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Gunpla/Plamo General

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Thread replies: 326
Thread images: 88

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For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.

>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"

***READ THE GUIDE***

IRC Channel
>Server
Rizon
>Channel
#gunpla

The guide:
https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1Tr8UyF2Xg5Ojqw0sxcO7oIG7IIsJPes3lMO5pHZKu5o

And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20(Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step).pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com
Some line art: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
http://gundma.imgur.com/


Old thread: >>6272902
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>>6282281
First for buyers remorse
>>
>>6281767
>>6281674
Well how stupid of me, somehow went and forgot to post the link! Not sure how that happened but time to fix that.
gundaniumgateway blogspot se/2016/10/universal-unit-volume-1 html

Edit: ah, that must have been why, 4chan treating it as spam. although not sure why the link was removed instead of getting a error message... maybe I did forget it.
>>
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Did I T H I N my paint properly? Image file size is intentionally large so you can scrutinize my first time at hand painting. This is just a rough work prior to cleaning up the piece so it is rather painted shoddily. The main point of interest is the leg piece at the middle.
>>
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>>6282358
Nothing's wrong with shitty airbrush as long as you realize you get what you pay for.
>>
>>6282416
Probably not. The paint has inconsistent coverage, and looks a bit chalky. Also, invest in some masking tape
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>>6282416
what are you painting with?
also quite obviously not
>>
>>6282416
hand painting, definitely did not thin enough, and you prolly put too much paint down in one layer which led to all that dripping over your boundries.

What paint are you using?
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Alright, one of you must have an uncle that works for Japan, when do I get this? I have a mighty need to add this to my backlog.
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>>6282523
october-november
>>
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Post WIPs.

Also Mr Weathering Color >>> Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color.
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>>6282579
Almost done with the Jesta. Got the decals done. Gonna weather and do some light damage to the shield, shoulders, and legs. Maybe a little bit of damage to the chest. Then top coat.
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>>6282358
What's wrong with it? I was thinking about getting that airbrush.
>>
>>6282536
That's not bad if it's correct. I wonder what the recolor will look like? What other good schemes food they come up with?
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>>6282582
That gun could use some paint to break up the gray.
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>>6282601
I had thought about that. Any suggestions?
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>>6282645
9000 hours in paint
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Silly and childish request, I'd like to build a gundam with:
A: a shit ton of default equipment like cannons, wings, swords and stuff packed everywhere.
or B: super futuristic design with useless armor pieces' fashion (like wings that don't serve any purpose, like pic related).
Do I have a terrible taste? Yes.
Do I like terrible designs? Maybe.
>>
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>>6282711
Build a fag instead.
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>>6282711
A. HGCE Revive Freedom Gundam or HGBF Gundam Leopard Da Vinci

B. HG00 Gundam Zabanya, in fact most of the HG00 fits into that.
>>
>>6282714
This is huge! I love it. Btw FA girls don't come with that ammount of armor. Also kotobukiya is a bit too expensive for my taste
>>
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>>6282709
Cool. I'll give it a shot. Never painted before, so it'll probably be trash. Outside of the gun, is this kit looking alright?
>>
>>6282416
>>6282475
>>6282477
>>6282503
I was using vallejo. It is a little bit funky though, if I go any thinner, a darker blue will form at the edges. The dripping over boundaries is mainly caused by my shoddy control of brush strokes. The white on the fin is fine right? Well, except for the circle which was a rather bad attempt at panel washing.
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>>6282720
Aside from sticker on the shoulder looks decent for an OOB.
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>>6282719
>kotobukiya is a bit too expensive for my taste
Sucks to be you then.
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>>6282724
White looks too thick and has pooled at the bottom. What are you thinning with?
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>>6282730
The numbers? Yeah. I'm not digging them. They look kinda crappy on the shield also. I'm hoping a top coat will help blend the edges.
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>>6282475
>>6282477
>>6282503
I will try to thin it down better tonight again. It is okay to paint over it right? Or do I have to strip the bad paint and start all over again.
>>
>>6282743
I thinned it with water. I usually hang the piece white side downwards when drying, I think that was the cause. This is not the first coat. In this case was the paint to runny?
>>
>>6282758
>>6282766
If you can, try to use Vallejo's own thinner. Your results might be better.
You probably want to strip the white, but you probably don't have to strip the blue. You *might* be able to get away with just wet sanding the white to try and even out the surface.
The paint probably wan't too runny, with was probably laid on too thickly, but I can't be sure.
>>
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So how bad did I fuck up? First attempt at doing any kind of damage to a kit.
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>>6282799
One more.
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>>6282799
>>6282802
I've seen worse. Also, if you want to do bullet holes well, take a look at how people do them on AFVs. Modelers have been doing AFVs for a long time, and there's a lot of stuff you can learn
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>>6282812
Cool. Thanks. I'm gonna take a file to some places later and try to get some scrapes/scratches done, too.

Jungle Jesta
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>>6282757
>top coat will help blend the edges
It won't, there is air under your stickers.
>>
>>6282799
>>6282802
>>6282823
It is extremely difficult if not impossible to have _convincingly-looking_ damage or weathering on an unpainted kit.
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>>6282770
>You *might* be able to get away with just wet sanding the white to try and even out the surface.
Vallejo on a bare surface? the wet sand will just rip it right off.

>>6282758
I just thought of this, how many layers did you put down? and are u going in perpendicular strokes with each layer?
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Anyone know what this yellow shit is? It was on my model out of the box and I cant seem to get it off.

I'm guessing its mold release but I was wondering if anyone knew.
>>
>>6283051
fossilized seed of the previous owner
>>
I've never done anything more than build and pose these. What's a good first step to more advanced modeling?
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>>6283051
is it like a separate layer from the plastic or part of it?
>>
>>6283106
Fitchenfoo has a good beginner's guide from the mid 00s that's still good today.

Read the guide.

Too bad all the old forums are dead. Where the fuck did everybody go after hobbyfanatics and Gundam eclipse ground to a halt? Just here and /m/? Where is everybody.

I also miss church of the machine if that hints at my age
>>
>>6283115
I read the guide, and it seems like the next step would be to order the gundam markers and learn to panel line. I have an SD Gundam Barbatos to practice on. I'd like to learn how to paint, but I'm worried it might be too much to start with, and I don't really have a good workspace for it.

