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WIP - Work in Progress General

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No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw [Open]

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM [Open]

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU [Open]

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo [Open]
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Panther, I need Charlie Zone status. Report!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzWP-C8oDPw [Open]

>Previous Threads:
>>52552139 → #
>>52526956 → #
>>52495833 → #
>>52472701 → #
>>52424119 → #
>>52401943 → #
>>52371093 → #
>>52349956 → #
>>52329482 → #
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>>52605398
Opinions please, aiming for system shockish skitarii
>>
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So, before I go any further with painting or making more like this, what do you guys think of my first actual attempt at putting these together?

The Citadel glue didn't work on any of the metal pieces I had, so I'm gonna do more of these plastic ones for now.

I figured with all the leftover plastic from their casings, I could use it to make sort of a rubble-like terrain in a few weeks.
>>
>>52606602
>The Citadel glue didn't work on any of the metal pieces I had, so I'm gonna do more of these plastic ones for now.
If you're using Citadel PLASTIC Glue, then it ain't really surprising it didn't really work on anything other than plastic. Other than that, your little laddie looks prety good. I really like the look of the old DEldar models.
>>
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Working out some stuff on my scouts
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>>52606711
>chaos helmets
>chaos pauldrons
>Ork backpack

Which chapter is this, anon?
>>
>>52606602
>Using a model as part of a base
D-did it break?
>>
>>52606711
The fuck is that supposed to be
>>
>>52606742
>>52606804
Loyalists through and through
>>
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Catching up on painting some kitbash plague marines. These guys have been on hold forever and now there's new death guard on the way.
Woe is me
>>
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Still working on my Van Saar gang using scions, its working ok-ish
>>
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>>52606854
Also some blight king plague marine conversions that I am losing faith in.
I need to cover those nurgly nipple, but I don't want to bulk them up much more

Sorry for potato cam
>>
>>52606891
I'd give them combi bolters an put them on 40mm bases.

Works better at termies.
>>
>>52606930
Yeah, I debated it. They stand about a half head above a normal marine and I have a few janky fine cast marines that are a little shorter. My game plan is to have them hang out with my lord
Or I'll hold off until the new release and see if it's worth completing them to actually use
>>
>>52606891
Just wait a month mate. The DG release is upon us.
>>
>>52606995
>see if it's worth completing them to actually use
Custom shit is always fun

I converted up some DV chosen to fill my plague marines guard, between those, the old metals, FW conversion kits and the new line I might have a army without a single dupe.
>>
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Painting Greyfax, beautiful model but..

>Recess detail on the black.

WHY IS THIS A THING!?

I just can't make this look good no matter how hard I try.

On a side note, anyone got a good guide on painting black cloth? Not a big fan of how mine has turned out.
>>
>>52607074
Paint dark blue, shade black.
>>
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Daily progress update. Brightened up the blue armor. Time to fix my gold and then it's highlight city.

I could use some advice today - Duncan recommends cleaning the mistakes on gold details with liberator gold as well as doing the edge highlighting in liberator. Im concerned that the white gold will be at odds with the rest of the warm gold. Does it end up evening out when the main gold bits are edged?
>>
>>52607048
>>52607043
>>52606995
>>52606891
>>52606854
Is doing nurgle bikers as horse riders possible?
>>
>>52607111
Brighter edges help it stand out more. As long as you do it thin enough it shouldn't contrast too much.

In the meantime, you should really touch up those flames, man.
>>
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And there's the butt. Im getting excited that he's starting to look legit.
>>
>>52607111
Anon it looks 1,000,000 times better than it did last night.

But fuck off with the 'daily progress' bullshit.
>>
>>52607121
Yeah. I have some other dudes with fire bits, I was gonna do theirs and the two braziers first to test some tactics then come back to it. Im not happy with it but I'm very concerned with making it worse.
>>
>>52607137
>wip thread
>fuck off with your wip

Not that anon, and nah you first m8
>>
>>52607120
Well the issue is that they'd be nearly twice as tall, but it's possible
>>
>>52607137
I don't mean to spam. Im trying to stay on track and make sure I have someone check me if I'm fucking up along the way.
>>
>>52607218
You're fine, bud. It's called a WIP thread for a reason.
>>
>>52607241
>It's called a WIP thread for a reason.
Bloke must've been from /40k/general, seeing as all they do over there is complain about 40k... and the general, assuming that /WIP/ is for complaining about WIP is an easy mistake.
>>
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Had an idea for an Eldar army - very stylised, going for a Sin City or Schindler's List sort of look. All black and white, with one part of the model bright red for contrast. This is what I've done so far just messing around, what do you lads think?
>>
>>52607320
You should be even more dramatic with the darker parts, and I'd so some shading on the red cloth too.
>>
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>>52607320
>>dem shiny black helmets
I dig it. Cool scheme for wraiths. I can kinda imagine them standing like statues until roused by someone unlucky.
>>
>>52607320
Idea is solid, but i'd work some contrast in on the bodies themselves, maybe black soul stones or sharper white highlights.

As is they look like you primed white, started the loincloth, varnished the helmets and then left.
Looks unfinished rather than stylised.
>>
>>52607346
Yep, definitely needs deeper shading. The red cloth is just a basecoat and a wash at the moment, need to find a way to fit in in with the rest of the model.

>>52607377
Thank you, they do look a bit stony. I put it down to my poor blending.

>>52607402
Yeah, they're still very WIP. I think if I go back in, edge highlight with pure white and then shade the recesses with a pure black it'll look a little better. The black soulstones is a good idea as well. I also need to get the transitions on the greys smoother, they're pretty patchy atm.
>>
Looking for advice on painting skin tones other than white. I usually use Cadian Fleshtone > wash with Reikland > drybrush/highligh with Cadian to bring the color back up and it usually works pretty well. but I've got some models that I want to do black and asian skin tones too. How do I do that without it looking like shit?
>>
>>52607455
Ih an done those specifically, maybe work on the shield runes, dunno how but if can make them pop more that'd do great.

Be sure not to make all the stones black n glossy though, too much'll take away the impact.
>>
>>52607484
dark brown, purple wash, layer brown, highlight with a light brown, I used dryad bark with highlights of gorthor brown for my dudes
>>
>>52607137
Dude, fuck you. this is a /wip/ thread. if you arent willing to look at WORK IN PROGRESS models, FUCK OFF.
>>
>>52607218
youre good bro.
>>
>>52607484
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ukcg7vS-GTE
>>
>>52607556
>>52607719
awesome thanks!

kinda want that Necron hoodie
>>
Starting to paint/assemble my ghost ark tomorrow... been putting it off because I've heard it can be a pain in the butt, and its my first vehicle. Any advice on how to get motivated on daunting or intimidating projects?
>>
>>52607811
Can't help you much with the motivation, but it might be a good idea to keep a few rubberbands or something like that handy.
>>
>>52607811
Make sure you do it in sub assemblies to give yourself less work, my dude.
>>
>>52607811
Make a plan.

Look the instructions over thoroughly.

Note what'll be hard to get at and clean up every damn mold line beforehand, it'll be a pain to do after and will nearly always have you chipping and scuffing other bits once assembled.

