/smg/ - Scale Model General

File: 20170620_224944.jpg (3MB, 4128x2322px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 4128x2322px

>>6382021
>shut it down
speaking of mischievous merchants, look what I got

>>6382084
Nice, but that looks a like a hard build in 1/72 desu

>>6382099
the kit is a glorified snap-fit kit. There are 30 parts and most of them are the missile turret

I'm wanting to make a tattooine diorama, but I'm unsure about how to go about making the ground, I don't really like the idea of having a bunch of sand in my room, any tips?

>>6382110
Probably some premade ground stuff? Like vallejo/mig/ak/tamiya/citadel diorama/base products. Not sure if they make sandy terrain tho

>>6382110
Plaster with sand glue on would be secure. What kit?

File: IMG_2288.jpg (2MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4032x3024px

>>6382021
Making a garage for pictures

>>6382147
I got a squad of the bandai sandtroopers built and I wanted to create a scene similar to in A New Hope where they're in the hallways of Mos Eisley

>>6382169
>>6382225
Both of these are awesome

>>6382021
is that a Jew T-55 with the L7? need sauce i really like it

any thoughts on the revell t55 a/am 1 72 scale model kit? it should be at my door in the next week and i got it for the price of a snap kit, $12

also my local toytown sells $15 model kits for $5 lel

would a good wash of ak interactive dust give a nice realistic look along with ak interactive rust on the tracks?

last one was t55 guy also

>>6382621
I'm building one right now.

You can't build it as the soviet/Vietnamese version as the instructions say. These countries used soviet-production vehicles, yet the kit provides parts for only a czech production vehicle

- gun mantlet is heavily simplified (no gun ring, cloth texture or cloth seam line)
- front mudguards are attached the upper frontal glacis instead of the sideskirts leaving a prominent gap
- convoy lights missing from hull
- poorly cast TC hatch periscopes
- bunch of other minor issues

All fixable, but not without some work.

What can I use for cleaning my airbrush?

Using Vallejo model air.

I see conflicting opinions on using window cleaner, windscreen wiper fluid, isopropyl alcohol, methylated spirits...

Isopropyl alcohol is kinda pricey here, so at $10 for 125ml. I'm thinking of just using the Vallejo one, which is $14 for 200ml.

>>6382782
what about ethanol?

>>6382816
methylated spirits = poisoned ethanol

>>6382635
the last one was an AE86

File: IMAG0137.jpg (1MB, 2688x1520px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 2688x1520px

>building a 30 year old Ki84 kit
>everything is surprisingly snug
>only problem is the engine cowling taking some carving to sit right

File: IMAG0138.jpg (608KB, 1520x2688px) Image search: [Google]

608KB, 1520x2688px

Also masking tape belts for the pilot because you'll barely see them when the canopy goes on

>>6382782
>Using Vallejo model air.
>I'm thinking of just using the Vallejo one.

Makes sense does it not...?
I'm cleaning both the regular Vallejo model color and Model Air, as well as their primers with their cleaner and it works great. (using H&S airbrushes). I sometimes uses the Iwata cleaner which also works well.

Also, 14$? what the fuck? why so pricey?
https://www.modelhobbies.co.uk/shop/vallejo-200ml-airbrush-cleaner-p-10110.html
Look on Ebay as well, you can definitely find it for less than 14$...

Guys check your local toytown if you have one seriously those fucks are selling 1 72 scale kits for 5 bucks and 1 35 kits for like 20,
Also t55 guy

File: ump001new2[1].jpg (36KB, 800x600px) Image search: [Google]

36KB, 800x600px

I have a lot of cleaners and keep going back to this because I find it the best for everything.

>>6382319
I posted it on the last thread. Here: >>6381982
>>6382634
For tracks you need three basic layers:
>the base colors: usually a very dark rust or black if its a garage queen. Also the rubber pads, if any, present stages of weathering too from rubber black to slighty faded and coarse surface due use.
>Mud/dust/rust: basic second step is applying a very dark rust wash (usually called "track wash" by most companies) then it depends on where the thing was deployed and the type of mud/dust, you need to be more specific about what you want to do to get help
>Accents: the finish which I do rubbing metallic pigment on the contact with the ground parts of the track and where the wheels touch the track inside as it "cleans" it a bit. Also wet effects or more mud depending of what I'm doing.
What you have is a dust wash and pigmnets or another wash but for rust?
>>6382782
Acetone.
Cheap, easily available, bulldozes through anything and unless you have a chink crap it doesn't affect the airbrush finish.

Any words of encouragement for someone returning to the hobby for the first time in 20+ years? I started my first model, a 40K SM Land Speeder, last night and I already fucked it up. Le sigh.

>>6383246
What did you fuck up? Any pics?

Get more specific if you want proper advise. What am i supposed to tell you now. Practice more and it will be fine?

I recommend starting with cheaper kits than 40k stuff (which is fairly expensive if they didn't change their price policy recently).

If you like SciFi, maybe the cheap Star Wars kits by Revell would be a good topic for you to start?

>>6383246
Strip it with Simple Green or something similar and start again. Practice practice practice with cheap models to get back in the groove. Don't use "le,", this isn't reddit and people hate that shit round these parts.

File: IMG_0532.jpg (1MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x2448px

>>6383246
I think I improperly installed the door panel on the left hand side of the model. As a result the entire left side panel is misaligned.

File: IMG_0533.jpg (1MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x2448px

>>6383253
>>6383254

>>6383253
>>6383254

Thanks!

>>6382782
Just use windex you goof

>>6382881
What are you babbling about?

>>6382862
>>6382858
Thanks for adding a purple filter

>>6383246
>>6383257

Here is a tipp: Dryfit! Always!

It might be annoying and i admit i don't do it all the time myself, but it really helps to see how parts go together.

File: step1.jpg (131KB, 600x2058px) Image search: [Google]

131KB, 600x2058px

>>6382026
You want lots of light on the model, and you want it to be diffuse light. So flash (unless it's some fancy photographer setup with diffusers and stuff) and direct sunlight on clear day ain't brilliant. If you have a specific light source more than light all around then keep your camera near your light source so we don't see all the harsh shadows.

Try not to mix light sources with different hues/color temperature. If you have sunlight on one side and a ligthbulb on the other tan half the model will be blue and half will be yellow.

Then get a copy of photoshop from somewhere. Under "Image" you find "Auto Tone" and "Auto Color". They're fucking magic.

>>6383257
you literally managed to get glue everywhere.

how can you be such a clumsy oaf?

defiantly get the extra thin glue for future gluing.

>>6383302
Like I said, first build since I was a teen.

I used Tamiya extra thin.

>>6383279
My phone is shit, sorry

File: 1498021609716.jpg (164KB, 1344x760px) Image search: [Google]

164KB, 1344x760px

>>6383454
On the plus side, we got some demo fodder for

>>6383300
>then get a copy of photoshop from somewhere. Under "Image" you find "Auto Tone" and "Auto Color".

Getting rid of it all would probably take things like skill and such, but even I can press two buttons and make shit better.

File: image.jpg (2MB, 3024x4032px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3024x4032px

So close to being done. Waiting on some decals and debating a small diorama of the surface of mars.

Is there a differenece between white metal miniatures and resin? Besides weight and the obvious. You just prime and paint like resin right?

>>6383756
Paint wise only? No
Sculpt and details? yep

>>6383764
How so? Is one more detailed?

>>6383768
Have you ever seen a metal miniature and a resin one?

>>6383715
Still looks good. I see you found a way to coat/paint those wires. What's the plan for the diorama?

>>6383769
No, actually. I've only seen metal minis in boxes and never up close. I assumed they would use a similar mold i also assumed detail would be good or else why would white metal be used?

>>6383771
Well, you can google the differences and there're a lot of wargaming posts that talk about the phasing out to resin and plastics.
The short answer is that resin is better and allows for finer detail and extremely sharp (both definition and literally) sculpts and has a finer surface finish, etc
So choose the resin version always if you can

>>6383254
I know SG is used for stripping paint, will it also break down cement?

Also, what do y'all use for lighting your work area? I don't think the repurposed bedside lamp I'm using is sufficient.

>>6383795
Plastic cement doesn't deposit a glue seam in between the parts you glue. Instead it's a mix of solvents that dissolve the plastic on each side of the joint and chemically weld them together. Many also contain a bit of dissolved plastic to help fill gaps. As the solvent evaporates and the joint hardens, only the plastic itself is left behind.

