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/bqg/ - Bike Question General

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Thread replies: 316
Thread images: 39

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Old one >>1014100

Bikes are good for your health, for your city traffic, to the global climate, to the poors, for your mind stability. They are amazing.

If you have a question, get in here.
>>
What are bicycles? Genuinely. In my country we call cyclist turners because they turn the pedal over and over to make them move in more.

Anyway I have a question...if I have stem that is negative what does it mean. I biught a bicycle from craigslist and it says negative stem. Hopefully it means fast, I just want be like lance armstreng when he goes quickly on the turner.
>>
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>anon is a mess
Is there a way to put the chain back to place without greasing the hand like this?
>>
>>1017655
>for your city traffic
bike infrastructure costs a lot of money, and barely reduces traffic. Whenever a city sees a rise in bikes it also sees a decrease in pedestrians. Extremely few people will stop driving their car to start riding a bike, however it's a proven fact that improving public transit, preferrably coupled to reduced road space, DOES help reduce traffic, and people WILL stop driving cars to use public transit. If you wear a suit and tie and it's 90 degrees outside you're not going to move around in a physically demanding manner, but you can perfectly well used ac'd public transit and walking to/from stops or stations.

>bikefags BTFO for the gorillionth time
>>
>>1017671

Pro cycling to: If your chain falls off on a ride pick up a piece of street garbage to grab the chain with.
>>
>>1017673
>bike infrastructure costs a lot of money
Car infrastructure is gratis?

>and barely reduces traffic
I have not said they reduce traffic, I said they are good for traffic. This means they can reduce the traffic jams. A lot of cars with 5 seats and 1 person occupies more space than individual bikes with individual persons. Plus, there's the engines, trunks, tanks, etc.
>>
>>1017673

Public transit works in high IQ societies in Asia and Europe

If you REALLY think an American business person is going to ride a stinky nightmare bus littered in for scraps and the obese screaming bluetooth wearing proletariat, you are mistaken
>>
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Is this a good tire brand?
>levorin
>>
When I try to post here, Google Captcha requires me to click on cars, instead of bikes. I think it's a conspiracy.
>>
>>1017682
tire looks heavy
>>
>>1017686
Heavy? You mean, thick?
>>
>>1017682

Even the best brands sell garbage tires. The model matters more.

Unless we're talking about Schwalbe Professional Bike Tires in which case you cannot go wrong!!!
>>
>>1017671
Pack some nitrile gloves with your fix-it kit.

>>1017667
>if I have stem that is negative what does it mean.

it means it's upside down for extra slammed aero ness.

>>1017682
How much they weigh? Is the fabric high TPI? Do you like them?
>>
>>1017678

>living in a third-world shithole where garbage is within arms reach at all times
shiggy diggy
>>
>>1017696
>The model matters more.
I will take a photo of the model tomorrow.

>Schwalbe Professional Bike Tires
I never saw one.
>>
>>1017678
By street garbage, do you mean newspaper?
>>
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>>1017682
OK, I don't have now the model of the tire, but I have this other tire on my bike. Is it's brand AND model good?
>Pirelli
>Scorpion MB1
Was the last one on the store, that's why I'm not using both tires from the same brand AND model.
>>
>>1017723

Well I live in Philadelphia so it's mostly used condoms and weird tiny zip lock bags
>>
>>1017772
I prefer not resorting to used condoms.
>>
I currently have a trek 7.3. The chain is rusty and it hasn't seen maintenance in 2 years. It's in a general state of disrepair. Should I just buy a new bike or replace the chain for 100$? If I should buy a new bike, which bike is best for urban communting?
>>
Buds I found a dime sized dent in my top tube, on the side, mid way. I only have 800km on this bike, I have no idea how it got there but it's very recent. Feels bad mangs

If I know it wasn't caused by improper use how likely is it that I can put it through as defective workmanship?

>aluminium
>>
>>1017789

Probably not. A lot of old cannondales have top tubey dents and they just don't matter if they are small

You can pop them out with certain methods but the paint will get scratched

Bikes should get beat up. Take it as a lesson in non-material-attachment. The bike is just a tool not a fetish object like the hipsters want us to believe
>>
>>1017727

I cannot say if this tire is good. Everything about it is in Portuguese
>>
I got a Mountain bike and the rear shock sways with my downstroke and i feel like i'm losing power, what should i do to adjust this?
>>
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So I finally decided to try the 1x meme properly. I just ordered the race face NW 30 tooth and clutched derailleur. I'm coming from 2x10 setup (32/24 and 11-36). I have some steep as shit climbs here and slowly am trying to avoid using the granny but it's still pretty hard.

Question is will I adapt quicker if I finally commit to the 1x meme or will I suffer? Anyone here coming from granny and made it in one piece?
>>
>>1017832
there's literally nothing wrong with using the granny gear.
set your own parameters for personal success.
>>
>>1017836
Spoken like a true noodleleg
>>
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>>1017795
Could you then please inform me which informations are needed to confirm the quality of the tire?
>>
>>1017682
>levorin
Their website doesn't have a proper English translation,how could you possibly go wrong!

But their market share must be very low and thus experiences on this particular tire will be.
You either have the "EXCESS EX" or "MAGMA" model.

tbqhfam just ride it and if it sucks shit just skid untill it assplodes
>>
>>1017832
Get one of those Sunrace 11-42 cassettes (or you could also get an expander cog) and you'll have close to the same low gear.

That's what I'm planning to do, I currently have 9 speed with 32/24 and 11-32 so it'll give me almost exactly the same range. I can't imagine wanting to go any lower than that, I can still climb some pretty steep stuff just fine on a full susser that likely weighs more than your bike (just over 18kg).
>>
How long are bike shorts meant to last
>>
>>1017878

Damn upgrading to 1x sure has hidden costs (so much for just spending 10€ on shorter chainring bolts and calling it a day) Well considering a XT cassette + 42 generic cog costs 80€ and weight the same as MX3 but for only 54€ it seems like sunrace is a clear winner. Still all this meme costed me 180€ so far and required me to replace the whole drive train just to make it worth it.
>>
>>1017678
>>1017723
>>1017772
A leaf or some other suitable piece of shrubbery works pretty well too, if you happen to ride somewhere a bit more rural.
>>
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I have 700x23 slick tires on my road bike.

Do 700x25 winter tires really improve the grip on wet surface?

Those patterns look to lame to me.
>>
>>1017892
Well in your case you didn't have to replace the derailer, you chose to for the clutch which you still could've done with 2x (or if you had a clutched derailer to begin with). A 1x conversion doesn't need to cost more than the cost of some shorter bolts, but if you pay more you get more (range and/or chain retention).

For me it's not so bad because I want to upgrade to 10 speed regardless (for better shifters and a clutched derailer), going 1x works out cheaper as I have one less shifter, derailer and chainring to buy.

Also, take a look at the RAD cage from OneUp. It's a fairly cheap addition and supposedly makes shifting a lot better.
>>
Is losing weight by riding a bike viable?
>>
>>1017671
>>1017711
A stick works fine too

>>1017787
Definitely replace the chain as long as you like that 7.3, much cheaper than replacing the entire bike.

>>1017789
take a picture, dents can be a big problem or nothing at all depending on shape and location

>>1017822
If the entire rear triangle is flexing laterally, it means one of the bolts has come loose - tighten them all (using a torque wrench to match specifications if possible).

If you mean you're getting too much pedal bob, then the issue is likely that you don't have enough pressure in the shock.

>>1017888
At least one full season of heavy use, but many last longer than that

>>1017894
going from 23 to 25 isn't going to make a huge difference, but it will give you a little more grip because the tire profile will be more round. Also, the tread pattern is pretty much meaningless.

