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Scale Model General

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Thread replies: 333
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This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) model kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Some helpful guides to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs/


Have a question about a kit? Check out:
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/


Previous thread >>6315762
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Bike boy reporting in
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>>6338452
Still looks like absolute shit
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>>6338452
you really need to clean your living space.
are you beaten with a stick and kept in a cellar or something? are those wet spots drool?
>>
>>6338458
This is a work bench in my garage and those spots are just dried wood glue
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>>6338455
How so
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>>6338473
Think about the special effects guys who remade those tank traps for the movie Saving Private Ryan. They couldnt just leave them to rust in the ocean for months to create a natural look about them, they had to study real examples and then fake it convincingly so that it looks like its been out in the ocean. They also had to think about how that 'makeup' would fare in the ocean, and make it resilient enough for the conditions.

Now apply the same line of thought to your tank trap. Yes it's brown, but natural rust doesnt look like that and if you lifted your version of the tank trap and lined them on a beach, it would look like absolute shit.

That goes for literally every single element in your diorama and you'll come to appreciate that, although you might have tried really hard, it's actually a pile of dog shit and no one should be proud to display that in and of itself.
>>
>>6338452
I recommend to check youtube for miniature painting tutorials and "how to use a wash"-videos.
you can improve your minis by alot with some really easy steps.
>>
>>6338452
Is this for the anniversary of D-Day?

Dont be discouraged, every great artist started at the bottom. It may take a thousand unseen repetitions to get a skill as good as you'd hoped they would be from the beginning but it is in those repetitions which the skills are developed and honed. Keep at it and improve on every model, it is only a waste of effort if you learn nothing. You may learn faster or slower than others, but continuing to learn and trying new things to sort out the best and preferred methods is the way to go. Just dont end up like QDC is what I'm trying to say.
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>>6338455
Look at your figures. Now look at mine. See a difference?
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>>6338501
>points with toe
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>>6338501
The flesh color always seems to go on either to thick or to thin. What ratio of paint and thinner do you use
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>>6338497
Just wondering, whats wrong with QDC i dont think hes that bad
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>>6337457
Test your might.
>>
>>6338311
Wut is it sempai? I'm still waiting from the 8th of May my scalper-tier mini. I suppose tomorrow or wednesday will be here if it helps to soothe your shipping 'tism.
>>6338306
Ammo mig and vallejo
>>6338452
The total lack of cohesion between the elements and the bland look of them.
Rust the obstacle with the spongetechnique and several rust colors, try some pigments to give it some texture too. The sand needs a lot of work, but outside of grabbing some real fine sand and gluing it with a matte glue I can't think what to do to it, check a diorama book as I'm sure there's some better trick. As for the water you will need some of these http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/diorama-effects/family/35
I have the still water and the transparent water ones and used them on a base (can post pics if you want them) and they are really easy to work with, but don't rush it or you will get cracks like me and more work to repair them.
>>6338588
That's pretty interesting to do
>>
>>6338784
I have still water and thats what i used. I dont have any of the others. Sslo cpuld you post a picture of your work
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>>6338840
Sure, I haven't post much of this as it's for a warhammer contest and not related to this thread, but now that I think of it it would been interesting for those doing dioramas perhaps.
It's all done with still water except the small waves (more like water disturbance from wind but I'm not sure how to do that right so this will do) that they are done with "transparent water" which is kinda like a gel. Don't do like me and pour it in very small layers so it doesn't crack, also check how it interacts with other materials so they don't create bubbles.
Still drying the last waves, I'll add more maybe but I'm not sure so they don't look out of scale or too much.
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>>6338852
And the fucking cracks, I spent more time covering them than if I had done a smaller layer.
>>
>>6338854
Now you know how to make ice cracks
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>>6338858
Yeah. Also now that I see >>6338854 in a big screen I see my rage fueled shaking in all it's glory
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So I got tired of waiting so I went out and bought a Revell bushplane to bide my time. I took the blue backpack from the tank crew of a ZSU 40 I made a while back.
>>
Test
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JESUS DICK ACADEMY DECALS CAN SUCK MY NUTS

OFFICIAL LIST OF KITS I HAVE BOTCHED BEYOND SAVING:
>Bandai X-Wing
>Bandai A-Wing
>Bandai Poe X-Wing
>Academy P-51D

ON THE CHOPPING BLOCK:
>Revell Me410
>30 year old Hasegawa 109

FUCK THIS GAY HOBBY LITERALLY ONE MINUTE PIECE RUINS WEEKS OF PRECISION WORK
>>
>>6339039
>that mustang
>precision

I dont think the decals are the problem
>>
>>6339039
>OFFICIAL LIST OF KITS I HAVE BOTCHED BEYOND SAVING:
>Bandai X-Wing
>Bandai A-Wing
>Bandai Poe X-Wing
>Academy P-51D

Wish I had those kits so I could do them justice.

>FUCK THIS GAY HOBBY LITERALLY ONE MINUTE PIECE RUINS WEEKS OF PRECISION WORK
>BOTCHED BEYOND SAVING:
You got to finish models honestly, working through the mistakes and fixing them if you can.
Look at it this way, if you fuck up a decal, why trash the model and all the other decals you didnt apply? Why not use the model as a practice horse to get good at applying decals? Doesnt make sense that your models dont look like the imagined perfection, so you stop modelling, thus preventing you from ever reaching that goal.


>>6338520
He does pretty much the same thing all the time, explains it not quite enough but also spends too much time "showing" how he did it. For example, he just places two pieces of the hull together in an obviously scripted scene and in the next it's just magically glued together. I understand for beginners, going over every step is important but he neither goes over the step in detail or does it quickly for people who have seen a hundred tank hulls go lazily together.

Compare 99% of his scenes with PLASMO. He (bless his eastern european accent) uses each scene to inform what he is doing and what he is using to achieve something. Why he does it is either stated, shown almost immediately after or is obviously required.
>>
>>6339039
Calm down, there's nothing to be angry about. If you're getting this stressed about a hobby perhaps its not for you.

Take some time, watch some youtube video tutorials on model making, or better yet, buy some modelling books. Fuck, just reading a basic guide to model making like finescale modeller's beginners guide is a good place to start. Look for these on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Essential-Skills-Modelers-FineScale-Modeler/dp/0890247919/
https://www.amazon.com/Building-Detailing-Aircraft-FineScale-Modeler/dp/0890247234/
https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Second-FineScale-Modeler-Books/dp/0890247064/

Are you handbrushing? If not, an airbrush is your best ticket to improving your results as well. Hell, you can make your own stencils (which I do) by using the decals as a template and making masks with tamiya masking tape. Works well for things like the aircraft insignia, but you still need decals for the smaller stuff like lettering and whatnot. Get a good mid-range airbrush like a badger patriot, a H&S Ultra or an Iwata Eclipse if you want to spend a little more money. Get a good compressor with a water trap if you live in a humid area, and don't forget to drain the tank often.

Yes, decals do suck sometimes, but there's alternatives you can buy on the Internet for planes of all scales, check out ebay.

tl;dr - calm the fuck down and take some time to imrpove your results before bitching, there's plenty of resources out there, both free (youtube) and paid (stuff I posted above).
>>
>>6338501
>Trashes others thinking he is some hot shit.
>Can't even do the basics and remove mold lines.

You can tone down of being such a fucking asshole there bub
>>
>>6339438
to be fair, his figures are actually much better
If you want to talk him down, post something better
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>>6338515
What paints are you using? Acrylics? Enamels?

This might help a little bit for tones but there are a couple of ways you can apply.

http://powellminipainting.blogspot.com/p/painting-skin-tones.html

For acrylics, I like to layer a lot of really thin, semi transparent layers. It allows you to transition colors smoothly and create subtle hints to the skin. It takes some patience though.

I just got this Chinese knock off Ma.K resin figure and want to do some experimenting with skin tones using some different paints. I'll try to post some images to show process and results.
>>
>>6339445
Never said his figures looks bad, they do indeed look great. But there's no point to call off something as "absolute shit" without a real recommendation/advice on how to improve, and then share your stuff like you're some hot shit, when obviously it has it share of flaws.
>>
>>6339526
Idk man the only mold line I see is on the right shoulder and thats only if I look really hard
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>>6339605
I agree with the other anon about talking shit without actually being constructive or offering advice/tips.

I could see at least a couple of other mold lines but what bothers me are the yellow markings on the cuffs. Those could have been dressed up some IMHO. I admit though that my vision has been getting all kinds of fucked up lately, I might need to resort to working over a magnifier to do fine detail. To think I used to be able to read the serial numbers off of an Omega watch without assistance only 3 years ago.. Jesus Christ.

