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WIP - Work In Progress General

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Thread replies: 370
Thread images: 101

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No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>We stood at the edge of destruction, and would have fallen... if not for the might of The God-Emperor and his Angels of Death.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivXS-58a2EE

>Previous Threads:
>>52495833
>>52472701
>>52424119
>>52401943
>>52371093
>>52349956
>>52329482
>>52280906
>>
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First for nolzur's marvelous miniatures.
>>
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Is there a better way to clean resin other than scrubbing it with a toothbrush in soapy water?
I've got a ton of little pieces and that would get tedious
>>
>>52527024

A sonic cleaner will do it easily and fast. I just soak it for 24 hours so that I can do one quick scrub and a rinse which is fairly fast.
>>
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I think I asked this a couple threads ago but I forgot and that thread is long dead.
I'm looking for suggestions on how to paint my next BFG battleship, looking for non-blue color schemes.
>>
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Thread was dying last time, so here we go again.

My china cast came in today, a x while most of it is usable, these two bits are questionable. Is there any way to fix these mold slips? I MIGHT be able to hide the damaged/incomplete part of the torso with some clever arm modeling, but I don't know about the slips. The arm is particularly bad.
>>
>>52513857

So I guess nothing good can come of this fugly kit?
>>
>>52527307
arm looks fucked, torso has the possibility of being salvaged
>>
>>52527433

How do I salvage the torso?
>>
>>52527307
just post it in more threads and it'll fix itself
>>
>>52527307

The easiest way to fix mold alighment problems is to cut the peice in half along the line if at all possible, then put it back together. This looks possible on the right one.

If you are lazy, reducing both sides until flat will work to, but you end up with a slightly smaller part than before, this will work for the large part cause this delta is not noticeable.

The best way is a combination of both reduction and addition. Get some miliput, a file, and sand paper and go to town.

Ive had to restore a rib cage on a butchered hive tyrant mold, looks good now.
>>
>>52527587

Better chance of finding an answer

>>52527726

Cutting in half? That sounds dicey, though I suppose it makes sense. I don't know if a normal hobby/exacto knife will be good enough. I might have to get one of those hobby saws.

Will normal Greenstuff work? I don't have miliput, though I suppose I could get some. However, I'm embarrassingly bad when it comes to putty.
>>
>>52527190
look for green ones, maybe
>>
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Spoop
>>
>>52527517
gs and scraping if it'll work, there might be spots where it wont, kinda hard to tell in the pics
>>
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>>52526956
Hi guys. I dont come to /wipg/ at all, but I figured some people here might be able to help

I'm looking for a bunch of minis or tutorials for making flesh somewhat merged with technology. I guess biopunk would be a word to describe it? Essentially stuff like flayed skin or lumps of severed body parts or some weird zombies with bits of technology implanted in them

Any ideas?
>>
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Ayup lads, it's me again. I'm getting a chunky little Rotbringers Sorcerer in the mail for conversion into Dark Mechanicum. Some questions: what is the figure made out of? The store page doesn't say.
Secondly, I was thinking about removing the face and adding the face of a Princeps from either the Sicarian Ruststalkers or Infiltrators.
What do you think would look better?
>>
>>52527307
wow thats horrendous, which caster was it?
>>
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>>52529481

Who do you think? Z. What surprises me actually is that this is rather fantastic quality. It's hardly perfect, but there are no major mold slips and anything particularly bad isn't going to be visible.
>>
I'm one of those noobs who's been constantly asking questions. First batch of minis are cut, cleaned, assembled, based and primed, and I've finally started putting paint on. I'm making some use of this video tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGPFn1CSwvU
Except that I'm using abaddon black for the soft armor and castellan green for the armored plates. In this video, they paint the soft armor, then apply shade, then paint the plates. Should I follow this sequence as well, or should I paint my plates before adding shade? I'm thinking they may have done shade before plates due to painting the plates white?
>>
>>52529464
Right face. It actually looks like a face, and could possibly fit under the hood.
>>
>>52529411
closest thing i can think of is warhammertv's cult mechanicus videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sQ18Ct816E
>>
>>52529936
generally you always shade first unless you are doing the drybrush method of adding highlights, which you shouldn't do on tau. so yes, apply shade first and then clean up any messy areas and add edge highlights.
>>
>>52530035
>>52529936
oh nvm. the only times you do shades separately is if you are using a different shade for different parts and you don't want them to mix.
>>
>>52530045
In the tutorial I'm going off of, they use different shades for the two regions, but they specifically do base->shade for the soft armor, and shade->base for the plates. I was wondering if I should follow that same pattern, given that my color scheme differs.
>>
>>52530065
>>52529936
Short answer: yes
Usually you go:
>base coat
>shade
>reapply/ neaten up basecoat, leaving the shade in the recesses
>layer on raised areas
>highlights
>>
>>52529936

Paint recessed parts first, then raised parts. Cloth is below armor so paint cloth first.
>>
>>52530232
Okay, so I should do my castellan before my shade, unlike the video where they did shade and then white basecoat. Thank you!

Another question: I primed black, and I honestly cannot see a difference in the areas that I proceeded to paint with abaddon. Is it still worthwhile to paint my black areas more-black, or should I just leave them at the primer color until highlight-time?
>>
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Me and the Ladz came first place in our April Fools contest, thanks for all the advice and kind words, guys!
>>
>>52530312
Hold it against the light. Black primer has a different finish than abaddon black.

Also, painting white is always a bit different.
>>
>>52530373
Thank you very much!
>>
>>52527024
I have never cleaned resin and I have never suffered any ill effect from not doing it.
>>
>too afraid to buy paint brushes
>too afraid to buy paint
>too afraid to mar models with shit paint job
Why did I buy into this fucking hobby
>>
>>52530426
It doesn't really sound like you have done.
>>
>>52530369
Saw this on Facebook, i know who you are now anon...
>>
>>52530453
I have almost 1500 of an AOS army and 2500 of a 40k army. The 40k army is more than half painted, but I did that several years ago in high school. I haven't painted in well over 5-6 years.
>>
>>52530426
Buy cheap models, citadel starter set, and simple art brush

Dont forget to thin your paints
>>
>>52530426
Just start somewhere. It gets easier.
>>
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>>52530426

>Paints
>Brushes
>Too afraid to buy

Buy them online then.

>too afraid to mar models with shit paint job

Well... you have to start somewhere...

on the left are my Brothers first models painted... 2016 on the right is something he painted this year 2017.

He's still learning but has made great progress.
>>
>>52530465

Hello friend.
>>
>>52530426
>too afraid to ruin yer plastic men
whew.gif

Get help, anon.
>>
>>52530369
congrats, anon! i've been watching your progress since you first started posting about it. happy to see it dome!
>>
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I'm about to hate painting (more) gold.
>>
>>52530591
>£219 for 3 landraiders

Wew lad, just buy recasts and save yourself shitloads!
>>
>>52530606
All the reviews I've seen for the recasted Land Raiders have always been terrible.

