>What is minimalism?
Minimalism involves taking images and reducing them down to basic colors and removing most features. Most wallpapers will not include shadowing or faces, but this is subjective.
>Guide to Making Your Own
Use either Illustrator or Inkscape (both are free if you know what I mean).
1) Do not post images with incredibly intricate designs, vague or conflicting colors, or undefined edges, these make minimalizing very difficult.
2) Be sure to thank the artist!
1) Always upload as at least 1080p PNGs, try and post transparents too.
2) Look over other people's works! We need good criticism if we want to improve!
3) Watermarks/signatures are not highly necessary.
Can't decide which one I like better. What do you guys think?
Requesting! Thank you in advance to whomever picks this up.
Archive anon here:
We had an amazing amount of transparents posted last thread, at 23 new transparents bringing the total count to 218 images!
Thanks again to everyone who continues to selflessly work so we can all enjoy our favorite minimalized anime.
Keep posting transparents and have a great New Year everyone!
Re-re-requesting, preferably wtih #5d5650 / 93,86,80 as background color.
Thanks in advance.
Requesting both Riela on the left and Imca on the right. If its too much to ask for both or its not possible, I would like at least Imca.
I said I would post this over the weekend but I ended up stuck at the airport for a while so I couldn't work on it.
It's a little rough since I'm fairly new, but I can upload the .ai or make some changes if people point them out.
Since I thought I wanted to have initiative, I did it myself , it's a bit rough since it's my first one, critique would be appreciated!
Not too bad, but here are some things:
1) The fire has many jagged or flat edges at the tips. Make them single node tips with independent handles and smooth them out. This will help make the fire look a lot more interesting instead of jagged.
2) You have a lot of color peeking, or layers going above others incorrectly, especially in the sword and the fire around it. Always put a bright contrasting color in the background to look for things like this, and hide the coloring that shouldn't be seen. You also have some layers going over others instead of ending flush on the other (ie. the fire on the sword and a couple other places). Either make it so that the layers are below the other object, or use Smart Guides (Ctrl+U) to help you clip the nodes to the fill of the other shape.
3) The area behind the yellow ring on her finger needs to be black, as that yellow is part of the glove (see the thumb one). The area under her face is supposed to be part of her chest, so match that white coloring with the skin coloring above it. The belt to the right is supposed to be above the hair, so move the layer for it above the hair. You also simplified some of the longer hair and fire. Don't do this. Go all out and make sure you draw it like it is in the original. It will be hard at first, but it will make your images much better.
You have tons of color peeking, and odd lineart throughout. It looks like if you left strokes on too. Read the tutorial in the OP and make sure to follow what it says.
Vectors work in layers. You need to layer your fills in such a way that other colors aren't improperly showing over others, others are properly hiding under others, without having any color peeking in between. For instance, you should draw the hair first, and then draw the face so that it hides under the hair. Since you drew the face last, it will be above the hair in the layer, but you can move it down below the other. If you're in Illustrator, you can go into the layer and simply click and drag it down (or use Ctrl+Shift+[ to move it to the bottom, and Ctrl+Shift+] to move it to the top, while its selected). Do similar things throughout the rest of the image. Always be looking for whats the best part to hide under others so as to reduce color peeking, and make your life easier.
Requesting this, only Shimakaze though, the robots isn't the thing I want.
If it's possible, or, if anyone has any other Shimakaze ones, I'd like those too, please.
Thanks for the advice. I'll clean up what you mentioned. I have trouble finding it unless I really zoom in, so thanks.
I got lazy with the flame and just did selection->path in photoshop. Should I redo it by hand or do you think it's salvagable as is?
You should redo it by hand. It probably created many unnecessary nodes that aren't worth fixing.
Part of doing these vectors is learning how to place nodes and use handles. Taking shortcuts like that won't help you.
Hey anon, I followed every advice you said, and thought that it would be futile to fix my first one, since it has a lot of errors, instead I went to practice my fundamentals with this one, and then retake the first one
I think I fixed most of the color peeking.
I tried to do the fire by hand but I feel like I just made it worse...
When I smoothed it out it looked unnatural, and when I made it sharper it looked even worse... Would using Object>Path>Simplify... be useful here?
Looks better, except for the tail in the back. Still have some color peeking there. You also use a little too many nodes, especially on the beak. Only place nodes at the major curves, and use handles to see if you can shape the given area before adding extra nodes. This will help reduce lumpiness. Don't overextend the handles where you flatten them at the nodes though. Use smooth nodes on the paddles too, instead of sharp ones.
It looks a hell of a lot better to me. You are making images that are very crisp and infinitely scalable. You want things to be sharp and smooth. The blocky, inconsistent, and fairly messy style you did before does not look good because its too easy to see in the vector form. Raster based images get away with things like that due to their low quality and how they blur naturally, but vectors are the complete opposite. This is why the smooth and sharp look prevails in this format.
Never use any simplification tool. All it does is remove extra nodes and place others in poor spots. You need to keep practicing on your own and learn where to place nodes, and how to use handles. You have to be patient with this. Keep doing things by hand, even if it takes awhile. Do a couple more and you will start to get the hang of it.
I tried to soften up the lumpiness in some curves, some did put a good fight, softened also the paddles and the eyes, as long as the neck thing, banished the color picking. I still use too many nodes, I'll try to use the handles more often. Thanks for all the advises anon!
Looks better. Like I mentioned to the other guy, just keep practicing. It will take a few more before you start to get the hang of it, but once you do, this will become very easy to do.