>>1017901
yes
>>
>>1017902
yeah exactly pedal bob, so i should just put the shock tighter? otherwise it works fine with no flaws
>>
>>1017901

In my experience, I lose weight faster via running & swimming.
>>
>>1017897

I have a generic deore derailleur with not clutch so I had no choice but to upgrade here. I ride bumpy. I will use the deore shifter I have but I might get XT shifter soon. Basically it's going to get expensive as fuck to meme the meme the right way.

OneUp stuff is overpriced as shit btw.
>>
>>1017904
yeah i know that those are for a fact more effective but they re also not that fun, i'd much rather go in a long ride on my bike taking in scenery and discovering new places than run a lap around my town and come back home after 10km or less.
I just wanna lose this belly that's been forming from poor eating habits and get about 10 to 12 kg slimer
>>
>>1017905
>OneUp stuff is overpriced as shit btw.
I don't think a replacement cage for under £30 is too bad, especially considering what it does. I also don't know of any other alternatives, and even if they do exist it's not going to be a huge amount of money saved.

>>1017903
Increasing the pressure will reduce bob, however it's also going to have the downside of making the shock less effective over rough terrain. You may end up pumping it up so much that it'd be more effective to just ride a hardtail.

What shock do you have? It may have compression damping adjustments or even a pedalling specific mode. If not then you may want to look at getting an upgrade.
>>
>>1017909

That thing is only compatible with medium cage I have long cage XT on the way already so I won't be able to use it. Also I think the long cage will do just fine with 42 tooth.
>>
>>1017787
a chain does not cost $100
>>
>>1017909
its a very simple coil and spring shock, i tightened it a bit and the problem seems to be gone, ill go on my usual place tomorrow and see if its still fine.
This is an old bike so it might have gotten a bit loose, ill look into a replacement
>>
>>1017912
Long cage just means it can take up more chain slack, which is why they're used for 2x setups. The RAD cage moves the upper pulley rearwards so it has more clearance for the largest cog.

You derailer will probably work, might take some fiddling with the B screw, it's just a converted derailer would work better.

>>1017915
If you're even remotely serious about riding and the bike isn't complete shit definitely look into an upgrade, a second hand air shock isn't too expensive (or even just a coil shock with a few more adjustments).
>>
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so,
I want to get into bikepacking next summer and am currently trying to ride longer distances.
today I've been riding ~ 60km of mixed terrain and now my knees hurt.

the right knee startet to hurt about 5 km before the finishline. a rather sharp pain on the left side of the knee.

several hours after the ride both knees hurt when i move them. not terrible but noticable.

is this normal or did I overdo it ?
>>
>>1017919
you're using too high a gear ratio
>>
>>1017918
This is mostly a commuting bike, when i want to ride i usually pick up my roadie but tbqh i'd like to have to the option of going into these neat trails i find, any suggestions for a decent not too expensive shock i could get
>>
>>1017919
>>1017921
Is right, i had the same problem and then lowered a bit and it feels like heaven
>>
>>1017907
I lost a lot of weight just riding a bike but progress can be slow and frustrating sometimes
>>
>>1017922
It's going to come down to what you can find on Ebay, keep an eye for Rockshox and Fox stuff (I think the cheapest models are RP and Float respectively). I don't think the other brands like Marzocchi and Manitou tend to do cheaper air shocks. Also DNM has some cheap stuff (even a lot of new stuff on Ebay) and I think they're okay although I have no personal experience with them.
>>
>>1017918

goatlink seems cheaper and simpler alternative.
>>
>>1017667
Its filled with helium and adds negative
weight to your bike its what made lance win all those races
>>
>>1017930
Cheers, I'll give that a go instead. I'm not that bothered about the £10 or so saved but it's certainly simpler to install.
>>
>>1016267
I bought a spoke wrench which is making it much easier to adjust than the shitty Spanish made crescent wrench I was using.

I have it for the most part shifted over to centre.
Before I fine tune the true is there any test I should do to to make sure I have it mostly centred? Am I just eyeballing it? I don't have the brakes pads installed yet because I took apart the rear centre pull brake to clean before putting it back on.
I've tried measuring from the rim to the seat stays. It went from about 3cm on the far side to around 2.4cm
>>
Continental Gatorskin vs Continental 4 seasons?

which one is better for winter riding?

ps. I'll try to avoid riding while raining.
>>
I'm an European which will stay in US for a while

From which website do you order your cycle equipments?
>>
>>1017921
>>1017923

really I actually was trying to go for a high cadence.
I felt fine during the ride for most of the time.

the pain (except for the sting in the right leg) started several hours after the ride
>>
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Got myself this bike for the cheap
>>1017945
>>1017945
How would you made it looks worth it?
Ive though of new hand grips, removing some stinkers, maybe adding a pair of handles...
>>
>>1017875
I should actually read my posts before I post them...
>>
Bike noob here, I recently bought a rigid 90s MTB for commuting I'd like to switch out the tires for slicker and thinner ones. Here is what my current tires say:
>47-559 (26x1.75) 3.0-5.0 bar 45-70 psi
Which numbers are important here? What slicks 2 get?
>>
>>1017907
You want a 26" tyre. Your current one is 1.75 inches wide, you can go wider or narrower it's up to you but wider tyres ride nicer. the bar and psi numbers are recommended pressure ranges to inflate to.
>>
>>1017998
Assuming you meant to quote me above you. So as long as the tire I buy is 26", I should be good? If I get 1 1/8 GatorSkin tires, will I have to get new tubes too? Since those tires are a bit thinner.

Thanks
>>
Lads, how do your keep a cadence while pedaling? I understand how to use my breathing to control my cadence while running, but I'm not really sure how to do it on a bike since I don't know how many revolutions per breath is a good number.

Also, what is "mashing" the pedals? Is it just pedaling too hard when you're in a gear that's too high?
>>
>>1017994

For thinner/lighter/racier tires:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/schwalbe-durano-folding-road-tyre-raceguard/rp-prod128952
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/continental-grand-prix-26-bike-tyre/rp-prod39338

For long-lasting/puncture-proof/heavy as all fuck:
http://www.wiggle.com/schwalbe-marathon-plus-rigid-tire/
>>
>>1018002
Nice, thanks. I want to try ordering the Continental Grand Prix ones, but do I want folding bead or wire bead? Do I have to check my wheels somehow?
>>
>>1018001

Spinning is when cadence >90
Mashing is when cadence >60
Anything in between is "normal" cadence I suppose.

You can either buy a cadence sensor, or just count out your pedal rotations per 10 seconds, then mulitply that number times six to get your cadence.
>>
>>1017832
I was forced to run 1x on my MTB because the frame is meme and does not allow fd.

I abhor it.
>>
>>1018005

Actually, yes. If your wheels are more modern, the skinny tires might not fit properly. You want to make sure that your wheel rim is not too wide for the 1.1" tires. Anything with an interior rim width at or under 19c should be fine, although 19c might be pushing it. To be 100% safe 17c rim is your best bet. The general rule of thumb for wheel/tire width is that the exterior width of your rim should be at or slightly under your tire width. a rim with 19c interior width will be around 24-25mm exterior. Those Contis are 26mm width.
>>
>>1018006

Mashing is when cadence <60

Made a mistake, im sorry cycling jesus
>>
>>1018008
I see.
Here's what the sticker on the wheels say:
>ELBRUS
>18510 ft
>ETRTO 17.5x559
>6000 SERIES ALLOY-T6
Any relevant info in here? If I want to measure my wheels' interior width, I'd need to remove the tires and tubes, I guess?
>>
>>1018013

>17.5x559

Internal width confirmed at 17.5c, the conti grand prix tires will fit just fine.
>>
>>1018013

Your other question was wire vs kevlar bead. It's just weight. Wire beads aren't really any more durable than kevlar, just heavier and cheaper to produce.