I bought some Pigma Micron pens to try panel lining with, but they don't work very well.
>>
Building my first gunpla now and like it a fair bit, what should I do for my second more serious build? I like the look of pic related, so will probably get it. Any other recommended cheapish builds that are good for beginners?
>>
>>6283120
Just buy some cheap or used kits and experiment, that's the best way to work on your skills, nothing will be perfect your first try
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>>6283120
Step one is to build them better, so make sure you're cleaning your nubs right. After that panel lining and top coats are a must, beyond that you're going into seam welding and painting then beyond.
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>>6283132
Pretty much all the IBO stuff is easy.
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>>6283138
I've never actually sanded, so that's definitely something to try for the next model. I had never heard of the fitchenfoo guide before, but it has a lot of steps that had never even occurred to me, so I'm looking forward to trying them out. Sanding sounds boring, but it'll probably make for a nicer looking final product so I guess it's worth it.
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So I tried to straighten up the slash and added silver to make it look like it burned through to the innards.
>>
A really important part apparently twisted itself out of the runner and fell into another dimension, I looked all around the ground and couldn't find shit.
1: How do I avoid losing shit from dropping them, because I drop small piece a lot

2: Is there a way for me to buy specific parts of a kit, or am I fucked?
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>>6283152
I think I'm done. I'm going to quit before it gets any worse.
Any suggestions for what could've been done better or something to add before I move on to a top coat?
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>>6283163
If you're on carpet, here's a pro tip: vacuum hose with a sock over the opening held on with a rubber band.
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>>6283164
I think it looks cool. I really like the part on the right.
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>>6283164
Might want to weather the legs and knees some, depending on where you considered the fighting taking place.
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>>6283174
Yeah. I'm going to weather it some before I do the coat. I just wanted to make sure I didn't overdo anything.

>>6283169
Thanks. I'd envisioned it getting ambushed from the suit's left and taking the brunt of it going from it's right skirt going towards the shoulder before it could get the shield in place to stop any more damage.
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>>6283165
Thanks for the advice. I found it loose inside one of the fucking bags that the runners come in in my trash can
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>>6283182
I've had this happen enough that I cut the top off of the runner bags now and shake it to see if there's anything in them.
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>>6283183
That's pretty legit. I'll have to start trying that. I had a couple pieces like that on the Jesta when I opened it. I just happened to catch them on the way out.
>>
Why do some gundams come with extra pieces? I recently bought the 1/100 Vidar, and there are several pieces that even the manual says you don't use.
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>>6283194
it's fairly common in plamos; the runners are reused in other models.
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>>6283194
Because sometimes they reuse sprues because it's more efficient that making a mould that's just the same thing but with some bits taken off.
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>>6283194
Reused runners from other models.
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>>6283194
The way pieces are organized on runners is by color. So say you have two runners that are exactly the same that are white, and you use them both for parts on the arms or legs. Other white pieces that go on, say, the back, are also on those runners, so instead of making their own runners for the back and other places, they stick them on the runners that the arms/legs use, which are both just the same runner re-moulded.
>>
>>6283164
Peel both "U026" stickers off and throw them in the trash, it will make the kit look better. Not even kidding.
>>
>>6282423
Which ones do you recommend?

>>6282595
Nothing is wrong with it, but the price puts it between the entry and middle range airbrushes. So it gets a little conflicting when you could get a nicer Iwata or the Evolution for a bit more, or the HP-CS for a little less
>>
>>6283163
I use the bottom of the box to keep all the parts in, and when I cut small pieces out I hold the piece on the final cut so it can't fly away
I also build on my bed so if I drop something it isn't going anywhere
>>
>>6283204
Better?
Weathered some more on the joints, thrusters, hands, etc. Tried to not over do it.
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Anyone have experience with these?

Recently moved on to airbrush and I've been having a blast. Looking for a way to top coat by similar means.
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I'm retarded. >>6283233
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>>6283236
This one will probably be sideways too, but I'm going to bed and don't feel like rotating it
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>>6283236
>>6283237
Good shit.

Now, if you could mask the "bare metal damage" bits before you topcoat so they stay shiny that would add to the realism.
>>
I think I just sanded off part of my finger. Is that something I can fix with putty or what?
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>>6283235
Since those are acrylic, you could always just use future for gloss coats since it'd be a lot cheaper.

>>6283244
You need stem cell putty for that shit
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>>6283240
Gracias. I'm glad to be done with it now. I'll just line them with tape before I coat anything.
>>
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>>6283249
Uno mas
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>>6283244
It'll grow back, in the future don't use a belt sander
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>>6283235
Vallejo matte varnish is my current matte of choice because I have yet to have frosting problems with it and it has a flatter finish than Testors dullcote.
>>
>>6283248
Does Future need thinning before use?

>>6283259
Trying to move on from Testors Dullcoat myseslf. Do you just use water to thin since these are Vallejo acrylic?
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>>6283264
No, future can be used out of the bottle
>>
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Are you guys ready for kancolle?
>>
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hmm

have to buy 6 of these tho
>>
How do you guys go about displaying your gunpla? Shelving on the wall? Desk? Interested in inspiration.
>>
>>6283296
>Only six
>>
>>6283309
I had them on the space to the left of my keyboard on the desk, but I have too many gunpla now. I put them on a shelf, but it doesn't look good. I'm thinking of getting a small bookcase just for gunpla and other figures I have. These thing really need their own little box space to look their best.
>>
>>6283289
But we don't even have any boat--
>Greifen is aquatic
Oh geeze.
>>
>>6283143
Sanding is boring but it's absolutely vital unless you want to get lazy and just do some work with a hobby knife which still takes time. Just play some music or watch something you don't need subs for in the background and you'll be fine though. Really you might as well learn to cope as if you ever move in to seam welding or fixing gouges that's MORE sanding.
>>
>>6283407
>sanding is boring

speak for yourself faggot (unless its in narrow crevices or delicate locations)
>>
I've always bought my Gunpla from HLJ/Amiami. But lately I've been noticing something--when kits finally hit Amazon Prime, they are often the same price or even CHEAPER than I pay after shipping. Basically, for non-exclusive Bandai Gundam kits, is there any danger of just waiting for Amazon? Is there any chance I could miss out on a kit entirely?

I'm kinda wanting to cancel my kit preorders from HLJ, but I wanna make sure it's totally safe to first.
>>
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Any tips on how to maximize a desk as a display?