Conversion packs are fine, but it's cheaper to buy the LR with the kit from them versus a regular land raider and a recast conversion kit.
>>
>>52519586

Thanks for posting all your stuff mate, love it, sorry I couldn't comment at the time but had to got to work.

When Death Guard 2.0 come out I'll be using your scheme for sure
>>
>>52530635
>its cheaper

Buy 3 landraiders from element games or triple helix. Buy 3 conversion kits from china. I can 100% guarantee that it'll be a significant saving.
>>
>>52530954
Honestly I kind of want to support FW?
>>
>>52530991
>after the Magnus rules
>>
>>52529411
some dark eldar stuff maybe
>>
>>52530991
Support your wallet m8, then you can buy even more plastic crack
>>
>>52531018
I like TS but I give zero fucks about Primarch rules.
>>
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>>52527419
Get their mouths, turn em upside down and they look alot better.
>>
>>52529541
Z forgeworld recasts tend to be 50/50
>>
>>52531018
>Magnus rules

That bad?
>>
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Vargheists are finally done (or as done as they're gonna get, I'm sick of them). Started these dudes 6 months ago and then didn't touch them cause I've been painting 40k stuff.

Now I just have 20 skeletons, 3 spirit hosts, Mannfred, a zombie dragon with vampire lord and 10 dire wolves to do and the death stuff I own will be finished... (*cries*)
>>
Has anyone had much experience working with Tartaros armour, more specifically Deathshroud? I wanted to use them as the basis for 40k terminators but would standard 40k termie shoulder pads fit on Tartaros shoulders?
>>
My friend is making recast. And i asked him to redpill me on toxic resin. He said yellow one is toxic, chinese faggots are using cheapes resin with fucking mercury in it.
If you have questions about recast ask away.
>>52531929
Only if you use normal terminator hands with them. Tartaros shoulders are smaller.
>>
>>52532011
I wanted to use the 40k DG conversion kit to make nurglite termies with scythes, so I'm not sure if the shoulderpads will get in the way what with all the spikes and general boxiness of the DG termie torsos.
>>
>>52529464
>what's the figure made out of

Metal, surprisingly. They never made a shitcast one, which is a good thing.
>>
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Since the kickstarter arrived, been working on Lobotomy
>>
Looking to make my own washes out of the paints I have (mix of old Citadel and Vallejo Game Colour). Does anyone know of any worthwhile wash/glaze medium?

I know of Lahmian Medium but preferably something that gives me more at a reasonable price. I'd need many many pots of Lahmian otherwise.
>>
>>52532432
There's a million YouTube vids that are gonna help you more than a block of text on here
>>
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Do any of you anons know how to make the flat panels of vehicles interesting? I am making my own taurox standin and planning either a arvus lighter or avenger strike fighter. However I am afraid that they will be too flat.

Here is a old pic of the taurox, the sides are onboard but I don't have a picture.
>>
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What to do, I can't seem to make it even a tenth as good as my normal work and every time i add or remove more it just seems to get worse.

Should I just give up and hope for inspiration to strike at a later time or keep fiddling with it?

It might just be that my bit-box is too exhausted to offer any got pieces for further work.
>>
>>52530369
Well done ya git!
>>
>>52530591
Just buy the Retributor spray already. The follow Duncan's tutorial on custodes.
>>
>>52533114
I assume you are trying to orkyfy it?

One big thing that it is missing is the shielding. That is a big opportunity to add some character to the thing and make it your own.

Aside from that there is nothing wrong with is as far as I can see. Just seems a little basic at the moment since the only modifications are orky fieldrepairs.
Adding a spiky ramming ram to the front it's great because it makes zero sense on an artillery tank or maybe a makeshift bulldozer blade that could act as addition shielding or something like that would do the trick.
Maybe a new copula for the driver or some rinky dink munitions storage would be a good addiiton too.
>>
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>>52533090
Looks like you have made a good start.
I would recommend adding details to break up large areas.

This allows you to work in more detail when painting and gives a more realistic feeling.

You could add small rivets across some of the armored plates. Some weapon damage such as small arms dents.

If you have spare bits, you can mess around to see what looks good as well.

Pic related might help. Your build reminds me of the Saxon.
>>
>>52529464
>>52532327
Actually, mine was finecast.
>>
>>52533090
If nothing else panel lines are always good.
GW basically did that with the old Rhino front plate too. Just two square armor plates with firing slits and you got details.
Ventilation slits or exhaust piping could work too. Adding stowage is also an option.
>>
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>>52533471
>Finecast works so bad for some sculpts GW secretly went back to metal
I want to believe
>>
>>52533471
>mine was finecast

That model was never made into finecast. If you have a resin one it's a recast.
>>
>>52533486
>>52533437
thanks, I will likely post more about this soon. Tonight I intend to use bondo car putty to smooth out all my panels and doors. After that I will sand it and start trying to find rivets and stuff to use on it.
>>
Bone colored Necrons.

Yay or nay?
>>
>>52534522
yay
>>
>>52534522
With the right contrasts and different coloured plates n' shit sure, but "dunk em in bone, wash 'em brown and call it a day" No.
>>
>>52534522
Bone, not really, ceramic would look cooler.
>>
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howling griffon needs a bit more work on the black highlights, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to the backpacks
>>
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>>52533428
I did just find a russ dozer blade and This baby in my second bit bx

But I'd really hate to ruin both.
>>
>>52530369
>Was actually fooled by the thumbnail
Well damn, anon, you got me there.
>>
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>>52534614
Did a dry fit with a trukk engine armour, big shoota and dozer blade.
>>
>>52534730
Add some big jagged plasticard teef to the dozer, some Grots having a fight on the flat bit and jobs a good 'un.
>>
I've just started with the hobby.
>My paints become washes when I try to thin them
>I leave zones unpainted all the time
>Shades seem to dirty up things instead of creating a shading effect.
>I've failed at highlight everytime.
>My minis smell of strawberry because I'm using bublegum instead of blu tack.

How far am I from living off as a commision painter?
>>
>>52534957
Don't thin the pot anon.
Put a couple drops on a palate and thin it with a drop of acrylic medium, or water, there.
That way you can control how thin it gets and how much is on the brush.

Only put the shades into recesses, then clear up small excess on the flat areas.
>>
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Anyone have a tutorial for painting pristine white marble? I'm not sure how to achieve this effect.
>>
>>52534924
Well i just jammed on a fuel tank and a bigass smokestack near the engine in >>52533114

And considering adding one of those ring mounted big shootas from the trukk on top of the driver side.

And of courde a small gun shield to the big shoota, fer safety!