Also those Grand Prix tires are built for racing, they have very little puncture protection. Consider getting kevlar tire liners to compensate, although if you wont be riding through much shattered glass/road crud it might not be necessary.
>>
>>1018014
Sweet, thanks for all the help.

>>1018017
Was just going to ask about that.

So folding bead is the same as kevlar bead? (Page says folding/wire bead.) Folding bead does seem more expensive.
>>
>>1017854
>Could you then please inform me which informations are needed to confirm the quality of the tire?

Do you have google in hue hue land?

TPI (threads per inch) is the most important factor
>>
>>1017892

You should have bought the chainring from aliexpress for $20

That + sunrace is a good deal. You can put chainring bolt spacers on instead of ss chainring bolts to save a few $
>>
So I recorded an activity on a Garmin, it says the length and time in the activity list, but when I open it up, there's no data. Any ideas? I tried timestamp fixer but nothing. I think it must be really messed up because the file is only 1kb.
>>
>>1018006
Normal isn't 60 to 90. Normal is 80 to 95 and depends on the person.

>>1018001
Breathing should be completely unrelated to cadence.
You want to keep a decent cadence, I would suggest 80 to 90 revolutions per minute. Cadence sensors are really good initially to get used to what 80 or 90 rpm feels like. Personally I'm on the higher end of this but it's all personal and what feels right.
Changing gears while keeping the same cadence adjusts the effort. If you're tiring or going uphill, change down gear and keep the same cadence. Repeat as necessary.
Do the opposite if you're feeling fresh or cycling downhill and your cadence has got too high.
>>
>>1017999
>>1018013
Tubes often have a range of tyre widths they will work with. It may say on it, but if it doesn't I would change as it is likely to be for 1.5 inches plus.
However, I wouldn't go as narrow as 1 1/8.
I've had great experience with Schwalbe City Jets. Personally I would go for these at 1.5 inches wide.
It's a bit narrower, smooth tread and great puncture resistance. Actually don't think I have ever had a puncture with them.
>>
>>1018019

Yep kelvar beads are a type of folding bead.
>>
Upgrade order help.

I've got an OK bike with sorta shitty but ok wheels and a frame that's solid but not exactly exciting. Everything else is pretty much as high end as I'm willing to go. Full 105 with trp spyres (mechanical disc).

Considering a new frame and wheels will probably cost around the same. I'm trying to work out which one i should go for.

Wheels would probably have the greatest effect on speed, as I currently have ALEX ADT470's, so could look for some nice aero wheels.

Or I could go for a better, more exciting frame, and with one a little more appropriate in size. Current frame is crappy alu, endurance geometry and maybe a size too big. Doesn't cause issues, but it's a little hard to get nice and aero.

GOing to be looking at frames with clearance for some big tyres and of course disc mounts.
>>
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I just got this for $5 did i do good? I have the front brake it's just not on.
>>
>>1018116
if it rides and fits you ithout you putting much work into it then I would say you got the deal of the year
>>
>>1018131
Sweet I love the way the bike rides and how it looks. Only wish I had got it a little earlier in the year.
>>
>>1018116
If anyone could also tell me the about what year it would be, that'd be cool.
>>
>>1017893
I'm biking in a city with asphalt on the streets.
>>
>>1018108
can i ask what bike it is?
>>
>>1017875
>Their website doesn't have a proper English translation,how could you possibly go wrong!

Why would they need a complete translation for English, if they don't sell tires to countries that speak English?

I probably have "EXCESS EX". I have not checked my bike today because I was busy with another activities on my home.

This page has data about this specific model, but I need to check also the dimensions, so I can read the correct line.
http://www.levorin.com.br/produtos.php?id=1&idsub=1&idprod=20

I don't want that my tire explodes. And I want to prevent the buying of bad tires on the future, also.
>>
>>1018024
>Do you have google in hue hue land?
Google isn't blocked in my country. Even if it was, it's easy to avoid blockages.

I noticed that I need to check the dimensions of my tire, so I can know the exact TPI of my model.
>>
>>1018159
https://www.reidcycles.com.au/vantage-endurance-2-0-disc.html
>>
>>1017901
3 sets of fork putdowns will be better.
>>
>>1018174
Well here's my take, man. Getting some wheels is going to probably be a little easier. They need to be thru-axle, disc wheels, which there's no shortage of. If you get a frame, then it needs to be compatible with your existing wheels as well as other components like seatpost diameter and bottom bracket interface. Not to mention it's going to have a different fit (which may be a good thing, judging from your OP) and it's gotta be a bike that you think is cool looking.
>>
I need a brake lever that I can use to shift gears. I have an older cx bike with canti brakes. So is there a drop bar brake lever that I can use with canti brakes and also to shift 10 speed gears. My bike has some old shimano rear derailleur but I also have a dyna sys 10 speed rear derailleur lying around that I can use if needed.

Currently I'm using a 10 speedbar end shifter with some old 8 speed shimano rear derailleur. It works well but the bar end shifter isn't that practical.
>>
would this be a good frame to get ?
I'm looking to build a mountain from scratch since my old frame just broke and the parts are really old desu like 15 year or more old.
I'm going for 27'5 wheels, disc brakes, and for the groupset i'd like some shimano since its what im used to

https : //www . olx . pt/anuncio/quadro-para-bicicleta-cannondale-flash-26-27-5-IDuu6d7.html#6318613800
>>
>>1018207

Dynasys is not compatible with STI-style levers, I made this mistake when building my touring bike. It is impossible to get it to shift smoothly.

Pretty much all shimano STI levers should break properly with cantilever brakes, it's V-brakes that will give you cable pull issues.
>>
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>>1018212
You can get a dyna-sys mtb rear deraileur to work with 11 and newest 10 speed ( latest tiagra I believe is the only one ) shimano sti by using a gizmo called "Travel Agent" from a company named J-Tek
>>
>>1018214

Good point, I did know about the Jtek option but opted to just get a 9 speed deore derailleur instead, worked fine without the need for a third party adapter.
>>
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>>1018027
>>1017892

The finall cost of becoming the legend 1x memster is:

Race Face NW 30/32 tooth ring - 40€ aprox (the 20€ anons aliexpress chainring recommendation looks good aswell but it only comes with minimum 32 tooth option)
Sunrace MX3 cassette - 50/60€ aprox (or you can get 50 grams heavier MS3 for about 40€)
10 speed clutched derailleur - 60€ for XT or you can save some money and get 40€ Deore one. (You can also skip this if you don't ride enduro or bumpy terrain because NW ring should be enough retention for XC in general)
Wolftooth goatlink - 20€ aprox (descreases wear and improves shifting with 42 tooth setups optional but recommended)
Sram pc 1051 10 speed chain - 20€ aprox (the cheapest non shit chain you can get)


The tools needed for the "upgrade" are:

Chain whip
Cassette removal tool
Crank puller or hollow tech plastic cap remover
Chain breaker tool
Chain wear measuring tool (if you plan to reuse your chain which is not recommended)
Basic set of allen keys
>>
I have this old bike that i have honestly never cleaned even once, what can i do make the drive train spotless? right now its all black and gunky, the frame i cleaned pretty easily but this just looks super nasty and i can't get it off
>>
>>1018232

Use degreaser with plastic/metal brush or if you are ghetto as fuck you can get aways with using a toothbrush and dishwashing detergent. Just make sure to rinse it well after and apply fresh lube on everything.