Also, just bought my first set of paints to add color to the canopy for each bird.
>>
>>6283494
use the third dimension retard
>>
>>6283248

Speaking of future, does anyone know if there is a european equivalent to it?
>>
>>6283501
www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
>>
>>6283109

Some of it scrapes off but the plastic is also stained yellow. I have it soaking in soapy water now, hopefully that'll get rid of it.
>>
Thinking about getting this compressor as my first
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3CBXO/
Any words of warning? I know $70 is Harbor Freight-tier quality but I'm just looking for something that will not fuck my shit up and satisfy a casual commitment to airbrushing.
>>
>>6283644
why not spend a little more and get this instead?
https://www.amazon.com/Zeny-Airbrush-Compressor-Multipurpose-Tattoo/dp/B01M33C8MV/

having a tank is rly good
>>
>>6283494
Out of those what would you recommend?

I'm leaning towards mirage's VF-31C but I'm also thinking of getting the VF-25 or 27.

Or should I bite the bullet & by 2 of them?
>>
Is Vallejo gloss varnish adequate enough to be brushed on, prior to putting waterslides?

Just like, brush on a little coat on the area where the decal is gonna be?
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So this is Kotobukiya's target audience...

I'm going to buy a few more fags
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>>6283808
Jesus christ.

Is that for real?
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>>6283815
I see you're not up to date

https://may.2chan.net/b/src/1492447420874.webm

It is very real
>>
>>6283818
Welp, time to get into fags.
>>
>>6283768
brush? like hand brush? I do not have any personal experience so someone may disagree with me but I don't think top coats/varnishes should ever just be hand brushed on. Same with primers.
>>
>>6283845
>clearcoats
Here's the HiQparts staff guide on the eye decals that's relevant to my concern.

https://www.hiqparts.net/2016/08/23/%E3%83%87%E3%82%AB%E3%83%BC%E3%83%AB%E3%81%AE%E6%AE%B5%E5%B7%AE%E6%B6%88%E3%81%97-%E7%9E%B3%E3%83%87%E3%82%AB%E3%83%BC%E3%83%AB%E7%B7%A8/

Somethingsomething topcoats and stuff. I can't read it properly, so I don't know if they just directly applied the new decals after scrubbing out the old ones with alcohol.
>>
>>6283858
google translate the page
https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hiqparts.net%2F2016%2F08%2F23%2F%25E3%2583%2587%25E3%2582%25AB%25E3%2583%25BC%25E3%2583%25AB%25E3%2581%25AE%25E6%25AE%25B5%25E5%25B7%25AE%25E6%25B6%2588%25E3%2581%2597-%25E7%259E%25B3%25E3%2583%2587%25E3%2582%25AB%25E3%2583%25BC%25E3%2583%25AB%25E7%25B7%25A8%2F&edit-text=&act=url
I am not sure what exactly is going on precisely. Seems like this article is dealing with their own custom decals? Something about their decals makes them different then the ones used by koto?

hard to really figure it all out due to translation issues. But looks like no varnish or coat goes on first. The coat goes on in layers on the eye, first a thin layer AROUND the decal then a layer over the decal and the surrounding coat so it blends out the edge of the decal. Also the article specifies they used Matte, not gloss.
>>
>>6283449
No. Dont preorder model kits its dumb
>>
>>6283914
If I recall, that weird white stick they use in the photos is actually a kind of a silicone brush, kinda like those clay shapers for artists?
>>
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>>6283818
brb ordering another Materia
>>
Flat Mr Hobby or Tamiya top coat are sold out everywhere online, or at least I should pay 15€ to get a can.
Is there an alternative? Something that can be easily and universally found in any hobby/painting store? Also, what about the MrHobby flat grey can? Is it good? It is larger and more convenient and I have a couple stores on ebay that can sell it to me.
>>
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>I made the OP

Gelgoog senpai noticed me.

Also, put side by side these two complete each other. Wish I'd done some more work on the Grimgerde when I see it next to Barbie.
>>
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Just got back after a month in Tokyo
Got these kits

I wanted a mega size Zaku too, but didn't have enough space for it. I'll get it next time.
>>
>>6284163
Nice haul. How much did the Led kit run You?
>>
>>6284171
It was pretty pricey and really difficult to track down. I was in pretty much every hobby store I could find but finally managed to get it.
Cost around 9k or 10k Yen, can't remember. Pretty pricey for a some LEDs..... oh well. Just glad I found it. Still a lot cheaper than getting it here in Europe.
The PG Unicorn itself was a lot cheaper than here too.
>>
>>6284184
I don't doubt it. Be sure to post it whenever you get the unicorn done and lit up.
>>
>>6284191
Will do
I'll probably build the Nu Gundam first though. Pretty excited to get it.

I also love the Origin Guncannons. They're some of my favourit Gundam designs. I'm just so sad they only make them in 1/144..... I normally don't get 1/144 kits because I think they're too small... but these Guncannon designs looked too cool not to get.

The RG RX78 is a gift for my best friend. Again not a fan of 1/144 kits, but I was running out of luggage space hehe (I also bought a guitar out there) so he'll have to do with a small one
>>
>>6284200
Again, good haul. What guitar did you get?
>>
>>6284242
I wanted a Fender Japan Souichirou Yamauchi Strat, but all the preorders were sold out.
I already have two Strats, so I bought a Pink Paisley Tele instead (my first Tele)
It looks pretty fucking rad, plays good and sounds good too. It was also a bit cheaper than the Strat (Tele was 90k Yen)
>>
>>6284245
Nice man. Teles are my favorite fenders. I've sold everything but my Gibson explorer, but i wajferes into a music shop for the first time in a million years the other day and almost bought a Tele on impulse.
>>
>>6284082