Delivering. Let me know if you want anything changed.
Not him, but here are some things:
1) You got color peeking in a couple places. Make sure to place a high contrasting background behind the image when checking for errors. It will help with finding them.
2) For the white stripes on the skirt and shirt, make sure you make them smoother. Do not place any nodes except those at the endpoints, and place with the handles to get them to curve properly. Only add a pair of nodes if that fails. A good trick is to get one proper, and copy it for the other. You want those to be the same or very similar.
3) For the hair, curve the tips more. You want hair to always be curving in a certain direction, as it will give it flow and direction. You never want it to be fat or straight downwards as it makes the hair look poor.
4) You have some odd aliasing in places like at the leg or when the white stripes meet the edge. Are you exporting as Type Optimized (Hinted) (assuming you're on Illustrator). Make sure you are, and if so, make sure that if there is any coloring directly underneath another, that you hide the one underneath (ie. move the nodes under).
5) Always use IQDB when someone has posted an image For instance, the one he posted is incredibly poor quality, but if you use IQDB, you can find one that is significantly higher resolution here: http://danbooru.donmai.us/posts/2095107. This will make making the vector much easier.
Okay, it's embarrassing I had to repost this because I noticed at the last minute some issues.
I beg your pardon for inconveniently abuse your wisdom, and I bluntly ask for your critique
No problem. I enjoy doing this.
It is a major improvement over the original. However, there is still some color peeking. Remember to draw under the other shape with the skin. Don't even try to follow the curves of the hair. Just draw a big block under the hair so you circumvent the issue of color peeking entirely. If it's above the layer, then move it under the other. Also, put a high contrasting background color behind the image so that you can spot color peeking easier. Also, like I said with the other guy, keep the tips of hair thin, and make sure you use the two independent handles at those tips to properly curve the hair in a certain direction at all times.
Oh, I forgot to mention about skin color. When picking skin colors, select it from the original, and then edit the color. Go to the HSB scale, and look at its values. Try to keep the range between these values: H: 25-35, S:15-24, and B:95-100. Saturation has the biggest effect, with less Saturation giving it a more pale color, and more saturation giving it a more rich yellow color. Depending on the character, you will want something in between.
Still some major color peeking for the guy on the right side of his face between the hair and clothing. Other than that its better. Skin color is an issue though. The Hue and Saturation is too high, causing a yellow tint of coloring. Keep the values between whats listed here >>1874215 for the skin, and match both characters to be the same skin color.
Might want to try that again.
You also lack curvature for the tips of the hair, especially at the back of the hair. For square hair, use sharp nodes with independent handles, instead of rounded ones. For the beads on the hair, use the circle tool instead of attempting to create it by hand. For the white stripes on the shirts, use only the nodes and handles at the endpoints, and make sure its thickness is consistent.
I don't know how colour blind can you be, but that's clearly blonde hair.
I did this one recently, this is the second minimalism I've made so far.
There is some color peeking, the zip is strangely disposed (lack of continuity) and the end of the jacket is too flat. There are some other specific things that I rather discuss after you solve these things.
Oh shoot, that odd flat line was because I didn't crop it correctly.
1. How am I doing?
2. Hands and the pendent look a bit funny I know, how can I fix them?
3. Any suggestions for the pantyhose? What color?
1. Not too bad. You forgot to color a piece of hair to the left of the face. For skin color, try to used a more neutral color versus the darker one used in the original. Using the HSB scale, try to to keep the skin coloring within these values: H: 25-35, S: 15-24, B: 95-100.
2. For the hands, use smooth nodes for most of the areas, and spread the handles out a fair distance. For the fingertips, make sure you properly curve them to give them a proper bend, including the one to the right as well. The pendant looks fine except for the string. Give those nodes independent handles, and properly curve the middle portion so that it bends instead of being straight and flat. Use the original to help.
3. Use the original orange coloring. You can add the green patches if you want (I would), but its not necessary.
Fixed the hands, pendant and missing piece of hair. Added some green patches to the legs to see how they would fit in. Does it look right?
Looks better. You still lack emphasis on the major finger though. Notice in >>1875336 that the node that exits the thumb and starts into the index finger is a sharp node with independent handles. Any time you have an area that would normally be separated by separate lineart (if you were doing fills), you should end that shape as a sharp node with independent handles. That way, you know what an object terminates and another begins, considering you don't have the luxury of lineart in a minimalist vector. This will help the distinction between the thumb and index finger be easier, instead of looking odd. Having independent handles there will also help you shape the knuckle side of the finger, and allow it to curve more properly.
The skin coloring is far too saturated on the hand. You have it around 40, which is too high, causing an orange look. You want it to be a mostly light color with a light tint of brown or yellow (depending where you are in the Hue field). Keep it within the values stated above and you should be good. Make sure you make all skin color the same coloring too. The stockings look fine, and I like the green patchwork part. For the green I would add a tiny bit of saturation. About 3-5 more should do the trick, but no more than that.
Looks good. All I would do is fix the top left corner node for the green patch on the knee. The handles are a little too extreme, causing it to stick out in comparison to the rest of them. Loosen the handles at the node and it should help.
Here's a large version. Any color recommendations for the background?
Nah, I hardly ever make wallpapers. Just set up the dimensions for an artboard, and place the character somewhere on it. You can center it with the Align tool however you want. Then make a large fill that covers the artboard behind the image and starting just color picking colors from RGB spectrum until you find colors that fit. So long as they are easy on the eyes, you should be fine. Make sure you make the wallpaper in your vector program with the vector and not the image, so you can maintain its infinite scalability. If you make a 1920x1080 wallpaper within the program, than exporting at 300 PPI should yield 8000x4500, which can handle any monitor up to 8K, which will be overkill for some time.