>some Grots having a fight on the flat bit and jobs a good 'un.
OH! I do have a old loader and targetter grot lying around... and the damn shell fits the muzzle perfectly.
>>
https://youtu.be/ACT-RNk2GkY

Looking forward to watching more "advanced" tutorials like that.
Really like that blade effect where it's a bit darker than usual. The WD Eavy Metal guide made it look like a bright glass sword.
>>
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>>52535076
copied from a WIP thread quite some time ago:
See pic related
>basically it's:

>rakarth
>pallid wych
>put water all over the surface, then do agrax lines
>more agrax on the lines, then smooth the borders with thinned rakarth
>very thin agrax to mark the lines
>highlight the lines with pallid wych and white scar
>white scar was on the light areas
>gloss varnish at the end if you want to
>>
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Progress on the canonness. Critique would he nice because I feel something's off. I AM going to brighten up the cloak a bit.
>>
>>52535396
damn, seems I saved the thumbnail rather than the full image...
>>
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>>52535414
2/3
>>
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>>52535431
Also, trying to figure out what I should color the inside of the pad.
>>
>>52535414
I think the Corset needs to be a different colour, as it is now it just blends in with the armour too much
>>
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Snagged this for 20 Dollarydoos inc postage. How'd I do?
>tfw don't even play 40k
Should still be fun to paint to practice.
>>
>>52535447
I was thinking of that. Color suggestions?
>>
>>52535469
I think black would be a safe choice
>>
>>52535414
>>52535431
>>52535441
I'm not sure the current colour combination works all that well. The Brass and grey work, and the brass and red, but soemthing about all three together jsut seems to clash.
>>
>>52535456
>Snagged this for 20 Dollarydoos inc postage. How'd I do?
Pretty fucking spectacular.
Even a single box of cadians is more expensive these days and it seems you got an old 20 model box instead of a newer 10 per box.

So yeah. If you get an HQ squad or convert a few hero characters you got a legal army.
>>
>>52535503
Nice! Never painted any imperial units, mostly Nids and Orks. Should be fun.
>HQ squad...legal army
Holy shit really? Neat! Might have to scrounge around for the rules. Considering I have about 2k of Orks and the same of Nids.

I only got them originally because I wanna convert them to gunners of Nuln as a Mordheim warbands.
>>
>>52535456
WHERE?

[heavy breathing]

I have been collecting a vraks heretics army and i wish i could snag something that good for 20 buckaroos
>>
>>52526993
saw these in my local shop

Detail is actually pretty good.
>>
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Working through my backlog, in various stages of done

[Spoiler]I have green stuff otw [/spoiler]
>>
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>>52534924
>>52533428

Well huge thanks to the two of you, suddenly my inspiration just burst into high gear and the project leapt from decorating a looted basilisk to a diorama.
>>
>>52535456
Fucking ace.
>>
>>52535768
S I P B O Y S
>>
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Mistakes were made.
>>
>>52535818
>TFW your conversion gains sentience and realises the waking nightmare that is existence
>>
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>>52535456
Lucky fucking bastard. Most of those kits are $30 each.
>>
>>52535818
Shou'd've remove's excess insignia before assembly, otherwise 5/5 Stands.
>>
>>52535888
>excess insignia

Like what?

Mostly the body is glue together. Everything else is just blu-tacked on to see how it all goes together. There's some little changes here and there, but the overall is pretty much as shown. Probably put a holster on him and an aguila buckle on the belt to cover the holes, and replace some Chaos markings with cruxes.
>>
>>52535961
Well are you going with the khornate shoulder's style, the custodes head insignia or loyalist fist insignia?

Mixed messages.

> Probably put a holster on him and an aguila buckle on the belt to cover the holes, and replace some Chaos markings with cruxes.
That'd do it, maybe see if you can make him a skull crotchplate.
>>
>>52535818
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUhVCoTsBaM

Now you just need two more.
>>
>>52536045
>khornate shoulder

What's so Khorne about it? Sure, it's a bit rough, but I don't see anything particularly heretical about it. I'm more worried about the Chaos star hanging from his belt at the back, which I'm gonna replace with a crux. I might look into fitting some wings on the shoulder pad, if I can find ones that fit well enough.
>>
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>>52536184
>What's so Khorne about it?
Well couldn't see it face on, but it looked like the one with a khorne symbol embossed into it, though it might be the skullcrushers that have those.

Though it was this one.

Not well versed enough in the khorne lie to tell all the bloodearthskullwrathmurdederflenserslayercrushers apart.
>>
>>52530312
abbadon has a shinier finish than black primer. it's a subtle difference.
>>
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Some mild contemptor conversion to make it more Night Lordsy
>>
>>52526993
>High definition miniatures

Fucking kill me.
>>
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>>52535441

How can you fail at such a basic thing as taking proper photos? Are you a blind hedgehog or something
>>
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I am planning on painting my shadow war armageddon similar color to this. My idea is to undercoat brown, use hairspray, then use bone undercoat and scrape off some with a wire brush and hot water. But I dont think this is just straight bone. Is this onced-over with a super thinned down flesh wash, or is it mabye some weathering powder? I dont have experience with weathering powder. Either way I am trying to save time so I can streak all the rivets with rust and not spend 2 days doing the project.
>>
>>52536576
3.2 mb and sideways,

Kill yourself.
>>
>>52536624
mostly to indicate the difference between the simpler miniatures and the more detailed versions.

In their context anything made by Kingdom Death would be a "HD miniature"
>>
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>>52535456
>20$
>3 heavy weapon teams, 2 units of 10 guardsmen and a unit of scouts

Holy fucking shit.
>>
>>52536877
*AND a motherfucking basilisk
>>
>>52536877
Not even teams, squads. That's 3 teams per box.
>>
>>52536764
>wire brush
it'll strip it to the plastic, toothbrush will work find with hairspray technique.
>>
>>52535456
Nice anon, if you sell those space marine scouts and/or exchange them for an imperial guard command squad you'll have a pretty nice functional army.
>don't even play 40k

Now you've a perfect opportunity to start. :D
>>
>>52536962
what about horsehair. i have tried a toothbrush and it is either too hard to scrape and can cause parts to come off or I am doing something wrong because those bristles have to basically be flattened out to do anything.
>>
>>52536948
Wait for real? So I have NINE heavy weapons teams? Jesus....
>>
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>>52526956
current progress: watching every Cronenberg flim while trying to finish these goddamn rangers
>>
>>52533090

One easy method is to put a trim around the edges. Like on space marine shoulder pads, for example.

If in doubt when adding detail, my answer is usually to look at examples from real life. Get a load of photos of military vehicles, especially early twentieth century ones.

This article has some good tips...

https://tamiyabase.com/blog/scratch-building/202-scratchbuilding-pt-9.html
>>
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>>52537074
>>52537085

anyone got speed painting tips? I'm struggling here
>>
>>52537066
Well, it reads "squad" on the box and that's the one with 3 teams. The box with "team" is the one with a single team (2 dudes, 1 base, all the guns).

You can, without magnets, just extra bodies and bases, make a mortar team, missile launcher team and a HB/AC/LC team per set, since none of those use the same bits. Well, the missile launcher uses the bipod you use on the mortar, but it doesn't really need it. So technically you can make 9 mortar teams, 9 missile teams and 9 HB/AC/LC teams. If you get some gunner arms (vehicle crew ones work too) and tripods from a 3rd party like Anvil Industries (I think they make tripods), you can use the rest of your heavy weapons as well. That's 45 heavy weapons teams.
>>
>>52537128
Prime, base, dip, colour lenses, matte varnish, touch up lenses with gloss varnish.
>>
>>52528925
AH! Spoiler that shit! I just about had a heart attack. Nice job though
>>
>>52526956
Hey /tg/ working on some terrain and my question is how do you seal it?

