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/bqg/ - Bike Question General

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Thread replies: 328
Thread images: 37

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Old one >>1017655

Bikes are good for your health, for your city traffic, to the global climate, for economic equality, for your mind stability. They are amazing.

If you have a question, get in here.
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Would it be silly if i printed my name with my country flag and put it on the top tube of my bike like on pro bikes?
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>>1020213
Follow your dreams anon
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>>1020213
also should i put 2 small ones on the side or one large one on the centre? why you may ask?
A E S T H E T I C S
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>>1020213
Nothing wrong with your name. I'd only have the flag if you race at least as a domestic pro or ride a lot abroad.
>>
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>>1020209
what kinda bike should i get
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>>1020223
90s rigid mtn bike with slicks
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I've bought a single speed upright(ish) riding position bike and I have at least 3 moderate inclines on my way home

Will I be alright or am I in for a lot of huffing and puffing before my legs become corded steel
>>
>>1020234
If they were steep inclines I'd have thrown a
>not getting a 3-speed
at you but you should be fine, stand up if you need to or walk it if you don't want to waste your legs until you can just mash up the hills.
>>
>>1020223
Venge ViAS with new dura ace 9100 di2
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>>1020236
>getting the 9100 DA
Enjoy inferior shifting performance than 9000 DA, 6800 Ultegra, and 5800 105. Probably even worse than the generation before that also. Shitmano went full fucking retard with their rear derailleur design in the latest generation.
>>
Upgrading my hardtail to 10 speed from 8 speed

I have an 8 speed road derailleur laying around, and I thought I heard somewhere the 10 speed mountain pull ratio was the same as 7/8/9 for road

Could I use an 8 speed road derailleur with a 10 speed trigger shifter?
>>
Reposting

I've got an old MTB with M70/R V-brake brake pads on the front and unspecified ones on the back (both wheels are the same type, though). Will I be able to buy http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/clarks-72mm-v-brake-pads/rp-prod55821 and put them both on the front and the back? I googled a bit on brake types but I found no explanation really.
>>
>>1020241
you need to check how the pads mount to the brake levers themselves
if your current brakes have the same mounting hardware then its fine
>>
>>1020239
>i have no idea what im talking about
Shadow shifts fine. If anything, the mechanical FD is the only one to worry about because it uses a cam system which is exposed to the elements.
>>
>>1020240
Yes
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>>1020245
Good thing you pointed that out, my brake pads use simple metal posts so they're unlike those in my link. I'll check if the fittings have a model name on them tomorrow.
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>>1020266
the post style is a bit older, but you can find replacements without too much trouble

kool stop also makes brake pad holder/pad systems that can come with posts where you can just replace the pad without replacing the post each time too
>>
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This link says:
http://www.linuxcomp.com.br/produto/12/pneu-pirelli-26-x-2.0-scorpion-mb1-s-arame-anti-furo-kevlar
>TPI: 60 Foldable
Is this good TPI amount?
>>
>>1020223
One that has 2 wheels.
>>
When paired with a HRM, does Endomondo spit out a fairly close estimate of kcals burnt?

Also, it's simple enough to work out how much i should be eating to lose weight. It's simple enough to work out how much fuel i need when riding(with a purpose/training). But when combining the two? Any ideas or resources?
>>
I'm building a bicycle equivalent of cycle-ergo.com, if there's any features you'd like to see please let me know.
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>>1020322
Put a super aero tuck button so we can see that butte-on-top-tube position pls
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>>1020286
Looks like an OK tire, but those brazillian prices are complete bullshit.
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>>1020328
Why the prices are bullshit?
Why it looks OK, due to TPI alone?
>>
What should I look for in a mountain bike SPD shoe that I'm mainly going to use for road riding? Using a SPD-SL shoe is not an option.
>>
Best bullhorn-like bars for a mountain bike? I've got bar ends on now and I feel like a retard.
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>>1020335
?
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>>1020336
why not spd-sl?
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>>1020337
You'll be a complete retard by putting bullhorns on a MTB
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>>1020339
Already have SPD pedals, and I'd like to be able to walk
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>>1020341
Not road bullhorns, just something with ends to grab, like the Scott AT or something.
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I think I had 4 of these wheel reflectors in the beginning. But this year, I had 2 - I think I already lost 2 of them on the last decade.

Some weeks ago, 1 of these last 2 detached, and broke as was hit by the bike. Also, it splashed near an old man on the sidewalk, and this worries me.

Should I remove this last one?
What have I did wrong about fixing this on the bike wheels?
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>>1020349
Literally the first thing i remove from a bike
Adds unnecessary weight
>>
>>1020351
>Adds unnecessary weight
They don't weight a gram, dude.
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>>1020286
60 is probably what the majority of tyres are, it's a medium amount. A higher TPI tyre will be lighter but less puncture resistant and the opposite for a lower TPI, it can also have an effect on rolling resistance but there are also other factors like rubber compound and tread design. Chances are it'll serve you perfectly fine.

>>1020337
What is it about the bar ends that you don't like? There are many different variations to try giving you far more many options than the bullhorn style bars available.
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>>1020349
The style you have doesn't really hold on well.

The ones I like are shown in the picture: they have a plastic screw-thing. You put the reflector on a spoke, then insert the screw-thing from the opposite side and turn it a quarter-turn and it locks on pretty well.

These come in a couple different shapes, but the white plastic screw is the same. These are common in the USA, dunno where you are.
>>
>>1020336
>>1020342
If walking is a serious concern, then you can get shoes with soft soles, which are less good on the bike but all around much more useful.

If it's a moderate concern then a normal hardsole mtb shoe with grip around the cleat is basically like a road shoe but you're not walking on the cleat.
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>>1020349
>lost 2 of them on the last decade
Plastic becomes brittle when exposed to sunlight, so old reflectors are easily broken by accident.

>>1020336
There's a little more variation in the stiffness of MTB shoes than of road shoes - any clipless shoe will have a stiffer sole than a pair of walking shoes, but more casual MTB shoes won't have a sole as stiff as a typical road shoe. If you want a walkable MTB shoe that will work well as a road shoe, look at the racier, higher-end models (avoid entry level and casual-style ones).

>>1020240
No, 10 and 11-sp Shimano MTB shifting uses a unique 'Dyna-sis' ratio that makes those shifters and derailers incompatible with anything that's not Dyna-sis. You could use a 10-speed road shifter with an 8-sp mountain derailer, but not vice versa.
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>>1020353
Hm, I tought initally that higher TPI was better, due to having more threads to have more resistance. Wikipedia couldn't help.

So, I searched and found this text: https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/01/05/tpi-and-tire-performance/
It says TPI is irrelevant for comparing tires. What do you have to say about this?
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>>1020362
TPI is a good general indicator of tire quality - but not a perfect indicator, because not all manufacturers measure TPI the same way.
>>
>>1020362
You can't compare tyres by any single factor alone, whether it be TPI count, width, rubber durometer, etc. TPI can become useful when comparing otherwise similar tyres, or even more so when a manufacturer offers a particular model in different TPI counts.
>>
>>1020364
It's really only Conti that's weird, and they get away with it because their rubber compounds are better.
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>>1020354
>The style you have doesn't really hold on well.
I reached the same conclusion.

The plastic-screw ones I never had. I may check in my country, thanks for showing.

Are wheel reflectors really desirable, for I need to buy new ones? Should I buy 4 units?

>These are common in the USA, dunno where you are.
South America.
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>>1020327
I've added it to the wishlist.

This is what I'm shooting for, haven't started on any of the bike frame constraints or joint constraints or logic for drawing the end result yet, but hoping to be able to have a stick-figure man on a stick-figure bike that you can modify the variables and it'll update the image and give you a reasonable idea of what the fit will be like.
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>>1020385
Oh dope, that looks much better than I expected.
Please allow to put on a pepe or wojack head so we can use it for images in threads. Not to belittle your site into making it into some memegenerator but some fun stuff would be cool and it would honestly make me use it more. But that's just me. Thanks for taking my suggestion into consideration.
>>
Bike gear everyone should have if any?
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>>1020362
High TPI means less rubber. It makes for a lighter tire that it more supple— it deforms/grips easier— because the tire is basically fabric with rubber barely "painted" on. But it's also less resistant to punctures.

Low TPI tires, then, are more rubber than they are fabric. They are heavier, theoretically have less grip because they deform less. The upshot is that they are typically really tough— and cheap.

If you're not racing, anywhere from a 30-60 TPI is fine. The lower the better, especially for commuting.
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>>1020364
It also doesn't work the same even if measured the same. Some weaves and fibres are stiffer than others even at the same dimension. Further still, a weave can be loose or tight with the same fibre dimension. The tight weave would be much stiffer while also having a higher TPI. The loosely woven cord would be much more supple than the TPI would indicate.
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>>1020385
That's gangster. Keep us apprised.
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>>1020399
>High TPI means less rubber.
Sieg, is that you? Get the fuck out and take your misconceptions with you.
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>>1020402
It's a good generalization to understand the concept better.