I made that picture and I am deeply concerned that it's being posted and some people's responses.
Unless that's you Butter, who the fuck is still posting this.
Have one of the edits.
Question, how should I proceed on the ribbon? I'm trying to not use shadows for this edit.
I'm sorry, that's what I was trying to convey by saying restart. You need to extend out the colors you already have to be under the ribbon once that's completed, except for the white above it.
I think it would look really nice if the colors were softer, more pastel.
If anyone would attempt this I would be very appreciative!
What difficulties are you exactly having? If you want there to be a distinction between the skirt and ribbon, then using shadows is the easiest way. The only other way is to make the ribbon a different shade of blue so it appears on top of the skirt and does not meld with it. Otherwise you just keep it the same color and it melds.
For future images, always try to find the original image first. You were working off a pretty poor vector trace of an original image, which makes the job more difficult.
You definitely seem to be using too many nodes, especially in the fingers, ribbon, and hair. Only place nodes at the endpoints and major curves, and then use the handles to try and fulfill a given area. If they can't, only then should you add a node in between. This is very important for fingers, since they tend to require more nodes to get the shape right, and to keep the finger smooth. For the fur of the cat ears, use the handles more at the tips to give the fur direction and more emphasis. You don't want those areas to be flat and straight.
You also have some color overlapping, with the face and the collar, and the hair and the fur on the cat ears. If you're doing this in Illustrator, use Smart Guides (Ctrl+U) to help snap layers together so they don't overlap.
Here is the .ai file to see node placements: https://mega.nz/#!R8ABGSSI!hqgt72kYDc4o8iWXTcui1uw48FKZKTHIWOKYn0rlSIM
requesting both characters and rescale to 1080
thanks in advance
So...this may be an odd question...but is it a REQUIREMENT that there be no faces in minimalist design? there must be a way to incorporate facial features while still being true to minimalism style
I'm debating on just ditching this because I can't really get a good feel on the stripes. I already got rid of the ribbon because it just didn't seem to mesh well.
You can incorporate it if you want. However, the more you add to a minimalism image, the more it no longer becomes minimalism. If you add every detail then all you're missing is lineart. That takes away from what minimalism is about, which is about having very little.
That's because you aren't keeping any of your nodes or handles parallel, making the stripes look messy and inconsistent. Minimize nodes, and make sure they are kept parallel at all times.
I haven't slept in 30 or so hours, so I hope you can forgive my third chromosome.
I tried to redo the hands (only got the mediocre right one, the other I copy pasted because I was irritated of redoing it a fourth time)
Fixed the overlapping
The ribbon I don't even know what the fuck am I doing. Sorry to the one I supposed to deliver, I'm dogshit.
This is the one. don't thank me, thank the one who redid the ribbon and the hands I shitted on
Whoa those are great. Thanks.
I think 2 things can make it better.
The bow behind her hair looks strange without detail.
I think it would look good removed.
Also, her white shirt that sticks out left of her pants, I think it being white is a problem (makes me think of a diaper @_@)
What if that white strip was flesh tone like her legs? And if that's done, then the piece of clothing that's already flesh tone next to it, under her dark shirt, maybe just extend the darker brown where that is.
What do you think?
(apologies for spamming)
know what, don't change anything. after looking at it a while it doesn't need tweeking at all. i typed out those suggestions too hastily. err. my bad lol. Thanks again.
When you've been vectoring for 3 years, you know how to use the pen tool. You have to minimize nodes, and use handles effectively. Only place nodes at major curves, and play with the handles before adding another node. The less nodes you use, the smoother and cleaner your image will be. This is vitally important, considering a vector is viewable at very high resolutions. This only gets better with practice, so do more vectors with that in mind, and you should naturally get better. Getting more sleep also helps.
Not bad, but here are some things.
The hair from the tail should be under the leg, much like the rest is under the shoes. The hair at the top left under the left ear has a color error. There are far too many nodes for the clothing next to the hair. Only place nodes at the major curves, and keep the area smooth. Wobbly lineart from the original does not translate well to a vector. You're missing a piece of hair on the bottom left. Some of your hair tips lack curvature, or do not smoothly go towards the tip. Use the handles at the tip of the hair more to give it direction, and make sure you keep the curvature to that tip smooth, by using handles more, instead of extra nodes. The shoe laces have far too many nodes. Keep that area smooth, by only placing nodes at major curves, and using handles to fulfill the rest.
Considering there are very few lines in minimalism art, you can cheat like that. However, I prefer you learn it the right way, but that's because I come from normal vectors that have much more lineart.
Final version mainly because, the semester starts for me tomorrow.
Best way to handle buttons like these? Already tried the three on the left, but I can't seem to get the three on the right to look okay.
Just use the circle tool. Create it first, and then adjust the 4 sides with the Selection tool (V) (if you are in Illustrator). Also, make sure your color mode is in RGB and not CMYK (File > Document Color Mode > RGB)
There will be plenty of tools that you will discover that make your life easier. Don't feel bad if it takes you awhile to discover them. It happens to everyone. Feel free to ask questions to help speed that discovery process up.
It depends really. Things like that can lose its value without the internal lineart, which gives that internal knotted look. It's best to try it out at the very least.