Anyway, it's neither here nor there. The main point of my posting is in the first sentence.
>>
>>6338520
I think hes just mediocre.
I watched him pre shade a Russian tank, then paint it so thick it ended up flat green like some beginner looking model.

not really the person you want to be teaching you how to do things.
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who /almostfinished/ here?
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>>6339730
looks decent. whats left?
no tail swastikas?
you could add some antenna wire with stretch sprue.
>>
>>6339730
I'm kinda done, can't say the same for what I'm currently building though.
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>>6339975
>looks decent. whats left?
some matte finish and a bit of weathering/smoke marks
>no tail swastikas?
they didn't came with the decals, I could buy some 3rd party or I could hand paint them but I actually forgot about them until just now
>you could add some antenna wire with stretch sprue.
I'm checking some tutorials right now, mite b cool
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>>6339730
i love planes with teeth/a mouth at the nose.
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>reddit
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>>6340177
didn't know tigers could catch measles.
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>>6340177
Did they.... use a pipette?
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>My little T-90 is the OP image for one of these threads

I-I feel so special...
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>>6340235
Pls respond >>>6331887
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>>6340246
I didn't keep a build log, but I can explain how I did some parts of it.

The lights are just made from two red LEDs and a coin battery, the shtora dazzlers normally have a gap between them and the turret but I bridged that with clay and superglue, then drilled holes through with increasingly large drill bits, painted the insides silver to reflect more light, and glued the LEDs to the inside of the turret so the light would shine through, which required carving out a bunch of plastic inside the turret to make them fit.

The camouflage was done by spray painting the whole thing black, then masking it with a bunch of poster putty/blu-tack/whatever you want to call it, spraying Krylon "almond" paint that looked way too light at first but darkened with flat coat, more masking, and finally the green.

Then carefully painted the little details like the anti aircraft gun, little hoses going to the fuel tanks, log on the back, etc.

The weathering on the kit was done by first lightly drybrushing everything with gunmetal(though so much of it rubbed off that's barely noticeable), then washing some stuff with black and brushing thinned black paint around and under the vent on the left side of the hull to look like some black stuffs been dripping out of it as seems to be the case in a lot of pictures, I don't remember which but I dry brushed or washed the whole thing with light brown/beige paint so it'd look dusty and dirty as it does in a lot of pictures, then used a combination of washing and drybrushing various browns and black around the tracks, wheels and skirts.

Matte coated the entire kit.

The little blue camera lenses are made by cutting out pieces from some shiny chrome looking sticker sheets that come with lots of gunpla kits, then just turning them blue with a marker, carefully inserting the bigger one, and having to hold the little square one in place with a very tiny amount of super glue because it kept falling off.
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>>6340246
>>6340292
T-90-chan needs a bath, look how dirty she is...
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>>6340292
>>6340298
Thanks a lot, the LED work is brilliant, they just shine through the plastic?
What impresses me the most is the dusty weathering you archived. I put most of the effort on the weathering stage, mostly washes and drybrushing followed by humbrol mattcote, and while my kits do look weathered and dirty, I fail to archive that natural "dusty" finish.
>>
Some anon asked for the typhoon last thread or the other.
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/1076997-takom-2082-mrap-kamaz-63968-typhoon-k
Lucky cunt.
>>
>>6340177
Literally the guys first model. Cut him some slack
>>
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>>6340356
>they just shine through the plastic?

Pic-related is how they work, LEDs are still in the turret rather than being inside shtora blocks, back of shtora blocks doesn't touch front of turret on an accurate T-90, so I had to make a little tube connecting the back of the shtora to the front of the turret for the light to shine through, no clear lenses, just holes going directly to the inside of the turret, I could probably cut some clear plastic into circles and put them in but I'm too lazy for that, it'd take a lot of effort to get perfect circles in the perfect size, and they'd probably fall out easily.

I assume your pic a model you made?
It looks pretty decent.

Not sure how I achieved an apparently pretty great dust effect, I just remember brushing on light Browns really lightly and rubbing it off if it seemed too heavy.

I think using some sand/beige colored paint around the whole model will help, most of the pics I've seen of dirty tanks have similarly colored dirt covering their surface, making the colors blend together a bit, look more muted, and the whole vehicle look less dark, the black wash and dark browns of your pic make the tank look more wet and muddy than dusty.

Just keep experimenting more and I'm sure you'll eventually perfect your weathering skills, I've still got a long way to go myself.
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>>6340406
I see now, great work on that LED setup.
Maybe that's it, I indeed employ very dark washes, gonna give it a try with more brown/beige ones in my next kit. Thanks a lot for the advices, I really appreciate it.
>>
>>6340374
10 minutes reading on the internet would get him to produce better results than that.
>>
What colors are used to accentuate panel lines and in what cases?
>>
>>6340528
I typically use burnt umber but it depends on your colors
>>
>>6340528
I usually go with either thinned black that's been cut with a sufacant or burnt umber water mixable oils.
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>it's here, hell has arrived at long last
Just when I was getting ready to leave it came. If someone wants to see the most expensive kit I'll probably own gr/€, when I open it tonight I can post some pics (it's a resin(?) kit from death kingdom).
>>
>>6341085
please do
>>
>>6340528
My default is a mix of black and burnt umber. For lighter coloured stuff I go more grey.
>>
>>6341085
>tfw your package has been on a sorting warehouse since the 17th

I CAN SEE IT ITS RIGHT THERE YOU MOTHERFUCKERS JUST GIVE ME MY SHIT REEEEEEEEEEEEE
>>
>>6341145
Whenever I order something from Germany the local carrier that takes over from DHL does a three day dance of trying to deliver (Oi, I got a fucking job ya dolts, how the fuck did you think this would work out?), trying again to deliver, and then finally dropping it off at the local supermarket for me to show up an collect.

Just dump the fucking thing there to begin with, is that too much to ask?
>>
>>6340177

You need to stop doing this same shit. It makes you look pathetic. Unless your models look like pic related, you should sit down and zip your shit hole.
>>
>>6341287
do you know where you are? on what part of the internet?

im sure one day he will be able to laugh at his first model too.
>>
>>6340177
I wish my first model looked like that
>tfw you were a kid and didn't gave a fuck so you just decalled everything because painting is for nerds

I'm still tracking that kit in the hopes of making it right this time
>>
>>6341303

Take your high school shit somewhere else, bobby.
>>
>>6341287
Me gusta
>>
>>6341287
I built the plane on you pic faggot, so my shithole remains unzipped.
So did I touch a nerve? Do your tanks have shitty camo as well?
>>
>>6341314
Sure you did
>>
>>6341314
All these claims yet no proof
>>
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Newest Resin model. A 1/25 scale version of the Hot Wheels "Boom Truck." I hope to get started on it here soon.
>>
>>6341382
Here is the Hot Wheels car
>>
>>6341314
well then fix the fucking nose turret, its got a gap in it bigger than the one in your front teeth
>>
>>6341385
>>6341382
But why
>>
>>6341382
>scale model of a toy that it's an scale model on itself

holy shit how is this even a thing?
>>
>>6341382
is it a jimmy flintstone studios? he usually has some cool stuff.
>>
>>6341412
Technically the toy is not a scale model, because there is no real version of this vehicle in existence.
>>
>>6341421
So gundams, ma k and most sci fi models are not models. Got it.
>>
>>6341382
now i've seen everything

link to the company doing those please.
>>
>>6341407
Because it's cool!

>>6341412
Take the 1/64 scale
Figure out dimensions in 1/1 scale
Size that down to 1/25

>>6341413
Nope, not Jimmy Flintstone. This guy, Chris Walker, works for hot wheels designing cars for them. He just wanted a 1/25 scale one.

>>6341421
It is a scale model silly. They based the "Boom Truck" off a mini truck from the 80s/90s.

>>6341453
Chris Walker is the guy, he's on Facebook. Unfortunately I think this was the last one he did, but there are several others that people bought. Maybe on eBay?
>>
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>>6341085
Okay here's whats in the little box. The box itself is really nice tho.
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>>6341696
Contents:
>A card(?) with a close up of the art in one face and in the other says "art kingdom death"
>A full print of the art
>A slightly big base that seems to be made to fit the smaller ones
>A small (30 mm) base of ground
>Another base but this one seems specifically made for this fig
I suppose that you can choose which one you want to put the fig in and the big base.
>A finely detailed and crafted mini, haven't measured but more or less 60mm tall, but until assembled and measured with something I'm not sure
That's it, no instructions or extra gear.
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>>6341701
And the parts themselves.
The detail is magnificent and crisp but it's not worth overall 112€ really. If it was bigger (1/24 at least) I would be okay with it but fuck scalpers and fuck poots for doing small runs desu.
Painting this one looks really fun anyway so it will be a sweet and sour build.
>>
>>6341701
Yeah, I've never seen a KD fig come with instructions. They're generally easy enough to figure out without a slide rule with the possible exception of their giant kits. I haven't run into any problems either way but at the same time, I haven't actually completed any of them yet. I really need to make a ventilation box...

Anyway, it looks like a nice model. How much did the purchase rape your wallet for?
>>
>>6341714
85$ (76€ more or less) plus 16$ shipping and the rest customs. I should have restrained myself and keep it all at 60$ at most, but I was a bit worried about loosing and put 85 on the autobid thing so it seems it went up form 50something to 80something in the last minutes. This one sells mostly for 70 if I remember well, so I was a sucker for putting that much.
>>
>>6341720
>paying all that dosh for fap material
>>
>>6341772
If at least could use it as fap material I would be slightly happier right now. All the direct-to-stash™ kits I could have bought would been a higher bang per buck surely but I hope this fig will keep me entertained. At least I didn't waste it in more warhammer trash this time...
>>
>>6341701
>>6341696
>>6341710
Out of all the neckbeard faggotry in this thread you are the worst
>>
>>6341720
Ouch. Not sure if there would be some kind of encore next Easter, to be fair. I'd say 50/50 but I'm just taking a wild guess.