Did you handbrush the pipes on the barbatos frame or are they separate pieces?
>>
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>>6284327
Not him, but on my Barbados and Vidar, a lot of the pipes are part of the legs, arms, chest, etc. Some of them are separate though. I painted mine with some Sharpie markers, and they held up fine.
>>
They really should've included a stand with the RG Build Strike. You can't really see it in the picture, but I have to hunch the body forward so it doesn't fall over from the fuckhueg backpack
>>
>>6284338
No idea why all of my pictures become australian
>>
>>6282358
You using that as a bazooka for a custom? Which kit? How will you even get a kit to hold that?
>>
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How's this DPM look?
>>
>>6284411
Sick.
Is that for a GM sniper?
>>
>>6284411
Also, what'd you use for a stencil?
>>
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>>6284418
It is! And I used photoshop and the internet to make a vector of the shield, then found a DPM pattern to actually make the stencils
>>
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>>6284437
I printed out the stencils, laid the paper on top of some painter's tape, and started cutting.
>>
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>>6284439
For paint colours, I used Black Paint + Primer, Leather Boots, Italian Olive, and Brown Boots, all Krylon Satin
>>
>>6284444
That looks great dude. I can appreciate the work that goes into doing a good camo scheme. I've painted my own guns before, and getting it to ride that line between aesthetic and functional can be hard.
>>
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>>6284472
Thank you so much! The only gun-painting I've done was on this airsoft P99, I gave it a two-tone scheme similar to Metal Gear Rex
>>
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First blood sacrifice
>>
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Finally tried out tamiya flat base for a matte/dull/satin whatever the fuck you'd want to call this. The Jesta has been a weird kit for me. Being colorblind I still quite see if it looks alright or not. Just going by what others tell me. So I decided to try out the flat base as well. It's not bad overall and a bit forgiving if you add in too much. (Just add some more normall clear and give a second coat to take away any fogging.) I'll probably try to use it again on another kit (the ifreet) when I get around to painting it.
I'll also take some good photos of this and the hi nu with my dslr this weekend. But for now here is my last wip shot.
>>
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And here is a better shot.
>>
does plastic cement work on putty to plastic? i dont have any hobby super glue on me.
>>
>>6284609
just figure it out yourself by testing it on a spare runner
>>
>>6284609
no
>>
>>6284565
stop spamming, this is not your personal blog
>>
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>>6284565
As the only other MG Jesta poster in the Thread, this looks really Good!
>>
>>6284652
Different guy, sperglord. As slow as these threads are already, don't get mad when people are at least contributing.
>>
>>6284652
Stop posting. This is not your personal blog.
>>
>>6284661
Stop not posting, this is your personal blog.
>>
>>6284664
Spamming Blog. This isn't your personal stop posting.
>>
Is there somewhere I can buy a spare runner of the super-articulated MG hands? Someone decided to skydive.
>>
>>6284784
No, but you can get 3rd party. I got these zeon ones, pretty happy so far.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008B635N4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vDz9ybV566YPD
>>
>>6283249
is there a different shield that this kit would be able to use? the worst thing about the jesta is that shoulder shield which is unsatisfying to me.
>>
What grit range should I have for nub removal and cleanup?

I was thinking of doing P800-1000, 1000-1200 and 1200-1500.

Would that be sufficient?
>>
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This is the kit that will make me get back into buying plastic crap
>>
>>6284923
Why does everyone only do the kneeling pose? I never see a laying down sniping pose.
>>
>>6284937
i have seen laying down poses before. this looks like a show piece though, so they probably wanted it in a more conventional pose or something.
>>
>>6284939
ah, makes sense.
>>
It might have been really obvious before, but this guy really doesnt use the architect frame at all, does it?
>>
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>>6284994
How did I not add the image
>>
>>6285003
What model is this?
>>
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>>6285014
byakko, it says right there on the namecard

Heres that hexagear cyberpunk lady
>>
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>>6284994
>>6285003
A much older Greifen doesn't use most of the architect frame either (at least it doesn't use most of its parts where they are supposed to be used). This is probably something similar.

Architect frame 2.0 with those round joints would be awesome but probably not happening.
>>
>>6285042
>Koto made cute mini bases specifically for hexagears
>>
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>>6285046
That was exactly my thought when I saw the base, but remembered they were tiny as fuck

Heres a hexagear parts remover
>>
>>6285048
>screwing in plastic
>line needs a special tool to assemble/reconfigure
Not sure if good idea
>>
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>>6285056
I'm all on board except the screw part

At least its cool, we need more non-gundam scifi kits
>>
>>6285042
That is cute. I wouldn't mind mini bases for some of my other kits too; Flying Bases are nice and all but they take a lot of desk space to provide support at angles or in poses I'm not using.
>>
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>>6285063
>more non-gundam scifi kits
There is already more than one can build in a lifetime.

I'd rather Koto stayed focused on fags and fag accessories than developed a 1/24 line that is not in scale with anything.
>>
>>6285078
But hexagears are fag accessories
>>
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>>6285078
>implying you don't want dino or wolf armor for your FAG

Now just imagine the possibilities when that squid looking Hexa releases.
>>
>>6285251
going on the materias no doubt
>>
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Gonna dump six pics of the AE Zeta.
>https://pbs.twimg.com/media/C9h9E_UVoAEuNcg.jpg:orig
>>
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Forgot to mention, but the Twitter links are for xbox-hueg images if you really want to zoom into these things.
>https://pbs.twimg.com/media/C9h9FxBUIAAzSA0.jpg:orig
>>
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>https://pbs.twimg.com/media/C9h9HOgVYAAOvAG.jpg:orig
>>
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>https://pbs.twimg.com/media/C9iuuD_UQAAt1dT.jpg:orig
>>
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>https://pbs.twimg.com/media/C9iuvOrU0AE2OPB.jpg:orig
>>
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>https://pbs.twimg.com/media/C9ivXqUVwAAqaan.jpg:orig

Bandai's really not giving out much information on how much partsforming this thing needs to go between MS and Waverider modes. And the thing releases pretty soon, too.

Links to tweets:
>https://twitter.com/sunriserights/status/853569828279287808
>https://twitter.com/sunriserights/status/853625133977616386
>>
>>6283509
that's unfortunate, it seems like whatever they used to color the plastic (I'm assuming pigment) didn't mix properly before it was used
>>
>>6284323
It's my first Tele after playing guitar seriously for 13 years. Also my first guitar without a rosewood freboard hehe. I have some pretty flashy guitars like a White Falcon and some other stuff, but this Pink Paisley with a full maple neck sticks out a lot haha.
I used to hate Teles when I started because it was a douchy indie music guitar in my head hehe.... I only liked Strats and SG's back then.... now I want one of each guitar ever made haha

Sounds great though, nice and crunchy bridge pickup and a different flavour of neck pickup single coil tone compared to my Strats.

