket Threading: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html

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>>1027348

Anything but the round style you posted, really. Those were easily exploitable by pens, but most thieves just attack the actual body of the lock. They don't sit there with lock picks like some spy agent.

All locks are breakable, you just want to make it not worth the thieves time and prevent opportunity thieves from easily walking away with your wheels or whatever. Leave a bike somewhere long enough and people will steal everything off of it.

>>1027347
The grinder is for the security chain not the u-lock but yeah you are correct, which is why you should carry the smallest one you can so they can't fit it in there or make sure you use put as much as your bike inside of it as you can, such as taking off the front wheel and locking it in the rear.

I got soaked today. What's the best set of mudguards for basic 26" MTBs?

>>1027432
cardboard + duct tape = $1 fenders if you're cheap

>>1027432
Planet Bike Cascadia fenders

>>1027432
Milk gallon plastic and zip ties there are templates online

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Hey guys. The head of my dinky Nishiki standing pump came off the end of the hose. Is there a way to fix this myself? I tried jamming the end of the hose back in but it wont fit. Not sure if I'm missing some kind of adapter. Do I need to order a new hose on Amazon?
-dumbanon

>>1027432
I like using ~1L bottles of diet dr pepper, zip-ties and duct tape.

>>1027455
Does the part of the head that attaches to the hose unscrew? similar to how it screws on to the body of the pump? If so, unscrew that, pull out the broken bit of hose stuck in there and put the hose back in, then screw it back on.

Never fixed one myself but thats how it looks like it works from that pic.

>>1027440
Seems great but I'm not in the US and they don't have anything in my country.

>>1027437
>>1027451
>>1027458
Thing is I need a front fender with good coverage to protect my shoes and pants.

>>1027461
>shoes and pants.
Use shoe covers and wear a different pair or pants? Get some rain pants but they'll leave you sweaty anyway.

>>1027459
Dude, you just made my day. Yes, indeed that part screws off (it was just on really tight). Can't believe I missed it. Now I can go for a goddamn bike ride instead of having to wait for a part. Thanks!

>>1027461
If you want real fenders go to your local coop and they probably have a stack of old ones that they'll sell you for nothing

If you just want something fast and easy, make a flat, 4" wide rectangle out of cardboard and tape it to your downtube towards the tire so that nothing splashes up towards you

rear fender is probably more important though if you don't like having mud on your back

>>1027430
Thanks for the tip.

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>>1027289
>>1027290
So, I went into another LBS (a more expensive one), and they said they don't work with this kind of lock (D-lock), only cable locks.

Should I visit a third one, before giving up?

By the way, those locks here are too bad?
http://www.kryptonitelock.com/content/kryt-us/en/products/product-information/current-key/997962.html
http://www.kryptonitelock.com/content/kryt-us/en/products/product-information/current-key/001041.html
They are being sold on an e-market platform of my country. But they are more expensive than my new wheels! I think this makes the cost/benefit bad enough to not buy them?

>>1027519
How expensive are they where you live? Those should go for like $30 or $40 at most since they're the mid-tier ones. In any case keep in mind it's an investment, and it'll last you pretty much forever.

>>1026989
Gonna be pedantic here. Good information, but your names are bad. Shimano cup & cone could be referred to as *loose* ball bearings, but simply "ball bearing" is so general as to be meaningless.

And a cartridge bearing is not necessarily a roller bearing. In fact, pretty much every cartridge bearing hub I'm familiar with uses ball bearings, not roller bearings. Roller bearings are not common on bikes at all.

There was a fad a while back for using roller/needle bearings in headsets (and IRD still sells one), and SKF's bottom brackets use roller bearings on the NDS of the spindle. A lot of internally geared hubs use roller or needle bearings.

But on a "normal" bike, pretty much all bearings - loose balls or cartridge, in the headset, hubs, or bottom bracket - are ball bearings.

Lads, got new wheels and riding was fine until I got toward the end of me route when the front brakes started to make rubbing weasing sounds. Is this normal when breaking in a new wheel or could something have gotten on the brakes? Alignment issues maybe. Looked and sounded fine the start and middle of the ride.