Get scrubuing you scrub.
>>
What is a good cheap bike for a beginner living in a semi-rural college town? I specifically live in Blacksburg Virginia, which is not very flat.

Also, embarrassingly I have never ridden a bike in my life (I grew up in a white neighborhood in the suburbs where everyone drove everywhere). What are some laws I should be aware of and where are the best places to learn/practice?

I have a car but I would eventually like to transition to mostly using a bike for health and cost reasons. I appreciate any comments.
>>
>>1018502
Well the laws are technically the same as for a car. If you are riding in traffic, just assume always that you are invisible to every car and anticipate they are going to just cut you off or pop their door open. But if you have never ridden a bike before all that is getting ahead of yourself.

I would go to a decent bike shop and explain your situation. A brand new entry level hybrid bike will be around $500 minimum. It won't matter what brand it is. You can test ride any of the bikes for sale and choose whichever one feels the best to you.

Do you know how to ride a bike? Do you have a friend that can teach you how to ride?

Finally riding bikes is totally awesome and rad. Hopefully it will change your life
>>
>>1018505
Thanks for the advice. I should hopefully be able to find someone who can teach me. I can't wait to get started!
>>
>>1018507
diff anon here - good luck to you m8 !
>>
>>1018502
https://blacksburg.craigslist.org/bik/5811274286.html

here u go f@m
>>
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>>1018532
this is a pretty insane deal but keep in mind the frame has to fit your body (or pretty close)

this bike is for a shortish person, low-average height tops

get the cheapest thing that fits you reasonably and ride the fuck out of it for a good while. then go to shops and test ride nice(r) bikes, that way you'll have a frame of reference and can make an experienced judgement about _if_ you should upgrade and what specifically you want without wasting a lot of money.

>>1018502
>I would eventually like to transition to mostly using a bike for health and cost reasons

I admire your decision. never take any shit from a car. don't get discouraged and never give up. you're doing the right thing,
>>
>>1018218
>10 speed clutched derailleur - 60€ for XT or you can save some money and get 40€ Deore one. (You can also skip this if you don't ride enduro or bumpy terrain because NW ring should be enough retention for XC in general)
>Wolftooth goatlink - 20€ aprox (descreases wear and improves shifting with 42 tooth setups optional but recommended)

Just buy slx 7000 rear mech. Works better then this combo.
>>
>>1018584
I made my order last night, for the same price as the SLX 7000 I got converted XT, Deore or SLX would've obviously been even cheaper. I paid an extra £10 for XT, figured I might as well since my brakes and shifters are also XT and it's also 50g+ less than all the other options.

Total cost came to £160 for the converted derailer, shifter, and the cheaper Sunrace cassette as the more expensive one was out of stock (£18 more for 60g less).
>>
>>1018584

>slx M7000

costs the same yeah but XT is still lighter even with the goatlink and also you know... it's XT
>>
>>1018584
>>1018626

Also the Deore clutched mech with goatlink will weight about the same as m7000 and do the job just fine but for 20€ less. The only advantage I see here is if you decide to jump to 11 meme in the future.
>>
>>1017655
What is the metal U in front of the derailleur for?
>>
>>1018652
It's a protector to reduce the chances of the derailer getting bent inwards if the bike gets laid on the ground or otherwise knocked into something, they're most common on kid's bikes.
>>
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How messed up is this drivetrain? The chain skips often enough that I'm scared of mashing because I might lose my balance. I'll clean it once some other parts arrive.

1/2
>>
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2/2
>>
>>1018662
I've seen worse but I think it's safe to say that those chainrings are past the point of being useable.
>>
>>1018662
PLenty of life in it. Altho you might have an issue trying to replace the chain.
>>
>>1018662
measure the chain
>>
>>1018672
Btw - check if you don't have some stiff links and measure chain stretch.
>>
>>1018672
Why would he have an issue? You can get old 6-8 speed stuff easily and cheaply online. Isn't compatibility between the older stuff a lot broader?
>>
>>1018662
the smaller 2 chainrings look fine, but loop how fucked the top of the big chainring is

a new triple crank is like $25, just replace it
>>
>>1018675
I think he meant that a new chain would skip more because the old chain is worn along with those chainrings
best thing to do would just be to replace chain and chainrings
>>
>>1018677
Oh, fair enough.
>>
>>1017685
I have to click on buses over on /o/ lol
>>
I have a screw thats stuck in the frame, it got ruined from road salts and shit and now the head is fucked so I can't use my torx wrenches on it. So I drilled it with a dremel to be able to use a flat screwdriver on it but the head is so soft that didn't work either. Now IDK what to do
>>
>>1018750
You'll have to drill it out completely and chase the threads, possibly helicoil it if the threads are completely fucked. Where abouts is the bolt?
>>
>>1018752
it's the place where you mount fenders closest to the bb.
>>
>>1018753
I know the bit you mean. If it's a through hole (usually in a bent piece of sheet metal) you could just drill it out and use a longer bolt with a nut on the other side, if it's a blind hole in a tube then you'd either have to helicoil it or you could retap it for a larger bolt.
>>
>>1018758
So there arent any ways of getting it out without fucking the threads at this point? Its a blind hole in a tube unfortunately
>>
>>1018765
You might get lucky if you're precise enough with the drill to only remove the meat of the bolt and not touch the threads (you'll then need to scrape out the remainder of the bolt threads).

With such a small and soft bolt it's not going to be easy to twist it out, your best bet is probably drilling a shallow hole in it and pressing a Torx bit into it. If they're different materials there may be some chemical way to do it, dissolving the bolt but not the frame.
>>
Any thoughts on this rack? It's made locally by a dude in my city and it's supposed to be out of aluminum and weight only 500 grams. He's wants 40 dollars for it.
>>
>>1018803
Welds and paint look like shit.
>>
Is mechanical ultegra all you will ever need unless you are racing world class?
>>
>>1018816
Ultegra is just lighter 105 if they're equivalent generations. And no, Tiagra is fine too.
>>
>>1018816
define "need"
>>
>>1018825
lets say you are some roadie bike enthusiast who will do some local races. and what are the advantages of di2?
>>
so let's say my bike gets stolen, and I happen to have bicycle insurance (I don't). Could I file a claim with the bike insurance company for cost of replacement AND THEN file a claim with my homeowner's insurance for some extra cash?
>>
>>1018850
Depends if u like being investigated for insurance fraud probably
>>
so over the last few months ive been dialing in bike fit. its a road bike, and ive eliminated all pain from my rides except for one spot.

my right arm, on the outside elbow. i dont know why but its just a dull pain when i full extend or bend my elbow.

my right is my dominant, and a little bit longer than my left if that helps at all.
>>
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What size is this bike?
>>
>>1018853
19" frame would be my estimate, call it a large

>>1018850
Sure, you can take out as many insurance policies on something as you want - whether it makes any sense to do so is an entirely different matter.

>>1018852
stop fapping so much

Also, you could try turning the bars slightly to the left to account for the difference in arm lengths, but I suspect that you've aggravated that tendon/joint doing something other than by riding your bike - if your fit was off by enough to cause an elbow problem you'd notice shoulder or wrist issues first.
>>
>>1018866
Will a large fit me?
I'm 5'9
>>
>>1018817
New Tiagra is quite awesome.
>>
>>1018870
I think it's probably too big for you, but given that we're only estimating size here photo, I would suggest you ask the seller for details and/or arrange to look at it in person to be sure.
>>
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anyone have any suggestions for a 26" touring rim?