>>6341772
Pretty sure people have paid more than that for fap material but to each their own, I guess.
>>
Redpill me on weathering with tempera paint
>>
>>6341710
>>6341701
>>>53337677
>>
>>6341962
Damnit, how do you link threads from other boards again...
>>
>>6341864
K, are you intimidated by that mini anonkun?
>>6341871
If they do a re-release I would be quite upset...
>>6341901
I didn't know people used that. I suppose a hybrid between weathering with acrylics (like Vallejo stuff) and acrylic oils. I used watercolors some time ago when I started weathering with meh results but now I would see some uses for them.
>>6341965
I think is >>/board/postnumber
>>
>>6341992
>>>/tg/53337677
>>
>>6342086
I KNEW it was 3 >'s!
>>
>>6341992
Well... they do 'encours' sometimes, so who knows?

>>6342086
Pretty sure it's a display piece but the lines kind of blur at the edges for scale modeling. But so long as the thread doesn't completely derail, I'm okay with a little bit of drifting.
>>
>>6341710
You... You paid 112€ for a figure that's 6 centimeters tall. Do I need to tell you how sad that is? Are you self aware? Or can't you see yourself in the mirror past the rim of your fedora?
>>
>>6342169
Wait holy shit its that small? I didnt even notice that. OP confirmed for idiot
>>
>>6342169
>he can't even spend more than a hundred bucks in hobby stuff
>he shitposts in jealousy and bitterness instead of carrying on

Sad. Also I get calling him a neckbeard or a weabo but the fedora doesn't make sense to me here or does it?
>>
>>6342169
I guess you could say I care about him. I could get a nicely detailed 1/350 Yamato from Tamiya for about $130, which gives me 40 inches of model to display, and a hell of a lot more to work on and enjoy than a simple figure. I also have just never understood the appeal of oversexualized cartoon bullshit, choc full of size HH tits and thighs that are fatter than my student loans, and you should know, being on 4chan and all, that neckbeards tend to love fedoras
>>
>>6341772
>>6341864
>>6342169
>>6342250
>>6342255
>>6342439
Honestly you guys are the real autists here. You guys didnt buy it. Who cares that someone else spent their own money on something they might enjoy?
Don't you realise he paid scalper prices because of the low production run numbers?
I've been looking at buying one of these figures as well because all I want to do is build and make things which I find beautiful and aesthetically pleasing. If that only means tanks, planes or ships for you, then good for you.

I'm sure we have all had the same experience of somebody looking down on our hobby saying exactly the same thing about the thing you purchased with your own money.
>You spent how much on a model plane?
>Does it even fly?
>What an idiot, you could buy so much other stuff with that kind of money

And here you guys are, being the literal brain dead simpleton who thinks their own opinion about sensibility trumps all others.
>>
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Is T-90AM anon around? Wanted to thank him for his advice and for letting me use his kit as reference for mine.
Here is my finished kit, the setup is "T-90A in Syria", hope you like it.
>>
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>>6342485
>>
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>>6342488
>>
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>>6342489
I was looking to make an interesting build, I hope I have accomplished it. Thank you.
>>
>>6342485 good shit anon, looks a lot like a t-90 that was sort of cobbled back into commission with a bunch of shit lying around. Is it 1/72 scale?

Also, does anyone know what type of damage a regularly used bushplane would be susceptible to? I could imagine fading and stripping of the clear coat up top, as well as some chipping on the front of the wing, but I can't think of much else. Fading of the paint where the pilot would grab onto to get in? heavy chipping and dirt underneath?
>>
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>>6342518
Thanks! Yes it's 1/72, it the Revell T-90A kit.
I purposely painted parts green to represent spare parts in factory color, as well as red because the Syrian crews like to do it.
The civilian fuel drum color combo was copied from anon's kit.
>>
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Carfag here, just finished this Revell AMG GT.

I'll try to take pictures of my next build to help anyone who is interested in making a car kit as the majority of subjects here are tanks.
>>
>>6342485
>>6338438
Kit seems to be quite the popular.
>>
>>6342572
Looking quite sharp, there is no way I could build a car kit, they are just so meticulously clean and have clear parts, while 90% of building my kits is weathering. Really respect you.
And it's funny you mention it, everywhere else the 90% if the builds seems to be planes, it's funny the tankfags clustered here.
>>
>>6342584

There's no dark art to building a car kit, a lot of it is just patience and planning; figuring out paint and glue order. If you enjoy weathering, you could build a race car and do it in the style of finishing a 24hr race.
>>
>>6342529
Looks really good.

Do you got a reference pic for the solid steel plates as side armor?
>>
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>>6342584
There is nothing wrong with using dust or mud on a car though. Even "battle damage" might work on some.

Lots of rally car or offroad/4x4 kits are available.

like pic related (which is not mine)
>>
>>6342601
>>6342615
Oh well, of course you can weather cars as well, it's just that by default they are well maintained and un-damaged.
At least in my case I do not mind a few fuck ups during the building and painting since they will not notice due the weathering and the filters on top, the kit being overall interesting is more important than it being perfect. Car kits are interesting because they look good, you look at them all around as you would a Ferrari on the street, they are pleasant to watch and look cool.
Maybe that's just me, not saying one kind of hobby is better, just noting the different philosophy I feel they have. I will definitely try a Subaru kit one day, or a Lancia, those are cool.
>>
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>>6342612
Of my specific setup no. The T-90 has those huge ERA plates on the sides so I came up with that.
There is such clusterfuck of up-armored vehicles in Syria I took a bunch of them as reference.
>>
>>6342632
Here is a pic of a T-72 with the red bits (in order to represent the colors of the Syrian flag). The extra .50 was my idea, as well as the Enigma-like slat armor on the back of the turret.
You can find more reference photos in here:
http://spioenkop.blogspot.cl/2017/03/armour-in-islamic-state-diy-works-of.html
https://tankandafvnews.com/2016/01/18/armored-oddities-of-syriairaq/
>>
>>6342629

There's no better part to the hobby, the beauty of it is that you build what you want. I'd like to try a plane one day but alas I wouldn't know where to start
>>
>>6342644
I agree. I find it cool tho that even under the same hobby there are so many branches.
>>
>>6342632
I've heard that the armored skirts were badly designed and were the first things to break off.
>>
>>6342726
Part bad design, part lack of proper maintenance.
It's not uncommon for a single hit of an RPG and consequent explosion of an ERA brick causing the whole rusty and weakened skirt to fall off.
They also attach extra armor plates, separated from the sides, with the porpoise of work as spaced armor against HEAT.
>>
>>6342740
Welll... I've heard they fell off just from maneuvering through the city...
>>
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Trumpeter Hotchkiss H35/38
(I maintain that the kit is crap but I need to see it to the end. Fist shaking and all)

Laser printed decals are definitely nicer but I noticed some weird artifacting going on for some pieces despite the 300+ dpi. It might be the printer or its onboard software, I'm not sure. Funny the Kuromine markings (the Iron Cross looking roundels) look a little bit better on my last Ink Jet attempt.

I threw in some extra stuff to fill up a little space. I have a 7TP I want to build up, so I can definitely use the Bonple roundels.
>>
>32 new replies

they must be arguing about something
>>
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>All this rustling for some mini
Eh, I'm quite happy with it. I have been studying it and it's going to be a test of brush proficiency and detail work and a ton blending and sharp contrast so it's going to be quite fun.
>>6342485
I did pic related but is a T-90MS, I looked for the AM version and looks the same so I guess it the non export version or just another designation to it, also your fuel barrels remind me of mine so I guess it me.
Solid technique and beautiful execution anon, those plates are really good and the overall tone of the build is really well done and gives the syrian tank vibes. All in braille scale so nice job and (if it was my t-90) I'm glad to have helped you!
>>6342518
What's a bushplane?
>>6342572
That's a neat job, you should post some more pics.
>>6342750
Nice, how's the thickness and do they wrap well around details?
>>
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>>6342572
they should rename these threads to "Military Scale Model Thread" cause they barely have anything else ever. i am glad to see someone else who does cars, heres a few pics of my faves
>>
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>>6342817
>>
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>>6342817
oh and ive setup front and rear lights in the wrc
>>
>>6342817
>they should rename these threads to "Military Scale Model Thread"

That might scare you guys away, so let's not. I'm not going to build anything civilian any time soon, but I still think it's nice to see as much of the hobby's width as possible here.
>>
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>>6342817
ok last one
>>
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>>6342824
well yeh i guess, maybe we need to get some mad max vehicles together to counter the tanks and find somewhat of a middle ground
>>
>>6342484
>I've been looking at buying one of these figures as well

Then you're a neckbeard faggot too
>>
>>6342485
Dog that looks awesome
>>
>>6342817
I don't really do cars but I might if i could find a decent selection in 1/35 or possibly 1/72
I think I have a 1/35 Panhard hand cranker somewhere though.