So nothing that's safe for the plastic will harm the joint, and anything that'd dissolve the joint will dissolve the plastic itself.

>>6383803
Then get another light. Trust me lighting isnt your biggest problem

>>6383803
A bedside lamp will do, or get a "proper" desk lamp from amazon.
For painting you might want a daylight bulb or leds.

>>6383776
Resin is pretty shitty to work with and if something is offered in resin and also available in any other material i will go for the other stuff.

File: 1469582668403.png (966KB, 600x959px) Image search: [Google]

966KB, 600x959px

>>6383818
>preferring pewter to resin

>>6383826
For single piece miniatures: All the fucking time.
Plastic is superior to both though.

Thank god i play mostly historical games so the resin cancer hasn't spread out to far.

>>6383829
>resin cancer
hehe

File: 1444638108246.jpg (80KB, 900x600px) Image search: [Google]

80KB, 900x600px

>>6383829
wew I don't know what to say, I would never ever choose metal of any kind over resin for any miniature related work.
Also I think we are talking extremely different scales but anyone in their mind would make an ejector seat or pic related quality in metal for more reason than what I listed before plus I couldn't even be manufactured in metal for example.

>>6383809
So the big bottle of SG I just bought is useless and I should bin the model and start with a new one? Or maybe just finish what I can so I can gain experience cutting, cleaning and glueing?

File: metal minis.jpg (259KB, 1468x803px) Image search: [Google]

259KB, 1468x803px

>>6383848
I know there are some great looking fantasy miniatures in resin, but most of them are far away from Kingdom Deaths quality, details and work necessary before you can start painting.

But i don't like fantasy stuff so i paint mostly "normal" minis like pic related which i did last summer.

When i say choosing between resin/plastic or resin/metal it comes down to tank kits (for example a 1/48 Tiger plastic scale kit vs a Blitzkrieg Miniatures Resin Tiger in 1/48) or Warhammer minis which were available in metal for decades until GW switched to their "finecast"-resin (which was terrible). There i always will choose the non-resin product.

>>6383853
You don't need to throw it away.

Try to clean as good as you can, then continue to build it and paint.
You can still learn alot from it.

Throwing it away now would be wasted.

>>6383853
Useless for this purpose, yes.

>>6383260
Wow, are the legs molded into the plastic? What the fuck?

>>6383867
Yep. The lower half of the Space Marines sitting in the Land Speed are built into the bottom plate.

Sorry for shilling, but link related does a clearance sale and some of the kits are really cheap right now, so i guess its relevant to some of you guys:

http://fromemodelcentre.com

>>6383905
>some of the kits are really cheap
Like?

>>6383919
Probably not relevant to you but the Airfix 1/48 Warrior IFV is only 15GBP (its around 30€+ in most places i know and buy) and some Tamiya 1/48 military vehicles are also cheaper than they are if i would order them from HongKong (which usually is the cheapest option).

>>6383919
Click the banner Anon

https://fromemodelcentre.com/clearance.html

File: 718045.jpg (89KB, 1024x579px) Image search: [Google]

89KB, 1024x579px

Should I buy it bros? Everybody says it's full of detail but I know Revell kits can get hard to fit together

>>6383932
>>6383932

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/994370-revell-04995-messerschmitt-me-262b-1-nightfighter

Seems to be a new tool.

Check reviews (which are plentyful) and see if its shit or not. Some new revell kits are actually quite decent.

File: Sturmkonig[1].jpg (68KB, 798x387px) Image search: [Google]

68KB, 798x387px

>>6383905
>>6383929
that little dust tactic thing in the clearance section... that's interesting. not seen those before. tank based mechs
googling brings up some cool stuff.

File: dt059-sturmprinz.png (376KB, 600x554px) Image search: [Google]

376KB, 600x554px

>>6384044
intredasting indeed

File: 1485103655735.png (275KB, 465x450px) Image search: [Google]

275KB, 465x450px

>>6383246
>Le sigh
>namefag
This >>6383257

File: HandCasting201706_01.png (96KB, 280x210px) Image search: [Google]

96KB, 280x210px

>>6383257
Tip on gluing:
If you're using tube cement, try not to squeeze from the tube straight to the model. You're better off putting some onto a (disposable) palette and applying with something like a toothpick or straightened out paperclip. You do need to work semi-quickly because it will start to string a little. If it's stringing heavily right out of the bottle, your cement is too old. Tube cement tends not to keep for long, in my experience, but that's kind of relative I guess. Liquid cement will last you longer but does evaporate. Some brands faster than others, I think.

If it's a bottle of super glue (cyanoacrylate), you should probably do something similar to the above in how to apply it, unless you have a decent applicator nozzle for fine work (in which case, you should be careful about how much you dispense.)

>>6384044
If you're looking for something to assemble, you might want to double check if they're actual kits or preassembled. I vaguely remember them to be preassembled anyway. Still, they're pretty neat.


-------


Kingdom Death, Beyond the Wall fig I'm working on:
I finally got around to casting the lantern/left hand in clear resin. There's a tiny air bubble and I'm not sure if the hand casted funny. I'll need to put a thin layer of paint to check the suspected parts. If it's a bust, I'll redo the spew mold in silicon instead of latex.
Even if it fails, I'll probably drill a hole out of the bottom to see if I can simulate a small flame. Makes me wonder how small an LED I can find as an alternative though...
Pic related

>>6384044
>>6384048

As someone who owns a few dust models:

Be aware that Dust stuff comes in one of 3 sorts with very different pricetags:

As an unassembled kit (not comparable to a real kit though, usually just a couple of parts like legs, hull, turret and a few smaller details)

As a built and primed model (with decals already applied.. which really sucks)

As a "premium" model, already painted "professionally" (i guess) for a large price.

They have some really interesting designs though and the quality overall is good enough to work with.

>>6384957
The tiny fleck of something something just above the thumb on the clear casting is a piece of the mold that broke off during the demolding. Not a huge problem since I was shooting for very limited production (just one, really.) The point being is that if you want more castings, silicon is a better choice versus latex (I used latex.) Silicon is a little more durable and will last through more castings but still not high volume when compared to plastic injection.

>>6384957
Pretty solid. What is your method for casting?

File: 20170622_195042781_iOS.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

Fuck up after fuck up for not paying attention is the theme of this build. I though it was over spray with the primer, cleaned it up and then I fucking saw it's CA glue that fell from the nano frame that meng in all their wisdom decided to use to hold the grills.
Now I don't know if I should take it out and scrap it or leave it be as it will be green and maybe ends hard to see.

>>6386026
get some ca glue debonder mate. always worth aving some

>>6386092
Tomorrow I'll decide if I feel like popping it off, cleaning, gluing carefully again and finish priming or just leaving it be.
Ain't acetone a CA debonder?

>>6386133
with the ca debonder you may just be able to brush it on, then using a stiff brush remove the excess ca to clear the holes without needing to do much else.

erh last time I used acetone to debond superglue it took quite a lot of effort to remove the ca.
it doesn't reactivate it like ca debonder does which turns it into a liquid that can be removed within seconds.

>>6386133
I think acetone could maybe melt plastic also.

>>6386144
>>6386150
It's like between the plastic grill and the PE grill forming a small triangle of shame that catches the paint. Tomorrow I'll go tot the hardware store and see what they have as I'm going to pop it off

>>6386162
Can you poke it out with the tip of an xacto?

>>6386253
that's dumb he could deform the mesh easily

File: 1.jpg (23KB, 449x590px) Image search: [Google]

23KB, 449x590px

>>6386253
Have this quick illustration. I would need to pop the mesh (I could damage it), scrap the CA from all the hull and the mesh and then glue it again hoping it doesn't happen again.
Overall I'm not sure if the risk is worth the benefit

File: IMG_20170622_224936.jpg (4MB, 4048x3036px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 4048x3036px

Tried my best at freehanding the mod eagle camo but fucking model air is still clogging the brush every 5 minutes. Do you guys use flow improver with it?

>>6385186
Made the mold from latex in a (one piece) spew type and cast it in a 2 part clear resin. It had good viscosity but took a few hours to harden. Not that I was in a hurry.

There's a casting defect in the lower 2 digits of the hand. I'm going to try to sculpt those in with some thinned putty. Failing that, I'll make a new mold with silicon rubber instead and see how that goes. I might turn it into a 2 piece if it proves to be a pain, but the trade off is that I'll get a mold line.