I want an Explorer one day too! I need a solid body guitar with humbuckers at some point.
>>
>>6285281
>>6285282
>>6285286
i dare to bet this is just the old HG with newer joints system
>>
>>6285277
Tomcat colors Zeta?
sounds nice
>>
>>6285319
Wrong
The vents on the legs aren't color seperated on the old HG
>>
>>6284327
The pipes on the back of the arms and the pipes on the upper thigh are separate IIRC.

The rest are not, so they had to be handpainted.
>>
How soft are the tips of the flat-end gundam markers? Can they be used to panel line? I am trying to panel line white here, and it seems that the only white gundam markers available are the flat-end ones.
>>
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I know kotobukiya rarely reprints their kits,but when they do is it announced like bandais monthly reprint list I see around here? or am I forever doomed to overpriced amazon listings and being unable to satisfy my gespenst lust? or perhaps some kind person has some form of gespenst they are willing to part with?
>>
>>6285666
I am assuming you never used a gundam marker before aside from the liners. They are not the same, not even what is inside them. Gundam lining pens use more of an ink then actual paint, while the gundam markers put out actual paint. You can even hand brush with the paint that comes out of a gundam marker.

So no, they will not be any better for panel lining then thinning any other paint to use with panel line wash technique. Not to mention I do not even know how easy gundam marker paint is to thin down in the first place.

I mean I guess you could just rub the marker across your panel lines and letting that paint ooze into the lines then cleaning up the surface so just the line is left painted. But that is an incredible waste of paint.
>>
>half way through building PG unicorn.
>Need parts from two identical runners.
>There is only one of them.

Kill me.
>>
>>6285666
Just look at using white acrylic instead.
>>
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Press F
>>
Anyone have any experience building BTModel Zoids? The original kit I want costs wayyyy too much now and there's no sign of a reissue on the horizon.
>>
>>6285944
>pulls this and won't ship to canada anymore
no F
>>
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Just finished this.
This is my second kit and I have to say that I love it. My first was an HG and it always feels like is falling to pieces when you try to pose it. Lupus seems pretty solid instead, like the plastic is another quality at least in terms of factory.
The only complain, as you can see from the picture, are the upper pieces on the leg, they're a bit loose and seem to not fit properly. This was a problem I had with the HG too so I guess it is a factory mistake (?). I was very careful about nubs and the part I mentioned didn't have any piece to be sanded for the parts that stick together.
My only issue are still the nubs on the black or darker parts. I nipped a bit further from the piece and I used a hobby knife to cut the plastic in excess and went for sanding with different layers of grips, but still there are some clearer parts so tips are welcome.
I'll go for panel lines tomorrow because I'm a bit tired now. I purchased the GM01 cause I read online that there's not a huge difference between grey and black and also I like to give a more anime-ish look to models.
>>
>>6285944
PANIC! I don't reallymeven need anything but it pays to scope out clearance sales.

Wait, shit, where do I get my Super Clear from now?
>>
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>>6285960
I'm with you fellow Canadabro
>>
>>6285944
Financial crysis? Or it is just this hobby?
Seriously, I'm not American.
>>
>>6285944
Fuck, well, RIP Hobbywave. Never bought kits from there, but they had supplies for the best value I could find and to discover some new ones. Do they still have the flat $12 shipping?
>>
My dad gave me a bag full of these Tamiya-brand spray paints that I've never seen before and said I can use them on my shit. They aren't for an airbrush, they're literally like any normal can of spray paint. Besides apply a primer, is there anything I have to do before I use these, or can I just go ham
>>
>>6286056
As long as they don't say "Polycarbonate" on the front you should be good. Those polycarbonate ones are intended for RC car bodies, not modeling plastics.
>>
>>6286056
>They aren't for an airbrush
You CAN decant spray paints and use them in an airbrush, as long as you aren't an idiot about it and still thin it properly.
>>
>>6285944
>>6285960
>>6285970
>>6285971
>stop shipping to Leafland
>go out of business
wew

Although maybe competition was a factor? Amazon gets most new releases and Gundam Planet has a similar selection of kits plus Web Exclusives(even with the markups) and supplies.

They used to be my favorite for the supplies and shipping times. Their US warehouse was only a few hours north of me. F
>>
I'm new to Gunpla (just built my 4th). I started because my arthritis prevents me from painting my GeeDubs up to my usual quality.

I did the stickers. Not satisfied. Bought some Gundam Markers, but those achieved the impossible of being both too thick and runny.

I don't want to do the full painting thing because of above.

Can you paint straight to the plastic without priming? Does anyone know of a color match chart from the major paint makers to. Gundam's official colors?
>>
>>6286241
They do sell spray primer and tamiya spraycans, which would save a lot of time at the expense of not being as detailed.
>>
>>6286241
Mech9 does color guide translations. Also, you may want to consider an airbrush and 1/100 scale in general. Larger pieces that are easier to paint.
>>
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>>6286296
Asking you because you seem to be on the up and up.

So the only top coat available locally is testors matte and gloss stuff. Should i just ordef a few cans of tamiya or mr hobby? Is there a discernable difference?

Also, gonna practice some painting on my grazes and hopefully get enough skill to paint my GM sniper 2.
>>
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>>6286303
IMO Tamiya, Mr Hobby, and Alcald are all better than Testors, but Testors is very much a step up from Krylon and far from awful. I've used Testors in the past and had decent results. IIRC I did this with it.
>>
First time ever stripping paint, sure hope my shit don't melt. How long should I leave it in?
>>
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>>6286322
That's somewhat comforting. I've used it on my other kits, but i was actually kinda proud of this one, so i wanted to use something better if it was worth it. I feel like it took me spraying it too thick on my Barbados and Vidar before i got the hang of it, though.