>>6342801
They should wrap around details fine with the usual softeners and stuff. I haven't tried this brand of paper but so far it's looking fairly promising. If there's time, I'll seal the printing up and try applying something later today.

>>6342828
Welcome to 4chan (=`ェ´=)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyNyHark4xk
>>
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>>6342854
>(=`ェ´=)
>>
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>>6342801
A bushplane is typically used in Alaska since there are a lot of town that are only accessible by plane. The bushplane is unique because it's lightweight, has massive wings, and has large and soft tires for landing on uneven and damaging terrain, like this
>>
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Eh, whoops. Those AA gun platforms and the solid bit of railing by the second funnel? Yeah, shouldn't be any of the regular railing there.
>>
Whats the best way to blend acrylic paints? I want my washes and dry brushed areas to look smoother. I know this is a technique used for miniatures but I cant find anything more specific than "use paint retarded" or "use medium"
>>
>>6343019
its called "wet blending".

https://roemersworkshop.wordpress.com/2014/11/20/tutorial-wet-blending/
>>
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>>6342827
>maybe we need to get some mad max vehicles together

That actually sounds like a pretty cool idea, I love post apocalyptic stuff, and making armor and gun mounts for a car would be pretty fun.

Any car/truck models in 1/35 or 1/72?
Those scales would make it easier to put weapons from military models on them.
>>
>>6342489
>That slat armor

How'd they get an strv 103 in Syria?
>>
>>6342895
I don't think theyre going to have much weathering, they have pretty strict regulations on flying and maintenance.
even the crashed ones still have decent paint.
>>
>>6343095
Not true at all. There wont be phyical weathering like broken off wings or anything, but realistic weathering could include homemade patches, mud, dirt, dents and rust
>>
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>>6342817
>>6342572
I'm hugely nervous because I've got my first ever car kit coming in the mail, one of these. It's also the first model I'll ever actually have to paint. I've been sorta getting into painting the past couple months, and so far most of my work has been... eh... prime, basecoat, drybrush, and seal and then just hope for the best. I'm also used to the more gunpla style of snap-together kits with the occasional bit of superglue to take care of wriggly bits, so I have no idea what kind of glue work I may have to do here.

Hell, it's an automotive paint job, I'll probably have to get actual paint, maybe even an airbrush or something... sounds like a lot of work...
>>
So, 1/700 ship, they don't usually do much shading/gradients/modulation on those, do they?
>>
>>6343164
Dude you definitely gotta make that into a mad max car
>>
So I ordered some mr surfacer 1200 and the leveling thinner.
How much should I thin it?
Can I mix it in the cup or is that asking for trouble?
PSI/distance/how thick or thin layers?
>>
I would really like to have a collection of well made jet fighter models. Unfortunately I lack the patience and persistence needed to develop the needed skills to make said models. I also have hands better suited to physical labor than fine detail work.

What I was thinking of doing is buying built and painted models instead. Got any recs on where I can find pre-made and painted models of jet fighters? Thanks!
>>
>>6343180
I was thinking more of a hot rod. Goldenrod base, some exquisite flames, scarlet interior.
>>
>>6343216
there are several companies selling good diecast models.

Some are really cheap and look as you would expect, but some are pretty good (and pretty expensive), but in my opinion they will never reach a well built and painted/weathered model. (Nobody can stop you from re-painting a diecast plane though).

For example this brand here: http://www.easymodel.net

But there are plenty of others too.
>>
>>6343231
Thanks Anon.
>>
>>6343104
>weathering like broken off wings
>weathering like broken off wings
>weathering like broken off wings

that's a gem.

>>6343104
>including homemade patches
if you think that's true then you shouldn't have a problem finding reference images
>>
>>6343164
>>6343180
>>6343218

that sounds like an awful fate for such a nice model kit.
>>
>>6343164
You can use spray bombs, just make sure you use a simple paint process for cars.

First the mist coat to give the surface some ''teeth''. Then a medium coat to cover any irregularities, and then a wet coat which is the heaviest of the 3.

Also, I would advise that you get some micro mesh pads with a super fine grit to get rid of any imperfections, and some tamiya polishing compound to polish the paint and sealant coat.
>>
>>6342518
Depending on the region and story you want to give it, m8. If it was flying in an arid region I would get dust out for the wheels and underside.

You could also add some twigs stuck to the wheels as I know some of these fly pretty damn low.
>>
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After my academy Tiger was a total fiasco because of the amount of seams and fit issues, I decided to give this one a go as I found it for 20 bucks. I am still trying to make my first armored vehicle. Will I enjoy this more than the Academy Tiger?
>>
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>>6342518
Mud.
>>
>>6343411
Dragon overall is really good, but has too many useless pieces sometimes. Check scalemates entry of your kit and see if there are reviews that point out errors or tips.
About enjoying it only you can really say it tho, but it's probably better than the tiger. Also for sherman's the best brand is tasca/asuka in case you want to another later when you know more shit.
>>
>>6343327
It's already bare yellow plastic, and I wouldn't even be chopping this up or putting some ridiculous engine on it like an actual hot rodder would have in the 1950s or 60s, if they got their hands on it.
>>
>>6343216
Etsy? You can probably commission someone on reddit or fb
>>
>>6343327
>amt kit
>nice
Hahahaha
>>
>>6343325
Everyones defintion of weathering a little bit different. Regrdless, bush planes are often pieces of shit from the 70s and earlier that are in dire need of repair

Source: am pilot
>>
>>6343543
google images disagrees.
>>
>>6343576
i believe if you google "classic car" you'll only see fully restored beauts for the first bunch of scrolls, even though the ones rusting out in a junkyard hugely outnumber the ones running and on the road. It's the same situation with bush planes.
>>
>>6342854
>>6343063
1/72 is smaller than a hotwheeels car which is 1/64
>>
well I got my DRV after five weeks, here she is
http://imgur.com/gallery/2M77R
>>
>>6343767
Pretty cool. Ive got a few expensive kits in the mail right now and the waiting is killing me
>>
>>6343767
I saw this kit for sale in Japan and thought about you, thinking "wow I could get it before that guy"
>>
>>6342801
Yes, that was it, I asked you for advice few months ago and used your imgur build log for ideas. Again, thanks anon, it was a lot of help.

>>6343076
I don't know how to reply to this. Are you the fucking tank fairy?
>>
>>6343848
yeah, i'm wondering how many of y'all have bought and finished kits during my wait, but hey, I guess I shouldn't complain considering how I only spent $36 with free shipping to the states
>>
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Ooh hey! this thread reminds me. I've been planning to start a project on a Heng Long RC tank, but I wanted to see all my options. The issue is there's no list of all produced Heng Long tank models. Anybody here familiar with the Heng Long tank line or know all their options for what they make?
>>
>>6343216
Where abouts do you live?
>>
>>6343875
Where did you get it from? eBay or an online store?
>>
>>6343880
They don't appear to have a home page. The one lead I had led to a site with Chinese text saying that it was suspended. Still, there appears to be plenty of places you can buy from. Heng Long seems to also be listed as Hang Lung in some places.

While looking around I found this site, which you might find helpful. Not sure.
http://rctanks.net/
>>
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Trumpeter Hotchkiss H35/38

The custom decal holds together pretty well. I think it might be that sheets designed for laser tends to be a little thicker in material. At any rate, this stuff is pretty good compared to the inkjet sheets I have.

Since it's transparent (they also come in white), I laid out some paint for it before applying the decal of the ermine.
The paint was still a little wet when I took that last picture and I didn't quite finish the job since I had to run off to work. It was pretty much wet-on-wet acrylic after about 3 or 4 layers of very thin acrylic to get everything in place and block out the colors.
>>
>>6343880
a relatives got one of those tigers he wants me to repaint
>>
>>6344231
Ebay
>>
>>6344283
Pretty cool
>>
>>6343875
I'm so slow, I can't even finish the Dragon Z31 I started in like January. In my defense, I've been working 6 to 7 days a week since then, and it's hard to stay motivated all the time. Z31 needs so little extra work, mostly just paint, but I keep getting freaked out and thinking I can't do it. My airbrusb isn't good enough, what if it isn't perfect, wah wah wah, first ship model ever, I really just need to do it. I'm afraid I'll do the same with my Nagato model, too.
>>
>>6344095
Tennessee
>>
>>6343536
Hadn't thought of Etsy. Thanks!
>>
>>6343411
Is it just me, or does that sherman look WAY off in that picture? Looks like one of those "cute" shermans that Meng makes.
>>
>>6344283
How did you remove the excess white paint?
>>
>>6344903
Try ebay too. Lots of modellers sell their kits on there, but be warned, good ones are extremely pricey, hundreds to thousands of dollars for extremely well made / weathered aircraft.
>>
>>6344949
As mentioned, it was painted over. I'm working mostly with thinned layers of paint, so loss of surface texture isn't a huge concern.