Dry assembly, fit shit together before even looking at the glue.
>>
What kit(s) can I get a good book or scrolls for a renegade Librarian from? Also, I hate the look of psychic hoods; any suggestions for an alternative appearance to them?
>>
>>52608182
Flagellants my man. You get a bunch of books, scrolls and hanging keys/hammers/skulls to use and the kit itself is fairly reasonable for 10 guys in robes.
>>
>>52607137
Youre fucking autistic, you twat
>>
>>52607137
>But fuck off with the 'daily progress' bullshit.
>In a WIP thread
kill thyself.
>>
For the life of me I cannot find anything that can be modified into seeker missiles for my custom Remora drone.

I'm also having trouble thinking of ideas on how to make my regular Crisis suit look more like a Commander. I have such a big fucking mental block right now, I can't even come up with a pose. Doesn't help that I've had a really shit day neither. Any help?
>>
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>>52608489
>For the life of me I cannot find anything that can be modified into seeker missiles for my custom Remora drone.
From looking at the image that I pulled up on google they are pretty boring looking regular missiles.
If you have any IG player around maybe you can get some spares from a heavy weapons crew?
Failing that you can get munitions in various sizes from Anvil Industries and Zinge industries last I checked.
Another option would be to put a plastic rod into a drill machine and sand one side into a cone shape.

>I'm also having trouble thinking of ideas on how to make my regular Crisis suit look more like a Commander. I have such a big fucking mental block right now, I can't even come up with a pose. Doesn't help that I've had a really shit day neither. Any help?
You can steal some ideas from other conversions. Or check the Tau commander from the first few Dawn of War video games out.
Usually adding a few extra antenna or optic of some kind or a different headshape work well.

After writing that I spent the last ten minutes looking for this pdf.
This is an old conversion guide on building the old DoW commander.
Maybe this helps you.

For poses I'd just looks at some artwork. Heroically pointing the direction or jumping into the fray is the usual.
For tau you could also go with super dynamic evasive maneuvers.
>>
>>52606891
where u get that dread from? i know its forgeworld buts its OOP
>>
>>52608774
I got it a few years ago off ebay, it's probably a recast, but it isn't noticeable if it is
>>
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>>52608700
That's beautiful, I might actually build that.

Thank you very much for your help, I'll give your options a good look-see. For the commander you mentioned extra bits. I have about 4 of those objective markers you get in stealthsuit boxes I was going to use ala wings of sorts. Got an old commander metal head too. Want to add some armour plates perhaps, simple slabs of plasticard? Like the ones on his legs. Now I'm thinking maybe.. one leg propped up and guns akimbo, laying into the enemy?
>>
>>52609008
>Now I'm thinking maybe.. one leg propped up and guns akimbo, laying into the enemy?
Yeah that could work.

I also wound this in one of my old folders. It's German, but may still be of some use to you. There's a page with commander conversion in there too.
>>
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Thoughts?
>>
>>52609100
Brilliant! Especially the reposing instructions. Don't need to know german when the pictures tell me everything I need to know.

I'm going to use a plain ork shoulderpad to do a gorget too. Hopefully with some bulk, he'll look the part. I'm not using any other crisis suits in the army but I want him to look like a modified, higher ranking crisis suit regardless.
>>
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Whats your current project you have on hold but really want finished?
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>>52609258
I've got most of a deathwatch unit to bang out that I put on hold to work on the triumvirate characters. Stupid, sexy characters are just too fun to paint. How can veterans compare?
>>
>>52609258
My Helbrute. I wanna magnetize all of his guns before I finish assembling and painting him, but I'm just too busy to work on him lately and I don't even know where I can find magnets the right size. I'm hesitant to order them online because I can't hold them in my hand and see their size in comparison to my 'brute's weapon slots before I buy them.
>>
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Near as dammit finished, I might just varnish them as is. What think you?
>>
>>52609258
I got a pathfinder team I need to assemble but I gotta do some planning on how to go about it while making sure I can swap loadouts properly via magnetizing. I'm really dragging my heels on it
>>
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Spent about half an hour on this. It's my first time trying to use multiple color layers.
Used apple barrel paints.
C&c?
>>
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>>52609700
>>
>>52609674
>What think you?
Nice painting.
I feel like you missed an opportunity to vary the poses though.
I know they are snapfit, but at least a few arm swaps would have been possible.

Regardless, they look good. Just spruce up the bases and you're golden.
>>
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>>52609720
>>
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How's he looking, tg?
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>>52609674
>The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies.jpg
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>>52610154
Looks okay until you get to the helmet
Looks like you just glopped paint onto his face
>>
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>>52609258
>Whats your current project you have on hold but really want finished?

I just finished the Imperial Bastion these ladz will be standing on, but I have to put them on hold to finish a few replacement models for other squads first. Moments after this picture was taken, I found the Mk VI's missing rokkit chukka.
>>
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So my box of these guys just showed up.

The metal bits are okay, but they need a fuckload of trimming to stick on the plastic legs. The join is solid, though, not nearly as fiddly as the old GW skellies.
>>
>>52609258
Most of them. No workspace.

Got a partially assembled Knight, two Dreadnoughts, and 30 Marines of varying unit types to get together. I've run out of corks and, even more so, run out of storage space. And I have no actual workstation at the moment.
>>
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I have a D&D campaign starting next week as DM, and I'm working to paint a character mini for each of the players. I don't expect to have more than one ready for the first session, but here is my progress so far with the human ranger archer.

Sorry about the photo quality. Didn't want to drag out my DSLR for a quickie shot.
>>
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Started basecoating my conscripts
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(Almost) done, just needs the base. It ended too pink and the armor edges have too much contrast maybe and some lines are a bit thick so I'm thinking of a way to blend them with a wash or something a bit.
>>
>>52606804
Probably scouts...
...like he fucking said.
>>
>>52607137
Get the fuck out shitlord
>>
>>52606711
I like... some of these things... The drum mag is nice. The ammo belt is nice. The slit helms are a bit odd, but I could see a black templar neophyte type medieval theme there. I can see what you were going for with the shoulders, but they just look off.

The special helmet head (sigmarine?) looks pretty bad, IMO. Especially with the iron halo on his back behind it. What are you going for here?
>>
>>52609187
Too many plants for a FW. Thus, their scheme would match a world that once was. I like it, but just a consideration.
Maybe red insignia.
>>
Anyone got suggestions for how to get a pearly opalescent paintjob going?
>>
>>52609258
I've got about 40 sisters of battle I got off eBay that need to be stripped and painted along with three immolators and one exodus that need assembly
on the WHFB side I've got 100 or so Dark Elves sitting on sprues waiting to be assembled and painted
>>
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Still trying to get better. I think my brushes are shit quality, but might be I'm just shit too (I have really poor eyesight even with glasses so I think I'm laying on paint too thick because I don't see it build up)

I also need to build a light box
>>
>>52612303

You're the first other person I've seen with Fireteam: Zero stuff, good taste anon.
>>
>>52611900
You can cut out the hassel and buy some jacquard pearl ex powdered pigments and mix it with some clear coat.
>>
>>52612362
I got the warchest, so I figured I might as well start painting with them as I have 2 whole extra sets of each family of monsters that won't see play. They're amazing models, I love their aesthetics. Just hope I can get good enough that the play models will be of a good standard. The model doesn't look half bad in daylight.
>>
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>>52612430
And I forgot the pic. Excuse the crappy iPhone collage bullshit.
>>
>>52612401
Sweet, thanks anon.
>>
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Started and finished today. Grindin' em out.
>>
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Got some advice in the last thread about making my Guild Ball captain's hair look better. I think it came out pretty good
>>
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>>52612680
The original for reference. I guess I've never really done anything other than black or dark brown hair, so blonde was a little harder to figure out
>>
>>52612687
I recommend using perhaps a seraphim sepia wash on top of the blonde hair to give it some shading and depth. Or reikland fleshshade? Something along those lines.
>>
>>52609187
Maybe the pants could be a sort of dark reddish brown?
>>
>>52612680
That looks way better than last time you posted it, well done.
>>
>>52612680
>>52612708
Oh whoops - yep exactly what I wanted to see on the original!
>>
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Currently assembling some Wood Elf Eternal Guard and I wanted to get some feedback before I start cutting away at them.