I mixed together water and PVA glue and brushed it onto the base then sprinkled fine basalt onto it and I'm gonna flock tomorrow but when sealing it do I wait for it to dry then brush more water and PVA over the flock and basalt? Thanks for the help in advance
>>
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my Custodian Dreadnought conversion. It's WIP. It just needs a big cleanup.

speaking of which, how do I de-gloss something?

My transfers all have a shine to them, and one of my washes left glossy marks all over the red shoulder pads.
>>
>>52537188
Jesus fuck....I...I think I went in over my head Kek.

Any links to 3rd party? I might actually try this if only to have a project to keep me entertained while I save up to start malifaux
>>
>>52537583
White vinegar with you waterslide water, softens them up and makes them conform better to surfaces as well.

Matte varnish can also be used after the fact.
>>
>>52537612
Here's tripods:
http://anvilindustry.co.uk/Regiments/regiments-heavy-support-weapons/regiments-heavy-weapon-tripod
>>
>>52537583
You matte varnish it. Better to gloss the whole thing then matte the whole thing if you want to protect it.
>>
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>>52537583
Non sideways edition
>>
>>52537751
Sorry to but your balls... but them lascannons be rolled outta alignment and in the same direction even bot to different degrees and now you'll never unsee it
>>
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>>52537751
>when that sister of silence takes off her armour and it's NOT what you've been expecting
>>
>>52537751
He looks splendid my boy
>>
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>>52533625
>That model was never made intro finecast. If you have a resin one it's a recast.

I dunno man, I only ordered it straight from the GW website. Guess they're dealing in their own recasts now.
>>
>>52535796
I also found the bottom half of a bent over gretchin, would it be too silly if it was hanging out the muzzle of the gun?
>>
How do I know what wash to try?
Also , doesn't the wash get covered up by layer paints making it unnoticeable?
I'm a painting newb
>>
>>52538250
the breach, maybe

the muzzle would be too silly
>>
>>52538275
Wash goes on last

Colour depends on what you are "washing".

If it's lazy shading then brown for warm colour/effect, black for cold.
>>
>>52538328
Not always, I'll wash last for metals, but even then I'm still probably getting an edge highlight in.
For regular paint jobs it's usually
>base>wash>layer>layer>highlight
>>
>>52537328
what does "dip" mean?
>>
>>52538545
its when you take a model and hold it by the base while you submerge the entire figure in a pot of paint.
>>
Does anyone have the image with all the chapters? I'd like to create a small team for Armageddon but not sure what chapter to pick.
>>
How long do you wait between painting? Is there a set time or something?

As in
>spray prime
>wait X
>base coat
>wait X
>next coat
>wait x
>wash
>wait x

Etc etc
>>
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>>52538585
>all the chapters
Nowhere near.

Half of the successor chapters are just namedrops with no livery ever made.

That said, this is the most complete I know.
>>
>>52537507
Help pls
>>
>>52538670
>TFW Raven guard has the lowest quality geneseed and yet more successors than salamanders, Wolves, and iron hands combined

>>52538713
If there's no exposed foamboard, gloss then matte varnish.
>>
>>52536576
I really like it. The helbrute head looks great!
>>
>>52538651
Just wait until it's dry, washes tend to take about 30 minutes though
>>
>>52536576
Drill dem barrals mang, drill ALLA dem!

And speaking of drilling, lotta chops and gouges but not a lotta bullet holes.
>>
>>52538670
Wow they really put a lot of thought into the colours of those BA successors.
>>
>>52538889
Well they were all founded by people afflicted by the same depression/homicidal rage.

All but one, and I bet you can't guess which...
>>
>>52538670
I recognize all but these Chapters
>Angles of Iron
>Night Watch
>Guardians of Celeres

Anybody know where they are supposedly from?
I mean I recognize even the Yellow Jackets as winning entry of a competition a few years back, but these other ones I never heard of before.
>>
>>52539052
Adeptus Astartes: Successor Chapters (Limited Release Booklet)
>>
>>52538744
thanks. I'm using the plastic movement trays from warhammer. I imagine its the same method?
>>
>>52533437
Ah that Northern Ireland one brings me back, thanks!
>>
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>>52538082
The. model. was. never. released. in. resin.

You sure it wasn't the pic related?
>>
>>52539106
yea.
>>
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>>52535768
Mind sharing how you got your green on the big guys?

It looks amazing.

Also, great sip choice
>>
>>52539260
I smear shit all over them, that's how I get them to look like turds.
>>
>>52539213
I'm pretty sure that model was part of the made-to-order range, and they used resin for that stuff, I think.
>>
>>52539416
Made To Order models are all metal.
>>
>>52539416
Can no one be bothered to check the website? It's direct order only but does not have resin mentioned in it's description. It's metal only.
>>
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>>52539416
>I'm pretty sure that model was part of the made-to-order range, and they used resin for that stuff

Aaaand you didn't contact them, despite there not existing a single fucking picture of a resing sorcerer, and get your free 2nd metal model becaausee.....?
>>
>>52539260
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AckvdGbk4w
>>
>>52539477
>>52539488
>>52539489
don't bother with him, it's either a troll or a liar
>>
>>52535818

What are those powerfists from? Especially the right handed one.
>>
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>>52535456
Hot damn, anon. You got a story to share with us.
>>
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Just finished my layers of blue. Time to fill in the other areas that are gonna want nuln oil and get em all at once.

Have to catch up on the backpack. Undercoated it before work for tonight.
>>
>>52539509
Thats a more helpful answer if nothing else
>>
>>52539509
Great taste anon, no one talk about Boosh or any of the other great surreal early noughties British comedy programs now (Darkplace, Snuff Box, Boosh, etc).
>>
>>52539625
Well I'm permanently damaged, a youth spent with python re--runs and my big crush bringing the entire league of gentlemen series along on the class skiing trip.

No surprise I'm neck deep in Orks.
>>
my abaddon black managed to turn into some kind of jelly. I tried adding medium to it, but it doesn't seem to soften it up. Can I still save it and if so, is it even worth to do so?
>>
>>52539527
Left is an assault squad one, right a BA tactical one (filed off the blood drop under the winged skull).
>>
>>52539800
did you leave it open overnight?
>>
>>52539828

the lid was crammed full of paint so it didn't close properly
>>
>>52539872
>not transferring your pots to droppers
You have nobody to blame but yourself.
>>
tips for powerfist effects?
>>
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>>52540016
>>
>>52539934
Yeah, I was realizing that while poking the jelly. Are generic soft plastic dropper bottles fine or is there something I should watch out for? (plastic fucking with the paint somehow for example)
>>
>>52540133
Just rinse them out thoroughly to ensure there's no mold release agnet inside.
>>
>>52539079
>Adeptus Astartes: Successor Chapters (Limited Release Booklet)
Interesting. From what I can tell it looks like that was part of a limited edition for one of the codecies.