I added texture to the base using pastel chalks but the material turned out to be too flaky, so in the future I'll have to find a different additive. As a proof of concept, the pastel worked out pretty well though.

>>6344953
Do those things actually sell well?
>>
>>6345020
Kind of. Depends if the model is good, if it won awards, and how accessible the subject is
>>
>>6343216
Find you nearest scale modeling club on FB and ask. Getting a kit commissioned is basically the wet dream for most people.
>>
Do you guys wash your photoetch before painting?
>>
>>6344283
That's a really neat job of cover up and decaling
>>6345155
I wash the whole thing so if there's PE it will get washed. But I'm extremely careful in the PE areas as more than once they fell off while moving it around the water.
So if you don't want to deal with troubles like that, finish as most as you can, wash it and then attach the PE with gloves or clean hands
>>
>>6345155
I use Alclad primer so I don't wash my kits
>>
>>6345155
>>6345218
I have never washed my kits, is it that important?
>>
>>6345155
>>6345218
>>6345228
>>6345268
Even tamiya primer has trouble sticking to my etch. Ill try washing next time, maybe theres some sort of release agent on it
>>
>>6345283
What kind of photo etching are we talking about? Never had any problem with minor detail parts, I do use hardware-store primer tho
>>
>>6345268

Not for super recent molds. Some of them have a release agent which is not rinsed and some warm water with a bit of dishwashing soap do the trick.
>>
Anyone have experience hanging kits from the ceiling?
>>
>>6345268
I do it for all my models to clean up fingerprints (even if they are not visible I feel that they are there), sanding dust, small specks of dust if it's been sitting at the table for too long. You know, things that might no cause great problems but I don't loose anything washing it.
>>
>>6345283
Photo etch shouldn't have releasing agent on them but they probably do wash them out with a base chemical or other neutralizing/cleaning agent since they're etched with acid. There's also a coating or adhesive on the surface used to cover/screen out sections to control the exposure too. That stuff is removed after the process is done.

Alternatively, they might be using a laser cutter, which is easier to deal with but the start up cost is higher.
>>
Does anyone have a technique for adding dust to a windscreen (windshield for you americans) in such a way as to suggest use of the wipers, besides masking?
>>
>>6346178
brush an adhesive on in the same way wipers move?
>>
>>6346178
>besides masking
lol? your only option then is god tier brush control and painting it carefully yourself m8.
You can use liquid masking if using regular tape is difficult if you didn't thought about it.
>>
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>>6341696
>>6341701
>>6341710
>tfw I sold 14 KD minis to one buyer for €1000
I could probably have gotten more if I spread out the sales, but it was one buyer getting it all in one batch so.

On another note, I should really start to build my Leviathans one day.
>>
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>>6346250
>better pic
Also plastic.
>>
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Making some progress on Nagato, the supports on the mast don't match up perfectly, the mast is for the Fujimi kit, not the Aoshima one I have. I think it looks good enough, I'm just having fun witb aftermarket experiences for now.
>>
>>6346178
I saw a way to do it but I cant remember. I think it involved masking though
>>
>>6346258
I have a kit of theirs with their version of Big Dog. Kind of neat. I don't know if I'll ever get to building it myself any time soon.
>>
>>6338438
FEED ME CHECHENS
>>
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Hey /toy/ /tg/ told me to come here, I want to buy pic related and I'm thinking of buying it off amazing for 40€, I'm gonna need black primer and some soviet green.
My /tg/ posts
>>53460724
>>53460120

Any recomendations, where to buy if you're in europe?
Kit is a trumpeter Ural 4320 "УPAЛ 4320"
>>
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I've reached my stopping point for the day, I believe. I think it looks pretty nice, hasn't been very hard, either. Well made, but the instructions could be a bit better.
>>
>>6346510
Wrong crossboard referencing brah
How familiar you're with scale models or miniatures?
>>
>>6346510
>>>/tg/53460724
>>>/tg/53460120
>>
>>6346562
I painted a bunch of 40k minis but that was years a go. Here's what I have left related to this build

>I have some black shade, agrax earthsade and mournfang brown left over from my 40k painting days.
>I guess I can find some black primer and the green primer you're talking about.
>I was thinking about doing something like this, with some muddy/sandy weathering on the underbody
>>
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>>6346562
>>6346569
Here's the last minis I painted before I stopped.
>>
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Pretty happy with how I managed to turn the flat surface to something that more or less looks like a glass, thoughts?
(it's barely visible due my shit tier photoskills but there's some fading to grey in the middle to simulate a bit of transparency)
>>6346569
>>6346573
Well, I highly suggest to watch some youtube channels about modeling and stuff like that so you get a grip of what to do as miniature painting is all fine and dandy but only when you need to paint details. I don't specially like or find useful anyone except plasmo and some other dude I don't remember the name but sounded brit as fuck so maybe others can recommend useful channels, also I prefer watching masterclass from meetups and learn about a technique and derivatives from someone who really knows his shit and doesn't just copy the masters to get some pennies on the channel so search for mig jimenez and adam wilder and look if there's still some of the good vids up.

A whole vehicle or plane carries another set of knowledge and skill, don't worry as you will learn and if you have some modeling background things will be quicker.
>>
>>6343164
>>6343218
>>6343463
It finally arrived in the mail and holy shit, this is a big box. And it's fulla stuff, too. The original owner seems to have put a bit of the engine and chassis together, and hopefully he did it right because this glue looks pretty solid.

On the instructions is a note in pen: "Started 1/9/81". When I complete it, I'm going to have to put the finishing note next to it.
>>
>>6346569
>>6346569
>>6346573

I don't want to be that guy, but why don't you start with something cheaper/smaller?
Those space marines aren't terrible, but they aren't great either.
But i don't know about your disposable income, so ignore that post if you are a richfag.

I found your Trumpeter truck cheapest from modelhobbies.co.uk, around 38€, as well as from https://www.rlc-modellbau.de for a similar price.

Revell also does an Ural 4320, which can be found a little bit cheaper. There are 2 of them as auctions on ebay for less than 10€. Both end tomorrow.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Ural-4320-von-Revell-im-Masstab-1-35-/401329816342?hash=item5d711f0316:g:JbcAAOSwi7RZHcqQ

and

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Ural-4320-Lkw-REVELL-/401331619908?hash=item5d713a8844:g:ywMAAOSwtGlZIbeg
But to come back to my first point: Why not start with a cheap 1/72 kit?
For example: http://www.ebay.de/itm/ICM-1-72-URAL-4320-Armee-Lkw-72611-/332205162339?hash=item4d58f87f63:g:20QAAOSwzgBYzm3d
>>
>>6346569
>black primer and the green primer

you need to look up pre shading, basically you put normal lightgrey primer down then use black to darken certain areas, then spray your green lightly over it.


actually I just realized, do you have an airbrush?
>>
>>6346607
fair point, when I was doing research I only found 1/35 kits and the trumpeter kit was the one I liked best and I just sort of stuck with that.

>>6346608
no airbrush, but from my 40k days I just primed everything in black and built up the colours from there, so I was thinking of leaving the chassis black and painting the bodywork green and leaving it at that.
A few months a go I was thinking of doing some tamiya rally cars but life got in the way, long term would it be better to go with the grey primer + painting over or going with my original plan of black primer.
>>
/smg/, recommend me good brands for cars.

I mostly built tanks but i really want to try out one or two car kits, but there are brands out there i never even heard of.

I probably should just get something from Tamiya, but maybe there are hidden gems out there.. so any advise is welcome.

Also, what scale is nicer to build? 1:43? 1:24?
>>
>>6346611
you can pre shade in reverse starting with black then adding white, but since youre going to be brush painting you would probably lose the effect.

at least look up colour modulation, you could do that with a brush. youre just breaking up the solid green to add more variance.

you've obviously got quite a bit to learn so just read everything for now.
>>
>>6346611
>long term would it be better to go with the grey primer + painting over or going with my original plan of black primer.

Some really like pre-shading. I can't get that shit to work, so I post-shade instead. Ie primer normally, put down an even, opaque coat of paint, and then spray a lighter/darker hue wherever suitable.

Of course, nice as this shit is, it's hardly a must for your first few kits. Get comfortable walking before you try running and all that.

>>6346615
1/24 seems to be the main car scale. 1/43 sounds like box scale or one of Airfix old mindfarts.
>>
>>6346617
I think that's too complex, I'd rather go with solid colours and smaller budget mini and work my way up.
What's a good site for picking up some soviet green spray paint?
>>
>>6346635

With pre shading I feel like it entirely depends on how good the base coat is at covering the shading. If it eats it up right away might as well go for post shading.
>>
>>6346643
If by "soviet green" you mean zashchitniy zeleno (russian post-war green) or more recently the NC1200 (post 2005) in spray can you're shit out of luck and without an airbrush even more as I don't recommend to anyone to brush the zashchitniy zeleno as its a satin color and really weird to get right without an airbrush really
>t. a btr-80 and a T-90 painted recently with that color
I guess some tamiya spray can green would do the trick, maybe TS28 comes close or their TS2 but check it yourself better:
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/spray.htm or google it to see how it looks in images.
Also, as I said before, check youtube vids so terms that people are throwing around don't sound or seem intimidating. Old Tamiya kits (specially their pzII which I always recommend or the walker bulldog) are perfect to start as they are cheap and good for that purpose rather than starting with the truck.

