Gunpla/Plamo General

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New Due Date 10/31

Frame Arms Group Build

This time the idea is to build any Frame Arms, or Frame Arms Girl kit, and paint and customize it.

The rules are overall pretty simple, the base must be recognizable as FA or FA Girl, other than that there's no limit on what you can do.

Due Date: October 31st

Note: This is a prize build, there will be a prize provided by me, there will also be a mystery prize provided by another anon. That means that to enter, I need WIP pictures submitted before the due date. Simply email me some pictures of you working on it, I don't care at what point, as long as it's possible to tell where your final product came from.

Prize Pack:
MSG Free Style Bazooka
MSG Impact Knuckle
MSG Beast Sword
MSG Assault Rifle #2
Miscellaneous supplies

I'm probably going to add more, but I'll let those be a secret.

Email: [email protected]

I'm also available via IRC and Steam

>>6502994 #
I see. I've seen videos of people using them as a sort of gunk wash before, so I figured that was the primary use

>>6502994
Actually, it's a decent bit thicker than a panel wash. You can use it as one, but you really want to thin it a bit more first or else its really messy and a pain to clean up.

It's other use is as anon said, for weathering effects. Primarily things like streaking.

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>>6504444
>it's a decent bit thicker than a panel wash
No it's not, unless you stored it half-opened and the thinner evaporated maybe?

I have the bottle in front of me, it's exactly the same consistency as Tamiya panel wash. It's a tad too thin for streaking imo, but I suppose you can still use it for that.

I took a picture of two undisturbed bottles side by side, as you can see the Creos one has a little more pigment, but it doesn't feel any thicker in practice.

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>>6504490
I don't know about yours but the ones I've used have always been noticably thicker than the tamiya and always needed a few drops of enamel thinner to flow correctly as a wash, and they're like that from the moment I open them.

Maybe the thickness is a difference between colors as I mostly use browns.

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>>6504499
Weird.

>few drops of enamel thinner
Creos makes a special thinner for their Weathering color and Filter lines. I think it's odorless turp mostly, in any case it has almost no smell and it's supposed to be safer for plastic. I use it for clean up.

>>6504512
Eh, I just use a bottle of Testors enamel thinner that you can get like everywhere. Easier to get a hold of and I've never had any issues with it.

>>6491999
Hey Gelgoog Guy what is that dark green Tamiya paint back there?

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PLAMO

FUCKING

WHEN

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Man the victory core fighter is so tiny

What's everyone working on?

>>6504540
Unfortunately probably never.
>Guair and its upgrades never ever
>Kotobukiya Reg (using similar engineering to their Mega Man kits) never everer

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>>6504581
You never know.

Koto likes non-mainstream shit: they did MJP, ML, BreakBlade. Even Bandai did the Fool, they could pick up K&M if they wanted.

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>>6504059
>picture taken from directly above
>not reflecting the camera (or anything else for that matter)
You're apparently not familiar with Chinese soup spoons. There is a bend after the handle, so when you lay them upside down on a table like that, the flat bottom is not facing directly upwards, it's angled. Therefore, the flat surface is reflecting the ceiling at an approximately 10-15 degree angle, rather than the camera directly above it.

Recently I've wanted to experiment with pale or light colored panel lines on dark plastic. How do people do this? Do they just mix up acrylic paint, or is there an easy pre-made product for it? I'd prefer the latter, as mixing up the same shade every time can be a beast of a task (especially if you're trying to match an already-dried color).

>>6504630
Get a 0.1 marker of your preferred color.

>>6504633
That's...not going to do anything. A pale grey marker going onto black plastic just won't show up. Unless you mean a paint marker, which I've never seen a wide/diverse range of colors of (and have definitely never seen measured in mm sizes for the tips).

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>>6504642

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So, three way tie for the Seeker Aces RG Zeta paint job.

I'm doing Starscream first.

>>6504581
>>Kotobukiya Reg (using similar engineering to their Mega Man kits)

Shit, that would be awesome. Him and Riko would be a treat. And their designs do lend themselves quite readily to plamo engineering.

>>6504523
Dark Green 2 (XF70) specifically.

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I'm tired. Gonna go to sleep, it's almost midnight here.

>>6504730
oh my god

>>6504735
it's just a color test. It's one of my old ones with a broken arm.

Using it to get the paint mixes right. It's going to get stripped when i wake up.

Is the HGUC barbatos a good first kit for actually trying? I got a kit before, but I only ended up panel lining it.

>>6504767
I'm an idiot. HCIBO.

>>6504735
Post your work

>>6504730
Is that starscream?

>>6504665
Thank you very much. Tamiya makes a nice assortment of greens, I'm planning on using their Sky color soon on a build and have some other ones in my paint holder like the NATO green.

Anybody used Sky or NATO green to show me what they look like? Haven't tested them yet.

>>6504767
>>6504769
Actually trying what exactly? It's good for learning on, plenty of surface types and there's opportunity to use the pipes to test metallic paint.

>>6504795
I plan on painting detail using some acrylics that I already own, as well as possibly using a matte spray if I can get my hands on one sooner rather than later.

>6504208 (You)

>I have had no issues with mr surfacer 1200, but mr primer surfacer might be better. It seems to be more expensive so it would be weird if it wasn't.

I'm just concerned about Kotobukiya kits' tolerances tightening when I lay on two layers of primer before the paint, plus clearcoats. I've done what ever I can about it by sanding away some more allowance space (somewhere about a quarter of a milimeter or more?) , but there's no way for me to know unless I spray it all on.

So if Mr Surfacer 1200 (and/or maybe Mr Base White) is all that's needed instead of primer + surfacer + (base white) it would be a relief.

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>>6504745
>>6504773
i-it was shock from how good it looked...

>>6504813

Mask off pegs mate.

>>6504788
Gotcha: http://imgur.com/Yue3DOm

That's the full size picture.

>>6504882
>super thick smears
It won't look like that sprayed, it will be lighter.

>>6504888
Yep, definitely goes on lighter. I'll see about spraying some on a spoon or piece of paper tonight.

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My first Zaku!
I must admit, he was a pleasure to build!
Definetly gonna get myself some more Zaku in the future!