36h is cool. wide is good, I'm running 2.125 tires. maybe ~30mm. silver is better. I trust in steel eyelets.

Something like the rhino lite xl is pretty dope, but I'm wondering if there's anything else on the market that people like.
>>
>>1018907
oh, and with a braking surface ffs
>>
>>1018803
>it's supposed to be out of aluminum
It can't support much weight them.
>>
>>1018116
prob stolen, so change a couple of things on it. maybe paint it.
>>
Am I autistic if I use runtastic road boke instead of strava? They both seem to do the same thing. Sometimes I use both at the same time. What are the pros and cons of both? Seems like strava is just more popular
>>
>>1018921
Just personally I'd want everything of mine to be on either one or the other (or all on both I guess).

You can probably set up some kind of auto-import.
>>
>>1018907
Rhino Lite is well regarded for touring.

Velocity Atlas is a classic standard touring rim, and if your'e on a budget, the NoBS is the same rim section, just without eyelets and not as nicely finished. If you want a wider rim, look at the Velocity Cliffhanger.

Velo Orange's Escapade and Diagonale rims are both available in 26"/36h, and the Escapade is pretty wide.

H Plus Son Todestrieb might be good - that's a wiiide 26" rim.
>>
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I'm considering learning how to ride a bicycle for going to buy groceries, run errands, etc. What would be a good bicycle for me to buy given the following information?

- I've never ridden a bicycle before; I'm 5'5", lightweight, and not very strong
- I'd like to use it for 5-20 minute trips to and from various grocery stores, going over terrain that ranges from flat to slightly hilly
- I'm frightened of cars
- I need to lock up my bike outside or take it inside, and I'd prefer the latter, but I don't have much space, so a compact bike might be nice I don't sacrifice too much
- I need a way to be able to put groceries on the bike too, like a big basket or something
- I'm willing to pay more for substantive increases in quality and durability but ultimately I don't need anything super-fancy as my needs are pretty ordinary
>>
>>1018925
hot damn those todestriebs are better than tits
i've just had really good success with stainless steel eyelets.
i've seen too many rims die from cracks around the spoke holes or pull throughs.
>>
>>1018927
To elaborate, there are just so many different varieties of bicycles, I don't even know where to begin looking. A couple pointers would be really helpful.
>>
My area's craigslist is full of bikes from the current or last model year.

Should I still buy from a bike from the LBS if some poor schmuck is willing to sell the same model, new-ish and barely-ridden for below MSRP?
>>
>>1018930
never buy a bike from the LBS
>>
>>1018816
>>1018827

>>1018827
i upgraded to di2 from my mechanical ultegra a few months ago since some fucker decided to trash my entire bike when it was locked outside my work.

it's fucking amazing; the most noticeable difference is that you don't have to worry about shifting under load since it'll do it perfectly regardless of the situation. you can stop taking into consideration the mechanical aspects of shifting and just shift when you want to shift, instead of having to wait that half second or whatever till your cadence/crank position/etc. is optimal

say you're grinding up a fuckhuge hill and realize halfway that you fucked up and need to switch to the granny gear. with di2 i can literally just press the button immediately and i'm in there without a hitch, whereas previously i'd have to do the whole "pump hard for a few seconds before shifting and hoping to god the chain would actually catch".
>>
>>1018934
How come?
>>
I'm having a slight problem with my rides, the ouside of my foot hurts, what causes this and how do i fix it?
I have some toe strap pedal while im waiting on my clipless ones.
>>
>>1018927
>What would be a good bicycle for me to buy given the following information?
Just learning I would want a bike with a low stand over height (i.e. easy to get on and off the saddle) with simplified hand brakes and maybe just one, two, or three gears with a trigger gear changer. Reason - easy to learn to balance, fewer bike equipment distractions so you can focus on things like looking at the right things, avoiding common hazards, and getting a sense of proper lines and lane usage. This learning bike might be a small size city bike or mountain bike. Ideally you can borrow it for a few weeks.

After a dozen or so fault-free rides you're ready to get your first bike, and the experience from your learning bike may help you decide what you're looking for. A proper fitting bike (one that matches your body size and flexibility) might feel too large and wobbly without any riding experience; that same bike will be great after you've gained some experience and confidence.

Even if you had an unlimited budget, I think you'll find your "ideal" bike will evolve as you discover your riding strengths and weaknesses, as well as how you intend to use the bike and what sort of bikes your local shops carry.

It's good to be frightened of cars. They're big, heavy, and fast.

Storing your bike in a protected area is preferred.

Well make bicycle clothing is an expense well worth the price if you're going to ride in cold and or wet weather.

Beyond a certain price, maybe US$60, bicycle helmets don't offer more protection. The extra money mostly pays for lightness, ventilation, and branding.
>>
>>1018808
Can you elaborate on this? Pretty please.
>>1018911
I'm not really looking to carry a lot of weight on it. Maybe a couple pizzas from time to time and some grosery runs.
>>
hey /n/ what is the term or acronym for a mtb with one front sprocket?

also, are there any mtb besides dj with a positive bb? i'm trying to find a fitness bike that i can manual and bunny hop on
>>
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I'm buying a bike frame from a local seller, Marin Eldridge Grade that is in the pic.

The seller says that the headset needs to be replaced. He also claims that the fork is 1". I did some research and came up with this
http://www.jimlangley.net/bicycle_spec/mtnbike/eldridge.html
It says there that the headset is 1 1/8". Which one is correct?
>>
>>1018969
1x

You can bunny hop on any bike short of something ridiculously heavy, look up road bike party.
>>
>>1018853
>that steep hta
>>
>>1018970
the headset/steerer in that pic is 1"
>>
>>1018994
Actually nvm it could be a 1 1/8" threaded. They're pretty uncommon and usually quill stem+threaded steerer means 1" which is why I said that and possibly why the seller said 1" too. You'll probably just have to measure it.
>>
>>1018936
It's still a derailer, the only difference is it's actuated by a motor instead of you pulling a cable. If it can shift under load then a cable derailer of the same quality can do so just as well, potentially even more so as you can modulate the force you apply, the speed at which you apply it, and likely apply more force than the motor can.

The advantages of electronic shifting are not having to apply force, potentially quicker shifting (due to the motor being able to move faster than your fingers), and the ability to have automated shifting (having one shifter that moves both derailers or even having it linked to cadence sensors). Also I suppose not having to run cables if it's wireless is an advantage in some situations.
>>
>>1018936
>some fucker decided to trash my entire bike when it was locked outside my work.
wat happen?
>>
Do they make a thru-bolt axle for freewheels or only for freehubs?

I realize the improvement in performance is negligible, but it may offer a slightly better durability without having to upgrade to a freehub yet.
>>
>>1019077
What do you mean by a "thru-bolt axle"? I'm going to assume you currently have either a quick release axle or a solid axle, the only other alternative I can think of would be a hollow threaded axle that uses bolts to secure it in the dropouts like some BMXs use, and I highly doubt you'd be able to convert to that. You also wouldn't benefit from doing such a conversion.
>>
>>1019079
A thru-bolt. It's a solid-ish axle that bolts on the outside of the dropout on one side and clamps on the other, without a skewer.

As opposed to a thru-axle that screws into the frame on the drive side and clamps on the non-drive side— my frame is bot compatible with something like that, and I'm pretty sure those won't work with freewheels at all.

I have a QR. I don't want a bolt on. I'm looking at options for a slightly more durable axle option without having to rebuild a wheel with a freehub.
>>
Is this a good deal???

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik/5834204911.html
>>
>>1019080
I'm still not entirely sure what it is you're after. Do you want what is essentially a through axle, but instead of threading into the frame it threads into a nut on the outside of the dropout? If so that would still be a through axle and I have no idea how such a conversion would work.