Is there a pdf floating around or do you know what's in that booklet?
Sounds like a revamped version of Insignium Astartes.
>>
>>52530414
You sir, have obviously never had to deal with Forgeworld :/
>>
>>52540190
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/309546-index-astartes-successor-chapters-gallery/

There a picture list here.
>>
>>52540190
>Is there a pdf floating around or do you know what's in that booklet?
Oh and it's just a picture book that came with the CE of the SM codex.
>>
>>52540291
>http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/309546-index-astartes-successor-chapters-gallery
Thank you!

At the same time I feel stupid cause that was the first link that came up on my google search, but I figured BnC is nothing but SM talk, so I ignored it.

Thanks again. I'm off to brush up on my autism.
>>
>>52540377
>I figured BnC is nothing but SM talk, so I ignored it.
It's a good site as long as you're onyl there for pictures, ignore all mentions of lore and rules, they are even worse than /40kg/ at that.
>>
>>52540434
Dunno about that. BnC used to be a regular hangout for me some years ago.
Back then it was really good.
Had some really useful information, especially in regards to writing your own DIY chapter, to make sure nothing collides with official lore.

Haven't been a regular for some time though.


On a sidenote, did anyone else notice that some of the badges of the successor chapters they feature in the Successor Chapters thing are apparently based off of their old school painting guides' tips on combining decals?
Pretty neat.

They even have the one where they painted over the Dark Angel decal's sword to make it look like a robed figure.
Too specific to be a coincidence really.
>>
Is liquid Greenstuff supposed to be chunky? I think my pot was dry before I even opened it because I had to add water to be able to get it on a brush.
>>
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>>52540016
You mean like this? Cause I dunno, but I do like this type of effect.
>>
>>52541697
It's a putty not a paint.

Hard to say by just reading your post if you had bad luck with the pot or just no clue what you are doing.
In any case liquid GS shrinks, adding water is probably gonna make that an even bigger issue.
>>
>>52541697
liquid gstuff is supposed to be pretty thick. however, if its just a giant chunk, and you can't get any of it on a brush/tool, than its a bad pot, that tends to happen a lot with gw's shit designs.
>>
>>52526956
hey guys, a couple days ago i said I was doing a tutorial on how to paint light colors, starting with tans. Im nearly finished (a lot of school work came up) and need your guys help to finish it

If you guys could share some pics of really poorly done light colored miniatures, that would be great.

Am looking for light colored minis were the color is too thin. a mini were the paint is too thick, and mini were there are brush strokes everywhere, all in light colors (yellows, tans, whites, ect)

if you guys could help me out that would be great.
>>
>>52539536
gold looks great and so does the blue, but the sword is in some serious need of some blending, those highlights, mainly in the middle, are way to thick.
>>
>>52537128
dont

you will regret it later when you get better at painting and will spend more time fixing all of your mistakes you made.
>>
>>52542168
It wasn't even a putty. After I added a little water and stirred the pot, it became more like a putty. I know it shrinks because of Dunc's video, which is also why I was expecting a different kind of consistency. I wish I had taken a picture before heading to work.

>>52542196

That's what I was afraid of. I was expecting a kind of runny silly putty.
>>
is there any reason as to why gw still uses pots vs using dripper bottles? is it just because they are set in their ways?

please no conspiracy theories
>>
>>52542441
my guess is because they hope people accidentally tip the pots over and spill the paint so they run out faster and have to buy more.
>>
>>52542441
not really, no. This is kinda a conspiracy theory, but kinda not-gw wants you to buy more and more paint, which is why its so pricey for what you get, and why its packaged so badly. Sometimes air comes in even if the pot is fully sealed after opening, leading to dry paint after a few weeks of being completely sealed. Forcing them to buy more paints.
>>
>>52542474
>>52542489

you see i honestly do not believe this. When i spilled my first wash I never bought a single one after that and learned how to make my own.

I feel like GW does not do it thinking you will run out of paint faster. There are so many alternatives to GW paint that i can not honestly believe they would purposely create a defective product.
>>
>>52542269
Thanks, I think I did go a bit overboard with the white and lost too much yellow. I was afraid to go back on it though in case I make it worse with a thin your paints situation.
>>
>>52542524
you don't realize that there are a lot of kids and parents who buy up gw's products, and they do commonly market to kids. (this is why anything knife related on warhammer tv has them talking about asking parents permission first) obviously they aren't trying to make a completely defective product, but there would be no other reason for them to use the shitty pot design in 2017.
>>
>>52542524
It's a more common business practice than one would think.
>>
>>52542555
heres how to fix it without getting too thick

take your base color and go ahead and cover up those white highlights in the middle, then after that is completly dry add in a little glaze medium and work up the color to the middle getting steadily lighter and lighter. as long as you use a lot a thin layers (about 50% thinner of what you would normally use) you should be fine

>>52542583
the thing is GW has to realize that people in this hobby are savvy due to it being a craft hobby. Its not like with DELL were the average buyer does not know shit about what they are really getting. People in this hobby i feel are more conscious of the whole buisness as a whole due to the amount of investment.
>>
>>52542583
This. Worked as a mechanic. You'd see the shifty fucks do everything from remove a few fuses to changing out wiped blades to older stuff. Anything to have customers come back
>>
>>52542441
>is there any reason as to why gw still uses pots vs using dripper bottles?
Dropper bottles aren't really necessary to, let alone desired by the bulk of their consumer base.

S'not much to it other than that. The people who want them just purchase/fill their own or go to vallejo.
>>
>>52542555
forgot to add to >>52542628

dont use pure white as a layer, it wont work, not sure if thats what you did there but it looks like you did.

instead use a really light / bright orange as the most dramatic highlight, pute white 9/10 does not mix with the color scheme people generally try to implement.
>>
>>52530426
>Go on ebay
>Buy a bitz lot for nothing
>Construct some dudes
>Practice
>End up learning a load of stuff
>Investment: Pocket Change

What I did.

Some people recommend getting a bag of plastic army men and giving in a go too. I dislike it though the detail on them can be rubbish and demoralizing.

Once you get to a reasonable standard you stop worrying.
>>
>>52530954
>Triple Helix

I like those guys.

Avoid at all cost: Wayland Games.

Quickest Post time: Gift for Geeks.
>>
>>52542804
>Avoid at all cost: Wayland Games.
Can only support this.

3 months to fail to ship a pack of datacards "no longer in print", meanwhile GW's online shop nor my local store had no issue getting a copy.
>>
>>52542665
Yeah y'know I sure did. Maybe Ill mix a lighter shade of the yellow.
>>52542628
I definitely went thinner than normal, but I think you're right that the medium would help make it smooth and even.

I've never done anything like this - was desperately trying to emulate the dunc.
>>
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The Emperor continues to protect.