>>1027519
You should go to another bike shop. Even that one you have in your pic is prob better than the best cable lock

>>1027557
If your wheel is out of true you'll be able to see it - spin the wheel and watch the gap between the rim and brake pads.

When you got on the bike and rode forward on the wheels for the first time, did they make a pinging and clicking noise? If so, the cause is that during the wheelbuilding process, some of the spokes were twisted and hadn't settled fully into place. That's perfectly normal, and simply means the wheels need a final touch-up truing.

>>1027562
Yes, the second part of your post is true. Is that something I can do myself or will I need to take it to a lbs?

>>1027563
depends, can you true wheels yet or not?

Help me defeat my inner jew to go to a LBS and pay retail for a proper bike fitting instead of buying online for much less

>>1027523
>Those should go for like $30 or $40 at most since they're the mid-tier ones.
They are costing like US$79. My new wheelset costed US$68. There's not much worth to steal on my bike, besides the wheelset.

>>1027586
Shit. What about Abus or OnGuard ones?

>>1027611
The Abus on the e-market are only cable locks, and cost even more, as they are for motorcycles.

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>>1025943
>>1025946
>>1025947
>>1025948
>>1025951
>>1025955
>>1025957
>>1025965
>>1025992
>>1026010
>>1026019
>>1026024
>>1026031
>>1026035
>>1026901
>>1026928
>>1026981
>>1026989
>>1026991
>>1027553

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP!
I bought new wheelsets: roller hubs + anodized spokes + double-wall rims. I'm much satisfied by the change!

I discovered, though, that there is still something weird with the bike: the cogs are bent. When I spin the back wheel, and stop it, the front and back cogs appear to be "dancing". Like they are oval instead of circular. And the front cog, looking from above, spins to left and right. The springed arm of the back derailer goes to the front, and to the back.

Is it really bendind on these parts?

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if you ride alone always, is there a way to know if you are good on a bicyle?
because i can achieve certain stuff but maybe a person with born skills can do that with half the preparation. so if we did same ammount workload his performance would be betetr.
in other words i dont know if my training results are ok.

thanks! sorry for the broken english,hope its understandable.

>>1027558
I went to a third bike shop today. On this one, people couldn't even understand my request.
>Hello, do you sell here locks that looks like a big D.?
Notice that the joke you may observe doesn't exist on my language. They simply couldn't understand what is a D...

>>1027646
>is there a way to know if you are good on a bicyle?
You just need to pedal it to go forward, it's very hard to be bad on this. Do you follow the transit rules?

>>1027648
i think you didnt understand me, im talking about stuff like VO2 capacity or simply something done wrong. if i train 3 times x 2 hours and one time for 4 hours a week, im i going fast enough? is it harder or easier for me than the average workload -> performance stats?

thanks!

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>>1027645

Wheels look good, make sure you keep them locked up!

Do you have a freewheel or a cassette? (pic related)

>>1027647

U-lock is another word for those kind of locks. Are there chains available?

If your bike isn't worth a lot, I would just get thick cable lock and make sure it can secure both wheels with the frame.

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>>1027658

Okay, I just looked up thick cables available from Onguard. The expensive big cables are still rated about the same as their basic U-lock. I think pic related would be fine, but they're expensive. Good luck anon. Try your countries eBay/amazon maybe?

https://www.sfbike.org/resources/theft-locking/

I feel like my fingers are too short to comfortably reach my brakes.

Is it likely i can adjust my grip by either moving the hoods on the bars or messing with any tensioners/springs?

>>1027658
>Do you have a freewheel or a cassette?
Dunno

>>1027698
Yes
Post a picture of your cockpit

>>1027652
You probably have to go to some lab where they test that stuff with a bunch of breathing maskes and patches to keys muscles

>>1027652
you just need to be a little faster is all.

>>1027698

You can move the whole unit around on the bars on all brake levers obviously. Shimano and SRAM's newer shifters have a lever reach adjustment screw so you can move the lever closer in. I have the same problem, handlet reporting in, and annoyingly I have Campagnolo on my bike which doesn't have this function so I just have to stretch my fingers.