>>6504970
He was not supposed to be sideways...
Somethign weird happened here during upload

>>6504972
try opening it up with paint and save it again, always worked for me

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Anyone have a good recommendation on Tamiya colors to match the old Blue Destiny HGUC? The plastic colors on the old one were my favorite part of the kit, and I hate the washed out and nearly matchy blues on the new one.

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>>6504986
Did this work? Hopefully
Any good Zakus out there?
Or Zeon suits in general

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So it turned out that my dad had an airbrush for whatever reason. Pic related. I finally had the time, paint, and everything else needed to give it a shot and didn't like it at all. I'm new to airbrushing, but it just felt sloppy. The tube on the scion feed is just a bit too short, so to get the last bit of paint out you had to tilt it. Spraying was inconsistent from what I could tell as well
After looking online it's apparently cheap as shit. I knew that it likely would be since it's basically all plastic, but is it even worth trying to make it work or do I go out and get something like a Badger?

>>6505000
*siphon feed fuck me

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>>6505000
Back into the trash (or wherever you pulled it out of) it goes.

Get a dual action gravity feed if you want to enjoy the process. If you are cheap or unsure you can start with chink shit like Master but be prepared to getting inconsistent results.

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>>6505000
Samefag. I'm trying to do my own research here, but I'm having difficulty on the size. I think I narrowed down the particular model of airbrush to a Badger 100 medium head. 1/32-inch (0.8 millimeter) up to a 2 1/2-inch(63 millimeter) spray pattern. The problem is the reviewer on Amazon said it wouldn't control the air spray at all and I have no way of knowing if he was just a retard or what. Any thoughts?

>>6505059
>>6505141
I've heard that this was the recommended starter kit.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1504044484&sr=8-4&keywords=airbrush+set

>>6505166
I already have an air compressor and tank so all I need is the airbrush.

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>>6505000
>>6505059
Dual action airbrushes are needlessly complicated, get a Paasche single action, it's what all the old hands at ILM use, and it's proven that a single action is all you need for 99% of airbrush applications.

t. Adam Savage

I have an old 01 Gundam Wing HG 1/100 scale but he cant stand on his own anymore since the articulations are soft, is there a way to fix that?. Im reading a lot about super glue.

I read the guide and it has a lot on info on building but couldnt find anything about maintenance of the models

>>6505199
Adam also sprays lacquers in an enclosed environment, without a mask.

Just food for thought.

>>6505220
still kickin isnt he

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>>6504788
I realized too late my needle wasn't pushed in all the way, but here's dark green 2 sprayed.

>>6505220
>Adam also sprays lacquers in an enclosed environment, without a mask.
What does that have to do with using the right tool for the job?
Oh, nothing? Right, fuck off then.

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>>6505199
>muh single action

>>6505380
you sound mad

did i strike a nerve?

>>6505380
He clearly doesn't have the right tools for the job because ventilation and an air-filter are fucking 1&2 must have before you even think about buying an airbrush.

>>6505380
>I'M RIGHT STOP FUCKING ARGUING WITH ME REEE

So I primed about half of the parts I cut, sanded, and washed yesterday. I just hit it with a gray Tamiya primer aerosol outside, let it dry for about a minute, then brought it into my bathroom to dry further to avoid dust from getting into the primer with the bathroom fan running and door shut (apartment life). Is this a bad idea for any reason? The parts seem to have come out all right but I don't know if this will somehow fuck up my bathroom/the air in my apartment/the paint on the model once I hit it with something other than primer.

Also, I realized after a friendly anon pointed it out in the last thread, that brush painting Tamiya acrylics is a no-no, so I'm planning on picking up some aerosol paints to spray the parts with. Probably just black and white and maybe gray. I already have Tamiya primer and Tamiya flat clear coat, should I get Tamiya spray paints or is there something better? Also, for panel lining, should I pick up a marker or do you get better results with a different method? Not a huge fan of what the panel lining results I've seen so far from noobs fucking with markers.

First timer here btw in case it wasn't obvious, thanks for any tips.

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>>6505426
Pic of primed parts btw in case anyone wanted to see this (doubt it), I turned one piece in the corner upside down (unprimed side exposed) for contrast.

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how do you guys feel about this

>>6505436
pretty cool, wish it wasn't p-bandai but it shouldn't be too much

>>6505220
>Adam also sprays lacquers in an enclosed environment, without a mask.
>>6505403
>He clearly doesn't have the right tools for the job
>[citation required]

>>6505436
pretty bad.

I want to them to release F91 versions as normal releases instead of this non sense.

>>6505180
Test it out.

Although it is really good to get acquainted with a dual action.

>siphon

I would recommend using it only for priming since you can fill the whole jar and not have to worry too much.

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Fuck it. Finally going for it, lads. Been a long time since I've built anything, I'm excited.

>>6505220
Actually if you watch the tested videos, Adam's shop is heavily ventilated. He has fans above all of his work tables that he turns on when painting and dealing with toxic fumes.

>>6505462
Let me know how the build goes. I've had a Command Wolf sitting in my backlog for almost a year...it's not that I don't think I have the skill or anything, I'm just kind of dreading the hell of tons of tiny pieces and hours of panel lining.

>>6503937
Link to Heph's site/store?

>>6504566
Pandagguy @ Anime Weekend Atlanta
Mini Kit Collection Zaku II
Super Space Command GM

>>6504540
>>6504581
>>6504599
Can't say, we could just be stuck with more Robot Damashi figures (we have two already)

>>6504730
This is a good thing.

>>6504882
> Alclad Dark Aluminum ...teethin'...

>>6505426
It's the best idea you can come up with on short notice outside of spraying on the roof of the building, that fan makes the bathroom effectively a very weak fume hood chamber.
But long-term you're better off scratch-building or buying a spray booth that you can stick in or trail a hose to a window.

Sup /m/, I've put together 5 kits in the last few years but they've all looked like shit, in some part because for the first 4 I thought of them as Bionicles and tried to put them together in one sitting without taking enough care . I'm considering ordering more since I've got some spare cash and have done the research, but what essential supplies should I get to make them look nice? I've already got the nippers, the files, the 1000 grit sandpaper, the shitty Testors flat topcoat, a set of Gundam markers (not the paint ones, they're felt-tipped) and some other bits and bobs.