And no. I'm not Sieg. Get the fuck out and take your misconceptions with you.
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>>1020398
Something to keep a spare tube in, multi-tool and maybe a snack. Could be a bag, on your bike or on your person, a jersey or a tool roll.
Anything else you can call someone for help or walk to the nearest bike shop.
Weather appropriate clothing is the most underrated thing gear you can buy.
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>>1020398
Necessary:
helmet
pump
water bottle
good lock
You really should have it:
Multitool
emergency kit (spare tube and way to change and fill it)
riding shorts
rear light
Get it if you can:
gloves
front light
other riding gear/jersies
cyclocomputer
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>>1020404
>>1020408
Regarding clothing I know no one gives a shit about me but do you have any alternates to tight bottoms I don't like my ass being so visible
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>>1020410
What are you, straight?

Seriously though, there's nothing wrong with cycling in ordinary clothing - cycling gear is just designed to be close fitting so that it doesn't flap around in the wind, and having a close fit is better for managing body temperature, wicking away moisture, and avoiding discomfort that can from loose fabric rubbing your skin raw. That said, it's not like you're going to burst into flames if you ride wearing jeans and a hoodie - you'll just be in sub-optimal clothing for comfort while cycling is all.

If you want to use bike shorts and look normal, you can always wear ordinary pants/shorts over them (in hot weather I like to ride places wearing just bike shorts, then pull on a 'presentable' pair of shorts over them when I arrive places).
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>>1020410
Mountain bike shorts with padding is a good to get you to decide if cycling specific clothing is for you. Otherwise just throw on some shorts and ride. Cycling underwear exists too, I have some that are like boxer briefs I wear under another pair of shorts if I'm going to be stopping somewhere for a while, I'd rather not have to be taking clothes on and off unless it's a jacket.
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>>1020411
>>1020412
Thanks, I think I'm going to stick to my old jeans and hoodie for now until I'm comfortable. Do you guys ride in the winter?
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>>1020413
I ride year-round. Getting your gear just right becomes much more important when it's cold and snowy, but if you're prepared and determined you can cycle through almost anything short of an actual blizzard.
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>>1020413
I live in Arizona, I try to ride year-round but there are some 115F+ days that just make me not enjoy it so I take public transport for most of the ride. Winter here is a joke, it's like other people's fall so it's an easy time to ride, some comfy layers and full-fingered gloves are all I need.
Find a different type of lighter jacket, hoodies get me too hot and the hood ends up bothering me.
>>
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What does everyone think of sugino mighty competition road cranks vs the dura ace 7400 cranks?
I have both and they're about the same weight.
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>>1020209
What type of bike should I get for traveling about 14 miles twice a week, and 3 miles the other 5 days? From my experience with a cheap road bike, pure road bikes don't seem reliable enough for regular commuting of longer distances. I've had flats happen regularly (probably 1 to 2 times a month with only riding 3 miles 5 days a week). I'm considering just buying a scooter for more reliable transportation that won't take me an hour to do (on the days I need to ride 14 miles), but I do need to live pretty cheaply. This is the bike I've been using, which I'm sure wasn't a smart choice - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EFTPXO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1
Also, would a motorized bicycle be a good option here?
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>>1020433
I forgot to mention that the rear wheel has needed to be replaced twice, and the spokes fixed around 4 times. I've only really ridden it for 1 year worth of time, doing <3 miles 5 days a week, so I've had more trouble with it than usual. Front tire has worked pretty much perfectly though.
>>
about to order microshift SB-R473 sti shifters for my touring bike

any expreience with them?
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>>1020433
90s mtn bike w/city tires or whatever hybrid bikes are around you for now. I bought a steel trek hybrid for a 100 bucks and used that to commute 12 miles round trip errday for a year or so till I just bought a road bike to make the trip more fun/faster.
That bike is just cheap shit, the rear wheel was probably not built or tensioned correctly and you rode it to it's limit. Looking at your used bike market is the first thing to do if not, to keep it under 250 have a look at

http://www.bikesdirect.com/

Buddy rides one of their older basic road bikes and it's held up for 2 years of daily commuting.

Motorized bikes are fucking lame, pedal or fuck off, if you want to be lazy buy an e-bike.
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>>1020437
I have Microshift R8 shifters, they work fine.
>>
>>1020235

I've heard about people ruining their knees and supposedly their hips as well climbing hills so since I can't shift which would you advise:
>learn to climb seated
>learn to climb standing
>learn both and switch between dependent on steepness
I'm assuming a mixed method would be less stressful on joints but I don't know
>>
>>1020403
>understand the concept
You don't understand the concept, you illiterate twat. Threads Per Inch refers to the weave of the cord, where a high number would indicate a thinner thread being used, giving a more supple carcass. It has absolutely nothing to do with the amount of rubber.
Stop "explaining" things you don't understand and go eat you tendies, sieg.
>>
Recommend me a good bike to buy from craiglist.

https://houston.craigslist.org/search/bik
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>>1020464
What kind of climbs are you doing? Unless you're doing like 1000m ascents regularly it really doesn't matter. Just ride up the hill.
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>>1020471

about 3-4 200 to 300 metre gentle to moderate ascents. Only one of which has required me to stop and get off but can be powered through on a low gear if I'm feeling particularly cocky
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>>1020470
Height? Inseam? Penis size? What kind of bike?
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>>1020236
i dont wanna be a road racer though. i wanna huck myself off a ski resort like rachel atherton
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>>1020479
also my budget is $4500 including kit. i really just don't know what to buy for downhill park riding.
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>>1020487
Norco aurum or any big enduro bike for versatility and pick your dedicated downhill bike later
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>>1020477
6' , 30-32, 7 ", road bike or something to commute with
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>>1020470
well, since you're in h-town its gonna get stolen
so just buy something cheap
>>
>>1020428
Both are great. If you can't decide which to use on a bike, just consider that the Sugino's look like 70's cranks and the 7400 look like 90's.

>>1020493
>https://houston.craigslist.org/bik/5806282437.html
decent option, nice because it comes with all the accessories you'd want for a commuting bike
>https://houston.craigslist.org/bik/5809813746.html
A bit pricey for what it is, and I'd change the tires for pavement use, otherwise near optimal
>https://houston.craigslist.org/bik/5836708550.html
Like the first bike posted, but nicer and lower priced too
>>
hey /n/

I'd like to buy a specialized sequoia elite.
that thing is quite expanisve though.
anychances the prices will be lower during winter ?

generally does the retail price of a bike decrease ?
>>
>>1020518
New models come out annually, around spring in the northern hemisphere. You can usually get a 20-40% discount on last years model depending on the seller and how much old stock they have to get rid of.
>>
>>1020518
>generally does the retail price of a bike decrease ?
prices generally drop when the current model year updates, ie. the 2016s reduce when the 2017s are released.

thats a sick bike btw.
>>
>>1020521
>>1020520

great !
the sequoia came out in september though, so it'll get updated around that time right ?
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>>1020464
Doesn't matter if you ride them seated or standing. Just power through them.
>>
When your tire goes flat on the road is it better to patch it or just replace the tube entirely?
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>>1020591
depends how much of a hurry you're in
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>>1020591
I carry a pack of instant patches which are usually enough to let you finish the ride. Then patch or change the tube when I get home.
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>>1020591
If you have co2, then carry as many tubes as cartridges. If you have a pump carry a kit with a dozen patches.
>>
>>1020360
>Plastic becomes brittle when exposed to sunlight, so old reflectors are easily broken by accident.
They broke when they flew off the wheel, and the wheel rolled over them. I think it's not related to becoming brittle.
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>>1020365
OK, which factors do I need to compare tires?
>>
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UK fags which is the best road bike £300? I been looking at some and the best I found is the B'Twin Triban 500se which also has carbon forks?
>>
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My bike chain is KMC. Is this a good brand?
How to know when to replace it?
>>
>>1020610
All of them.
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>>1020617
Could you please list them?
>>
>>1020618
I'll list what I can remember. Width, weight, durometer, thread count, tread design, price, bead type (some people actually carry folding tyres, also they're lighter and I think better for runnign tubeless), puncture protection.
>>
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>>1020612
get one
they're $10-$12
>>
Are ebike good?
>>
>>1020612
Decent brand, use them on my single speeds and they're like 8 bucks or less if you buy the brown ones, idk that is but I guess people don't like poop brown chains.
>>1020626
Yes, ebike gud if yer old or lazy.
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>>1020622
i got one off amazon for 3 dollarydoos.
>>
>>1020622
Or simply use a ruler
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>>1020648
A simple ruler isn't going to do the same job. Calipers would but then you have to remember the numbers, it would also probably be more expensive but they'd also have other uses.
>>
>>1020651
If Sheldon says a ruler is enough then a ruler is enough
>>
As I have gained flexibility, I have lowered my stem. I now have 3cm of spacers above my stem and am going to cut my steerer tube down soon.