The stock shield on the left has a silly swirl that looks like it would need to repaired after every battle so I was thinking of cutting it off and rounding the stump. I'd only need to cut 30 shields.

Would it be an improvement or should I leave them as is?
>>
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What's /tg/'s opinion on these guys? A bit pricy for the "good quality", but I'm toying with the idea of grabbing a few of the $15 ones for my active campaign.

Anyone tried to paint them afterwards? Only one I recall is the "sandy" posting a few WIP back.
>>
>>52612972
Elf shit is supposed to be stupid

If you still want to cut it, I suggest a diagonal cut against the first corner rather than that flat cut. Something appears to be tied to that protuberance so I suggest giving it more length to grow fat so the design doesn't appear as though that tie could easily slip off
>>
>>52613044
I've got 2 that my buddy bought and wants to paint. Haven't had a chance to sit down with them yet. I'll be honest, I don't think they're really worth it unless you REALLY want to make a mini for your character and have them looking EXACTLY the way you want instead of just using a more generic or slightly more inaccurate one.

He bought the cheapest quality option and they have a gritty, sandy texture to them and almost no detail. Like seriously, the faces are just a gritty flat area so I hope he didn't put much time into their expression.

I'm sure that the higher price options come out better quality, or at least they fucking better. That said I think they're too pricey for what you get. For $15 I could get a bunch of Reaper/Wizkids models and they're probably going to be the same quality as a single $30 mini
>>
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>>52612972
Made a couple of mock ups quickly for you anon
>>
I want to make a Iron Warriors dreadnought but it seems that FW doesnt sell those chaos naughts anymore :(

its a bummer, those things looked fantastic (way better than the helbrutes holy shit)
>>
Is there such a thing as too much wash and if yes, how to recognize it? I'm new to this whole thing.
>>
>>52613083
>>52613107
Thanks. Number 4 looks like it would make sense although I still may try to round it out.
>>
>>52613124
No probs anon, I prefer #2 actually but that may be my love of VC aesthetics coming through
>>
>>52609258
About 5k points of IG, but my airbrush nozzle broke.
>>
Basing with the models already on the base?
>>
>>52613299
I having this thought also for my FT:Z models. Thinking of using grout (as fuck GW technical paints for 300+ models) smeared on in irregular levels to give the sense of terrain. From there, paint, dry brush, add a few tuffs of flock and done.
>>
>>52613299
That's how it was done in the old days of "slotta" bases.
>>
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>>52613099
Yeah found the sandy photo in the archive before it lapsed.
What I'm worried about, but I really like my toon and not really an easy combination to find: gnome, tonfa, plate armor, etc.

just really got into painting recently (<5 done) but this seemed like a two-birds/one-stone situation.
>>
>>52613428
>toon
Really?
>>
>>52612303
I had the same problem anon. I got one of those lamps with a magnifier lense built in which helps a bit. Get an LED daylight bulb if you go down this route though, they're not as expensive these days and aren't as hot as a regular bulb.

You can get those funky helmets with lenses on too but I've not tried those.
>>
>>52606711
Brozouf /10
>>
>>52612680
>>52612687

Hey Anon, it was me who suggested avoiding nuclear yellow for the hair.

It looks multiple magnitudes better and really elevates the model, good job.
>>
>>52613521
I thought that too
>>
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>>52613044

I've bought several heroforge figures, so I'll comment. In general, their quality is okay if you get the grey plastic. It's not awful, it's not great. Their biggest downside is that even the grey plastic is fairly fragile, so don't drop them. Really, just get one if you really like the idea of making your own character. If that doesn't appeal, GW minis are nicer in the same price bracket, Kingdom Death is out there, etc. Image relevant, my monk I painted awhile back. It's pretty awesome if you DO want to make your own guy/girl though.
>>
>>52613438
Sorry i'm the kind of bastard that mixes vocabulary from one medium to another.

"my character"

:)
>>
>>52613575
The artifacting on that is still pretty bad though. At least most of the detail is there I suppose.

I think it's only worth buying from HeroForge if you really want one very very specific miniature and you shell out for their highest quality printing, otherwise you'd be better off converting something.
>>
>>52606890
Looks like he's late for a meeting.
>>
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>>52609674
that bone. Unf. Share recipe?
>>
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>>52607767
You can buy one if you want.
But like anything GW, it doesn't come cheap, or is that Musterbrand's fault?
Either way, expensive.

https://www.musterbrand.com/en/brands/warhammer/necron-2130.html
>>
>>52613791

Yea, but this was back when the grey plastic was still in its beta phase. It has improved since then, and the artificing is not terribly noticeable on the table. The grey plastic is the best you're going to get short of the $100 brass shit (though that is VERY nice)
>>
>>52613916
Yeah I saw that, not sure how brass paints up. It's a lot to spend but if I had a character I really loved or it was for an army centrepiece I'd probably get it. I forgot all about HeroForge, now I'm messing around with the character creator.
>>
>>52609258
My en tire Ork army.

Just can't settle on a colour scheme, so I'm stuck after priming
>>
How would you guys go about painting the scales on the Maw Krusha? Highlight each individual scale or dry brush?
>>
>>52613121
As with normal paints, too many washes or a wash too maded will obscure details.
It's really a matter of practice, but basically, if you can't see the colour underneath the wash when putting it in a crevice (example: washing a metal with Agrax, abcrevice gets so much wash it turns brown and you can't see the silver underneath) you probably put too much.
Don't let it pool, use your brush to move it around the model, or take some wash away with your brush if needed. Wash your brush, lightly touch the area where there is too much wash, and the excess will go straight into the brush, that you can wipe off or apply to another area.
>>
>>52611084
How come we always see your WIPs but never your finished products?
>>
>>52612649
Saw these in the AoS general. What's your process?
>>
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Took me months to do as I haven't painted in 15 years. Was fun as fuck, but feel like i'm missing stuff though.

Advice please lads. pls no bully :o(
>>
>>52614166
it looks more like random paint splotches than battle damage

less is more anon, go carefully and slowly, restrain yourself a bit
>>
>>52609674
I feel you should make the 'eyes' a bit more interesting. Solid red is just a big fucking letdown.
>>
>>52614193

T Hanks man, so I should really have about half of what I painted on?