In terms of mapping it out, click and drag a node at each point where a line is going into another. You want these nodes to be sharp nodes with independent handles as they will show separation between different objects. In order to do this, while clicking and dragging, hold Alt, which will give you independent control of the other handle. Once you have moved it to where you want, let go of the left mouse click and Alt at the same time before starting the next node. Rinse and repeat for each part. only add a dependent node in between if you need to.
Pretty good, but here are some things:
1. You got some color peeking. Always place a high contrasting background behind your image, and look for where that coloring peeks through. You also have the bottom of the legs peeking a little. Make sure you're exporting as an artboard (which it looks like from your filename). If you are, make sure that you move the fill past the artboard so that it cuts off properly (or snap it to the artboard using Smart Guides; see below).
2. You have some areas that are not properly snapped to others, such as the hair fill going into the face on the neck and the collar, as well as in another couple places. Turn on Smart Guides (Ctrl+U) and use it to help snap nodes onto other objects while moving nodes with the Direct Selection Tool (A). Turn it off by pressing Ctrl+U again, since it will only cause headaches if left on for anything else.
3. The hair lacks curvature at the tips. You want the tips of the hair flowing in a certain direction at all times, instead of flat and stale. Use the handles more at the tips to help achieve this.
4. The buttons are fairly faded. A good trick to fix the coloring is to select one of the buttons, open the Appearance panel, shift click the Fill icon box, click the drop down on the top right, and click the HSB scale. Then add Saturation or reduce Brightness to alter the coloring. I reduced Brightness by 4 to make it darker (next to top button).
5. You picked a good skin color within the appropriate range, but for future reference, keep skin colors within these values H: 25-35, S: 15-24, B: 95-100. Less Saturation means paler skin, and more means a richer yellow skin. Depending on the character, you may want one to be paler or richer.
Fixed everything. The hair didn't have a lot of curvature in the screenshot I used, but I made some modifications to it.
I just want to make sure I'm still doing alright
I feel confident enough about not having color peeking to just post this version unless asked otherwise, but I dunno about my general color choice/composition
If you insist on it.
Original's here: http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/steins-gate/images/a/ac/Mayuri_full_profile.png/revision/latest?cb=20141208214137
I would hardly consider what is standard practice to be called insisting. There is no reason to post a vector, something infinitely scalable, to a resolution like 1080P. It also makes little sense to not post a high resolution transparent, considering not everyone is going to like the background of your choosing.
Anyway, the only thing your image lacks is proper hair curvature. Many of your hair tips are straight or dull. Always curve the tips of hair in a certain direction, depending on the original. Never let them stay straight. It will not look good. One other thing is skin color. It is a little too dark. Go to your HSB scale, and keep the ranges between these values: H: 25-35, S: 15-24, B: 95-100). In your case, increasing brightness (which is at 92) to something between 95-100 should do the trick.
I run an old-ass version of Inkscape, so I don't actually have an HSB scale, just an HSL where lightness varies from 0 to 255
I totally did miss some of the hair curvature in the first place, so thank you for that, and this does confirm that I haven't been great at skin tones which I was afraid of because they're so variable even within the same image
I don't use Inkscape, so it may only have an HSL scale. I can't help you in that specific case. Illustrator probably also works differently. Hue goes between 0-360, and both Saturation and Brightness are percentage based and go from 0-100.
Fixed the things that were mistakes. The hair was changed in a few parts intentionally, mostly on that bottom left area where the original had a chunk of hair which vanished. When I modified that I left out that curl because the curve of the hair was changed. As for wobbles where cloth overlaps hair, I don't think that every area should be smooth, and there are several parts that are wobbly to show loose cloths/folds.
Sure, but you need to be able to distinguish what was intentional, and what was an error from the artist. You can't keep every little wobble from an unsteady hand of the artist. When you convert it to a vector, those errors that were originally hidden are far too visible. This is why it is generally important to get the major curves to curve to that of the original, and keep the areas between the major curves smooth. What you did on the brown part of the shirt right next to this is actually exactly what you're looking for in a vector. Keep it smooth like that.
You're still missing the white fuzzy part of the glove on her left arm You're also missing a piece of the neck to the left of the face. That piece of hair under her arm that I mentioned in the previous image was unchanged. You always want the tip to be thinner than the shape leading into it, not fatter. The rest is good enough.
I would love if someone could make a minimalistic version of this.
I'm far from an expert, but I think the contrast between the colours of the vector and the background have a big impact on that. Try using bold contrasts to draw more attention to the vector :)
I know that, this is my most recent on that's finished. I might change the face though.
Well sure, when I have the time.
>this also came from a vector
There is no, "when you have time". Your first goal every time you start an image should be to use reverse image searching to find the best quality image. It is far too often that someone will request a shitty vector trace, or an inferior original image. If you work from those said images, you create a poorer quality image than if you had found the original (or a better vector trace) from the beginning.
In terms of critique, you are still using far too many nodes. Do not place unnecessary nodes in the middle of long curves, especially in hair. Only use the handles at the end points and V tips and see how far you can extend those handles. Do not overextend those handles so that they become flat at those areas. Only pull them so far as that they maintain their curvature. Only then should you add a node in between, if needed.
For future reference, it's color peeking. We aren't reaching any high points in our lives.
Stuck a background on a vector, pretty minimal.
Well, I gave it a shot. My first minimalist work. Any tips or things that I missed?
I'm not the anon who usually gives feedback, but i'll give it a shot.
As another anon pointed out, you should really increase the brightness for this, first of all.