Thinking about it, I might try to use a vacuum seal food container and see if that will help pull some bubbles out since it has a pretty slow cure time.

>>6386306
Maybe you can put some debonder on it and just apply a cheap stiff brush to it. As in poke lightly at the grill to get the hairs to push the crap off and maybe wick some of it up into the brush in the process. Wipe the brush clean, dry, and repeat.

Failing that, if you still aren't thrilled at the idea of removing the grating and there's still a fair amount of gunk, you might be able to just disguise it as a clod of dirt.

>>6386645
I've seen it suggested to use Vallejo's air brush cleaner too thin with, but I've yet to try it.

>>6386645
I use their flow improver on their acrylic primer range. Doesnt do anything, but I suppose I havent tried model air yet

File: 20161102_143104.jpg (2MB, 2592x1944px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 2592x1944px

Just now found out /smg/ exists. Recently finished this T-34/76. I have an M4 Sherman nearing completion too, just needs a little more weathering. Got a Panzer IV ausf F2 on the way in the post so I'll be starting that next.

>>6386645
i use their thinner - i get dry needle but no clogging. some manage with water.

>>6386645
reasons for the airbrush to clog:
1. the paint has thick particles in it because it dried a bit or was kept in the cold.
2. the airbrush is dirty inside. clean it with the small dental braces brush
3. thin it properly - use original thinner, or water, or this: https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Gloss-Acrylic-Medium-Varnish/dp/B000IXQAJY

>>6387099
Looks great, especially the decals. Glad to see a new poster

File: IMG_3301.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

All solved I think. Popped it off and scrubbed it with acetone and the hull with a blade. Can't say 100% that the CA hasn't done the same as it's crystal clear lately for some reason
>>6387099
Breedy gud, but try to take more pics and do an album on imgur so people can see more views and details

>>6387301
>Breedy gud, but try to take more pics and do an album on imgur so people can see more views and details
Good advice. I'm looking at buying a DSLR instead of just using my phone camera so I'll try and get more pics/an album up.

>>6387319
I've been using the one on my phone until the tiran 5 and even without high photography skills is a step up

File: Tiger1-131-Bovington-2004.jpg (51KB, 600x295px) Image search: [Google]

51KB, 600x295px

Any suggestions on which Dragon model Tiger I to buy? 1/35 scale?

>>6387331
If you want penultimate Tiger one kit right now it's the Rye Field Models one.

File: IMG_5047.jpg (248KB, 1124x746px) Image search: [Google]

248KB, 1124x746px

>>6387331
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IlTVUsTNNnM might help, also includes a look at Tamiya. Going by his more recent videos he also seems to think Rye Field Models make ok Tigers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gM1JlHxLhkQ shoeing them.

Protip: dont buy anything from 1001modelkits.com. They advertise as having fast shipping and being based in the US. They are actually based in France, and I've been waiting three weeks on a set of decals.

>>6387466
They have stores/warehouses in alot of countries though.

You probably just had bad luck and they didn't had that exact item laying around in the US, so they shipped it from their headquarter.

>>6387466
>They are actually based in France

Not exactly a problem for those of us in the EU.

>>6387448
>late war
>steel wheels
>transport tracks
>no side skirts
>side ways muzzle brake

>>6387654
Its a museum piece and probably put together from more than one actual tank. Afaik only the bovington 131 is a genuine Tiger where everything is from the same original.

>>6387662
I know, it's just triggering me like a 10 year olds first build. Least they painted it fine

>>6387099
Bretty good but the chipping looks like blobs and the rust streaks are a bit excessive. Also if you're planning to add a lot of scratches and chipping try to do some damage like bent fenders and such. Try looking at reference material.

>>6387519
>>6387497
I should mention that they didn't even process for order for 9 days which by itself is insane

>>6387835
I wouldn't have ordered from them anyway, their prices are among the highest of all hobby online-stores.

But still good to know.

>>6387445
>>6387448
Thanks guys

>>6387709
Thanks for the feedback mate. Agreed, I definitely went overboard with the rust streaks and chipping. Got a bit carried away. I did bend up and damage the rear fenders as they're PEB but can't see them in that pic.

File: IMG_2573.jpg (2MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4032x3024px

Last time I posted just a cockpit, right now it's finishing touches time. p-47m in 1:48 scale, tamiya masterrace. Sorry for the lighting

File: IMG_2586.jpg (3MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 4032x3024px

>>6389255
And a detail on a bare metal underside

>>6386645

Everything went a lot better for me as soon as I started using their flow improver.

I recall a discussion about youtube channels and I stumbled upon this:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrdcVbQE5fUvTKxMbhnN_KQ

not only it's really comfy, but the guy knows his stuff pretty well

Hey guys.
Cross-boarder here.

I'm looking to build a scenic base for a crew of a dozen or so 32mm miniatures, centred around a steam train and coal wagon.
Ideally the train would be a big, blocky, industrial-looking thing.

I'm having a little trouble telling whether O-gauge is actually the scale I'm looking for, and have also read that some companies make models where the track-width scale bears little resemblance to the actual size scale.

Any advice on an appropriate size/guage/scale, and/or recommended manufacturers?

>>6389881
plastic model kits come in 1/35 scale.


Trumpeter WR 360 Locomotive 00216
diesel blocky train
Trumpeter Gondola Railcar 01517
for your coal car

whatever 1/35 figures.

what is the purpose of this ? what is your inspiration

>>6389899
also Trumpeter 1/35 Panzerlok BR 57 Armored Locomotive 00216

that's quite blocky industrial looking.

1/35 train kits tend to be limited to german ww2 armoured trains.

>>6389899
>>6389904
He's talking 32mm so 1/54 or something like that

>>6389908
and that's why I shouldn't reply before bed.

File: Rail Workers.jpg (162KB, 720x359px) Image search: [Google]

162KB, 720x359px

>>6389899
>>6389904
>>6389908
>He's talking 32mm so 1/54 or something like that
From what I've been seeing, I think it's in the 1/48-1/54region, yes.

>Trumpeter 1/35 Panzerlok BR 57 Armored Locomotive 00216
Those do look pretty good, yeah.
I was aiming for something in the space between that and the classic cylindrical shape (a la Thomas).

>what is the purpose of this ? what is your inspiration
A display base for pic related (plus a few more in similar styles).
In-universe (Malifaux), they are the Chinese semi-indentured workersthat helped build the railroads at the turn of the century, now partially in control of the frontier regions of the rails.
The idea would be to have these three on ground level in the foreground, with the two sub-bosses higher (probably cab and coal bed), and the boss either on the roof of the cab or straddling the roof-coal truck divide.

>>6389934
Thing is that for what you want to do the real answer is "scratch build it yourself" which depending of your ability and experience it can be easy or a nightmare.

I don't know any 1/57(32mm) scale model company and anything I could say you could google it yourself. Your next best bet is 1/48 but it will look quite weird and the selection is really poor:
https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?q=*&fkSECTION[]=Kits&fkGROUPS[]=%22Trains%22&fkSCALE[]=%221:48%22

Those kits are all resin, dunno how familiar you're with the material outside of minis and hard to find nowadays probably.

That's where "our official expertise" ends unless you want to go the scratch building route, but not all is lost as the scale railroads (the electric small trains stuff) has a close enough perhaps scale, the "O" scale which is 1/46 or 44 I don't remember exactly, that you could use as the rails and selection of trains will be wide I suppose (don't know how expensive tho).
O scale will look big but maybe you could play it off as in universe huge ass trains or whatever so you should search a local train shop and look around.

I won't recommend 1/35 as it will look really ridiculous unless you convert it quite a bit

>>6389978
>O scale will look big but maybe you could play it off as in universe huge ass trains or whatever
That's probably the plan then.

Last resort I'll break out the bog roll and plasticard.

Many thanks for the help lads.

>>6383184
>not using good ol VM & Naphtha

Depending on how realistic you want it to look:

http://www.sarissa-precision.com/Railways/cat1603369_3138839.aspx

Sarissa does a german armored train (and other trainwagons) from mdf. With a bit of work these can look quite good too.
Scale is roughly around 1/56 and its made for 28mm wargaming.

One time I forgot to put tamiya xf80 before applying an enamel wash and fucking wiped 4 square inches of paint off

File: 20170625_135256.jpg (3MB, 4128x2322px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 4128x2322px

72nd scale Malaysian Boeing 777s beware

File: IMG_2594.jpg (106KB, 1024x682px) Image search: [Google]

106KB, 1024x682px

Aaand done.