For such a revered company, Campagnolo really gets it's shit kicked in when it comes to things like brake quick release and reach adjustment. Starting to wish I had a different groupset.

>>1027646

Its hard to say. Buy a bike computer and log your avg/top speeds and compare them online and you'll get a half decent idea.

If you can hold 30kmh for long periods of time then you are a fair bit faster than an average person.

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Anyone have experience with these tapered conversion bottom cups

I want to get a chinese rigid carbon fork for my fat bike but I have a straight tube and the one I want is tapered

>>1027906

works just fine.

i had my lower cup from gusset.
your headtube has to be 44mm though

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How is this type of locking called?
(look at the keys)

>>1027658
>U-lock is another word for those kind of locks.
This name is wrong, they are clearly a D.

>Are there chains available?
Dunno.

>make sure it can secure both wheels with the frame
Actually, I can only lock 1 wheel and the frame. So, should I not only get a thicker cable, but a longer one also?

>>1027660
I checked "my country's ebay/amazon", and the Onguard costs almost the same as my new wheelset, or more.

does anyone know if you actually need axles above 9mm qr or 10mm thru-axle for doing shit like 5 foot drops and shit?

>>1028003
It's gonna depend how much of a fat arse you are, how often you intend on doing big drops, your suspension setup (if any), and your ability to absorb the impact.

It's perfectly possibly for 9/10mm axles to survive drops that large. I've personally done a few 5 foot drops to flat on them and never bent one (once on a 100/120mm travel fully and a couple times on a 160/170mm travel bike, bottoming the suspension each time or close to it). However I only weighed 130lbs at the time and I have experience from riding some trials and BMX back in the day.

>>1027999
"Dimple key"

>>1028008
Thanks. It looks cool, technological, and modern. But Wikipedia says:
>These keys are relatively easy to not only pick, but also make impressions of.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Key_(lock)#Dimple
So, I should avoid them more than "normal" Yale ones?
This one on the picture has only 1 row of dimples, to make things worse.

>>1028003
It's fairly unlikely that the axle will ever be the failure point when landing a drop... Your wrists and ankles are considerably weaker and the wheels would also break before the axle. I did once meet a guy walking his bike home who had had the end caps of the QR break off and then the axle fell out, but that's a freak accident almost certainly due to a manufacturing defect or more likely, not having it tightened properly

The reason thru axles are popular is really lateral stiffness (and personally I never like the idea that it's technically possible for my wheel to fall out if I don't tighten the QR enough, even if it is unlikely)

Why don't bikes have kickstands? I have an RLT Niner, should I put a kickstand on it

>>1028016
>(and personally I never like the idea that it's technically possible for my wheel to fall out if I don't tighten the QR enough, even if it is unlikely)

I've had this happen due to shitty bike shop service.

>>1028017
Something else that can break, the weight, the added stress to your frame on a very specific point... idk, have you ever had a kickstand fail on you while your moving at a high speed?

NOT FUN.

Kickstands are for mommy bikes, and they should never be ones that are one-side only.

If my chain briefly skips every few revolutions, it's a sign that it needs to be changed, right?

>>1028195
It's a sign something needs replacing, does it happen in every gear?

That said you might replace the chain and find other parts of your drivetrain are so worn they cause problems and need replacing too.

>>1028196
Oh yeah, it seems to happen mostly on every gear. The drive train is in deplorable condition and I'll switch it out once it gets warmer but for now I hope I can temporarily solve the issue with a new chain.

>>1028197
a new chain isn't a good temporary fix, it'll be worse
as the old chain wore it wore into the rest of the drivetrain too, so your cogs are all spaced a bit oddly now, and your chainring is probably sharktoothing
it kinda works because the chain is stretched as much as the gears are worn, but if you replace the chain it'll get worse because the new chain won't be stretched and won't lock in place properly

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I have a hub dynamo, but the cables are mor than 10years old and I'd like to replace them (party to learn how the cabling works). and in the short term I'd just like to cut the old cables off entirely

problem is: part of the cabling goes through the frame (like pic related only my frame isnt broken) and I have no idea how that was done. Also I'm not sure how to get the cable out of there.

my question is: Is it "safe" to just cut all cables off? Or is it possible I'll permanently fuck something up?