I don't know what sort of shit you're doing on a freewheel equipped bike that could possibly warrant something more durable than a QR axle. If you just want something that's more secure then get one of those security skewers that replaces the QR lever with an allen key.
>>
>>1018953
Why don't you use a basket, then? Would be easier to carry small/medium things.
>>
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>>1017875
>You either have the "EXCESS EX" or "MAGMA" model.
CONFIRMED: EXCESS EX!
>>
>>1019083
yeah, if you're into folding bikes
those are decently well made, not quite the same level as a bike friday though
>>
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I have bought this thing some years ago. On the first rain it got, it got fucked. The rubber button makes contacts on the small circuit board you see at the middle. But it does not stops to become oxidated, so when I use it I need to clean first.

There is a simple way to become clear of this oxidation, or is it a lost battle? Should I throw it at the rubbish bin, and buy a new one?

A problem I'm considering to buy a new one is that noone have a metallic hose clamp. Always the same plastic shit that breaks when installing. This frustrates me too much...
>>
My old-ass restore project has a white saddle that felt fine but after riding it around the block has jean stains on it.
What do I do?
>>
>>1019100
Usually a pink pencil eraser will rub the corrosion/oxidation off of electrical contacts.

source: my dad was an electrical engineer and worked on circuits. Also I used to do it all the time to old cartridge video games. works like a charm. just make sure to blow out the residue afterwards.
>>
>>1019114
I clean my white saddle and bartape with a magic sponge eraser. They're cheap as fuck and you just use them with water.
>>
>>1019115
OK, it will remove once. But there isn't a way to clean it for once and for all? Needing to clean this piece every month is too effort-consuming!
>>
>>1019118
+1
what this guy said, i have tried tons of diffirent solvents with no luck and those magic erasers or generic equivalent does a pretty good job, use them for shoes,saddle,tape, all of mine are white.
>>
oh yeah theyre so good
bike rider are the best, not stuck up cunts who think they can clog up the road and ,ake the lives of respectable white collar workers harder, fucking lower classes, they dont understand how hard life as a white collar worker is.
>>
>>1018934
Why shouldn't you buy from the local bike shop?

I get my options as far as used bikes, but as I understand it, some manufacturers refuse to supply online stores, so what are my options for new stuff outside a brick and mortar bike shop?
>>
>>1018930
Can anyone explain why this happens? do fat people decide to try and get healthy and give up or what?
>>
>>1019136
he is probably saying to not go to a LBS as things tend to be overpriced, although i beg to differ, if you go at an end of season sale where they try to get rid of old inventory you can sometimes find good deals, also it comes with a bike fit and free tune ups for a few months. But if you want a good new bike try online brands like Fuji and Cube.
>>
>>1019143
>>
>>1019146
FUCK.

>>1019143
These sales occur sometime between September and December, right?
>>
>>1019147
Im in Toronto and there was a bike show 2 days ago, it was a blowout sale, i didnt go though. But yea around know which is fall would be the time to go. If you do plan to go to a LBS ask if they have discount old inventory first.
>>
>>1019086
Because baskets look like shit and are not as functional as a proper rack.
>>
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>>1019206
>Because baskets look like shit
I disagree.
>>
>>1019240
i actually like that, not even memeing
>>
>>1019240
Oh well. We can't all dream of becoming little girls.
>>
>>1019251
>becoming
Speak for yourself. I'm already a little girl, you insensitive clod.
>>
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>>1019130
what
>>
Is cross-chaining really that bad? I don't see why it would be, I mean a 1x setup has to run the full spread from a single chainring, why can't you from 2 chainrings?
>>
>>1019308
1x setup doesn't have the chainring you're not in to get in the way, also it's presumably more central on the cassette than either ring?
>>
>>1019310
Yeah chainline is out when you crosschain. Crossing small/small means the chain rubs on the big ring and is also super slack so it's easier to drop the chain on bumps. Crossing big/big puts more tension in the system and wears the chain quicker. If your chain is short you can overstretch the derailleur.

1x has narrow wide chainrings which eliminate/reduce the chain dropping problem. They're more central so they keep a proper chainline and you have one cog so you fit the chain to that.

Crosschaining isn't going to destroy your bike but it just speeds up the wear on drivetrain components.
>>
>>1019308
Mostly what >>1019313 said as to why 1x isn't as bad, however cross chaining with a isn't super bad. Modern 9/10/11 speed chains can easily handle the greater angle and the front derailer should do a fairly decent job of keeping the chain on the chainring. As mentioned you will likely find that the chain rubs at the extreme ends of the cassette range and the premature wear that will cause may be a concern to you.
>>
>>1019251
Your sex does not changes if you use a basket, anon.
>>
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>>1018162
>>1018024
OK, I checked the dimensions of the tire:
>50-559 (26x2.00)

This link says:
http://www.linuxcomp.com.br/produto/12/pneu-pirelli-26-x-2.0-scorpion-mb1-s-arame-anti-furo-kevlar
>TPI: 60 Foldable
Is this good?
>>
So I live in SF where commute is hell.

I'm in the market to get my first commuter bike. Any recommendations? I don't think I'll be biking up steep hills, but I will have to encounter some here and there, but general use will be on the road.

Budget is probably <$1000
>>
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Is this gear wheel OK? Should I clean it? How?
>>
>>1018116
STOLEN
T
O
L
E
NIGGERS
T
O
L
E
N
>>
>>1019369
SELL THE BIKE
>>
>>1018937
never gonna be worth it for used bikes.
if you have the money for a new bike go to the LBS.
otherwise the LBS is best for parts and repairs requiring special tools
>>
>>1018970

I think I have a older eldrige grade that has a 1 1/8 steerer so this will probably have to.
>>
Fatty here, going to start with a bicycle..

Anyone got tips? I'll be riding in a good sized park. How should I track distance, and what would make a decent starting point? I haven't ran a mile in years, and I've put on over 50 lbs since.
>>
>>1019395
what bike do you have? and download strava i guess so you can track your rides and see progress over time. When you start dont focus on intensity but rather endurance.
>>
>>1019405
It's a "Social Bike" funded by my city. I want to say they're geared road bikes that use a drive shaft.
>>
>>1019382
1" is the older standard ya dip
>>
>>1019369
that thing is beyond fucked
>>
>>1019409
I dont think you know what a road bike is......
this is a road bike, the bike you own is a city cruiser,expect to go a brisk walking speed on them as thats as fast as its going to go. If you are serious about losing weight and want to cardio that is fun, it may be worth investing in a decent bike.
>>
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>>1019370
>>
>>1019417
Could you please explain further?
>>
>>1019369
Teeth look in great shape, just scrub that shit with an old toothbrush and some degreaser
>>
I'm looking into getting a bike for the first time since I was a kid. I'm looking at doing some riding on trails, nothing too extreme. Currently thinking of getting a Fuji Nevada 1.9 29er mountain bike for $400. Anyone have any experience with this bike? Good buy for a beginner mountain bike or are there other options a kind anon would recommend?
>>
>>1019428
How tall are you?
>>
>>1019429
5'8"
>>
>>1019430
Go 27.5
>>
>>1019431
Alright, that one did feel better when I tried it out at the bike shop, it's just the worker recommended the 29 to me. What would you say about the bike itself, good first purchase?
>>
>>1019372
WHY?
>>
>>1019432

for your height 27.5 should be ideal. For someone starting at 5.11 and higher 29 is better.
>>
>>1019432
It's not completely terrible, it's a step above department store BSOs, but it's still pretty shitty. If that's your budget then you're better off going second hand.
>>
>>1018853
XL. Unless you are 6'2" or more, skip it.
>>
>>1019426
>some degreaser
I think I don't have one. Could you please indicate some?
>>
My wheel is true and properly dished, but I've noticed that in order to be correctly set up and give the best performance from my v-brakes, that one side used the small spacer, and the other side uses the large spacer.