Thanks hombre. Is that the HGUC? I really want the MG Jesta Cannon, but i don't want to drop $100 on it. I'm tempted to get the powered GM instead.
>>
>>6286362
After posting this, I realize how shit the stickers on Barbados look. I need to bite the bullet and get into painting.
>>
>>6286362
Yep. I've got the MG sitting around waiting to be built as well.
>>
>>6286372
Sick. It's a good looking kit, and from what I hear, comes with pretty much everything to make a regular Jesta also. Including a shield that can't attach to the cannon backpack.
>>
I'm currently poised to shamelessly pick the flesh from the bones of Hobbywave's yet-living corpse. I'm thinking of snagging a nice Wing or Strike, maybe ending my scale autism and grabbing a 1/100 or stepping up to an MG but there are a lot of these fuckers and not a ton of identifying information. Are you guys aware of any outstanding options or kits I really need to avoid?
>>
>>6286449
Yet living corpse? They seem to be doing alright, they still get in the latest kits as they release and their tools are better stocked than most other sites.
>>
>>6286469
Anon

scroll up
>>
>>6286469
Mate. >>6285944
>>
>>6286472
>>6286473
What the actual fuck...
>>
>>6285944
good riddance
never bought from them anyway...until now :^)
>>
>>6286472
>>6286473
Why is this allowed when garbage like Gundamplanet and gginfinite still survive?
>>
>>6286483
Hey! I like Gundam Planet for supplies.
>>
>>6286483
Exactly because gundamplanet and gginfinite charge more
>>
>>6286486
>supplies
>they don't even carry Mr Color pigments
>>
>>6286493
Volks for that.
>>
>>6286495
Where do you see the CR pigments on volks?
>>
>>6286500
http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=732

Unless I'm retarded and you're referring to a different line.
>>
>>6286503
Those are just paints, the CR pigments are the pigments you're supposed to use to color Mr. Color paints instead of just mixing paints because you end up diluting the primary color pigments.
>>
>>6286511
Interesting, I don't think I've seen those before. I typically don't mix anything other than Vallejo though.
>>
>>6286515
Hobbywave carries them, but under weathering pastels like a bunch of retards!

http://hobbywave.com/modeling_supplies/weathering-pastels
>>
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>>6286511
>muh primary color pigments
Literally all color guides give you the mixtures of paints, not pigments.

Unless you are trying to recreate a specific CMYK color from a printed art or something, there is really not a lot of use for CR line. Very niche shit.
>>
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While we are on the subject of paints, does anyone know where pic related is sold and actually ships to NA?

>not rakuten
>>
>>6286540
They're pigments the basic paints actually use but mixed in with black or white as well. In other words the various blue paints are just a mixture of CMY along with white or black in a binder. The color guides tell you to mix paints because it's easy but you still lose on primary color saturation because the proportion of B/W increases disproportionately (of course this depends on the particular paints you mix). If you want to maintain the vibrancy of your colors you'd use the pigments instead of mixing paints.

This is just how paints work. You can't just keep mixing paints together. It's why artist paints have a metric shitton of different colors, many of which feature unique pigments. If you're fine with just the recommend colors that's fine but if you want to have a wider palette CRs are for you.
>>
>>6282416
Actually yeah it looks okay. Definitely grab yourself some thin hobby masking tape.

>>6282579
Kinda can't, they're for Hobbylink's contest. Give me another couple of weeks, ooh I want to show off all this chrome!

>>6282730
>>6282757
Just rub the heck out of them, smush that adhesive against the plastic as much as you can, you'd be surprised how much better they can look.

>>6284163
What is with that vintage-boxed black Pettit'gguy?
>>
>>6286656
Black Tri-Stars
http://einherjar.info/article/176305756.html
>>
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>>6286303
I disagree with Gelgoog. Maybe I'm just picky, but I think Testors looks kind of terrible. It's not as bad as Krylon, sure, but it's not a very flat matte and still leaves quite a bit of visible "shine." I've also noted a sort of faint gritty look when looking at my Testors-coated kits up close.

I'm a strictly Mr. Hobby/Tamiya guy now. Those two always give incredibly smooth and very flat results with very minimal reflectivity. I think the difference is quite apparent side by side. I would take a comparison photo for you to show you, but my Testors coated kits are in storage literally thousands of miles away.

See the velvety-smooth coat on this Gouf? You will never get that with Testors. Testors is def cheaper and easier to source in the US, but well, you get what you pay for.
>>
>>6285944
Anyone found any really great/notable deals at the Hobbywave closing sale? Most of the "discounts" I'm seeing I can get cheaper or the same price from Amazon or HLJ PW once shipping is figured in.
>>
>>6286719
They have flat rate shipping that's pretty fast, Fedex ground IIRC, not that smartpost or w/e.
>>
>>6286712
>>6286322
Krylon isn't a bad clear coat.
It's just that most people don't know how to apply spray paint and the low pressure from hobby sprays is more forgiving from people just spraying nonstop in circles.
>>
>>6286719
UCHG 1/35 Core Fighter for $35.95. MSRP for that thing is 4500 yen, and with $12 flat rate shipping you barely pay over that.

Hildorf for $53.95, vs MSRP of 6800 yen.

Maybe toss in a Petit'guy into an already existing order.
>>
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>>6286712
>velvety-smooth coat
>that shiny streak on the skirt and the hip
Shiny/flat is the result of your spraying technique not so much the coat's fault. Not defending Testors, just saying you can fuck up the application of any brand.

Gritty/smooth on the other hand is determined 50/50 by the spraying conditions and the coat's quality. You can't get smooth if your coat has large particles in it but you sure can get gritty with ANY coat if your pressure/distance/humidity is wrong.
>>
>>6286779
I know the pic wasn't perfect (heck, in other shots from that shoot you can see that he fucked up pretty bad on the arm actually), but most of it demonstrates the smoothness I was talking about.

And yes, it is true you can fuck up with any topcoat if your technique or conditions are bad, but I made that post on the basis of my experiences with both sprays over the course of 15+ years of model building. Testors has simply never given me very nice results, even under ideal conditions and with proper spray technique.
>>
Anyone know a good source for the Mr color paints (lacquer) in Europe? Checked all my domestic sites and they only had their acrylic paints.
>>
>>6286837

you can try this one, they ship from Poland:

http://www.super-hobby.co.uk/
>>
>>6286848

Thanks for the link but it seems like they only have like six colours that are from the lacquer line
>>
>>6286303
You mentioned gundam markers, if you are still using them at all, the actual markers mind you not the liners, then beware it clashes with a lot of top coats. I want to say the Mr. line does not to my knowledge. pretty sure Tamiya definitely does.
>>
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Panel line done. I love this kit!
>>
>>6285944

Shit! Now where am I supposed to get my fucking paints?