File: IMG_2595.jpg (154KB, 1024x937px) Image search: [Google]

154KB, 1024x937px

Welcome to the land down under

File: IMG_2596.jpg (114KB, 1024x741px) Image search: [Google]

114KB, 1024x741px

And a side-by-side with same scale AB41

>>6390526
>>6390524
>>6390538
Shouldnt the guns be gunmetal and not aluminium? Also, the mounting point for the centre line rack isnt installed.

>>6390562
Re gun barrels - not according to manual. In photos difference might be almost invisible, but gun barrels are painted with vallejo metal color Duraluminium, which is darker than the underside. For centre line rack I don't recall tamiya including this part, only the fuel tanks

File: 20170625_155934.jpg (2MB, 3264x1836px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x1836px

Hi guys.
What do you think about my RC tiger 1?

>>6390631
Post a minimum of three pictures of whatever you want to show lad.
I never trust the money shot of anything and much less in 3D detail work like scale modeling

>>6390631
ok if you were aiming for barn find rat style vehicle look. for scale model, way too dirty and rusty.

File: 20170625_155923.jpg (2MB, 3264x1836px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x1836px

>>6390640
>>6390642

File: 20170625_155920.jpg (2MB, 3264x1836px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x1836px

>>6390640

>>6390642
>dirty and rusty
That's the point.

>>6389255
your paint looks like it's just mixed with hair. you're filthy.

>>6390644
>>6390643
>>6390631
>Nice photo shoot of the front and right side m8
What exactly where you trying to do with this tank? it's a DAK one?
Rust and grime are extremely poorly done and off scale, I can't even say if some is like washing up the dunkelgrau under it or if it's grime.
Rust don't appear like that anyway, and if it was abandoned the tracks would be dark rusted anyway.
I can't say much more as we can only one side, also >>6390654 ain't an excuse for poor weathering and having such a large canvas would allow for much subtle and rich detailing and variations in weathering rather than seeing the paint accumulations everywhere

>>6390654
The point of what though?

Tanks were maintained constantly. Either by the crew themselves or by the maintenance teams behind the front. This is even more true in case of a tiger. Each repair would also involve repainting. There would be no rust.

>>6390671
>There would be no rust.

That's pushing it.

But it wouldn't look like that, that much is for sure.

>>6390667
I'm still not sure if it's DAK or Kursk.
That's is my first RC tank , first paint job.
I know I'm amateur but I'm really proud of my tiger.
And normies are enchanted.

>>6390671
>>6390667
no need to be mean lads, he may improve yet


>>6390654
I understand you would like a dirty and rusty vehicle, but it doesnt look dirty or rusty. It looks more like a yellow canvas had some various paints slopped on and then textured onto a Tiger model. I feel like it looks more like an art piece than realistic dirt and battle wear. Try looking at traditional objects with the level of wear that you are trying to emulate, and you will see that your tank doesnt really look like those naturally dirty objects.

File: 1400674280213.jpg (166KB, 826x1169px) Image search: [Google]

166KB, 826x1169px

If I want to use both enamel washes and oils for weathering, what order should I do it in and how long do I need to wait between them in order to not mess up the previous step? I believe I have read between 24-48 hours.

Should I just follow the order in the image? It mainly goes by effect rather than the type of product used, so I'm not sure if it's helpful for my question.

I was thinking of using a basic enamel wash, an oil dot filter, some highlighting with oils as well as a mig nature effects product (light dust).

File: 20170625_181518.jpg (3MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3264x2448px

>>6390667
There you go left side

>>6390688
Thanks.
Of course I will improve.
>an art piece
True.

>>6390684
>I'm still not sure if it's DAK or Kursk.
That's a pretty poor way to start honestly...
It's ok to don't do well on the firsts attempts but yours just show a lack of involvement in the subject and techniques. About normies never ever trust or soak in their knowledge and critique, it's just another image to press the like/upboat/whaetever button and move on to the next thing that might be a nice pic of a dish or a landscape. People (myself included) just consume and move on unless they know their shot on the subject, then mediocre shit and people (not attacking you personally here just a generalization) get on a high horse and keep smearing shit everywhere and getting praise for it. Some will get inevitably better after working that much but there's no soul to it just shilling and getting some free shit/dosh from it.
And for the record I have all my first and shitty models on display and will keep em around as I'm proud of all of them.
>>6390688
I didn't want to be mean but for example his pictures are better than the model itself and I wanted to point out all the stuff he done poorly, and as you said he needs to research real subjects if he wants to bother with weathering
>>6390698
Is a good general instruction, but for your question:
>First do the pin washes with enamels
>Wait 24h so you don't activate the enamels easily (can happen but don't work like a retard)
>Then work the oils, you mentioned oil dots and highlights so this will get more tricky
Personally and without knowing what the fuck you wanna do
>highlights with oils
>+48h
>oil dot
Reason being that the oil dot rendering will break the monotony of the base colors incluing the shading/highlighting but there's no "right way" to do this so flexibility to archieve the look you want is important
>+24h
>enamel dusting for the last

File: 1415629256328.gif (1MB, 350x262px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 350x262px

>>6390631
>>6390643
>>6390644
>>6390700

>>6390717

Thanks, I just needed to get an idea of the order and timeframe. I could have been more specific, I'm doing armor in the desert.

Or rather, I'm trying to imitate it as I'm actually working with gunpla and other sci fi related kits, but I feel like this thread has the knowledge I'm after which is why I'm asking here.

> a lack of involvement in the subject and techniques.
True

I already said I'm new to scale models.
(Thank God I didn't show you my others works...)
>his pictures are better than the model
Seriously?

Thanks for all critics, I'm still learning

Will an enamel pinwash be ok over enamel basecoat, assuming i do an acrylic gloss coat first?

>>6390750
As long as the acrylic varnish coat is well done and protects the base color all is good

>>6390700
>>6390644
>>6390643
>>6390631
Am I the obly person who thinks this looks good? Not sure why everyone is ganging up on this dude when its painted better than 50% of the kits posted here

>>6390775
...yeah, I think you may be in the minority there.

>>6390775
t. certified blind

Someone who considers going into modeling here.

Do you guys mostly replicate existing vehicles with maybe in a specific historically correct state or context? Or do you guys also do more imaginative, fantastical and custom things in this medium?

>>6390787
Some do the former, some do the latter, some jump back and forth.

File: mkWA6iBhnYVANiMubRc8edA.jpg (6KB, 225x149px) Image search: [Google]

6KB, 225x149px

>>6390775
>>6390777
>>6390779
Let's just agree , it looks better than pic related

>>6390787
There is a bit of both going on honestly. I can say with some certainty that the Kingdom Death guy adds some imagination to his builds, and I know for a fact that some people consider it blasphemous to build anything but historical plausibility, if not accuracy.


I'm somewhere in between.


>>6390750
just make sure your acrylic coat is able to get into the nooks and cannies. Pump up the pressure through your airbrush (if that is the application method).

>>6390775
I will be a part of the silent majority no longer.

>>6390787
Here i am Noob with shitty RC tiger.
I made piece of art >>6390688
But others gonna eat you alive if you dont make model exacly as it looks in 23 November 1943 schwere Abteilung 503

>>6390817
Come on man, no need to be salty if some anonymous anon doesn't like it.
As a noob myself it looks fine for the most part except where you see the visible black paintdribs and brushstrokes. Not because it's not periodcorrect but because it gives away the scale.

>brushstrokes
Shit, you got me
Thanks m8

>>6390824
Exactly. The problem isn't that the dirt doesn't fit the dirt at some specific battlefield, the problem is that it it doesn't look anything like dirt and rust, it just looks like someone slopped some reddish brown and black onto a model.

>>6390830
>>6390830
Yep.
Anyway I'm gonna replace upper hull with metal one, so there is gonna be a new paint job.
This time I will be perfect

>>6390838
Good luck anon, that's the spirit!

>>6390775
telling someone that he has to improve is not "ganging up".

Its helpful because how should he know that his Tiger doesn't look good if everything he hears is "great job" "well down" etc like its often the case on modeller groups on facebook?

If you choose 4chan out of all places to present your model i expect you to actively want to hear honest critique and i also expect that you are able to handle some harsh words.

>>6390787
While i enjoy looking at close or exact re-creations of existing vehicles or even builds according to a specific photo that level of accuracy (or autism?) is not for me.