Basically, I've dumped probably $150 into this hobby since 2013 and still don't have anything I'm proud of enough to have, say, on my desk instead of in a box in the closet, so I want to try one last time. Obviously supplies aren't everything but I just want to know if there's something I should have that I don't that would give me an end result that doesn't feel like a butchered waste of money.

>>6505615
I guess it could be read that way, but I meant it as too thin.

>>6505627
>>>/m/

>>6505631
I wrote it originally with "/toy/" in that place but forgot which thread I had open... Oops.

>>6505627
>a set of Gundam markers (not the paint ones, they're felt-tipped)
anon...

>>6505636
fuck off crossposter

>>6505627
Buddy, there is a very nice guide in OP post that will tell you all you need to know.

Also, throw out that Testors garbage and splurge a little for Tamiya TS-80 or Mr. Hobby flat clear. Results will be far superior, and you'll likely be impressed and proud to display it on your desk.

>>6505462
holy shit zoids has plamos?! I am so fucking glad i ditched magic for this! I havent seen anything zoid for soo fucking long

>>6505652
>Tamiya TS-80 or Mr. Hobby flat clear
I've read the guide many times, this is the sort of thing I was trying to ask for. Thanks, I'll get my hands on a can of the nicer stuff. I just don't have a lot of first-hand experience with model kits yet.

>>6505670
You serious? It was originally a plamo line from Tomy of motorized walking kits. Those are long since discontinued, but Koto makes a line of really nice detailed kits and Tomy has a line of smaller 1/144 kits (Not much variety in it though).

>>6505680
yeah before the last 3 weeks i only knew gundam had plamos because of the gundam breakers games i figured most other figures were ya know prebuilt and all like revoltech and such yeah i know stupid as hell but i never really looked anywhere for proof otherwise and now i regret that

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Oh and could anyone give me some tips on how to do the painting on the super thin lines in the armor? Im digging the barbatos set and want to make this set look as cool as the picture after i get one

>>6505695
panel line wash

>>6505695
sharpies

>mfw mr color levelling thinner works better with Tamiya acrylics than even Tamiya's own Acrylic thinner

Holy shit, I love this thing. So nice and smooooooooth.

>>6505703
Add some Mr. Retarder to it too to make it even smoother.

>>6505703
There's a reason Tamiya sells lacquer thinner but they don't sell their lacquer paint in the bottles. Their acrylics are lovely with lacquer thinner, especially Mr. Leveling Thinner.

>>6505705
Mr. Leveling Thinner already has enough retarder in it.

>>6505739
>Mr. Leveling Thinner already has enough retarder in it.
Nonsense. It's blistering hot and dry where I am, so more retarder can never hurt.

>>6505695
Use a gundam marker like normal, then wipe/rub away the messy excess with your finger or a q-tip. If you accidentally wipe too much just repeat the process. It's pretty easy.

>>6505695
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95MD5IXiXqE

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My PG MkII has been constructed and lined!
I'm going to be painting it up and applying decals at a later date, but the panel lining makes it look a lot better than just a straight snapfit while I have it on my shelf for the time being.
My first PG and boy, isn't it a beautiful kit.

>>6504730
YOU'VE FAILED ME FOR THE LAST ITME, ZETA.

>>6505627
>>6505652

Man, that's some overblown hate for testors dullcote. TS-80 is great but this hate is unwarranted.

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>>6504994
get a gouf

>>6505873
[drum beat]
[whispered]:
Nub nub, bitch, nub nub nub city, bitch
Nub city, bitch, nub nub city bitch
(Xacto on the beat, ho)

Nub city, bitch, nub nub city, bitch
Those cuts be lookin' real shitty, bitch

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New review, but I'll post all the fun photos here.

http://otakurevolution.com/content/bandai-148-mega-size-unicorn-gundam-review

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PG & MG. Still need to build the RG.

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Mega Size RX-78-2

>>6505887
He's a big guy

Anyway destroy mode sucks

>>6505887
Did you paint up that RX-78? Or are those waterslides?

>>6505907
Not him but that megasize rx-78 is modified

>additional panel lines
>paint variances to add an RG kinda look ie 2 tone
>SO MUCH PAINT

It would look even better with some water slides but surprise surprise, this kit doesn't even have a single decal of any type on it, sticker or waterslide

>>6505884
So how long till Unicorn mode Mega Size comes out?

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So, did everyone just ignore this guy?

>>6505941
Never ever.

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Would a beargguy head fit on the acguy SD that theyre rereleasing? Id love to make a beargguy sd.

>>6505948
Damn, what kit is that? Looks cool.

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>>6505970
This dude from SRW
http://hobby.dengeki.com/news/441814/

>>6505965
whoa boy that gogg looks like SHIT

>>6505972
>SRW
oh, who cares then

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>>6505978
I don't see how else they could really do a Gogg in SD and make it look all that good. The aquatic zeon suits are my faves though, because theyre so DIFFERENT from everything else. I really hope we get a thunderbolt gogg.

>>6505918
No modifications, just paint and lines.

Just bought an MG Perfect Zeong today. It's been shelfwarming for 2+ years and I've been wanting it the whole time. It's so big and cool.

Got it for 95 USD. How'd i do?

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Graze is Love.

Hey did the graze hloekk get a release? Was there an option kit for the shield graze from s2? Any upcoming ibo kits at all?

>>6504994
If you wanna go big get a doven wolf

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How big is the psycho GM that P bandai is selling? The price doesnt seem to make sense for a 1/144 scale.

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>>6506114
The Psyco Gundam mold is pretty massive, anon. Pic related shows it with an average-sized HG. The price makes perfect sense.

>>6506114
Roughly PG size

>>6505885
Really? Those fucking knee joints after the RG just demonstrated some amazing joints?

>>6506220
mega size are never well articulated

>>6506220
Megasize kits aren't very articulated as their joints have to be kept really simple due to weight issues.