WIP individuals for IG Kill Team.
>>
>>52535818
LETS BEYBLADE
>>
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>>52530426

Like >>52530556 said, you gotta start somewhere. The left is one of my first models and the one on the right is one of my more recent. You gotta start somewhere man, and then one day you'll look back and see how far you've progressed.
>>
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>>52542762
>Some people recommend getting a bag of plastic army men and giving in a go too
I didn't find it too bad.
>>
>>52537128
>Speed Painting

Option 1:

Lean spray painting techniques - base, wash, angle spray, touch up done.


Option 2:

Use DIP from army painter. It's basically a varnish-shade that gives you low-end table top quality quickly.


Option 3:

Utilise your time better.

Paint batches of 3-4.

People think painting takes forever because they do one miniature in about 3 hours. They over spend time trying to be neat and master brush control and shaky hands.

However you can mass paint 4-7 of them in the same time really well or 6-10 average and it teaches you better control in the long run.
>>
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slow painter more of a wip lurker then a active poster
plz no bully what you think?
touch ups needed teeth eyes and player numbers still need to be done
But how did I do?
>>
>>52543025
Indeed,

You were doing a batch for something IIRC. Did you do more?
>>
>>52543071
>option 3

Different anon, but that's what I'm trying to do now. I have a bunch of night lords to paint before I can put shoulders/heads on them (the weapons are magnetized), and I'm thinking about just skipping the lightning for now. The blue is simple enough. Honestly, though. I'm debating just sticking the shoulders in anyway.
>>
>>52543145
I haven't gotten around to it because i'm running low on agrax earthshade and want to use it on something more worthwhile.
>>
>>52543076
Not bad anon.

Pro's -

Complementary colours - 3 Hues + Black and white = winner
Simple - Not insulting to the eye or too chaotic
Clean - Can't see any errors

Cons
Flat in places - could do with a shade to add depth

Patchy static grass as if playing on a cut lawn - When you apply static grass give it a blow and most of it will stand up then fill in gaps with things like sand and weathering pigment.

Weathering is messy - You need to add depth to the weathered parts. Accent them all with a black paint.


Otherwise good effort IMO.
>>
>>52543158
I really recommend to not batch heads and what not separately unless its a really big (20+) batch

They are fiddly and if left too long can look slightly off.
>>
>>52526993
The only thing I don't like about that newer bunch of Wizkids models is some of them have quite pronounced mold lines. The Griffin is the only one I saw that was instantly noticeable with the lines around the talons.

Other than that, really like them.
>>
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I can't stop painting nurgle anons, please send help.
>>
>>52543430
Fucking hell man, the gloss on the pustules is disgusting. I love it.
>>
>>52543430
I can't stop converting Orks.
>>
>>52543359
I kinda wish they didn't come pre-primed so you could clean them up and prime them yourself.
>>
>>52530606
Where can I find recasts?
>>
>>52543213
thanks man :)
dont know what I was worried about
>>
Progressing working on my Witch Hunter Mordheim warband for our club games.
Need to come back through and start highlighting and then some OSL work (noob at this, especially with fire)
>>
>>52543470
painting in a little bit of blood for the blood god whilst Nurgle's rot is still wet makes for the perfect bloody pus effect
>>
>>52543588

Also because I suck at working on one project at a time. A Reaver titan to join the family
>>
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>>52543676
>Also because I suck at working on one project at a time

iktf. Currently working on
>Bolt Action
>SAGA
>Tamiya 1:35 tanks
>40k Orks
>Imperial Guard
>Space Marines
>WHFB Skeletons
>TWD All Out War minis

please end this suffering
>>
>>52543974
and a farmhouse and a balsa wood shed
>>
>>52543676
>Tiny Titans
Where'd you get those?
>>
>>52543274

So then what? Should I just pop the heads on now? They're night lords, so I'll be painting skull paint and shit.
>>
>>52544068
Not him.

You basically need to find a forum, lurk there for a long while, make friends, get introduced to someone else on recommendation, and then submit yourself to a mailing list / send someone and email / receive a online catalog.

The production of current epic (I think out of Australia, though the currency might just be to throw GW off the trail) is very illegal, but absolutely stunning. Their quality is rivaled only by Forgeworld, and it is an absolute crime that these people have not been inducted as a recognized part of the company / inducted as a sister firm to GW as a whole. They are FANTASTIC at what they do, and are able to retail them at reasonable prices for the quality they provide.

Tl;dr. You get them on Ebay, rarely, or you know a guy who can introduce you, because GW are fucking crybabies who resent the fact that other people can do their job better than them.
>>
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>>52544234
>>
>>52544068
This is the way to do it >>52544234

There are quite a few places around the world doing it.
But overall for short term, hope they appear on ebay
>>
>>52536755
>Model is in direct light.
>Camera is a little shaky but stable.
>Firmly on the ground
>Only missing the white back drop.

Anon, plz.
>>
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>>52544234
>>
>>52544484
>white back drop
Batter than no back drop, but only that.

White ruins colour temperature and cause the flash to reflect.

Best are a matte tan, grey or ideally grey to blue gradient.
>>
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>>52542242
>If you guys could share some pics of really poorly done light colored miniatures, that would be great.

How about one where thick paint and fuzzy primer combined to form something that should be locked away in the Black Tower?
>>
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>>52542926

Purple and red?!? Absolute madman!
>>
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>>52526956

WIP I need some advise.

I've never used magnets before but I'm about to order some now.
All the guides I can find including the one in the op recommends using strength N50 and above but all I can find are N42 and N35.

Do I really need N50 or what?
>>
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>>52533090
>>52533437
>>52533486
>>52537085

I just wanted to let you guys know that I have bondo and sanded my taurox stand in. Now I will try to add detail to the model.

C&C welcome
>>
>>52545121
Sorry mate but that just looks like the world's worst canoe with wheels stuck on it.
>>
Usual feel of too many projects. Help me out a bit. I have:

Black Templars
Khorne Bikers
Bloodletters
Magnus/Tsons
Knight Atrapos
and some Grey Hunters

All at various stages of painting. Which to continue first?
>>
>>52545121
I commend the effort, but it looks like it has nothing to live for
>>
>>52545418
Which are you most excited about painting? I'm sure there's some things more relevant to your army than others, but you'll make more progress on something you actually want to do.

I got more done on guilliman in a day than I did on these deathwatch I've been procrastinating for two weeks.
>>
>>52539536
why is everyone painting this model the most difficult way possible?