>>1028256
>attach string to end of wire
>poke string into entry hole
>use vacuum cleaner on the exit hole
>pull the string through the frame

As long as you note down how it was wired an replicate it with the new wires it should be simple.

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My LBS told me to replace the chain every 3 months as preventive measure. Is this information correct? I don't replace it too often.

>>1028265
how far do you ride in 3 months?

>>1028268
Urban transportation only. It was less than 12 Km per day last year, this year it's less than 4 Km per day.

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Is this really the BEST lock for my bike?

>>1028269
That's nothing, that chain should last you years even. Chain wear is measured in distance ridden, not time passed.

>>1028271
That shit will probably explode with a kick

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>>1028272
>Chain wear is measured in distance ridden, not time passed.
The LBS owner told me that thing about the 3 months after I asked the price for this wear measurer. The tool to measure is more costly than a new chain, is this right?

>>1028276
Yes, but it'll last you forever. Alternatively you can DIY, it's not rocket surgery

>>1026328
> higher-quality cables (which are also more expensive to replace when the time comes.)

this is so wrong

>>1028265
What is the name and location of this store? I wish to firebomb it

What does it mean when my chain sometimes slips on certain gears (not usually jumping to other gears, just slipping the cog and giving the rider a mild scare)? Is the chain just worn, if so, what chain will work on an 8 speed shimano cassette reasonably well? Thanks, yes I'm new and I love you.

what#s your thoughts on zero setback stems on roadbikes ?

>>1028316
chains are sold according the cassettes they're designed for, any 8-speed chain will do, regardless of brand.

>>1028320
maybe if you had bars with very, very long reach (long bullhorns? lauterwasser?), or had freakishly short arms you could use a zero setback stem on a road bike, but really it's almost unthinkable that you'd ever achieve proper fit on a road bike with zero offset.

>>1028316
http://www.wiggle.com/cycle/road/chains/

Filter results by speed for 8 speed chains

>>1028320
Could be good. One of the things I hate most about drop bars is they make the bike steer like a boat because your hands are so far in front of the steerer tube, I've always wondered why they don't just make the top tube longer and use a shorter stem and bars with less forward extension.

>>1028322
It may be possible if you normally fit a rather small frame and a larger frame has enough slope on the top tube so that you can stand over it, combined with the shortest reach bars you can find (no idea how much variance there is with drop bars). If it was a bike being built from scratch then a flat bar frame would be even better as they have even longer top tubes.

>>1026991
>>1026989

You can take the seal out and repack a cartridge bearing easy. And replacement is far easier than everyone makes out. Cup and cone is dead and nobody should waste time with it.

>>1028276

They're literally a piece of metal worth £1. Don't fall for the park tool meme.

I want to buy a sequoia elite.
any chance I can grab a good deal on black friday ?

>>1028288
Brazil.
Why firebomb it?

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>>1028274
And how about this one?
>Zong Li

>>1028337
It would take me longer to take out my cutters out than to cut that piece of shit. I'd probably just force it off with leverage and ride off with your bike without busting them out.

Just get some hardened security chain, wrap it with a tube and a good thick padlock or even one of the u-lock/d-locks people use on motorcycle disc brakes.

>>1028336
They're ripping off customers,casettes do not need to be replaced every 3 months unless they're made out of cardboard

>>1028346
>cassettes do not need to be replaced every 3 months
The man said nothing about the cassette (gear/cog), it said about the chain itself.

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>>1028341
And this one, what do you think about it?

>>1028347
10sp-11sp chains generally last 4500km or so. No need to replace every three months unless you're doing heavy mileage.

Ok, so sidewalk riding, I know... I know... it's frowned upon here but I tried my usual route today and it just went so much better than normal.

Usually it's nothing but big trucks or dudes in old boats driving alongside me and yelling at me to get on the sidewalk (it's not illegal here) so it was starting to rain and I said fuck it. I got on the sidewalk to get home and there was no one walking on it, it's a huge car city and too hot most of the year for most people to want to leave the comfort of their car. The bike lanes today were filled with trash, gravel and were getting wet.