Is that weird?
>>
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I'm having a sub life crisis and feel like dropping a lot of cash on a steel colnago.

Should I restore an old steel frame or buy a new colnago master frame and build it up with modern components?

I already have a carbon road bike for gotta go fast.
>>
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Is this a good derailer brand?
>YAMADA
>>
>>1019487
I guess if it shifts okay than it is good. It is a pretty cheap, low tier looking derailleur though.
>>
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>>1019472
I use this stuff. Cheap and non-toxic
>>
>>1019490
This brand does not exists on my country.
And I have never saw something branded as "all-purpose cleaner" here.
>>
>>1019494

I would try something that you use inside your house to clean your stove. You could probable get most of that ring cleaned just with dish soap and hot water, it just might take a lot of soap and scrubbing.

After you rinse it all off with water and it is clean dry it off with a clean rag then get lube on the chain.
>>
>>1019494
Also look for a "citrus degreaser"

Bike shops also sell bike degreaser but you can usually find something cheaper at the hardware or grocery store.
>>
>>1019380
I don't get it. How fucked up can a current year, used bike be if the frame and components look clean and maintained?

Granted, of course, that buying a bike at an end of season sale might be more profitable than buying the same bike used.
>>
>>1019359
find the current /bbg/

read the OP and post your info over there.
>>
>>1019425
its not really that messed up, there's no excessive sharktoothing on the large chainring, but theres some flaky looking teeth on the middle chainring and the middle chainring looks really unevenly worn from tooth to tooth

the thing is, its an exceptionally shitty crankset, and it really just isn't worth the time to clean it up because even after you do it'll still be a piece of shit halfway through its life
>>
>>1019472
check under your shit for the turbo strength cleaner you use on pasta pans, its the same thing
>>
>>1019475
are they post/screw in breaks or cartridge?
also, how worn are the pads
>>
>>1019487
in general anything with a red tensioner wheel is low end
derailers don't really make a difference unless they're broken or set up wrong though
>>
>>1019550
Threaded posts.
Not worn at all, considering how long I've had them. They're Kool Stops and if I'm honest sometimes I feel like I'll never get rid of them. I really should have bought the thinlines. The braking surface on my rims are *just* wide enough to accommodate the pads, but it takes a little more patience to get it right.

It doesn't really bother me. Braking performance is great, even though the arms are pretty middle of the road. Rebound rate it good. and the pads are equally spaced from the rims. It just seems odd to me and wondered if anyone else thought so as well.
>>
If my bike came standard with 700c 40mm tires, what is the smallest diameter I can replace the tires with while using the same tubes?
>>
>>1019561
probably 30
most tubes seem to be up to 30, or greater than 30
>>
>>1019561
Those tubes are usually 35-44 recommended I think, you could probably go to 32.

Not sure why you would, though.
>>
>>1019562
Thanks. I'm looking to go thinner for better rolling resistance but I don't want to compromise curb-jumping ability and sudden offroading capability. Should I perhaps try a 35 out, or stay closer to 40, say a 38?
>>
>>1019563
good bet
>>1019564
yeah I'd say 35 is safest/most guaranteed. MAYBE a 32. Either is a good size for a CX tire.
>>
Whats a good mid level/non-crap road bike? Something in the 500+ range
>>
I live in a shitty area, my previous bike was stolen. I got a new bike with a more sturdy chain lock, but now I'm paranoid it could get stolen again.

Does /n/ have recommended GPS trackers for cheap (chinkshit from sites like aliexpress?), with decent battery, mobile apps, etc so you can track the bike's exact location if it gets stolen?.
>>
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>>1019561
>>
>>1019581
>mid level
>500+

mid level for many people would be a 105 carbon bike, retail these go for about 2000$ minimum, be more specific, whats the max your gunna spend.
>>
>>1019581
>>1019602
Well, technically speaking $2000 is in the 500+ range, so is $10000...

To be more reasonable a bike with alloy frame and carbon fork, with new tiagra tier groupset would be very decent. Probably 1-1.5k?
>>
>>1019603
yea, thats how much they tend to go for, a bike from any reputable brand will do, just go into your LBS if you really want assistance.
>>
when I pedal in a very high cadence I fell like I'm bouncing on my saddle.
is this normal or can I adjust something to stop this ?
>>
>>1019553
>>1019489
OK, thanks for the information!
>>
>>1019622
I have the same and I think it's supposed to be a bad thing, IIRC the term is hip rock.
>>
Is 531 the ultimate in steel?
>>
>>1018853
>That pos cable lock

That bike wouldn't last 5 seconds round here
>>
>>1019555
yeah, kool stops are awesome, they don't really wear out unless you beat the shit out of them
screw in posts are good so its not just slipping (i have cantilevers with friction posts and those never stay in place)

i guess if it stops well and its even on each side its fine :)
>>
>>1019592
>chain lock
its already stolen, get a u lock
>>
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>>1019642
No u
>>
>>1019622
Unless you're trying to spin on a cruiser bike, or using a saddle designed to sway - bouncing is a sign that you're wasting energy because your fit is off somehow. The most likely cause is your saddle height is too high/low, but fore/aft position, saddle shape, and crank length could also be contributing to the problem.

>>1019636
Nope. There are newer steels that do the same things but better than 531, and even in the era when Reynolds 531 was big there were products from Columbus and Tange that rivaled it.
>>
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What does /n/ think of inverted North Road bars?
>>
>>1019553
>>1019489
OK, thanks for the information!>>1019499
>hot water
Why does it need to be hot?
>>
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>>1019671
they're great
>>
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Can anyone ID this bike?
>>
>>1019681
It's a low-mid-tier Peugeot from the 70's with non-original parts. If you want to know more there are of couple of sites online that explain how to date Peugeot frames based on the decals and serial number.
>>
>>1019672
>why does it need to be hot?
because hot water is better for cleaning than cold water

t. guy who used to wash dishes because he was too baked to get a real job
>>
>>1019581
I recently purchased a Jamis Ventura Comp.
Sora with carbon fork, aluminum frame, all Ritchey components, yadda yadda.

I paid $900 new for it but it's really good bang for buck. Any other brand would have cost me 300 more for comparable specs with "in house" components like stem, etc.

Yesterday I found a new Caad9. Slightly better spec drivetrain, for $775, on rock bottom clearance. That's a steal but too late for me. Also the wrong size.

I'm very happy with the Jamis, though. I could say it's not as "lively" as other bikes from other companies are, but it's a stiff frame, and power transfer feels on point. I guess what I mean is it doesn't like being "hucked around" on the road. But point it in the right direction and keep your line smooth and it's a rocket. It's not a "race bike" but can feel just as deliberate to ride at half the cost.
Point being, Jamis is usually really good bang for the buck unless you happen to find an absolutely stellar end-of-year deal like the Caad9, and it happens to be your size.