As for criticism, it's hard to say without the original image. If you could provide it that would help.
Overall it's a nice job. The hair, especially to the right of the headphones, is sloppy. Always think of a direction you want to flow in- and try to avoid making the strands look too fat. You don't really want strands of hair/bangs to be traingles, they should almost always be curved and "flowing" somewhere. This takes some practice to get down. Take you time here, as bad hair can really throw off an otherwise good image.
You have some areas where you look like you have layers overlayed incorrectly. I circled these in red.
Some places looks like you used too many anchor points, making it look wobbly, or very sharp edges. I have those in green.
The feathers don't look very "feathery". Try to get a more precise shape on them rather than just blobs. You can get a bit creative here, or be very precise in how you vector them.
Might I add, the hand outstretched is very well done IMO. I always find them tricky but you did a good job with it.
Overall it's a good piece. Some parts are just a little rushed. Good work.
I can see why you fucked up this badly; the line art means that the borders between colors is hard to judge. What you should do is pick a consistent method, inside or outside of the lines, and stick with it for color borders, otherwise you get unsightly gaps and misalignment.
Your shading never lines up with the edges, I've spotted gaps EVERYWHERE. Did you do them as a separate thing after you finished the vector? You shouldn't eye the borders like that, you won't get it right. Honestly, if it's this bad I recommend just not doing shading until you get a better hang of it.
Your handling of the stripes is erratic, causing misalignment with every edge possible. They should flow along the edge as if they were a part of the sweater. Make the border, then using clipping masks or scissor tool to create the stripes later.
Thanks anon, i'll look into it. I've already increased the brightness and i'll look into my other mistakes later today. Here is the original image:
So, I was wondering if I did the glasses would they needed done with shadows or would it be fine to just go into one solid color?
If you are aiming for minimalism, I'd recommend you don't use shadows at all unless it's absolutely required in order to keep the shape (like fingers or layers of hair).
In this case, I don't think the hair, clothes, skin or glasses require shadows. You can perfectly see the shapes without them.
If you are aiming for vector without lines, then yes. You have shadows everywhere else already. Keep consistent.
Requesting this please
Did Yume from Grimgar because she's a QT.
The sword is a little retarded but the more I messed with it the worse it got.
Ok, I'm doing detailed and minimalist versions then.
I asked my girlfriend for some help because an image I wanted some help with a Rui Ninomiya wallpaper I found because it was 1280x720, and my desktop is 3440x1440.
Here's the original
Here it is with a it a little bit less "Minimalist"
I would be very grateful if you can do a minimalist wallpaper of this.
I'd like something with Shidare Hotaru from Dagashi Kashi, I'm gonna post two pictures, but any other minimalistic pictures from it is appreciated too.
Or this would be appreciated to be done into minimalistic ones.
I'd make the skin color brighter. Also there's alot of rough edges, doesn't seem like it was exported correctly.
Did you make this? Because it's horrendous. Too many nodes.
Change up the colors, make everything slightly brighter. The original's colors just make it look bland. Also I'd recommend tracing out the neck and changing it to a slightly different tone to avoid it meshing with the face. Trace in the hair tie, that pouch on her back is the wrong color and the black that goes through the pouch has no continuity as it goes through the pouch (did you do them as separate parts). The bend on the strap should be rounder with no corners.
This wasn't exported well, I'm seeing jagged edges everywhere. There's a clear color gap where her dress meets her arm. The lens flare on her glasses needs to go, we can't tell what it is when you vector it. Collarbones look off here, try and decrease their presence. Get rid of the lines that cut through the hair and alter the bends on the lower right hair to have no observable corners. Change the skin color too, it's too pink when its minimalized.
Use IQDB to find higher quality versions.
This is a little rough because I'm busy today, and the purple fluff had like a million anchor points. The stars look like cancer and I need to figure out my shadows better for the arm.
Will probably post a fix along with any other stuff people point out when I have the time. But here's a version if anyone wants to throw in their 2 cents.
not the OR, but would there be any way that, when you come back to this, you could do the top of the hat? I know this goes more into the realm of improv than minimalising, but here is a reference image to what the top of Kagari's hat looks like.
Better image, also could I get a minimalist of both please.
Sorry, anon. I thought I posted this. The image was a little weird (some of the background was left behind on the edges, making it a little hard to vector). I wasn't brave enough to go for the gradient, but I can upload the .ai file if anyone wants to play with it.
I could try. I'm not so great at going off-model but I'll give it a shot.
As for minimizing the second image, I can do that. I might not finish tonight, depends on how long I keep procrastinating. Do you want them both in the same image as shown, or separate?
Ah. I'm the Rui one. The gap is probably because the minimalist was made by my girlfriend removing the lines on the version beforehand.
I don't have access to the other files, so sorry bout it.
Hey all, currently making stuff for my phone, and I'm really liking how I have it, just wanted to add more Guilty Gear Characters. I randomly found the one i used for >>1878965
in an old pack that was uploaded here forever ago, going to look in to making my own but if anyone has character vectors lying around please let me know. I've been searching for them on google but so far I've only found other peoples wallpapers and I honestly don't like their backgrounds
No problem. That one was actually a lot of fun, and really wasn't too complicated either.
Sorry I'm taking so long to deliver. Had a busy week. I've finished Kasumi, and I'll start on Kagari in a bit. If you notice any mistakes let me know and I'll include a fixed version with Kagari tomorrow.