Did get a bit carried away
>>
>>52614231
id just go about doing it different entirely

right now he's sorta oily and greasy; doesnt scream "worn weathered and beaten up"

focus that black on the edges, the things that would be scraped on, maybe a bullet hole here, a claw mark there for good measure

i dont normally work with yellow either, but i think some more silver instead of straight black would work for weathering, kinda like construction tools

just my 2c, but there is a wealth of information out there! dont take just my word for it, research as much as you can and see what other people have done as well!
>>
>>52609674
The paintjob looks nice, the bases are boring, but what troubles me most is the same pose over and over.
>>
Hey /wip/, long time lurker, first time poster (at least of any wip shit). This is the first model I've painted in 5+ years, and it's the first time I've ever used the base + layer + shade + highlight method (I used to just paint a color on black and call it a day).

Model is just for testing purposes, it was built and primed 5 years ago so it's kind of shitty and old. Sorry for shitty iPhone quality.
>>
>>52614641
>>
>>52614641
>Sorry for shitty iPhone quality.
Yeah, it seems your color balance is fucked.
>>
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>>52614656
Is this better?
>>
>>52614682
I assume Anon is attempting to troll, because your Ork appears to be blue, rather than the standard green.
>>
>>52614697
I thought that might be it, but I just wanted to make sure I didn't shit up the thread with bad photos though I'll just end up shitting up the thread with bad paintjobs
>>
>>52614697
>>52614705
Nah, more a friendly ribbing.

Bad photos would be a 5000x3000 4.5 MB PNG image with 1/20th of it being the model in question and the rest a messy desk and a monitor with german midget porn.
>>
>>52614793
Well, either way, I thought it was a funny joke. I just didn't want to have my picture stretch everyone's screens
>>
>>52614804
Anyways, it's a good blue, well applied, not streaky, lumpy or glooping of details, good shadows, solid start of a model.
>>
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>>52609258
thousand sons which I starter with suppa big enthusiasm, and I burned out after rubric marines box. Now i have termies, sorcs and ahriman waiting in primer.

Good thing is I'm paiting tzaangors for AoS since they had melee weapons, banners and all that stuff on sprures.
>>
>>52614837
I only see 7
>>
just started to paint again after a really long time.
so i choose something easy to start with.
>>
>>52613979
The beauty with orks is that you don't need uniformity. Hell, you can have them wear salvaged scraps from other armies. Make them look patchworky.
>>
>>52614992
You still need a recurring theme otherwise the army will look like shit
>>
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Started on my Oblivion Knight Centura for my Sisters of Silence.

Greyfax is a great base model.
>>
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>>52614990
Not bad at all.
>>
>>52611178
Mantic?
>>
>>52615012
do it with weapons or hell most of the time if you keep the skin consititent its already enough
>>
>>52609258
A squadron of Death Riders with a Wargame Exclusive Commissar attached. They are lovely models but I can't seem to find the inspiration to finish them.
>>
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How do i make this come together?

As is it feels like the front really works
The gunner and pilot do their jobs, but the cabin looks shitty and drags it all down.
>>
>>52615251
The cab is very uniform and un-Orky. I'd try making the walls different heights, adding some gubbins and glyphs, and maybe add another gun for the driver because you can never have too much dakka.
>>
>>52615251
you glued a fucking cube of plasticard onto a model and then think it looks shit. Why the fuck wouldn't it look shit?
>>
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>>52615265
Yeah, s'what i figured, just hard to do because the cab is what keeping itself together so just rest on the chassis.

>>52615276
Wow what amazing insight, you've really helped me solve the issue.
>>
>>52615251
Need to make that cabin more orky, panels, bolts and rivets, also extend a bit over the back, get rid of the gap between the driver and the gunner. Take a look at the other ork vehicles for an idea

>>52615276
cool
>>
>>52615299
Yea, I have done a shitload of other orky vehicles, all decked out with extra plating, rivets, glyphs, chips, ding, bulletholes and plasticard scores to look like multiple sheets.

Just got stuck on that one and needed something to bounce off.
>>
>>52615251
Some extra support structure around the cab would be a good idea. Make it look actually integrated instead of just kinda "there".
>>
>>52615293
Perhaps do away with the cab and replace it with a hot rod style tubing set up.Make it extra fast.
>>
>>52613901
Undercoated with Army Painter bone primer, layered with P3 Jack Bone, washed with GW Seraphim Sepia, highlighted with GW Pallid Wych Flesh.
>>
>>52614195
Yeah, that's been bugging me a bit too. I added a line of black under each one to add more contrast, bit I think I might touch them up with some orange and a dot of white.
>>
>>52614375
I split a pair of Dark vengeance boxes with a friend and got another couple of terminator squads cheap on eBay to pad out the army. It's a shame about the poses, but I just wanted something easy and quick to chuck on the table for larger games, so I'll put up with it.
>>
>>52612649
Nice scheme.
>>
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>>52615369
>>52615353
>>52615299
>>52615265
Well Here's what I managed to do before my glue died.

Plan is for a second exhaust along the empty side and of course rivets, n' shit.
>>
>>52615785
Maybe also extend the cab a little over the puny part of the engine and install a windshield from the trukk.
>>
>>52613044
All the images of minis done by them had me think that you could have achieved better results with some simple conversion work.
It's a cool toy to play with, but the final quality is questionable judging by what I've seen.
>>
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>>52615785
Already looking much better, add some rivets and shit and I think you're golden.
>>
>>52613428
>gnome, tonfa, plate armor, etc.
I'm sure a goblin, halfling, dwarf or something else of diminutive stature is easy enough to find. And a tonfa is by no means a complex weapon to scratchbuild.
You could even stratchbuild that from GW plastic kits.
Goblin legs and arms, human torso or just a chestplate from the skeleton warrior box, a human head and the tonfa can easily build if you make some cut on a spear arm and glue some of the cutoffs back under the hand again.
>>
>>52615820
Yeah, just gotta get a fresh plastic glue, this one is so low that the first drop is dry before i can eek out a second, makes mass riveting a chore.
>>
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WIP Mephiston conversion.

probably 9/10ths there. I just need to highlight the blacks, golds, and face. oh and use some matte varnish to reduce the shine.
>>
>>52615913

>Thin those paints
>>
>>52615955
Is it the gold and black that are worst?
>>
>>52615913
Look how ornate my armour is except my arm which is completely plain.

>If I cover everything in glossy red people will think it's blood not that I'm a finger painting child
>>
>>52615913
I'd definitely try to reduce the shine, and obviously you know about the highlights.

I'd say some of the smaller items/details like the pistol, weapon tubing, vials and folds in the robes will need additional detailing as well.

But for now, you have the right idea prioritizing the shine reduction.
>>
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>>52606406

Finished up an IW Warsmith for my 30k force the other week, really fun conversion.
>>
>>52616237
I could greenstuff a flayed arm but the original has a leather glove. Should i keep the marine fist? Or greenstuff a striated flayed hand?
>>
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>>52606406
>>52616369
>>
>>52616378
I like it but I'd add some color to the leather things (cingulum, as i just found out) dangling from the pauldrons.
>>
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>>52616378
>>52616369
>>
>>52616411
Yeah I like how they did them on the siege tyrant studio paintjob so I'll try that on them.
>>
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>>52613546
Thanks for the tip man. I'm working on another blonde model and following the same color combo. She's got a really long braid and even just the base coat so far really makes it pop.