If, however, I want to maximize resale value, would it be helpful to leave some extra steerer on for the next owner to mess around with?
>>
>>1020678
Yes, as long as you actually plan on eventually selling your bike. Riding around with a spacer stack on top of your stem looks silly as hell.
>>
So this is gonna be my first winter commuting on a bike, what's a good pair of gloves for winter riding that never goes below freezing but is sometimes rainy? Ideally I'd like to keep it less than $40 USD, too, if at all possible.
>>
Would biking 20 miles a day on road with also no incline build muscle in my legs and butt?
>>
>>1020678
Just mount an accessory bar instead of cutting it
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>>1020700
accessory bar?
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>>1020701
SLAM THAT STEM and then with the extra space on top mount another stem+ a shortened bar to attach lights, computers, phone, etc...
I did it when I was lowering my stem gradually and didn't want to cut the steerer.
or go full troll bike and put some risers on top for comfy rides
>>
>>1020710
but

>muh gramz
>>
>>1020711
If you were really a gramsfag then you'd cut the steerer for your fit and fuck thinking about the resell value fag
>>
>>1020655
In this instance, Sheldon was wrong. Roller wear is as important as chain wear as it causes the chain to ride low on the cassette and thus reducing the effective diametre of the sprocket. This has the same tooth spacing mismatch effect as the chain being too long.
A chain rule measures both roller and pin wear, where ye olde yardstick only shows pin wear. As not all chains have comparable roller to pin wear ratios, one can not rely on either to infer the other.
>>
>>1020469
You realize that more thread equals less rubber, right? Displacement, mate.
>>
>>1020644
THREE DOLLARY-DOOS?! TOBIAS!! Did you buy a chain gauge off Amazon dot com for THREE DOLLARS?
>>
>>1020441
Thanks. Two reasons I wanted an e-bike over a regular bike is that it would probably increase avg. speed by around 5mph, even though I'm usually pedaling pretty hard, which would help since I do need the time (would be working and trying to go to school, at least for a little while). Secondly I currently already work in a physical labor job, although not particularly strenuous. I'm definitely worried about working my body too much. Seems that a motorcycle/scooter wouldn't even cost much more up front, and with insurance/gas, so that might be my best option, although I could still use a regular bike in the mean time.
>>
>>1020748
Go to /o/ for advice on that type of bike.
By pedaling pretty hard do you mean mashing or high cadence? learn to use your gears and spin so you don't tire your muscles before work.
I work a physical job, move shit that's 50-80 lbs all day and still ride to work the 5 miles it is.

if you're an old man then go with a scooter, if not harden the fuck up.
>>
Never bought a bike for more than €100, is the basic model of Specialized Crosstrail a good first serious buy?
>>
>>1020754
Avoid any suspension in lower-tier bikes even if it's a recognized brand. You aren't getting your money's worth.
Figure out what kind of riding you want to do and go to a bike shop to test ride some bikes.
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>>1020695
no
>>
>>1020754
It's a short hop commuter for casuals. If you know what kind of riding you're doing, you're better off getting that than a crosstrail.
>>
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I finally memed my shit up since >>1017832

Am I cool now?
>>
>>1020766
I hope you don't use that bike for flat riding because it'll be frustratingly slow
>>
>>1020769

About 32 km/h at 90 rpm on highest gear. Good enough.
>>
>>1020773
Huh, that's better than I would've expected
>>
>>1020753
I usually set the gears so that there's a fair amount of resistance to push the pedals, but low enough that I have a fairly high cadence. My muscles haven't been tired from biking as of yet, but it was a worry for me transitioning to full time work, and increasing the distance by a lot.
>>
>>1020779
Is there no way to combine public transport with your commute?
Idk, if I was in your position looking at fucking scooters (lmao) I'd just get a ninja 250 and call it a day. Cheap as fuck ~500 used, good mpg, cheap insurance, can go fast and you're not on some cheap chinese scooter piece of shit.
Keep the bike for the 3 mile days and ride a motorcycle for the long days, fuck. Just stop overthinking this shit.
>>
>>1020766
Looks good mayn, you went for the goat link and Sunrac cassette (the more expensive one by the looks of it)? I'm the other guy you were talking to, finally got the last of my parts today so I can do my conversion.
>>
>>1020785

Yeah I got MX3 cassette, it's a bit changed now and weighs 10g more. Looks like they improved the design of 42 tooth cog and made it thicker which is nice. It took me like 2 hours to adjust the shifting with and without the clutch. It was a huge pain even with goatlink to make it run smooth. The initial 10km it made a horrid grinding noise but then went quite after shifting up and down like crazy and tuning the clutch a little. So far did 40km today and was able to climb one of the benchmark climbs called "the aspirin" so I guess the gear range is a success and the shifting is finally "smooth" still not nearly as good as 11-36 though.
>>
>>1020876
Interesting, I got the MS3 so I wonder if that's changed too. I weighed mine and it was actually something like 20g less than the claimed weight (assuming my cheap luggage scale is accurate).

I've done my conversion now but won't get to ride it until tomorrow, shifting seemed fine with the bike upside down (will likely have to adjust a little bit) and was no different with the clutch on or off. I wouldn't say it was any harder to tune than my old 9 speed setup, perhaps a little easier due to the better components

By any chance did you weigh your bike before and after? By my rough calculations mine should've been 200-300g lighter but actually seems to have gained about 100g, which seems impossible so I think my scales might be fucked (rear derailer and shifter are very close to the same weight, cassette should be around 100g heavier, minus around 200g for losing the front derailer and shifter, minus whatever the granny ring and bolts weighed).

>tuning the clutch a little
What do you mean by this? I think the clutch is adjustable for wear if you partly disassemble the derailer but you shouldn't have to touch it with a new one.
>>
>>1020766
welcome to the master race
>>
>>1020880

>What do you mean by this?

You can get the 3 screw cap off and there is a little nut that you can adjust for tension. XTR has this nut replaced with 2mm allen and made accesible from outside. on XT and lower it's hidden inside.

>By any chance did you weigh your bike before and after

Going from full Deore 3x10 to full XT 1x10 saved me 510 grams total. I also use I-Spec-B shifter instead of handlebar mount. Next step is to upgrade my fork to RS Reba (hopefully will catch one on sale for 300€) and save another 800 grams.

>I wouldn't say it was any harder to tune than my old 9 speed setup

I guess I just wanted perfection, after all it's fugen XT drivetrain. After some bumpy riding and throwing around the bike a bit, it wore in a little and shifts well now. Maybe it's the black paint that made the noise.
>>
>>1020898
> there is a little nut that you can adjust for tension
What made you think you needed to adjust it? I thought it was just for when the mechanism wears.

>Going from full Deore 3x10 to full XT 1x10 saved me 510 grams total.
Pretty good saving, does that include brakes too (just noticed they're different in those two photos)? My old derailers and shifters were also XT hence me expecting to save less weight. I've got weights for the new parts so I'll weigh the old stuff on my luggage scale tomorrow and compare the result to my weighing scales.

>I also use I-Spec-B shifter instead of handlebar mount.
Me too, but I have A mount brake levers (ordered B mount shifters for forward compatibility). Turns out CRC don't include the A mount hardware so I had to order that separately otherwise I would've had it all done on Friday.
>>
>>1020902

>What made you think you needed to adjust it?

So you my biggest cog won't grind like crazy. The retention is still good and the shifting is easier.

>I thought it was just for when the mechanism wears.

XTR mech has it as a "feature"

>does that include brakes too

Brakes are Deore M615 now before that I had Altus M355. The weight is about 20-30g difference so not much but a lot better modulation.
>>
>>1020905
>So you my biggest cog won't grind like crazy. The retention is still good and the shifting is easier.
Was it quiet once it had shifted or did it carry on whilst pedalling? Mine had an issue shifting into the biggest cog, it'd be fine going 1 shift at a time but doing I think 3 or 4 cogs at once it would jam and I had to adjust the B screw.

>XTR mech has it as a "feature"
Which model is this? The M986 is the only 10 speed I could find with a clutch and that has it covered like the XT, same goes for the 11 speed ones I could find.
>>
>>1020911

>Which model is this?

The XTR M9000 has it. It's a small cap under the switch.

>Was it quiet once it had shifted or did it carry on whilst pedalling?

Actually with the clutch the shifting is a reassuring "click" without grinding. However the biggest cog is crunching when pedaling if the clucth tension is high. I had to find that balance of retention, quite shifting and quite pedaling. By messing a little with the nut I got what I was looking for.
>>
>>1020911

>shifting 3 or 4 cogs at once it would jam

Also happened to me with default clutch tension now I can do up to 3 safely
>>
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I guess my new project just found me
>>
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>>1020898
>RS Reba
>>
>>1021026
>tennis ball
not gonna lie, that's a fucking ingenious way to hold a fender on
>>
>>1021097
Yeah, truly!
>>
How tight should the spokes be? I had a slight wobble on both wheels and did some truing today but then got carried away and tightened all the spokes to a poin where they barely move and make high piched noise when tapped. The wheels are true now but I'm not sure if the tension is too much or actually ok?
>>
>>1021162
depends on the type of spokes and the wheel, but generally you don't want them too tight or they might break

if its a roadbike and you're gonna be super careful about not going over bumps it might be fine

if not, you can back off on the tension without them becoming untrue, you just do it accross the wheel at the same time
>>
What IS cro-moly? Is it bad? Is it nice?
>>
>>1021188

It's C L A S S I C
>>
>>1021188
its steel alloyed with chromium and molybdenum
its stronger than 1020 steel so thin double butted tubes can be used to save weight

most old high end steel frames are made of it, a lot of them are very very strong and last forever, especially cromoly frames made by a company called tange

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/41xx_steel
>>
>>1020209
Made a post before i saw this thread, but will ask.