There are a number of issues. For the hat, you have some odd aliasing between the yellow and red. If you have to colors stacked on top of each other, the color below will peek through. Hide the coloring underneath to avoid that. For a couple areas of the hair, try to curve the tips more to give the hair more direction. For the bear eyes, make one with the circle tool, and copy it over to the other eye so they stay consistent. For the stars, use the star tool, and copy it to the others to keep consistency. For the X mark, use the rectangle tool, and copy it to the others to keep consistency. The rest of the small errors are a number of color peeking areas, or lines going over the edge. Use a high contrasting background to help spot these errors better.
Both your fingers and legs suffer from noodle finger/leg. You remove a lot of articulation from both areas, causing a very bland and boring shape. For the fingers, go back and make sure to show more bending at the knuckles and folds, and make sure you show emphasis of the nails from the original. This will make the tips look less flat then you currently have them. For the legs, show the knees bending more. It is okay for the knee to be more abrupt. You want to show the kneecap protruding out, as it is more accurate to real life.
>For the stars, use the star tool, and copy it to the others to keep consistency. For the X mark, use the rectangle tool, and copy it to the others to keep consistency.
That was so much easier and looks so much better. I feel like an idiot for trying to trace it by hand...
>For the fingers, go back and make sure to show more bending at the knuckles and folds, and make sure you show emphasis of the nails from the original. This will make the tips look less flat then you currently have them. For the legs, show the knees bending more. It is okay for the knee to be more abrupt. You want to show the kneecap protruding out, as it is more accurate to real life.
I noticed this. I felt like I was "following it" but couldn't quite figure out what was wrong. This helped a lot. Thanks.
I know this isn't perfect- the buttons on the hand still need some work. Do you have any suggestions regarding that?
Nah, you're good. So long as you use the circle tool, you're fine. It's not too important to mimic those perfectly, since they lose their importance without the lineart. You do have a little yellow color peeking by her right hand pinky. Also, for the rectangle shapes, keep them as two separate shapes, and align them as best as possible. Then, select both shapes. If you are doing this in Illustrator, a panel at the top should appear with align tools. Select Vertical Align Center, and Horizontal Align Center. This should keep the two rectangles centered properly. If you are doing this in another program, then you just need to find the align tools wherever they may be.
Not minimalism, but I went ahead and did a full vector of it as well. You can get it here if you want: >>1879705
>You do have a little yellow color peeking by her right hand pinky
Well, it seems there's always something. I think this is the "final" version of this one.
Here's a rough draft for Kagari. I'm still deciding on whether or not to shade the skirt like her chest.
I'm going to clean up the "off-model" sections (the shoe in particular looks really bad, and the hems of her robes could use some work) when it's not 3am and I'm sober.
I'd appreciate it if any anons want to critique or point out mistakes.
An image is never completed anon. It is merely abandoned.
The curvature for a lot of your hair is lacking. Do not let the tips of the hair get fat. They need to stay thin and curve in a certain direction. Also, make sure that it smoothly goes from thick at the endpoint to thin at the sharp point. Don't allow the thickness to thin at the middle and reach a greater thickness before thinning to the sharp point (this is most evident on some of the bangs on the forehead). Any strand of hair ending outside of an object should end as a sharp node, and not circular or flat. For the hair on the right below the hat, draw it as one shape so you can get the hair to flow properly and not be disconnected. You can unite it later if you want.
You need to show better contrast between some coloring. For instance, the main skin color on the face does not contrast enough with the shadow below on the neck. Select the shadow on the neck, and go to the HSB scale. Increase Saturation and reduce Brightness to make the shadow darker and richer to contrast better. Do the same for the beige coat, so that it contrasts with the white better. For the yellow stripe, keep both sides of the sfill consistent. Make sure the nodes and handles are kept parallel on both sides to achieve this. You have some color peeking on her left arm, and you forgot to cut out a shape on her left hand. You also have some color peeking to the right of her face on the beige coat.
I fixed up what you mentioned, changed some colors, and added shadows to the skirt.
I'm not 100% on the shadows. It looks a little strange with them but if I don't then image loses it's depth and the skirt just looks like a flat jagged mess.
The shoes still look pretty bad. Unfortunately, I'm not really sure how to fix that.
I'll start on this in a little bit. Might take me some time to finish though.
>I'm not 100% on the shadows. It looks a little strange with them but if I don't then image loses it's depth and the skirt just looks like a flat jagged mess.
That is the problem with minimalism. Since you remove most of the shadows that give it depth, the image comes out flat. You can add shadows, but the more you add shadows the closer you get to creating a full vector without the lineart or eyes. You basically have to like the idea of the image being flat with minimal or no shadows, in order to be okay continuing to do it.
>The shoes still look pretty bad. Unfortunately, I'm not really sure how to fix that.
Just keep them smooth and rounded. It's not too important to get it right since it is minimalist anyway.
>You basically have to like the idea of the image being flat with minimal or no shadows, in order to be okay continuing to do it.
I understand how minimalism works, it's just that it look "wrong" when it was just one color. I don't think the shadows particularly detract from the minimalism in this case. Is "no shadows" that strict of a rule?
It isn't a strict rule. You just have to keep aware that if you add all the shadows from the original with the base colors, that it isn't as minimalist anymore. It looks less unique because you are getting closer to what it looks like in the original, without the face or lineart.
Can you do this? And if so, thank you.
Not bad, but here are some things:
1) You are fairly wobbly with your lineart. Use less nodes and more handles so you can keep the lineart smooth between nodes, especially for areas of the hair and clothing.