Literally everyone i've seen has primed gold then painted over the top... is this GW's guide or something?
>>
>>52542269
blue armour is flat single coat, uneven
>looks great
sword has actual blending applied to it rather than a basecoat
>sword needs some blending

get your eyes checked.
>>
>>52545121
reminds me of those south African bomb proof trucks and AFVs
>>
What the hair spray technique a Death Guard anon was talking about? What does it do to a model?
>>
>>52546103
Reminds me of a Pinewood Derby racer.
>>
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>>52526956
>>
>>52545811
Templars it is then. Thanks.
>>
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Hello /wip/
Been lurking these threads and finally made my first purchase to paint my first minis , got myself a pack of 3 ultramarines becouse i figured they would be an easy start for someone who has never painted before
Just finished assembling and priming (the primed was clumped up and had to thin it down on a pallete w/ water)
Also, anyone has the photografing guide? Will post some better pics once i get my hands on something better tan my phone's camera
>>
>>52532011
Actually, they are yellow because of the inclusion of a family of catalysts known as diisocyanates, which, given proper encouragement from atmospheric gas, can turn themselves into cyanide. But then again, so can Apple seeds, which are point of fact more potent. But hey, evil slant eye wants to poison you cause your friend said so, Chum.
>>
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How's my greenstuffing?
Still waiting on the heads to come in
>>
>>52546187
Mold lines on both arms.
>>
I'm working on a Fire Prism, and I was wondering if there were guides for painting the crystal? I've looked everywhere.
>>
can somebody please help me paint black robes, every time I highlight with grey it looks really sloppy
>>
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can someone tell me how im doing with my fine detail highlighting on this helmet?
im pretty new to this and i cant seem to get my lines as nice as i want
also dont worry about me not using primer, i wasnt planning on finishing this guy just wanted to try out the model
(thats not my finger btw i cant take good pics so my gf did it)
>>
>>52545121

Don't listen to them, this is the bravest boy I've ever seen.
>>
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>>52546876
other pic
>>
>>52546876
I think the pinkish red doesn't work with the orange highlights you're using, it's pretty neat though.
>>
>>52546944
i just use the citadel paint guide with a twist

base is mephiston red
then i used really watered down khorne red on the cranium part
shade with carroburg crimson
then highlight with evil sunz scarlet

i guess the khorne red throws it off a little
>>
>>52545948

The Dunc said spray gold and then paint the blue, so yes that's exactly why.
>>
>>52545948
how would you do it
>>
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Finished off a Branchwych conversion. Apart from some slightly fuzzy primer related issues I think it's turned out ok.
>>
>>52539536
fix up some of that gold before you move on
>>
>>52545975
what?the blue is even and the gold is too, also that sword looks like someone drew on it with fucking crayon

how can you be this reatrded?
>>
Hey /tg/
I have easycast clear resin, a little bit of oyumaru, and 1/4th of a pack of milliput.
Can someone tell me how to make a mold for casting up noise marines? I'm an idiot and tried using milliput and pressmolds with the oyumaru
>>
I goof'd on my grail knights... Added too many colors per model... think these are fixable? they're plastic so I can't strip 'em very easily. I want to limit them to two main colors per model... Think it's doable?

How would I go repainting them, if I have to water down paints so much? When watered down, they don't cover other colors well...
>>
>>52547281
>>
>>52547281
Brotip

Saturated bright colors are shit. They should be used as accents
>>
>>52547306
this
>>
>>52547306
So.. what do you suggest? Should I go for darker subdued colors for the main barding? Can I strip these? All plastic..
>>
>>52547281
Thin brown paint down til it's a wash.
Cover everything to dull it down.
>>
>>52547329
Yes. Either darker or less saturated

You can strip plastic by tossing it in Simple Green or Superclean
>>
>>52547281
I've told you before, you can strip paint using detol or simple green.
it seems like you keep posting the same pictures of the same few models, ask about stripping plastic then totally ignore any advice anyone gives you
>>
>>52547333
wait, seriously? are you trolling or will that work?
>>
>>52547360
it's worth a shot.
also, you could just put it all in a sonic cleaner with denatured alcohol to strip it. then use an electric toothbrush
>>
>>52547360
itll look like shit but better than those colors
>>
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>>52547345
>>52547353

Sorry, I've been away from these models since my last posting, busy with work, and got extremely discouraged from their result. I'll try this guy's suggest first: >>52547333

If it doesn't work, then I'll Simple Green them... I do appreciate the advice man. I'd love mine to look like pic related...
>>
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not too long ago someone posted a tutorial on cardboard ruins

thought it looked neat so i tried it out
>>
>>52547389
Simple green is not the best way to go. And if you want them to look like that, you want to use colored washes and work your way down.
>>
>>52547421
work my way down? Do you mean, wash the models as they are now, and then try go "dull'' down the current colors? I feel like it's more work to do this, and should probably just lay down the cash to buy a new unit...
>>
>>52547453
Yes. And for fuck's sake anon, don't do that.
>>
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>>52547482
?? yes to which, wash and dull the colors? or yes to just find buy a new unit? I may not use real grail knights, they're really expensive, I may use some Perry Mini's. pic related
>>
>>52547557
I didn't paint these btw, that pic is from the perry mini's site.
>>
>>52547557
Wash the models as they go now. and do not buy a new unit. Learn from your mistakes, learn how to work them.
>>
>>52527307
How about you don't buy from china you fucking cheap ass
>>
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Is this what I would need to do this tutorial?
https://www.amazon.com/Builder-Liquid-Latex-Rubber-473ml/dp/B001E1XBLO
>>
>>52547611
to be fair forge world can be just as bad as that sometimes, I guess it's less of a ballache to get forgeworld to replace stuff though.
>>
>>52547557
the models here >>52547389 are painted via layering.
If you snoop around online you'll probably even be able to find the old painting guides and WD's with the relevant articles.
There's an archive online somewhere with which articles were in which WD.

>>
>>52547642
to be fair, forge world actually designed and made the model and paid people so you should support the company that makes the stuff you love
>>
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tl;dr my friends agreed I could take blight drones instead of bikers should I drop one of the blight drones and one of the squads of havocs for an allied 35 man zombie squad with a sorc?
>>
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>starting to do some macragge/ultramar PDF lads
>drop vox guy, my favourite mini so far
>his chainsword arm falls off
huh
>>
>>52547703
>china order cost $50 total
>order from FW would cost $166+SH

Maybe if FW didn't charge laughably outrageous prices, I would buy from them more often.
>>
I know it's a bad idea to post this here, but I'm willing to give it a shot.

Painting blogs; which site has the best community for 'em: Tumblr or Blogspot?

Thought about tracking my progress and figured I could probably meet people who are into painting plastic people (can't find any locally).
>>
>>52547833

That's better than the chainsword arm breaking.
>>
>>52548080
>forge world actually designed and made the model and paid people

Do you know how to read, dipshit?