Im looking into getting a single speed for transport around the city and what not.
Is a single speed even my best choice?
Where could a buy a bike at around $400-$500 that isnt shit?
>>
>>1021178

After checking a few vids and reading a bunch of stuff, the tension of spokes seems like some space age precision bullshit that can only be meassured with special tools that cost a fortune. I guess I'm just going to let LBS fix my wheels first and then record the right sound of the spoke tension for future truing at home. I already fucked up pretty bad by not having a truing stand and using zip ties anyway. I'm not risking my ass with my doubtful "truing" when bombing rock gardens.
>>
>>1021206
>is single speed best choice
'single speed' implies single but not fixed. I would suggest that if you are going to go single you go ahead and learn to ride fixed gear, as it is actually really fun

basically, all it comes down to is: do you have any hills
>big hills
fuck fixed, get a 90s mtb with slicks
>little hills
if you have/want strong legs and you don't carry much with you, fixed is fine
>no hills
fixed is good
>>
>>1021206

Watch out for the 90s rigid memesters. I say with that money just convert an old fancy 10 speed with new decent wheels that has flip flop hub and you are set.
>>
>>1021208
>when bombing rock gardens
fuck, if you're going mountain biking and your spokes are too tight you can blow out the rim and shit

yeah, go ahead and as the shop to take a look at it. for a (shitty) referrence, the spokes on my bike are all close to A4 when i
>>
>>1021220
fuck off, 90s rigid mtbs are cool and you know it
>>
>>1021219
Not many hills whatsoever on campus but a few small ones in city.
I do enjoy the idea of being able to coast, however.

Im very new to cycling and i dont know what frames compare to others, and what "flip flop hubs" and the like are.

My friend pointed me towards this:

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/sst_steel.htm?gclid=Cj0KEQjwhbzABRDHw_i4q6fXoLIBEiQANZKGW-vqKHeibyt7ucLAUzXjS1hnb8Qed5J2tBsiNZyX88MaAvyC8P8HAQ

Is it any good, or should i ignore what the prick recommends?
>>
>>1021239
>not many hills, small hills
you'd be fine with a fixed gear, but just for convenience stopping/starting at lights it may be nice to have a derailer

>flip flop hub
many new bicycles meant to be run fixed gear and kits available for converting old bikes to fixed gear have rear hubs (the bit in the middle of the wheel) that have a fixed gear on one side, and a single speed on a freewheel on the other side
they do this so that you can switch the wheel around to choose between riding fixed and being able to coast

>new to cycling, don't know much about frames
you're looking for a commuter, and you're probably not looking to go super fast, so you probably want a frame made out of cro-moly, which is a high grade steel. it'll be heavy(-ish) but indestructable and cheap, and you wouldn't get much out of aluminum/carbon fibre if you're a new rider

you want something that's rigid, as lower end suspension is beyond shitty and can be dangerous at times. also, there's no need for suspension if you're not going on rough trails

as for handlebars, drops can be comfy if set up right, flat bars are really comfy, but don't look as classy and aren't aero

>is it any good
not really, but as a cheap beater it will work. its expensive for what it is, and personally i hate that sort of thing (and 90% of fixies), but some people love them
you can get much more bike for less if you buy used
another thing to note is that if you buy online, you'll have to build it yourself. it really isn't very hard and its a good way to learn, but if you just want something you can grab and go riding, then that might not be what you want to do

>being able to coast
just my personal opinion, but the main reason not to use a derailer is because some people really like the feel of riding fixed gear. i don't really see the appeal, but some people swear by it. there isn't really much reason to ride with only a single speed with a freewheel, cause having gears is really nice
>>
>>1021239
one other thing, if you do decide to use a fixed gear
lots of fixie riders will tell you that you don't need brakes, because you can controll your speed by resisting the pedals turning
this is true, but its still shitty advice

if you ride around without brakes in traffic you will eventually need to stop fast to avoid something and not be able to
>>
>>1021245
So, in the interest of finding out what i want, a flip flop hub would be useful so i can try both out and stick with whichever?

As far as speed goes, i would like to have some speed because i plan to use the bike for exercise after getting used to it. What would you recommend then.

Lastly, is there any place online i should look for a bike, used or otherwise? Or should i check around in my area?
>>
>>1021260
My friend has an earlier model of the one you linked and I think it's a fine bike for a noob, I myself still roll around on a Kilo TT I bought from BD in 2008, good bikes.
The Dawes comes with a flip-flop hub wheel so you can just spend an extra ~40ish dollars if you want a fixed cog +lockring to try out fixed but idk, it's not for everyone, spend that money on some bike lights 2bh.
Look at craigslist and see what people are trying to hike the price of because SS/fixed bikes have hipster tax and you'll find a ton of sloppy conversions.

If you want, you can just buy an old ten speed of CL ride it around until you're sure you want a singlespeed or fixed bike and then just order a 50 dollar wheelset from BD, they come with a 16t cog.

You can also link your local CL, drop your stats
>height, inseam
and we can go from there but realisticly it all boils down to

>90s RIGID MTN BIKE w/SLIX
which you can also convert to singlespeed because why the fuck not?

A nice bike inna city is just asking for it to be finger fucked by some bike thief, that's why the 90s rigid thing is tossed around often, beater bike for the city so no one thinks twice about stealing it and they move on to the nicer bikes first.
>>
How good/bad are bikes from wal-mart/sporting good stores nowadays? I just want a cheap bike to hoof around with.

I tried looking on Craigslist in my town but its all spare parts, "vintage" rustbuckets, and the occasional enthusiast piece.
>>
>>1021304
They'll last you a couple of casual rides, don't you dare turn a screw though, those fuckers are single-use only.

How about your LBS? or a co-op/bike kitchen? They usually have some used bikes for poorfags to start out cycling with so that should be fine for you.
>>
>>1021307
There's a few LBSes in town i haven't seen yet, since I have the day off I'll give it a look.

Thanks for the note though, I was hoping for a bike that I could maintain and keep for awhile. Any cheap brands in particular?
>>
>>1021271
So based on what you've all been telling me i did a little extra research and came across this one:

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fixie-record-dropbar-trackbikes.htm

Comes with front and rear brakes, for death prevention. Single speed. Cheap. 58cm, as im 6ft.

(Im not gonna worry about specializing anything or converting bikes, i just need a starter rn)

How does that one sound?
>>
>>1021359

Do NOT buy brand new fixed gear AKA "fixie" trash bikes unless you are ready to spend 1k and build a real track bike with real track components. Get used 10 speed and some velocity wheel set instead.
>>
>>1021361
Despite the name/description it's not fixed, it's just single speed.
>>
>>1021364

If it has flip flop hub it's a "fixie" aswell but that's not the point here. The point is: Anything marketed as single speed or fixed gear brand new and under $500 is complete and utter gas pipe trash. If you want something single/fixed brand new and worth while check out 8bar bikes or real track bike brands. Otherwise stick to converting it's a lot more economical and better.
>>
>>1021361
Well thats the thing, im looking for a single speed.
>>
>>1021367
Well where should i look for a bike worth converting? Is BD sufficient? And where would i find the parts/kits to go about converting a bike?
>>
>>1021368

You know what? If you don't want to get your hands dirty then just get that gas pipe trash and get it over with. You will eventually learn anyway.
>>
>>1021367
Read the description, it doesn't even come with a fixed cog.

Regardless of what they may call it or market it as it's just a single speed road bike. It's likely to be a fair bit better than an OTS converted to single speed, there's nothing about that bike that stands out as being bad.

>>1021371
>gas pipe
Bro, it's aluminium. How about you actually read through the specs before talking shit?
>>
>>1021359
Nah, that's gay, just get a Windsor Hour plus and buy a 20 dollar freewheel, ezpz.
Listen to the other guy if you want to spend more otherwise it's some cheap conversion on CL if you just want a starter bike.
>>
>>1021369

There are tons of tutorials online that show you step by step how to convert an old 10 speed and things you need. Good example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=013PBnnWu8c
>>
>>1021372

>Bro, it's aluminium

Oh god it's even worse then I though. Enjoy your sucide bike "Bro" kek
>>
>Oh god it's even worse then I though.
So, you didn't even read the stats or finish your thought. lmao,
enjoy your life "bro"
>>
>>1021374
Thanks for the help, will look into it!
>>
>>1021372

>Read the description, it doesn't even come with a fixed cog.

So? didn't you read what I said? It doens't matter if it's fixed or not it's a "single-speed" meaning only ONE speed and has a hipster appealing classic geometry with anchor weight deep-v rims. Basically it's hipster magnet trash. Heck it even says in the link "fixie" so clueless idiots buy it because it's "trendy"

also

>>1021376

>$300
>good bike
>thinking that aluminium is a good thing on bikes that cheap

Ok mane I'm done with you you are clearly brain dead and don't want to learn. Just go ahead buy it.
>>
>>1021379
>just go ahead and buy it
You're yelling at the wrong bro, bro.
>>
>>1021379
>you are clearly brain dead
Oh the irony.
Stay woke /n/
>>
>>1021381

>is defending a clown bike that is no better than GMC denali in quality
>thinks he is the smart one here

you are the reason BSO bikes sell and sell well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-4nCCBJqLA
>>
>>1021382
You really didn't understand what I was talking about in my first post here:
>>1021376
even I fucked up and didn't quote it was still on you because you didn't finish the word "thought" you missed the T so I was poking fun.
Also that you came in and starting spouting gas pipe when that's usually reserved for incredibly shit steel, it's not after that you get told it's alu, shit cheap alu is bad no shit, but it was only after that you come in and say "it's even worse than you thought" like lmao, you just saw the link and read "fixie" and immediately went on that shit.
I don't give a fuck what he rides, it's just your attitude is so shit and you really think you've above him. He's new, he'll learn but god damn, you're already set in your ways and you don't even see half the shit in front of you.