F
>>
>military models in 1/100 or 1/144 scale are either super rare or ww2

So what to use for dioramas?
>>
>>6286966
Use 1/60 and 1/72 scales
>>
>>6286948
You may have me confused with another anon. I've never used gundam markers. I've got some spray paint I'm going to try out. I may just say fuck it and get an airbrush if I'm not happy with how it comes out.
>>
>DM Testament Gundam
aw shit son
>>
>>6286989
>seed shit
>>
>>6286989
I don't remember this one. From Astray manga I presume?
>>
>>6287030
yes
>>
>>6286989
>Chink knock offs keeping the 1/100 scale alive
I wish their Deathscythe Hell was just the TV version and no a gay fantasy-looking one.
>>
>>6287037
Goddamn, I was so mad.
20 years of nothing but 2 HGs whereas the Batman ripoff gets all the cool shit, and I hear the TV version is finally getting a MG.
And then I saw it.
>>
>>6286983
thought you were the anon he was replying to, my bad.
>>
>>6285286
Of course they won't give any info about the transformation because it is a freaking partsformer. We all know that.
>>
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So I've got all these MG seeds (most without decals on).

Do you guys ever skip panel lining and just top coat? I feel like adding too much detail is gonna take away from the "anime accurate" look they currently have.

Or does it just look to unfinished? Was gonna Matt top coat. Am I gonna miss the slight shine?
>>
>>6287074
Holy shit phone you couldn't even post it side ways? Thanks Apple.
>>
>>6287037
DM doesn't have a deathscythe hell
>>
>>6287083
says you
>>
>>6287074

I just feel like it looks unfinished. If you want a middle ground, try panel lining with grey. It's gives a softer look but prevents it from looking unfinished.

And flat is love.
>>
You'd think that after all this fucking time people would learn to rotate their pictures before posting
>>6287074
How's life in Australia m8?
>>
What brands/lines of metallic paints do those of you who airbrush use?

I'm making the switch to airbrushing and I have appreciated the relative strength of the Tamiya spraycan lacquers as it seems to hold up well even on inner frames etc and I would hate to switch to something that is super fragile for those parts of the model.
>>
>>6287094
I use whatever my LHS stocks, which means mr hobby, gaia or e7

No alcad around sadly
>>
>>6287097

>mr hobby

Do you mean their acrylics or lacquers?

I can get alclads I think (no local hobby store so I have to order online anyway) but I am not sure if it's the best brand to start with.
>>
>>6287099
lacquers.
>>
>>6287107

Okay, I noticed that they seem to have a couple of different lines. Under the regular one there are some that are called things like "silver", "steel" etc (cheapest), then there is the mr metal colour (more expensive) and mr color super metallic (most expensive).

Do you know which one you use/prefer? The most expensive one is probably the best, obviously, but is it worth the price?
>>
>>6287083
You're technically right, they have two.
One is a straight bootleg of the Bandai EW kit. The other is this monstrosity, which could have been a cool TV version with Katoki proportions but instead it looks like it was designed by a 14 year old edgy chinaman.
>>
>>6287153
It has some cool features. Dual boosters and refridgeration vents in between the ribs.

I could've almost tolerated this if they had kept the coolest TV feature, the Stahlhelm with all the white engravings on the borders.
But no, replaced it with EW Batman abomination's head and felt the need to add EW's red claws into the Hyper Jammer.
>>
>>6287120
i havent sprayed them enough, but theres some info about them if you google. I have the mr metal color chome silver and desu its a little disappointing. the aluminium looks nice though
>>
Guys help I have a sudden urge to purchase several Materias and paint them and dress them up cute and stuff
>>
>>6287183

Just do it, you degenerate!

And post pics.
>>
>>6287180

Read up a bit on it myself and appearantly you have to polish them to make it shiny? Feels like there could be some spots on pieces that might be hard to reach in order to polish it.
>>
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>>6287183
follow your dreams

>>6287190
if you want a nice shiny finish youre gonna have to buff anyway. tweezers and microfiber might do it
>>
Please stop lewding the anime
>>
>>6287203
That's not for us to decide
>>
>>6287200

Well, I went ahead and ordered some of the kind you have to polish (ironically, from a Polish site), if I don't like it I can just not buy more of it.
>>
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>>6287203
far too late for that
>>
>>6287093
G'day

It's rough, but I got some shrimp on the barby so it's gonna be alright
>>
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FUUUCK
this is the most sticker heavy kit I've ever come across
definitely going to give this one a good paint
>>
New to gunpla here, what's the best HG ??
>>
>>6287332
RX-78-2 Revive, cheap as chips, twice as nice.
>>
>>6287336
Got that as my first :^) also bought the guncannon one, anythin to recommend besides those?
>>
>>6287343
There's no "best" HG, do you mean just in terms of out of box quality?
You already got two revive kits, so those are probably your best bet. Might as well get an original guntank to complete the trio, though the technology is a lot older.
Then get some revive zeon mechs, like a zaku II or a gouf.

The build fighters line is also pretty great if you're into customizations of other mechs, but I personally stay away from those since I customize my own stuff. It feels weird since they're model kits in the show as well.
>>
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>>6287343
I have a personal boner for the Zudah, and entire HG Origin line is great if you want some Zakus and stuff.
The AGE stuff is nice too.
>>
is the 7 11 Zaku rare?
>>
What would happen if you put a fully painted gundam into the freezer? Will it freeze the paint in and harden it, making it tougher? Just a random thought.
>>
>>6287364
what are you smoking anon
>>
>>6287370
Dude, what if we hotboxed our kits?
>>
>>6287364
Anon, get a respirator, I think the paint fumes are affecting you.

but on a serious related note, I am slightly curious if there are other temp related tricks for toys/models similar to using hot water to loosen joints.
>>
>>6287381
Use boiling water to bend and deform styrene sheets for scratchbuilding.
>>
>>6287315
that's a real bummer, all the IBO stuff I've gotten so far has been pretty light on the stickers, what a weird choice
>>
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>>6287315
>he wields a big pair of scissors
Just when I thought this couldn't get any stupider.

I'll clean him up tomorrow, this is really cracking me up.

>>6287495
The white part on the scissor is actually a black part with a sticker covering the entirety of it.
I think they ran out of space on the white tree so chose stickers as the solution.
>>
>>6287120
From my experience, the main difference between the regular colors and Mr. Color Super Metallic is that the metallic flakes are smaller in the latter, making for a shinier result. MCSM is pretty comparable to Alclad in terms of quality, although I've personally had better luck with Alclad. Mr. Metal Color is weird in that the finish is relatively dull at first, but can then be polished to a shinier result. Considering the effort and the higher price tag, I'd just spend a little more and go with the Alclad.
>>
>>6287502
huh looks like they did the same thing on the shoulders, ran into the same kind of weird almost lazy seeming lack of parts separation on the Vidar
>>
>>6286719
Most of the Mr. Hobby paints and supplies are half-off. Shipping is $12 flat, so that doesn't mean much if you're only getting a few bottles, but if you want to stock up, this would be a great opportunity to do so.
>>
>>6287502
Didn't watch the show huh

They're used in the best possible way at the finale.
>>
>>6287510

I already placed an order on a few of the mr metal color paints but I'll probably try out alclad as well. I heard that they are a complete bitch to get the surface prepared for though.