I'm happy enough if my vehicles look authentic without obvious mistakes in color and without being rust-buckets.

Thanks.
My airbrush skills are none.
I'm learning, trying the best I can,
>washing up dunkelgrau >>6390667
And other paints and a lot of work
>>6390853
It's is helpful, and that's why I chosen 4chan.

>>6390861
if i may ask, why do you use an 1/16 tank as your learning subject?
Aren't these RC tanks like 300€+? Why not try airbrushing on a cheap 1/35 Tiger first?

>>6390864
Good questions
I made about 6 German soldiers/officers (tamiya)
Currently building leopard 2a5 1:72
3 Tanks 1:100
Rc tank 1:16 starts at 70$

>>6390864
Uh, and btw I'm learning, building, maintenance, painting RC tanks .(tiger 1 1:16 , leopard 2a5 1:72 and 1:16)
Maybe I'm in wrong thread.but thanks for all the critics.

>>6390884
No problem. I'm looking forward to see your next steps. Nothing wrong with learning and improving.

>>6390884
For building, painting and weathering you're in the right place. Maintaining it (more like trouble shouting I think you mean but whatever) you will have more luck on a real RC forum.
The main difference in painting is that the protection coats need to be thicker and probably the best is using enamels for the base color as those are really durable.
Weathering is the same, except mud and other related effects aren't recommended as will get destroyed by real elements and use. Also you need a final coat despite being a shitter move in static models to protect the weathering from handling and the elements.
Starting with a big scale tank like 1/16 ins't recommended due the high work load, can be done but no one that planned what he wanted to do would do it honestly. To practice get 1/35 models as they will be cheaper and you can do more and you won't need to think about stuff like I mentioned like the several varnishes in phases that aren't usual in static kits or considering enamels or lacquers instead of acrylics and other stuff that you will find down the road, but hey it's not rocket science and everyone starts somewhere right?
So ganbatte shitty tiger anon kun!

Z31 guy here, I finally, FINALLY got over enough depression to set up the airbrush. It's primed, I still have to flip the AA guns and smack the other side with primer (I don't have putty to hold them), and then it's ready for masking and painting. It's been an interesting first build, I'm onto 6 months due to massive procrastination, but hopefully by the end of the week I have pictures I'm not totally ashamed to show you guys.

>>6390905
Good post.
Very insightful.

Anyway my tank is for driving (Remote control)
Really appreciate all of your comments.
I'm into modelling but I'm like half way through... I love all the details nooks and crannies, but my tank is riding through people and shit...

>>6390787
Both. I love tanks and I also love scifi and steampunk

>>6390932
No idea what youre talking about but isk how setting up an airbrush takes any work

I've had an airbrush and a compressor for 4 years now, but can't use it because I live in a commieblock.
How exactly am I supposed to airbrush without painting the inside of my lungs?

>>6391057
do it next to an open window and wear a mask?
if you aren't brushing every day for 5 hours straight then you shouldn't get problems.

>>6391057

Buy or make a spraybooth and wear a mask?

>>6391057
No balcony?

File: 1426730618834.gif (993KB, 236x224px) Image search: [Google]

993KB, 236x224px

>>6390787
>a build gets posted
>gets 1-2 replies
>some dumb shit question gets posted
>a bunch of replies

And I was wondering why barely any builds get posted here

>>6391089
Dont forget in depth discussion about tanks, for some reason

>>6391089
Providing worthwhile feedback is hard. Replying to stupid questions is easier.

>>6391089
Shitpost to get more (You)s.

>>6390993
It's that I have to clean it, and set up an area to paint. I work 7 days a week, motivation is hard to come by.

>>6391148
>I work 7 days a week

Making time for model building probably won't be as much of a concern for you as just keeping your health and sanity.

File: p-47-guns.jpg (62KB, 930x698px) Image search: [Google]

62KB, 930x698px

>>6390562
The actual barrel, yes. The P-47 uses shrouds over them.

Here they are without the shroud covers. Cool, huh?

>>6391156
Well, I don't need to work both jobs anymore, really. But I save so much now working both, I'm sort of trapped. I love the money, I get free flights, but man I work every single day and it's exhausting. I'd love to build models, garden, and game, but when you're always unhappy, just starting work on something is hard.

I have a Z38 kit in 1/700 and I'm damn near done putting Nagato together, but I want some PE AA guns and a catapult for it, and the railings on that will be a damn nightmare, I just never want to start back up. It's hard to live this way.

File: 15.jpg (39KB, 475x540px) Image search: [Google]

39KB, 475x540px

>>6391168
>I love the money /.../ always unhappy

Camels and needles I guess.

>>6391160
>shroud covers
Nigga that's a barrel shroud in the pic

>>6390787
Whatever I feel like.
It's a free for all medium anon.

File: harrier.png (1MB, 761x750px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 761x750px

Right, it came out pretty awful, and I regret not listening to the advice to start with something else, at least it's done and I now have the materials/desire to work through my backlog now that I finally built something instead of worrying it would be terrible..

Probably the biggest things I learned with this kit was the importance of how deadly plastic cement can be, as well as painting instead of relying on decals. (The wing trim is all decals, but should have been done with paint. They shattered whenever I tried to pull them over the wings leading edge and the resulting touch up I did looks poor).

Either way just wanted to say thanks for answering all my stupid questions up till now

>>6391089
You are talking about the plane? I'm an armor guy but perhaps marbling on the boring ass blue, metal panels contrasts in the belly and sharper looking masking in the canopy are some things I would criticize technically as far as I know av¡bout planes.
From the personal stand I find those colors ugly as fuck. Unappealing and boring so it's a scheme I wouldn't have done, it has 0 eye catching features and looks pretty bad anyway.
If you like the colors that's okay and I just stated my personal opinion and that's it, I would like to say what you did well so I don't sound like a prick but as I said I'm an armor guy and in models is easier to see what's wrong that what's well done outside my area of knowledge.
The ab41 looks top notch tho.

As for what such question had more answers is because it's open to everyone and allows discussion and opinions about an open subject relevant to all fields of scale modeling. I don't consider that a shit post (not that is a deep post either)

>>6391389
Agreed the plane isnt very good

File: 5847093065_fc54203ace_b.jpg (113KB, 1024x576px) Image search: [Google]

113KB, 1024x576px

>>6391272

Nigga, a shroud is not the same as a shroud cover. Here is another picture with the covers for your retarded ass.

>>6391457
I would argue a shroud cover is part of the shroud (otherwise you have a barrel shroud shroud), but I see what you mean.

>>6390775
It's definitely got some issues, but I'm painting a Tiger right now and it's abysmal compared to his, so I can't really talk

>>6391375
That doesn't really look that bad.

>>6391375
Looks alright but I think you should have tried to mask and paint the canopy. It's not too late for that though.

>>6391375
Thanks for letting us be a part of the ride. It's always good to see someone understand what needs improvement and strive to do better next time.

>>6391375
Got more photos?

>>6391375
A semi gloss coat would look much better.

Hump de bump

http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs/

Where can I download their guides for free?

>>6393548
>http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
>Grand Total 3USD

ok

File: 20170627_214024.jpg (2MB, 4128x2322px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4128x2322px

>ICM
If the kit doesn't come pre-broken, it will be horribly mismatched

>>6393785
What kit?

File: 20170627_220539.jpg (1MB, 2322x4128px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 2322x4128px

>>6393803
72nd scale BTR-60PB
The fucking inner wheel was 2mm smaller than the hub. What a trainwreck of a kit.

>>6393815
Well, I mean you get what you pay for. It's a pretty cheap kit. Not that bad if you can scratch build and get some aftermarket

>>6393785
reading someone elses build review

>Unfortunately, the wheel centres did not fit into the tyre centres, the openings being too small. Eventually I figured an easy way to address this problem. I wrapped sand paper around a suitably sized paintbrush handle and sanded out the tyre centres until the wheel hubs fitted.

>>6393825
what's the point of a cheap kit then?
I'm not willing to shell out twice as much as I paid for the retarded kit JUST FOR THE WHEELS.
I can get 1.5 1/72 Zvezda kits for that price.