I'm gonna go ride my bike to work, chill out bro.
>>
>>1021384
>He's new, he'll learn but god damn, you're already set in your ways and you don't even see half the shit in front of you.

Because anything new under 300 with words such as "fixie" is no questions asked trash material. There is no ifs or buts here. Any blabber about it being aloominum or whatever bullshit description they feed you is automatically discarted.

You wan't good advice? Don't buy cheap bikes new EVER
>>
>>1021386

>300

shit I meant 500 there
>>
>>1021379
>So? didn't you read what I said?
I did, let me quote you
>If it has flip flop hub it's a "fixie" aswell
A flip flop hub does not make a fixie, having a fixed cog does. That bike does not therefore it is not a fixie.

>it's hipster magnet trash
Just because it's marketed towards hipsters does not mean it's trash. It may very well be a pile of shit but only an idiot would make that assumption based on that single criteria. Instead I did the logical thing and actually looked through the specifications (which you obviously didn't) and found nothing that stood out to signify it as a shitty bike.

>thinking that aluminium is a good thing on bikes that cheap
So you'd rather some shitty steel? And you have the nerve to complain about slightly heavier (but more durable) rims, shit they're not even that deep.
>>
Am I supposed to put a housing ferrule at the end of the part that goes inside a (non STI) aero vrake lever, or does it just go in naked?
>>
>>1021404
naked
>>
>>1020209
Hey guys I need Bike advice please.

I am looking into this bike https://www.amazon.com/Critical-Cycles-Diamond-1-Speed-Commuter/dp/B00B471Q2O/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477510027&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=critical+cucles+1+speed+diamond+hybrid


I'm lookin for a bike to move on medium to short travels for college mostly , gym, grocery store, some those bike hang outs that peoiple make on the city ( i am trying to use the car to the minimum), and whilst I think this might be enought for me as I also I am fond to the retro look on it, I wanna know if this is suitable, For starters I am doubting on the single speed, (are speed something I can add to it) I used before a 7 speed one and it worked perfectly on the city up hills and such, I am doubting if a 1 speed is enough if that is something I am going to be worrying about later whie I ride it and the size it size it has 55 cm for large, 50 for medium , what does that mean? I am 6 foot tall a little more maybe, however does this affect the size i might be looking for? the reason i am looking for this is as I can get this sent to my spic country, I was looking in a step tru but they seem to have the biggest size as in 44cm and I think that might be too short for me.


can you guys help me sort this out?
>>
Anyone ever tried using a Dia-compe style non-aero hood on a more modern v-brake lever?
>>
>>1021438
Yes, it never fit right
>>
>>1021439
Even with trimming down the opening for the lever hinge?
>>
>>1021438
>>1021440
There are some mismatched lever-hood combinations that will work tolerably well, but if you've got a modern V-brake aero lever, it's going to be too big for you to fit any non-aero pattern hood on it.
>>
>>1021503
Okay.
I am meaning to see if there is a way to cludge a flat bar v-brake lever with an old-style hood. As you say, to get it "good enough". The goal being a mtb conversion with alternate bars that provide a "hook" but aren't necessarily drop bars. Something similar to a soma sparrow bar. That way I wouldn't have to fuss with things too much with worrying about "muh aero levers". And hoods aren't necessary but it would be cool if I could. Then slap some friction shifters on the inside on the brakes and call it a day.

I'm bored.
>>
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>>1020766
why not use a 12 speed (top gear 50T) cassette?
>>
>>1021188
L I F E
>>
I've saved up some money to buy a mountain bike. I don't know much about bikes as I'm pretty new to this. I've come across these two bikes that are in my price range, could anyone recommend one to me?

https://www.rei.com/product/892246/cannondale-catalyst-1-275-bike-2016

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1186758_-1___
>>
>>1021530
buy something used
neither of those are worth it
avoid suntour suspension if you plan on riding anything more than fireroads
>>
>>1021530

Buy a used hardtail (no rear suspension/shock)
Look for rockshox/Fox fork
Look for SRAM X7 and up and Shimano SLX and up
Do more research
Hydro brakes are suggested but mechanical will do in a pinch
>>
>>1021309
>cheap brands
>maintain and keep awhile
no, and that's the main reason to buy used
the reason walmart can sell you a bike for $150 that looks real is because they skimped on every single component
a lot of that bso shit is non standard parts that are impossible to replace and work on

the best option if you want something cheap as fuck, reliable, and easy to service yourself, is a 90s rigid mtb or an old 10 speed from craigslist. you can pick up a decent 90s rigid for ~ $50 and a good OTS for ~ $100, and either one you can work on with basic tools and will work forever
>>
>>1021359
really, if you just want to start riding, there's no reason to get a fixie or a single speed
they're just toys for hipsters

save money and get a used 90s rigid mtb that'll be a 10x more capable bike
>>
After about 15-20 miles on my road bike, I start to get a very faint, general tingling down the inside of my legs and the inside of my feet.
I can ride all day on my mountain bike, even on roads, even with an aggressive posture, without this happening. I thought it was the road saddle at first, so swapped saddles. Even with the "road" saddle on the mtb, I still don't experience this, but I still experience it on my road bike, even with the alternate saddle— that's what blows my mind.
Both bikes are set up with very similar setback and the same seat tube angles. Both bikes have the hoods/bars level with the saddle. Naturally the reach is longer on the road bike (I do want to shorten it up a bit, though), but it still comparable to the reach on the mtb. The only MAJOR differences are that the road bike has a smaller q factor and 175mm cranks, as opposed to the 170s I have on the mtb, with a wider q factor. Same shoes. They're fine.

I have noticed that my position on the road bike is still somehow more aggressive, even on the hoods— I have a lower back angle than on the mtb, even the the mtb's cockpit is effectively larger.

Anyway, what's going on? Am I getting a kink in my hip or something? It's such a slight sensation. Moving around doesn't seem to help much, as it just comes back as soon as I get back in the saddle.

I know I can benefit from a bike fit, but I would like some preliminary thoughts first. Not to mention bike fits are retardedly expensive here, and any basic fit I've had from a shop has been so off the mark I have no confidence in actually paying for one.

Anyway, thoughts?
>>
>>1021547
Sounds like you're pinching a nerve inside your leg/hip area somehow. On the road bike, do your hips rock over the top of the saddle?

But yeah, it's definitely a fit issue - some possibilities would be if you're trying to fit on the road bike exactly the same way as you would on a mountain bike, that could be causing the problem (normally drop bars end up below the saddle). Or the 175 cranks are too long for you. Or you're sitting flat on the road bike (as opposed to rolling your hips forward).

Of course it's impossible to say anything for sure without actually seeing you on the bike - can you take a picture/video?
>>
>>1021526
Because it's ludicrously expensive.

>>1021540
>Hydro brakes are suggested but mechanical will do in a pinch
Most of them are absolutely terrible and those that are half decent cost as much as hydros. Half decent hydros are so cheap that there's absolutely no reason to use them unless you have drop bars or you're touring (where it may be easier to service).
>>
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is this loop for anything?
>>
>>1021584
It provides lateral stability to the rack, do you want a wobbly rack when it's loaded or what?
>>
>>1021589

just wanted to know if I use it for anything besides nothing. Might put a light on it or something idk
just wont use it to hang the bike from...right?
>>
>>1021597
I've always used mine to hang shit from or to tie my shit to it. I wouldn't use it to hang the bike though, so yeah you're right.
>>
>>1021597
Attach an impaling device
>>
>>1021602

I like that, or maybe a sign or small sail.
>>
Sorry. Bike virgin for 14 years here.

My only experience with bikes is ill-fitting mountain bikes I rode to school and back. Only riding on sidewalk. I hear that is illegal to do.

Now I want to go full road cyclist with a proper fitted clothing and fitted bike.

What is a good price for an entry road cycle? Should I look for a $1000 bike to last me or are $200 one good? OR should I get an intermediate bike for $500?

Also, should I get biking shoes and get myself fitted for a bike by a professional? 300 bucks sounds like a lot to me, but maybe it is worth it because I have a bit of a pinched nerve on my lower spine.

Sorry for this long winded post. I am totally lost about what to do.
>>
How do you attach a plastic crate to a rear rack so it's safe and sturdy? The one I have is like the one in the pic vut half as tall. I have a couple of short elastic cords with little hooks on the ends.
>>
Double layer of bar tape,got any experience with it?

Is it comfy af?or does it require hulk-like hands to use?
>>
>>1021615
Decent road bikes start about 800 these days, if you can't swing that, find a bike shop that offers used bikes. As for fit, most shops will do a basic fit when you buy a bike from them, and for most people that basic fit is enough to get you riding.

>>1021617
I would use hose clamps or bolts, depending on the rack/crate combination. In a pinch, for very light loads, you could tie the crate down with bungee cords, but that's not what I would consider a permanent solution.