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>>6505596
>>6505462
command wolf is pretty great but does suffer from being such an early kit in their HMM line. One big issue to look into before assembling is in the jaws. If you want to open the jaws any wider then 15 degrees or so, then you got to do some cutting here and there. The legs also LOVE popping off when posing and is a slight pain to reattach firmly without removing pieces of armor

The building of it is pretty easy for HMMs, and the amount of panel lining is on the low side. That said it does have a TON of sculpted details like hoses, pistons, pipes, etc that are in plain sight and could greatly benefit from a little detailing painting to separate them from the rest of the part they are molded into. It is one of the smaller HMMs as well so will be a breeze to get through.

Although now that I think of it depending on the wolf, like the one shown in that image for instance, all the blue armor is sadly metallic shiny plastic which Kotobukiya loves despite it being very susceptible to nub 'scarring' that not even god hands can prevent. So painting is probably preferred.

>>6505670
>>6505690
yeah the HMM line is pretty awesome, highly articulated models that are not motorized. Like the other anon mentioned, the entire zoids franchise STARTED in the 80s as a motorized model kit line. Very very simplistic model kits meant for kids to quickly assemble back then. didn't get anime until the 2000s. I definitely reccomend just looking for HMM kits for now, and maybe only getting an old kit if you find it for super cheap at a yard sale or something. There is not much you can do with the old ones do to the simplicity of the parts, but now and then you see someone who does really awesome stuff that essentially required remaking tons of jointed parts. Like pic related

>>6506018
Nice, ground type graze without needing to buying all those options sets. Grazes are fucking sexy

>>6506220
Are you aware of how a Mega size usually is? It's closer to a super basic HG than anything.

>>6504882
>>6504888
>>6504897
>>6505224
Anon who originally asked for the color view, I appreciate the help a lot GG.

>>6505887
>5'11 vs 6'2"

>>6505948
What is that claw hand thing? Tell me more about the claw hand thing.

>>6505980
I care.

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>>6505965
You mean a Petit'gguy?
Maybe, Petit'gguys have that hollow space under their heads so you can get away with a good bit.
You'd just have to figure out connecting whatever the Acguy uses for a neck post or socket to the Petit'gguy's ball-neck polycap.

Meanwhile, Hurricane came in. Delightfully tiny little masking challenge, might be better served painting and masking the colors AND THEN repainting the white.
I'unno.

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>>6506859
The box is fancily premium, in that the bottom shell doubles as a display stand.
Nice.

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Prize pack is coming along nice. There's five of the alligator clip packs by the way.

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>>6504339
I haven't been to these threads in a while, I came to submit my group build entry but noticed the due date is changed, why is it pushed back so far?

Not that I'm complaining, I've been rushing to get pic related to the state it's in now for the /m/ group build because i procrastinated and didn't start seriously working on it until a week ago.
I was planning to modify it a lot more extensively(new guns for each arm, longer arms, smoke grenade launchers on torso, ammo drum on back, bulkier ankles, LED in head), but this is all i did for the /m/ build, I might start doing some of those modifications I mentioned for this group build later.

>>6506891
The more entries the better basically.

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>>6505948
>those feet

>Local store has ~300 gundam.info code sheets

do I take them all

Where do I attach alligator clips on the piece when I'm painting it? Wouldn't the area under it not get painted?

>>6505948
How do I buy this?

>>6506982
I generally attach mine to a peg.

>>6506993
Raftclans, it's on HLJ and such.

Do any of you guys have local hobby stores? It seems like it would be a big hassle to constantly be waiting on overseas orders for a certain kind of putty or something to finish a build.

>>6507090
I do. I use them more for advice than materials though, they don't have enough of the stuff we shill here. I just have to work around the wait with planning and my otherwise slow as fuck build speed.

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>>6507090
Gunpla is literally the only reason why I haven't decided to move yet.

>>6507090
I'm about to go check out Hobbytown USA. There's a store half an hour from my work so going by there tomorrow hoping to pick up some Tamiya spray paint I need. Not sure what to expect desu.

>>6505948
WAGA SHINKEN

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>>6505965
I took a pic of it for you, the body size is pretty disproportionate but the Neck joint is almost identical so it fits on just fine.


>>6505978
I think its the cutest SD i own, but i'm biased as a Gogg fan.

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>want to get into air-brushing but I'm afraid
>would go in on a good model of upper-mid value because I am an art teacher and it could be useful outside of gunpla

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>>6505965
>>6507177
And here it is with Regular beargguy heads if you meant that instead of PetitGuy, the joints arent compatibly at all.

Also i'm calling it now the 200th MG will be 1/100 PetitGuy Ver.Ka

>>6507090
>Do any of you guys have local hobby stores?
Yes and they are useless most of the time (except that one that sells Alclad). Most of the stuff is overpriced and stale and restocked never.

>it would be a big hassle to constantly be waiting on overseas orders for a certain kind of putty or something to finish a build
Only happens when you are beginning, once you have a healthy stockpile of materials waiting for resupply is not a issue if you are proactive.

>>6507090
We have a local store, but they rarely have what I need. If I just need one supply thing I'll check them out so I won't have to make a shipment order online for one singular item, but that's really it.

>>6507179
Afraid of what? Follow your dreams anon

So it's been a while since I ordered from Taobao, but if my order says "waiting for the warehouse to sign" with no prompts for paying the international shipping, it's still waiting on their end and not mine, right?

>>6507090
I live 10 minutes walking distance from GundamPlanet, so I'm fine with paying extra for the convenience.

>got tristan HG for 20 bucks at local store

the first item i've found cheaper than amazon

>>6507090
Have a hobby store quite close to me. Their Gunpla is overpriced but there's other products worth getting. They have Tamiya acrylics, Vallejo Air and Model Masters pints which I have different uses for (Model Masters mainly for enamel washes). I also have a standard Hobby Lobby nearby which has a small collection of Vallejo Model Color to be used for hand painting, and military models.

>>6507292
That money could have been spent on a mechanically better HG (as in the way it moves, not accounting for taste). Or paints.

>>6507262
"Warehouse" is your forwarder's warehouse in China, sounds like your package is in transit to there. After it reaches you need to choose when the forwarder should ship overseas to you.

>>6507302
You're not wrong but I'm glad to support them. Tristan looks cool as well.