File: 65465465465.jpg (101KB, 678x405px) Image search: [Google]

101KB, 678x405px

>>6393616

File: jethus.jpg (45KB, 640x824px) Image search: [Google]

45KB, 640x824px

>>6390705
>People sanding parts on the sprues to adhere the paint as in painting wood
>Seam welding as some kind of dark sorcery
These lads are in trouble
>>6393933
If you really learn something from those pdfs, the price is not much and has some variety of subjects (well, planes). For more or less a single book, some paints, some weathering enamels or half the price of a nice kit you can learn some stuff which is an investment (hobby wise).
Personally I'm a bit weary based on some stuff I thought it would help but was pretty disappointing/lackluster so nowadays if I have to buy I do from sources that didn't disappoint me during years.
As they don't pay me I won't shill those but try to make sure there's something of real value that complements what you can learn on vids from pros and/or a solid reference material.
TL;DR buy if you're sure it's worth to have or don't mind paying 20 bucks

>>6393838
Being cheap.
Then why didn't you buy a Zvezda kit then?

>Tamiya kit still isn't here from Japan

Christ almighty it's been over a month

I almost forgot I ordered it

>>6394095
out of curiosity, what do you mean by "seam welding"? I get the feeling you don't mean about recreating seam welds of steel plates (as in some 2WW tanks etc.) on scale models...

>>6394794
Seam welding is a term used on snap-together kits, where you glue two pieces together then sand the connection to smooth it out. This creates a seamless look once painted.

Do I need to use some sort of clearcoat in order to weather on top of ak xtreme metal? It feels like a waste to modify the look of it.

I used lacquers for the gloss black base, so chemically speaking I don't think there should be an issue with putting enamel washes on top of it, and it's already glossy enough for the washes to flow well in panel lines etc, but what about other kinds of weathering? I assume it won't really stick to the surface.

>>6394803
Sooo... like glueing plastic model parts with plastic cement glue? :)
Damn that's an unnecessary term

>>6394889
I guess? It's an easy way to say "glue together then putty over the seam and sand until smooth to prep for painting." Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the putty step in my previous post, sorry. And the whole reason a term arose in the first place is because it's not really common sense in the gunpla community--since the vast majority of those kits can simply be snapped together, most people have no experience with gluing or properly finishing a model.

File: IMG_2301.jpg (2MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4032x3024px

Walls painted and greased up. It's an old garage so it should be dirty

>>6395070
Thats a bit much in my opinion

>>6395094
Shoot, this was the wrong photo! Yeah it is, I white washed it and it looks much better.

File: IMG_2666.jpg (2MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4032x3024px

>>6395094
>>6395101
>>6395070
Here it is white washed, but I can't find the one where it looks much better

File: 20170628_201253.jpg (189KB, 849x823px) Image search: [Google]

189KB, 849x823px

More than nothing happening. Kinda.

>>6395301
Interesting

File: 78_zpskr7aw8l1[1].jpg (119KB, 1024x768px) Image search: [Google]

119KB, 1024x768px

any idea how this guys holding those bits on the top of those pins?

-if it was bluetack I don't think the joint would be strong enough to support that offcentre funnel.

-if it was superglue, then using debonder to remove them afterwards, might work but I could be wrong.

any ideas?

What is the difference between a threaded and a self-centering nozzle(like the badger 105) on an airbrush? all the detail airbrushes that i know of, have this tiny threaded nozzle, but i'm afraid of losing it.

also, i heard that self-centering atomizes the paint better. true?

>>6395603

Alligator clips maybe? Though on a second look, it doesn't seem like it.

File: 69_zpslorlxb9y[1].jpg (127KB, 1024x849px) Image search: [Google]

127KB, 1024x849px

>>6395603
>>6395624
nah. heres the page if you want to have a look..

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235013101-z-39-dragon-1350/&page=2

as you can see in pic related, theyre hanging on at all angles.

I would like to post some progress but despite having all the time in the world now I haven't touched the char 2C in a while so imma try to spark some discussion:

>If you could ask for three kits from a top company what would them be?

- I've been aching to make a KV-3 for a while but the only option is a 190€ Atelier infinite resin kit (looks fantastic but that's a lot of money for a 1/35 tank)
- SU-8 artillery in 1/35 (no kit AFAIK of any kind)
- Some 1/53 WWII Japanese prototype/what if tanks like the O-I
>>6395125
That looks better, but have in mind that the brushstrokes have to be in scale if you leave them. with some posters and stuff that will look pretty interesting
>>6395301
When you put the washes this will start to look quite good
>>6395603
I'm gonna bet on either a drilled hole if that's solid enough or resin and surperglue as it's what I use for small or hard to hold stuff. I don't have debonder but I just "pop" it off when I finish painting, with debonder/acetone (careful with acetone) it would be more controlled for sure.
>>6395613
No idea if one is better than the other, small nozzles tend to be threaded rather than self centered as they would fall and get lost easily. That's the main difference I see, convenience.

>>6395603
Its probably been answered but its probably just a very small hole drilled and pinned

>>6395719
Same. No progress cause still waiting on mail. Shit sucks

>>6395735
What did you order?

>>6395739
Spaceguy still waiting on CCCP decals that I ordered over a month ago

File: IMG_2670.jpg (2MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4032x3024px

Just a quick shot before I start to paint it better. Fuse box and conduit.

Trying to decide between AK and MIG modulation sets. AK set has 6 bottles while MIG has only 4. Do you think 4 is enough? Is there much difference in quality of paints?

I'm looking at the panzer grey/dunkelgrau sets if that's relevant.

>>6396103
You can always mix the paint to get more variety in tones. I'd say 4 is enough.

I used a chipping medium for the first time and after doing the chipping it's quite noticeable where I wet the surface even some hours later, in a spot or two it looks like tidemarks.

I assume I simply used too much water, but is there a way to clean this up? Or will it even be visible once I have satin coated?

File: 770eb7eecc2f434791fedef886cfc61c.jpg (55KB, 799x472px) Image search: [Google]

55KB, 799x472px

>>6395719
>If you could ask for three kits from a top company what would them be?

In order

1/72 CV9040
1/72 Stridsvagn m/42
1/700 HMS Tre Kronor

Though simply having more 1/72, both armour and aircraft, from the top guys would be nice.

what is the best detail airbrush for $150? unused.

>>6387662
>>6387672
>Afaik only the bovington 131 is a genuine Tiger where everything is from the same original.
It has a transplanted HL230 engine from a Tiger II so I get the feeling even 131 has a few donor bits.

>>6387654
It's a fairly legit transportation setup; steel roadwheels helped prevent throwing the narrower tracks, and were necessary to support the tank's weight with the outermost road wheels removed for transportation. Side skirts were removed for the same reason, to get the Tiger as narrow as possible to make it within German railway loading gauge.

The cockeyed muzzle brake is just retarded though.

>>6396605
Never understood for what fucking purpose they made the CV90.
It can't carry troops (well, there's the armadillo or something like that that's a modified CV90 to carry troops), it has shit tier armament (a 4 million € vehicle to carry around a 40mm cannon and a coaxial mg), no missiles, meh armor (even with mexas it can only resist 30mm APFSDS and IEDs, never mind anything a mbt can shoot) and it's fuckhueg (I guess having a big platform is good to make variants, but still).
If it had some solid AA capability (and with solid I mean able to replace an SPAAG) and something more going on it would be acceptable

File: s_lvkv90.jpg (80KB, 800x567px) Image search: [Google]

80KB, 800x567px

>>6396733
It's an IFV. It's there to be a shrapnel and small arms-protected battle taxi capable of providing some supporting fire.

If you want AA then there is a SPAAG variant, Lvkv 90, but that one is indeed incapable of carrying troops.

>>6396733
Are you retarded? CV90 is one of the best IFVs.

>>6396827
>
lol

>>6396733
not to make this a military discussion thread, but tanks cant take 30mm APFSDS so not sure why that means it has bad armour.