>Recomending preshading/postshading and color modulation to a noob
Sasuga minna

If for some reason for starters you want to get some tone richness on a mono-color patter better use oil dot rendering desu
>>
>>6346643


https://www.vliegeruit.com/Flames-of-War-Tankovy-Green-CWP240-War-Paint-Spray-Cans
>>
>>6346683
>https://www.vliegeruit.com/Flames-of-War-Tankovy-Green-CWP240-War-Paint-Spray-Cans

so it's a base coat, alright I guess I'll get the soviet green and a black primer from that website and kind a kit on ebay, thanks for the help.
>>
>>6346683
>that green color
Eww
>>
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Just started, never made models before.
My 1st one.
>>
>>6346715
Its still missing a few parts.

But T-34s are always nice to look at
>>
>>6346718
What's missing?
I'll try my best to find aftermarket parts.
>>
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>>6346724
>>6346724
I marked the spots.

In short, a telescope "tube" at the turret, 2 hooks at the front and a light at the side of the hull are missing
>>
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>>6346715
Something's missing.
>>
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>>6346727
For comparison
>>
>>6346729
>>6346727
>>6346731

Oh shoot, I didn't notice that!
Thanks, lads.
>>
>>6346744
Well, if the gaping holes weren't enough of a clue, didn't the kit come with instructions?
>>
>>6346751
Nope.
>>
>>6346751
To add on to last post, >>6346755
Basically, I found an old set of molded pieces, without a box or instructions, and some decals, then found a T 34 blueprint, and built it that way.
>>
>>6346767
>
That was a rather exotic way to start a build. Also how do you find decals and sprues without a box? Like how everything remains together without shit getting lost
>>
>>6346781
(Am Rusfag).
Few weeks ago decided to visit family at the dacha, (summer-home type cabin.)
And I dug around, and in the attic found an old kit, everything was neatly stacked, BUT the box and instructions were gone.

Grandfather used to own it, but he died years ago.
Heard he was into models, so I'm pretty sure it's his.
Brought it back to my apartment, and worked there.

It was still attached in sheets, but I think some parts broke off.
>>
>>6344895
>Tennessee
Alright can't help you
>>
>>6346801
If you don't have the parts any longer, you can use plastic card to make your own parts instead of buying expensive aftermarket stuff.
>>
>>6344895
>>6343216

Maybe you can find someone at this IPMS event to commission some stuff:

http://calendar.ipmsusa3.org/event/ipms-middle-tennessee-model-con
>>
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>>6346615
1/24 and up is all I've heard of. Tamiya is your best bet, then it goes down to revell, and stay away from fucking AMT dear God i still have nightmares. However, if you're down for some hardcore shit, I'd recommend Model factory Hiro. MFH kits have about 300 parts in them, maybe more, and are cast mostly in metal. Not mine, but a pic I pulled from Google to show you some MFH quality.
Price ranges:
Revell/AMT $25-30
Tamiya $30-40
MFH $150-$200
>>
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Hello everyone, after a few years I finally have time and a place to build, and started building my first model.

I bought a lot of this idolmaster line one sale and have to ask, will all of them be this much of a pain in the ass to build? I have to glue literally everything. Nothing seems to just snap together.

This brings me to my other question: what happens if I spill a drop of cement where I don't want it, distorting the plastic? Do I need to sand it off, can I paint over it and have it disappear?

Finally, for the decals, I read about using a topcoat to seal them in, but do I need another topcoat before I place the decal?

Thanks in advance.
>>
>>6347568
>I have to glue literally everything.

Yes, that's how it goes. Some snap-fit kids do exist, but they tend to be stuff aimed at kids, so expect a minimum of parts, a severe lack of details, and in many cases not many fucks given overall. Exceptions probably exist, but most of them are just shit plain and simple.

>what happens if I spill a drop of cement where I don't want it, distorting the plastic? Do I need to sand it off, can I paint over it and have it disappear?

Depends on how much of what kind of glue got where and how long it got to sit there. If it's out of sight you may not need to do anything. In other cases it'll leave a large blemish demanding filler, sanding, and then re-creating the nearby details you just sanded off.

>but do I need another topcoat before I place the decal?

Decals go bets on a high gloss surface. The furtehr you are from that the better an idea it becomes to slap on some gloss varnish before you go for the decal.
>>
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>>6347568
>i have to glue everything together
>nothing seems to snap together


Jesus fucking christ
>>
>>6347651
Those are so oddly proportioned. Are these supposed to be 1/100 scale or are these actually 1/72 dwarfs?
>>
>>6347667
They're flames of war models so go ask them
>>
>>6347568
>>6347594
I've heard there are some respectably detailed snap fits out. I'll have to get back to you on the manufacturer and model though. Someone at one of the nerd shops I visit had mentioned it.

They might work well for beginners looking for more detail but not necessarily be ready for a full glue together.
>>
>>6347568
Well if you asked those questions let me say something first.

>Buy something else, whatever I don't care as long it's cheap and "disposable" if you want don't want to ruin those kits.

If you can buy a ton of em without getting scalped or having to mover hell and earth to find them then go ahead.
And again check some basic youtube vids as nowadays its easy to learn shit without having to pay or much hassle from your part really.

Use Tamiya (or whatever other brand you want) super/extra thin glue as it's rather hard to fuck it up with those. CA (superglue) is not recommended unless you're working with some material that is not the plastic.

As a general rule only some bandai kits and gundam stuff are snapfit, the rest comes in pieces that need to be glued, sanded, puttied, etc so its more work in the building stage.
>>
>>6347568
Not gonna try and put you down, man, but you are gonna have a hard time in this hobby if this is the way you look at building a kit.

While a terribly engineered kit is a fucking hassle (I built a 1/72 scale Zhalo, and it sucked), better kits are pretty fun, and the whole process of seeing it take shape gives a sense of accomplishment. Maybe follow the dude above me's advice and get some snapfit kits, but if that's the goal, gunpla may be more your speed.
>>
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I can't wait till the Oblivion Mosquito is in glorious plastic and in my hands in two-three years time.
>>
>>6347667
Yeah, a lot of 1/100 scale figures (for wargaming) tend to be weirdly proportioned, unfortunately. It would be great if we see some masters cranked out from 3D with better proportions.

The plastics from Plastic Soldier Company have better proportions and tend to be priced decently.
>>
>>6347683
Good shout, to be truthful they aren't the best moulded kits, but they cheap and cheerful which is good if your building an army.
>>
>>6347683
>3 box 28 mm scale Tiger tanks for £62
Any idea if the kits are good/decent? It's a very attractive price!
>>
>>6347676
>They might work well for beginners looking for more detail but not necessarily be ready for a full glue together.

If they're not ready yet for gluing together a normal plastic kit then they should probably come back again when their age is in the double digits.

>>6347682
Rosine grew up.
>>
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>>6347698
>Rosine
Poor kids...
>>
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>>6347689
> they aren't the best moulded kits
This is true but I do agree they're a good compromise between detail and pricing.
They also aren't the most accurate with their vehicles either but given that they're plastic molded, they're less lumpy and give a good consistent look. I'm actually modifying a Firefly on the side.


>>6347690
I wasn't aware that PSC had a 28mm line but after some googling, it looks like they're importing (or have some other business arrangement with) Rubicon Models. I don't know about the quality or accuracy of the kits but they look like they paint up pretty nice.
>See pic


-----------------------

While we're on the subject of cheap 1/100 (20mm) scale vehicles, Zvezda has a few offerings as well. The details might be just slightly lesser than Plastic Solider but not by much. I have a few of their sdkfz 222 and they're missing some mesh screening on two facings, IIRC. The turret is also filled in (not that I expected them to have it opened all the way with an interior.)
>>6347698
>If they're not ready yet for gluing together a normal plastic kit then they should probably come back again when their age is in the double digits.

I'm not going to judge. Some people have higher risk aversion than others and if they need something easier or maybe want to focus on other aspects of scale modeling, so be it
>>
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I've spent the past few days reading FAQs and modelling basics documents. Can anyone recommend a YT or other video that shows the building process in detail from start to finish? In particular a 'beginners' model if possible? I can find lots of short videos showing 4 days of work in 15 minutes, but would like something longer and more comprehensive with explanations of the process. Thanks!
>>
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>>6347737

Their page:
http://www.rubiconmodels.com/products.php?i=10

>What distinguishes us from other companies in this field is not only fine detail and accuracy but also all of our kits will be multi-variant. Each kit you buy might have several choices of main gun, two choices of road wheels, three choices of gun turret, detachable protective armour or even two choices of hull.

I might pick one up at some point myself to check it out.
>>
>>6347741
https://www.youtube.com/user/idaemon/videos
>>
>>6347751
>https://www.youtube.com/user/idaemon/videos
Yeah, I binged several PLASMO vids the other day. The maker behind the channel is exceptionally skilled. Unfortunately there is no explanation of the process - which I understand takes 4 days, but is compressed into 20 minute videos.
>>
>>6347756
On second review there are some explanation videos. I'll give those a watch.