>>6507337
Problem is that I don't have any option to pay anything. I didn't have this problem before, but all it says is "Current transshipment state: parcel is being sent to transit warehouse, to be transferred after the warehouse receipt, please pay the transfer fee"

Since we're talking about the Mega Unicorn, what's the best option for a stand for the megas?

>>6507374
Their legs. Mega size isn't exactly for dynamic posing.

>>6507090
>It seems like it would be a big hassle to constantly be waiting on overseas orders for a certain kind of putty or something to finish a build.
It is.

>>6507411
I just want some more support for them so I don't have to worry about shelfdiving. They sway when I walk past that bookcase sometimes.

>>6507471
>They sway when I walk past that bookcase sometimes.
sounds like you should be worrying about structural support of your floor first

>>6507348
Haven't you paid for the item+domestic shipping fee? I don't think they'll dispatch the item if you have yet to pay that

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>>6507090
I'm about 20-30 minutes away from the largest Hobbytown in the nation :3
They just got some Vallejo Mecha Color, gonna use that on the Mini Kit Collection Zaku II

>>6507090

Not local, but there are a bunch of websites within my country that I order from.

>>6507538
Yep. It's about 30 minutes from me, but so far the only thing that seems to be an assrape is the gundam markers. They want $26 for the basic 5 piece set.

Paints range from 2-5 dollars, and most of the gunpla they order in seems to be amazon prices or better. The HG kits run about $16-24, and they had some MG kits for ~$30-50, and some RG kits for $40. They have a single PG kit, it's the 1/60th unicorn kit, and they're asking $210 for it.

>>6507531
Yeah, I paid for all that, and the money was taken out. Now there's a timer counting down and it says "Waiting for the warehouse to sign" but there's no where to pay anything, like the freight settlement

How long can I wait at the minimum to mask off sections if I'm using lacquer paints?

>>6507538
>Vallejo Mecha Color

Tell us how it is when you use it. Put it through a stress test of parts handling and rubbing just like how it happens on plamo for real

>>6507688

harsh. brb denver's on.

>>6507090
>Do any of you guys have local hobby stores?

I do, but they don't sell robots, just regular military plamo and supplies.

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holy shit they made Earlecumber

>robot tamashii
never mind

>>6507786
aw
I was waiting for the centaur

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>>6507538
Let us know how it works. Iirc its supposed to be prethinned and sturdier than their orher lines.

>>6505436
>>6505436
I love the optics and the colors are really neat as well. Is that some sort of prototype for an f-91 era shotlancer? I'd get this if I had more expendable income and the Jegan was a slightly more articulate kit.

>>6507786
>I want this thing
>No, not like that!

You fags are insufferable

>>6508150
what?
that's a perfectly legitimate position

it's like wanting pizza, but not liking the deep dish variety

>>6508150
Are you retarded? Most people that buy models kit buy them for the construction aspect, not just for owning a particular thing.

>>6508358
So you can buy a different model.

>>6508123
Yeah it's a proto shot lancer, which is cool as fuck.

>>6508150
You must be one of the RDfags. Go back to your own general

>PG Millenium Falcon releases
>They didn't do color separation at all for the non gray panels of the falcon
>It's all grey and they just included stickers for those pieces like the cheap x wing models

What the fuck, Bandai?

There wasn't even an attempt.

>>6508531
Because star wars fans will eat whatever garbage is put out provided it carries the star wars brand. Don't expect quality with anything associated with star wars nowadays.

>>6508578
>>6508531
Because star wars fans aren't lazy snap shits

they're actual modelers

>>6504730
Remember, Starscream has a much darker face than the rest of the regular Seekers, much darker than the grey/white on his body

>>6508531
Hmm almost as if they know the type of people who would buy this product would be the type of paint and weather it to look like the movies.

>>6508531
source?
release date is october

>>6505141
I went and got an Iwata Eclipse for my first brush. Worked wonders for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Eclipse-Action-Airbrush-Gravity/dp/B000BQKFAI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504217270&sr=8-3&keywords=iwata+eclipse

>>6505426
I strongly advise opening a window and letting a breeze circulate through your apartment while spraying, or having some kind of fan blowing the air out. You really don't want to keep those vapors in your place.

And get a good respirator mask as well.

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Been working on this off and on for a while now.

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>>6508698

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>>6508700

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>>6508704

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>>6508596
>star wars fans
>actual modelers

>>6508634
There's unboxing videos on youtube of it from some japanese guys. Have been since earlier this month.

>>6508531
It sucks because seam welding is a non issue and the weathering would have been EVERYTHING for the kit. Not doing the color separation just makes it an easy pass for anyone but extremely hardcore modelers, whom color separation would have changed nothing for since they'd still paint the whole thing.

>>6508596
Is that why Revell kits for Star Wars fans were legos for toddlers?

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>>6508822
Here's one, and you can see the sticker sheet in the image here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWVui17dFjQ&t=939s

I'm possibly going to get my first Master Grade kit soon and i want to get the Double X Gundam but i want a bigger one and don't know how big the Master Grade Double X is in comparison to the High Grade version and other models and am wondering if anyone can give me a comparison.

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>>6508862
It's significantly larger than the HG one.

Dalong.net has comparisons for a lot of stuff like this.

>>6504338
looks good

>>6508829
What the fuck. Even in my nightmares the sticker sheet is not that big.

>>6508883
I never thought we'd see a perfect grade anything with a sticker sheet even close to that.

It's literally everything that isn't grey or black.

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how do you usually display your gunplas? "standing-by" mode or dramatic battle poses?

>>6508883
No anon, you were awake the whole time. THIS is the real nightmare.

Anyone know of any good mech bay displays or ones that work as hangars for other toys/ scale models?

>>6508752
Modelers who buy star wars kits aren't lazy snap shits

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Anybody here own / know about these "YH" kits?
They're unofficial Metal Slug vehicle kits and I can only find them on ebay or aliexpress shipping from China. I really want one since actual Metal Slug merch is almost impossible to find. Just want to make sure they arent bootlegs to the point where the plastic crumbles in my hands.