Posting from my phone so I apologize in advance for the shitty quality
>>
>>52613575
>>52613791
>>52613916
>>52615798
>>52613099

Thanks guys. May give 1 a try to see how it goes. I can't justify the high end material so I'll try to be careful.
>>
>>52614138
>How come we always see your WIPs but never your finished products?

You're being facetious, right, anon?
>>
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backpacks, bases and a couple tubes to go on these guys

I celebrated almost finishing a single unit by buying another box of veterans and a conversion pack to make some terminators and a watch captain.
>>
>>52616970

Very 2nd edition, very cool, which weirdly enough reminds me, I'll have to send you some Yorkie bars this Christmas
>>
>>52617035
Are we doing Christmas again? I had a blast sharing thing with the anon I got last time
>>
>>52617061

I think so! I think your kids probably enjoyed all the Cadburys I sent ;)
>>
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>>52617035
>Very 2nd edition, very cool, which weirdly enough reminds me, I'll have to send you some Yorkie bars this Christmas

Thanks! I was thinking next go-round I'd send you some Coffee Nut M&M's. I didn't see them on Tesco's web site, so I imagine you'd have to go to a specialty shoppe to get them.
>>
>>52617080
Wrong anon, I just remember sharing some AoS when it first came our with the guy I got back in 2015. I still have the reaper minis he sent me. I should paint them and post here. I haven't painted anything in 2+ years.
>>
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>>52609258

Slowly... and I mean SLOWLY, making my way through my Genestealer cult. Now, If Im so slow, why did I pick one of the hoardiest teams on the market you say? Well, because they are fucking cool, thats why! The fluff and the play-style could be enough to be honest, but ad to this that the models are gorgeous/10, and you got yourself a winner!

But it takes time, no joke about that!
>>
>>52609258
Renegades. But I have to wait till I get paid so I can buy the glue/parts i need to finish everything off. And then work up the courage to at least practice greenstuffing for the Sister Of Silence -> Rogue Inquisitor conversion.
>>
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>>52614138
>finished product

I was posting this to show my "finished product", the completion of which has pushed back the work on my devastator squad (pictured in >>52611084). It's true what the say, though: every time you look at a picture of your work, you'll see something you missed, goofed, or just plain want to change.

"Finished" should include my painting Leadbelcher on those drainage grills.
>>
>>52613428
>>52615913
THICC
H
I
C
C

Nigger thin dem fucking paints.
>>
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Very much WIP, still lots of basing, cleaning up highlights amongst other stuff to do... trying to improve upon my fine highlighting.... newest models are the mk4 marines

Sorry for the state of the picture, put em together in paint
>>
>>52614107
Great response, thank you Anon!
>>
>>52617673
The Pasteel Legion?
>>
>>52610154
thicc
>>
>>52611328
glazing a yellow-green could fix both of those issues
>>
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>>52617673

Celestial Lions?
>>
>>52617696
>>52617748
Homebrew but both are basically close enough
>>
>>52614291
>>52614166
A dark, reddish brown would be better than black for chips as well. p3 umbral umber is a good example.
>>
>>52617553
This is pretty fantastic. It's got a simple, pastel feel to it. What kind of sponge did you use for the battle damage?
>>
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Git-Dropa AKA wargaming-themed easter egg for competition at my LGS is done.
>>
>>52617673
Whats your yellow recipe i like it
>>
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Some "just in case" dakka included
>>
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and pilot seems to enjoy chinese cartoons too much
>>
What's a good place to get Space Marine bits? My Kill Team squad needs a sergeant, but the older sprue I had laying about was missing the parts I need/want to give him. I found several one google, but most of them either have no stock at all or you have to buy bits in such large quantities that I'd be better off just buying a new tac squad box, which is crazy, since I had enough parts left on the sprue to build everyone except the sarge.
>>
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First model I've painted in about 4 months.
>>
>>52618435

That looks pretty good, man. The only thing that looks a bit funky is the upper lip. Looks a bit like he's got a tan mustache, but you'd probably not notice that at all when it's down on the table.
>>
>>52617996
Spray a black basecoat, then spray Averland Sunset once or twice to get a nice clean yellow, wash recesses with nuln oil, tidy up the armour plates then highlight with yriel yellow/flash gitz on the extreme points
>>
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>>52618367
>What's a good place to get Space Marine bits?

Go to Bartertown. You might even get somebody who would send you da bitz fer free.
>>
>>52609258
My CSM, IG and SM armies.

The IG I need to strip and make a Kill Team out of it.
My CSM need stripping and repainted and reposed from scratch.
My SM army is literally five years of collecting random spares and parts, fine casts, old metals, pro-painted ebay bargains and raiding bitz-boxes.

If I had an ultrasonic cleaner it would go much quicker, but for now im addicted to painting dungeon tiles.
>>
I'm thinking about painting my skavens like pic related. Are there any idiot-proof tutorials for monochromatic painting?
>>
>>52616369
what diameter guitar strings are those? They make me moist.
>>
>>52618557

Cheers, mate.
>>
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>that feel when no new Duncan video
>>
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Little sample of my Imperials. White is not just horrid to paint, it does not photo well...
>>
>>52618778

They're dragonforge pewter cables actually, the two 1.x mm sizes
>>
>>52615913
The coloured vials are really jarring. Should have kept them red
>>
>>52618753
If you need a tutorial to paint that then you're not good enough to paint it.
>>
>>52618753
You need to look up airbrush tutorials.
>>
>>52619050
Well, then remember to make a new thread without any links in OP
>>
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>>52617899

Regular "blister" sponge. Just rip of a very small piece, and use a pair of tweezers to grab hold. Be careful though, not to spill over to other painted areas as I usually do all weathering as a last step of my models.

(Picture just before weathering and blood effects)
>>
>>52619026
>The coloured vials are really jarring. Should have kept them red

Maybe in the grim, dark future of 3rd Edition or later, but Brother Mephiston there is 2nd Edition vintage. He was original pictured with one green vial and one red vial.

Doesn't mean I don't agree with your first sentence, though. They *are* rather jarring.
>>
>>52618435
>>52618486

Oh man, I was just about to say the same thing! Real good job on the mini, but he´s got a serious case of "selfie-lips" going on. Easily fixed by fixing the highlight of the upper lip.
>>
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>>52615913
>putting your mini on the side of the base rather than in the centre

Why the fuck.
>>
>>52619311
The studio paintjob you posted uses green on the tubes of his armor and his plasma gun in addition to the vials on his hip and his shoulder.
with that colorscheme it's a complementary secondary color.
This scheme
>>52615913
I black red and gold. The only other colors there are blue, green and pruple on the vials on the hip and the plasmagun.
If you'd do all those things in one color it'd work better.
>>
>>52619405
He's standing on the edge of a vat of blood. Notice the stamped ship decking stuff he's on compared to the flatness of the glossy blood pool area.
>>
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>>52618753

This is just a classical case of too much airbrush. In case you own one, heres what you do. Don't assemble, paint every part separate and separate the parts in to 3 colors. In this case, metal, grey and the striking green. The green is the trick here, to make it all look good to the eye for the common folk. With that stark contrast on such a limited and otherwise dull palette, it is bound to look cool.