>>1021620
Most of the time when I see double bar tape it's being used by someone who had a hand/wrist injury. A single layer of bartape is sufficient for most riders.
>>
>>1021615
you can't get a decent road bike for less than about $750 new, but you can get an OTS - an old 10 speed steel road bike - for $150-$200 in good shape on craigslist.

If you're just getting into this, I would recommend getting an OTS first, and trying it out for a few weeks before you decide to take the plunge on a new road bike, just to be sure you're ready to do it. then you can keep the OTS around as a commuter
>>
>>1021617
Drill holes in box, use flat piece of metal plus pic related in appropriate size. Make sure to cover a bigger area with the metal plate. You want to distribute the forces at the screw joint that would otherwise break the plastic. (You can also put a plate/sheet of metal underneath to "clamp" the plastic). Make sure to use nylon locknuts or Loctite to prevent the screws from coming loose.
Cut thread that sticks out.

Will get you a solid solution with minor bits sticking out.
>>
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>>1021633
forgot pic
>>
>>1021555
I dont have a way to take a picture right now. No hip rocking, so my saddle isn't too high. In fact, I tried that already, by lowering the saddle, and started getting knee pain indicative of too low a saddle.

I really am thinking that there's too much reach. I'm slowly coming to terms with being a T-rex despite my long torso. There not much lower I can go with the stem before it becomes comically short, so I have to find the compromise there. And I'm almost certain my hip angle is too closed in conjunction with the q-factor. I find it difficult to track my knees and still feel "natural". I've had 175 cranks before and never had a problem so I don't think that's as much an issue.

Maybe I should just shorten the stem, get some pedal extenders or something and go from there. I'd rather not have to replace the cranks if I can help it— it's a brand new bike, and the cranks are great. I'm not sure how easy a straight swap would be. The shop I bought it from is not exactly a "full service" type deal so I don't know how demanding I can get, you know?

There was some other stuff I was gonna say but I lost my train of thought.
>>
>>1021628
I have a passion for biking but felt my ancient mountain bike was holding me back.

I intend to use my road cycle as a commuter + racer for my fitness.
>>
>>1021645
If you're already into cycling, then yeah go for it
I think the entry level version of the specialized allez is right around $800, and that's a pretty good bike
>>
>>1021615
why the fuck do you want to get into it all of a sudden? People do this now and then and you know what happens? you see ads on craigslist- selling bike + shoes + helmet + all other gear, you know why? they spent thousands on a hobby they dont even like.
>>
>>1021648
I always had a passion for biking. Always rode bikes for 18 years of my childhood and now I want something more fun than driving everywhere or jogging. I am pretty fit but I am a big guy so I can't keep jogging my knees off. I also always looked up to cyclists. I have a feeling I will stick with it for the rest of my life. This isn't a dip in the pool for me. I am going all in.
>>
is this ok for my winter commutes? I get a decent amount of snow and can't use my road bike because there's no room for bigger tyres.

http://ithaca.craigslist.org/bik/5828116207.html
>>
>>1021654
All it needs are fenders and studded tires to be a perfect winter machine.
>>
>>1021658
wonderful thanks
>>
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my deraileur was acting up and upon closer inspection it seems like i somehow got rid of this little hook that positions the dreaileur on the dropout.

no Idea how i did that.

however, my xt deraileur dosen't even have that extra link. can I just get rid of that and have the b screw hit the small thing on the hanger like on the xt model ?
>>
just checked , I guess I can't.

how the fuck dose something liek this happen ?
I also feel like my rearbrake lost some power and needs to be bleed.

also , can I buy this thing as a spare, what's it called ?
>>
>>1020695
Yes
>>
>>1021673
Derailleur hanger
>>
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>>1021671
So the hanger, the part that of the frame (possibly separate from the actual dropout) that the derailer bolts onto, is round instead of having that small protrusion at the bottom? If so you'll need to buy a new hanger if it's separate, or get it welded if it's part of the dropout.

There are two ways I can see it happening. One would be for the derailer to be forced so hard that it rounds it off which would almost certainly also destroy the derailer, the second would be from sitting the frame on a concrete floor on the hanger (so with the wheel and derailer removed) multiple times over a long period (or just sliding it along the ground).
>>
Should I get a deluxe fitting for $360 or is the basic $50 good if I want to get a road bike?
>>
>>1021699
If you've never been on a road bike before, there's no point in paying for an expensive fitting, because your strength, flexibility, and preferences will almost certainly change once you've spent a couple months riding around.
>>
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>>1021679
>>1021677

it's actually not the hanger.
there's a part kind of inbetween the hanger and the the actual deraileur on my slx deraileur.
kind of like those goat links by woolftooth.
It seems to be called deraileur lowering bracket.

still not sure if this thing is necessary or not bought the deraileur used and it was on there.
I haven't questioned it until now but the isn't one on my xt one
>>
>>1021703
That's called a B pivot link or a direct mount link (on Shadow+ direct mount compatible derailers, it's slightly thicker and uses a different size bolt).

It is necessary, without it (if the hanger on your frame was the right thickness) the derailer would sit too close to the axle and too far out to the right. If you can't find a replacement and your derailer is Shadow+ you could buy the Goatlink instead.
>>
>>1021706

cool thanks.
I never really noticed those but a quick search had me realisie that they are everywhere !
>>
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Could anyone redpill me on BMX bikes?
I haven't had a BMX bike since I was a kid on some early 90's racing bike (which was stolen many years ago). These days I mostly ride road/CX/and rigid 90's mtbs, but recently I've really been craving something just for fucking around on.
I'm just trying to gauge how much I'd actually want to spend on one, I've figured I wouldn't want to go lower than about $300 on a BMX, but I'm still not as knowledgeable about BMX-specific brands.
Pic related is something I was looking at, but things that are specifically marketed towards being "entry-level" kind of set me back a bit.
I've also considered buying used.
>>
>>1021710
Mafia Bikes are great bang for buck. As far as they go...
If you want a knock-around bike, get the Kush over the MadMain. The MM is set up with a lower BB to keep the bike out of the way for more technical tricks, flips, whips, etc.

The Kush would be more appropriate for carving and jumping, with a higher BB and bars so that you're more connected to the bike and can get it more in control while actually riding.
>>
>>1021714
Thanks for the tip m8, I actually just watched Harry Main's video on the Kush, but his sponsorship bias is still something I considered.
Most of my riding would be street, anyway so it's probably a good idea.
>>
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Found this bike on craigslist, wondering if it's a good purchase.

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/bid/5840195035.html

Also does anyone know what a 15.5" frame translates into in terms like sizes? I'm 5'7" if that helps.
>>
>>1021716
15.5" is a small, not the worst for your height but you'd probably be better on something about a 17". It's slightly irrelevant anyway because he wants $200 too much for that Kona.
>>
What is a good introduction price for a new road cycle? Or is there a good place that does owned bikes?

Also, what is a good brand to shoot for? I think Trek ones look nice, but they are expensive as fuck. I'm fine with a decent mid or even budget brand as long as they are good.
>>
>>1021719
Alright thanks senpai, I guess the search continues
>>
>>1021716
>>1021719
15.5" will be the seat tube length, which is basically meaningless when it comes to mountain bike fit (it will have some relevance for stand over clearance or being able to slam the seat for clearance on rough terrain), this is because you could have two identical sized frames except one has a more sloped top tube thus making the seat tube shorter.

What does matter is the effective top tube length because that's going to determine how stretched out you're going to be. What will be a good length for your height will vary much more than on a road bike, it will depend on the style of bike and the intended use as well as some personal preference. Look at manufacturer's recommendations and use those as a rough guide. Ideally you'll want to test the bike out before purchasing.
>>
*ADvertisement
looking for someone in new jersey to teach me how to take back wheels off bicycles. i think my bikes have buttons/switches on the derailleurs. pay is $200 us dollars. i must understand your teaching enough to be able to do this myself after. im 24. i need the help because the last time i couldnt get the wheel back on i smashed the bike
>>
>>1021727
Just a suggestion, you're more likely to find someone who can show you how to install a wheel if you make a post on your local Craigslist. The population /n/-posters is small and scattered across the globe.

>>1021721
$800 is what you can expect to spend on a decent new road bike. As for what brand/where to buy, go to a local bike shop (read: not a generic sporting goods store or a walmart), some of them even sell used bikes.
>>
>>1021729
Does this place look reputable?

http://brickwell.com/
>>
>>1021731
Looks like a solid shop - but I wouldn't expect them to sell anything used.
>>
Is it legal to ride road bikes on a road?

As in, can you take full lanes if a place has no biking lanes or has dangerous potmarks or gutters? I could take artery roads just fine with a bike, right?
>>
>>1021740
check your local laws, but in most places in the US bikes are either allowed to use the full lane, or use the full lane but supposed to ride as far to the right as practical.
>>
>>1021740
Most places, yes. Your local laws may vary. Some places will restrict bicycles from high speed roads.

>>1021727
>>1021729

If I saw a craigslist ad for this in Camden or wherever else around there, I'd be completely convinced it was a setup for a robbery.

If you're serious, you need some sheldon brown in your life. Your knowledge is so low that I can't even figure out what you've got.

See also, youtube videos on how quick release levers work.
>>
>>1021742
>>1021745

What's the speed threshold?

The one major artery I need to ride on is 30mph sometimes with some long stretches where it's 40mph.