>Never understood for what fucking purpose they made the CV90.
Neither did anyone else when they made the
>Bradley
>BMP-1
and now that airborne assaults have become even more obsolete
>BMD series

>>6396827
>citation needed
Not that I said it was bad (but it’s neither of the bests anyway swedecuck), just that I don't see why they should spend all that money on such a vehicle.
>>6396842
>T-90 (reported 600-800+mm RHA against 120mm APFSDS on Kontakt-5/Kaktus blocks, no reliable source for hull/turret armor)
>Leopard 2a4+ could carry MEXAS (heavy), a6 has 620-920 RHA
http://www.fprado.com/armorsite/leo2.htm
>m1a2 Abrams frontal arc is immune to almost anything except heavy hitting stuff, sides and back not much as for example a bradley hit one with 25mm AP-DU (not available to the CV90 anyway) and got a mobility kill
http://www.fprado.com/armorsite/US-Field-Manuals/abrams-oif.pdf
A fully loaded a2 with SEP TUSK should resist those kind of projectiles even if the armor is optimized against chemical weapons
I could list the challenger 2, merkava Mk.4, K2 Black Panther and type-99A2 but my sources would be fuzzier. All, allegedly, have been shot with a 120 mm APFSDS in the frontal arc and survived. So no, you can’t kill a modern mbt with a cannon like that.
A gun like the ones the bradley/puma/cv90/bmp-2 (the 3 could take on a mbt probably) and all the other ton of ifvs could go for a mobility kill flanking (a valid as any other tactic to disable a menace) or harass it disabling the optoelectronics system "blinding" them, but for that purpose HE rounds are better and that’s a bold statement as mbts can oneshot them (or any lad with an ATGM for what it matters) out of the firing range of their guns.
I doubt the CV90 will face anything bigger than an IED anyway but making such a juicy target at that price is not a solid investment. It will either face IEDs (which they seem to have taken care of it like all the forces involved in the afghanistan shit show) or maybe RPG/ATGMs at most in an ambush, and those are truly troublesome honestly.

>>6396918
>I have no idea what I'm saying: the post

>>6396979
>I have no idea what I'm saying 2: the post, this time is personal

Finally finished painting the tan base and tracks of the Char 2C, would post a pic but ain't really interesting now. I don't know if it would be better to mask or freehand the green part of the camo.
Also
>all this posts about some shitty ifv
>>>/k/
>>6395747
Still waiting? what the fuck dude
>>6396103
In my humble opinion 6 colors are overkill as >>6396414 said if its to make a single one (six colors to paint dunkelgelb for example), I would use 3 at most desu so mig I guess
>>6396596
Can you post an image, I don't get what you say, you can see watermarks in the top color?
If so it's that you used too much medium and pooled

>>6397044

No, after I did the chipping it was noticeable where I had the water needed to activate the chipping medium. But I revisited the "tide marks" with a moist brush and then later clear coated over it and it's all fine now.

Alright boys, I finally got my fucking decals after 4 weeks. And it turns out I ordered the wrong set. I'm beyond livid. The only company that has any CCCP decals available estimates delivery time in mid august, and Im moving across the country before then.

I just ordered a set of generic decal letters off ebay but they won't be that soviet font and I'm gonna lose my fucking mind

File: 20170629_185817.jpg (864KB, 2048x1152px) Image search: [Google]

864KB, 2048x1152px

Several hundred parts later.

File: 20170629_190038.jpg (773KB, 2048x1152px) Image search: [Google]

773KB, 2048x1152px

>>6397325

>>6397327
that looks pretty bothersome to build and paint

>>6397325
>>6397327
Whoa. What is that?

>>6397429
Bronco FlaK 41

File: 6243760112_IMG_8067.jpg (766KB, 1920x1280px) Image search: [Google]

766KB, 1920x1280px

F-35 guy here. Hear you wanted some WIPs

>>6397739
>F-35 guy here
The one Australian that posted last year?

>>6397739
I sure hope those wheels aren't glued on

>>6391057
>airbrush without painting the inside of my lungs?
get a respirator.

I wanna get into super detailed 1/48 aircraft. Whats a good dauntless base kit to start with?

>>6397196
what about printing them yourself?
can't you order some decal paper?

>>6398094
Unless I fail at scalemates you have Monogram, Hasegawa and Accurate Miniatures (reboxed by Italeri, Academy & Eduard) toolings to choose from. Monogram obviously being mostly of archaeological interest.

I'll leave it to you to check reviews and prices until the choice make itself.

>>6397863
actually I've been here the whole time. Can you guess which posts are mine? I have several in this thread!

>>6397974
They are. Don't worry, I'll live. the toothed wheels rotate so I'll be fine when it comes time to attach tracks.

File: washable-sand-ral-8020-.jpg (59KB, 800x800px) Image search: [Google]

59KB, 800x800px

Did anyone here ever used the Washable line from Ammo Mig?
I know they can by used to create effects such as dust or snow(http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=11097), but can it be used as the base color for the entire model?

I mean, I wanna do some chipping, can it be used for that purpose (RAL 8020 for DAK) or will the entire paint will easily flake off creating "too much chipping"?
When I first bought it I was under the impression that it's a basic acrylic color combined with some degree of chipping fluid just to save the trouble of using both the chipping fluid and the color you want to chip individually, am I wrong with that thought?

File: 20170630_215523563_iOS.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

>>6398658
I have it and I have used it mostly to make base dust to build upon after with pigments/enamels. I'm not exactly sure what is it as it doesn't chip as gracefully as chipping fluids but makes an average job. Personally haven't used it much as I bought it as novelty and testing, chipping fluids are better and for dust enamel and pigments are better in my opinion.
If you leave it be for a day it's like a normal acrylic paint.

File: IMG_0960.jpg (3MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3264x2448px

Saw some WIP, so here's my Sherman (still needs touchup on the base coat). Pointers appreciated.

So given hobbywave never lowered their prices again till the end, who do you think contacted them to buy all the remaining stock. Does this mean a new hobby store will appear for the USA? Or is there some neckbeard out there now who has 10 thousand gallons of paint thinner?

>>6397196
You can probably find the font you're looking for if you dig around enough but it's a bit late now, I guess.
What set did you get by mistake?

>>6398202
The problem with printing out custom decals for him, I think, is that he needs it in white. There's only one printer type in the low cost range that's capable of printing in white and those have been out of production for one or two years. They stopped manufacturing inks for them earlier this year or last year. It's the ALPS dry ink printers.
I saw a Chinese manufacturer that makes a knock off of the printer but I don't know if they're actually in production. I sent an inquiry to a distributor and the language barrier is a huge pain. The distributor seemed interested in selling bulk too.

>>6398951
>he needs it in white
you just print on white decal paper then cut it out.

File: IMG_2693.jpg (2MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4032x3024px

Shop fag here. Got the lights done and hanging.

What are your favorite sources for scale model related reviews/stuff? (apart of scalemates as that is more like a general resource)
For me a mix of moxing, moxdao (navigating my way through google translations is quite shitty but they have a ton of shit early on) and "the modeling news". Armorama when I'm desperate too

File: 546820.jpg (164KB, 339x502px) Image search: [Google]

164KB, 339x502px

>>6400017
Two of your three favourites are stuff you need to run through google translate?

>>6400041
Yep, life is hard. But they post all the sprues and build it (they have the TM leopard revolution already build for example) or at least take good pics so it evens out

File: 813 - facepalm mask rey_mysterio wwe.png (181KB, 424x318px) Image search: [Google]

181KB, 424x318px

>be building an old Tojo fighter kit
>everything going well, even 80s Japanese kits fit really well
>Still have to paint using cans because living conditions don't permit use of my airbrush
>kit came with the meatball insignias on white backgrounds as decals
>figure I can paint the white bands on instead to improve realism plus decals have yellowed significantly
>turns out harder than anticipated
>spray jobs keep creeping onto opposite sides of the aircraft no matter how much I mask
>three paint job attempts and still looks shit
>Also realize I left the area around cockpit unpainted so I could add zinc chromate over where the canopy covers later
>said area now looks sunk in after three layers of paint surrounded it

And I broke all the antenna off while masking too. I'm really disappointed. I even drove an hour to the city's Hobbytown just to grab some Tamiya IJA green.

Anyone got newer issues of the weathering mag to upload?

Harder & Steenbeck Ultra 2 in 1 OR Badger Patriot 105 Extreme?

>>6396751
APCs are battle taxis and in a perfect plan, they would not make contact with the enemy forces.

IFVs are supposed to provide direct support for the disembarked infantry.

>>6401376
I have their 105 patriot and badger quality for the price is unbeatable and the thing is almost indestructible. For detailing I have a chinese copy of some fancy Iwata that barely works and clogs every 2 min so I'm seriously debating if I should buy a new one.
So more or less the options I thought of are the two you mentioned and the iwata HI-LINE HP-BH 02 (which is like the one I wan to replace but less shitty I hope).
Price wise badger is really good, and if the parts quality and build is like the regular 105 it's a solid airbrush.
The H&S has the dual option which is nice if you don't have another airbrush or a conversion kit, the build quality seems good.
I'm weary about the iwata but due it being the real thing of what I have, and overall I didn't like the pressure adjusting and threaded nozzle.
I'm going to get the H&S probably as the pieces are dirt cheap to get, badger ain't expensive but a bit harder to get, so have that in mind just in case you need a new needle/nozzle.
But those two are pretty far in price anon so think a bit what's better for you anyway

File: IMG_20170621_212029_207.jpg (4MB, 5312x2988px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 5312x2988px

What do you guys think of my b17?