Help me /n/ I feel like I'm getting corrupted by the comfy sidewalk. it's a smooth ride, wider than the bike lanes here and no one is using it.

>>1028432
If that's the environment you're in, take advantage of it.

>>1028380
>10sp-11sp
SP = Speed?
I'm not going to race with my MTB.

>>1028470
Yes, it's a different way of saying gears, if your bike has 10 "speeds", then it has 10 gear combinations

>>1028477
Not quite, speeds only refers to the cassette in the back. An 11 speed bike could have 22 or even 33 gears for example. Then there's the fact that everyone refers to old 2x5 bikes as ten speeds (and a lot of the time even if they have a larger freewheel in the back).

>>1028432

nothing wrong with sidewalk riding as long as you don't bother anyone.

Hello
Looking to get my bike refurbished. It's a shitty 96 Mongoose Sycamore.
On average I'm probably going to spend $110 for the work and parts.
The bike itself is probably worth no more than 50.

Is getting it repaired worth it, or should I be looking at getting a new one?

>>1028477
>if your bike has 10 "speeds", then it has 10 gear combinations
It has 3 gears on the front, and 6 at the back. So, there are 3x6=18 combinations. Would this mean I have 18 speeds?

>>1028586
It's a 6 speed bike (and so takes a 6 speed compatible chain), it has 18 gears.

>>1028594
Should I put more speeds on the back, the next time I replace the chain?

>>1028451
>>1028544
I didn't see a single person walking today, got to work less sweaty maybe due to less stress from the road. Guess it's not so bad after all.

Just makes me realize that the city doesn't know what the fuck it's doing putting bike lanes on streets with a 40mph speed limit.

>>1028596
If you want to replace the derailleur, shifters and probably the wheel, sure.

>>1028596
You probably could, a 7 speed freewheel may fit and your shifter and derailer may also work if it's not indexed. If not you'll need to replace both of those and space out the rear axle and spread the frame a bit.

As to whether it's worth doing, probably not. I don't think you'll get any more range from a 7 speed freewheel and it's time and money that could be better spent elsewhere.

>>1028598
>and probably the wheel
THE WHEEL? WTF
I replaced my wheels last week. Why would I need to replace them again?

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>>1026893
>>1026753
>>1026737
Delivering soon. Still have to get those housings somewhere.

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>>1028606
Printed some stickers already

I figured since it's black friday it might be a good time to find a trainer, the biggest issue though is that I live in an apartment and would prefer something that was as quiet as possible, any suggestions?

>>1028608
>>1028606
ano/n/ is a real hero

>>1028686
and a real huma/n/ bean

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ok, bros, recently purchased my first proper road bike (inb4 its a retro pice of crap). Im loving this bad boy, shimano 600 aka vintage ultegra everything, 20mm tires but im ok with it, so responsicve, fun, cathes speed with easy etc...never thouhgt road bikes could be so fun (im coming from mtb).

What Im having problems with are the brakes, both single pivot - front more than the rear. I dont feel the problem is the strenght of the calipers (levers and calipers feel pretty solid) but it seems they lack contact on the rim (front rim is mavic MA40, rear is ambrosio super elite).
Will changing the pads enhance braking?
Front mavic rim is an absolute catastrphy on the wet and feels like braking on oil unlike the rear brake that bites in far better on ambrosio rims.

>>1028599
>your shifter and derailer may also work if it's not indexed
Not indexed.

>I don't think you'll get any more range from a 7 speed freewheel
My idea is replace the chain, derailers, and gears the next time I go to the shop. Is this sufficient, or do I need to replace something more, like >>1028598 said?

>>1028843
I just looked it up for you and a 7 speed freewheel is only a tiny bit wider than a 6 speed so you should be okay, at the very worst you'll need to add a thin washer as a spacer for clearance for the smallest cog and slightly spread the frame. You'll be able to keep your current shifter and derailer, you'll need to adjust the low limit screw on the derailer.

If your current freewheel is really worn and needs replacing anyway then go ahead and switch to 7 speed.