2) Some of your hair lacks curvature. Always be trying to curve the hair in a certain direction, so it does not appear flat.
3) The black stripes on the white part of the shirt are very inconsistent. Draw all three lines as separate shapes, and make sure you keep the nodes and handles parallel in placement and handles at all times.
4) Avoid using sharp nodes at the tips of fingers unless you can clearly identify a nail from the original. Otherwise, keep the tips smooth.
I love these minimalism ones. this is my current wallpaper.
So I want to have the three seperate parts (the dividing band, the decorated part and the rest of the stockings) on the stockings, but keep the shape of the leg.
How best to proceed?
Do the leg base color first, and then add the other two on top. Use the Shape Builder tool from the tutorial to make it easy to clip anything outside of the leg base color directly onto it.
Oh man, this makes everything way easier
So for clothes I should just do the outline of the apperal first, and then do that shape builder thing?
christ that saves me about 50% of my time spent on this shit
Yep. Always do whats on the bottom first, and then add things on top and cut out the excess with the Shape Builder tool. Since you don't have any lineart to hide the coloring underneath, this is the easiest way to do it.
You can Ctrl+Left Click the eye icons to put them in Outline mode individually to see underneath, or double click your Model layer (the layer with the original image) and set it as a Template, allowing you to press Ctrl+Y (Outline mode) without it effecting the original image.
I don't know who this character is, and reverse image search failed to give me a character name for a reference, but even so, this image is very doable, even from the Twitter post. To make the lineart not look so wobbly, you need to take into consideration using sharp nodes with independent handles. Anytime you draw a fill and meet a separate line, create a sharp node with independent handles. This will allow you to show separation of objects and is very important in minimalist art, as you don't have the lineart to do it for you. Otherwise, everything will meld together if you only use smooth nodes with dependent handles, creating many blobs of fills.
As for the coloring, I just did whatever I wanted with it, but it is still pretty simple. I wanted the coat to be a blueish-gray coloring, so I used the HSB scale, moved Hue to a value that got me to the blue range, increased Saturation to a small value to give it a tint of blue, and then decreased Brightness to darken it, but kept it at a reasonable level so it stayed gray. For the hair I wanted a purpleish-blue coloring, so I did similar steps above to reach those values. For the skin, I kept the values within these ranges: H: 25-35, S: 15-24, and B: 95-100.
Again, all of these things are very simple to do, and there really isn't much difficulty due to the original, as it is very reasonable. You just need to practice, and understand certain things that are required when working on minimalist images.
Eh, I tried.
fucking ripples in the clothes make it look like she has some weird ass disease with tumors everywhere
Apparently I'm still using the 0.48.4.0 version of Inkscape from like 2012, so I don't have a ton of fancy shit
If you use shape builder you apparently need to watch out for shit like this guy did >>1881066 where he totally fucked up where the skin on the legs should end
I just work by drawing the top parts of things first, then moving downward, all on a single layer, with a 0.01 line width
It takes time but it ends up looking pretty okay
Do each area separately, such as hair, clothing, skin etc. and layer them appropriately. If there are any shadows/highlights you need to layer on top, draw them over the previous shapes and use the Shape Builder tool to delete the excess out, if needed. Follow what is said here >>1880889 to take advantage of Outline mode. Use Smart Guides (Ctrl+U) if you need to snap objects to others. Note that both features (excluding Outline mode) mentioned above are only available in Illustrator.
Is it possible to make some "ok" looking vectors in Photoshop, I mean, I know true vectorization doesn't exist in Photoshop, but is it possible to make things easy like in the Illustrator?
Someone on /wg/ asked for a vector of Peach. As no one was willing to do it, I decided to give a try, even though I never tried doing vectors before.
It was fun and all, but something that pissed me off was working with tons of layers.
For example: In some areas Layer1 was under Layer2 and in other areas Layer1 was over Layer2
At some point the layering started to get a little too complex to properly overlap them and I didn't want to create new layers for those specific spots because I was already working with 35 layers. I then decided to be a lazy fuck and instead of overlapping the layers properly, I simply "excluded" the areas where the layers were overlapping each other.
As I was working on a transparent background, I didn't notice anything at the time, but after looking at the project over a black background, I saw tons of color gaps in those spots where I subtracted the layers from each other.
After looking at the tutorial in the OP I notice that in the Illustrator he only used 3 layers in total and just 1 layer for all the "shapes". I also noticed that instead of creating a fuck ton of layers he simply "sent shapes to the back of other shapes".
So, the big question is, is there any way to work with only one layer in Photoshop by sending the filled paths I drew with the Pen Tool to the back?
I'm probably being too dense here, but I don't own the Illustrator do these things, and I wanted to do some vectors with some of my anime screenshots.
Do not use Photoshop. Photoshop is a raster based program, meaning you aren't creating vectors. That means the image is not infinitely scalable. Considering the pen tool is very similar in Illustrator, it is best to pirate it and use it instead.
Layers are very simple. You only need two layers minimum. One later for the original image, and another layer for the shapes. You can then move shapes to the back and front by selecting them and pressing Ctrl+Shift+[ or Ctrl+Shift+]. I have worked with images where I have had over 100 layers, taking advantage of sublayers, so it actually isn't that hard.
It's just that in the Illustrator things seemed way easier, but I never used it.
I guess I will pirate it and then look for some basic tutorials.
Just one more question, the shapes in the Illustrator seemed like, separated objects, after you draw several shapes in the same layer can you come back later and edit them again the way you like, without them merging with each other?