So, after separating, you spray the parts in respective color. You assemble the model, and if you want to go the extra mile, you gloss varnish it, and ad an oil-based wash to it. Finish by easy clean the wash where spilling has occurred (with thinner and a q-tip), and ad some final edge highlights on parts you deem noteworthy (in this particular case, you can see some on the edge of the metal parts, the claws and some extra detailing on the seers head).

All in all this is Airbrush 101, and more importantly, this is the type of paint-job that most people on /tg/ fucking hates, because it screams "commission job". These guys get paid by the hour, and need to skip steps in the painting process and still make it look good.

If you don't have an airbrush, don't bother.
>>
I've decided to try the Army Painter range instead of GW's on a new army.
Need a bit of help though, which AP washes is closest to Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil?
>>
>>52619571

Check out nextlevelpainting on YouTube, he does a full series of videos when he uses only Army Painter range of different sorts. Everything from washes to metal colors.
>>
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>>52614138

This is what has to come next before I get back to that devastator squad:

-- Heavy bolter model ("Brother Longun") for Squad Actaeon, which currently only has a lascannon as an option
-- Extra squadboy ("Brother Hamilton") for Squad Acteon to replace a burna boy that I can't have in a five-man unit (either heavy *or* special, but not both)
-- Replacement meltagun for Squad Gabriel, whose current model really needs to be stripped and repainted
-- Two squadboyz for Squad Brutus. Gotta have bolta ladz for five-man units
-- Third Company champion. Unlike Codex chapters, Blood Angels *must* take a champion in a command squad, and I never actually painted one up. None of the other models I have finished really felt "champion-ish" enough.
-- Plasma gun model ("Brother Cringer") for squad Vincent, which currently only has a meltagun for its special weapon

Wouldn't mind finishing all this today, since I have a day off.
>>
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>>52619571
>which AP washes is closest to Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil?
Nuln oil is the new version of Badab Black, right?
>>
Putting together a workspace, what are the things that will make it much easier that I might not think about while putting it together?
>>
I'm trying to paint some gold on some Space Marines.I've already applied Balthasar Gold and some Agrax Earthshade in the recesses,but it looks more like a bronze.I bought some Gehenna's Gold to paint over it,but anyone have some tips on how to make it look good?
>>
>>52620049
Good light.
Second light
Vice.
Tweezers
Cutting mat
Optional tablecloth for catching bits before thet drop to the floor.

Rest is tools.
>>
>>52619723
Thanks, and yes.

>>52619617
Alright, thanks. Will check it out later.
>>
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>>52620073
>anyone have some tips on how to make it look good?

Highest of the highlights on the very edges should actually be silver (Stormhost Silver or Runefang Steel under the current line) rather than gold.
>>
>>52611209
Shorter hair, looks too elvish.
>>
>>52620103
Vice as in like a table vice? Or a handheld one? Cutting matts available at craft stores, right?
>>
>>52620103
What tools do I need other than cutters and tweezer
>>
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>>52620162
>Shorter hair, looks too elvish.

I was actually thinking he looked like a grown-up version of pic related.
>>
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Finished my first Carcharodon terminator and holy shit the pictures aren't kind. Don't know if it's the light, maybe it's too bright but I swear it looks better in person. Next time I'll try without the white background and a better lightbox.

On another note, Polynesian tatoos on this scale are nigh impossible, but I feel like with a bit of practice, you can end up with some fun stuff. I'm not there yet, but I can see some stuff happening.
>>
>>52620103
get a desk tidy to put all your shit in. I have a square metal one with different slots and a round cup one I can lift out of it. Makes everything much cleaner.
>>
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>>52620212
>What tools do I need other than cutters and tweezer

Need?

Sprue cutters, yes, but a hobby knife is absolutely essential. If you don't feel like shelling out for a mold line remover (most people don't), then the back edge of your hobby knife can fill in.

You're going to want a pin vise at some point. Even if you're one of those types that doesn't believe in drilling barrels of guns, you'll likely want to pin together models at some point (usually metal models, or metal models with plastic limbs), and a pin vise is a must have in those situations. Just don't do what I did and buy the one with collettes on each end - the novelty wears off once it starts digging into the palm of your hand.

An assortment of needle files will run you a couple of bucks at your local hardware store. The ridges fill with plastic after a while. Just use 'em up, ruin 'em, throw 'em away, and buy new ones. Really fine sandpaper might also be useful for the same reasons.

A big (1" - 1.5") cheap flat brush - even the coarse kind you buy at the hardware store - can be useful for sweeping plastic shavings and cut sprue bits off your work area. You might even want a little cup or shallow dish nearby to hold all this rubbish so you can don't have to go dump it in the bin immediately after collecting it.
>>
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>>52619338
>>52618486

Toned back upper lip a bit with some really thin washes, looks better! Pics don't do it justice as usual.
>>
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>>52620189
Table vice, make sure to get one with some soft pads for the clamps

And yeah the same mats used for paper crafts.

>>52620212
I'll just do a rundown

Mandatory:
Flat sided cutters
Craft knife
Files (the carboard nail files can work too but struggle at rigidity and cramped spaces)

Optional but highly recommended:
Hand drill
Razor saw
Sculpting tools
Sanding block (for heavy duty sanding, getting shit level)
Poster putty/blutac (holds shit in place to estimate poses)

DIY shit:
Carpet tape on a ~2"peg for putting models on so you don't have to hold them by the legs.

Extras:
Tackle/Screw boxes for bits.
Work magnifying lens (you can even get ones with light and little claws for holding shit)
>>
>>52620380
>>52620362
Thank you guys! Hopefully in a couple weeks I'll have stuff to post here
>>
>>52620378

Much better!
>>
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All the parts for my magnetised Skitarii squad cleaned and ready for magnets, sans the 30 or so heads. Sadly I was one Galvanic Rifle short because one guy can only be built with Plasma Caliver or Arc Rifle, but I made a one-handed Radium Carbine and Data-tether and he'll look fine.

Now to bag them all up in a bazillion different sections so I have the right guns per guy, and the Knight I'm also working on, and move house. Fuck my life, bad time to have literally the largest possible number of bitz to keep precisely ordered.
>>
So I think I saw someone mention that you can make REALLY strong glue bonds by mixing sytrofoam and superglue. Is this true, and if so, any particular way to do it, or do I just melt some styrofoam with the glue and then apply it.
>>
>>52616378
>Iron warriors
>Fully armored
>No helmet
REEEEEEEEEEEE

The armour could use a bit more edge highlighting, currently there isn't much contrast between the silver and the gold so the whole model looks very grey
>>
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Straight hand or slightly tilted?
>>
>>52621265
90 degrees ghetto "aiming"
>>
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>>52621272
Hm, not sure I like that look.
>>
>>52620681
Get sandwich bags and use those.

>>52620866
That sounds very dangerous and not true. If you need extra strength then pin it and use putty to fill the gap. It'll hold against damn near anything.
>>
>>52621404

Pretty much what I figured, thanks. I'll just stick to my old stand by of greenstuff + super glue.