It's a 6 lane artery (sometimes the right hand side being filled with parked cars).

I can simply ride on the right hand lane then?
>>
>>1021747
Again, you should google your local laws, but yes, typically you can ride anywhere that isn't an interstate highway
>>
>>1021750
If I had to show you, it's Northern Boulevard in Long Island. It's a pretty busy artery. I'm kind of worried as a new rider.
>>
>>1021751
Short answer - yes, just stay as far to the right as practicable. Drivers may not be happy about it, but that's where you're supposed to ride.

Long answer, read this page:
http://www.safeny.ny.gov/bike-vt.htm
>>
>>1021753

That's good.

Any idea if road bikes increase performance versus mountain bikes? I have only ridden cheap mountain bikes all my life. Will climbing and sprinting be more doable now?
>>
>>1021755
Overall, rolling resistance will be reduced, which increases speed by a small amount everywhere.
>climbing
decrease weight across the whole system (ie you and your bike) will increase your average speed for a given power output uphill
>sprinting
the weight will probably make a small difference here too but the aero drop bars will be a bigger gain
>>
>>1021755
>>1021813
oh and climbing difficulty also depends on the gears if you don't want to be painfully grinding. Definitely look for something with a compact or sem-compact chainring.
>>
>>1020464
>learn to climb standing
This forces the chain and the gears.
>>
>>1020621
How can I get all these informations?
>>
>>1021835
What means this?
>>
>>1020655
Sheldon Cooper?
>>
>>1021097
It's not well-hold, check it touching the tire on the right extremity of the image.
>>
>>1021836
Where ever you're buying from should list most of it and the manufacturer's website should have the rest.
>>
>>1021840
Sheldon Brown, you silly Redditor.
>>
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Look what I found
>>
>>1021884
does it still hold air?
>>
Noob here. I'm looking at these mudguards:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/sks-bluemels-road-mudguard-set/rp-prod84326

I'm on the 26" with slicks meme so my 1.125" tires are below the minimum 1.5" for 26" wheels as specified in the link. But why is there a minimum width to begin with? Does it really matter?
>>
>>1021886
Yea, wish I had clear tires to show it off
>>
I am thinking about buying a Cannondale Synapse Claris 8.

$650 on sale. Is that a good price?

Or should I save up and aim for a $1000 bike? What's going to be the benefit of a 4 figure bike?
>>
>>1021917
More gears, but maybe not even a wider range of gears, just closer spacings. spend the money if you're rich, and the price difference means nothing to you, but if money's tight don't feel like you're missing out on what cycling is because you didn't get a $9000 race bike
>>
What is the difference between GXP and BB30 bottom brackets? I need to replace mine but I'm unsure which one to get. I have a SRAM Apex crankset that came with my specialized awol.
>>
>>1021917
Having a quick look through Tredz (UK site) there are cheaper bikes that are just as good (about £100 less) and bikes that are a fair bit better for a similar price (9 speed and/or Sora components, disc brakes). No idea what the situation is where you live, I don't know any American sites to check on.
>>
Are there any sort of dangers or problems I would run into by physically locking my front suspension with like...a clamp or a tie-down/ratchet kind of thing?

I'm trying to mess around with some geometry/pitch myself a bit more forward
>>
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>>1021931
Like so
>>
>>1021934
If you're just going to do it to test out a different fork length and aren't going to be riding it hard then it's okay. Possibly problems would be scratching the paint if you use hose clamps like that and if you did hard riding then I suppose the arch could snap.

I'm going to assume you have a coil fork so back off the preload all the way which will make the fork easier to compress and put less force on whatever you use to compress it. If you're going to compress the fork all the way then remove the spring(s) if you can be bothered, it's fairly simple and quick to do, although doing this will probably make the bike ride like shit.
>>
>>1021937
Mostly just got commuting, it's the first mtb I've had in a while and I'm not used to being set so far back on the bike, so I figured this might be a decent poor mans solution to my issue
>>
>>1021942
It shouldn't be a permanent solution. If you want a more forward position but maintain the geometry and suspension you could flip and slam the stem. Then if you don't mind spending a bit of money get a stem with more drop and perhaps more length, get some flat bars if your current ones have rise (if they do you could also flip them, might feel a bit weird though).

If you're not going to be riding on rough terrain at all and don't want to get a new bike then you could even switch to a rigid fork fairly cheaply, saving weight at the same time.
>>
>>1021953
>>1021953
I've already got the stem slammed, and I'm looking for a shorter one to bring everything closer together. The main issue with this fit is the seat tube angle, but I think a zero setback seatpost should help alleviate some of that. I just can't quite hit that KOPS feeling
>>
>>1021962
Have a look at the Race Face Chester, I think that was one of the cheapest zero setback posts I could find. Another alternative is to rotate your setback seatpost, if you don't mind it looking goofy.

Regarding the fork, roughly 20mm difference in length will change the head and seat tube angles by 1 degree. If you know the geometry of your bike this is a pretty good calculator to play around with: http://bikegeo.muha.cc/
>>
Just found out i cant run zwift on my toaster, how do i make stationary training fun now?
>>
>>1021966
Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out later

As for the fork, I managed to squeeze it down to about 45mm, Half of what it used to be. Should be an interesting ride home
>>
>>1021930
I saw the bike at

http://brickwell.com/m/
>>
>>1021986
Local bike shop? Looking through what they have for sale there's not really any better options unless you want to pay more, $50 more would get you the GT Grade with disc brakes (a bit less range on the cassette though so that'd also cost more to replace if you wanted).

I'd highly suggest checking on some sites for larger companies, someone else will have to make suggestions on that. Maybe Chain Reaction Cycles, although it's a UK based company they ship worldwide.
>>
>>1021987
Thanks. Do local shops assemble bikes for me or should I buy tools and do it myself?

And what do you mean by disc brakes? Are they safer? Sorry I am asking so much. Road bike virgin here. I would rather get a bike that can last me rather than a cheap intro bike
>>
Where do you guys get cool stickers for your bike?
>>
>>1021989
They charge for the assembly, almost as much as just buying the tools and spending a few minutes looking up RJ the Bike Guy on youtube is enough to see how to do anything on a bike will have you better off.
Don't know why you'd want disc brakes if you're a noob, caliper brakes are fine and are easier if you are starting out and are going to be working on your own bikes.
I'd say go check out the bike yourself and talk with your LBS and tell them that you want to start cycling and they'll help you. More often than not they'll throw in some freebies for you to get the sale and get you coming back for maintenance/parts. I see the bike you are talking about and it seems they only have it in 56/58cm so if you're short they might be too big for you.

Just go hit them up and see what they have
>>
>>1021993
So I should try to teach myself to maintain my own bike? What are some essential tools? I am guessing wrenches and tire pumps and oil, right?

And I am 6 feet tall so the bigger bikes should suit me.

Also where do I get bike clothing and accessories for cheap? Those Brit sites should be good? I am a tad large so I worry about them fitting me right.
>>
>>1021997
thrift store, learn to do things yourself and not let your LBS shill you
>>
>>1021997

Get tools as you need them. Don't fall for compelete toolbox meme that has shit tools if it's cheap or premium tools that costs a fortune. It took me nearly 5 years to get what one would consider a complete bike workshop and I learned a lot more by actually reasearching each tool I get.

The only things you need for a starter is a set of hex keys, a track pump and quality adjustable spanner. From there you can slowly get the rest as needed.
>>
>>1021997
Got a Harbor Freight near you? Get a set of hex keys, they have some cheapo multi-tools you can use on the go as well and a 6" adjustable wrench.
Find a bike kitchen/co-op near you and take a class on how to fix your shit and you might also find some dudes to get a ride going or ride in their group rides. Most of the time instead of buying some special tool I just go to my co-op and use theirs and donate some money or spare parts I have.
>>
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Just bought pic related for 350$, gonna take it for a ride in a desert nearby. Was it a good deal or what?
>>
Sorry if there's a guide or something lurking around here that I've missed, but what kind of bike should I be looking at as a complete beginner?

Are hybrid bikes a complete meme? What are the brands I should be looking at? I could probably spend about $1000 AUD or so if that helps.
>>
>>1022022
MSRP of 500. Basic bare bottom entry level mountain bike. Don't go crazy with trying to jump anything too huge and it should work out.

>>1022025
Sheldon Brown, park tools.

Hybrid bikes are indecisive short range commuters who's main advantage is being cheap to buy. If you know the kind of riding you want, you should probably get something more focused.

Oh, and get good suspension or none at all. Y
>>
Got a mid 90's road bike, it has a 39-52 fron 11-28 rear, I need much shorter gears for hills, going to a 32 rear won't improve it much, should I try tracking down a touring triple crankset that'll fit a threaded BB?
>>
Trying to shed a few kilos so got into riding. Been cramping up a bit on my 2hr+ rides. Have generally just been carrying water and spoke to a bloke at the bike shop and he reccomended these hydrations powders that are full of sugar. Are these the best things or would just straight electrolytes be better?
>>
>>1022060
listen to the bloke at the bike shop
>>
>>1022060
fuck the bloke at the shop, get some nuun tablets for your water or just throw in some salt and make your own drink. those shitcunts are just trying to sell you overpriced sugary shit.
shit leeroy, take some salty snacks if you want.
>>
>>1022062
>>1022065

Which one!?