Yes, every time you create a shape in a vectoring program, you create a separate path that can be edited. You can select these separate paths and adjust nodes and handles with the direct selection tool (A) or move them behind other objects. It will all make sense when you watch some tutorials.
I did my first (and only) vector in gimp. It was a huge pain in the ass moving shapes around in layers, but the outcome was okay. I downloaded a copy of Inkscape so I could try my hand at another one, but I'm starting to think I should find a copy of illustrator.
Here's my vector, if someone wants to critique it!
Would be appreciated if someone could remove the background and text.
Can I have a minimal of this is 2590 X 1080 ?
It's cut off too much. It won't make a good vector.
If you just want one of her there's on in the archive.
I finally installed the Illustrator for the first time, and this thing is amazing. I loved the Shape Builder and Curvature Tools.
As my first attempt at vectoring I decided to try something simple with no shading or complex stacking.
If someone is willing to point out problems, it would be great.
Not bad for a first vector, but here are some things:
1) For the two bit strands of hair, do not let the handles criss-cross each other. Keep the handles on their respective sides to allow for the tips to taper properly.
2) The hair at the top of the forehead lacks curvature, and always use sharp nodes with independent handles at the tips. Use those handles to curve the hair in a certain direction so they do not appear straight and flat.
3) Keep the types of nodes you use for certain objects consistent with the other. For instance, on one side of the hat, you use a sharp node, yet on the other you used a smooth node. For the eyebrows you use a flat two node shape for one, and a sharp node for the other. Pick one and keep it consistent for both.
4) For the skin color, keep them within these values using the HSB scale: H: 25-35, S: 15-24, and B: 95-100. Saturation has the greatest effect, with the lower end giving a more pale look, and the higher giving a richer look. Play with it depending on the character.
5) It does look like you're using a couple too many nodes in some areas, causing lumpy lineart. Use handles more, and avoid placing nodes if you don't need them. The hand also looks very weird, but I don't have the original to verify. You also got a little bit of color peeking under the neck.
As an extra note, if you do ask for a critique, always post the original. Minimalism images tend to differ too far from the original, meaning I can't use reverse image searching to find it like I could for normal vectors.
Fantastic, you guys have eagle eyes.
Got it all, really constructive observations, I'm gonna work on that.
Now two things:
1. I also think her hand looks kinda weird in there, I tried to follow the original too much. And I also think I overused nodes in some other parts too. Seeing this (and like you already suggested), then it's ok to deviate from the original a little bit and use less nodes to make things look smoother? I just want to be sure of that.
2. Do you guys check the Interlaced option when exporting the project to a PNG? I know what interlace does, but I fail to see its benefits, especially when it increases the file size.
1) To an extent, yes. If something looks like messy lineart from the original, then you can smooth it out. However, that is not always the case. Sometimes the only issue you're having is that you have misused then nodes or handles. Here is the general rule. Use smooth nodes when working along a single line. Only use a sharp node with independent handles when you meet another line that would normally be separated in a full vector. The only exceptions of course are for hair or the ends of certain things like eyebrows or clothing. For smooth nodes, extend the handles out further. The close they are to the node, the sharper they will be. You do not want to extend them too far to the point that the fill begins to flatten at the node, so there is a balance you need to play with.
2) The only advantage Interlaced has it will load the image faster. When you see an entire image load, but looks pixelated, and then after a few passes, becomes clear, then that is Interlaced. It increases the filesize and does not help with quality in any way. Instead, leave it unchecked so it exports as Progressive, which will load in bars from top to bottom. Also, make sure you are exporting with "Type Optimized (Hinted)" instead of the default "Art Optimized (Supersampling)". Type Optimized provides better aliasing than Art Optimized.
Great work on the tip of her fingers and on her elbow, it will take time and practice until I'm able to nail handles right like that. I'm still relying too much on the Curvature tool, and I'm Not using the handles enough.
I loved the skin color tip, makes things so much easier. Before that I was simply using the Eyedropper to pick a color from the source image and then adjusting it manually on the RGB scale without even looking at the numbers.
Sometimes when I use the Shape Builder I'm getting color peeking in the places where the shapes got separated. Even though everything looks perfect in the Illustrator, when I export the project I notice some color peeking, so I'm avoiding the Shape Builder as much as possible for now.
Anyway, I started working on another picture to do some practicing, but I can't quite put my finger on the shading, any thoughts?
(choose what color you think suits it best)
You should definitely not be using the Curvature tool at all. Stick to the Pen tool (P), and give every single node a handle, either dependent, or independent (always on both sides for this case). Click and drag with the pen tool to give it dependent handles, and click and drag and hold Alt to turn it into a sharp point with independent handles.
Not sure what you're doing with the Shape Builder tool. The only time you need to use it is when you want to delete excess that is outside of the entire shape, which means there should be no color peeking. The only kind of color peeking you can get is if two shapes are directly on top of each other, which occurs when you export as Type Optimized (Hinted). This requires you to select the shape underneath and move the nodes inwards to avoid that. That is very easy to do, considering the Shape Builder tool places nodes exactly at the spot. Otherwise, there should be no other kind of color peeking.
Shading is up to you. I don't have much patience for minimalism images, so I tend to always do the bare minimum, which is just flat shading.
I'm wondering if this can be done as a 1920x1080 minimalistic?
Here you go, Anon. Hope you enjoy it, feel free to check for errors. Picture was complicated to use, so there may be some..
Remember, feedback is always appreciated
Alright, did a remake. Hopefully there are no mistakes.