>>6509120
I own the SV-001 but it's been collecting dust in the backlog literally forever. Richigo has both, but he hasn't done a review of the Slug Gunner. http://richigo-bankai.blogspot.com/2016/02/one-of-these-beauties-well-4-actually.html
They look pretty great, and the inner frame on the SV-001 is really neat.

Unrelated, but does anyone need a tutorial for setting up 2you4 with P-Bandai? Most people probably don't care since Gentei, Samuel Decal, NY, etc. do a good job already, but 2you4's known for being a really cheap forwarding service.

>>6508829
I want this.

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>>6508752
Yeah, just look at these scrubs.

does purple power even remove tamiya ts? I've had some parts soaking in that stuff for half a month and nothing has started falling off yet.

>>6508635
>tfw bought Eclipse off HLJ for $70 before they raised the prices

>>6509214
Tamiya Sprays are lacquer, have you just let them sit or have your scrubbed?

>>6509256
both, I've tried scrubbing at it with an unused toothbrush but it doesn't come off

>>6507601
two things are happening now
1) Taobao is holding your payment to the seller. Once the warehouse receives it or once the timer ends, you can instruct them to pay the seller
2) item is in transit to forwarder warehouse.

>>6509256
If it's truly hobby lacquer paint, then don't bother stripping it. The paint is embedded into the plastic and the only thinner that can remove it will melt the plastic as well.

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>>6509323
>The paint is embedded into the plastic and the only thinner that can remove it will melt the plastic as well.
Yeah, no.

Pic related removes ANY hobby primer, lacquer, enamel or acrylic within about 30 sec of exposure (rubbing with a q-tip). Plastic is not affected.

Stripping paint with cleaners, degreasers, brake fluid and other substances not designed for stripping paint has always had mixed success, it doesn't mean the paint is unstrippable.

>>6509371
Works great. A shame it's such a tiny expensive bottle.

>>6509214

Use alcohol.

>>6509502
>tiny
You only need a tiny amount to strip an area. Unless you're stripping whole kits routinely this bottle will last a very long time.

>expensive
>$2.50
Seriously?

>>6509524
I'm guessing he's not in a locale that can easily order it or purchase it in a shop.

>>6509120
These are pretty fucking great for 3rd parties.
The Slug Tank comes with an additional transparent armor parts to better see the inner frames so you have the option to build with either one.
They even released 2 addon weapons kit for them.
Skip the Slug Flyer by the same company though, it's shit.

>>6509554
This.
A quick look for it in the UK brings up a total cost of just over $8.
Maybe if you have a place to buy it in person it might be less since that had shipping charges too.

Would vallejo airbrush primer work fine if I plan on painting with nail polish? I've never tried it before and am worried about potential interaction between the layers.

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>>6508949
"You came to the wrong neighborhood" group pose, usually.

>>6507090
>tfw have two locally

Life is good.

>>6509524
I definitely did not need to strip like, a whole kit.

Just the legs. Ok it was a lot.

It's $5 over here though luckily kit prices are still alright.

>>6509554
There are a few dedicated model kit shop in sg luckily.

>>6509609
I assume it's because of law/tax involving the importing of solvents and the likes.

>>6509623
Pretty sure the solvent in nail polish will eat through acrylic.

>>6509651
The only kits with good prices are Bandai kits when they're on sale or some military scale models

Anything else is way overpriced

>>6509623
>vallejo airbrush primer
>primer
chalk in acrylic medium is hardly a "primer" and yes, the nail polish will eat through that if you do a wet coat (which you should if you want your nail polish glossy)

>>6509654
>>6509658
Alright, that's what I feared. Any recommended primers to use instead?

>>6509660
My goto is Mr Surfacer 1000
Never tried anything else because it just works and is easy enough to get

>>6509660

Seconding mr surfacer. I have doubts about the nail polish painting method though, pretty sure it will mess with mr surfacer as well.

>>6509319
omg finallly some help! thank you
Alright I guess I'll just keep waiting, I don't see much else I can do. Funny enough its the same seller I bought another kit from and i didn't even realize it

>>6509704
>pretty sure it will mess with mr surfacer as well
not if you thin it with hobby thinner

>>6509663
>>6509704
I remember hearing about both mr surfacer and mr primer, which led me to think surfacer in general might be slightly different from primer. Is surfacer even a term used outside of mr color? If so what the fuck is it?

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>>6509758
>surfacer even a term used outside of mr color? If so what the fuck is it?
literally what the name says: it makes surface

you apply surfacer to fill small holes and cracks and to make everything smooth, the lower the grit the larger the imperfections it can fill

you can also kill surface detail if you are not careful

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>>6509660
Tamiya liquid primer.

>>6508829
>stickers
No fucking way, they've gotta be waterslides, right?

>>6509862
Bandai star wars kits come with both. A sheet of waterslides and a duplicate as stickers.

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My laser saw has arrived.

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>>6509885
The blade is at least as thin as photoetched ones but way better supported.

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/m/ h ad an actually decent group build for once

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I'm looking to make a Dainsleif for a diarama, but I am entirely lost as to how I'd make it. Has anyone made/seen a custom made one before? I'm seriously surprised there was never one included in an option set.

>>6509957
Bandai's model department probably never expected Nagai to go full retard with it and make it have such a huge role in the series.

>>6509957
I've seen a resin kit of it on YJA for something like 15K.

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>>6509957
What's stopping you just scratchbuilding one?

>>6509758

It certainly works well as a primer regardless of what it's called.

>>6509178
That's pretty basic stuff anon... Are you impressed by washes and oils perhaps? Or chipping?
>>6509717
>not if you thin it with hobby thinner
What does thinning medium have to do with the application endurance to other chemicals?

>>6509992
>What does thinning medium have to do with the application endurance to other chemicals?
>what does choice of chemical have to do with endurance to chemicals

>>6510003
That's not how it works and you neither said anything.
The thinner just carriers the mr surfacer particles and binder, retard. Once applied it evaporates, retard. Whatever additional properties it has being them leveling agents or drying retarder either become dry residue (appreciable once dry) or evaporates, retard.
ib4 saying some retarded shit like muh melting plastic or something like of those lines, be better than that anon, even if it's just for the others.

>>6509808
That makes sense.

>>6509989
Fair enough.