Any reccomendation on sugar free electrolyte tabs?
>>
>>1022069
your body stores enough glycogen for ~90 minutes of moderate exercise. if you're going on long rides, you need to keep your carbs up or you will get fatigued, if you don't you risk going hypoglycemic.
>>
Who else #brakeswhilepedaling?
>>
I want to start commuting to and from work but I'm inexperienced at dealing with traffic. I get off at 11 PM so it'll be dark out. Would it be wise to take a longer route to stick to bike lanes? It'll add about 6 km to my trip. My other option is a rural road that's fairly quiet, but has the odd car doing 70 kph zipping down it. I'm not sure if I'm being paranoid but I'm worried about getting clipped by someone inattentive and dying in some farmers ditch in the middle of the night.
>>
>>1022079
Night is probably safer for cycling in general, as long as you're visible. People usually only tend to drive into things they can't see. Get two redundant blinky lights for the back of your bike and wear something with reflective strips.
There's far less traffic so cagers don't have to try to squeeze past you with cars coming the other way, and they feel less confident judging your speed, distance and size based on the lights alone so they tend to give you more room.
>>
>>1022080
That's a relief. Thank you.
>>
>>1022080
>blinky lights
kys
>>
>>1022065
>>1022060

Can vouch for the Nuun tablets, I cramped up bad on my first gran fondo because I switched to straight water once my bottles got emptied the first time. Next time, no issues with a tube of those in my pocket for the refill stops.

Just a warning, the taste is pretty off-putting just trying them out in the kitchen, but they're pretty refreshing when you're actually working out.
>>
I have a lot of questions about road rules.

I hear I need to have a bell/horn for my bike on roads? New York rules. So is it possible to fit one on a road bike? Are mirrors a good idea for busy roads?

As for riding on streets, I can occupy a lane if the right hand lane is filled with parked cars, right? Do I have a legal right to take up a lane? I don't want to ride in the gutter. I crashed once doing it.
>>
>>1022097
>>
>As for riding on streets, I can occupy a lane if the right hand lane is filled with parked cars, right? Do I have a legal right to take up a lane?

Of course you do. Just be wary of getting doored.

As for the bell, I don't know. Look up your local laws. I know here in australia it is required and is actually enforced (because apparently the cops don't have enough real work). You can easily fit a bell on the handlebars between the stem and bar tape.

/n/ seems to have a hateboner for mirrors, you don't need NEED them, but really they can't hurt, can they? You can get small mirrors that go in the bar end for drop bars, dunno how effective they are.
>>
>>1022097
>>1022099
To add to the mirror question - they're fine, but even if you get one, you should still make a habit of turning your head to look before making turns or changing lanes.

Bells can go on any bike, there are many options that come with clamps that go around your handlebars, or mounts that become part of your headset. That said, in practice, laws in the US that mandate bells and reflectors are never enforced, though NYC and Chicago did have campaigns to encourage their use a few years back.
>>
>>1022079
Other dude is right, also you'll be able to hear a truck approaching on those types of roads and then you can decide to pull over a bit or completely stop just to make sure they pass you and not just leave your mangled body behind. I suggest not listening to music and getting some reflective safety triangles for your back and your bike so maybe they'll think your amish or something and give you more room than usually lol
>>
>>1022032
fantastic, thanks a lot mate
>>
sorta stupid question, is it ok to use the qr skewer from my trainer for everyday use, i dont want to go through the hassle of taking it on and off all the time.
>>
>>1022138
What sort of trainer is this that comes with a skewer? All I can think of is those ones that take the place of the rear wheel, but I don't see why you'd have to remove the skewer (it would stay in the trainer just like you're swapping to another wheel).
>>
>>1022139
you have never had a bicycle trainer have you?
>>
>>1022140
No, hence me asking what sort of trainer it is. I'm aware of rollers (where you don't need to remove the wheel unless you're going to switch to a training tyre) and the ones I mentioned.

Anyway, I can't imagine a reason why you couldn't use the skewer that comes with the trainer if it's the same length and diameter as a regular one. It's still going to be strong enough as it has to apply the same clamping force.
>>
>>1022138
>is it ok to use the qr skewer from my trainer for everyday use
Yes, my wife can't really into QR so we just leave her trainer skewer in for going out and it's fine. It's just more convenient 2bh, read your warranty though just in case they have shady jew shit going on when using skewers that are supposed to be "indoor use only" outside and if you don't give a fuck about that stuff just lock that fucker in and ride.
>>
>>1022054
triple conversions are a pita, you might be better with a compact double
>>
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>>1022144
why would you answer a question you have no idea what you are talking about.
>>
>>1022145
dont have warranty on it, got a trainer for 20$ at a liquidation sale. the lady had maybe 100 of these from previous charity events they discontinued.
>>
>>1022152
I wasn't answering the question, I was asking for more information so that I could attempt to do so.

Looks like it's just a regular skewer with a hidden/covered cam mechanism.
>>
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>>1022156
does this regular skewer look like it will fit into the female part of the trainer? does it
>>
>>1022157
No, because that's an exposed cam skewer. If you didn't know the type that comes with that trainer is an older style that used to be really popular.
>>
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>>1022108
>pull over a bit
There's not really a shoulder to pull onto, it's just ditch. That said it doesn't seem to deter other cyclists.
>>
>>1021997
I'm 6ft tall, and I'd err towards medium frames over lg/x-lg. If the site says "use this frame if your 6ft" pick the next smaller frame. I've been burnt twice by going by what these manufacturer sizing charts say and ending up with something too big.
>>
What is a Grade Alloy?

http://www.mensjournal.com/gear/outdoor/a-1-000-road-bike-built-for-anything-20150707

I think I might get this instead of Claris 8. Good idea?
>>
>>1022212
That's the model name, I assume the also make a Grade Carbon which would of course be made of carbon fibre instead of aluminium.

The major difference between the Grade and the other bike you were looking at is the disc brakes. If that's worth the extra $50 or so to you (assuming you're still going to buy from Brickwell) then go for it. If you don't mind buying from CRC then there are much better options.
>>
>>1022212
Which model would you get though? The base Claris model or the Sora one they tested?
Grade is the model name, Alloy just means it's the Aluminium version since they also offer a carbon model.
>>
>>1022218

Maybe this one.

http://brickwell.com/m/product/gt-grade-alloy-claris-237482-1.htm

>>1022217

I'm really open to all suggestions. Which particular ones do you have in mind?
>>
>>1022220
If you happen to be over like 6'3" there's a cracking deal on the Fuji Sportif 1.5 with 1 bike left in stock. The Vitus VR or VRL are very good deals at about $450 with 9 speed Sora. I'm not sure what the difference is but the VRL is 100g lighter and has a 56cm frame size in stock, if you don't need a 56cm then I suppose the choice would come down to colour.

If you don't mind a flat bar bike then that opens your options up even more.
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>>1022226
I'm 6 feet even. So would it be a good idea to get something bigger than 6 ft or slightly lower than 6 for my bike fit?

I keep hearing about the Sora. What is it and why should I look out for it? I think $450 sounds amazing for my budget though (I could go up to $1500 if I absolutely must, though I want to get a bike kit to wear and some accessories too). I'll look into it.
>>
>>1022232
It's usually fine to go a size smaller than what's reccomended, a lot of people actually prefer to do so as it means a lighter and stiffer frame and some like the handling of a shorter frame.

>I keep hearing about the Sora. What is it and why should I look out for it?
It's the tier of the components, just like Claris. I'm not as knowledgeable about road bike components but I think it goes something like this, worst to best; Tourney, Claris, Sora, 105, Ultegra, Dura Ace.

Better components are usually going to be lighter, stiffer (in terms of cranks), more efficient (better bearings), shift smoother, and last longer.
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>>1022234

I think VRL might be good for my budget and height. It has the perfect one there

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/vitus-bikes-razor-vrl-road-bike-2016/rp-prod135382

I wonder if Vitus is a good brand? I'm seeing that they're based in France so that sounds promising. What should I look for regarding any extras? I think I could use a hex/allen wrench from all the nobs it looks like and do any stores sell cyclist kits for a good price or are they all $100+ish for each piece? That sounds a little bit of an investment in itself.
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>>1022239
For modern bikes a set of allen keys and a couple screwdrivers will allow you to undo and tighten almost everything, you won't need spanners until you start removing bottom brackets and headset (in which case you'd also need specialised tools). Maybe pick up some cone wrenches for maintaining the wheels (if they don't use sealed bearings) and a pedal wrench.

Other little things I can think of are plastic tyre levers, some decent pumps (track pump for at home, a portable one to take out riding), self adhesive patches or spare tubes to take with you, a bottle and cage, pedals if you don't want to use the crappy plastic ones that come with most bikes.
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File: full32645.jpg (137KB, 425x516px) Image search: [Google]
full32645.jpg
137KB, 425x516px
I've got a two parter regarding bike storage:

1. Is there any problem with hanging a bike like pic related? Will it damage the wheel after ling periods of time?

2. Say I'm considering long term storage, should I take my bikes inside or leave them in the garage?
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New

>>1022249
>>1022249
>>1022249
>>
Hey
I want to get back into biking but im not sure what kind of bike to look for (havent used a bike anymore in years) Mostly going to use it for going to work and city stuff, but there are no trains or busses for me to commute to work with.
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