Anyone know if 'how to' videos for beginners?
>>
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Done painting, time to apply decals and the satin varnish sealing.
>>6347682
>Those monsters, minis and game I will never have (until 2020 if the fucker does an non kickstarter version)
>>6347756
>>6347758
>yare yare daze
I will spoon feed you as you seem a bit lost.
Apart the plasmo guy and the brit I can't find again for my life:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChnAgeghaNKLdftbfJY8zNA/videos
This guy is ok for beginners and seeing new products, you will see most of the steps and has quite variety to watch.

Onto the painting and weathering side:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIi75MLdxLM
Excellent vid of a collab between mig and vallejo, only uses vallejo (acrylics, have their ups and downs in weathering that would be a pita to list) products but you will learn quite a bit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Wu1jfiiQbA
In russian, again some mig vid, where you can see some basic stuff. Oils included.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prfzaX6MwBc
"weathering in 1hour" vid that will give you an accelerated and general course or weathering.

From here I believe you can make it alone
>>
>>6347782
Thanks! Much appreciated.
>>
>>6347690
>>6347737
>>6347747

About Rubicon (and Italeri/Warlord with their 1/56 kits):
Depending on your "autism" about creating a realistic tank they might disappoint you.
If all you care for is having a tank that looks like a Tiger, a Panther or a T-34, then these kits are perfectly fine. They fit together nicely, quickly and their detail isn't bad at all.

Now if you want to recreate a Panzer of Division XY in Russia in June 43 with open hatches and some other minor things then these kits are not for you.
Well, it probably could be done with these kits too, but it requires a ton of extra work and buying a "real" kit might be faster (and even cheaper if you go 1/72 or 1/48).
They are intended to be quick and simple builds for wargamers who usually don't want to be bothered with overly complex tank kits.
>>
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>>6347782
>tfw I went in with $560 the first KS and $777 during the second
I... I'm not sure what to feel exactly. But jesus nigger-christ, the models can't come fast enough.
>>6347788
That is very useful information, thank you. Sounds like the kit would suit me just fine.
>>
>>6347594
>>6347665
>>6347676
>>6347678
>>6347680
So, perhaps I should have clarified a bit more. It's not really the end of the world that I have to glue things together, it's just not what I was expecting. The instructions only comment on about 4 places where it says to cement the pieces together, so when I look at all these other parts and see there is no way for anything to hold together, that's what annoyed me. To provide a better example, the kit has pieces where there is a single hole for two pegs to fit into (one on each side) since the hole is not long enough to secure two pegs, each one has half a notch taken out of it to allow the pegs to overlap. This would be a great idea if the "half pegs" were cast right and would actually fit.

Basically, I guess I was just complaining that even the parts that appear as if they would be either snap or friction fit, wound up requiring heavy modification just to assemble.
>>6347594
>Depends on how much of what kind of glue got where and how long it got to sit there.
I just have some regular testors plastic cement, the reason I asked is I had some excess spill over on one of the parts I glued together, and tried to rub it off immediately, however, the cement did its job and was already melting the plastic so it just resulted in a "smeared" plastic look after it dried. Would I have been better off just letting the affected area dry and then sanding it down with something high grit?
>>
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My VK4502 is now built and into painting. Airbrushed with Vallejo Middlestone. I sprayed black into the recesses first but the effect on the yellow overcoat was minimal, still learning with airbrush. Then I put the tracks on. I don't care much for separate link, but these went on ok and took an hour or so, gaps won't be so apparent with some weathering.
>>
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I didn't finish the decaling, maybe tonight. Got caught repainting some stuff and looking KD stuff.
Maybe masking the cannon and airbrushing the identification would been better and faster
>>6347853
Nice, you're going to paint the commander too? I was planning to do the two guys that come with the tiran but for lack of time I discarded the idea. Now that the deadline is extended I'm planning to do them if I can.
Also did you decide on the scheme?
>>
>>6348034
No lie that looks real good m8
>>
>>6348046
Thanks, but now I see a spot that I painted wrong. The fucking edge of the ir lamp is uneven in te lower part reeeeeee
Well, fuck it I will give it a wash and hope for the best
>>
>>6347680
>1/72 Zhalo
Building the same kit right now, can't believe I fell for the ACE meme. Their T-55 was also awful.

>>6347568
The decals on the idolmaster kits are probably the most difficult to properly setup, just due to the size of them, also the kit itself are more expensive that grabbing a regular plane kit. I would sincerely recommend you trying a different kit first.

>>6347837
These kits are for static display, other than the turrets on tanks you have to glue EVERYTHING together.
>>
>>6347741
The easiest way to learn is building a kit.
>>
>>6347853
I can definitely see the black under the yellow. It might be too stark honestly
>>
>>6348179
Dude yeah, I love the Zhalo as a vehicle, it looks super cool. But the kit is made of such weak plastic, there was damn near no way to get half the pieces off the sprue without breaking them, and there was SO MUCH FLASH, I couldn't tell where the fucking flash ended and the part began.

Last time I try that shit, but I'm tempted to try a Modelcollect T64, those look a lot better, and I've been wondering about quality.

Also, since I'm Z31 guy, I wanted to say, I actually painted the bottom of the hull red. It has made me realize that I either need a better airbush, better compressor, or both, not sure, but I'm gonna have to hit it again and test a few things beforehand.

I also need to engineer a way to hold the motherfucker, I don't have ANYTHING to keep it stabilized to paint the bottom of the damn thing.
>>
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>>6348652
>Modelcollect T64
The T-64 is the best kit I've built from them.
The T-72 kits are a bit worse, but are the best 72nd T-72s around.
Their T-90s are outclassed by Revell and Zvezda.

The T-64 kit itself is alright, there are no moulding defects or flash, but unlike their other kits, it only comes with DS tracks and no link and length option.
>>
>>6348652
>I don't have ANYTHING to keep it stabilized to paint the bottom of the damn thing.

Insert a rod through the opening for the turret and glue to the bottom of the hull?
>>
>>6348994
1/700 Dragon Z31, there are no holes for the teeny tiny turrets. There's only small recesses for them. That's part of the difficulty.
>>
>>6348839
Meant to respond to this, too, but the T64AV is the kit I wanted. I like that it has all the ERA, and the photoetch looks good. Good to know their T64s are well done though, thanks for the information.
>>
>>6349018
The newer kits have PE out the wazoo, the side ERA screens on the AV are exclusively held by 7 PE hooks that are supposed to be bent in 6 places.
They also come with a metal barrel as well.
Forgot to add the weird gap in the front that is left when you attach the side skirts on all their kits. It is an eyesore.
>>
>>6349010
Ah, that explains it. I was wondering why anyone would paint the bottom of a Zhalo red.
>>
What's a nice cheap mig-21 kit I can get?
>>
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Masking was a pain and a half. Time to start rebuilding what was ripped apart in the process, and repainting what wasn't covered.
>>
>>6349155
are those funnels solid?!
>>
>>6349173
Yup
>>
>>6349189
you should drill them out with micro drill bit.
>>
>>6349199
Hm, probably. Damn thing ain't terribly round though. Better to just drill straight down and go for depth, or go in perpendicular to the slanted "cut" at the top?
>>
>>6349216
I assume theyre not actually actually solid, youre just drilling through the cap.

personally id get the smallest bit I have.
drill a line of holes all the way around the outside edge. then get a blade and cut the center out, then sand the edges with a file.
>>
>>6349259
>I assume theyre not actually actually solid, youre just drilling through the cap.

They are single piece, and have no opening at the bottom, so that'd be quite the feat of mold engineering.
>>
>>6349261
oh is the whole ship solid.
in that case id cut the tops off underneath the lip, drill the main body of the funnel out, then carve the top of the funnel out separately, and then glue it back on.

depends how much effort you can be arsed putting in. wouldn't blame you for not bothering
>>
>>6349272
Most of it ain't, the funnels are. And yeah, chopping off the funnel caps and hollowing them out sounds like a bit more than this kit deserves.
>>
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>>6348034
Let's say expections and reality don't always meet up. I've been over this several times patching up mistakes, then patching up more mistakes, I'm sticking with it as it is now, until I get more experiences with the airbrush. Masking and spraying in fine with, trying to draw lines freehand, not so. Also, it's a cheap airbrush so I'm likely making work for myself not having the best tools.
>>
>>6346615
yeh, car guy here, from earlier in the thread, i reccomend this:

1/24 (1/25) Revell - American cars, most kits have solid molded doors to the body but always have an openable hood and fully molded engine

1/24 Aioshima - Japanese and European cars, very well designed kits, but most are made with no open-able doors, hoots etc, so that means unless otherwise on the box there wont be a full engine molded, of the ones Ive done they've had working steering and proper moving wheels, some even have working suspensions

1/24 Tamiya - mostly Japanese cars, great kits same as Aioshima

as others have stated, stay well away from AMT and Monogram
>>
I'm getting a bunch of paints from this store but I don't know anything about decalfix or putting on decals, what do you guys recommend I get from this store?
For clarity's sake the first 3 are sold out, the rest are in stock.

https://www.hobbysector.com/pt/211-diluentes-vernizes-e-outros
>>
>>6350439
The Microsol stuff is excellent. I've been using it for years and can't fault it.
>>
>>6350369
its very flat. if you did pre shade it hasn't shown through.
are you going to do any modulation?
and the tracks being just one colour, its not like there aren't a million tutorials out there for painting tracks.
is this your first model or something??
>>
>>6350446
that's great but which products specifically should I buy, I know fuck all about decal work.
>>
>>6350439
mr hobby is superior to micro sol or any of the others.

mr mark softener and setter.
>>
>>6350369
I'd say your lines are just fine. Seems to be some areas the paint seems to be layed on too thick. Add some post shading and this should be a decent base coat

>>6350447
Pretty sure this is just a wip. The tracks are fine at this stage
>>
>>6350461
how is he going to add internal wear to the tracks if they are glued in place?
>>
>>6350467
I didnt know the tracks were glued on. Are they?
>>
>>6350548
well I just assumed with them following the curvature of the top of the wheels.
>>
They're glued around the ends, the rest are tacked on. I'm never sure how to approach separate link track. Painting before hand seems easier but it makes assembly more difficult.