>>6510020
are you differently mentally able or something?

nail polish thinner is pretty much pure acetone and it WILL melt both the primer coat and the plastic under it, ergo you thin nail polish with hobby thinner that won't touch either

>>6509885
So, how much did you spend this time, you absolute madman

>>6510059
2720 for the saw: https://hlj.com/product/JLCP004

>>6505865
It's just not a very nice topcoat. I bought three cans at once because my local hobby shop was having a sale, and I regret that purchase. Used it twice and was so dissatisfied with the mediocre matte-ness that I stripped the parts and recoated with Mr. Super Clear.

If I were on a severe budget I might maybe go for it, but I'm not, and it just isn't up to snuff for me.

>>6509371
Word, this shit is fantastic. There was a part I was trying to strip Tamiy Lacquer from, and I had run it through basically every cleaning solution and method I could find online with no success. One minute of rubbing with Mr. Paint Remover and it was spotless.

>>6509954
Good work as always from Richigo. I'm really happy to see that Juagg again, it was one of my favorite customs recently. Dakka The O is pretty rad but the color scheme is boring. Some weathering or markings could really have helped here. FAZZ colorscheme is rad. And it's always nice to see Rodis getting some love.

Overall a nice selection, good shit /m/.

>>6509957
gk-M has a resin kit for preorder

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Alright guys, let's have a little talk about gloss.

We frequently discuss the best flatcoats, but I rarely see anyone talk about gloss topcoats. I don't necessarily need something quite as dripping wet-looking as pic related, but I am looking for a really smooth and glossy topcoat to protect my metallic paintjobs without dulling them down.

So, any recommendations? Ideally rattlecan, as I don't own an airbrush.

>>6510279

Weird, it always came out really flat in my eyes, the snapbuilds I used it for look good. Don't get me wrong, I think both TS-80 and mr color flat are better, but if you've bought a can you might as well use it.

>>6510318

I wouldn't use any clear coats over metallics as gloss shine is not the same thing as metallic shine.

That said, my favorite for actual glossy looks is mr color gloss with leveling thinner. Obviously for airbrush, no idea about cans.

>>6510318
Most glosses come out similarly when allowed to cure in the proper environment (decently dry, moderate temperature, no dust). The glossiness is usually a result of how wet you apply the coat, though getting a perfectly finished wet lacquered look like that is beyond me. He might've manually polished it.

Try Mr Super Clear UV cut. Testors gloss wet look can get a high gloss finish but it's somewhat harsher than others and ate through a layer of Future and acrylic paint. If you don't mind something weaker, then Future will work just fine too.

>>6510346
Okay, what product would you use to protect a metallic paint job then? I'm trying to figure out how to topcoat my painted Hyaku Shiki right now (as well as figure out what to do for my future metallic paintjobs).

>>6510339
Maybe I'll give it another shot on some older kits that I don't really care too much about. In my experience though, Testors still reflects points of light too sharply.

>>6510358

It certainly isn't the flattest. Not the worst either though, vallejo flat is the glossiest flat coat I've tried even though I have been shaking the bottle like a madman before using it.

>>6510356

I don't. The metallics I have used (tamiya spraycans, ak xtreme metal line) are pretty durable on their own.

>>6510356
>what product would you use to protect a metallic paint job
Nothing as in no top coat is actually the safest choice. Alclad has enamel topcoats for their metallics but they don't come in cans. In any case expect metallic shine to be affected by topcoat to some degree.

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It's out and it's fuckin perfect!!! So many options to build with. Only missing smooth shoulder armor, double shields and various pilot insignia decals.

>Built:
>Try burning
>Star Winning
>Graze Ritter
>Barbatos Lupus

>Backlog:
78 3.0 MG
F91 MG
Tallgeese MG
MK2 MG
Blue Graze 1/100
Lupux Rex HG
Tristan HG
Nobel HG
Seravee 1/100

>too scared to start my MG because of lack of skills

How the fuck do I proper remove nubs/stress marks? I have gundam planet nippers and I cut close, and 1/2 the time it does the job, but other times it leaves a very close stress mark. If I use heavy sand paper(600?) it fucks up the plastic and light paper (1200?) doesn't do shit and still fucks it up a tiny bit.

Which 1/100 or MG should I start with in general? I REALLY liked try burning, but I hated it after adding the fire pieces (looked bad and were impossibly hard to attach/study the back/strands on the fire punch. My favorite build I have done so far visually is Star winning (real mode), but the stickers look like ass.

I'm having trouble bending and re-tempering styrene in boiling water, while eliminating the stress marks. What am I doing wrong, and what should I do to fix it?

tl;dr the white stress areas still remain while forcing the plastic into a bent shape in boiling water, even after 10ish minutes.

>>6510380
For nubs you want to do this:
>Cut twice
One far away, then trim in close.
>Sand
600 and 1200 should be okay, I use 600 and 1000 myself and it works well. You can use lower grits if you're sanding wet. Some scuffing is normal and won't matter anyway if you...
>topcoat
A matte topcoat will hide minor scuffs left by 1k grit paper unless you really fucked up. If you won't topcoat you just have to polish the piece but topcoating really makes for a nice finish.

Painting is how you get rid of the marks fully but the above works well enough for snapfaggotry

>>6510377
>it's fuckin perfect!!!
>Only missing smooth shoulder armor, double shields and various pilot insignia decals.

Doesn't sound as perfect as it could be.

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I can't believe something this reflective came out of a fucking marker, I feel like all my knowledge about painting is a lie.

>>6509371
How does this affect bare plastic? Will it mess with the finish of the part at all, or does it look the same once you clean it off?

>>6510528
To be fair, most of that stuff he mentioned is nitpicks. Most Zaku IIs don't come with that stuff, standard equipment is spiked shoulder pad and one shield. We shouldn't really expect more than that.

>>6510614
This shit looks incredible but I am a bit daunted by the fact that most all topcoats dull the effect, as will touching it over time. I like to pose my kits often so I'm probably gonna end up with a really dull silver.

>>6510647
I've only used it once so far but IIRC the plastic looked just like it did out of the box after I cleaned it.

>>6509578
>>6509141
Thanks! Now just to wait a month to actually get it...