>>6401910
why are the cannons at the front so absurdly long?

huge picture, still blurry as fuck.

which it is it?

>>6401918
>which it is it?
dropped a K

>>6401910
Sorry man it kinda looks like shit. That metal finish is ok though

>>6401446
i read that the patriot either shoots too much paint or non at all which makes it shitty for detail work.

>H&S probably as the pieces are dirt cheap to get,
an HS needle+nozzle cost about 50 bucks if not more

>badger ain't expensive but a bit harder to get, so have that in mind just in case you need a new needle/nozzle.
they sell them in my city and parts are pretty cheap to get on amazon.

>>6401910
>>>/r/modelmakercringe

>>6401910
You should post at least three images so people can see it but:
>use masking tape
>thin your paints
>the frontal canopy shouldn't have frames?
>washes motherfucker, do you know them?
>>6401982
Here (spain) the shop where I buy airbrush and paint supplies had the H&S pieces really cheap (20€ for replacement nozzle and needle for example) and the guys are really helpful with repairs and stuff like that, but the badger stuff is harder to get there, more for stock than price, so as I said for me the H&S is a better deal and a nicer step up from the chinese shit even if I never use the big nozzle and just use it for detailing.
It really depends on where you live and what you need so that's why I said that you should think what works best for you in the long run. Not that the things will fall apart or are plagued with troubles but its nice to know that your tools can be put to work again in less than a day for little money.
About troubles with that badger I don't know any so you will have to ""trust"" what others say online, same goes for the H&S too but I found mostly good thing about the latter (but shills get smarter too so I don't know for sure).

>>6402002
I don't see you posting your work.
>>6401910
Looks decent, though there are some areas for improvement, as have been said (in less sugar-coated terms; welcome to 4chan). Look into masking, thinning paints (I think the matt colours especially need it) and washes as a basic few; don't be afraid to try new techniques.

There are also many, many guides out there for model photos; yours isn't as bad as many, but it's still a little fuzzy. Give your camera a clean, and, if possible, set it to a smaller aperture (larger number) to get more in focus. That, or take the photo from further away and crop as needed.

>>6402079
>ad hominem

>>6401910
Hang from ceiling/10

>>6402162
OP or the model?

>>6401910
I like it, miles ahead of my planes

Lookin' damn fine there, You got any others you've done before to show?

>>6402111
>Implying you attacking his skills isn't personal, but him attacking your skills is

>>6402258
it's less about the action of critique and more about the evidence. You have no evidence and thus no argument.

>>6402685
Wouldn't you agree that your lack of evidence and refusal to show it speaks volumes though? Not taking his side or anything but when people do shit like trash talk their neighbors lawn because of weeds around their mailbox while their lawn is a golden brown, this is no different. You're sitting there talking shit about, for all we know or care, is his first model, yet you refuse to show your work, assuming you've done anything worth showing

>>6401910
Looks okay. Room for improvement, of course. I don't know what your skill level is but that sort of thing is hard to really even define anyway.
It looks like your model could use some gap filling.
Some cleaner lines in regard to the painting. You can probably do this with some tape and spray.
Washes will bring out the paneling. Looks like it has raised paneling though, so that might be tricky to deal with. You can put in a few panels with varying shades of silver, maybe, to add some visual interest though.
Weathering will also help bring some visual interest and break up the monotone of the silver. There are a few different ways to do that.

Can't really say much else without additional pics I guess.

>>6402079
>i dont see you posting your work

Its an anonymous image board you retard

>>6402079

I don't believe that you need to be great at doing in order to criticize, so your comment is unnecessary. However, I think you should be constructive when doing so, and >>6402002
is anything but that.

moving in about a month so no more models for me. This shit gets me depressed

File: P1170077.jpg (309KB, 1600x1200px) Image search: [Google]

309KB, 1600x1200px

constructive criticism, plox. i know, i fucked up with color temp.

http://muphlon.com/pichost/P1170072.JPG
http://muphlon.com/pichost/P1170069.JPG
http://muphlon.com/pichost/P1170065.JPG
http://muphlon.com/pichost/P1170076.JPG

http://muphlon.com/pichost/P1170087.JPG
http://muphlon.com/pichost/P1170081.JPG
http://muphlon.com/pichost/P1170082.JPG
http://muphlon.com/pichost/P1170083.JPG
http://muphlon.com/pichost/P1170085.JPG
http://muphlon.com/pichost/P1170080.JPG
http://muphlon.com/pichost/Fri.26.05.2017-22.53.54_willy.pooh.jpg

>>6403290

One of those is not like the others.

>>6403290
Looks fine but you ahould just make an imgur album you tard

how do you guys deal with bubbles forming in your paint?

>>6403438
Dont let bubbles form

>>6403303
wat?

>>6403428
you tard.

>>6403438
i clean my airbrush and check whether my orings are intact.

>>6403303
>>6403507
i get it now.

>>6403505
how?

>>6403507
>i clean my airbrush and check whether my orings are intact.

what if I'm using a brush?

>>6403438
>deal with bubbles
i just accept it as a part of life and go through my day suffering. one day at a time.

>>6403510
>what if I'm using a brush?
then thin the pain.

why would bubbles form on a regular brush?

>>6403531
I am thinning it, I'm using humbrol 117 and it's a really thick paint that no matter how much I thin it bubbles keep popping up.

>>6403531
>then thin the pain
I try but it doesn't go away...
>>6403532
What are you thinning it with? also bubbles only appear if you put a gas in so either you're too vigorous or something is fucking wrong with the pain/thinner.
But why do you care about bubbles if when you brush it you will smear them?

>>6403532
with what are you thinning them? do you use any soap/detergent on your brush? describe your whole process.

>>6403566
grab a bit of paint with the brush, put in on the palate, drop a bit of water on the side, grab a bit of water with the brush and mix it with the blob of paint on the palate, test it on a bit of old newspaper, repeat until the paint flows nicely.

>>6403219
Can't you do more when you've moved?

File: image.jpg (2MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4032x3024px

Practice run on a concrete base. Made of plaster, lines cut. Preshaded with black, then a layer of dark grey, and center of plates highlighted in light grey. Oil wash over the top. Suggestions on how to make this better?

I think the preshading is too heavy, and the plaster soaked up a lot of the greys. Also some weird effects on the side

File: cracked-pavement-sidewalk-crack-unlucky-luck-avoid-the-cracks-in-the-A6A4H8[1].jpg (419KB, 1300x953px) Image search: [Google]

419KB, 1300x953px

>>6404563
I think perhaps you should have modulated different flags in slightly different shades.
rough them up with something. they don't really have any texture
add dirt/soil in between
just observing references on google images. looks fun desu.

>>6404563
whats the diameter of that. Because, as >>6404581 suggested, you could add texture by cutting out squares of sandpaper, and that should give you a very concrete-ey feel. If its 1/35, i'd use 200 grit or similar. 1/72, use 400 grit, you get the picture.

>>6404881
Diamer is about 6 inches, scale is 1/8

>>6404924
I'd use 80 grit in that case

>>6404563
Preshading is definitely too dark. Maybe you should try working the cracks in with something a little sharper. There was something I did a while back with plaster that got me a rough texture but controlling how much might take some practice. Basically what I did was, while the plaster was still damp, I made a film of (uncured) dry plaster powder on my hands and clapped it together over it a few times to get the fine particles to settle. If you sprinkle it a bit heavier, it starts to take on a convincing dirt floor texture.

>>6404563
this is a great resource for anything anyone needs when building the surfaces of a diorama.
https://davidneat.wordpress.com/tag/textures-in-foamboard/

have a look through it, somewhere down the page is various stuff on texturing the surface with a wire brush, makes it look porous

>>6405358
That guy is fuckin good

Is everyone on vacation? This board is super dead

>>6405664
we hit post limit.

Someone should make another
I've done it twice in a row now

>>6405693
Do it up bro

File: maxresdefault.jpg (331KB, 1632x1224px) Image search: [Google]

331KB, 1632x1224px

how would you guys paint sun damaged paint?