>>52621265

Slightly tilted, gives a feeling that it's more of an 'in the action' moment.
>>
>>52621265
Tilted.
>>
>>52621391
Typically ghetto aiming turns the gun inward, not outward
>>
>>52621391
Go for the ghetto 180 degree tilt.
>>
>>52621449
I don't really like that look either, and I'm not playing Black Legion.

>>52621426
>>52621425
Yeah, leaning towards that. Thanks for the input
>>
Can anyone suggest a source of antiquated lasguns/rifles, e.g. Vostroyan style?
>>
>>52621482
In the original picture I was actually not posing the hand straight, it was the traditional ghetto 360 degree tilt.
>>
>>52621548
now we're talking
>>
>>52621265
what chapter is this lad from?
>>
Anyone have any tips for painting haemotrope reactors? It's my first fortification.

I have the two "reactors" assembled, and am probably going to put magnets in place for the extras as soon as it dries.

After that, I am unsure what to do to paint it. Prime black? white?
>>
>>52621265
the only way to aim a gun is if you keep it upright.
So unless you want your marine to fail on the most basic level of operating a handgun I'd say straight.
>>
>>52621828
Not entirely true, although for handguns I would agree with you.

If you have a shotgun, one way to hold it is in the crease of the shoulder that leaves it slightly inclined inward. It's nowhere near 45 degrees, maybe 10 or 15. But this technique is very useful for drills in which you have to raise and lower the gun multiple times.
>>
>>52621391
This made me laugh way harder than it should have.
>>
>>52621828
I ended up tilting it slightly so that the sight lines up with his eye, which looks logical enough, assuming he just pulled up the pistol for a quick shot.
>>52621781
My army originally started as Word Bearers, but now I'm leaning more towards Death Guard. So I'm thinking that they're a Nurglite cult of WB, mixing both themes a little.
>>
Banged out another 12 Fire Warriors, been doing them up over the last couple of days, taking one stage at a time. Christ they take a while to finish, my neck's killing me! There's no way to paint clearly without craning your neck down like a fucking ostrich.
>>
>>52621828
The main reason you hold it upright like that is so shells dont go in your face.
See: Flak guns, tactical sights on rifles cocked to the side, what >>52621854 said too.
>>
>>52622061
>There's no way to paint clearly without craning your neck down like a fucking ostrich.
If you got a table with adjustable legs you can rise them higher. If you are sitting on an adjustable chair you can put that lower.
If you brace your elbows and wrist against the table you should be able to paint at eyelevel.
Alternately you could just plant your elbows on your knees and keep a straight back.

When I paint for a while I find it helps to change positions every once in a while and have loads of light to keep the strain on your eyes and back low.
>>
>>52607218
Yeah ignore the other guy, I'm interested in your progress senpai
>>
>>52622061
I have one of those fancy newfangled up-and-down chairs.
>>
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>>52607137
Get the fuck out. Why are you even here if you're not interested in WIP? Get tae fuck
>>
>>52622207
Why are you replying to a day-old complaint post?
>>
>>52622204
>>52622117
My desk isn't adjustable sadly, it's part of the wall unit. I have a slight tremor sometimes so the only way I stop them completely is to brace my wrists, which forces me to bend down. Back's always quasimodo, neck's always tilted forward and down. Feels terrible man.

How the hell do you plant your elbows on your knees and keep a straight back? My elbows don't even reach my thighs without bending over.

Is that you, Stretch Armstrong?
>>
>>52622298
Lower your chair, that brings your knees and face closer to the desk surface.
>>
>>52622328
I don't have an adjustable chair nor a smaller chair. Plus if i do that, I'd sit very uncomfortably as I got thick legs and a bit of chub. Spread legs and a pose that encourages me bending from my lower back. Doesn't sound nice.

Thank you for trying to help though, I appreciate it
>>
>>52622370
They key is to alternate between the states, ideally you should drop everything one every half hour and stretch, but alternate chair lets me cheat.
>>
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>>52617673
Looks like your base is averland. Put some lamenters yellow glaze on those guys. You'll thank me later.

WIP pic related is mine. Averland with the glaze. No highlights on him yet. Lighting is also darker than normal though
>>
Anyone know if the citadel mournfang brown spray is a primer?
>>
>>52622475
Only their black and white are undercoats, the rest are basecoats.
>>
Dumb question:
If we use gloss coat spray to protect our minis, then use matte spray to remove the shine, how am I supposed to apply the newish Gloss Shades from GW and still have them glossy if the matte coat removes the shine?
>>
>>52622498
Cheers anon.
>>
>>52622526
Don't use matte spray, get matte in a pot brush on where needed.
Vice versa for gems you want shiny, whatever is the majority.
>>
>>52622444
Nice trips! yeah I tend to take a lot of breaks but I'm so focused recently that i'm not paying attention to how hard I bend to get at a detail.

I mean it has its uses as I'm finally getting a LOT of shit done (I took year+ long hiatuses from painting, never enjoyed it. Now I'm going at a rate that I'll be finishing a 2K list in a month.
>>
I am using the standard captain box to make my own pedro kantor for an imperial fists army.

Do you think I should paint him in IF or CF colors?

His gauntlet/powerfist are going to be red either way
>>
>>52622298
>How the hell do you plant your elbows on your knees and keep a straight back? My elbows don't even reach my thighs without bending over.
knees apart and leaning forward, but with a straight back.
>>
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>>52622612
Mate, not using the actual model when you can gt it cheap on ebay in metal, and is so gorgeous is plain blasphemy.
Paint him IF though.
>>
>>52606711
> you gain brouzouf
> you gain brouzouf
> your legs are okay
>>
>>52622791
>>52613521
I was gonna paint them like scavengers, but should I do them like E.Y.E instead?
>>
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>>52622991
I know I've been wanting to do that since AoS came out.
>>
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>>52619291
>>52617553
for the four armed emperor! nice one anon, i'm also stealing your advise to sponge anon. i saved some blister sponges just for that purpose but my last attempt holding a bigger piece in my hand was rather meh... so tweezers it is. ty anon


while waiting for the paint to dry on my rhino, next up hazard stripes and i want to try a freehand iron warrior skull on the side doors, i started legion'ing up this baselisk, still very early wip
>>
Does anybody have any ideas for scratchbuilt Tau turrets? I want to field some but obviously not buying the new infantry since I have plenty already. Anyone here done them before?
>>
Looking to build my own earthshaker artillery carriages and was thinking of getting the imperial knight battle cannon bits to use for the gun, anyone have any experience making these?
>>
>>52622777
I didn't know he had a model. I'll check ebay then
>>
>>52623399
>>52622777
I found some metal ones on ebay for about $40, is metal better than finecast?

I've never painted metal.
>>
>>52623452
If you prime your miniatures (like you should), painting metal isn't any different than painting anything else.
>>
>>52623475
I do, I just always see people cream their collective pants over "sisters in plastic", so I assumed it has some serious advantages.

If it's not fragile or anything I might get the metal over the resin one. You are right, the model looks cooler than what I was going to make.
>>
>>52623491
Well, medal models do have the disadvantage of weight; I'd still stay away from failcast though.
>>
>>52623607
Good to know, is finecast a pain other than filing it is bad for you?
>>
>>52623616
It's definitely the filling. I've seen garage kit resin with less pitting.
>>
>>52623663
Ok, I am sold on the metal one.