I guess that applies to all metallic/glossy paints, but it seems to be extra difficult when using alclad.
>>
I tried to use chalk pastels on the bare white plastic. Now there is a yellow shade left that does not come off with water. Any suggestion on what to use? No top coat or paint, it is just on bare plastic.
>>
>>6287628

Sand it?
>>
>>6287502
They are not really scissors, closer to shears but even then they don't really 'cut' in the show. Instead they crush, slowly and inevitably crushing the arms and torso together of it's victim till the pilot inside is chunky salsa. Like getting caught in a massive hydraulic press.

they look stupid at first but when you think about it and see what they do in the show, you realize the thing is god damn gruesome.
>>
>>6287664
They're pliers
>>
>>6287640
You mean with lucid-maker grit type?
>>
>>6287675
They're nippers
>>
>>6287690
Clearly inferior ones since they couldn't even cut through a graze and need to crush it in half.
>>
>>6287696
Makes sense that a bunch of murder orphans would resort to Xurons.
>>
>>6287690
Nippers are a type of diagonal plier aka side cutter. But that's the wrong type since diagonal pliers are made to sheer a material. The Gusion Rebake Full City's pliers are meant to grip and crush things and are literally lineman's pliers by design.
>>
>>6287704
I was making a dumb gunpla joke i apologize
>>
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>>6285699
I feel you there, I don't feel like dropping like 100 bucks on the kit even though it's really nice.
>>
I just can't get the hang of sanding down these nubs. It feels smooth but there's still an off colour little dot where the nub used to be. Do I need something higher grit?
>>
>>6287742
Oh, well it's not entirely off since lineman's pliers usually have a cutting section in the center for cutting wires. The Gusion Rebake FC's pliers also have a thin section that resembles the cutting section of lineman's pliers, but there's no blade, it's just thinner than the front.

It's not such a strange weapon considering Barbatos form 6 had some sort of giant wood cutting tool.
>>
>>6287778
>kotobukiya kits
>nice

If you've never experienced it you're in for a bad time, especially with these older ones. Hell, even kits as recently as the Metal Gear Sahalenthropous or w/e had issues because they didn't design the joints strong enough to carry the mass of the kit, unlike Bandai PG kits.

I know you like them but I'd personally avoid Koto's older kits. I had several ACs that had polycaps tearing left and right over time because the ones in the legs apparently weren't made to stand up to the weight on their own.
>>
How was the 1/100 Schwalbe? Any good?
>>
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>>6287946
It was my first kit. Had I been more experienced, I would've respected it more. Its a decent little kit and grdat for kitbashibg/painting if thats your thing.
>>
>>6287847
Yeah I get that the quality is not the best but I just like the mecha. That's why I wouldn't spend the money though, it's overpriced for the kit
>>
>>6287974
I got the 1/144 and didn't really like it because the detail and articulation were too low. The 1/100 looks better in every regard but I was shopping the HW death sale and it's only $.50 less than Amazon so I grabbed HG Strike Freedom and Double Bro Raiser instead.
>>
>>6287502
Here's hoping they make an fM kit.
>>
>>6288111
Jesus christ what the fuck
>>
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Fuck, got the year wrong. Not meant to knock partsforming, especially because I don't think Bandai'll ever make a 1/144 fully-accurate-transforming Zeta that wouldn't explode after half a dozen transformations.
>>
>>6288107
I really fucking hope so but I'm not really holding out too much hope.

>>6288120
Man, just looking at this is giving me a headache. I've never built a Zeta, didn't realize the partsforming was so extensive. Seems like I'll either never transform mine, or maybe I'll even get two so I can display both modes and never have to fuck with this shit.
>>
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If I bought the BD kits, would they assemble my backlog for me?
>>
I am looking to get some quality Zaku figures. Build up a team of Zaku. I'm not opposed to MG but I really want some semblance of scale. I have currently the RG Zaku II (which I love) and RG Red Astray. Will I be disappointed if I go to get other HG figures or are there some gems out there? I've not got time to paint atm in my life so suggestions that look ace out of the box would be nice.

What are your favorite Zaku kits?
>>
>>6288208
Zaku II F2, the efsf version is pretty cool because it's offwhite but the green is also good, same thing but green
>>
>>6288208
Origin Zakus are pretty neat. They've got inner-frames in the arms and legs, their articulation is top-notch, and they're dang sturdy.
>>
>>6288140
If you think the partsforming is complicated, stay away from the RG or MG manuals with their multi-page transformation descriptions.

Partsforming is a fucking godsend.
>>
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>>6285042
Apparently Megami Device wasn't enough for Koto, they want that model ass in all of their lines.
>>
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>>6288401
its pretty fat
>>
How are Revell enamel paints for gunpla? Do they come out well?
>>
>>6288406
>there will be a generation of kids getting these just as they start puberty
>>
>>6287628
I tried sanding with the lightest grit I have but seems to not work.
The shade is poorly visibile, it needs an accurate inspection. Do you think is worth topcoating? Maybe the flat surface can hide the sgades better.
Also convince me to topcoat because I'm afraid I will regret some pabel lines and even at distance of months I can go mad about touch ups.
>>
>>6288107
Damn it, the rebake is cool. I just don't want to get the Gusion to go with it. I'd buy a 1/100 full city in a heartbeat.
>>
>>6288082
Equally sound decisions. I'm going to try to recycle some of my schwalbe into a kitbash between a Graze custom, the schwalbe, and some of the extra parts that come with the 6th form Barbados.
>>
New thread: >>6288499
>>
>>6288208
Get Char's the Origin Zaku II. I wish that they'd make an MG of it. As much as I like the 2.0, the Origin looks so awesome. I'd also hope they find a better solution for the "beads" on the power couplings on the legs head and torso. My fingers were destroyed after those. I have a regular Zaku in my backlog that keeps getting pushed to the end because I want to spare my fingers.
Thread posts: 326
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