GEE I WONDER WHY THIEVES SELL SHIT FOR SO CHEAP FROM THE BACK OF THEIR VANS

GEE I WONDER WHY CHINESE BOOTLEGS SELL DVDS FOR SO MUCH LESS

Telling someone they should "support FW" if all they care about is getting the best deals is stupid, but complaining about how "FW charges so much more" or "FW prices are outrageous" is EVEN STUPIDER. Get a fucking job, you child.
>>
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>>52547639
well... i use tin silicone, in big two part jugs. latex will take forever to make a usable mold, and your first two are guaranteed to suck hard as you learn. I started with the From the Warp technique

http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html

to the master of the forge style.

http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

honestly never tired the latex way with much before, im mostly in it for the bitz, FW needs to offer both weapon load outs for sure.

oh and get milliput and mix it with greenstuff, millput is super stick at first, but sculpts like a dream, adding greenstuff makes it usable fast.
>>
Loaded brush technique, how the fuck does it work
>>
>>52547111
Thanks. I was literally just deciding whether to do that now or wait till after I nuln.
>>
>>52548184
>GW prices are already expensive
>FW is even more expensive

I have a job and have been living on my own for 8 years, thanks. I hate GWs prices, but I still pay for them. I have 3 HH boxes, but I can not justify paying MORE for a single contemptor chassis and some infantry bits as 60 dudes, 5 terminators, and a contemptor. That is ridiculous.
>>
You guys like figurines so I figured I could ask here instead of spawning my own thread. A while back I saw some standard issue 30mm bases, however they had a clear see through plastic end poking out from the base so that people could slide in bits of paper to act as low budget player characters. Does anyone know where I could find some?
>>
>>52548554
Pathfinder pawns?
>>
>>52548664
not exactly what I was looking for, but it's a good start. thanks anon
>>
>>52547703
I'm from Australia. GW gouges us like there's no tomorrow so fuck them, I'll buy from the Chinese.
>>
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>>52548226
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/

i'll add this one too, check out his work, its really great stuff.
>>
>>52548938
>that liquid blustuff mold

Holy fuck. Is it really that easy to cast shoulder pads? I am assembling my legion shit and I would LOVE to be able to put a symboled shoulder on all my dudes.
>>
How's the Privateer P3 black primer?
>>
>>52548226
>>52548938

Poorfags get out of my hobby
>>
I haven't painted in years. Always used to prime with black, but now I want to paint bright-ass Ironjawz. What's the differences in painting with white? Any extra steps, or is base -> shade -> layer -> highlight fine?
>>
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Finally finished my broadside

Well, almost. I still have to do the missile system. But it's been ages since I posted anything
>>
>>52549283
>tau player
>painting something

???
>>
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I like painting
Heads on magnets!
>>
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>>52549290
To be fair, I haven't even played yet
>>
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I suck
>>
>>52549304
They look cool. Very clean. A little boring, though. I know the Fire Warriors are rank and file, but still.
>>
I'd rather play with a paintfag or lorefag any day over a waacfag.

Being around people who like the story and hobby is so much better than playing just to win.
>>
>>52549283
>>52549304

>finished

base those shits man
>>
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>>52549351
>base those shits man
Not until every single unit of my initial army is done. I'm going to base everything at the same time so it looks as coherent as possible.
>>
New to panting. I'm about to head into GW. What paints should I get if I'm painting standard army dudes and some horror monsters? Is it worth getting a starter set?
>>
>>52549293
Nice blue.
>>
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>>52549283
Looks nice. Consider using light weathering and chipping to add some depth to its crispy perfection.
>>
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>should be working on my army for sunday
>instead decide to fix 5 year old daemon Prince that I won't even be using

First time using liquid Greenstuff, though liquid isn't what I'd call it. I think it was a bad bottle, but I did what I could.
>>
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Still suck messed the face a bit
>>
>>52549807
Hey I have the same brush cleaner!
>>
>>52549526
Man that model is just the worst.
>>
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I've tried to make diffrent skintones for tzaangors with washes and inks. I'd like to say with 2-3 tones for whole army. Which one looks best for you?
>>
This is private "Cool Dude". He's here to kick ass and chew astro-gum, and he's all out of gum.

He's part of my veteran squad I completed yesterday night!

I'm extremely happy about the shades, the rest is "okay". All in all I'm really proud of him.
>>
>>52550132
Blue looks fine to me!
>>
>>52550185
Oh, hell yeah. His shades are awesome. He might be a bad enough dude to save the emperor.
>>
>>52550030

I tried.

Got these chinaman dragon wings pinned into a position I like, while still being removable. Now I just need to do extensive green stuffing to fill the gaps. Fun.
>>
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>>52550380

Picture would help.
>>
Painting newb returning

Got some nuln oil to try washing, wow does washing make details pop.
Is there anyway to prevent or reduce the wash leaving smudges where I don't want it? Like flat areas between crevices
>>
>>52550402
Yeah.

Either don't wash large, flat aeras or go back and reapply your base coat after washing.
>>
>>52550402
>>52550449
Also you can go for reces shading only.
>>
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>>52550185
>>52550347
Is my vox guy a bad enough dude to watch Cool Dude saving the emperor?
>>
>>52550449
I figured something like that.
I washed this model too late, should've washed before finishing layers. Oh well, didn't know what washes were then, lesson learned
>>
>>52550132
>>52550190
Second the blue one. Maybe the best idea would be to go with a purple and a red one too so you basically have a gradient unit. Anything more than that would probably start looking messy.

Which washes did you use by the way?
>>
So, I've been looking into Chinese recasters and finally found CCoN's catalogue.

Are these prices in USD? If he charges shipping on top of that, it doesn't work out much better than just buying straight from forgeworld if you are in the UK. Looks like most of the prices are around 70% of RRP. You can find stuff cheaper than that on ebay.

For the added security of not dealing with some slant-eyed criminal and being able to send bits back if they are fucked up, I think I'll be sticking to legit sources unless I'm misreading things and it's in some other, cheaper currency.
>>
>>52546400
good luck and take you time painting those
>>
>>52546400
It's crazy how much better Space Marines look when one-handing their bolters.
>>
>>52550598
well idea with gradient seem good to me! Green and yellow will turn into pink ones to fit Tzeentch palette.

For schemes there were:
green: waywatcher green glaze -> biel-tan green wash
yellow: vallejo yellow ink -> feugan orange wash
blue: mix of gulliman blue glaze and vallejo purple ink -> duruchii violet wash
purple: vallejo purple ink (shit it strong and covers in no time) -> duruchii wash
red: vallejo red ink -> duruchii wash
>>
>>52547094
Not him but wouldn't it be easier to paint the blue then the gold?
>>
>>52549293
Does anybody know if his head fits onto the 54mm Artemis model?
>>
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>>52550387
>look at the wings
Anon, you glued them upside down.
>>
where should I go for a large human/elf head? only thing WHFB has are ogres and giant, and those are fucking ugly

I'm trying to convert Orion from WHFB

if you say "Reaper" i'll hit you in the face
>>
>>52551548
Try Reaper, maybe.
>>
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>>52551548
>>52551558
>he replies to himself

now that's something else
>>
>>52551323

They're 100% removable, not glued, and they have to be that way otherwise the joints wouldn't work at all.
>>
>>52543537
This.
They had a load at my FLGS and I was tempted..... but.... Why prime them if you're not even going to bother cleaning thr mold-lines off? I noticed them on most of them.

Nice and cheap though.
>>
>>52546187
Mold line down... centre of her face....

Paint job isn't too bad though.
>>
Ordered some plasma guns from GW.... This resin.. It's just improved Finecast(tm) isn't it? No bubbles, but it's so soft....
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