>inb4 you were the seller and I just got got
>>
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This is the list I have him in right now
>>
When doing an old hammer army what size bases should you put your models on? I.e. terminators?
>>
>>52623769
25mm round for everything infantry, 40mm round for big guys. Though Rogue Trader era was bit more varied (you saw 25 & 40mm square pretty regularly for demons and stuff that carried over from Fantasy pretty regularly).
>>
>>52622450
Clean up the wash on those studs and the mold line on his arm.
>>
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>>52614166
Yellow tau best tau.
>>
>>52623932
I want it to be playable in the new edition
>>
>>52623769
>When doing an old hammer army what size bases should you put your models on? I.e. terminators?

I used to put just about everything on 25mm bases, but some newer marines I'm putting on 32's, and I plan to mount all my terminators on 40's.
>>
>>52606711
The terrain behind them is fuckin cool.
Paint it.
>>
>>52609258
I'm sitting on my Thousand Sons and Chaos biker conversions respectively because this weekend I just didn't have the motivation to paint. I'm heading up to my FLGS tomorrow afternoon after work, maybe that will inspire me.
>>
>>52623963
Are you going to throw some water effects on that base? It would look great.
>>
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Working on my Not!-Necromunda Aspiring Champion
>>
>>52609258

Some Kingdom Death and Arena: rex stuff I ordered recently. Just gotta sit down and do it...
>>
>>52609258
Anything related to magnetizing/Pinning ever I always end up with half assembled shit and never finish it
>>
>>52624292
I have 2 Kingdom death minis of which I am to scared to paint
>>
>>52624324

Honestly, other than the faces, I haven't found KD:M to be THAT intimidating to paint. If you've painted like Malifaux or other minis with very fine details the reputation they have is worse than the actual painting of it. Depends a lot on which ones you have as well. I've found Malifaux to be a much more difficult painting time.
>>
>>52623963
You'd best be full flavored Tau cheese to match your yellow
>>
>>52609258
I have a sigismund and alexis pollux, but I am too scared to paint them. I am new, and yellow is hard. So I am trying to get as much practice in as I can.
>>
Any tips for starting terrain? I have an old die cast Humvee in the right scale with the front wheels missing, a die cast ford pick up in the same scale that the cab has been smashed in, and a few old building playsets that may work. Any idea with what I can do with them and have it look like it fits?
>>
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Help. I don't know what to do when it comes to highlighting the flat blue armor surfaces because duncan is no longer holding my hands. These leg plates are driving me nuts. Save me please.
>>
>>52624889

Take basecoat, mix in highlight color (typically white or a brighter blue/orange/black/whatever), thin it down into a glaze. Apply glaze to all of the blue except for very edges of the flat bits. Repeat process and highlight in ever thinner amounts until you have reached a point where it's a thin, straight line representing where light is hitting it most directly. Look at a picture of a cylinder under light and you'll see what I'm talking about.
>>
>>52624889
Kill yourself, it will make the world a better place if you can't figure out how to highlight a model without a rat faced freak telling you to drybrush everything.
>>
>>52625003
(You)
>>
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>>52625003
Why are you being mean to people on the internet?

Don't you have better things to do?
>>
>>52624931
Thanks, I'll try that.
>>
>>52613901

Beautiful. It kills me when I see parts on a model that should be giving off some sort of luminance, but the painter just gave it a quick once-over with a spray brush, giving the model no sense of actually giving off a glow. They need to realized that the light comes from within the machinery, and dims as it radiates outward. Not the opposite.Absolutely kills me.
>>
this may be more of a 40k general question, but would it be worth the effort to magnetize sentinels?
>>
>>52625539
To switch out the weapons?
Sure.
For vehicles magnetizing makes sense.
To switch out weapons on sarges or characters it's kind of a waste of time and a pain in the ass in practice to deal with.
I'd rather build another nice character than paint five separate hands that you have to store somewhere when you are not using them.
>>
wip gsc sentinel. What color should I do the weathering in, skavenblight dinge or rhinox hide?

>>52625539
Do you mean the weapons, or the armor? Doing the weapons is easy, I skipped the armor myself.
>>
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slightly outdated picture of what i'm working on, I'm trying to decide if the shoulder pads should be the same bone colour as the rest of the bark or maybe something different just to add another colour to the model
>>
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>>52625647
Well shit, forgot pic.
>>
I need some help guys, I'm dying here. I just got my yncarne I ordered from ebay, but they didn't send any instructions, and this model is Damm near impossible to figure out without them. Can somebody with the triumvirate of ynnead take pictures of the instructions and throw them up here I would be eternally grateful.
>>
Anyone have any examples of really dark orcs for AOS/40k? Black Orcs are supposed to be big and dark, but does dark dark green or literally black look better?
>>
>>52625816
Go for dark angel's levels of green.
>>
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>>52625816
Here's an example of how GW paints orks/orc and goblins/gretchin.
They never actually made an effort to make the Black Orcs noticeably darker afaik,
Though going a shade darker with them, adding a brown wash/tint or something like that might look nice.
>>
>>52625647
>>52625661
yeah, the weapons, also great looking sentinel dude, I really dig the yellow
>>
Is it worth painting all of the rivets on a chimera? I've done it once for my command chimera and really don't want to spend the time doing that for every single chimera chassis vehicle I have.
>>
>>52626090
>Is it worth painting all of the rivets on a chimera?
It looks better. Is it worth it? you decide.
Anyway you can try using a little trick.
Use one brush with water and wet the bolt, then dip another brush loaded with a wash into the water that has settled around the bolt. The pigment should diffuse in the water.

Still some work but easier than highlighting or shading around each bolt by hand.

The old school tried and true approach to painting tanks was adding a very light drybrush over the entire tank. That could also give these raised details more definition.
>>
>>52614163
For the scales and lower body: Good watered down coat of vallejo Magic Blue to the back scales - then given a wash of GW's Asurmen Blue. Highlight their crests on the head by just applying some white to magic blue. Their toes/claws are just skeleton bone with a few layers of devlan mud.

Applied a black ink to their mouths then picked out the teeth.

The lower body, I used Magic Blue, water, and a drop of floor cleaning solution to make a wash out of it. Lightly apply this to the 'lower' body then highlight all raised areas with white.

Base coated all gold bits in ballejo Arena Marron. Then painted it with a basic gold, highlight edges a bit with a lighter gold.

The shield - seriously water down a bright orange and liberally apply. Once dry, do the same with a dark brown to achieve the shell look. Wash it with devlan mud.
>>
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/wip/ on my arch wedlock, damn arm broke off while trying to take the picture so there's that.

What do you guys think? Wanted a very dingy and cobbled together look hence the various metals to make his armor.
>>
>>52606711
This is fucking Skub because you used Sigmarines.
>>
>>52607320
Kinda looks like a Xenomorph. Nice job anon it looks really good.
>>
new thread when
>>
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So many, many things I did wrong, I'm sure. (Gave up on getting all of the mold line off, because it looked like I was just cutting gouges into the minis.)
But I've finally started putting my guys together.
>>
>>52613901
Holy shit how did you do that?
>>
new thread
>>52627769
>>52627769
>>52627769
>>52627769
Thread posts: 350
Thread images: 101


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