Barring that, just look for something used. Post local Craigslist or bartering site, and budget, and usually /n/ will help you out.
>>
>>1019622
>>1019635
This. Likely saddle is too high and you're having to stretch to get your feet all the way down. Try lowering your saddle by .5cm at a time until you don't feel that way anymore.
>>
Should I get a mountain bike or a hybrid bike? I want to do as much single track trails as possible, but I know I'd probably be getting around town most of the time. What do?
>>
>>1019724
hardtail mountain bikes are far more versatile and capable than hybrids.
>>
>>1019724
RIGID 90s MTN W/SLIX
then put knobbies on for single track, seriously getting a hybrid for single track is dumb, you're better off swapping wheelsets for trails and one for riding around town. I used to swap tires but I got bored of the whole routine before hitting the track so I just bought another wheelset.
Unless the hybrid you are talking about is a cyclocross bike go with a hardtail
>>
I have a frame with horizontal track dropouts lying around.
can put gears on ?
there are deraileurhangers for these frames , but dose it work properly or is it not worth bothering with ?
>>
Where can I find some info about eccentric bottom bracket standards?
>>
>>1019813
The rear spacing will be too narrow to take a geared hub. If it's a steel frame it could be cold set, might have an issue with chainline though. If it's a track frame there won't be any cable guides for gear cables (might have to drill the BB shell to take a guide) and it may not be drilled for brakes either.

More hassle than it's worth imo
>>
The outside of my foot aches after a while on my bike, why is this and how do i fix it? i have toe clip pedals
>>
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>>1019500
>ZEP Heavy Duty Citrus Degreaser
Oh, ok. The "heavy duty" part helped me.
Pic related...
>VEJA heavy clean
This one, "VEJA", exist in my country. The ZEP one, doesn't.
>>
>>1019602
>>1019603

You can get 105 bikes with garbon forks for 1k if you catch a sale.
>>
>>1019548
>the middle chainring looks really unevenly worn from tooth to tooth
Why does this happens? How can I prevent?
>>
>>1019893
Wait, do you mean bikes with 105 shifters or one hundred and five distinct bikes?
>>
>>1019549
I don't use anything, I don't clean pasta pans.
>>
>>1019909
Not him, but I wouldn't worry about it - the uneven shape of the teeth on your crankset is largely the result of the manufacturing process (all three chainrings were cast as one piece), even if uneven wear has made them worse there's nothing you can do about it.
>>
>>1019915
>even if uneven wear has made them worse there's nothing you can do about it
There is, replacing by a new and better one. But, how to determine it's better?
>>
>>1019813
>can put gears on ?
IGH and zip-ties for the cable, ezpz.
You can even make a three speed fixed gear with a Sturmey-Archer S3X hub.
Git er done and post pics.
>>
Why does every analysis of bike weight saying "hurr it doesnt matter dumb fred" act like 30 seconds off a long steep climb is nothing?

We've all been there, dying and panting, weak in the legs, those last few minutes of a big climb. 30 seconds less of that? Yes please.

I get the feeling that people pushing heavy steel bikes don't even climb. They really don't understand what those 30 seconds mean.
>>
>>1020039
>30 seconds less of that? Yes please.
What a faggot, to ride is to suffer.
Might as well be riding an e-bike to get you up those hills bucko
>>
>>1020039
If the lighter bike is knocking 30 seconds off a climb it's either a ridiculously long climb or the bike is a hell of a lot lighter. 3kg matters, 300g doesn't for the vast majority of people. So yeah, 30 seconds could very well be practically nothing, shit if the climb is long enough it could be within the margin of error.
>>
>>1020048
What are you smoking? The last 30 seconds of a hard climb are always bad, no matter if it's a 3 minute climb, or a 30 minute climb.
>>
>>1020054
I ride a bent

YOU DON'T KNOW MY PAIN
>>
>>1020039
The "hurr doesn't matter" response is a backlash against:
-weight weenie obsessives
-the oversimplification that lightest is always best or worth paying for
-people who overlook body weight and fitness while worrying about bike weight
-too much emphasis on treating all cycling as racing

Don't take it too seriously, it's easier to climb on a lighter bike and everyone knows that, the question is how much effort people should put into having lighter bikes.
>>
Recommendations for an extremely short stem?
>>
>>1020073
dude.... its stem, its a pretty generic part, all LBS will have a huge pile of swapped out stems you can get for cheap. Unless you want a fancy carbon stem with and integrated computer mount.
>>
>>1020074
so what, some <$15 stem off of ebay isnt gonna kill me?
>>
>>1020076
Do you not have a LBS near you? when they do bike fits they swap out stems with diffirent ones so they end up getting a hoard of stems, my lbs has a huge maybe 100+ collection of used stems on the wall. i got a deda stem for 30$
>>
>>1020080
well hell maybe ill check them out the next time im around there. Theres one on amazon for like $8 with good reviews in case my LBS doesnt have any. They have a pretty strict rule about not selling any "used" parts though
>>
>>1020082
If your lbs does a fit with each sold bike, the stems would have been swapped out from new bikes they had sold.
>>
How hard is it to put together a road bike from parts sourced separately?
>>
Is there a guide for building your own bike? A la logical increments chart for pc building.
>>
>>1020113
It doesn't really work for bikes like it does for PCs, it's almost never cheaper to build a bike from components than it is to just buy a complete bike.
>>
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tell me why i shouldnt use an fm098 frame
>>
>>1020064
They shouldnt worry about the weight of the bike unless they're under 7% body fat
>>
>>1020093
For a cheap beater at a co-op? Not that hard, built up a bike this summer for around 80 bucks.

For a new bike? with new components/upper tier? Idk why you would unless you want to feel accomplished and add a personal touch to your ride. Unless you got every deal on parts/frame then it would cost more.

It's not hard, just get the right parts and have lots of patience.
>>
>>1020115
It's also hard because frames aren't easily boiled down into 1 or 2 objective metrics that people can obsess over.

For my next bike I'm planning to test ride and buy a bike from an LBS with the strategy of 'best riding frame with the cheapest components' and get a proper fit, I'll possibly upgrade components down the track, but don't want to commit the $ up front.
>>
>>1020123
Yeah if you could boil bike parts down to terraflops or whatever life would be easier.
>>
I've got an old MTB with M70/R V-brake brake pads on the front and unspecified ones on the back (both wheels are the same type, though). Will I be able to buy http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/clarks-72mm-v-brake-pads/rp-prod55821 and put them both on the front and the back? I googled a bit on brake types but I found no explanation really.
>>
>>1020054
I never said it wasn't, the thing is that's 16% versus 1.6%. The latter is not as big a deal as the former (16% off a 30 minute climb would be about 5 minutes) and is well within the variation you could expect over such a long climb.

>>1020076
Probably not, although it may be more likely. What's more likely to happen is it'll break during installation, maybe stripping the head on the poor quality bolts or stripping the threads in the stem.

I used to ride a 32mm stem, it was the shortest I could find at the time and cost about £10 off Ebay (was a fake Truvativ). I did 6ft drops to flat with that thing and it held up fine.
>>
>>1017707
>nitrile gloves
This. No weight and space, many uses and doesn't dissolve in oil or chemicals like latex does.
>>
>>1020116
does anyone who doesn't race put their name on their bike with the country beside? i wanna do it for the aesthetics, most printing shops do stickers right?
>>
>>1019548
>its an exceptionally shitty crankset
Hm, so it's a set? I tought the parts were independent from each other.
>>
>>1018853
This lock isn't well-placed, and isn't secure anyway.
>>
>>1019548
Should I then replace it?
>>
NEW THREAD:
>>1020209
>>1020209
>>1020209
>>1020209
>>
>>1019249
Thanks.
>>
>>1017673

They aren't implemented for traffic reasons. They're implemented for community, economic and health benefits.
>>
Hey
Wanting to get back into biking but I dont really know what type of bike to look for. Just looking to use it to commute to work and other inner city stuff, public transport is not possible to my workplace sadly.
Thread posts: 316
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