It probably looks flat overall because I've not done any washes or weathering yet. I'm hoping that's straightforward, panel lines on this kit are well defined.
>>
Any recommendations for a Britbong as where to buy good quality kits online?

I usually buy them from Wonderland Models but lately they leave a lot to be desired kit wise, they're great for paints and gear but not many kits that I'm personally interested in ATM.
>>
>>6350924
well that's a stupid question. just type the kit into google. all the places that stock it will come up.
any kit you want or imagine that is available.
>>
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Surprise bdaygift from gf. Pretty happy
>>
>>6351081
>gf buys something for your hobby
That's a keeper.
>>
>>6344259
Thanks man! Maybe someone there will know about what they got
>>
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>>6351081
>>
>>6351081
Are you the dude who did the Remora? That build was amazing, I imagine this one will be too, if that's the case.

Also, your girlfriend must be awesome to get you something like that, and I congratulate you for doing so well.
>>
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>>6348652
Modelcollect is probably the best quality for your buck hands down. I have built both their T-64BV and their T-80U and they were both top notch. Maybe not as easy to build as Revell's but the bonus PE, and in some cases metal barrels and options on tracks totally make up for it
Do keep in mind that the PE on the T-64's ERA is a pain to set up tho.

>>6348839
Have you tried their Armata kit? Feeling tempted on building the meme.
>>
>>6351815
The bar armour frightens me, I am afraid I will leave it unfinished like a trumpeter T-90 I had started years ago.
How is the T-80U? When modelcollect first appeared, this was the only kit I was looking forward to.
>>
>>6351739
Thanks man! I promise I dont actually work for Industria Mechanika
>>
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>>6351979
not that guy but the modelcollect T-64 suspension is a bit finicky as well (like the real tank)

as for T-80U, well it is good, but for some reason it's missing the last grab handle on the sideskirts (see pic) which i can't unsee

their T-80B/BV is better, but trumpeter is releasing a 1/72 T-80B, T-80BV and T-62s later this year so i've stopped all T-80 projects until then
>>
>>6351815
>>6352013

You guys are just full of knowledge on this, and I appreciate it. The grab handle wouldn't bug me much, personally, but I could see how that would be annoying. I've got other things to work on and finish before I pick up ANY MORE KITS, as I'm trying NOT to backlog this hobby so badly I wind up in a hole, but when I decide to try a few tanks, I'll probably pick up a couple of their kits. They're so well priced for the quality I see in pictures, it just seems like a good starting point.

I'm also used to finicky PE, I've been building ship models and adding PE to those. It's been interesting.
>>
>>6350924
modelhobbies.co.uk is where i buy if i buy from GB.
>>
What do you guys think of the revell mig-21 kit, I found one for 17€ and im thinking of picking it up.
>>
>>6352081
1/72? Reviews seem positive enough, and it's a reasonably modern kit, so I'm guessing decent enough.

1/48 and 1/32 seem to be mostly of archaeological interest.
>>
>>6352081
1:72?
I had one of those when I was 12. The mould is extremely old and it shows. Thick parts but good surface details.
>>
>>6352135
It's the only kit I can find that I dont have to order from a foreign country.
>>
>>6352154
What is your skill level?
>>
>>6352154
see >>6346573
I'm familiar with painting small kits, but I haven't practiced in a while, still waiting for paints and primers to come in the mail.
>>
>>6352166
woops pinged the wrong post see >>6352194
>>
>>6352194
Anon where're you from? If you're in europe I can link a ton of shops (also use ebay if you don't mind waiting forever)
>>
>>6352205
Portugal, I'm pretty limited in choice.
>>
New thread when you're ready.

>>6352214
>>6352214
>>6352214
>>
>>6352216
>Portugal
You're lucky amigo mio
TIER 1:
>http://www.migjimenez.com/es/content/11-promociones-especiales
The mig store has free shipping over 25€ to Spain and Portugal, they have kits but unless it's a preorder or has some discount for some reason they are regular price expensive tier unlike other eshops that are cheaper than brick and mortar. But with free shipping and combos it's cheaper overall to me and others I suppose.
>http://www.bellesartsferran.com/shop/index.php?cPath=172&language=es
Perfect place to get cheap supplies (cheapest vallejo prices and other stuff), I usually go there to buy paints and supplies as it's a great place. You can order online too with free shipping over 80€. They have more airbrushes than listed too but I guess those are only to sell in store perhaps.
>http://jordirubio.com/es/
My "lhs", really good place but be careful with what they say it's "in stock" as you might have to wait several months. The guy is really nice and any problem can be easily solved (as in if something will take forever you can change it for other thing they have without hassle)
>http://www.goblintrader.es/envio
Cheap tg and fantasy stuff and free shipping over 70€. I'm not sure if they sell outside Spain but they list shipping to the whole peninsula so that means Portugal too but I don't know, maybe an email will clear that.
TIER 2 (places that are okay but the tier 1 beat easily):
>http://ak-interactive.com/v2/
They don't have free shipping but they stock meng and abt502.
>https://www.carminahobbys.com/es/
Ordered from them ages ago.
>http://www.e-minis.net/index.php
fantasy and tg related stuff, prices are okayish but you could fin them cheaper.
>http://www.hobbiesguinea.es/es/
Again, used them ages ago but it was quite good and fast.

I think I listed all the ones I used and know from Spain here.
Running out of words in this post but I can give you non-Spain based ones too.
>>
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>>6351979
The T-80U was a joy to build, although mostly because I am on budget and this was the first time I saw that amount photoetched and a metal barrel.
I can't talk to you about the slat armor, but I can talk to you about something that give me nightmares, those PE headlight covers, holy fuck man. On the other hand you get this little bullet belt that feeds your AA machinegun, so that's pretty neat.
All in all just do it, the kit is challenging but well done, basically the complete opposite to ACE's god forgotten Zhalo. And at that price a great deal.
>>
>>6352081
If you're going for accuracy, I've been told the Zvezda 1/72 MiG-21 is hard to beat.
>>
>>6352013
Do you know if Trumpeter will have a T-64BM Bulat out? I'm tempted to try Modelcollect's since there doesn't appear to be many options.
>>
>>6352013
Different anon here, I have the modelcollect T-90. If I remember I'll post pics as I progress; right now it's had two parts glued together as I'm prioritising my /tg/ historical stuff, of which a T-90 is not.
Comments so far: the presence of a metal bathtub hull surprised me.
>>
>>6352787
>metal bathtub hull
Always wondered if is that a good thing.
Exotic? Yes but sounds like a hard time to glue stuff to it.
>>
>>6352825
Honestly, I think it's a good way of adding extra weight to smaller scale stuff. It's not THAT hard to use a few drops of superglue (CA glue) here and there. Obviously, it'll never be as strong as cement on two plastic parts, though.
>>
>>6352882
Makes sense, I usually add lead weight inside my tanks, but it is always a mess.
>>
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Bought some stuff from taobao. A 1/700 Ting Yuen cruiser and the wood deck. Wood deck took a while to get here and the cruiser was on back order for a month. While the products themselves were cheap, the shipping made the final cost a few dollars more expensive than buying from eBay from a Chinese seller. The whole process also took longer.

Taobao has their own in-house central shipping service, so they pretty much cut out the middleman there but, again, the shipping costs are kind of high and I think maybe it's only worth going through for small lightweight items. I'll try them again for that in the future but you can expect something around 15-20 USD for shipping costs on a model kit as a ballpark figure to throw around for a model kit.

There's a remote possibility you can save 5 bucks or something for a kit if you scour hard enough. Kind of a huge hurdle is the translation from Chinese to whatever your preferred language is (see pic, it's from around the time I was trying to place an order about a month or so ago.)

I'll post pics of the kit and wood deck once the kit itself gets to me.
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