>>6510614
can you show a picture of the market brand?

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>>6510741
It's by a company called Molotow. I think most of their stuff is meant for graffiti.

>>6509954
Oh god, the Behemoth

>>6510788
> available in 4mm, 2mm, and 1mm tips
> available through [Dick] Blick
I'm going shopping tomorrow :)

Just got a RG Justice gundam kit, noticed one of the pieces inside of it was broken. Should I just glue it back together with super glue, or use thin cement on it?

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>>6509954
>Golioth

Makes me wish I could paint

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Anyone else built one yet? This thing really is a beast of possibility.

>>6511065
I'm waiting for the waterslide decals to come out before I start on mine.

>>6510614
Airbrushable too
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vGKQwylEihw

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>>6511065

It's on my to-do list after these two.

>>6511111
https://www.amazon.com/Molotow-Liquid-Chrome-Refill-30ml/dp/B01MR2KER3
Not cheap for a metallic paint.

>>6511166
I guess you could try and decant a can of the Molotow Burner Chrome and see how that comes out.
I have some of their gold and copper, both look quite nice but only used them for spray painting, not plastic figures.

>>6509973

Nothing; but I don't know if I could make one that looks much better.

Hey guys does anyone have an idea on how i could make the slave wraiths head?

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>>6511443
Forgot pic

>>6511065
Yeah, its really nice but the joints are uncomfortably tight.

>>6511450
Isn't is just the Blue Destiny or Ground Gundam type head with a visor over top?

>>6511450
Maybe Ground Gundam + GM Striker?

>>6511450
Pretty sure it's just a Gundam Ground type head with the GM Striker's head armor parts slapped onto it, plus the two antennas on the back.

Unless you mean actually putting those two parts together, in which case good luck. I have both kits and I've been wanting to make a Slave Wraith myself but my skill level isn't anywhere near high enough for that since all I do is panel lining/seam wielding and other basic stuff.

>>6509141
How are the rates for that? Don't wanna pay samueldecals ridiculous ripoff prices or Nippon yassan's fucked up shipping.

>>6509141
If you write one up I'll include it in the guide.

I'm ready to buy an airbrush. Do I need any obvious tools for maintenance and shit? Specifically the Iwata Eclipse HP CS.

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>>6509889
But the main reason I bought it is that I can mount 2 or more blades with spacers between them and cut slices of the same precise width.

>>6511450
that gm face guard actually looks pretty good on a gundam

>>6511065
stop tempting me to buy it

>>6509954
nice to see the o getting some love

>>6511663
That's a good idea. Though my personal issue is how the fuck do I attain a straight cut in the first place.

>>6511663
what the FUCK

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>>6511659

an ultrasonic cleaner works wonders, also helps cleaning the plastic pieces after sanding. Other than that, make sure you get a mask and a bunch of those clips

>>6511722
>how the fuck do I attain a straight cut in the first place
Go slowly.

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I've finished my first Gunpla.

I gave the GRIMGERDE a coat of black paint and took the ears off. I think I'm going to give it a different weapon.

I'll try to take better pics.

>>6512021
You might want to sand down those red nub marks and touch them up with some place paint, and next time try to paint the parts after they are cut off the runners.

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>>6511659
>Do I need any obvious tools for maintenance and shit?

buy 2 sets of these and a bottle of lacquer thinner, probably the most important things for cleaning your airbrush. Also some lubricant for the needle, there are plenty of hobby specific lubricants but they're overpriced and dont work any better than WD40 from a hardware store.

>>6512166
Yeah, I'm gonna take the limbs off and touch them up a bit.

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>>6511659
Eclipse is a very good brush, it will serve you well if you treat it well. Do not leave paint in it, take it apart and clean after every session, as Iwatas go it's pretty easy to clean.

Cleaning:
https://hlj.com/product/TAM74550 for needle channel and any small nylon paintbrush for cup cleaning.
Hardware store lacquer thinner works fine for cleaning, just don't use it to thin your paint.

Lubrication:
https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Super-Lube-oz/dp/B0039776VC is designed for this airbrush and will last you months if not years. You can _lightly_ lubricate the needle after cleaning. Trigger will also need lubrication from time to time. You only need a small drop.

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I've been trying to get better than just snap-fitting. I took one of my old snap-fitted kits, then I sanded the nub marks, panel lined it, gave it a matte coating, and even did a little weathering. I'm really happy with how it turned out; it doesn't look like a cheap plastic toy anymore.

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What's the optimal way of painting with Gundam markers? Using them as intended always ejects way too much paint and also leaves these little streaks

>>6512454
Gundam markers aren't really good for painting big pieces. They work for small details, but if you insist on using them I'd just get some of the paint out and use a brush.

>>6512454
>>6512454 #
By not painting with Gundam markers. If you want things to look good get actial paint tools like bottles and brushes or an airbrush. Spray cans work well enough too but the cost adds up. Shortcuts like markers don't give the same results as using the actual items meant for the job.

For the same money as one overpriced marker you can get several paint bottles. You can even mix them to have varying colors, or adjust variables like how flat or glossy they are.

I've seen a few pictures of the MG Unicorn with LEDs, but I can't seem to find any tutorials or anything, has anyone here done that?

>>6512524
Buy a PG

>>6512525
I would like to be able to afford rent

>>6512526
excuses

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>>6512454
it's not worth painting with gundam markers, just use real paints.
That being said, using them to paint up my hygogg was super fun.

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building a Vidar almost makes me want to buy another IBO Gundam kit.

How to make a balljoint socket? Anything else than making a crude hole and stuffing the appropriate polycap in?

>>6512828
Can't you take a dremel bit and carefully make a cone shaped hole in the plastic?

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>>6512828
you can buy this http://dalong.net/review/bf/bc22/bc22_p.htm

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Anyone got any suggestions for a cheap and probably pretty crap double action airbrush? I've already got a compressor and I just want something so I can start practicing and getting my hands dirty without buying a £100 Iwata or something like that.

>>6512923
just get any chink knockoffs then

New thread: >>6513027

>>6511468
That's just all Real Grades in my experience. They're not a good time to pose with those spooky tight joints.